transitions are the bane of my existence. I understand the concept. Where I falter is making a suitable gap, especially when butting up against another floor, and finding shim material to raise the height of the strip. I can't find anybody that sells transition shims.
Kelli, hold the camera still, girl!! You are making me dizzy!! Lol!! Love Zenon's videos!! I am using this transition today for the first time as well!! Z, you are lucky to have your helper here!! 😊
Thank you so much, Carol. You have been a support for the channel for a while, and we really appreciate it. Hopefully, we'll be back at it again soon. We took a little break. Btw don't know if you know this or not but we have another channel called "rent this flip that" If you like diy projects, there is way more things Kellie and I get into over there. Again, thank you for the sub. Good luck with all your projects, and we'll see ya on the next one
This is the flooring that I am going to attempt to install in my laundry room but hesitant because I didn’t know how or where to get a transition for this flooring since I have carpet… thank you I needed this video
Very helpful video and channel. I just installed this type of 4 in 1 transition product in my house and ran into a couple of problems that were not addressed in the video. Not sure if my solutions are right, but they seemed to work for my install. #1: My transition was going from existing tile down to the new LVT. I left enough space between the materials for the reducer, but quickly realized the included shims did not give enough height to reach up to the tile. My solution was to nail down a few thin strips of scrap LVT as shims to fill in the gap that was intended for the reducer. This gave me the height I needed for the transition and I was able to just install the transition piece right on top. #2: The transition strip was installed between the door jambs and there was plenty of space under the jambs to fit the transition strip and not show any gaps. The problem was there was no easy way to install the transition strip into the gray groove track underneath the door jambs. My solution was to actually fully assemble the transition with the gray groove track first and dry fit it into place. Once I figured out the best way to slide it into place under the door jambs I then glued the fully assembled transition on top of the shims and worked it exactly into place. I then taped the transition down and for insurance I placed some heavy objects on top of it and let the glue dry for 48hrs. After the 48hrs. everything seemed solid and in place and I was a happy camper. Hope this helps another struggling DIYer, thanks.
My man it seams like you got it figured out. If you look at my transition Playlist you'll see I've got almost every situation for transition install. I personally have used both methods you described. Especially on concrete. Good job figuring it out and thanks for sharing these tips with other. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR After I posted that comment I actually did watch some of your other transition videos and I noticed that you used the same exact shim method on a different install. I guess I figured that one out the old fashioned way lol. If you are looking for new video ideas I'm currently working on another issue that I'm sure a lot of people run into. That is installing vinyl planks (lifeproof) in the reverse direction. I've scoured the web looking for tips on that and have found very little info on the subject. So far it is coming together, but it is a much slower process that requires a lot more finesse. I'm sure you have run into this before and have some great tips/tricks! Thanks again for the great videos. They are helping my DIY projects run a lot smoother!
Thank you. I got a couple more after that plus a couple of tom and Jerry's. Try to embarrass my kids but they don't care. Lol. Got em at t.j. Maxx btw. Thanks for the comment
Those companies should make a better high on those transition to be easier to install this way you doing it’s hard I’ll being there I’ll figure a easy way I’ll might start my UA-cam blog to teach 😂
Right on. Yeah, that was my 1st time using those, and I learned from mistakes, successes, and failures, so I do it a little different now. Good luck on your youtube channel. It's a lot of work besides the actual work. But if I can do it, anyone can. Hey, thanks for the comment
I just bought that same type of kit. I'm transitioning between 2 different styles of LVP or similar height on a concrete floor. It never occurred to me trim up the shims to make the gap more narrow. One shim wasn't high enough, both shims is to high though. I'll figure something out. The shims seem to make it spongy.
The openings from my kitchen to hallway and hallway to dining room are not doorways so there's no doorjamb. I am doing different floor in the dining room so I need a transition. I can't find any video anywhere showing how to do a transition with shoe or quarter round going over it. My "doorway" which is just an opening not a doorway has the same baseboard trim as the rest of the walls so it should get shoe or quarter round just like everywhere else.
Yes, if there is no casing and only baseboard, then you would want to wrap your shoe or 1/4 round around it. If the floors are the same height, I usually run the shoe mold and then put the transition in between. It just looks going going against 2 straight lines. But if you are only flooring one room, then there will obviously be a height difference. For those ,I usually run the transition all the way across from baseboard to baseboard. Then, I stopped my quarter round or shoe mode with a return in front of it and then pick it back up on the higher floor with a return. Right up against the top part of the transition. there will be a little void. But honestly, I think it look better than trying to notch it and then bend it down to the lower floor. Hope that makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions
Thanks for this. It helped me with mine on my upper level where I have wood subfloors. My lower level is on a concrete slab and I have a few areas to apply these transitions. What do you recommend for concrete? I was thinking of gluing the plastic shims to the concrete floor and gluing the gray attachment strip to it using Loctite PL 3x Premium.
That is exactly what I would do. Make sure to leave a big enough space for the strip. I had to cut the floor back slightly with my oscillating tool just so the track would fit. So dry fit it before you spread the glue. You should be good to go my man. Thanks for the question
Just tried one run and the damn channels on the bottom of the t moulding split as I was lightly hammering it down. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video
@R3 Z must have missed this comment! Vinyl and laminate can both be great products. The vinyl will be water resistant/proof and depending on what laminate you choose, it may or may not be water resistant. It’s really personal preference! Find one you like and go with it. If you are looking for water resistant laminate, check out Pergo outlast! Let us know how your project goes!
I did however, install two of them last week and though confusing at first they installed great and made a very clean and tight carpet to vinyl transition. Again thanks for your video it helped me understand better
Is the skinny strip that you put on the underside necessary, or just to make the top more aesthetically pleasing with no nail holes? I just installed some (assumed all the other pieces were for uneven floors, etc.), but wedged the ends of the transition under the trim and put a few nails in through the top.
I used to do that back in the day. It can hold fine for years but generally through heavy traffic areas it can flex and the brad nails will start working loose. This can cause the nails to pull through and then eventually the transition will come loose. Not so much with wood transitions, only laminate and lvp. Best to put some silicone or small dobs of glue to help hold it down if it ever does come loose. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR it used for laminate counter tops but works great with the hammer we tend to get ahead of our selves and need to go over it a couple times,the j-roller lays it in with one even pass
Check this video out. ua-cam.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/v-deo.html. I k ow it's for laminate but same concept. If it's a reducer or end cap straight down to concrete, I clip the metal track un the bottom of the transition just to stiffen it up. Then I use hot glue and a urethane glue to hold it down. If you are having g to install a t mold ore reducer from a higher floor to lower. You'll have to glue a small strip of flooring down in your channel and then glue your transitions to that. May have to use tape and weights. It either that or the concrete bit drill holes set anchors ect... nobody wants to do that. I have and I prefer this method. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR OK so basically keep doing what I’m doing and just scrap the stupid risers. That’s just a waste in plastic since they come with them! Thanks!
You will have to glue it. Check out my channel and go to Playlist. I have a playlist for all transitions I have installed. I think you'll find d what you're looking for There
I got some t molding going from lvp to carpet. Screwed in the transition track and now trying to snap in the strip. It absolutely will not snap into place and I am using a rubber mallet to try and snap it into the track. It will not snap in and the teeth on the strip are constantly breaking to pieces. Any ideas please? I wish mine snapped in as easily as your showing it to be.
Make sure the bottom can grab the track. Try holding up at a slight angle and start about an inch away from door trim. Try to push it down then slide It to the door. Once you get one side in you should be able to get the rest of it down. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
My t moldings were installed transitioning from an LVP floor to a carpet...but the t moldings keep making a cracking/popping sound when I walk on them. What could the problem be?
Might be the transition popping In and out of the track. Try stepping on it in different ares of the transition, and you may be able to pinpoint the problem area. Have your floor guy. Just reinstall it
@@YOUFLOOR Yes, I think that’s what it is...I will mark all the areas were the popping sound is happening. Maybe my floor guy needs to raise up the t molding track slightly so that it doesn’t keep popping in and out of the track. Thank you so much for your help.
Anyone watching this do not use a multi tool that close to your hand. If that thing jumps its eating fingers to the bone. Honestly horrible idea. Atleast wear thick gloves.
transitions are the bane of my existence. I understand the concept. Where I falter is making a suitable gap, especially when butting up against another floor, and finding shim material to raise the height of the strip. I can't find anybody that sells transition shims.
I usually make them with my tablesaw. You can make them any thickness you want
Kelli, hold the camera still, girl!! You are making me dizzy!! Lol!! Love Zenon's videos!! I am using this transition today for the first time as well!! Z, you are lucky to have your helper here!! 😊
Thank you so much, Carol. You have been a support for the channel for a while, and we really appreciate it. Hopefully, we'll be back at it again soon. We took a little break. Btw don't know if you know this or not but we have another channel called "rent this flip that" If you like diy projects, there is way more things Kellie and I get into over there. Again, thank you for the sub. Good luck with all your projects, and we'll see ya on the next one
This is the flooring that I am going to attempt to install in my laundry room but hesitant because I didn’t know how or where to get a transition for this flooring since I have carpet… thank you I needed this video
You got it. Glad I could help. Good luck with your project. Thanks for the comment
Rubber mallet best for attaching threshold to strip
Yes I agree I have 4 but they were not as close as this hammer. Lol thanks for the comment
Very helpful video and channel. I just installed this type of 4 in 1 transition product in my house and ran into a couple of problems that were not addressed in the video. Not sure if my solutions are right, but they seemed to work for my install.
#1: My transition was going from existing tile down to the new LVT. I left enough space between the materials for the reducer, but quickly realized the included shims did not give enough height to reach up to the tile. My solution was to nail down a few thin strips of scrap LVT as shims to fill in the gap that was intended for the reducer. This gave me the height I needed for the transition and I was able to just install the transition piece right on top.
#2: The transition strip was installed between the door jambs and there was plenty of space under the jambs to fit the transition strip and not show any gaps. The problem was there was no easy way to install the transition strip into the gray groove track underneath the door jambs. My solution was to actually fully assemble the transition with the gray groove track first and dry fit it into place. Once I figured out the best way to slide it into place under the door jambs I then glued the fully assembled transition on top of the shims and worked it exactly into place. I then taped the transition down and for insurance I placed some heavy objects on top of it and let the glue dry for 48hrs.
After the 48hrs. everything seemed solid and in place and I was a happy camper. Hope this helps another struggling DIYer, thanks.
My man it seams like you got it figured out. If you look at my transition Playlist you'll see I've got almost every situation for transition install. I personally have used both methods you described. Especially on concrete. Good job figuring it out and thanks for sharing these tips with other. Thanks for the comment
@@YOUFLOOR After I posted that comment I actually did watch some of your other transition videos and I noticed that you used the same exact shim method on a different install. I guess I figured that one out the old fashioned way lol.
If you are looking for new video ideas I'm currently working on another issue that I'm sure a lot of people run into. That is installing vinyl planks (lifeproof) in the reverse direction. I've scoured the web looking for tips on that and have found very little info on the subject. So far it is coming together, but it is a much slower process that requires a lot more finesse. I'm sure you have run into this before and have some great tips/tricks!
Thanks again for the great videos. They are helping my DIY projects run a lot smoother!
This helped me a lot. Thank you for posting this. 👍🏼
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment.
I love that shirt 😍
Thank you meet to I have some tom and jerry too
That shirt is pretty dope.
Thank you. I got a couple more after that plus a couple of tom and Jerry's. Try to embarrass my kids but they don't care. Lol. Got em at t.j. Maxx btw. Thanks for the comment
Thanks a lot 👊🏼 by the way the Cicadas in the background are on a rampage. 😆
Editing was a nightmare. Thanks for the comment
A rubber mallet might be a good investment for you. :)
I have 3
Very helpful. Thank you!
@BleezyChuckles Glad I could help!
Those companies should make a better high on those transition to be easier to install this way you doing it’s hard I’ll being there I’ll figure a easy way I’ll might start my UA-cam blog to teach 😂
Right on. Yeah, that was my 1st time using those, and I learned from mistakes, successes, and failures, so I do it a little different now. Good luck on your youtube channel. It's a lot of work besides the actual work. But if I can do it, anyone can. Hey, thanks for the comment
I like this DUDE !!!!
You alright yourself! Thanks for the comment
Thank you
You got it
You didn't explain the shims portion and how that is cut/used
I couldn’t figure this out 🤦♂️ Thanks!
Yes was new to me but I finally got it
I just bought that same type of kit. I'm transitioning between 2 different styles of LVP or similar height on a concrete floor. It never occurred to me trim up the shims to make the gap more narrow. One shim wasn't high enough, both shims is to high though. I'll figure something out. The shims seem to make it spongy.
Thank you for sharing
No problem. Thanks for the comment
The openings from my kitchen to hallway and hallway to dining room are not doorways so there's no doorjamb. I am doing different floor in the dining room so I need a transition. I can't find any video anywhere showing how to do a transition with shoe or quarter round going over it. My "doorway" which is just an opening not a doorway has the same baseboard trim as the rest of the walls so it should get shoe or quarter round just like everywhere else.
Yes, if there is no casing and only baseboard, then you would want to wrap your shoe or 1/4 round around it. If the floors are the same height, I usually run the shoe mold and then put the transition in between. It just looks going going against 2 straight lines. But if you are only flooring one room, then there will obviously be a height difference. For those ,I usually run the transition all the way across from baseboard to baseboard. Then, I stopped my quarter round or shoe mode with a return in front of it and then pick it back up on the higher floor with a return. Right up against the top part of the transition. there will be a little void. But honestly, I think it look better than trying to notch it and then bend it down to the lower floor. Hope that makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions
Killer Smurf's shirt, my dude.
Thank you my brotha. Love the smurfs
Thanks for this. It helped me with mine on my upper level where I have wood subfloors. My lower level is on a concrete slab and I have a few areas to apply these transitions. What do you recommend for concrete? I was thinking of gluing the plastic shims to the concrete floor and gluing the gray attachment strip to it using Loctite PL 3x Premium.
That is exactly what I would do. Make sure to leave a big enough space for the strip. I had to cut the floor back slightly with my oscillating tool just so the track would fit. So dry fit it before you spread the glue. You should be good to go my man. Thanks for the question
Just tried one run and the damn channels on the bottom of the t moulding split as I was lightly hammering it down. Any suggestions? Thanks for the video
May have to run another track. Or use silicone to glue it down. Or pl 3x if it's on concrete. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
New sub👍flooring is my next project in my living room, what you recommend ? Vinyl or laminate? I like the real wood texture. Thankyou
@R3 Z must have missed this comment! Vinyl and laminate can both be great products. The vinyl will be water resistant/proof and depending on what laminate you choose, it may or may not be water resistant. It’s really personal preference! Find one you like and go with it. If you are looking for water resistant laminate, check out Pergo outlast! Let us know how your project goes!
Great video these strips are pain in the you know what
@Lee Renraw They definitely can be! Thanks for the comment!
I did however, install two of them last week and though confusing at first they installed great and made a very clean and tight carpet to vinyl transition. Again thanks for your video it helped me understand better
Right on bro thanks for the comment..glad it worked out
Is the skinny strip that you put on the underside necessary, or just to make the top more aesthetically pleasing with no nail holes? I just installed some (assumed all the other pieces were for uneven floors, etc.), but wedged the ends of the transition under the trim and put a few nails in through the top.
I used to do that back in the day. It can hold fine for years but generally through heavy traffic areas it can flex and the brad nails will start working loose. This can cause the nails to pull through and then eventually the transition will come loose. Not so much with wood transitions, only laminate and lvp. Best to put some silicone or small dobs of glue to help hold it down if it ever does come loose. Thanks for the question
I use a J roller to set it. Works great
Never heard of that. Is that whT it's for or did you just find another use for that Particular tool. Thanks for the tip
@@YOUFLOOR it used for laminate counter tops but works great with the hammer we tend to get ahead of our selves and need to go over it a couple times,the j-roller lays it in with one even pass
I will definitely check that out. Thanks again for sharing tips. That what we are here for👊
Do you have a video for the same transition 4 in 1 by simple solutions for vinyl to carpet with concrete subfloor
ua-cam.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/v-deo.html. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question
First! Love this channel! Hey did you ever figure out if you are near me Akron,Ohio? Thanks man!!
No buddy I am in Nashville
How about on a concrete subfloor? I’m an installer and these new vinyl transitions have me questioning my methods.
Check this video out. ua-cam.com/video/AL1NBfkswVo/v-deo.html. I k ow it's for laminate but same concept. If it's a reducer or end cap straight down to concrete, I clip the metal track un the bottom of the transition just to stiffen it up. Then I use hot glue and a urethane glue to hold it down. If you are having g to install a t mold ore reducer from a higher floor to lower. You'll have to glue a small strip of flooring down in your channel and then glue your transitions to that. May have to use tape and weights. It either that or the concrete bit drill holes set anchors ect... nobody wants to do that. I have and I prefer this method. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR OK so basically keep doing what I’m doing and just scrap the stupid risers. That’s just a waste in plastic since they come with them! Thanks!
What do you do if you got a concrete floor?
What tile I want side is higher than my vinyl plank?
You will have to glue it. Check out my channel and go to Playlist. I have a playlist for all transitions I have installed. I think you'll find d what you're looking for
There
@@YOUFLOOR Thank You!!!
I got some t molding going from lvp to carpet. Screwed in the transition track and now trying to snap in the strip. It absolutely will not snap into place and I am using a rubber mallet to try and snap it into the track. It will not snap in and the teeth on the strip are constantly breaking to pieces. Any ideas please? I wish mine snapped in as easily as your showing it to be.
Make sure the bottom can grab the track. Try holding up at a slight angle and start about an inch away from door trim. Try to push it down then slide It to the door. Once you get one side in you should be able to get the rest of it down. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
@@YOUFLOOR thanks! That helps
My t moldings were installed transitioning from an LVP floor to a carpet...but the t moldings keep making a cracking/popping sound when I walk on them. What could the problem be?
Might be the transition popping In and out of the track. Try stepping on it in different ares of the transition, and you may be able to pinpoint the problem area. Have your floor guy. Just reinstall it
@@YOUFLOOR Yes, I think that’s what it is...I will mark all the areas were the popping sound is happening. Maybe my floor guy needs to raise up the t molding track slightly so that it doesn’t keep popping in and out of the track. Thank you so much for your help.
Sounds like you've been watching some YOUFLOOR vids. Thanks for the question
Do you by chance work at Design Mart?
@It’s Just Lyla. No, that’s not me! 😂
@@YOUFLOOR you have a doppelgänger then!
I’m sure it’s me. But I’m blaming the product. Fuck this difficult ass thing. Lol it won’t SNAP IN!!
They can be a pain. It's all in the prep. Good luck
ua-cam.com/video/HAY2pOz4qqk/v-deo.html … Here is a link to one of the other main types of transitions available
Now that is pretty snazzy. I like that
You don’t really explain much on what you were doing and cutting at the beginning
Sorry, I'm cutting the small tab that is only needed when you are using it as a reducer. Hope that helps. Thanks for the question
Hold camera still and focus closer.
@Bo Haley Thanks for the tip! I will let the camera guy know LOL! Usually, the camera guy is my tripod but, in this video, it is my wife!
hack . get a mitre saw and a rubber mallet maybe.
You should have told everyone you only need that piece if you're going up over carpet. Rubber hammer for that please.
Right on
Nota show derails move to muchs the camara
Yeah usually use a tripod but forgot it on this day. Wife was learning how to be a camera guy. I fired her from that job😄 thanks for the comment
The instructions with this product are terrible. They dont even show floor types, etc. in the cross sections.
Yes I agree. Had to doing some figuring out myself. Thanks for the comment
Sure there is an easier way bro
I'm sure there is too. Thanks for the comment
This guy looks like he is packing 8-9 inches. I’m sure it’s fat too.
Anyone watching this do not use a multi tool that close to your hand. If that thing jumps its eating fingers to the bone. Honestly horrible idea. Atleast wear thick gloves.
Thanks for the feedback
such a garbage design. the metal rails of the past were simpler and easier to use.
I agree. Was a little confusing