Great instructor. Felt like I was actually in your shop pearing over your shoulder while you worked and chatted about what we were discovering.. and how to proceed. Thanks for posting.
1200's are are built like absolute tanks. I know DJ's that have been using the same ones for a couple decades without any maintenance and they still work great. Iconic for sure.
I bought two new in midtown Manhattan, late 80's. A small drop of light machine oil on the spindle every 5 years or so is all it's ever had. No issues, tanks for sure -
Very interesting video. Having never attempted anything so delicate or intricate, I am thrilled to put this into my cache of YT vids for future reference. Thank you for the detailed look at the disassembly of a 1200mk2.
I have a 1600 mk1 that I stripped to clean and then decided I would take completely apart and respray it, it looks like new now, and I feel good when I remember the sorry state it was in when I got it, I also have a 1600mk2 that has an electronic problem ( and that is not my area ) so I have sent it away for work, I loved your video.
My 1200s came from a friend who bought them in the early 90's second hand and they were already about 15 years old when he bought them, still going fine.
The legs of the capacitor get the "fuzzies". In other words, oxidation/corrosion. It can be from the electrolyte leaking out or as in this case, moisture. I have no doubt these tables were stored in a very damp/wet area.
I found mine in a dumpster. The platter and electronics are good. I haven't found a new set of bearings to replace the missing and nicked ones in the tone arm. I pulled a Sl 1300 with it. Later from another dumpster I found a SL-7 grabbed a power cord and the SL-7 was attached to the other end. It was landing a whale going fishing. Imagine my surprise. Using now it works as it should. Yet another pleasant surprise.
Viper Frank , Deck Tech from the UK. And DJ Legion have the best vids out there. On how to. Thx for sharing. There is not vid on how to recap this board would be nice if you make a vid on how to and which type of capacitors to use. I think it'll help the community thanks for sharing.
Ive been racking my brain trying to figure out how they got like this. My conclusions are: One, they were used at an outdoor rave that unexpectedly rained and then they were stored in a garage/shed outside (or inside but the damage was already done). Two, they were used in the outside part of a club and got rained on and then stored in a shed/garage (or inside but the damage was already done). Three, they used to be fine, but the owner stopped DJ'ing and thought "no one plays vinyl anymore, these are worthless", and stored them in a leaky shed/garage. Only to find out ten to fifteen years later they actually are worth money. Four, they were stored in a non-climate controlled storage shed (where moisture got in), the owner kept paying the storage fees for years, then quit paying, and someone bought the unit. Five, these were left or were confiscated by a homeowner whos tenant owed rent, who then stored them in a shed/garage/storage unit, only to find out they were worth money years later. Six, and ex lover of someone took these as payment for some kind of money owed and stored them incorrectly, only to find out they were worth money years later. Seven, someone heard these were "built like tanks" and decided to do an experiment to see if they would keeping running even after being left to the elements (this scenario is highly unlikely).
i have got technics sl q3 it is an automatic turntable , please tell me how to change/clean the micro switch under the tonearm. I tried to clean it and works for sometime but again it starts spinning the plater even when the tonearm is in its place.
Excellent video, never been able to find any info on repairing the spindle. Is it possible to fix that part on newer models (2001ish) which dont have the bearing just the metal clip?
Any tips folks, I've just cleaned my spindle,& followed the vid,My deck powers up but will not spin, and when I spin the plater by hand it feels rough but was smooth before. UPDATE the oil I used was way to thin it's as good as new now dead silent I used 3 in 1 oil this time.
These are the working horse of the industry. All that is fixable. Love these turntable. I've revived a couple. There is some great vids from Viper and Dj Legion from the UK. It's amazing how much info they provide I will not replace my mk 2's for. Anything else. If you want a really smooth pitch slider then replace it with the ZFDZ122N11-3 you'll love it. The light won't come on. At 0 position That's it.
Hi, the VTA on my Technics 1200mk2 is frozen and a friend has opened it up to try to fix it. Wondering what grease to use? Ideally would be something I could pick up tomorrow at Home Depot or an automotive store. Thanks in advance!
Nice Vid,where do you get all the capacitors,Resistors,Diodes etc ? To fully recap a Technics! I would like to get some of them ! is it possible to find every single capacitor,Resistor etc that is on the Mother Board ? Thanks
@@TurntableGuy looks like the tonearm is fine, but the gimbal is a little more corroded. Still seems to work fluidly, so I’m gonna rock it for now under the assumption that the actual mechanical bits are fine, just a bit of topical corrosion. Thanks for putting my mind at ease about the tonearm itself.
Hello, great video and very informative. Can anybody recommend a product to clean a platter of a mk5 that has some dark corrosion? I've already used dish soap, alcohol which worked on some pieces, not the metal on the platter. I read somewhere that they used a different alloy on that platter, and not the standard aluminum, but I'm not sure. I've own/owned an mk2, two mk3D's and never had any issues, except for this 1210mk5. I had it in a road case for a few years after buying and it formed some wicked corrosion on most of the metal, especially the platter (which checks out as an original). I've never seen anything like it, there were white crystals on the metal that I had to wipe off first and now I can't get it back to normal. Thanks!
@@TurntableGuy Thanks, I had the usual dish soap with no luck, and vinegar was suggested since somebody thought it was oxidized. Alcohol took some of it off of some metal parts, but the platter still has dark corrosion. I used one industrial cleaner carefully, especially on the dots, with no luck, and ordered a bottle of Brasso that will be here tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!
Small rotary tool and fine relatively soft wire brush for the corrosion maybe? I've used this method and it worked out just fine for me. I also agree with the people talking about WD40 as a cleaning agent and corrosion inhibitor
Great video, very well explained, and good clear video. Thank you for showing me how it comes apart in these areas. Very helpful information to know. I feel 100% confident as towards doing everything you did if needed. Question: on your tonearm leveling ring that you glued back on, was there a calibration mark to align this plastic ring with other other half you glued it to so the height marks are calibrated correctly? Your thoughts on clipping and grounding the turntable ground at one of the rca ground shield points? I was told as long as my external amp I’m using has the chassis ground thumb screw is connected directly to the ground shields of the amps chassis jacks this method is fine. Other people have said its best to leave the original external ground wire to keep the turntable OEM, and worth more, as well as the external ground makes the turntable more cross-compatible with older amps or pre-amp gear that may not have the rca’s ground attached to the amps main metal cabinet chassis ground lug. I ordered a new RCA cables with pcb board already attached for my SL1200MK2, only the cartridge wires need soldered, the seller says the board is designed to be internally grounded and doesn’t require the extra ground wire. I was thinking on running the original ground wire out anyways if it attaches elsewhere inside the turntable other that the tonearm board. Maybe I should just leave my oem tonearm board in place and just remove the rca cables from his custom pcb and solder them to my stock tonearm pcb, since I know they are thin enough to fit under the stock strain relief clamp, and leave the stock ground wire untouched. Your thoughts on this please. Best sound quality, versatility would be top priority, keeping stock for resale value would be of a secondary concern, for I never plan on selling this great turntable. Thanks again my friend, great job.
Leave the ring loose and turn the arm all the way down - that is the zero point. I would leave the external ground as is, unless you are a DJ and need the ground cable removed.
Is corrosion a generic term for rust or is rust a generic term for corrosion? Rust or oxidation generally refers to iron in its many forms, however I think the term you are looking for is oxidation. Aluminum has oxidation. Rust, corrosion and oxidation are used for each other in the GWN?
When did the mark 2 start using a nylon shim.? Yes a bit worn that shim that's good to use the silicone grease but try and get silicon carbon grease Try finding a fine leather belt a stick you can wrap the belt around and around the piece of wood and rotate to free it up
It is very distressing to see such a fine turntable in such critical condition. Apparently, its previous owner managed it very badly. I have been dealing with this model of turntables for more than 30 years, but I have never seen anyone with such an attitude towards the technique. I hope it is now in good condition and serving its current owner faithfully.
I used Liquid Wrench Light Machine Oil for the bearing bushing and Permatex Synthetic grease on the bearing plate. If I ever get a T60 in for service, I will film it.
I've used sewing machine oil works as good. I've heard it's the same weight as the original Panasonic. And more affordable. And white lithium grease for the pitch slider after it's been cleaned inside the metal casing ONLY. NOT on the electrical contacts. For that use DeOxit and fader lube. And at least 90% alcohol or greater to clean the pitch slider board before applying the grease and fader lube
I do find it funny that you are utterly disgusted by the corrosion. I’ve seen so many restoration videos now that I’m not the slightest bit phased, especially for a piece of equipment like this where it is every bit worth a full restoration
@@TurntableGuy ah I see, so it was more frustration than anything. That was a really informative video and you are right - I hope I never have to deal with a seized VTA height adjustment assembly. That was nerve wracking!
@@fkthewhat not really it's no's bad taking it a part. Just make sure if you remove the dial ring to put it back the only way it should go. There is a small dot in the plastic ring and a dot in the aluminum made I think re wiring the tone arm is more nerve racking
You have to disconnect the quartz lock (there are video's,disconnect yellow and orange wires,)and dismantle the slider and remove the spring and ball bearing. This involves unsoldering the slider from the board it is on.
Did you forget this is the working horse of the industry? Once you clean and lube the spindle it will back in business. Would be nice if you make a vid replacing all the caps. Thanks for sharing
Je hebt teveel recap video.s gezien die zeggen dat dat altijd moet. Neem van mij aan dat het dikke bs is. Ik heb hier 12 werkende pcb.s liggen uit veel jaartallen, waarvan er niet 1 een recap nodig heeft. En ja ik heb de caps doorgemeten. Vallen allemaal binnen de waardes.
@@TurntableGuy how come you didn't clean it? in the beginning you mentioned that the corrosion around the transformer was concerning. thanks for the video
Well - you could have had this much much easier: Just open the "lock-lever" when trying to change the tonearm height :-) ....oh boy! But anyways: Good effort, good result
For a home table, that's the one turntable I'd never buy. They have been in smoky sweaty bars. I'm sure a drink or two have been spilled in or on them. The switches and sliders get worn out too. The 1200 especially were a lot of times were beaten up and abused.. For a Technics home table an SL-Q2 or SL-Q3 are really nice. They were built like tanks too, with the same S -arm, platter, and quarts speed lock as the 1200 tables.. In Technics turntables, the model ending with a two are semi automatic and ending with a three are the automatic tables. I prefer semi automatic.
Not that it would be for just anyone, but I would probably gut it, do something like one guy on youtube sanded and polished the plenth to a mirror shine, and basically replace the whole board and electronics.. This thing is hosed otherwise. It's quite unfortunate. It's even more terrible to think someone left these outside.. It's the only explanation for all the corrosion. I was thinking drinks were spilled on it but..I think if that were the case there would be a lot of solid buildup everywhere. Glad it's working.. I wouldn't trust it in it's current state though..
Very interesting video, shame tho it was reassembled looking so rusty and scruffy? I would not feel satisfied rebuilding it and having the final result as that. Poor Turntable......
Great instructor. Felt like I was actually in your shop pearing over your shoulder while you worked and chatted about what we were discovering.. and how to proceed.
Thanks for posting.
1200's are are built like absolute tanks. I know DJ's that have been using the same ones for a couple decades without any maintenance and they still work great. Iconic for sure.
I bought two new in midtown Manhattan, late 80's. A small drop of light machine oil on the spindle every 5 years or so is all it's ever had. No issues, tanks for sure -
I've had mine for 23 years and they are still going strong.
Had mine 35years not even serviced & still work perfect
The longer video was worth it. Learned so much. Great job!
Had mine nearly thirty years, never had a problem , absolute beauty’s
Very interesting video. Having never attempted anything so delicate or intricate, I am thrilled to put this into my cache of YT vids for future reference. Thank you for the detailed look at the disassembly of a 1200mk2.
All this great info AND a money shot!! ;-) Great tutorial. I'm in the middle of the same thing myself so this is valuable to me.
I have a 1600 mk1 that I stripped to clean and then decided I would take completely apart and respray it, it looks like new now, and I feel good when I remember the sorry state it was in when I got it, I also have a 1600mk2 that has an electronic problem ( and that is not my area ) so I have sent it away for work, I loved your video.
Love your videos,learning alot!
My 1200s came from a friend who bought them in the early 90's second hand and they were already about 15 years old when he bought them, still going fine.
Wow, what patience! Thanks.
What is the technical description of a fuzzy capacitor? Did somebody find this turntable in the river?
The legs of the capacitor get the "fuzzies". In other words, oxidation/corrosion. It can be from the electrolyte leaking out or as in this case, moisture. I have no doubt these tables were stored in a very damp/wet area.
I found mine in a dumpster. The platter and electronics are good. I haven't found a new set of bearings to replace the missing and nicked ones in the tone arm. I pulled a Sl 1300 with it. Later from another dumpster I found a SL-7 grabbed a power cord and the SL-7 was attached to the other end. It was landing a whale going fishing. Imagine my surprise. Using now it works as it should. Yet another pleasant surprise.
Why would you not take all the components out and clean them before doing any work on them?
I.m getting a head egg from this video pffff. Omg
Viper Frank , Deck Tech from the UK. And DJ Legion have the best vids out there. On how to.
Thx for sharing. There is not vid on how to recap this board would be nice if you make a vid on how to and which type of capacitors to use. I think it'll help the community thanks for sharing.
+1 I can’t find a full recap video and would greatly appreciate one
Someone seems to have spilled a beer on this thing.
Rust inhibitor? Possibly an Ultrasonic Cleaner. Did they use pot metal?
When you have steel screws into aluminum heat is your best bet it will save you braking screws off or striping heads..
5)
5)
The spindle you can take it a part and get it going.
1:05:25 Looked like you accidentally crazy glue the brass ring and aluminium base too.
Ive been racking my brain trying to figure out how they got like this. My conclusions are:
One, they were used at an outdoor rave that unexpectedly rained and then they were stored in a garage/shed outside (or inside but the damage was already done).
Two, they were used in the outside part of a club and got rained on and then stored in a shed/garage (or inside but the damage was already done).
Three, they used to be fine, but the owner stopped DJ'ing and thought "no one plays vinyl anymore, these are worthless", and stored them in a leaky shed/garage. Only to find out ten to fifteen years later they actually are worth money.
Four, they were stored in a non-climate controlled storage shed (where moisture got in), the owner kept paying the storage fees for years, then quit paying, and someone bought the unit.
Five, these were left or were confiscated by a homeowner whos tenant owed rent, who then stored them in a shed/garage/storage unit, only to find out they were worth money years later.
Six, and ex lover of someone took these as payment for some kind of money owed and stored them incorrectly, only to find out they were worth money years later.
Seven, someone heard these were "built like tanks" and decided to do an experiment to see if they would keeping running even after being left to the elements (this scenario is highly unlikely).
You really thought this through...😁
i have got technics sl q3 it is an automatic turntable , please tell me how to change/clean the micro switch under the tonearm. I tried to clean it and works for sometime but again it starts spinning the plater even when the tonearm is in its place.
Excellent video, never been able to find any info on repairing the spindle. Is it possible to fix that part on newer models (2001ish) which dont have the bearing just the metal clip?
Any tips folks, I've just cleaned my spindle,& followed the vid,My deck powers up but will not spin, and when I spin the plater by hand it feels rough but was smooth before.
UPDATE the oil I used was way to thin it's as good as new now dead silent I used 3 in 1 oil this time.
I'm waiting for this gentleman to start doing hand stands on the platter
These are the working horse of the industry. All that is fixable. Love these turntable. I've revived a couple. There is some great vids from Viper and Dj Legion from the UK. It's amazing how much info they provide I will not replace my mk 2's for. Anything else. If you want a really smooth pitch slider then replace it with the ZFDZ122N11-3 you'll love it. The light won't come on. At 0 position That's it.
Brake can be adjusted to make it work better. It's the variable resistor on the right above the plug.
Hi, the VTA on my Technics 1200mk2 is frozen and a friend has opened it up to try to fix it. Wondering what grease to use? Ideally would be something I could pick up tomorrow at Home Depot or an automotive store. Thanks in advance!
Just a general purpose synthetic grease will work fine.
Nice Vid,where do you get all the capacitors,Resistors,Diodes etc ? To fully recap a Technics! I would like to get some of them ! is it possible to find every single capacitor,Resistor etc that is on the Mother Board ? Thanks
Digikey or Mouser
Any recommendation for taking corrosion off of a tonearm on one of those? Just wd-40 and some elbow grease?
As long as the corrosion hasn't eaten through the chrome plating, you should be good.
@@TurntableGuy looks like the tonearm is fine, but the gimbal is a little more corroded. Still seems to work fluidly, so I’m gonna rock it for now under the assumption that the actual mechanical bits are fine, just a bit of topical corrosion. Thanks for putting my mind at ease about the tonearm itself.
Aluminum foil and vinegar. Very light, will polish.
So sad to see a 1200 in that kind of shape
many of them are in a bad state cause of the dj-ing
Hello, great video and very informative. Can anybody recommend a product to clean a platter of a mk5 that has some dark corrosion? I've already used dish soap, alcohol which worked on some pieces, not the metal on the platter. I read somewhere that they used a different alloy on that platter, and not the standard aluminum, but I'm not sure.
I've own/owned an mk2, two mk3D's and never had any issues, except for this 1210mk5. I had it in a road case for a few years after buying and it formed some wicked corrosion on most of the metal, especially the platter (which checks out as an original). I've never seen anything like it, there were white crystals on the metal that I had to wipe off first and now I can't get it back to normal. Thanks!
Try Brasso.
great job. My Quartz Lock ST-1400 MK2 in for repair at Ring Audip in Toronto thank you 12 Volt and the turntable Guy
@@TurntableGuy Thanks, I had the usual dish soap with no luck, and vinegar was suggested since somebody thought it was oxidized. Alcohol took some of it off of some metal parts, but the platter still has dark corrosion. I used one industrial cleaner carefully, especially on the dots, with no luck, and ordered a bottle of Brasso that will be here tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!
My technics 1200mk2 has never given me a single problem and I bought in 1984 brand new
hello i have the same mk 1200 there is no sound in left speaker
Test continuity on the RCA cables and replace if necessary. Solder the new ones in.
Could be your stylus, cartridge, tone arm, rcas. Gotta start testing
@@BeersAndBeatsPDX working with headphones so probaly something wrong with speakers
Small rotary tool and fine relatively soft wire brush for the corrosion maybe? I've used this method and it worked out just fine for me. I also agree with the people talking about WD40 as a cleaning agent and corrosion inhibitor
I wonder who the culprit was, my guess is probably miller light or maybe pabst.
We're in Canada, so probably Labatt's Blue or Molson Canadian.
Great video, very well explained, and good clear video. Thank you for showing me how it comes apart in these areas. Very helpful information to know. I feel 100% confident as towards doing everything you did if needed. Question: on your tonearm leveling ring that you glued back on, was there a calibration mark to align this plastic ring with other other half you glued it to so the height marks are calibrated correctly? Your thoughts on clipping and grounding the turntable ground at one of the rca ground shield points? I was told as long as my external amp I’m using has the chassis ground thumb screw is connected directly to the ground shields of the amps chassis jacks this method is fine. Other people have said its best to leave the original external ground wire to keep the turntable OEM, and worth more, as well as the external ground makes the turntable more cross-compatible with older amps or pre-amp gear that may not have the rca’s ground attached to the amps main metal cabinet chassis ground lug. I ordered a new RCA cables with pcb board already attached for my SL1200MK2, only the cartridge wires need soldered, the seller says the board is designed to be internally grounded and doesn’t require the extra ground wire. I was thinking on running the original ground wire out anyways if it attaches elsewhere inside the turntable other that the tonearm board. Maybe I should just leave my oem tonearm board in place and just remove the rca cables from his custom pcb and solder them to my stock tonearm pcb, since I know they are thin enough to fit under the stock strain relief clamp, and leave the stock ground wire untouched. Your thoughts on this please. Best sound quality, versatility would be top priority, keeping stock for resale value would be of a secondary concern, for I never plan on selling this great turntable.
Thanks again my friend, great job.
Leave the ring loose and turn the arm all the way down - that is the zero point. I would leave the external ground as is, unless you are a DJ and need the ground cable removed.
Is corrosion a generic term for rust or is rust a generic term for corrosion? Rust or oxidation generally refers to iron in its many forms, however I think the term you are looking for is oxidation. Aluminum has oxidation. Rust, corrosion and oxidation are used for each other in the GWN?
When did the mark 2 start using a nylon shim.? Yes a bit worn that shim that's good to use the silicone grease but try and get silicon carbon grease
Try finding a fine leather belt a stick you can wrap the belt around and around the piece of wood and rotate to free it up
Good tip, thanks.
looks like Sponge Bob was using this Turntable for the past 13 years at Bikini bottom.....dam you got Sponge Bob's Turntable...nice!
Doesn’t anyone know the components necessary for a working motor, platter and pitch control? No need for tonearm or any audio cables
Are you Canadian?
Yes
@@TurntableGuy I thought I detected that. Just watched another video where you tested the turntable with Rush's Permanent Waves! Awesome
Looks like this unit was outside for quite a while and was rained on
or in a nightclub and a drink spilled on it
It is very distressing to see such a fine turntable in such critical condition. Apparently, its previous owner managed it very badly. I have been dealing with this model of turntables for more than 30 years, but I have never seen anyone with such an attitude towards the technique. I hope it is now in good condition and serving its current owner faithfully.
Corrosion possibly from being used a lot outside a lot Or storing them in a case in a outside building Humidity will f things up
Nice vid. Thx for sharing. That spindle can be cleaned and lubed.
What brand of caps would you recommend to use for these 1200's? Thx
Brand does not matter. Stick to the major Japanese companies such as Nichicon, Elna, NCC, Panasonic. Nichicon UPW series are excellent.
@@TurntableGuy thanks mate
There is a UA-camr named viperfrank from a few years ago that did many videos on the 1200. Yours is good, too.
Yes, I actually mention him in the video - he is a 1200 specialist.
Highly recommend.
Great video! Can you please let me know what lube you used? Also, if you need suggestions, I'd love to see a HK T60 vid!
I used Liquid Wrench Light Machine Oil for the bearing bushing and Permatex Synthetic grease on the bearing plate. If I ever get a T60 in for service, I will film it.
I've used sewing machine oil works as good. I've heard it's the same weight as the original Panasonic. And more affordable. And white lithium grease for the pitch slider after it's been cleaned inside the metal casing ONLY. NOT on the electrical contacts. For that use DeOxit and fader lube. And at least 90% alcohol or greater to clean the pitch slider board before applying the grease and fader lube
アバウトな修理で素晴らしい！
Looks like it was salvaged from the Titanic
Had mine since 90 and still perfect. There aint nothin i can,t mix. Carl Cox lookout 🤣
What year is the turntable, Sir?
I didn't check the date, but my guess was early to mid 1980s.
@@TurntableGuy The turntable should have a serial number sticker on the back, and you could look up the manufacturing date on another website.
@@MitchellHang Good to know.
I do find it funny that you are utterly disgusted by the corrosion. I’ve seen so many restoration videos now that I’m not the slightest bit phased, especially for a piece of equipment like this where it is every bit worth a full restoration
In my many years of repairing tables, I've never seen such a mistreated unit before. It looked a lot worse in person than on video.
@@TurntableGuy ah I see, so it was more frustration than anything. That was a really informative video and you are right - I hope I never have to deal with a seized VTA height adjustment assembly. That was nerve wracking!
@@fkthewhat not really it's no's bad taking it a part. Just make sure if you remove the dial ring to put it back the only way it should go. There is a small dot in the plastic ring and a dot in the aluminum made I think re wiring the tone arm is more nerve racking
Unlike belt driven turntables that sweeten music,MK2 delivers music as it should be:raw and neutral.
mk2's are the worst. is there a way to upgrade them so they don't click at zero?
You have to disconnect the quartz lock (there are video's,disconnect yellow and orange wires,)and dismantle the slider and remove the spring and ball bearing. This involves unsoldering the slider from the board it is on.
I think you can get the pitcher replaced with one that doesn’t click
Deck is owned my a DJ and is covered in white powder, must be corrosion,,,,,righto
Absolutely fantastico to watch, awesome video. 👍👍
Did you forget this is the working horse of the industry? Once you clean and lube the spindle it will back in business.
Would be nice if you make a vid replacing all the caps. Thanks for sharing
There's probably a video of a Cambodian guy who would wire brush it, rattle can it and then get 4M views.
😂😂 no shit
And resell it .
"Dust on the mantl, dust on the chair, dust on the table she could not bear".
DAYYYYYYMMMMMMMMNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN!!!! That's like a crack hoose turntable... 👊🏽💣💥
you need to replace all the capacitors with such a unit, they's all shitty, you just don't see it.
Je hebt teveel recap video.s gezien die zeggen dat dat altijd moet. Neem van mij aan dat het dikke bs is. Ik heb hier 12 werkende pcb.s liggen uit veel jaartallen, waarvan er niet 1 een recap nodig heeft. En ja ik heb de caps doorgemeten. Vallen allemaal binnen de waardes.
1:01:09 🤣🤣🤣
I can't believe you left all that corrosion around the transformer.
You can't believe it? OMG!
@@TurntableGuy how come you didn't clean it? in the beginning you mentioned that the corrosion around the transformer was concerning. thanks for the video
Well - you could have had this much much easier: Just open the "lock-lever" when trying to change the tonearm height :-) ....oh boy! But anyways: Good effort, good result
For a home table, that's the one turntable I'd never buy. They have been in smoky sweaty bars. I'm sure a drink or two have been spilled in or on them. The switches and sliders get worn out too. The 1200 especially were a lot of times were beaten up and abused.. For a Technics home table an SL-Q2 or SL-Q3 are really nice. They were built like tanks too, with the same S -arm, platter, and quarts speed lock as the 1200 tables.. In Technics turntables, the model ending with a two are semi automatic and ending with a three are the automatic tables. I prefer semi automatic.
Not that it would be for just anyone, but I would probably gut it, do something like one guy on youtube sanded and polished the plenth to a mirror shine, and basically replace the whole board and electronics.. This thing is hosed otherwise. It's quite unfortunate. It's even more terrible to think someone left these outside.. It's the only explanation for all the corrosion. I was thinking drinks were spilled on it but..I think if that were the case there would be a lot of solid buildup everywhere. Glad it's working.. I wouldn't trust it in it's current state though..
I know the owner and it's still running.
@@TurntableGuy Awesome!
Tribute to Technics....
Very interesting video, shame tho it was reassembled looking so rusty and scruffy? I would not feel satisfied rebuilding it and having the final result as that. Poor Turntable......
I only do what the customer requests.
Wipe the backside,!!! we use toilet paper for that
Neuen Lappen benutzen 😂😂😂
Treat with disrespect in the past. To be honest they are one of the ugliest decks ever made.
Remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
To me it’s the definition of how a turntable has to look. S-shaped tonearm, silver metal surface, direct drive - that’s all I need.
But boy are they strong and durable.
@@TurntableGuycould you point me to a good pitch/slider cleaner and lube ?
Deoxit F5 (Faderlube) @@cobro2
Tec 12s are for wrecking 🌚 I prefer the audio technica AT LP 1240s now.
lol
very very big lol. clearly you dont know your stuff
ahahahah
Tec 12s are iconic and reliable...know ur stuff kiddo.
@@michaelvigouroux8909 while Audio technica is absolute garbage, just like all decks of today..