Episode 24. Testing an oil cooler on a 212 cc Predator engine
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Episode 24. More power means a hotter engine, In this video Jimbo dons his scientist hat and tries to figure out how to make an air cooled engine run cooler. A series of cool experiments are conducted to validate his theories.
This episode lays the ground work necessary for the future supercharger instillation in the 420 cc street legal go kart.
We have 24 episodes on how we built a street legal go kart with both a 212 cc and a 420 cc Predator engine. This amazing video series chronicles one mans attempt to go as fast as possible with the smallest engines available. Its all for fun, but there are some interesting lessens to be learned.
Look at moneybags with the inch thick plywood test bench. These days it would be cheaper to use gold. LOL
I just sold my house to line my shed looks good though
That's no joke! Working in construction (electrical) personally, we've seen our wire prices nearly quadruple in the last 6 or so months.
@@goosenotmaverick1156 you can thank Biden for that.
@@midixiewrecked7011 Dont forget Hillary
@@chriscoralAloha oh hell, don't get me started on Hillary.
Watching this show helps me believe that a man like Ford, Edison or Tesla still exists in America
Absolutely man 👍
i would add John Browning instead of Edison
Totally agree. I’d like to see if he can make an electric car out of kitchen appliances. Lol. (Since our fuel is going to be non existent soon)
@@Staygoldfarms This would be entertaining!
But Thomas Edison and Henry Ford were real a-holes.
"If my calculations are correct when this baby hits 88amps your gonna see some serious shit."
Return the cooled oil to the cylinder head, not the sump.
Seems sensible. But I don’t know shinola about forced lubrication system design. Keeping the intake air cool is a good thing, right?
I think some cooled oil run to the cylinder head is a great idea but all of the flow may actually not drain down to the crankcase too fast. Idk though.
@@Only1Sethy How do the 212 lube the valves?
They have enough space along the pushrods for oil to splash from the sump up to the valves.
The problem might be oil escaping trough the crank vent.
@@pepethefrog7193 honestly not sure, probably just by splashing. That's also true with the crankcase vent. I'm thinking just a T to split the flow between the head and crankcase would be ideal? Not sure though. Only way to find out what's most effective is to try right?
i mean thats an idea but just returning the cooled oil to the sump dropped the temps like what? nearly 30c? thats huge already!
I freaking love how the name gets longer and longer each video LOL
I would try routing the cooled oil differently instead of having the cooled oil returning into the sump. see what would happen if you have the cooled oil return into the head through the valve cover.
I agree, that way more heat is pulled from the head into the oil instead of the loop of cool oil flowing through the cooler. with no passages to flow it through the head, how well would dumping it over the rockers work? Going back to where it drains back into the block through the factory galley wouldn't pull as much heat and would be just about the same as flowing through the bottom of the block with little heat transfer.
@@braddorris4535 good idea but there would have to modify the oil returns threw the head. if that issue is not addressed first then the oil cooler will be pointless if all the oil is in the head and not enough in the crankcase to lube the bearings up
@@mikefloyd6732 exactly!! It’s definitely something I’m interested in
That’s how a turbo swapped cars return oil.from oil pan to turbo then to valve cover but it’s the oil pump…. For now
@@TheViny633 turbos use an oversized return back to the oil pan, not the top of the heads, they get their oil from the engines pressurized system in the block and at the turbo it drops pressure, hints the oversized return line, if it kept pressure the seals in the turbo would blow out and cause it to smoke out of the down/up pipe
Sir, as a representative of the metric crowd, I thank you
Another of those tentimesers Snobs
UA-cam needs a "That's Friggin AWESOME" button for this channel....
Pulse pumps will move oil. Build break repeat did this on their turbo build. Also like many have stated you may want to return the cool oil to a higher point I would use the place where the governor was, assuming you have removed it. Top tins/plate to direct the airflow over the cylinder head fins, normally part of the throttle assembly and fuel tank mount.
Woo! New episode!
For an efficient package, you can try running a duct in between the cooling fan of the engine, in front of where the recoil is, and the radiator.
To reduce power draw, you could try to use a mechanical fuel pump, the kind that runs on intake pulses or crankcase pulses, to circulate oil.
And I'd love to see what simply changing the oil in the car from 20w40, to 10w30 would do for top speed.
I was going to suggest basically the same things.
I've been saying that in other vids along with oil cooling. Without a duct bringing cool air into the engine, hot will just recirculate under the hood.
@@bobroberts2371 to an extent. Even with the belly pan, an insight has a large vent area underneath the vehicle. At idle yes, it would be an issue. But cruising down the road at any speed whatsoever there should be enough forward motion to blow air through where the radiator used to be into the engine compartment. Remember he lost power and efficiency when he tried to block that off.
He could however block off most of it and create a dedicated duct, one for the air intake and one for the engine cooling. That would yield positive results
But pulling out heat from the oil an injecting it back to the cooling fins is pointless.
With pre-heated air from radiator the cooling fins on the cylinder head would'nt do much.
@@casemodder89 but you got to look at the totality of the system. That is a bypass cooler at best. There isn't a whole lot of cooling in the first place. And the benefit is that the cool oil can end up where you want it, like at one of the hottest points of an engine, the cylinder head.
The name of the game isn't necessarily the absolute coldest you can run the engine, it's stabilizing the entire engine with a constant temp.
This series is more captivating than Game of Thrones
The simple humor and the commentary makes these videos that much better😂😂
Consider using a lithium battery (which can absorb very high rates of charge), connecting an alternator to the drive line of the vehicle, and using the voltage regulator as a form of regenerative braking. Not sure if the juice is worth the squeeze, but could be an option to get you more on-board power.
Great Idea, probably not very effective in very flat areas
Aren't alternators a bad choice for that application because they're only around 60% efficient, whereas a generator is more like 90-95%.
Hybrid drivetrain would be very difficult to implement, but you could probably use an alternator as a brake to recover energy to run a pump and the other electronics. If you have an alternator switch like hypermilers use you could hook that up to the brake pedal and voila, would probably work. Then again if anybody can jank together a hybrid drivetrain with a vaccum cleaner and toothpaste from ali express its Jimbo lol
Good idea but alternators can be as bad as 28% efficiency at high rpm + low load.
So an external lifepo battery without the weight of an alt would be way better for performance.
Also if you need some power, get a low K/V brushless motor, B6 rectifier and a shunt type voltage regulator.
That'd give you about 80% efficiency on the motor-generator and somewhat like 5% additional loss for regulation.
I have an old Harley Davidson ironhead Sportster, so named because the jugs and heads are cast iron and yes air cooled. They are know to run quite hot, an Earl's 10 row oil cooler meant for the front of sportbikes works great. I have it mounted vertically in front of the rear tire under the seat area, it is a hardtail so no rear suspension. Amazing how much air flows off a spinning tire, dropped my in tank oil temp from around 230f when thrashing it hard to 180f. Nice seeing another Michigan mad scientist at work.
You could try wrapping copper tubing in between the cooling fins of the engine. then circulating water through it, you might need a thermal compound to help transfer the heat. You could also try having direct air cooling, take an old radiator fan and just blast air at the cylinder.
Not a big car guy but wouldn't he have two radiators and a pump. Set one rad up just like the oil one then put the other where the pull start was so that fan pulls in cooler air with the fan. No it wouldn't cool as well as wrapping copper tubing but it's something. Or I just have no idea what I'm talking about. Lol
Adding fans and pumps would cost a lot of power. Adding heat pipes to the head with thermal compound would increase the surface area a lot with minimal weight and no power input.
I agree with routing to the valve cover with the cool oil. Also a pulse style fuel pump that works off the crankcase pressure pulse may work.
@Robot Cantina You might want to re-test the oil cooler. You had tons of air in the lines, which can impact temps. Maybe a return higher than the resting oil level. so your pump isn't fighting as hard. Lastly, get some old cpu heat sinks and bond them to the pump, help it stay cool without adding to much weight. Scamazon sells the bonding agent, or you could just use zip ties and some thermal paste. Hope this helps love this series.
My thoughts exactly. I've used a similar looking pump. It said to keep it lower then the gas tank as it does a better job pushing fluid then pulling fluid. That is one of the reasons why fuel pumps are located inside gas tanks.
Always out here making videos about the questions I won't ask anyone, well done.
Not familiar with how the oil is delivered to the bearing on these small engines, but it appears that your recirculation system would drop the oil level in the sump. If it is to low, the slinger (or whatever delivery method) won't be able to pick up the amount necessary for the bearings. Might have cool oil but still lower bearing life. You might consider a stand pipe on the sump connected to secondary oil reservoir. That way you can maintain the designed level at the lower temperature.
I assumed that he had the pump running, then filled the sump to the appropriate level. Once the cooling system has filled with oil, you keep filling it until the sump is at the normal fill level. Shouldn't have any significant impact.
I don't believe there is enough oil either, the pump is sucking air. That's why there are the bubbles in the line going into the radiator.
The engine has a splash type lubrication system. At high speeds oil is violently slung all over the crankcase and everything is covered with oil. Also at high speeds, the pump was sucking a bit of air due to the way the engine get lubricated. Before the test was conducted the oil level was topped off to accommodate the extra oil volume.
So from reading the comments, put the outlet of the oil cooler to the top of the motor.
Run a big hose(like a clothes dryer exhaust hose) from the front of the car to the fan inlet on the motor to ensure the cooling air coming in to the motor is as cool as possible.
Add an alternator on an axle where the alternator field is only energized when you hit the brakes for a regenerative braking kind of power increase.
Add a 100 watt flexible solar panel to the roof of the car.
And replace the normal starting battery under the hood with a lithium battery of the same weight as what is in there now.
The cube of knowledge really got me
I just had a funny chuckle over the pull cord for your light as I seen LOAD!
I was going to do a similar thing a year ago but not for cooling, was going to filter it instead. Exactly how you did it with a fuel pump etc into the 2 drain plugs. Neat stuff.
I have a date today, and now that I see the video I'm sure it's gonna go great. Thank you for all the talking points.
Go get em tiger
This has been a very interesting series. Really helps in my understanding in why modern cars are built like they are and what the engineering challenges are.
I'd love to see you test:
- Running the oil cooler without air bubbles
- Running the oil back into the head
- Putting a thermostat on the oil pump
- Running copper water cooling lines around the head to a rad with a thermostat controlled pump
- Test different oils
- More load and RPM (how far can you take these motors with an oil cooler? water cooler?)
I employ that copper cooling tube idea on a lot of the air cooled 2 strokes I build for supplemental cooling. Brazing the rods to the cylinder heads was the best improvement on that idea I've done so far. Only really limited then by water pump flow, and radiator size.
Excellent testing procedures and results. Back in the 70's at least one company sold liquid cooled heads for the Honda Odyssey 250. I believe a similar system would be the best option for the Predator as it eliminates all the issues with over/under filling the crankcase with a pump. The modified Odyssey did not require a water pump, it used the thermal siphon method, simple, trouble free and very effective.
Upgrade to a Marco .88 LPM pump, add a piston cooling jet, split the oil feed off to the valve cover to help control cylinder head temp, add a thermistor to control a fan mounted to the oil cooler and a deaeration chamber like a catch can before the pump. 👍🏽
Building this on a predator 420 for a golf cart currently.
Excellent work, love all the instrumentation and differential analysis! To few youtubers do this anymore.
Much appreciated!
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
I’d like to see this repeated but using a pump that doesn’t incorporate air bubbles and adding a typical 12v pusher fan mounted on the cooler
Really great work👏👏
When I worked at a golf course years ago we used to get clogged up recoil caps.. One of the maintenance guys just used a few inches of pvc sewer pipe with a fan in the end of it and it worked like a charm... Never had to worry about clogging or overheating again... Made my job sooo much easier!...
Something is wrong with me. I have no interest in anything mechanical but here I am following you 24 episodes later. Keep it up I’m learning stuff I wouldn’t intentionally learn.
I would love to see this video with one more run. The oil cooler in front of the engines cooling fan with a duct to pull air optimally through the cooler first. Then maybe another setup where you put a more high powered “radiator” type fan directly on the oil cooler in an auxiliary area away from the engine.
love the new outro it's like something out of This Old House
So glad someone tried the fuel pump to pump oil i have my 212 with piston pointing straight up for vintage motorcycle replica was wanting to use a pump to pump oil to the valve train now i know it works had it all setup but havent tried it since bike frame not done i still have engine apart so im glad my fuel/oil pump is going to work
I witnessed the cooling effect of the oil cooler first hand in cold starts On a alpine A310, and a 5 turbo 1 i owned. There was eng temp gauge and oil temp gauge. When the engine reached 98 deg C. The oil cooler thermostat opened. Immediately the engine temp would drop from 98c to 40c, and oil temp would rise from 0 to approx 40c. So efficiant oil cooling is essential.
the 212/420 probably do not have enough oil flow around the cylinder to cool it as its not expecting the airflow
@@Hewitt_himself The cylinder head could be water Jacketed if the Gentlemen doing the project wants to get serious! With or without the fins.
Thanks I really enjoy your videos, not only informative, but entertaining as well. Keep them coming.....
Thanks, will do!
I'm not an expert on the predator series engines, however I would imagine that pushing that oil back into the engine below the oil level is not a long term solution. We see this with scavenge pumps on rear mount turbo engines, ideal would be to have it run to the VC, then naturally accumulate back into the oil supply in the crank case.
Your data was pretty much as expected, and with a few tweaks should be a nice solution to maintaining acceptable bottom end temps. I understand your numbers were more for Deltas, but unfortunately, measuring CYL head temps from the outside, especially on an air cooled engine doesn't really tell us whats important, which are the cyl temps themselves. With any engine, the biggest IAT change (pre combustion) its time spent post-throttle body, specifically the milliseconds it exists in the cyl before combustion. Finding a way to measure that, and furthermore bring that down as much as possible is going to be the ticket to this engine not only making power, but surviving it.
Thats another reason why I've said it before, and I still stand by it, going to a supercharger is going to be a mistake for this engine. The popular opinion of "Turbos run hotter" is inaccurate, and matched with the same popular idea that turbo lag is gonna be a problem. Aside from the fact that a properly sized charger will spool almost immediately, that engine spends most of its time at WOT, making turbo lag nowhere near the problem people want to make it out to be. What will in fact be a problem, is a properly sized supercharger spending almost all of its time being spun up (at what should be) its near maximum flow. Not only will it be extremely parasitic, but the IATs will be terrible.
Your money, your content, your car, I'm all for it regardless.. however, the best way to skin this cat is with a knife, not a spoon.
Go fuck yourself
well that escalated quickly
This makes me want to see how well it works now, if its shit or breaks then I'm sure a turbo will will come next.
As a supercharged car owner I agree. Without an air to air intercooler and a lot of weight a turbo could be achieved easily and he could make a phenolithic spacer to keep engine from eating the heat soak
Plus if you’re going to run a turbo you need to run a oil pump anyway so you can run a oil cooler no problem
Great video update. Really impressed with your craftsmanship, video work, and the fact that you read every single comment. I'm a few days late, but, keep up the good work. Really looking forward to the supercharger video.
Thank you very much!
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
Love this series. You take a boring, ugly and underpowered vehicle even more underpowered. You manage to make that very fun to watch. Now, I'll get to watching this episode 😃
It's the science, ingenuity, and how he's polishing a turd that got me hooked
@@beanseff CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
Under the circumstances, it seems that forcing air flow by the fins on the cylinder is the best solution.
Can't wait for the injector episode.
Thank you I've been thinking about doing this for about a year and have never found a video about it
Love that Michigan 212cc license plate
I would recommend a pulse pump instead of electric and maybe a way to bypass the cooler when it’s not under load or perhaps on a thermal switch. You want to be able to cook off any condensation in the oil.
A great start to my Friday. Thanks for the excellent video!
Try running the engine a tad richer and see how it affects the temperatures.
Wrap the Cylinder Jug (between the fins) in copper tubing and run water or antifreeze through a radiator, along with running the oil cooler!
I don't know how many times I've run into stuff on UA-cam that really, really brightens my day, but your videos are one (is one?). They're helping me forget about at least some of the root canal that I went through yesterday. Don't know why it still hurts, but I blame Dental ineptitude. It's not my fault that brushing my teeth has made me gag since I was in short pants. Once again. thanks for the videos!
You could try a higher volume pump also, if the oil returned into the valve cover it would circulate the cool oil through the head even though it does not have a pressurized system.
What about pumping the oil from the cooler into the valve cover? it would help cool the head down as the oil runs back down into the bottom end... just have to watch that the bottom end doesn't get starved of oil... you could also add a ram air duct that directs cool air directly to the recoil area? Then add additional shrouding and ductwork to direct the hot air towards the back of the hood where a vent could be cut to allow it to escape? Are you planning to experiment with water/meth injection?
Regardless of what you do, keep it up
Yep ! Pump the cool oil to the hottest spot. The cylinder head/valve cover. So it can actually gain temp and thus cool the head.
Also a reservoir to avoid air pockets would improve the cooling.
And a shroud around the oil cooler itself.
Another plus is more oil keeps wear down on top end and less valve lash changes too.
@@Ronin8451 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
I think it would have made a huge difference to the head if you fed the oil back through the valve cover.
I think you are right. I have ran these OHV small engines with the valve cover off before and surprisingly little oil actually gets splashed up to the valvetrain. Only downside I can think of to feeding the cooled oil back in through the valve cover is running the oil over the hot cylinder head may increase oil temp a bit, but with a good cooler that shouldn't be a problem.
@@averyalexander2303 that's the point though, and that cooler is massively oversized, nothing it can't handle. It'd also help to run motorcycle oil.
@@octane613 I agree. I doubt that motorcycle oil would help much though. The main reason it is used is for its wet clutch compatibility, which isn't a concern in this application.
@@averyalexander2303 well I suggest it because oil for Harleys and air cooled bikes holds up better under higher Temps than oil for cars.
Another great video, very nicely done, I like your test rig, still can't wait to see the lil roots supercharger installed on the car, as far as a charging system, if you didn't want to lose the starter to add an alternator instead of an alternator get a starter generator and it will do both jobs, I don't think it would be hard for you to retrofit that into the system
Like your methodical and scientific approach. I think most people fail with their EFI conversions due to the lack of sensible plan. I am surprised you didn't take a baseline reading of the crankcase vacuum and pressure. This may help to determine if you are actually causing excessive crankcase pressure when running the oil pump that maybe affecting the cylinder head temperature. In addition, how come you didn't read the spark plug for temperature changes? Maybe Colortune to get an idea of your combustion temperature? It would be great if you made some type of volocity stack where you removed the pull starter to cool down the engine. Look forward to your next episode.
Nothing to add, just having fun. Nice that you are building the HEMI to last, hopefully we will get a daily driver review when the dust has settled. lol.
One of the few channels I actually have notifications turned on
I can remember which brand of aftermarket flywheel it is maybe arc or pvl but it has such a greater cooling effect they recommend blocking off someof the passages in the recoil cover to maintain the correct engine temps so if you buy one of those you wont have to worry about the oil cooler set up. You need to watch the arc racing tech videos here on youtube.. they go over the optimal temps these engines like... i like to idea of adding the oil cooler but at speeds in the vehicle i dont think you'll need it with the aftermarket flywheel. Keep up the good work! 👍
Throw one of those flexible solar panels on the roof or hood to power your electrical needs. No more parasitic loss from the generator/coil = more power to the wheels!
I would like to see water injection. Thanks having a lot of fun with this series
Water injection will allow more ignition timing advance and will cool the intake air. This would be very beneficial when forced induction is added. It is like running a higher octane fuel, and it steam cleans the combustion chamber as well.
Live in an area of 100 plus tems. Installed a small trans oil cooler on my 9,000wt gen set , mounted it lower than the drain pug at a 10 degree angle, removed the engine shut down switch installed a fitting that I plugged and then drilled with a 1/16 drill, ran the oil hose to the higher ditto g on the cooler. Installed a fitting in place of the drain plug and ran the host from it,,, to the lower trans cooler fitting.
This is so much fun. You are doing all the goofy stuff I have considered doing myself... along with all the data collection. Very neat. Thanks for taking all the time, which is most certainly significant. Then capturing and editing all the video on top... BIG THANKS!
With your shop skills, you could probably remake the manual starter with some strap steel and forgo all the restrictive surrounding metal.
It's nice to see someone give numbers for something I've done on a gocart in the past.. we used a small Harley oil cooler on one of our 301cc predator buggy carts on top of removing the recoil pull system.. which i though based off long term running had done a good job, but i never really measured it
This is golden standard of educational video 📹👌👍❤️📺
CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
So wonderful to see! Also, it was a bit of fun with the IKEA reference, since I am born and raised in Sweden, which is were that absolute crap comes from. It took IKEA many years before they started including manuals in their products, so it wasn't actually that easy in the beginning. Well, thank you for that gratuitous piece of information Alicia.
Seriously, I truly enjoy your work. Everything is well done. The vioce, the camera angles and the editing.
Be well and stay healthy.
Alicia.
Those spiders are called harvestmen. Definitely not a creepy name at all.
Thanks for the video when I was a kid we made a wagon that had a eight horse motor alternator AC compressor off a 69 Cutlass you could pump tires up and jump cars off called it my junkyard buddy
Fantastic yay the knomes are back with a dastly plan
thing are getting out of hand.... the gnomes have pushed it too far this time.
All hale the mighty cube of knowledge
Return the oil to the valve cover. It will aid in cooling the head slightly but mainly to get rid of some of the bubbles as to not airrate the oil.
copper pipe through cooling fins on head, have oil come though head pipes after making it though the sump first. Also add a reservoir to eliminate bubbles before radiator since the engine has a lot of oil agitation.
CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
I love your load bank! It's actually relatively similar to compact mobile load banks I work with apart from the ceramic load resistors for elements. Nonetheless for a mostly stationary unit I applaud the simplicity and effectiveness.
Thanks !
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
Run the return oil into the valve cover so it can cool the head more.
Your elaborate jokes and kinda weird but I really like them. Awesome video!
". . . And I'm a good neighbor but not that good" lol
Them Gnomes are at it again... May want to check that fan nut to see if they haven't loosened it.
About the Pull start issue. Maybe a extentsion part to put it further away (provided there's space for it and it somehow accomidates the Supercharger setup?)
Or mount the pull start on the other side or a belt driven pull start thing? ( a pully, bearing, pull start assembly all in one like that alternator)
Thanks for doing the things we dream to do and don't have the time to try. Best wishes to you.
Check cooling air intake temperatures while driving. It maybe higher then ambient in which case you could duct air to the engine cooling fan shroud making a cool air intake. If the engine is recirculating heated air the engine will run hotter to overheat.
The cabin air intake is located in the higher air pressure zone where the windscreen and hood meet (that’s why heater coils and AC evap coils are in the firewall) of most cars. If this car had AC before getting re-engined, there will be a condensate drain lower on the firewall you can source cooler air to direct over oil cooler/cyl head from…if you can’t plumb a duct from the front of the car. A bigger front duct would be more effective. And get those bubbles out of the oil line!
A swirl pot (purge tank) is the way to eliminate air bubbles in the lines. Oil cooling has a huge potential in adding to the longevity and reliability of the Predator, the concept still needs some work. Thanks for this very interesting video, more please!
You mentioned you don’t have power to spare, I saw a video recently about using wind turbines on the front of a vehicle which ended up generating more power more efficiently than a traditional alternator. It seems as if that would fit well with the idea of this series and optimizing everything. May be worth looking into. Great series!
Why not charge with a solar panel.
A flexible 100 watt solar panel would contour to the curves of the car thus not adding any measure able drag. That 100 watt solar panel will put out about 5 amps of current, which is not much but it is 5 amps. If he replaced the battery that he is currently using with lithium batteries, and replace every light in the car with LED bulbs then it would help a lot. The lithium battery of the same weight as his current battery would also be at least twice the capacity so it would last a LOT longer in the dark.
I love when I see you uploaded a new video. Very detailed and informative!!
Gotta keep us updated weekly
Keep up the good work! Love all your vids so far. 👍👍
12:28- odd question, but were you able to run the same quantity of oil in the engine as before? I ask because having just more physical capacity would lower temps slightly.
Initially, more oil would show more cooling, however the oil would reach a saturation temperature and not shed any more heat had he run a closed loop tank-to-engine set-up without the cooler, using the same quantity of oil. That might be an idea for another test, though.
My intuition tells me that changing the quantity alone would only affect thermal mass, i.e. the time it takes to get up to a stable temp, but it's hard to tell because it's being run through an oil cooler
I had to add additional oil to bring the level back to normal.
@@robotcantina8957 but there still might not have been enough- look at those bubbles coming out the line to the cooler
@@gregorykusiak5424 I think he mentioned it's a pulse-type pump, so I think that's normal
You could get into the lubrication system and use the pump from the engine to pump the oil through the cooler then into the various parts of the motor. If the motor you are using has an oil filter, you can do a sandwich and pull from there and pump cooled oil to all the parts of the engine. (you're not talking about high pressures on an engine like this). You would just need to be sure to prime the system adequately before going past idle to make sure you have oil pressure on the initial fill... after that it should stay full of oil.
Also I noticed your engine RPM varied from 3400 something all the way to 3600 something... that will change a few things too.
If the project really continues, I bet we'll see water-cooled head like in Porsche 959. lol
At some point I guess so. The engine in the 959 was developed for racing from a completely air-cooled unit, and gained water cooled heads along the way as power increased. No matter how much R and D you throw at it, you can't reliably extract more power from an air-cooled engine. For the type of flat-6 boxer porsches run, the cross over from air cooled to water cooled with porsches seems to be about 50kW per cylinder and/or 90 kW per liter.
"We're going to add an oil cooler, but the engine has no oil pump...."
Great Scott!!
Brilliant video thank you
Oil cooler is something I swear by. My brother in law had a 4x4 exactly like mine. I had a oil cooler and he didn’t, my vehicle always ran cool in Baja.
I fly a paramotor with the 212 and did exactly this with an electric fuel pump and oil cooler it works great. I drilled a hole above the exhaust valve for return oil to help cool it and it was fine but the casting is very thin there.
Nice.. Thanks for the tip!
@@robotcantina8957 CONGRATULATIONS ROBOT CANTINA... 104k subscribers.... JIMBO you provide the fun
and entertainment that viewers enjoy👍👍👍!
8" duct ram air from home depot to pull start opening ,, maybe intercooler . nothing to fancy lol love the vids !!!
In addition to squirting the cooled oil onto the piston skirt a small hole drilled through the skirt will allow more heat transfer away from the cylinder.
VW Beetle. 50s, 60s, 70s. Had all that sorted out. Look to that for inspiration.
I drilled a hole into the side of the block a little above the drainplug, put a steel straw in and JB welded it to seal, cut it off sticking out the block and ran a line from that to the old governor control arm hole. Should be decent lubrication dropping right on top of the crank
You will want to watch that you don't cool the oil too much as the viscosity modifiers only kick in at higher temperatures (not that a single cylinder engine really gets all that hot).. It would be interesting to get the temp VS viscosity curves for the oil you are running and figure out the optimal oil temp to keep the viscosity in the correct range to keep both the bearing surfaces lubed and the pistons sealing and adjust the oil flow rate through the cooler to maintain this temperature
I loved that you have a can of whoop ass!
When the car is moving the cooler will be more efficient. Try using thinner oil. Put a thermostat on the engine to duty cycle the oil flow for less electrical load. Maybe a check valve will keep air out of the oil line. Maybe funnel air from outside the engine bay to the engine head with a tube. E85 will probably burn hotter.
I hear the cast PLV flywheels for the predator engines move alot of air. And you tune the temperature of the engine by covering the holes in the recoil starter with tape to increase the temperature.
Out of curiosity, why would you want the engine to run warmer? As long as the oil hits 70-80c can you have too much cooling?
@@ASAWProductions I'm not 100 percent sure but I think the fuel might burn better at a specific temperature. Probably not something I would tune but some racers trying to squeaker every last bit of power out of there engine would probably look more into it.
Use a 6 in blower fan and ducting onto the engines fins.
Flexible copper tubing wrapped around the engine with coolant.