Hello. I did the same job on my Seat Toledo mk2 yesterday. To remove the white plastic pin holding the glass, I inserted a screw like you and pulled it, but it did not come out. Then I lightly oiled it with WD40. I hit the small pin in the middle with the same diameter with a socket bit and dropped it into the door. then the other one. It was very simple. Frankly, you had a harder time than me. Especially at 7:50 minutes. 😄 Take care of yourself.
Hi, After my driver’s rear door locking mechanism had deadlocked it’s self-shut on my mk4 Golf I found your collection of Jetta videos tutorials. They were so helpful with the removal of the window regulator and other little parts especially the spreader pin and plug (that needed so much forced to remove). I didn’t think it was going to be so involved just to get the locking mechanism out. It made the front passenger locking mechanism look easy compared to the rear. In total it took about 7hr to finish the job, but so glad it’s done now. A garage would have charge a small fortune!
Great video and perhaps the only one explaining how to fix the rear door. Agree with your assessment - these jokers are a pain to fix! Thanks for doing your homework and then posting - I used your method for removing the two piece window plug and it worked, no broken window. Love your easygoing style as well.
Hi, I used a wood screw for pulling out the inner spreader. It cuts a nice thread in it and causes less pressure. Because I did not have a 8 mm woodscrew for the outer spreader, I used two screws, set in parallel beside each other. Worked fine. Love your videos, they are great. Much to learn. Thank you.
Thank you for your series of videos, I was able to replace the lock module on my daughters Jetta after watching them. I found it easier to remove the regulator and lock module as one and did not undo the harness. Thanks again.
Just dropped by to say your video was really useful, saved me near $450. Very clear, well produced and I liked how you gave a clear shot of the parts removed. Also liked the colour matching dog! All the best! :)
Thank you very much Aengus! The clear shots came from my wife who does all the filming for this channel. Glad to hear that you save some money too. And the dog is always there to help....LOL. Take care Aengus!
+eekypoo That's how the service manual says to do it. If I had to do it all over again, I would just drill it out which would be a lot easier. The spreader plug and pin is only about $3.00.
@@stuzman52 8 years after tje orig comment, I interject; I was told the plug/pin is no longer $3, and is in fact not even findable. Reinsertion was completed using a C-clamp since the glass was on the bench, after the pin was inserted part way. Where as I am confused between plug and pin, The big piece is easy. The tiny, inner part is very, very tight. Getting is out using a bolt seems good, but if they are flush, how does one get the bolt to grab? I'm not asking. Putting it back part way is easy, then I used a C-clamp to get it flush. Pushing or banging has a risk IMO. Getting is out also depends if you want to save it or not. Drilling and melting are obvious it is lost. Pushing might seem impossible. I learned a lot, from here, but also on my own.Getting the H column back IN is inmpossible if the glass and gasket are in contact with the H-column. HInt, angle it to slide / get it up through that thick rubber gasket.
@@cliffontheroad Thanks for the comment Cliff and it doesn't surprise me at all that you can't get this pin anymore. Maybe you have to buy the entire window now 😁
The spreader pin is simple, quick and easy to remove if you invest in a cheap slide hammer. Something like a Silverline slide hammer will set you back around £12/$15 with a 5mm x 100mm bolt fitted to the end (thread type isn't important). I did it this way and it literally took a single slide of the hammer weight to remove the spreader pin, no pain and no time wasting involved. Yes it's a bit more to spend but if you're replacing a faulty lock etc. you don't really want to waste loads of time trying to remove a single nylon component. Remember the spreader pin and plug will most likely have been sat snugly together for several years and they will not want to be easily separated, and an impulse force (or shock loading) is what is required to overcome the inherent friction between the two nylon components. Once the pin is removed i found it much simpler to remove the spreader by either using a pan-head screw or a box/common nail, just push the screw/nail in so it hooks around the back of the spreader plug and pull forward. Using an 8mm bolt is awkward on certain VAG derivatives such as the Seat Leon 1M and doing it this way is considerably easier. Also, using an 8mm bolt will cause the spreader to do its job and spread within the glass, making it more difficult to remove than when using a nail or screw. Finally, when putting it all back together, replace the foam seal on the carrier with 5/6mm butyl strip for a perfect watertight seal, and refit the spreader pin and plug to the window glass before refitting the carrier assembly to the door as they will click into place with the lifter automatically the first time you raise the window mechanism.
This is an excellent series of videos, however, there is a much easier way of removing the spreader plug and pin, just use a small screwdriver to push the spreader pin out, then use a larger screwdriver to push the spreader plug out, they will push out with a few gentle taps and drop inside the door but since you are removing the inner panel, you can retrieve them easily. Also, reinserting them is easy, fit a flat blade screwdriver into the plug and use it to push the plug partially into the hole, then fit a smaller screwdriver into the pin and use it to push the pin into the partially into the plug, you should now be able to use the larger screwdriver to push the pin and plug back into the hole properly.
Thanks si1983h for your comments as others can learn of other techniques of removing and installing the pin and plug. If I had to do it again, I believe I would just drill it out as another option. Thanks for the comments on the videos also.
@@stuzman52 Easier if the inner plastic pin is pushed in, not pulled out. Then the spreader plug is also pushed in. Both pin and plug fall fall down inside the door, as Si983h describes. Excellent video. Thanks.
@@MikeSmith-tq5gq 3 years after you cmnt, 9 years after the 1st/video, I was told 2 things; the pin is pushed out using something with the same diameter which will then allow the plug to be pushed through also, and if the pin/plug is ruined that I would never find a replacement part. My 2002 jetta Wagon was a small production run and the design changed after 2004 or 5 (or the wagon was no longer made.) I was elated to get the replacement glass for $100. The 163 dollar item is discontinued by VW.. I am not finished, hence I am here learning.
Fantastic !! Quite enjoy your vids and always learn something. VW seems to over engineer everything and not user friendly. I will definitely stick to my Chevy and ford LOL. Look forward to the next installment. Thanks Steve.
door module bracket was split into (you'll see in next video), I could remove the inner panel without the above mentioned. However, to put it back in, I'll have to remove all that crap. I show this in the next video. I'm going to use bolts and nuts and not plastic rivets for that bracket. What a damn piece of crappy engineering. Thanks Joe for the comments.
Thanks Steve for the comment! I really can't fault Volkswagen as it's all the manufacturers are making everything out of plastic nowadays. But I have to admit that working on a Volkswagen is not the easiest car to work on. You'll see what I mean in the next video that just got uploaded. Thanks again Steve.
For put it back again the 2 pins from the window, put the 2 at the same time, because if you put the big one first, the second one is gona pull up inside to the door again and you have to disassembly the panel again.. so BEST is to put the 2 at the same time, lie down on the ground and hit the big one (not the small one, because this is gona move to the inside and fall inside the door too) hit with a flat screwdriwer or something with a round tip, be patience and you see that is hard to put it back but slowly it gona fits back to his place; IF not, use a small grease
When getting that spreader plug out of the window, I used a mallet and a wide flat blade screwdriver to tap it out. You do have to be careful doing it that way because you could crack the glass or mash up the plug, but if youre careful about it, it can be done!
Thanks 4 posting these videos Mr. Stuzman52. I wouldn't have been able 2 change the lock in my Passat 2day if it wasn't 4 u. The cable-connector on my lock wasn't as easy as yours 2 remove BTW but I got it by forcing a small flat-head screwdriver down inside the connector and then I was able 2 slide it off. Also I used a vice-grips to force the spreader back into the window grommet.
Thank you Patrick for your comments and for liking the videos. I'm glad that I was able to help you out. Also, thank you on how you tackled your own car as this will help others who have the Passat. As for the spreader plug, if I had to remove that plug again, I would just drill it out and it wouldn't be a pain in the rear to remove. I was just following the factory manual and as you saw, it wasn't the easiest thing to take out. I believe I mentioned in the video to just drill it out. Thanks again Patrick for you taking the time to drop by and for mentioning a few words. Take care...
stuzman52 I didn't have any bother pulling out spreader plug from my car like you did. Maybe it's because I didn't screw the bolt in as far as you did- only maybe 3 or 4 mm. Plus you couldn't get your full weight behind it as you were thoughtfully leaving room for your v capable camera operator to provide us with a good view of your work. Can I also say that the way you methodically and patiently tackled this job inspired me to do the same with mine with 100% success. Thanks again Sir. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much Patrick as it sounded like your spreader plug wasn't too much of an issue. Yes, you're right that I was in an awkward position and trying to keep the camera in view. Make me very happy to hear that your repair came out with 100% success. Good work Patrick!
Don't need to remove those rivets before remove the carrier panel, I remove the carrier panel with the door lock all at once, first you need to remove the short window's rail that fit front of the door lock, then remove the lock bolts and then you can remove the all out a little to easy remove the cable that from the outer handle to the door lock ,then can out at once. after out ,then can remove and install the rivets easy., front door is easy because no rail there,, Hope this help!
Yup Joe, plastic, plastic and more plastic. You know, I really wasn't surprised to see those plastic rivets. And as you know, we have a heavy door module being supported by what. Yup, more plastic....smiling. Thanks for the comment Joe.
I should go trough the same procedure on the rear left door because the microswitches in the door lock are gone and it causes the central locking to go crazy.
Where could I see a video or two on how to install the steel cables to the power window regulator and how to attach them to the two wheels on the rail and the main reel attached to the motor? I'm struggling here to put it back together the right way? Help!!
Don't use this guy's pulling method to remove the "spreaders". I cracked the window like this! I managed to pull out the inner one using his method, but the outer one ("spreader plug") was holding there very firmly. I think I use the correct bolt (8mm). I started from thinner bolts, but that wasn't enough. When I pulled it just released from the plug. So I screw in the correct bolt and tried gently. Nothing...so more force...nothing...and then the window cracked. The window is fragile and might not sustain the tension at some point if you're not lucky as this guy...my case. Glass shards everywhere, still pulling some from my ass. My serviceman told me I'm stupid because you supposed to carefully push the "spreaders" inside the door (you'll find them later). Like using a screwdriver (or some stick) and hammer. Carefully, gently! btw: It wasn't that easy for me, because I have to do all that with closed door. My lock is broken, stucked in locked position.
Yes, it is a nightmare for sure. I'm getting ready to upload the next video and I go over the service manual procedures. What a joke that thing is as you'll see! Also, you want believe what you're supposed to do to get that inner door panel out. I'll give you a quick outline: remove the cylinder lock, remove the inner slide plate, remove the upper guide rail, remove the lower guide rail, remove the window glass and then you can remove the inner door panel. Since my PLASTIC rivets and cont)...
Karl Knudson Yes Karl, that sounds like a good idea also. In hindsight, I would just drill it out since the spreader plug and pin is only about $3.00. Sometimes following the service manual doesn't always have the best solution.
+Sadik Bulbul Here are two videos from other folks that may help you out.ua-cam.com/video/Fy3KbKkAZZ0/v-deo.html And here is another one....ua-cam.com/video/YGyb9aSoIFA/v-deo.html
My comment is related to a 2001 Passat issue but I think you can help me. My passeneger side carpet is wet and I do not see the usual leak issue from the battery tray/plenum seal in the engine bay. IN poking around the internet I have seen some that have figured out that an issue is the seal at the bottom assembly in the door. In watching your video I see the black seal around the carrier when you removed it. SOme guys have just run silicone around the bottom of the carier from the outside without removing the carrier and puttin a whole new seal in. My question is: Is it normal for water to get inside the door panel and is this seal a stop all for that? It appears to me that the seal is up higher than the bottom of the door cavity and if water is getting up as high as that seal there muts be a drain clogged? Can you provide any insight into how this drainage system works in these doors and is the bottom of that carrier seal and end all for water in the door panel or is a clogged drain more an issue? Thank you
Hi Bobby. I don't recall seeing any place any the door for any drainage so I suspect that you have a seal problem around the door. When I pulled the door carrier off, there wasn't any water at all in the bottom of the door. I would suspect that the seal that runs across the window would be blocking the water from coming down the window. You could take a closer look at that. Also you can inspect your seal that runs around the door to see if there is any obvious damage going on there. For this seal, I would suspect that you would hear wind noise also. Hope that helps.
Great videos sir. They helped me out a lot, so thank you. One question though, how did you get the spreader plug and spreader pin back into the window?
4dangler It's in a later video of this series of where I put everything back together. I can't remember which video it's located in though. Basically, with the window out of the car, the spreader plug is squeezed together with a C-clamp. Then lower the window into the door and the plug will snap into the other half of the plug which is in the door carrier.
Why did you screw a screw in the window bit? You could just press it against you and pick it up after youve got of the panel. Would’ve saved you time and energy
Julio Oliver Good for you Julio. I didn't have any doubts at all that you couldn't do it. Glad to hear that you're back up and running and that the videos helped you out.
If you are removing the inner door carrier for the purpose of replacing the door lock module, why would you have to remove the three plastic plugs that hold the plastic piece attached to the door lock module? It seems like you just need to remove the three bolts that hold it to the door and of course the piece that connect the module to the handle and remove the entire module with the door carrier.
Yes, that is correct John, but if I remember correctly some of the plastic plugs were not there in the beginning and was behind the door panel. I'm sure that someone else was here before me. And the same holds true for the front door panels also. You would remove the entire panel with the door lock module still attached to the panel. Thanks for the comment!
My Dear Crystal Believers..It is proof that Evoluted-Society MUST be able to use HIGH LEVEL LANGUAGE..Can you imagine what should I say to Un-educated society like Indonesia if I will explain about Rear-Inner-Door-Panel ??..to point out at one certain detail spesific items then we must use 4 degree of sentences..Please explain that in Indonesian language or Javanese Language??..We can analyze degree of Evolution from certain civilization by examining their sentences richness..so Sanskrit Language and Hanzi Characters are THE BEST in this universe..
Hello. I did the same job on my Seat Toledo mk2 yesterday. To remove the white plastic pin holding the glass, I inserted a screw like you and pulled it, but it did not come out. Then I lightly oiled it with WD40. I hit the small pin in the middle with the same diameter with a socket bit and dropped it into the door. then the other one. It was very simple. Frankly, you had a harder time than me. Especially at 7:50 minutes. 😄 Take care of yourself.
I was a mechanic for 6 years...5 years ago. Your videos are a helpful reminder of how to do things I've since forgotten! Thanks!
Thank you Jamie. I appreciate your comments and glad you liked the videos.
I'm glad to know that im not the only one who makes those kind of noises when trying to remove near impossible components from my vehicle!
Yeah, funny how we make all those noises to get a job done :)
Hi,
After my driver’s rear door locking mechanism had deadlocked it’s self-shut on my mk4 Golf I found your collection of Jetta videos tutorials. They were so helpful with the removal of the window regulator and other little parts especially the spreader pin and plug (that needed so much forced to remove). I didn’t think it was going to be so involved just to get the locking mechanism out. It made the front passenger locking mechanism look easy compared to the rear. In total it took about 7hr to finish the job, but so glad it’s done now. A garage would have charge a small fortune!
Glad to help you out Roguey and glad to hear that you got it fixed. Thanks for the comment.
Great video and perhaps the only one explaining how to fix the rear door. Agree with your assessment - these jokers are a pain to fix! Thanks for doing your homework and then posting - I used your method for removing the two piece window plug and it worked, no broken window. Love your easygoing style as well.
Thank you Zach and glad you got your window fixed!
in 5:25 those two pins you just need to punch all in, it will just drop to inside.
Thanks for the comment Alan!
Hi,
I used a wood screw for pulling out the inner spreader. It cuts a nice thread in it and causes less pressure. Because I did not have a 8 mm woodscrew for the outer spreader, I used two screws, set in parallel beside each other. Worked fine.
Love your videos, they are great. Much to learn. Thank you.
Great information and will surely help others out there. Thanks for dropping in and leaving a comment!
Thank you for your series of videos, I was able to replace the lock module on my daughters Jetta after watching them. I found it easier to remove the regulator and lock module as one and did not undo the harness. Thanks again.
C Muir Hi C Muir. Glad to hear that the videos helped you out, and that you were able to get your daughter's car fixed. Take care...
Just dropped by to say your video was really useful, saved me near $450. Very clear, well produced and I liked how you gave a clear shot of the parts removed.
Also liked the colour matching dog! All the best! :)
Thank you very much Aengus! The clear shots came from my wife who does all the filming for this channel. Glad to hear that you save some money too. And the dog is always there to help....LOL. Take care Aengus!
Very helpful video. Seeing you struggle to remove the pin (as I have been on my Seat Ibiza) shows me I'm attempting to do the right thing. Many thanks
+eekypoo That's how the service manual says to do it. If I had to do it all over again, I would just drill it out which would be a lot easier. The spreader plug and pin is only about $3.00.
@@stuzman52 8 years after tje orig comment, I interject; I was told the plug/pin is no longer $3, and is in fact not even findable. Reinsertion was completed using a C-clamp since the glass was on the bench, after the pin was inserted part way. Where as I am confused between plug and pin, The big piece is easy. The tiny, inner part is very, very tight. Getting is out using a bolt seems good, but if they are flush, how does one get the bolt to grab? I'm not asking. Putting it back part way is easy, then I used a C-clamp to get it flush. Pushing or banging has a risk IMO. Getting is out also depends if you want to save it or not. Drilling and melting are obvious it is lost. Pushing might seem impossible. I learned a lot, from here, but also on my own.Getting the H column back IN is inmpossible if the glass and gasket are in contact with the H-column. HInt, angle it to slide / get it up through that thick rubber gasket.
@@cliffontheroad Thanks for the comment Cliff and it doesn't surprise me at all that you can't get this pin anymore. Maybe you have to buy the entire window now 😁
@@cliffontheroad There's probably quite a few ways to remove that stubborn pin. Have a great day!
Thanks a million!!! Was suck thinking for 2 hours figuring out how to take is out you helped alot!!
You're quite welcomed No27...Glad to help you out and I'm sure you feel better now that you got it figured out (smiling)...
The spreader pin is simple, quick and easy to remove if you invest in a cheap slide hammer. Something like a Silverline slide hammer will set you back around £12/$15 with a 5mm x 100mm bolt fitted to the end (thread type isn't important). I did it this way and it literally took a single slide of the hammer weight to remove the spreader pin, no pain and no time wasting involved. Yes it's a bit more to spend but if you're replacing a faulty lock etc. you don't really want to waste loads of time trying to remove a single nylon component.
Remember the spreader pin and plug will most likely have been sat snugly together for several years and they will not want to be easily separated, and an impulse force (or shock loading) is what is required to overcome the inherent friction between the two nylon components.
Once the pin is removed i found it much simpler to remove the spreader by either using a pan-head screw or a box/common nail, just push the screw/nail in so it hooks around the back of the spreader plug and pull forward. Using an 8mm bolt is awkward on certain VAG derivatives such as the Seat Leon 1M and doing it this way is considerably easier. Also, using an 8mm bolt will cause the spreader to do its job and spread within the glass, making it more difficult to remove than when using a nail or screw.
Finally, when putting it all back together, replace the foam seal on the carrier with 5/6mm butyl strip for a perfect watertight seal, and refit the spreader pin and plug to the window glass before refitting the carrier assembly to the door as they will click into place with the lifter automatically the first time you raise the window mechanism.
All good advice Scunner and will help other folks who see your comment. Thanks for dropping in and sharing your thoughts.
You are THE man! Saved my life 😊👍🏻
Thank you very much falkgruener for the comment! But, I'm not 'THE' man; I'm just 'A' man. Nothing special :)
This is an excellent series of videos, however, there is a much easier way of removing the spreader plug and pin, just use a small screwdriver to push the spreader pin out, then use a larger screwdriver to push the spreader plug out, they will push out with a few gentle taps and drop inside the door but since you are removing the inner panel, you can retrieve them easily. Also, reinserting them is easy, fit a flat blade screwdriver into the plug and use it to push the plug partially into the hole, then fit a smaller screwdriver into the pin and use it to push the pin into the partially into the plug, you should now be able to use the larger screwdriver to push the pin and plug back into the hole properly.
Thanks si1983h for your comments as others can learn of other techniques of removing and installing the pin and plug. If I had to do it again, I believe I would just drill it out as another option. Thanks for the comments on the videos also.
@@stuzman52 Easier if the inner plastic pin is pushed in, not pulled out. Then the spreader plug is also pushed in. Both pin and plug fall fall down inside the door, as Si983h describes. Excellent video. Thanks.
@@MikeSmith-tq5gq Thanks Mike! If I had to do it over again, it wouldn't be what the service manual suggested.
Thank you so much, saved me such a big headache (so far haha, not totally done)
@@MikeSmith-tq5gq 3 years after you cmnt, 9 years after the 1st/video, I was told 2 things; the pin is pushed out using something with the same diameter which will then allow the plug to be pushed through also, and if the pin/plug is ruined that I would never find a replacement part. My 2002 jetta Wagon was a small production run and the design changed after 2004 or 5 (or the wagon was no longer made.) I was elated to get the replacement glass for $100. The 163 dollar item is discontinued by VW.. I am not finished, hence I am here learning.
Fantastic !! Quite enjoy your vids and always learn something. VW seems to over engineer everything and not user friendly. I will definitely stick to my Chevy and ford LOL. Look forward to the next installment. Thanks Steve.
door module bracket was split into (you'll see in next video), I could remove the inner panel without the above mentioned. However, to put it back in, I'll have to remove all that crap. I show this in the next video. I'm going to use bolts and nuts and not plastic rivets for that bracket. What a damn piece of crappy engineering. Thanks Joe for the comments.
Thanks Steve for the comment! I really can't fault Volkswagen as it's all the manufacturers are making everything out of plastic nowadays. But I have to admit that working on a Volkswagen is not the easiest car to work on. You'll see what I mean in the next video that just got uploaded. Thanks again Steve.
For put it back again the 2 pins from the window, put the 2 at the same time, because if you put the big one first, the second one is gona pull up inside to the door again and you have to disassembly the panel again.. so BEST is to put the 2 at the same time, lie down on the ground and hit the big one (not the small one, because this is gona move to the inside and fall inside the door too) hit with a flat screwdriwer or something with a round tip, be patience and you see that is hard to put it back but slowly it gona fits back to his place; IF not, use a small grease
Thanks for the comment!
When getting that spreader plug out of the window, I used a mallet and a wide flat blade screwdriver to tap it out. You do have to be careful doing it that way because you could crack the glass or mash up the plug, but if youre careful about it, it can be done!
Thanks for the tip Chris as I'm sure it would be helpful to other viewers out there. Have a great evening!
VERY VERY GOOD WORKER!!!!! MAN
Glad you liked the video Vander.
Thanks 4 posting these videos Mr. Stuzman52. I wouldn't have been able 2 change the lock in my Passat 2day if it wasn't 4 u.
The cable-connector on my lock wasn't as easy as yours 2 remove BTW but I got it by forcing a small flat-head screwdriver down inside the connector and then I was able 2 slide it off.
Also I used a vice-grips to force the spreader back into the window grommet.
Thank you Patrick for your comments and for liking the videos. I'm glad that I was able to help you out. Also, thank you on how you tackled your own car as this will help others who have the Passat. As for the spreader plug, if I had to remove that plug again, I would just drill it out and it wouldn't be a pain in the rear to remove. I was just following the factory manual and as you saw, it wasn't the easiest thing to take out. I believe I mentioned in the video to just drill it out. Thanks again Patrick for you taking the time to drop by and for mentioning a few words. Take care...
stuzman52 I didn't have any bother pulling out spreader plug from my car like you did. Maybe it's because I didn't screw the bolt in as far as you did- only maybe 3 or 4 mm. Plus you couldn't get your full weight behind it as you were thoughtfully leaving room for your v capable camera operator to provide us with a good view of your work.
Can I also say that the way you methodically and patiently tackled this job inspired me to do the same with mine with 100% success. Thanks again Sir. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much Patrick as it sounded like your spreader plug wasn't too much of an issue. Yes, you're right that I was in an awkward position and trying to keep the camera in view. Make me very happy to hear that your repair came out with 100% success. Good work Patrick!
Thank you very much, the video helped me. Was funny plug removal... :)
Don't need to remove those rivets before remove the carrier panel, I remove the carrier panel with the door lock all at once, first you need to remove the short window's rail that fit front of the door lock, then remove the lock bolts and then you can remove the all out a little to easy remove the cable that from the outer handle to the door lock ,then can out at once.
after out ,then can remove and install the rivets easy., front door is easy because no rail there,, Hope this help!
Yup Joe, plastic, plastic and more plastic. You know, I really wasn't surprised to see those plastic rivets. And as you know, we have a heavy door module being supported by what. Yup, more plastic....smiling. Thanks for the comment Joe.
I should go trough the same procedure on the rear left door because the microswitches in the door lock are gone and it causes the central locking to go crazy.
I'm sure that you'll be able to handle it Radostin and you'll get your locks working again.
great tutorial, many thanx
You're quite welcome jovo!
bravissimo utile anche per passat 2004 ,pari uguali.
diabolicusweb Grazie per aver visitato e lasciando un commento .
Where could I see a video or two on how to install the steel cables to the power window regulator and how to attach them to the two wheels on the rail and the main reel attached to the motor? I'm struggling here to put it back together the right way? Help!!
+Go Green How about do a google search?
Don't use this guy's pulling method to remove the "spreaders". I cracked the window like this!
I managed to pull out the inner one using his method, but the outer one ("spreader plug") was holding there very firmly. I think I use the correct bolt (8mm). I started from thinner bolts, but that wasn't enough. When I pulled it just released from the plug. So I screw in the correct bolt and tried gently. Nothing...so more force...nothing...and then the window cracked. The window is fragile and might not sustain the tension at some point if you're not lucky as this guy...my case. Glass shards everywhere, still pulling some from my ass.
My serviceman told me I'm stupid because you supposed to carefully push the "spreaders" inside the door (you'll find them later). Like using a screwdriver (or some stick) and hammer. Carefully, gently!
btw: It wasn't that easy for me, because I have to do all that with closed door. My lock is broken, stucked in locked position.
Yes, it is a nightmare for sure. I'm getting ready to upload the next video and I go over the service manual procedures. What a joke that thing is as you'll see! Also, you want believe what you're supposed to do to get that inner door panel out. I'll give you a quick outline: remove the cylinder lock, remove the inner slide plate, remove the upper guide rail, remove the lower guide rail, remove the window glass and then you can remove the inner door panel. Since my PLASTIC rivets and cont)...
i seen another guy use like a wood screw to remove that retsiner pin in regulator ,it worked fine first time
after that he unbolted the door skin
Karl Knudson Yes Karl, that sounds like a good idea also. In hindsight, I would just drill it out since the spreader plug and pin is only about $3.00. Sometimes following the service manual doesn't always have the best solution.
If rear doors not opening inside or out side.How can we open the panel for check mechanism?
+Sadik Bulbul Here are two videos from other folks that may help you out.ua-cam.com/video/Fy3KbKkAZZ0/v-deo.html And here is another one....ua-cam.com/video/YGyb9aSoIFA/v-deo.html
My comment is related to a 2001 Passat issue but I think you can help me.
My passeneger side carpet is wet and I do not see the usual leak issue from the battery tray/plenum seal in the engine bay. IN poking around the internet I have seen some that have figured out that an issue is the seal at the bottom assembly in the door.
In watching your video I see the black seal around the carrier when you removed it. SOme guys have just run silicone around the bottom of the carier from the outside without removing the carrier and puttin a whole new seal in.
My question is: Is it normal for water to get inside the door panel and is this seal a stop all for that? It appears to me that the seal is up higher than the bottom of the door cavity and if water is getting up as high as that seal there muts be a drain clogged?
Can you provide any insight into how this drainage system works in these doors and is the bottom of that carrier seal and end all for water in the door panel or is a clogged drain more an issue? Thank you
Hi Bobby. I don't recall seeing any place any the door for any drainage so I suspect that you have a seal problem around the door. When I pulled the door carrier off, there wasn't any water at all in the bottom of the door. I would suspect that the seal that runs across the window would be blocking the water from coming down the window. You could take a closer look at that. Also you can inspect your seal that runs around the door to see if there is any obvious damage going on there. For this seal, I would suspect that you would hear wind noise also. Hope that helps.
Really thanks !!!
You're welcome.
Great videos sir. They helped me out a lot, so thank you.
One question though, how did you get the spreader plug and spreader pin back into the window?
4dangler It's in a later video of this series of where I put everything back together. I can't remember which video it's located in though. Basically, with the window out of the car, the spreader plug is squeezed together with a C-clamp. Then lower the window into the door and the plug will snap into the other half of the plug which is in the door carrier.
Thank!!!!! A Million
How do you reinstall the plug and pin back into the regulator? I'm having difficulty reinserting them.
Hi Deejeezy. Sorry for the delay as I've been out of the country. In a later video of this series, I used a C-clamp to squeeze the two pins together.
stuzman52 Thank you.
No problem, glad to help.
CAN I USE THIS TO PUT MY WINDOW BACK IN?
Yes, if you follow the rest of the videos in this series, you will see how I remove the window and reinstall it.
same problem. I can't get the spreader pins out!
Trey Camp If I had to do this job again, I would just drill them out.
stuzman I actually just got it by putting a wood screw in it and hammering it through
Why did you screw a screw in the window bit? You could just press it against you and pick it up after youve got of the panel. Would’ve saved you time and energy
How do you install the window back ?
Hi Julio. Just keep following the videos in this series and I show it all about putting it back together, including putting the window back in.
stuzman52 at first I was scared I was going to mess things up, but thanks to your videos I'm back to driving safely in my jetta.
Julio Oliver Good for you Julio. I didn't have any doubts at all that you couldn't do it. Glad to hear that you're back up and running and that the videos helped you out.
I forgot it's for a '04 Jetta GL rear right door window
If you are removing the inner door carrier for the purpose of replacing the door lock module, why would you have to remove the three plastic plugs that hold the plastic piece attached to the door lock module?
It seems like you just need to remove the three bolts that hold it to the door and of course the piece that connect the module to the handle and remove the entire module with the door carrier.
Yes, that is correct John, but if I remember correctly some of the plastic plugs were not there in the beginning and was behind the door panel. I'm sure that someone else was here before me. And the same holds true for the front door panels also. You would remove the entire panel with the door lock module still attached to the panel. Thanks for the comment!
Yeah. Probably when the door needed new window regulator the plugs were popped off to allow the carrier to be removed.
You're probably right John :) It's been so long ago that I just can't remember all of the details :))
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hola, el vídeo no lo pueden traducir al español ???
👍👍👍👍
Thanks!