6 Sharpening Station MUST Know Facts - Woodturning
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- 6 Sharpening Station MUST Know Facts - Woodturning
When it comes to the woodturning sharpening station there are some questions I get on a regular basis that need to be addressed. Let me help you know what you need to have set up to get the best sharpened woodturning tools.
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I started my woodworking hobby some years ago with wood carving in mind so I purchased a Tormek sharpening system with an extra fine diamand wheel. The extra low speed and jigs allowed me to sharpened standard carving gouges, some weird back bent gouge, and skew chisels of all sizes. So when I eventually picked up woodturning I was already invested with Tormek. The major thing I had to adjust was purchasing a coarse diamand wheel because it would take FOREVER to reshape a turning gouge to a more usable profil. One of the biggest advantage of the diamand wheels is that they never change dimensions or shape. So with the machine all setup and a gouge in it’s jig I can just change the diamand wheel if I need a more polish edge without having to reset the machine or jig, it takes 30 seconds. Anyway as always very good video and thank you for the hard work.
Thank you, Jean-Philippe. You are spot on! All the best to you and Happy Turning!
Thanks for video. I have both the Sorby ProEdge and Wolverine System (although lately I use only the Sorby as my Wolverine System does not have a CBN wheel and I have a normal shop grinder and slow speed grinders are not available in my country)) is very happy with it. Would like to see a video where you share your view of the system.
Thank you for writing and sharing, PJ! I cover both systems thoroughly in my Tool Sharpening course. Happy Turning!
Can you tell me the angle in degrees of the leg on the varigrind and the length of stick out that you use for your 55° sweepback bowl gouge? As always enjoyed the video.
It will depend on your setup. I cover all this in the Tool Sharpening course. All the best to you and Happy Turning!
As always, Good information, Kent. When I bought my CBN wheels, I took Stuart B.'s advice and bought a 180 and a 350 wheel. What I found was that the 350 put a beautifully polished grind on the tool, but the time on that wheel heated the edge really fast, and I continued to get weak edges that required resharpening more often. Once I moved to only the 180 wheel, I got better results.
I like your analogy of how many miles of wood that gouge shapes the wood, that's really good. I too have had my sharpening tool move on me. Good advice there as well.
Let the Chips Fly!
Lowell
I've ran a 1x30 belt sander for first 2 years of me turning with a varigrind/wolverine style jig. Precisely because I didn't want to spend another 250+ dollars on a sharpening station after I got a lathe. I guess the biggest pain point was getting platform on and off between gouges, as well as occasional belt blow up. I got the whole wolverine system setup now with a slow speed grinder. It is more comfortable, having concave grind on skew and scrapers is definitely a plus. And higher grit belts wear out after 10-20 good uses, so one CBN wheel is just less hassle. As far as saving money on wheels, an advise I got is to keep the coarse wheel that grinder came with until it wears out before upgrading to the CBN wheel. A 350 CBN wheel is just coarse enough to touch the gouge in 5-10 seconds in my experience without eating to much steel.
I'm no pro by any means, but I do agree that sharp tools are EVERYTHING in the turning world. Yes, there are folks out there - even pros - who say "I've been using a high speed grinder and oxide wheels with no jigs for forty years. Those wimpy slow speed grinders, goofy jigs, and fancy CBN wheels are for sissies." For them, I say "More power to ya." For me, I'll take a quick, consistent means of sharpening any day. Oh, and a tool (or set of tools) that I find handy is the Raptor Set Up tool(s). They don't have a 55 degree tool. though. 🙂
This is a great partial introduction to sharpening. I took Kent's sharpening course and there is even more good info in that. I highly recommend it. Since taking that course and sharpening/shaping a bunch of bowl gouges, my experience is completely consistent with what Kent recommends here. I think you have to spend some time sharpening to appreciate everything that Kent says.
I've had a wheel catch before. It pretty scary. I didn't get hurt, but my bowl gouge had a notch taken out of it. It could have been much worse, too. Im very cautious while grinding the wings.
Yup, Archie, I didn't want to go to far into that, but I had that same thing happen. I wasn't paying attention and the tool drifted off the wheel. I focus ALL THE TIME now at the sharpening station. The good news, it only takes that happening once. ;) All the best to you and Happy Turning!
The sharpening jig is set to 23 degrees and locked into position for your preferred angle( 55 x 55 wing back) I took your coarse, was great.
Another great educational video from a wood turning pro. That said, im 74 and am a hobby turner. I learned on a traditional bowl gouge. A razor sharp gouge, hours and hours of practice and an expensive sharpening system yield pro results.
OR, you can buy a set of carbide turning tools and skip all the sharpening and turn bowls you can be proud of with a minimal learning curve.
Does anyone agree?
I disagree. Carbide tools are scraping tools. Traditional tools are cutting tools. I prefer the traditional tools. That being said, at the end of the day, if you put two turnings side by side, you probably can’t tell the difference between the carbide or the traditional tool turning. The other part of this would be the process itself. The enjoyment of the turning process is really important.
@@ArtHailey-ye3vx I agree and a lot of folks call carbide tools "cheating". If you are on a tight budget or elderly and want a fast start, maybe "cheating" is ok? I still have my traditional gouge, just doesn't see the action it used to.
@pinepuppy I know but i don’t sell the things i create and 15.00 may not be much, still have to ask myself buy new or eat?
I use both carbide and traditional tools all the time. They all have their use. Theres not a ‘right one’ and a ‘wrong one’, only a ‘this one’ and ‘that one’.
@@DancingFox6 the subject was about sharpening stations, not tools. I have both as well.
2 cbn wheels, 180 & 320, and diamond card and lapping fluid. I can sharp it all. Can’t buy new every time something gets dull, including the lawn mower. Thats why they made bastard files. I have friends that don’t maintain there equipment and when it breaks yell what a piece of junk they bought. Mostly because nobody showed them how to take care of stuff. My Dad grew up on a farm in eastern Oklahoma, Indian territory. If you didn’t maintain everything you had there was no money to replace it. Thank god he instilled that in me and my brothers. If it breaks we fix it. If you see a repairman’s truck at my house it’s because he’s lost and needs directions. Now go learn something dammit.
I use your 55 degree swept back on my bowl gauges and I love how they work. For consistency, I drill a 1/16 in hole thru base and extension arm of the wolverine jig and use the 2 in jig. When I am ready to sharpen a tool, just pull the extension till you see the hole and insert a 1/16 pin or a nail will do. Now I only need to basically, dress the tool, on the 180 grit cbn wheel and it is sharp and ready to cut
I use two jigs - one for spindle gouges and one for bowl gouges. I glued a piece of hard wood to my bench next to the grinder but there’s nothing special inside the depth hole. Now I have to go hunt down your pattern to see what the surprise inside should be.
Yes! Oxide wheels do break. They can break dramatically and into pieces. Anyone want to know how I know that? 😉
One point of inconsistency I have found is that the white plastic on the bearing that tightens the gouge in the Vari-grind jig deforms and causes the edges to grind differently each time the gouge is placed in the jig. I placed a mark on the plastic so that the mark always faces forward creating a more consistent edge on the gouge.
What are your thoughts on knocking off the burr? I've seen a few videos suggest it to help prolong the life of the sharp edge, and others say leave it to have maximum sharpness. If it's better in your opinion to remove it, would you recommend rolling it inward towards the flute or outward towards the bevel?
@pinepuppy carbide needs sharpening as well. Not as often as HSS, but still it gets dull. Have to use diamond card and lapping fluid.
@@MikeM-sc4tx yes, they get dull, but you can easily rotate the cutter to get a fresh edge x4. If you only turn occasionally, they last quite awhile and are only $15 to replace.
That is correct, Mike. And that too is covered in my Tool Sharpening course. Happy Turning!
@@TurnAWoodBowlhi Kent...just wanted to let you know I couldn't get the link to your tool sharpening course to open. I'm sure it's a great course, like all your others.
Thanks for the info about the CBN wheel versus oxide. Very helpful.
Thank you for another exceptional presentation on tools for turning.
Kent, at the time I began wood turning, I saw a demo by Wood Turners Wonders - displaying the Kodiak sharpening system.
I bought the system and much to my dismay I cannot find any local wood turners who also have this system and can discuss some issues I have with the swivel head tool holder.
Have you ever used or evaluated the Kodiak system ? If so ?
Would you have any pointers that might assist me in a favorable results in sharpening?
Thanks again for you continuing contribution to turning.
I have this also. Adjusting the tension on the bolts where the parts pivot is helpful to allow smooth movement. Also, I decided to turn the base around so the wheels grind up away from the tool, this is less grabby especially when sharpening the bottom feeder gouges with a large bevel angle.
Im a little stunned by those informations. Im using a 6 inch 80 cbn wheel on a regular shop grinder. But! Im doing well with it… I mean the results I have are good. I never had like concave shape or anything. I dont get it…
I’m with you. I also use a CBN wheel on a 150mm (6”) grinder and produce a 55deg bowl gouge grind. Only wish I had purchased a wider wheel (1 1/2”) than I did.