Making a small set of Farrier / Blacksmith tongs.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
- Making a very simple small set of tongs from 1/2" square bar. Perfect for shoemaking or light blacksmithing. #GaryHuston #Blacksmithing #Farrier #ASMR #Horseshoeing #Fabrication #Ironwork #Hoofcare #welder #repairs #horse #farriery #engineering
- Розваги
It makes the tongs grip better.
Just beginning, tried to make a set of tong several times without success, watched your video and tried , I now have my first set of tongs, thanks, the explanation of turning 90 degrees made sense.
Hi Gary...very nice demonstration...however I notice that the handles of your tongs (reins) are rather heavy as are ALL videos that I have watched on Blacksmithing!
I ..myself have been a Blacksmith for over thirty years working primarily in the Steel making and Forging industries.I had the distinct pleasure of apprenticing in a shop with five very experienced Blacksmiths..one of whom apprenticed in Italy almost thirty years before I arrived at the shop. In that shop it was a part of a primary steel making plant and we made a great variety of tools used in the different dept. in the steel and iron making facilities...including all the overhead crane hooks ranging from 15 to 100 ton capacity! We worked on large power hammers operated by hammer men..one 1,000 lb..one 1,500 lb and one 3,000 lb hammers run with 250 lbs Steam pressure.
Needless to say any tongs we used on the power hammers were all heavier in construction! However..the "personal tongs we used doing smaller work by hand on the anvils were all VERY light in construction! MOST of our personal tongs had handles no more than 1/4 to 5/8 diameter and were round right up to the eye in most cases!
Later I moved to another shop that was involved in drop forgings..and became good friends with the German Blacksmith who I was replacing on his retirement. There was only one Blacksmith..myself...and the main part of my job was to make tongs for the Hammer men who worked on the drop Hammers...about 75 of them..operating three shifts 5 days a week and sometimes weekends as well on overtime.I made several types and sizes of tongs ranging in length form 36 inches up to five feet in length! The longest tongs were for the heaters who loaded the bars in the Heating furnace for the Hammer Men...and the shortest ones...about 30 inches for Trim press operators. I also made very small light tongs for Hot Inspectors to pick up hot forgings for quality control inspections.
The jaws on the tongs ranged from about 3/4 inch round up to 2 1/2 inches round to fit the steel being forged.The 3/4 inch round bars were cut up to 27 inches in length...and the 2 1/2 inch round as long as 14 inches long.In BOTH cases the Hammer Man could only grip a MAXIMUM of 3/4 of an inch at the END of the bar to forge it! I had to make tongs that would support the weight of the bar by a grip of only 3/4 of an inch..AND tightly Enough to control the bar as they moved it from impression to impression within the forging die!
Even having to meet these demands I STILL made the handles of the forging tongs between 3/8 to 1/2 inch in Dia. in order to try and reduce the strain on the Hammer Men when taking into account hanging on to only 3/4 of an inch of steel!
MOST of the tongs were made..with the exception of Heater tong...from stock that was a little under 3/4 inch in dia...cut a max of 13 inches long...this was for the Jaws..about 2 to 2 1/2 inches...the eye..about 3/4 of an inch...and the balance drawn out to at least 32 to 40 inches long..depending on the job!
Even at that I still had some Hammer Men request even LIGHTER tongs to work with! I had a Few techniques to fit the Jaws,shape the handles and even certain grinding in the eye to Facilitate tight strong fits with a solid grip...to involved to discuss here!
I would be happy to send you a couple of pics along with an explanation of why I did to make and shape the tongs so. It was a technique which served really well for 22 years and a couple of thousand pairs of tongs!
You can Email me at.....tsmith14@xplornet.ca....if you would like to see and discuss this.
I have really enjoyed watching you work and yes..you have given ME some ideas as well!!
I have never seen a better , well explained, blacksmith video.
Very interesting. Enjoyed it.
Excellent as always.
Tried it out using the spacer and found it helpful. Thanks Garry, lovely video again.
Thanks..
Great stuff, thanks
Like the demonstration. Nice tongs
Thanks 👍
Nice video, you made those tongs with great skill! Though those tongs are actually farriers' tongs, but great for use in the shop nonetheless.
Thanks Gary.
Very welcome
Well said Gary
great video thanks!
As a beginner it's probably a good idea to use some sort of spacer but just to make a start, then turn over and do a bit the other side. I don't use a spacer I just hold the tongs slightly off the anvil but it takes some getting used to.
NICE VID!!
very nice tutorial thank you for sharing
Magic!!!!!!! cheers.
I've been watching a few videos of late, its a pleasure to watch a skilled smith produce a fine tool, your experience is obvious, and a "true smith " to boot ( also a shoer ) It makes me laugh when the part time blacksmiths get insulted when someone asks them "do you make horse shoes ? " ( I started as a farrier in the 70's,)
I don't know any blacksmith that can make a shoe! But I only know a few skilled men that can make a shoe, fit it and make a gate!
Thanks for the video. I enjoy them.
A small farriers gas forge would be perfect for stuff like this, I'm trying to find a good secondhand one myself!
I was pleased with the knife...
nice work indeed! thanks for the detail!
Thanks!
Lots of great information in this video, thank you Sir.
Good job Gary!
dang thats a great idea thanks. hooray for iron oxide!
hey gary i may be totally off on this one but,maybe you could make the tongs in an attached set as you described by: as you've said in past videos your anvil is 5in" wide if you had a piece of ten inch stock and flattened out the center 5inches for the jaws,then made the nessesary turns and flats on the ends,you could cut down the center and have blades 2 1/2"in long and weld reigns on the ends.(you know im a beginner) this is just an idea that popped into my head....
Thanks good vidoes verey helpfull
I've started out with an 25 pound railroad track anvil and a forge made out small old wheel rim, lined with clay. Including a bag of coal it was all about 30 bucks. Give it a go, buddy.
I don't know if this gas already been addressed, but the reason putting a dimple in the jaw improves grip is that it reduces the surface area if the jaw. It's kinda like reducing the surface area of a hammer face without decreasing the weight; you get a lot more force in the area of contact.
Cuz it is easier to stop the hammer in the anvil then to stop it with your own energy.Mind that the hand is use to the move up down and he is watching the hot iron when he see the shape he needed the hand is going for another hit and he just directs it side way.I do the same (personal experience) :)
I used an oak stump concreted into the ground for my anvil for years, worked great. No idea about the coal as I have never come across it before!
Thank you very much
Not levers, part of a shoe tree for putting boots and shoes on...
Just been watching a lot of your videos and they are fantastic! Very relaxed style, and your explanations make perfect sense. No nonsense, logical smithing.
Just a shame you appear to be a Saracens fan. haha. At least I have now got a few more uses for those farriers rasps I have stored up.
nice tutorial man, keep up the good work, cheers from chile!
Correct! And use material big enough for the job, you don't want to use 1/2" if you are going to be working with 2" bar!
the reason why you make a pair at the same time, is so that both parts of your tongs match in their length, width of their rivet plates etc. if you make the 2 parts of the tong at separate times it is unlikely that they would match well enough to make a good set (student at the national school of blacksmithing)
@Cesar Serra - Some good answers below. Tapping the hammer also helps keep the momentum of the hammer going while working the piece. The natural rebound of the hammer off the anvil uses less energy then starting the hammer from a dead lift
Thanks, It's made by Brooks, if you watch my "Quiet Anvil" video you can see the name on the side. It's pretty good for a thirty some year old tool!
NICE WORK.
Salut from Romania.
Ideally cast iron or stainless steel, stainless is hard to drill though. If you're not going to be doing loads of work a thick piece of mild steel will work, you might just have to replace it every so when..
Put a bit of paper between the parts while riveting - they won't be too tight then.
Would love to try making things like that.
it took me about an hour to build my own, and cost less then 50$ so ebay isn't always the best of choice. when you are looking into starting blacksmithing, its best to learn how to make your own tools anyways. including the forge.
muito bom parabéns ferreiro
alright, thank you very much!
спасибо!
That really depends how big your forge is. I have a piece of 1 1/2" thick stainless with an inch hole in and that has been there twenty years! I guess anything 1/2" and up is good.
@Cesar Serra we also tap the anvil bc it keeps the rhythm of your hammer going... if you listen real close to each smith we have our own "song" if you will they we tap to
Gary, when riveting the tongs, you mentioned that you could have used a piece of 1/4" rod, leaving 1/8" sticking out at both ends and rivet each side. To do this,do you rest the tongs on a spacer like a nut between the tongs and the face of the anvil? Would you ball pein one side of the rivet fully? Then the other? Or rotate bit by bit? Thanks
You could make thermite... wouldn't be pure though as the scale has a bunch of impurities. I've never tried it before.
question if you will kind of an odd one too
;is there a use for the scale or oxide that comes from forging steel and iron
Just the fact I haven't got a forge realy.. Can you recommend a mobile/outdoor forge? Or could I do this type of forging with a small portable farriers forge, Iive watched your other videos there all a good watch. The farriers rasp turned knife was impressive!
Good tutoriral, Do you need to be acrurate when you flaten out the first turn or offset to waht size of stock you are making the tongs to hold?
Great instruction. What would be best to mount my 2.5 foot railroad track anvil on? Also, I have Kentucky hard coal. Whats' better or what can I do to make this "greasy" coal better used?
Without seeing the grill its difficult to tell, but they could be resistance welded, you wouldn't see much evidence of this. As for protection, if it's to cook on, none, if you paint or oil it it will smoke like hell and taint your food! Rub a little cooking grease on it after cooking some burgers or bacon, that way it's natural protection!
All blacksmith's can make shoes or should be able to. The farrier can then do the fittings
Starting with 1/2". You don't need to be that accurate, just make sure they are both the same. I made these for 3/8"
The irony ant 15:31 burning your self putting metal in tongs, but I do it to all the time
Irony, Ha!
@shortfusedleathernk Unfortunately I don't fly any more after a nasty experience on my way to Prague. It's a bit to far to drive!
I have a suggestion for a video, how about a drift or punch rack? Just a thought Keep up the great work
Grant
@evcrawfish just bog standard mild steel.
welcome to us! give tips for beginners!
So do you just no to make the jaws big enoguh for waht you paln for them to hold then make sure they are a tight fit?
What (metal) should i use for the vent in the forge, right about where the air is comming through, so that it wont melt, but the holes would still be small enough? thanks
ok, but just how thick should stainless steel/cast iron be? i really have no idea, thanks for the advice
@demonokron you're welcome...
Hello Gary
Just presuming from the horse shoes in your video you are a farrier??
sorry i have no idea what you said!
Crush it up and dig it into your garden as fertilizer!
Once again an amazing video!! To bad you live on the other side of the world! Or we could get together ! Ever plan on going to America ? Talk with you later , Kirby
what are those levers to your left ?
@evcrawfish I hope you manage to follow it and make yourself a pair!
@Cesar Serra Since blacksmithing is such a tiring art, it takes less strength to slide it than to stop it in mid air.
What kind off costs am I looking at, for a starter kit?
Why?
I love watching your videos! Did you use mild steel or tool steel?
Mild steel.
Can u do a video on making a log splitting axe ?
And what szie of stock you start out with
Hi Gary, I'm going to make.. more likely try to make... my first set of tongs tomorrow. I have a question about the filing you do. I've seen other videos where the smith holds the stock at a 45 degree angle to the edge when they do the second turn. Given that I know nothing, would that eliminate, or reduce, the need for the filing?
yes, but it's a bit more advanced technique. Try it and see how it goes.
Hey, at this point in my progress, "keeping it straight" is an advanced technique. ;-) Thanks
there's lot's of new and used forges on ebay
lol seen bigger but yes is a nice anvil
Gary, I realize this is an old video, but I like going back and reviewing old videos...sometimes I catch things I miss first time around.
Question...what is the purpose of the dimple on farrier's tongs?
Grip
@@garyhuston OK, thanks.
Hey Gary while watching this video you were filing I saw a small hammer hanging on the wall it has a straight pein and a cross pein what is the proper name and what is it used for I have one like it but have no idea what it is for thanks have a good day I love your videos
it's a chipping hammer for taking the slag off welds done with rods.
Thank you keep up the good work
How to forge tongs
Gary, Here is a link of Brian Bazel making two tongs at once. He is always fun to watch- uses an amazingly large hammer.
Thats not two tongs at once that's just one half on each end of a bar! I saw somewhere them both being made in the middle so they where cut apart at the jaw.
Hi I'm just a beginner and I am about to make a set of these. Why do most guys use square stock as opposed to round stock?
BlackBeardOutdoors square is easier, you don't loose any material to the corners.
Got something that looks like a small rail road track but its the track in a car wash. Has a good flat base and top. It only weighs 10 pounds but it seems REALLY tough. Do you think I could make a pair of tongs with it?
Why would you waste good steel when mild steel is perfectly good for tongs!
The track is what im going to be using for and anvil. I just didn't know if it would be to small or other. Thanks for replying though, I appreciate it.
pfoutsy
You should have said "on it"! Yes probably, if you secure it down well..
Alright, thanks for you're help.
Keep that thumb of the hammer shaft .....
Why do blacksmiths always bang their hammers on the anvil right after they hit the metal?
What's stopping you?
Not in the slightest! Whats a few burns between friends! You should see my left arm, covered in scars from burns and knife cuts when I slip while shoeing! Only girls don"t have scars.....
ricki gervais? is that you?!
Were are u from
Lazeedaisy England..
Gary, why don't you run a power hammer in your shop?
Kevin Keel I don't have the room and it probably wouldn't get used much.
what was using the ball peen on the jaw for
No! Go buy one from the hardware store!
*this has
What happens if u hit a hard face on a hard face
They can shatter and spray shrapnel everywhere! Take a look at my "Party Trick" video for an example of what can happen.
James Morton don't do it I have had a 1/4 inch size peice of steel go into me when I was young
i got a gas forg given to me and it blew up