OMG. He shows you you every step. You can pause then play every step and do anything he does. It is freakin amazing. I have made knives for years and this is the absolute best place I have found. Like and follow you will learn in an amazing pace. Just follow his steps. I promise you will do better work.
i love this tutorial. the majority of the steel i got to start out with is 1/2 inch round 6 to 13 inches in lenght in bundles i got from my local scrap yard. and i had no tongs to hold the half inch round but now i do! i have a pair of longer heavy tong but i really like this shorter style. short, simple and they look good.
I'm really glad you got something from this video. I'm planning to make more tong making videos showing different jaw styles - maybe sometimes just showing the process and in others, explaining as I go along. Thanks for watching and for your positive comment. Glen
(repeatedly - неоднократно Ther's no that word in english to characterize my toughts) Watching your work you inspire me to create... to do something... Watching your wideos i repair all my pliers (Пасатижи), side cutters and hammers. Thers really pleasure to work with tools in good condition that you make your own. As you, i see that you take care of your hammers, tongs anvils , removing slug by hands - it"s culture of working and it"s pleesed to look. Resently use your horn anvil. Just so you know we call anvis ("Кормилица" - feminine gender) ("breadwinner" in english terms male gender) it feeds your work. The final product is inspiring
Serge, I'm very happy you are able to get some inspiration from my work. I have a friend who always used to say, "Take care of your tools and they'll take care of you". I will definitely use my horned anvil (Peddinghaus) in an upcoming video. I appreciate you taking the time to comment and for the interesting language information. Glen
Hay Steve love the video and your channel!!!!!! I am just getting involved with playing around with blacksmithing. love it!!!!!! Never really had extra time. Love your channel, l have picked up some good tips !!! Looking forward to more videos!!! Ron
Ron, I'm very glad you enjoy my channel. I'm hoping to improve my video quality and make them more instructive but it's easier said than done. Good luck in your blacksmithing and thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Glen
One thing that doesn’t come across well from many of the instructional videos I’ve found out there, is a feel for the pace and rhythm of the work process. That’s because of all the breaks they take to explain things. It does come across in this one, which I find helpful. Thanks!
+Paul Tooley When it comes to filming, for me if it's not one thing that goes awry then it's another... Some of this (like the glare issue) has to do with my unenclosed work space which leads to varying light conditions. Glad you still enjoyed... Thanks. Glen
I really like watching your process Glen. Your comments and actions are continuous teaching tools for the rest of us! Thanks! You are obviously an outside-the-box designer genius!
+Lance Pratt I'm glad you got something from my video Lance. Since sitting down while forging for so long now, I think it may be difficult for me to go back to standing, at least when working at an anvil. Good luck with your tongs and blacksmithing endeavor - if you decide to purchase any from me, be sure to mention watching my channel and I will give you a discount. Thanks. Glen
Thanks Glen, you have no idea how this video lit a spark in me. Making tongs for me is a challenge. I hope to make these as my first ever tongs. Besides the ones I bought from you of course #awesome
+Windsor Forge I'm very glad you found some inspiration from this video. I just wish the quality of my filming were better... I'm planning to make more tong videos and try to use more close in filming to let viewers see the process more clearly. And in some, I'll give more detailed explanations of each step. As this has lit a spark in you, kind comments like yours light a spark in me to make more videos. Thanks. Glen
Thank you for sharing Sir! Im definitely going to try makingmy own tongs. Hope to be able to buy a punch set and hammer from you soon. Lover your videos. You've inspired me to take up blacksmithing as a hobby here in South Africa.
+Christopher Thiessen I'm glad you were able to get some inspiration. Sometimes seeing what others are up to also lights a fire in me and in this regard, UA-cam is very good. Keep watching. Thanks. Glen
After seeing your vid I gave it a go at a smitty of some one I know. Didn't look like much (only my 4th time behind the anvil), but it is fully functional and perfect for what I made it for :-) Thanx!
That's great to know - you're a super quick learner. I'm glad my video here could be of some assistance. Keep it the good work and thanks for watching. Glen
+Adam Satterfield Yes, I certainly remember. I really appreciate your endorsement - word of mouth really helps. If you or anyone who mentions watching my videos wants any tongs, etc., I am willing to offer a discount. I hope all is well with you. Thanks. Glen
It's my pleasure. I'm very glad you find my videos instructive. In this video, I really didn't give too much "how to" on the process but I will make future tong videos for sure. Thanks. Glen
good work...like your clean style of working...the material looks very clean and polished at the end...that is one thing i cant do as good as you...but i try to learn =)
very cool video Glen! I'm going to try and make a tong just like these out of 1/2" rebar as my first project. and I'm also going to look into putting a handle on my punch similar to yours. (that handle makes so much sense!) subscribed!
Glad you liked this video Alexander. Good luck with the tong making. I'm going to upload some other tong making videos in the near future. There are certain instances where a hand-held punch make sense and other instances where a handled punch is more suitable. Thanks for watching, subscribing and for your purchase. Glen
That's been in my mind for a while and I'll eventually get to making that video. One issue is that when I'm hammering for a UA-cam video I often like to work on things that I don't normally do. One-off stuff that I find fun or projects for friends and family. Really glad you like my videos. Keep watching... Thanks. Glen
I'm very glad you like this video. I struggle with my videos and although I've made progress, it's slow. I will post better tongs making videos for sure. Thanks for watching. Glen
Very nice video sir. Well thought out, great presentation and editing...very informative as well. I'm subbing for those reasons. Very much looking forward to more. Thank you for your time and effort!
I'm very happy you like this video and subscribed. I'm not the best at filming myself but will do my best moving forward. I appreciate you watching and your kind comment. Thanks. Glen
I like the fact that you’re not smashing anything. It’s all just firm, precision hammering. Not saying that there aren’t times to pull out your inner Hulk, but it just goes to show that you can do masterful work without throwing your shoulder out.
Do not wet the gloves! For lesser heat, it will give you more time, but if you accidentally grab some red hot (or almost red hot) metal the steam will instantly go right through the glove and burn the crap out of your fingers! Dry gloves can be shaken off before injury. I speak from experience...
Dave, You make a good point for sure, I personally will continue to wet my glove, being aware (I hope) to not grab a hot workpiece. Without the wetting, I have very minimal time before the end I'm holding gets too hot. Also, the wet glove makes it fit tighter and gives me a bit more dexterity. I was taught to treat every piece of steel around the forge as hot (if unsure). But your advice is good and can save someone from getting badly burned. Thanks for sharing. Glen
Glen GS Tongs I recently saw Alec Steele wearing a chain male glove. he was able to grab some seriously hot steel for a while before he had to put it down.
Try making something similar to this. But being flat jawed, this style tong might not be best for knife making with wide, flat stock. If you will need to hold your stock on edge when hammering (like when making a tang), unless the tongs grasps the thickness just perfectly, your stock might move around as you hammer. I will demo some different tongs in videos when I get a chance. Good luck in your work and thanks for watching. Glen
Hi Glen, great video. I like your style of teaching. I'm just getting started in blacksmithing, and would like to make most of the tools I'll need. For the pleasure of making stuff, and practicing the processes. You used mild steel for the tongs, can most of the tools be made of mild steel with no hardening process? And which tools (if any) would have to be made of high carbon steel, for hardening? Thanks for sharing Glen. Regards Shayne......
Shayne, For most of my tongs, I use mild steel. The reason being is that mild steel can be quenched over and over again without fear of cracking (I often cool my tongs so they are less likely to deform). Steels with more carbon (medium, or high carbon) may crack from thermal cycling (going from cold to hot to cold) too much or too quickly. Other tools are better made with higher carbon, tool or alloy steels. It really depends on what type of tool it is and how it is to be used. Tools like hot punches and cutters would be fairly useless if made from mild steel. Other tools, like twisting wrenches or upsetting blocks could be made from mild steel. Any tool that needs to hold an edge should have more carbon - like chisels, knives, saw blades, punches and the like. But nowadays, there are so many specialty steels; alloys and tools steels, and many blacksmiths make use of steels that are suited for high heat, shock resistance, deforming resistance and so on. For hammers, my personal preference is standard medium carbon steel but others like high carbon. A hammer made for mild steel has a place in a blacksmith shop but it may not make a good general forging hammer. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Glen
+cherkezinho Thanks for that info. I will look into it. I just made another tong video and though the glare isn't as bad, it's still annoying. I will upload that video anyway... I appreciate you taking time to comment. Glen
+jeffery biddix The steel is 1018 mild steel. This is my preference for most tongs though I do sometimes use 1045 medium carbon steel. I constantly quench my tongs and with the mild steel, there's no worry of cracking. I forgot to mention this in the video so thanks. Glen
I remember that comment - not sure how accurate that is but good stuff. However I can gain a subscriber, it's all good with me. I'll continue to be the "Christopher Walken" of blacksmiths. Thanks. Glen
+Drew Bywater When the weather really heats up here, you'd be lucky to see me with a shirt on when blacksmithing. Hence, I need to keep the camera angle as discreet as possible! But I always wear eye protection... Thanks for watching. Glen
Xd the heat is why i live north of 60 in the summer time...outdoor heat+forge is damn near unbearable (dare i say, un-bare-able? Xd) Love the videos either way
i would use a slot punch then drift it round you will keep more material around the holes then admittedly not much more but that really depends on how thin you make the slot punch .
One question, does the drift need to be bigger than the hot rivet so when it's flattened it won't bind the hinges on the tongs , wondered how tight is beneficial
Slightly bigger is OK but not absolutely necessary. If the hole you drift is almost exactly the size of your rivets, it will work, so long as the rivet can fit in when hot. When you rivet the tong blanks together, the rivet shank will upset some and cause the tongs to stick tightly together. At this point (while still hot), you can open and close the tong and this will wear the rivet to a good fit. Some people do this while simultaneously dunking in water, so as to not deform any surrounding parts. Thanks for watching. Glen
Yes, I made the rivet from a piece of round 8mm (~ 5/16"). You can head a rivet prior to joining the tong halves (as I normally do) or you can even do this while joining the tongs. To do it the latter way, you would be need to back up the side of the tong facing the anvil so that the round rivet stock can pass through but only to a point. Then once the top is peened over, you can turn over and peen the other side. I may show this in a future video, for those who don't want to pre-make rivets. Thanks for watching. Good luck in your work. Glen
+dunch88 The anvils are my own design. I couldn't find anything to suit my style of work and found the resources here to have anvils made to my own specs. All told, I had three styles made. They are great and I enjoy working on them everyday. Thanks for watching. Glen
+ARGROAS 1 I currently use only gas. In the past, I only used coal. I used to live in the country and had a very traditional style shop. Now, I am in a big city and burning coal isn't an option. However, some blacksmiths here use forge coke (basically, purified coal). It's a great fuel but needs constant airflow to keep it burning. I am planning a quick video to discuss the advantages and disadvantages of coal and gas. Thanks for watching. Glen
Thanks for the video!I am new to this and would appreciate captions or audio saying what is happening when the workpiece goes out of frame. It might be obvious to a Smith, but not yet to me, thanks!
If you are willing, captions saying what an action's goal is - what you have in mind -would make it easier for me to make sense of what I am seeing - e.g. "squaring the jaws" or "flattening the pivot". Thanks again for the video!
Danny, I used 1018 cold rolled mild steel for these tongs (not tool steel). I sometimes use 1045 medium carbon steel but 1018 is my preference. The stuff that you might find at a local hardware store is more likely to be A36 hot milled mild steel (construction type steel). That will work just fine but is a more inconsistent material when compared to cold rolled. Thanks for watching. Glen
I'm Bored sounds like he is using a propane forge, keep in mind that he is working with two things at the time so when he is working on one of them the other is being heated and the water part is that he is cooling the parts that he is holding so he wont burn his hand.
Yes, Zaio Hellgren is correct. I'm using a propane forge and when I take a tong blank out, I'm cooling the back end to make it so I can hold it longer (when using a glove) and also to not have certain areas deform when hammering. Since most tong balances are identical halves, I'm just rotating from one half to the other so the reheat time is fairly quick. Thanks to both of you and have a Happy New Year. Glen
+Deuce 70 19701979 I definitely prefer my shorter length, single face style hammers. Basically a shorter version of a cutler or dog ear hammer as some call it. I just prefer the feel when swinging. The mechanics of this style just seem different and easier on my arm. I also like my hammers to be of a medium hardness - not too hard. Might be a little slower moving steel but feels better to me. I will get a video of my preferred hammer in a future video. Thanks for watching. Glen
Nice video, thanks. Just a suggestion, there's a curl starting to form on the upper edge of the face on the hammer you used for most of the shaping of the tongs, I hope you've ground it off. Years ago I had a chip from a punch (not mine) fly off and get stuck in my cheek, needless to say I dress all my striking tools as soon as I see some deformity happening. Better my cheeks not my eye but I had a flake of rust stuck in my cornea another day. Yes I wear eye and face protection constantly. Be safe, thanks again.
James, very good observation. I was using that hammer (a super soft, engineer style hammer) for striking my top tools (punches, etc.) It's so soft, it only takes a week or two of use, after redressing, to mushroom significantly. And I started to get into the habit of using the other side for general forging because I really like using a "soft" hammer at times. Well, if you saw that hammer now, you would admonish me pretty badly. You're 100% right. It's just plain dangerous. The good news is that I've basically stopped using it. And if I use it again, I will grind it down. This hammer started at 3 pounds and I swear it's close to 2 pounds now! Thanks for the reminder. Glen
+Glen GS Tongs Two lbs remaining from three! You've gotten your money's worth. It's better to swing an extra time or two than to have to repair or re-dress something you're creating. Striking tools get consumed, no way around it.
It looks to me like your anvils are nearly on the ground. Is this your preferred height?I see one bent knee in shorts I can only think the other knee is on the ground.May I ask your reasons behind this setup?
David, I sit while forging. In my limited space, I found it better for me to operate in this way. I am going to post a video soon showing this in detail since others have also inquired regarding this. Thanks for watching. Glen
Ethan, My tongs are made from 1018 mild steel so no heat is necessary (or even possible to any degree). I prefer tongs made from mild steel because they can be quenched over and over again without fear of cracking. Thanks for watching. Glen
Cameron, I designed and had these anvil made. I was having trouble finding an anvil that suited my work style and work space here in Taiwan and so took advantage of the resources available to me here. I made three different styles altogether and am planning a forth. I'm very pleased with these... Thanks for watching. Glen
The rivet is the same style of steel (1018 mild steel) but is a smaller diameter. This tong is made from 13mm (~1/2") and the rivet is 8mm (~ 5/16"). Thanks for watching. I will definitely do more tong making videos and do more explaining in some of those. Glen
Others have mentioned this and I don't doubt it. But I have still found that dipping my glove in water gives me extra time when handling hot pieces. Granted, I repeatedly dip in water which helps dissipate any heat buildup. But it can go from comfortable to unbearable rather quickly if I hold on too long. Anyway, I appreciate the advice. Glen
Been considering getting back into smithing. long ago, many years and I'm still way too green to be considered anything but playing. One thing I noticed-you tend to hit on the hot off, a tap or two on the project then on one the side, iit that a habit and is there a reason for it or just something you do?
Tapping the anvil between strikes is basically a timing device - helps maintain a rhythm. But I mainly use this technique to give myself a second to examine the workpiece after some striking. But in my opinion, some people overuse this technique (almost one-to-one real strikes to hot off strikes, as you call it) and it becomes more of an unnecessary preparation to strike because the person is not exactly sure or because the person doesn't feel confident in his or her eye-hand coordination. Good luck in your blacksmithing and thanks for watching. Glen
I tend to do that with my 4 pound hammer, the bounce I get off the anvil makes lifting the hammer effortless and makes life easier after a few hours of swinging it.
Steve, The stock I use for tong is cold rolled 1018. I will make a similar video but be sure to make it more instructional next time... Thanks for watching. Glen
+Marc Aldrich Dylan has answered your question correctly. I am dipping the back end of the tong blanks in my slack tub to cool them so I can hold onto them while hammering (so as to not need a tong to make a tong). Assuming a blank is 12 inches long, I am cooling about 8 inches and leaving the front 4 inches at forging temp. I will show this in a future tong making video. Thanks for watching. Glen
I noticed that you sit for a lot of your work. I am just starting out and am wondering just how much difference in approach vs standing. I have difficulty standing for any length of time and was wondering if you could make any suggestions as to how to set things up.
Thanks Ronnie, the anvil(s) are my own design which I had made in Taiwan, where I currently live. I needed something to suit my style of working - I like to use a compact anvil with a wider face. A horn isn't something I use too much but I do use the swage depressions (on my custom anvils), hardy and pritchel holes. And my anvils are hardened top to bottom so any face can be used. Check out my website for the specs on my latest and smallest anvil. Thanks for watching. Glen
And it's a coincidence that you mention the Jersey Turnpike - I just returned from a trip visiting family and drove just about the total length of it - heavy duty traffic on the northern end and noise level probably about the same as here. Thanks for watching. Glen
The block anvils you see are my own designs that I had made. All told, I had three different styles made and am very pleased with all. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glad you like this. Some have said they wished I could explain more (details) about the process and I will certainly do so in future videos. Thanks for watching and subscribing. Glen
I'm glad you like this video. I will do more tong making videos and some will be more instructional than this. Actually, you're the second person to make the comment that I sound like Christopher Walken so it must be true. Thanks for watching.
That's a good suggestion. This video is fairly old and I have (mostly) rectified the glare issue. Now I just need to fix the audio, camera angle, editing, video content, and so on! Thanks for watching and for your suggestion. Glen
A punch is normally used to make a hole, be that round, square, rectangular, etc. A drift is used to expand an already made hole to a certain size / shape. So, in some cases, they can be one and the same. That is, you can make a hole with a punch then continue to "drift" it to size with the same tool (assuming it's tapered the way you want). Or, you can have a separate drift that is tapered on two ends with the middle the size / shape you want the final hole to be. You heat the workpiece and hammer it straight through. With a punch, you normally cannot hammer it through but need to back it out to expel it from the hole since it's likely only tapered on one end. I hope this answers your question. Glen
Rich, A flat landing would be the way to go. But it could be tapered to a point and still work, depending on the sort of hole you want to create. However, most punches should have crisp edges where the taper meets the very end, in order to cut as it penetrates. Thanks for watching. Glen
+FangBlah I never thought about it this way - getting burned by the steam is definitely possible. But I think since the end I'm holding becomes gradually hot, the chance of being burned is less. But if the price were already very hot and I used a wet glove then the chance of being burned by steam is definitely high. Thanks for sharing. Glen
+Jim Cooper It's like an offbeat, it lets you inspect the work without losing your hammering rhythm. You'll notice it is a standard technique that noone really notices themselves doing
+Jim Cooper It's a technique that a lot of blacksmiths use and perhaps some overuse to the point of wasting effort. Basically, it allows me a second to examine the workpiece while not bringing my hammering to a dead stop, which could also be wasteful as momentum would be lost. It also helps create rhythm and when used properly can help enhance timing and accuracy and and so make hammering more efficient, in my opinion. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen GS Tongs Great work, you have your own polished style and that makes it your very own technique. Very nice man-made tongs G-man great teaching too, haven't done much except puttering around with the idea of making steel hot and forming into art like you've accomplished, thanks great video.
Caleb, Yes, depending on the length of the piece, that would be possible. It would give you some extra time before significant heat radiated to your hand. When I use a glove, I always soak it in water first for exactly this reason. Thanks. Glen
Jay, I'm glad you enjoy this video. Not everyone is fond of this style of not explaining every detail. To each his own, I guess... Thanks for watching. Glen
It's just way too hot and humid here in Taiwan during half of the year. I know some people will say this is unsafe and to that point I couldn't argue. But if I wore long pants, it would be extremely uncomfortable and to me, this could pose a bigger safety hazard since I could lose focus from the discomfort. No matter, thanks for watching. Glen
The hornless anvils you see me using are my own designs which I had made here in Taiwan, where I live. For someone starting out, buying an anvil would probably make more sense. But if you're sure of what you want and have the resources available to get it done, then getting a custom anvil made is an option. Thanks for watching. Glen
+gnewsch Many times when the slug does not come out cleanly, I've found it's often due to the edge of business end of my punch not being crisp enough (edges get slightly rounded after repeated use) or my alignment (top and bottom) isn't quite on, or a combination of both. Thanks for your input about punching at a lower heat from the back side. In my mind that would seem to make sense given that the steel would not "give" at a lesser heat making it shear more cleanly. I'll give it a go. Good advice. Thanks. Glen
Thank for your interest in my work. My website is: www.gstongs.com Let me know if you can't find it or if you have any questions. And thanks for watching. Glen - glen03@earthlink.net
John, With this tong, I just approximated. I would say I flattened three inches of the round bar and punched the hole about two inches from the end of the jaws.
who's man? Any idea how to figure out steel from iron.. I gave a lot of rusted stuff around but I can't know unless I grtvthe rust out..do you have like a go-to for steel? Like ,,tools are aleays made of steel" or something?
Aimwork in any mild steel is fine for forging, If you have steel laying around its most likely mild steel. To tell steel and iron apart is to just hit it with a hammer when it's at a forging temp and if it chips or crumbles it is cast iron
It's 1018 cold rolled mild steel. It does look pretty similar to stainless steel though - it's almost impossible to tell just by eye... Thanks for watching. Glen
Awesome! I just started blacksmithing and I can guarantee you it is much harder than Glen makes it look.
Cecil, Thanks for watching and for your support - I appreciate it. I think some would say I make it look harder than it really is! Glen
OMG. He shows you you every step. You can pause then play every step and do anything he does. It is freakin amazing. I have made knives for years and this is the absolute best place I have found. Like and follow you will learn in an amazing pace. Just follow his steps. I promise you will do better work.
A very late thank you for your kind comment.
i love this tutorial. the majority of the steel i got to start out with is 1/2 inch round 6 to 13 inches in lenght in bundles i got from my local scrap yard. and i had no tongs to hold the half inch round but now i do! i have a pair of longer heavy tong but i really like this shorter style. short, simple and they look good.
I'm really glad you got something from this video. I'm planning to make more tong making videos showing different jaw styles - maybe sometimes just showing the process and in others, explaining as I go along. Thanks for watching and for your positive comment. Glen
(repeatedly - неоднократно Ther's no that word in english to characterize my toughts) Watching your work you inspire me to create... to do something... Watching your wideos i repair all my pliers (Пасатижи), side cutters and hammers. Thers really pleasure to work with tools in good condition that you make your own. As you, i see that you take care of your hammers, tongs anvils , removing slug by hands - it"s culture of working and it"s pleesed to look. Resently use your horn anvil. Just so you know we call anvis ("Кормилица" - feminine gender) ("breadwinner" in english terms male gender) it feeds your work.
The final product is inspiring
Serge, I'm very happy you are able to get some inspiration from my work. I have a friend who always used to say, "Take care of your tools and they'll take care of you". I will definitely use my horned anvil (Peddinghaus) in an upcoming video. I appreciate you taking the time to comment and for the interesting language information. Glen
Hay Steve love the video and your channel!!!!!! I am just getting involved with playing around with blacksmithing. love it!!!!!! Never really had extra time. Love your channel, l have picked up some good tips !!! Looking forward to more videos!!! Ron
Ron, I'm very glad you enjoy my channel. I'm hoping to improve my video quality and make them more instructive but it's easier said than done. Good luck in your blacksmithing and thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Glen
One thing that doesn’t come across well from many of the instructional videos I’ve found out there, is a feel for the pace and rhythm of the work process. That’s because of all the breaks they take to explain things. It does come across in this one, which I find helpful. Thanks!
Thanks James.
Glen. Thanks for a great video, glare and all. Very nice and "complete" - steel rod to riveted tongs. Nice
+Paul Tooley When it comes to filming, for me if it's not one thing that goes awry then it's another... Some of this (like the glare issue) has to do with my unenclosed work space which leads to varying light conditions. Glad you still enjoyed... Thanks. Glen
Excellent demonstration! I learned a lot.
I really like watching your process Glen. Your comments and actions are continuous teaching tools for the rest of us! Thanks! You are obviously an outside-the-box designer genius!
Hi Bob, I really appreciate your kind comment. Thanks.
First time i've ever seen a smith sit and forge!
But the video was very helpful, I have my first coal forge and need some tongs.
+Lance Pratt I'm glad you got something from my video Lance. Since sitting down while forging for so long now, I think it may be difficult for me to go back to standing, at least when working at an anvil. Good luck with your tongs and blacksmithing endeavor - if you decide to purchase any from me, be sure to mention watching my channel and I will give you a discount. Thanks. Glen
The brass is a nice touch! Cool tongs.
+Harry McLane It really does help with rust protection and lasts for a very long time. Thanks for watching. Glen
Thanks Glen, you have no idea how this video lit a spark in me. Making tongs for me is a challenge. I hope to make these as my first ever tongs. Besides the ones I bought from you of course #awesome
+Windsor Forge I'm very glad you found some inspiration from this video. I just wish the quality of my filming were better... I'm planning to make more tong videos and try to use more close in filming to let viewers see the process more clearly. And in some, I'll give more detailed explanations of each step. As this has lit a spark in you, kind comments like yours light a spark in me to make more videos. Thanks. Glen
Thank you for sharing Sir! Im definitely going to try makingmy own tongs. Hope to be able to buy a punch set and hammer from you soon. Lover your videos. You've inspired me to take up blacksmithing as a hobby here in South Africa.
Best instructional videos on the tube !! Much appreciated.
Adam, You're being too kind...but I'll take it. Thanks for your support. Glen
Very good video . Thanks for posting.
This inspires me. All the best man.
+Christopher Thiessen I'm glad you were able to get some inspiration. Sometimes seeing what others are up to also lights a fire in me and in this regard, UA-cam is very good. Keep watching. Thanks. Glen
Hello, I know this in a old video but I do appreciate it. Made my first pair of not awful tongs today following along. Thank for the help
excellent craftmanship!
Arnold, Very glad you like it. Thanks for watching and for your kind comment. Glen
After seeing your vid I gave it a go at a smitty of some one I know. Didn't look like much (only my 4th time behind the anvil), but it is fully functional and perfect for what I made it for :-)
Thanx!
That's great to know - you're a super quick learner. I'm glad my video here could be of some assistance. Keep it the good work and thanks for watching. Glen
i bought many of your tongs! they are great!
+Adam Satterfield Yes, I certainly remember. I really appreciate your endorsement - word of mouth really helps. If you or anyone who mentions watching my videos wants any tongs, etc., I am willing to offer a discount. I hope all is well with you. Thanks. Glen
Mate I learn from all your videos. Great stuff.
Every video has been very instructive, Really enjoy these. Thanks for the work of making these videos.
It's my pleasure. I'm very glad you find my videos instructive. In this video, I really didn't give too much "how to" on the process but I will make future tong videos for sure. Thanks. Glen
Glen, I enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing!
+Jeffrey Vastine Glad you enjoyed. More similar videos will follow... Thanks. Glen
Fantastic! I will be on the lookout for them.
good work...like your clean style of working...the material looks very clean and polished at the end...that is one thing i cant do as good as you...but i try to learn =)
Did you miss the step when he sprayed it down with WD-40? That could be the shinyness you were seeing...
very cool video Glen! I'm going to try and make a tong just like these out of 1/2" rebar as my first project. and I'm also going to look into putting a handle on my punch similar to yours. (that handle makes so much sense!) subscribed!
Glad you liked this video Alexander. Good luck with the tong making. I'm going to upload some other tong making videos in the near future. There are certain instances where a hand-held punch make sense and other instances where a handled punch is more suitable. Thanks for watching, subscribing and for your purchase. Glen
I would like to see a video of the making of your bent knee tongs. Keep up the amazing videos. Thanks...
That's been in my mind for a while and I'll eventually get to making that video. One issue is that when I'm hammering for a UA-cam video I often like to work on things that I don't normally do. One-off stuff that I find fun or projects for friends and family. Really glad you like my videos. Keep watching... Thanks. Glen
That is a beautiful tong bro...
It's very neat
Going all the way back lol.... Every evening I watch two or three videos....so I can catch up with what I have missed.
I do appreciate you taking the time. But some of my older videos are sketchy at best. Thanks Dan.
On the glove thing, when wet it will actually heat up faster. If the piece is too hot youll find out fast
Great video man! Love your hammer collection as well!
I'm very glad you like this video. I struggle with my videos and although I've made progress, it's slow. I will post better tongs making videos for sure. Thanks for watching. Glen
Very nice video sir. Well thought out, great presentation and editing...very informative as well. I'm subbing for those reasons. Very much looking forward to more. Thank you for your time and effort!
I'm very happy you like this video and subscribed. I'm not the best at filming myself but will do my best moving forward. I appreciate you watching and your kind comment. Thanks. Glen
Just keep doing what yer doing...I think you'll be just fine matey. ;)
I like the fact that you’re not smashing anything. It’s all just firm, precision hammering.
Not saying that there aren’t times to pull out your inner Hulk, but it just goes to show that you can do masterful work without throwing your shoulder out.
Do not wet the gloves! For lesser heat, it will give you more time, but if you accidentally grab some red hot (or almost red hot) metal the steam will instantly go right through the glove and burn the crap out of your fingers! Dry gloves can be shaken off before injury. I speak from experience...
Dave, You make a good point for sure, I personally will continue to wet my glove, being aware (I hope) to not grab a hot workpiece. Without the wetting, I have very minimal time before the end I'm holding gets too hot. Also, the wet glove makes it fit tighter and gives me a bit more dexterity. I was taught to treat every piece of steel around the forge as hot (if unsure). But your advice is good and can save someone from getting badly burned. Thanks for sharing. Glen
Glen GS Tongs I recently saw Alec Steele wearing a chain male glove. he was able to grab some seriously hot steel for a while before he had to put it down.
Nice work !!
I need to make or buy tongs to hold 3/16 ×1"1/2 and 1/4" × 2" FB for knife making
Try making something similar to this. But being flat jawed, this style tong might not be best for knife making with wide, flat stock. If you will need to hold your stock on edge when hammering (like when making a tang), unless the tongs grasps the thickness just perfectly, your stock might move around as you hammer. I will demo some different tongs in videos when I get a chance. Good luck in your work and thanks for watching. Glen
Great stuff Glen. I really enjoy watching your work. Keep 'em coming mate.
James, Thanks for your support. It's very much appreciated. I'll do my best moving forward to provide better quality videos. Glen
Hi Glen, great video. I like your style of teaching.
I'm just getting started in blacksmithing, and would like to make most of the tools I'll need.
For the pleasure of making stuff, and practicing the processes.
You used mild steel for the tongs, can most of the tools be made of mild steel with no hardening process?
And which tools (if any) would have to be made of high carbon steel, for hardening?
Thanks for sharing Glen.
Regards Shayne......
Shayne, For most of my tongs, I use mild steel. The reason being is that mild steel can be quenched over and over again without fear of cracking (I often cool my tongs so they are less likely to deform). Steels with more carbon (medium, or high carbon) may crack from thermal cycling (going from cold to hot to cold) too much or too quickly. Other tools are better made with higher carbon, tool or alloy steels. It really depends on what type of tool it is and how it is to be used. Tools like hot punches and cutters would be fairly useless if made from mild steel. Other tools, like twisting wrenches or upsetting blocks could be made from mild steel. Any tool that needs to hold an edge should have more carbon - like chisels, knives, saw blades, punches and the like. But nowadays, there are so many specialty steels; alloys and tools steels, and many blacksmiths make use of steels that are suited for high heat, shock resistance, deforming resistance and so on. For hammers, my personal preference is standard medium carbon steel but others like high carbon. A hammer made for mild steel has a place in a blacksmith shop but it may not make a good general forging hammer. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching. Glen
That's very helpful, explained well.
Thanks for your time replying, and I look forward to your future video's.
Regards Shayne......
Great video!!!!!
Hi. You can mount a polarizing lens on you camera to kill the glare completely. Interesting work, best regards.
+cherkezinho Thanks for that info. I will look into it. I just made another tong video and though the glare isn't as bad, it's still annoying. I will upload that video anyway... I appreciate you taking time to comment. Glen
Great video, started making mine today
Glad you like this. I hope you had success with your tongs. Thanks. Glen
If I could give more than 1 thumbs up, I would.
Wet gloves plus hot steel can easily equal steam burns... be vary careful there champ. Otherwise, very good video!! Thanks
Really clear explanation for the tongs. Did not get what type of steel you used for the tongs other than 1/2 dia.
+jeffery biddix The steel is 1018 mild steel. This is my preference for most tongs though I do sometimes use 1045 medium carbon steel. I constantly quench my tongs and with the mild steel, there's no worry of cracking. I forgot to mention this in the video so thanks. Glen
If Christopher Walkin was a black smith haha!! Idk if its intentional but I subscribed because of it
I remember that comment - not sure how accurate that is but good stuff. However I can gain a subscriber, it's all good with me. I'll continue to be the "Christopher Walken" of blacksmiths. Thanks. Glen
I see your lack of pants is serving you well, I too like to live dangerously :)
Amazing work man, keep it up!
+Drew Bywater When the weather really heats up here, you'd be lucky to see me with a shirt on when blacksmithing. Hence, I need to keep the camera angle as discreet as possible! But I always wear eye protection... Thanks for watching. Glen
Xd the heat is why i live north of 60 in the summer time...outdoor heat+forge is damn near unbearable (dare i say, un-bare-able? Xd)
Love the videos either way
i would use a slot punch then drift it round you will keep more material around the holes then admittedly not much more but that really depends on how thin you make the slot punch .
great work thank you for sharing
+Deuce 70 19701979 I appreciate you taking time to comment. Thanks. Glen
Stop apologizing, great video!
Shaun, Thanks for your support. I'll my best moving forward. Glen
One question, does the drift need to be bigger than the hot rivet so when it's flattened it won't bind the hinges on the tongs , wondered how tight is beneficial
Slightly bigger is OK but not absolutely necessary. If the hole you drift is almost exactly the size of your rivets, it will work, so long as the rivet can fit in when hot. When you rivet the tong blanks together, the rivet shank will upset some and cause the tongs to stick tightly together. At this point (while still hot), you can open and close the tong and this will wear the rivet to a good fit. Some people do this while simultaneously dunking in water, so as to not deform any surrounding parts. Thanks for watching. Glen
The rivet you used...was that just a roud piece of steel? trying to make a set of these this weekend
Yes, I made the rivet from a piece of round 8mm (~ 5/16"). You can head a rivet prior to joining the tong halves (as I normally do) or you can even do this while joining the tongs. To do it the latter way, you would be need to back up the side of the tong facing the anvil so that the round rivet stock can pass through but only to a point. Then once the top is peened over, you can turn over and peen the other side. I may show this in a future video, for those who don't want to pre-make rivets. Thanks for watching. Good luck in your work. Glen
What kind of anvils are they? Perfect work space.
+dunch88 The anvils are my own design. I couldn't find anything to suit my style of work and found the resources here to have anvils made to my own specs. All told, I had three styles made. They are great and I enjoy working on them everyday. Thanks for watching. Glen
Great video! Thanks for the lesson. Subscribed 👍
I'm glad you like this video. I will certainly do more tongs making videos and explain more clearly. Thanks for watching and for subscribing. Glen
Great work Glen Do you use a gas forge or a coal forge ? µBest regards from FRANCE
+ARGROAS 1 I currently use only gas. In the past, I only used coal. I used to live in the country and had a very traditional style shop. Now, I am in a big city and burning coal isn't an option. However, some blacksmiths here use forge coke (basically, purified coal). It's a great fuel but needs constant airflow to keep it burning. I am planning a quick video to discuss the advantages and disadvantages of coal and gas. Thanks for watching. Glen
Thanks for the video!I am new to this and would appreciate captions or audio saying what is happening when the workpiece goes out of frame. It might be obvious to a Smith, but not yet to me, thanks!
If you are willing, captions saying what an action's goal is - what you have in mind -would make it easier for me to make sense of what I am seeing - e.g. "squaring the jaws" or "flattening the pivot".
Thanks again for the video!
Scott, In some future tong making videos, I will explain out each step - what I'm doing and what techniques I'm employing. Thanks for watching. Glen
Scott Willis
Great video! I think i will try it soon :)
+knives&stuff Give it a try and let me know how your tongs come out. Thanks so much. Glen
What type of steel did you use? Was it tool or just hot roll round bar that may be bought at a hardware supply.
Danny, I used 1018 cold rolled mild steel for these tongs (not tool steel). I sometimes use 1045 medium carbon steel but 1018 is my preference. The stuff that you might find at a local hardware store is more likely to be A36 hot milled mild steel (construction type steel). That will work just fine but is a more inconsistent material when compared to cold rolled. Thanks for watching. Glen
What kind of forge do you use?seems like you're dipping the material into water then boom suddenly red hot
I'm Bored sounds like he is using a propane forge, keep in mind that he is working with two things at the time so when he is working on one of them the other is being heated and the water part is that he is cooling the parts that he is holding so he wont burn his hand.
Zaio Hellgren
didn't think of that haha
Yes, Zaio Hellgren is correct. I'm using a propane forge and when I take a tong blank out, I'm cooling the back end to make it so I can hold it longer (when using a glove) and also to not have certain areas deform when hammering. Since most tong balances are identical halves, I'm just rotating from one half to the other so the reheat time is fairly quick. Thanks to both of you and have a Happy New Year. Glen
Glen, great video, what diameter rivet are you using?
+Eric Joyce I use 8mm rod for my rivets. Thanks for watching. Glen
Easy peasy great work!
Thanks for watching and for your kind word. Glen
you said you use three hammers most of the time is there one that you generally prefer and why
+Deuce 70 19701979 I definitely prefer my shorter length, single face style hammers. Basically a shorter version of a cutler or dog ear hammer as some call it. I just prefer the feel when swinging. The mechanics of this style just seem different and easier on my arm. I also like my hammers to be of a medium hardness - not too hard. Might be a little slower moving steel but feels better to me. I will get a video of my preferred hammer in a future video. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen GS Tongs awesome thank you Glenn for the videos much appreciated
Nice video, thanks. Just a suggestion, there's a curl starting to form on the upper edge of the face on the hammer you used for most of the shaping of the tongs, I hope you've ground it off. Years ago I had a chip from a punch (not mine) fly off and get stuck in my cheek, needless to say I dress all my striking tools as soon as I see some deformity happening. Better my cheeks not my eye but I had a flake of rust stuck in my cornea another day. Yes I wear eye and face protection constantly. Be safe, thanks again.
James, very good observation. I was using that hammer (a super soft, engineer style hammer) for striking my top tools (punches, etc.) It's so soft, it only takes a week or two of use, after redressing, to mushroom significantly. And I started to get into the habit of using the other side for general forging because I really like using a "soft" hammer at times. Well, if you saw that hammer now, you would admonish me pretty badly. You're 100% right. It's just plain dangerous. The good news is that I've basically stopped using it. And if I use it again, I will grind it down. This hammer started at 3 pounds and I swear it's close to 2 pounds now! Thanks for the reminder. Glen
+Glen GS Tongs Two lbs remaining from three! You've gotten your money's worth. It's better to swing an extra time or two than to have to repair or re-dress something you're creating. Striking tools get consumed, no way around it.
I have your gillaten , and I love it
It looks to me like your anvils are nearly on the ground. Is this your preferred height?I see one bent knee in shorts I can only think the other knee is on the ground.May I ask your reasons behind this setup?
David, I sit while forging. In my limited space, I found it better for me to operate in this way. I am going to post a video soon showing this in detail since others have also inquired regarding this. Thanks for watching. Glen
That explains it. I'm glad your not kneeling :)
Should you heat treat your tongs?
Ethan, My tongs are made from 1018 mild steel so no heat is necessary (or even possible to any degree). I prefer tongs made from mild steel because they can be quenched over and over again without fear of cracking. Thanks for watching. Glen
Good video. can I ask where you got your anvil
Cameron, I designed and had these anvil made. I was having trouble finding an anvil that suited my work style and work space here in Taiwan and so took advantage of the resources available to me here. I made three different styles altogether and am planning a forth. I'm very pleased with these... Thanks for watching. Glen
What are you using to Mark hot steel? Chalk or soapstone??
I personally think chalk should work better
Nice! Is the rivet piece just a short piece of the same steel?
The rivet is the same style of steel (1018 mild steel) but is a smaller diameter. This tong is made from 13mm (~1/2") and the rivet is 8mm (~ 5/16"). Thanks for watching. I will definitely do more tong making videos and do more explaining in some of those. Glen
Wonderful as usual.
DO NOT dip your glove in water. Water will increase the speed of heat conduction through the glove.
Others have mentioned this and I don't doubt it. But I have still found that dipping my glove in water gives me extra time when handling hot pieces. Granted, I repeatedly dip in water which helps dissipate any heat buildup. But it can go from comfortable to unbearable rather quickly if I hold on too long. Anyway, I appreciate the advice. Glen
Wet gloves can lead to NASTY steam scalds. Bad advice.
Been considering getting back into smithing. long ago, many years and I'm still way too green to be considered anything but playing. One thing I noticed-you tend to hit on the hot off, a tap or two on the project then on one the side, iit that a habit and is there a reason for it or just something you do?
Tapping the anvil between strikes is basically a timing device - helps maintain a rhythm. But I mainly use this technique to give myself a second to examine the workpiece after some striking. But in my opinion, some people overuse this technique (almost one-to-one real strikes to hot off strikes, as you call it) and it becomes more of an unnecessary preparation to strike because the person is not exactly sure or because the person doesn't feel confident in his or her eye-hand coordination. Good luck in your blacksmithing and thanks for watching. Glen
I tend to do that with my 4 pound hammer, the bounce I get off the anvil makes lifting the hammer effortless and makes life easier after a few hours of swinging it.
it's a really hard hammer though, been abusing it for over a year while learning and the face has no real marks on it.
The half inch round stock... was it hot or cold rolled?
Steve, The stock I use for tong is cold rolled 1018. I will make a similar video but be sure to make it more instructional next time... Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen, What is the sizzling sound just before you bring the work piece to the anvil?
+Marc Aldrich That was him dipping the steel in water at one end so that he could hold it with a glove.
+Marc Aldrich Dylan has answered your question correctly. I am dipping the back end of the tong blanks in my slack tub to cool them so I can hold onto them while hammering (so as to not need a tong to make a tong). Assuming a blank is 12 inches long, I am cooling about 8 inches and leaving the front 4 inches at forging temp. I will show this in a future tong making video. Thanks for watching. Glen
+Dylan Waters Thanks Dylan. Appreciate you watching and taking time to comment. Glen
Very cool!! Thank you!
Glad you like this. I will show another simple but maybe ridiculous way too make a pair of tongs some time soon. Thanks.
Nice job.
+Don Motz Thanks for watching. I will definitely upload more tong making videos - different styles and methods of making tongs. Glen
I noticed that you sit for a lot of your work. I am just starting out and am wondering just how much difference in approach vs standing. I have difficulty standing for any length of time and was wondering if you could make any suggestions as to how to set things up.
hi glen, what type of steel are you using on this basic tong? A36?
what is your website address and great video
Phenomenal
+Dayostr Vladimere Very much appreciate that - thanks. Glen
first thing here, that is one cool anvil... WTF is it and where do i get one!
Thanks Ronnie, the anvil(s) are my own design which I had made in Taiwan, where I currently live. I needed something to suit my style of working - I like to use a compact anvil with a wider face. A horn isn't something I use too much but I do use the swage depressions (on my custom anvils), hardy and pritchel holes. And my anvils are hardened top to bottom so any face can be used. Check out my website for the specs on my latest and smallest anvil. Thanks for watching. Glen
And it's a coincidence that you mention the Jersey Turnpike - I just returned from a trip visiting family and drove just about the total length of it - heavy duty traffic on the northern end and noise level probably about the same as here. Thanks for watching. Glen
where did you get that anvil?
The block anvils you see are my own designs that I had made. All told, I had three different styles made and am very pleased with all. Thanks for watching. Glen
Informative video...subscribed
Glad you like this. Some have said they wished I could explain more (details) about the process and I will certainly do so in future videos. Thanks for watching and subscribing. Glen
great video. thanks for posting it, and has anyone ever told you that you sound like Christopher Walken?
I'm glad you like this video. I will do more tong making videos and some will be more instructional than this. Actually, you're the second person to make the comment that I sound like Christopher Walken so it must be true. Thanks for watching.
If you're getting glare issues, get a circular polarizer for your camera and it will get rid of it
That's a good suggestion. This video is fairly old and I have (mostly) rectified the glare issue. Now I just need to fix the audio, camera angle, editing, video content, and so on! Thanks for watching and for your suggestion. Glen
Is it just mild steel?
Whats the difference between a drift and a punch
A punch is normally used to make a hole, be that round, square, rectangular, etc. A drift is used to expand an already made hole to a certain size / shape. So, in some cases, they can be one and the same. That is, you can make a hole with a punch then continue to "drift" it to size with the same tool (assuming it's tapered the way you want). Or, you can have a separate drift that is tapered on two ends with the middle the size / shape you want the final hole to be. You heat the workpiece and hammer it straight through. With a punch, you normally cannot hammer it through but need to back it out to expel it from the hole since it's likely only tapered on one end. I hope this answers your question. Glen
Should the punch have a flat landing on the tip or a tapered point?
Rich, A flat landing would be the way to go. But it could be tapered to a point and still work, depending on the sort of hole you want to create. However, most punches should have crisp edges where the taper meets the very end, in order to cut as it penetrates. Thanks for watching. Glen
Glen GS Tongs thanks for the reply. I've messing about and found my way there.
I would not recommend dipping your gloves in water to deal with the heat, the steam will burn you with a quickness.
+FangBlah I never thought about it this way - getting burned by the steam is definitely possible. But I think since the end I'm holding becomes gradually hot, the chance of being burned is less. But if the price were already very hot and I used a wet glove then the chance of being burned by steam is definitely high. Thanks for sharing. Glen
why do you sometimes hit the anvil between hitting the work piece? Doesn't this just waste the effort of a hammer swing that could be doing work?
+Jim Cooper It's like an offbeat, it lets you inspect the work without losing your hammering rhythm. You'll notice it is a standard technique that noone really notices themselves doing
+Jim Cooper It's a technique that a lot of blacksmiths use and perhaps some overuse to the point of wasting effort. Basically, it allows me a second to examine the workpiece while not bringing my hammering to a dead stop, which could also be wasteful as momentum would be lost. It also helps create rhythm and when used properly can help enhance timing and accuracy and and so make hammering more efficient, in my opinion. Thanks for watching. Glen
+Henry Baltesz Thanks for watching and taking time to explain. Glen
Glen GS Tongs Great work, you have your own polished style and that makes it your very own technique. Very nice man-made tongs G-man
great teaching too, haven't done much except puttering around with the idea of making steel hot and forming into art like you've accomplished, thanks great video.
Thanks for your kind comment - I appreciate it. Good luck with your blacksmithing pursuit. The "G-man".
Could you dunk the tong blanks at the same time as your gloves? Avoiding having to use tongs to make tongs.
Caleb, Yes, depending on the length of the piece, that would be possible. It would give you some extra time before significant heat radiated to your hand. When I use a glove, I always soak it in water first for exactly this reason. Thanks. Glen
Great video!
I liked that u didn't explain every little thing. I think a lot would be either obvious or preference anyways
Jay, I'm glad you enjoy this video. Not everyone is fond of this style of not explaining every detail. To each his own, I guess... Thanks for watching. Glen
Did you make the rivet?
Yes, I make my own rivets. I did a video a long while back on that but maybe I'll do another. Thanks for watching.
Forging with shorts. Genius.....
It's just way too hot and humid here in Taiwan during half of the year. I know some people will say this is unsafe and to that point I couldn't argue. But if I wore long pants, it would be extremely uncomfortable and to me, this could pose a bigger safety hazard since I could lose focus from the discomfort. No matter, thanks for watching. Glen
hawkdaddy64 whats wrong with it?
Where do you get your metal?
Where did you get the anvils? I'm starting out and still need to make or buy an anvil.
The hornless anvils you see me using are my own designs which I had made here in Taiwan, where I live. For someone starting out, buying an anvil would probably make more sense. But if you're sure of what you want and have the resources available to get it done, then getting a custom anvil made is an option. Thanks for watching. Glen
If you back punch at a lower heat, the slug will shear off cleaner. You could have punched these in one heat instead of two.
+gnewsch Many times when the slug does not come out cleanly, I've found it's often due to the edge of business end of my punch not being crisp enough (edges get slightly rounded after repeated use) or my alignment (top and bottom) isn't quite on, or a combination of both. Thanks for your input about punching at a lower heat from the back side. In my mind that would seem to make sense given that the steel would not "give" at a lesser heat making it shear more cleanly. I'll give it a go. Good advice. Thanks. Glen
Hey Whats your website i Want to buy some of your tools
Thank for your interest in my work. My website is:
www.gstongs.com
Let me know if you can't find it or if you have any questions. And thanks for watching. Glen - glen03@earthlink.net
What about wolf jaw tongs?
How far up did you flatten the round stock an how far for the hole
John, With this tong, I just approximated. I would say I flattened three inches of the round bar and punched the hole about two inches from the end of the jaws.
What anvil are you using?
James, The block style anvils you see me using are my own designs which I had made here in Taiwan. Thanks for watching. Glen
yo.. I'm about to do my first forging but I don't really have steel around.. I really need to make tongs.. can they be made out of iron?
Aimwork in wrought iron yes, cast iron, not happening
who's man? Any idea how to figure out steel from iron.. I gave a lot of rusted stuff around but I can't know unless I grtvthe rust out..do you have like a go-to for steel? Like ,,tools are aleays made of steel" or something?
Aimwork in any mild steel is fine for forging, If you have steel laying around its most likely mild steel. To tell steel and iron apart is to just hit it with a hammer when it's at a forging temp and if it chips or crumbles it is cast iron
Aimwork in rebar is fine if you have it laying around. I go to tractor supply or any hardware store and buy steel for what I want to make
Thanks a lot man! I am glad people answer comments these days :)
Btw, I watch you all the way from Romania!
is that stainless steel
It's 1018 cold rolled mild steel. It does look pretty similar to stainless steel though - it's almost impossible to tell just by eye... Thanks for watching. Glen