Thank you for your video, I was understanding why so many people said the xpedo cxr is easy to install with no tricks. I had the same issue as you and I understand what you're doing. it's not perfect but just as good as it can be.
The troubleshooting is really useful. Thanks. Do you know what bearings I need to buy in order to replace bearings? (I accidentally bent one and had to use one of the old Assioma bearings to stop it grinding).
Thanks I have bought the spindle only version of the Assioma duo Shil and they already come with the rubber o-ring on them. I am also unable to tighten them without the binding friction so will also take your route too I guess. Thanks for the video it has given me some confidence to move forward.
Thank you so much! This is a great video addressing exactly the problems that I'm facing right now in '22 trying to do the coversion. Such a detailed video, great! Thank you
@@biketoshi5348 No none. The only issue is with the fit of the shoes. I have been very pleased with the hack. I switch them between my gravel bike and MTB.
Thanks a lot - great insight! I just ordered an Assioma spindle (just the spindle, not the pedal body) and Xpedo CXRs. With the Assioma spindle I presume that I won’t have the washer that you opted to put on the inside. Would there be some extra HW needed as long as you only have an Assioma spindle?
can you advise the inner diameter on the pedal body for checking outer diameter of a suitable 9mm thin wall socket? ...and the outer diameter of tool you used? thanks for a good video explaining the procedure in detail
Here is a link to the socket I purchased www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AXTJSGK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title. Outside diameter of the socket is 12mm and the socket wall thickness is 2mm.
Thank you for this video. I had concerns about bearing wear too, so it’s good to know there is a combination that works. I’m also wondering how much shoe clearance there is to the pod. Have you found this an issue? If you get chance, could you possibly measure from the pod to the centre of the clip/pedal body, please?
You are welcome. Yes the shoe clearance can be an issue. I have Fizik shoes and I did not need to modify them. I measured approx. 38mm from the pod to the middle of the pedal.
Thank you for the video. These pedals were originally designed for road use. I'm thinking about mechanical strength - how do the sensors withstand impacts against rocks and roots? Does anyone have this experience?
I switch them between my gravel and XC bikes. They have stood up well to the occasional impact. That said if you expect lots of impacts it is certainly a risk you take and for peace of mind there are now off road specific products available that were not available previously. I will let others add there experiences. Best of luck.
Put the washer in the oven at 80 degree Celsius for 5 min. You will have a difference of sizing of metal at 20 degree the body and the one from oven at 80 which should fit without any tools.
@Harry Spatz, I used piece of wood and gentle hammer to remove washer, it was easy. The it was difficult to find the right torque : too tight the pedal don't move freely, not tight enough it is unbold. Then I read that I should apply thread locker (blue glue) and now it is perfectly free and also don't go away.
I just did this to mine but with another set of MTB pedals (Wellgo M19), which fits perfectly, however afterwards installation and calibration, the power values seem quite a lot lower, especially while riding out of the saddle. Did you do a test and how did you do the calibration? Same as normal? I am really confused how that could happen...
That is strange as the power meter is in the unit and should not be influenced by the pedal. I have both road and the hacked MTB version that are reading correctly. I just calibrate as normal. Have you tried switching back to see if that changes the reading back. If it does that would be curious but if it does not then it is likely the power meter. Also check you have the latest firmware. Good luck and let me know what you find.
@@maxlifeoutcycling9284 my latest theory is that someone the MTB pedal body has caused some further tightening of the pedal shaft onto the crank arm, that the angle has shifted. And this result in a false torque calculation because the pedals think the center of the crank is somewhere else. Which might also explain why standing up is not accurate, because the force is applied at a different place around the pedal stroke. Further more, I have used a Wellgo M19. This has a DU bushing instead of ball bearings, which might not be great because it may wear down the pedal shaft over a long period of time, therefore find MTB bodies with ball bearings only would be better.
Hi, no the nut has not come loose for me on either pedal. I check them them when I maintenance the bike and occasionally when I switch them between bikes.
Thank you for your video, I was understanding why so many people said the xpedo cxr is easy to install with no tricks. I had the same issue as you and I understand what you're doing. it's not perfect but just as good as it can be.
The troubleshooting is really useful. Thanks. Do you know what bearings I need to buy in order to replace bearings? (I accidentally bent one and had to use one of the old Assioma bearings to stop it grinding).
Unfortunately I don't. I would recommend contacting the companies support team. Best of luck.
Thanks I have bought the spindle only version of the Assioma duo Shil and they already come with the rubber o-ring on them. I am also unable to tighten them without the binding friction so will also take your route too I guess. Thanks for the video it has given me some confidence to move forward.
Thank you so much! This is a great video addressing exactly the problems that I'm facing right now in '22 trying to do the coversion. Such a detailed video, great! Thank you
Thank you and you are welcome. I am glad it was helpful.
@@maxlifeoutcycling9284 btw: Did you experience any squeak or discomfort compared to regular Shimano SPD pedals?
@@biketoshi5348 No none. The only issue is with the fit of the shoes. I have been very pleased with the hack. I switch them between my gravel bike and MTB.
That's good to hear. Will know soon if I'll need to trim my shoes. Can't wait to test it on my gravel bike. Thanks again and have a nice day!
Thanks a lot - great insight! I just ordered an Assioma spindle (just the spindle, not the pedal body) and Xpedo CXRs. With the Assioma spindle I presume that I won’t have the washer that you opted to put on the inside. Would there be some extra HW needed as long as you only have an Assioma spindle?
can you advise the inner diameter on the pedal body for checking outer diameter of a suitable 9mm thin wall socket? ...and the outer diameter of tool you used? thanks for a good video explaining the procedure in detail
Here is a link to the socket I purchased www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AXTJSGK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title. Outside diameter of the socket is 12mm and the socket wall thickness is 2mm.
Thank you for this video. I had concerns about bearing wear too, so it’s good to know there is a combination that works. I’m also wondering how much shoe clearance there is to the pod. Have you found this an issue? If you get chance, could you possibly measure from the pod to the centre of the clip/pedal body, please?
You are welcome. Yes the shoe clearance can be an issue. I have Fizik shoes and I did not need to modify them. I measured approx. 38mm from the pod to the middle of the pedal.
@@maxlifeoutcycling9284 Thank you again. I feel much better informed about the hack using these pedals now.
@@brianlaycock I wish you well with your research and decision.
Thank you for the video. These pedals were originally designed for road use. I'm thinking about mechanical strength - how do the sensors withstand impacts against rocks and roots? Does anyone have this experience?
I switch them between my gravel and XC bikes. They have stood up well to the occasional impact. That said if you expect lots of impacts it is certainly a risk you take and for peace of mind there are now off road specific products available that were not available previously. I will let others add there experiences. Best of luck.
Put the washer in the oven at 80 degree Celsius for 5 min. You will have a difference of sizing of metal at 20 degree the body and the one from oven at 80 which should fit without any tools.
@Harry Spatz, I used piece of wood and gentle hammer to remove washer, it was easy. The it was difficult to find the right torque : too tight the pedal don't move freely, not tight enough it is unbold. Then I read that I should apply thread locker (blue glue) and now it is perfectly free and also don't go away.
I just tried with the right (non power meter) side of favero uno and it works. Thank you very much for video. I was loosing hope for this hack ;).
You are welcome. I am glad it worked out for you.
Thanks, how long did it last?
They are still going strong.
I just did this to mine but with another set of MTB pedals (Wellgo M19), which fits perfectly, however afterwards installation and calibration, the power values seem quite a lot lower, especially while riding out of the saddle. Did you do a test and how did you do the calibration? Same as normal? I am really confused how that could happen...
That is strange as the power meter is in the unit and should not be influenced by the pedal. I have both road and the hacked MTB version that are reading correctly. I just calibrate as normal. Have you tried switching back to see if that changes the reading back. If it does that would be curious but if it does not then it is likely the power meter. Also check you have the latest firmware. Good luck and let me know what you find.
@@maxlifeoutcycling9284 my latest theory is that someone the MTB pedal body has caused some further tightening of the pedal shaft onto the crank arm, that the angle has shifted. And this result in a false torque calculation because the pedals think the center of the crank is somewhere else. Which might also explain why standing up is not accurate, because the force is applied at a different place around the pedal stroke. Further more, I have used a Wellgo M19. This has a DU bushing instead of ball bearings, which might not be great because it may wear down the pedal shaft over a long period of time, therefore find MTB bodies with ball bearings only would be better.
Have you found that the nut has come loose at any point after applying the thread lock?
Hi, no the nut has not come loose for me on either pedal. I check them them when I maintenance the bike and occasionally when I switch them between bikes.
Hi, thanks for sharing, one question os safe and It'll not come off ir loosen the nut?
You are welcome. That was a concern I had. To date I have had no problem. It is a valid risk and I check it as part of routine maintenance.
hey i was wondering if it is possible to put keo carbon blade body on assioma axle?
Hi, I have not tried those.
What kind of grease do you use for the axle?
I used Park Tools PPL-2
@@matthewmack2636 thanks so much
Hi!
It's compatible with all Xpedo SPD models?
Thanks for your return. ;)
I think you are asking is it compatible with all Xpedo SPD models. Unfortunately I don’t know as this was the model my research confirmed.
@@maxlifeoutcycling9284 thanks Max. 👍🏻
I have tried with Xpedo M3 but did not work beause there is no bearing on the outside, where the nut goes