The only reason I haven't bought an Assioma Duo is because I'm waiting/hoping for them to release an SPD-SL one using the new Pro spindle, as I don't want the extra Q-factor of the Duo-Shi.
Assioma Pro MX is the solution period. It simply works, measures correctly, comes at a reasonable price, provides double-sided click-in, and is usable with shoes one can actually walk with. But that's just my opinion.
i'm waiting for the MX Pro in a road body. As an aside, since the Q-factor is so minimally different, the Sonik hack would make for a really light single sided power meter setup.
Something that I`ve learnt from my bike mech is to not use torque wrench for undoing bolts and to to avoid even using it for tightening (basically just use it for the final bit). Great vid!
Same for me: - one pair of Assioma Xpedo conversion to MTB pedals - one pair of Assiamo with orginal Keo-compatible pedals Switching them between road bike, gravel bike and tri bike as need be.
This is the very what I waited for！ I had used Shimano Blue cleat on pd-r9100 and swapped to assioma duo(Look cleat) for accuracy of powermeter with compromising good feeling of blue one. Nice report and thanks from Japan🇯🇵.
you could try putting an o ring in between the pedal body and spindle. it might be tight at first but it will rub down being a softer material. with some grease to help the o ring would supply a nice seal.
What I discovered about the Assiomas, is the outside bearing provides the lateral restraint. The two inside bearing actually 'float'. Originally I thought both in/out bearings were tightened against the pedal/axle to provide a firm, no looseness, lateral restraint. So at 18:00 the inside bearing is not being pressed against the pedal body. The outer cap is essential to stop the play. I discovered this fact when sorting out some play in a pedal. Originally, I thought the end nut was loose. It wasn't. But with the end cap removed, there was a lot of play. What I discovered the end cap was loose. When I tightened it, the play disappeared.
YES, YES, YES. I would like to buy an Assioma dual power meter with the MX Pro body and the SPD SL pedal. I need to replace my recalled Stages Shimano crankset.
I've been running Assioma duo for 3 years. Very happy. Even put them on my new Giant that comes with a crank based PM. I thought I'd go to SPD-SL but can't prize myself away from the Favero
Using the duo's with the default Look body and works fine for me tbh. I do hope Favero will launch an update to the duo's with the same spindle as they are using on the Pro MX pedals. If they could make those in a way that you'd be able to swap whichever pedalbody from Favero you want (SPD, Look or SPD-SL) that would be epic.
I have the Shi for a few years now, but I look forward to Assioma's revised version of it with no or at least much smaller pod. It's always worrying something's going to rub against it.
(re-posting this because I may have come across the video while it was not out yet but still reachable from the power meter playlist) I'm still waiting for the Holly Graal to buy my first power meter. And I would definitely buy a SPD-SL version of the PRO MX. Thanks for your work Shane !
I used to use Shimano SPD-SL pedals for a few years before Iast year made the switch to Favero Assioma DUO and Look style cleats with that. To be honest, I prefer the latter ones. I even bought a set of Xpedo Thrust NXL for the road rides on my cyclocross bike (the powermeter there being the Magene PES P505 Base). I would really like to see a road powermeter based on that Assioma PRO spindle, be that Look or Shimano style, with ability to officialy swap the pedal bodies between road and MTB - I'd be among the first ones in the line for a set.
Not sure whether I’d use these without the dust caps. I have the original Look-compatible Assioma’s and replaced the bearings a couple of weeks ago. One of the two inside bearings must have been extremely worn. Dirt had also gathered in the (tight) space between the spindle and the bearings. When I removed the spindle, the bearing disintegrated completely , leaving the inner race stuck on the spindle. Tried WD40 and plenty of elbow grease, I even resorted to some delicate “dremeling” in order to release the tension on the race. In the end it did loosen and I could replace the bearings. The lesson I learnt was that I need to clean them more often. In your case: if you’re going to use this hack in damp conditions, be prepared to regularly check and clean/replace the bearings.
S you said of others, changing from SPD-SL to Look Keo compatible, I have Garmin Vector 3. I like the clean lines of a standard looking pedal without pods, etc. If I didn't have these I would be interested in the pro-spindle if they were road pedals.
Maybe we're fortunate in our physical builds and adaptability, maybe addtional Q isn't such a big deal. Either way, I'm another happy user of the Duo-Shi who noticed nothing significant when going from a standard Ultegra pedal body to the added spread. And I am probably one of the shorter male riders out there, so it's not like I shouldn't notice it more.
@@MannBazza maybe there just isn't one single truth that applies to every rider out there. totally happy for you if you can ride whatever you're given with no issues but that doesn't mean everyone else's concerns are unwarranted or their problems are made up
@@RedshiftDougal this won't even necessarily correlate with height - if you're short with tight hips, wide hips, bowed legs, ... you may very well even be better off with the wider Q
To answer your question, Shane; I might do this conversion to my GF's pedals soon. So, yes, still looking for that Holy Grail (that isn't Garmin expensive)
I use SPDs anyway, so the Assioma Pro MX is fine by me. Well, it would be, except I'm using the Magene P505 spider base with the PES crank and some regular Shimano ED-500 SPDs; at half the cost of the Assiomas.
I'm currently on a Quarq/SRAM Powermeter (fixed on chainring..) that came with the bike, but would prefer a pedal based one in order to be able to swap between bikes/chainrings. Given I've only ever heard positive things about Favero (products and service), I'd limit myself to that company - so a road version of the Pro-MX would be an instant buy for me. And I very much assume it's in the works (🤞) - thus I'm waiting. I'm also curious if it'd be SPD-SL and/or Look when/if a road version of the Pro-MX comes out.
First of all: great video. Unpopular opinion. I don't understand why so many people prefer SPD-SL to Keo. Both systems are pretty much the same. I have bikes with both systems and there are really very few differences. The days of Keo's creaking are also years behind us.
Thanks for this Shane, I'd be up for trying this on my Duo's. I've already tried using a Dremel to hack away at some SPD-SL cleats to try to get them to fit the Duo's, it didn't go well!
I was able to get the Xpedo washer of the spindle quite easily, but also with that washer it does not fit and the body will no turn anymore. So I'm also riding without the washer/endcap.
My experience with Garmin Rally XC200 has not been great - and I'm guessing comments like mine here is probably the reason for low sales. I'm on my 2nd set under warranty and these already have condensation inside the battery compartment, so I'm not sure how long they will last. Both sets only zero 50% of the time and are a constant source of pre-ride anxiety. These have only been used on a touring/commute bike - so no hard MTB type use. Other than reliability - the battery is a big negative - the recommended 2xLR44 size is difficult to source. I have used Assioma Duo and Wahoo Speedplay on my road bike for a while now - both are significantly better. I will be looking at the Assioma ProMX soon.
If favero does release pedals with no pod (like the new off-road) and spd-sl compatible and no restrictions on q-factor they kill the pedal base powermeter. It's monopoly for them, case closed. Edited: ok... i've commented prior to the end of the video. I wouldn't go for garmin because favero is just so reliable. Why mess with that trust!? As for spd-sl... those shimano cleats are way better, that's a fact. If having to buy a new pedal and the spd-sl would be a no-limitation option, those would be the ones I'd choose.
Garmin rs200 here. Bought it on sale for ~800 EUR. Rode 3.3k and 1.5 years later - only 1 battery change before the summer season. All good overall, my only minor complaint is that it prompts you before each ride to calibrate the pedals - which takes around 20 seconds to complete and not always from the first attempt (takes 2-3 attempts).
You can switch that prompt off in the sensor settings on the Edge unit. The Rally do have an auto-calibration that'll occur ~4 minutes after they stop moving (and you're unclipped).
Big thumbs down for the Rally RS200. Easy install - not really (pedal wrench only and incredibly torque sensitive) Accuracy - way out compared to Assioma Duos and Kickr V5 Battery - changing those coin cell batteries are a pain in the rear Gotta love the Faveros even with the Look cleats.
@@saracen888 That's interesting. Compared to my S-Works Power cranks (4iiii), they're reading consistently 10-12 watts lower. I want to compare against a third meter to understand which of the two are likely off.
I'm literally waiting for the SPD-SL on the pro spindles to come out. I'm convinced that's their next release. May be wishful thinking... If they come out, I'll snap them up in a second.
I think the issue with the Garmin product line is that its super expensive and uses batteries. For SPD, I just used the Assioma DUO Shi with Shimano SPD, was less than half the price of getting the Garmin SPD pedals.
Assioma duos with Look pedals currently... but would love to have the Shimano SPD pedals. Not worth the hack, but I would buy the internal pro version with SPD and move the current duos to my trainer second bike via the hack.
Worth noting- the actual Look cleat wears incredibly quickly. Shimano cleats last me two seasons. I'd be interested in the Assimodo meters with a Dura Ace body!
In my road bike I have a Quarq powermeter in my SRAM Force AXS D1 - which is great, but has the catch that if I trade my bike, I loose the PM or have to buy another one. Also, there are some chainrings incompatibilities. With all of that in consideration when buying the next road bike it's likely that i would opt for a PM pedal and Assioma are the way to go. But since I ride with shimano cleats, I guess i will have to change to look systema. But if Favero develops the PRO-MX road version, that will be veeeery nice
After experimenting with the Duo spindles in Ultegra bodies, and having my Stages sent to Shimano grinder hell (heaven?), I gave up and got the Rallys (three weeks before they went on sale!). So far 'Happy Days'? 🤷🏻♂ It's been interesting looking at all that data from rides. 😵💫 Over the Great Pandemic, I killed a pair of Speedplay pedals. All that sweat got past their o-ring on the inside and all the bearings were completely gone. (Rusted, seized, tetanus hazards) Riding indoors without a good seal is not a great idea. (They were pre-buyout pedals too) I was using noise cancelling buds and apparently missed the screeching of those bearings dying until I noticed the play had gotten wider. .
I've been riding the Look-style cleats since the Favero BePro came out in... 2016? Regarding the cleats, I've been a happy camper. So maybe a stupid question: Why are many riders so insistent on getting Shimano cleats to work with Favero pedals? Is the difference really that great? I have no experience with SPD-SL.
If you can get me the exact measurement of both spindles, the internal of the bodys, and them dust caps, i could possibly make ones that fit the hacked pedals.
I had a bad experience with this hack! So I bough my Favero one a few years ago and the body snapped like 6 months later. Since I’m in Argentina, I had no way of contacting support so I decided to switch the bodies for the Xpedos road bodies… it worked fine for like 3 months and then the power meter stopped turning once once it turned off due to inactivity, so I had tho change the time for it to turn off after 30 mins of inactivity… it kind of worked for a few months but the the pedal just started to turn off in the middle of the ride, up to the point where they turn off right after I start pedaling 😢 two years fighting with those problems and now I just use them as a regular pair of pedals with no power meter ( I managed to get on original Favero body but it still doesn’t work)
I am 194cm and got myself Shi version (Q factor is great for me). And yes, I have terrible play and new bearings work fine for 1000km. Actually I am confused about what to do next. I will probably make a hack with MTB 520 pedal bodies and move Duo Shiz to my MTB bike. But what should I buy for my road bike? 🤷🏼♂️
Converted to Look because of the Assiomas, can't really tell much different to SPD-SL now, so as long as these keep working I'm not really interested in converting back to Shimano.
I'm still looking for a hack to use the Assioma DUO with SPD that has a larger body, like a flat cage with SPD. Going to buy the SONIK GFX or AMBIX to try it out is a bit too costly for me.
I've been waiting for this review, thank you so much. Do you know the bearing dimensions? Maybe you can find bearings with 1mm or 2mm less width, so you can also fit the dust cap.
@@gplama Is the 686-2RS bearing the inside (closer to BB) bearing? If so the 6700-2RS bearings can be replaced by using a non sealed (open) version of this bearing (6700 W3) saving 2mm in total for each pedal and allowing the dust cap to fit. The dust cap + the inner 2RS bearing should provide enough protection. Afaik pedal bearings often don't use seals at all (a lot of the total friction is actually caused by the seal).
@@LKal564 Nice, please report back. Make sure to use a proper amount of grease on the sealed outer bearing (especially on the outside ring where it makes contact) to keep dust and grime out.
@gplama Initially you tried to use the thicker endcap from the Sonik, but when that was not removable, how was the solution to remove the endcap altogether and not add a 1mm washer?
@@gplama I know, that much was clear. But why not ADD a 1mm washer to the Assioma one (and making it as wide as the Sonik one), and instead removing it altogether?
@@gplama ok, I was under the impression that the problem was not the spindle length and that the washer/endcap, if thicker, would have prevented the pedal body to touch the spindle body and thus prevent the locking. I still think this would be a nice thing to try.
Maybe the pedals are outdoor only because of the way most non cyclists pedal on a stationary bike. Like in a spin class where you use your bodyweight to bob up and down on the pedals 😂
This limit is for the titanium spindle version of the Sonik pedals, which gets replaced by the assioma spindle is this mod. If you wanna do this mod, then just buy the Cr-Mo version.
I had a bad experience with this hack! So I bough my Favero one a few years ago and the body snapped like 6 months later. Since I’m in Argentina, I had no way of contacting support so I decided to switch the bodies for the Xpedos road bodies… it worked fine for like 3 months and then the power meter stopped turning once once it turned off due to inactivity, so I had tho change the time for it to turn off after 30 mins of inactivity… it kind of worked for a few months but the the pedal just started to turn off in the middle of the ride, up to the point where they turn off right after I start pedaling 😢 two years fighting with those problems and now I just use them as a regular pair of pedals with no power meter ( I managed to get on original Favero body but it still doesn’t work)
I knew I could count on you to dive into this❤ Don’t know how many questions I got about this mod from the power meter mob.
The only reason I haven't bought an Assioma Duo is because I'm waiting/hoping for them to release an SPD-SL one using the new Pro spindle, as I don't want the extra Q-factor of the Duo-Shi.
+1 or a conversion kit for the ones who already have the pro mx 👏
Will they ever release this item, though??
Same
Assioma Pro MX is the solution period. It simply works, measures correctly, comes at a reasonable price, provides double-sided click-in, and is usable with shoes one can actually walk with. But that's just my opinion.
YES, it's the SPD-SL version with the new spindle I'm waiting for.... PLEASE Assioma, make it so!
i'm waiting for the MX Pro in a road body. As an aside, since the Q-factor is so minimally different, the Sonik hack would make for a really light single sided power meter setup.
Something that I`ve learnt from my bike mech is to not use torque wrench for undoing bolts and to to avoid even using it for tightening (basically just use it for the final bit).
Great vid!
Assioma's for everyone, hear hear. Also, would love to see some kind of collab between you and Tobias. Bikenerds unite!
I'm still riding with my original Xpedo hack. Love them.
Same for me:
- one pair of Assioma Xpedo conversion to MTB pedals
- one pair of Assiamo with orginal Keo-compatible pedals
Switching them between road bike, gravel bike and tri bike as need be.
removing the dust cap = weight savings. I see this as a win!
I'd frankly buy a road version of the Assioma PRO on principle - regardless of cleat system.
Hopefully Favero will release a new road pedal soon with the MX spindle design.
This is the very what I waited for！
I had used Shimano Blue cleat on pd-r9100 and swapped to assioma duo(Look cleat) for accuracy of powermeter with compromising good feeling of blue one.
Nice report and thanks from Japan🇯🇵.
you could try putting an o ring in between the pedal body and spindle. it might be tight at first but it will rub down being a softer material. with some grease to help the o ring would supply a nice seal.
What I discovered about the Assiomas, is the outside bearing provides the lateral restraint. The two inside bearing actually 'float'. Originally I thought both in/out bearings were tightened against the pedal/axle to provide a firm, no looseness, lateral restraint. So at 18:00 the inside bearing is not being pressed against the pedal body. The outer cap is essential to stop the play. I discovered this fact when sorting out some play in a pedal. Originally, I thought the end nut was loose. It wasn't. But with the end cap removed, there was a lot of play. What I discovered the end cap was loose. When I tightened it, the play disappeared.
YES, YES, YES. I would like to buy an Assioma dual power meter with the MX Pro body and the SPD SL pedal. I need to replace my recalled Stages Shimano crankset.
I've been running Assioma duo for 3 years. Very happy. Even put them on my new Giant that comes with a crank based PM. I thought I'd go to SPD-SL but can't prize myself away from the Favero
I never thought I'd see a reference to ROJ on a GPLama video !
huh not sure if this is a joke or not 👀
Using the duo's with the default Look body and works fine for me tbh. I do hope Favero will launch an update to the duo's with the same spindle as they are using on the Pro MX pedals. If they could make those in a way that you'd be able to swap whichever pedalbody from Favero you want (SPD, Look or SPD-SL) that would be epic.
I have the Shi for a few years now, but I look forward to Assioma's revised version of it with no or at least much smaller pod. It's always worrying something's going to rub against it.
(re-posting this because I may have come across the video while it was not out yet but still reachable from the power meter playlist)
I'm still waiting for the Holly Graal to buy my first power meter.
And I would definitely buy a SPD-SL version of the PRO MX.
Thanks for your work Shane !
I used to use Shimano SPD-SL pedals for a few years before Iast year made the switch to Favero Assioma DUO and Look style cleats with that. To be honest, I prefer the latter ones. I even bought a set of Xpedo Thrust NXL for the road rides on my cyclocross bike (the powermeter there being the Magene PES P505 Base). I would really like to see a road powermeter based on that Assioma PRO spindle, be that Look or Shimano style, with ability to officialy swap the pedal bodies between road and MTB - I'd be among the first ones in the line for a set.
Minor trade-off: conversion from SPD-SL to Look. I love my Favero Assioma Duo and Uno!
Not sure whether I’d use these without the dust caps. I have the original Look-compatible Assioma’s and replaced the bearings a couple of weeks ago. One of the two inside bearings must have been extremely worn. Dirt had also gathered in the (tight) space between the spindle and the bearings. When I removed the spindle, the bearing disintegrated completely , leaving the inner race stuck on the spindle. Tried WD40 and plenty of elbow grease, I even resorted to some delicate “dremeling” in order to release the tension on the race. In the end it did loosen and I could replace the bearings. The lesson I learnt was that I need to clean them more often. In your case: if you’re going to use this hack in damp conditions, be prepared to regularly check and clean/replace the bearings.
Just did this yesterday - love the standard Q factor + using SPD cleats. Look cleats wear out and make strange sounds too much...
S you said of others, changing from SPD-SL to Look Keo compatible, I have Garmin Vector 3. I like the clean lines of a standard looking pedal without pods, etc. If I didn't have these I would be interested in the pro-spindle if they were road pedals.
I opted for the Assioma Duo-Shi’s and after about 10 minutes in the saddle I forgot about the q-factor difference.
Yep. Absolutely agree, think everyone has gone totally overboard worrying about that.
Maybe we're fortunate in our physical builds and adaptability, maybe addtional Q isn't such a big deal. Either way, I'm another happy user of the Duo-Shi who noticed nothing significant when going from a standard Ultegra pedal body to the added spread. And I am probably one of the shorter male riders out there, so it's not like I shouldn't notice it more.
@@MannBazza maybe there just isn't one single truth that applies to every rider out there. totally happy for you if you can ride whatever you're given with no issues but that doesn't mean everyone else's concerns are unwarranted or their problems are made up
@@RedshiftDougal this won't even necessarily correlate with height - if you're short with tight hips, wide hips, bowed legs, ... you may very well even be better off with the wider Q
The q-factor did make a difference, made it more comfortable for my feet during rides 😉
To answer your question, Shane; I might do this conversion to my GF's pedals soon. So, yes, still looking for that Holy Grail (that isn't Garmin expensive)
Yep, still looking for this. Tempted to try this for my track bike.
I use SPDs anyway, so the Assioma Pro MX is fine by me. Well, it would be, except I'm using the Magene P505 spider base with the PES crank and some regular Shimano ED-500 SPDs; at half the cost of the Assiomas.
I still do not trust the garmin pedals. Your hack seems like the best pedal solution out there.
I'm currently on a Quarq/SRAM Powermeter (fixed on chainring..) that came with the bike, but would prefer a pedal based one in order to be able to swap between bikes/chainrings.
Given I've only ever heard positive things about Favero (products and service), I'd limit myself to that company - so a road version of the Pro-MX would be an instant buy for me. And I very much assume it's in the works (🤞) - thus I'm waiting.
I'm also curious if it'd be SPD-SL and/or Look when/if a road version of the Pro-MX comes out.
First of all: great video.
Unpopular opinion. I don't understand why so many people prefer SPD-SL to Keo. Both systems are pretty much the same. I have bikes with both systems and there are really very few differences. The days of Keo's creaking are also years behind us.
Thanks for this Shane, I'd be up for trying this on my Duo's. I've already tried using a Dremel to hack away at some SPD-SL cleats to try to get them to fit the Duo's, it didn't go well!
I was able to get the Xpedo washer of the spindle quite easily, but also with that washer it does not fit and the body will no turn anymore. So I'm also riding without the washer/endcap.
My experience with Garmin Rally XC200 has not been great - and I'm guessing comments like mine here is probably the reason for low sales. I'm on my 2nd set under warranty and these already have condensation inside the battery compartment, so I'm not sure how long they will last. Both sets only zero 50% of the time and are a constant source of pre-ride anxiety. These have only been used on a touring/commute bike - so no hard MTB type use. Other than reliability - the battery is a big negative - the recommended 2xLR44 size is difficult to source. I have used Assioma Duo and Wahoo Speedplay on my road bike for a while now - both are significantly better. I will be looking at the Assioma ProMX soon.
Assioma warranty is so good 🔥🔥🔥🔥 and yes I'd do this hack if i can find those xpedo in stock 😅
If favero does release pedals with no pod (like the new off-road) and spd-sl compatible and no restrictions on q-factor they kill the pedal base powermeter. It's monopoly for them, case closed.
Edited: ok... i've commented prior to the end of the video. I wouldn't go for garmin because favero is just so reliable. Why mess with that trust!? As for spd-sl... those shimano cleats are way better, that's a fact. If having to buy a new pedal and the spd-sl would be a no-limitation option, those would be the ones I'd choose.
See what happens when you take Shane's Legos away from him?
hahahhahh! That's so relevant. Little llama is now the owner of all the Lego here, so I'm in the Lama Lab tinkering with bike parts.
Garmin rs200 here. Bought it on sale for ~800 EUR. Rode 3.3k and 1.5 years later - only 1 battery change before the summer season. All good overall, my only minor complaint is that it prompts you before each ride to calibrate the pedals - which takes around 20 seconds to complete and not always from the first attempt (takes 2-3 attempts).
You can switch that prompt off in the sensor settings on the Edge unit. The Rally do have an auto-calibration that'll occur ~4 minutes after they stop moving (and you're unclipped).
I went the Garmin route. Expensive but unlike the Dura Ace 9100P that they replaced, accurate.
Big thumbs down for the Rally RS200.
Easy install - not really (pedal wrench only and incredibly torque sensitive)
Accuracy - way out compared to Assioma Duos and Kickr V5
Battery - changing those coin cell batteries are a pain in the rear
Gotta love the Faveros even with the Look cleats.
@saracen888 In your experience, are the RS200 reading high or low, compared to your other meters?
My experience with the RS200 has been quite disappointing. Even when installed using a torque wrench, it lacks both accuracy and consistency.
@@tbone-ip5fi commonly overreading, by a big margin.
@@saracen888 That's interesting. Compared to my S-Works Power cranks (4iiii), they're reading consistently 10-12 watts lower. I want to compare against a third meter to understand which of the two are likely off.
I have the RS200, but would be very interested in jumping over to Favero if they release a SPD-SL version with in-spindle electronics.
They already do… Assimo shi then just fit your shimano SPD SL pedals
@@xS0CIAL0UTCASTx The electronics in those are in the pod next to the pedal, not in the spindle.
I'm literally waiting for the SPD-SL on the pro spindles to come out. I'm convinced that's their next release. May be wishful thinking... If they come out, I'll snap them up in a second.
I think the issue with the Garmin product line is that its super expensive and uses batteries. For SPD, I just used the Assioma DUO Shi with Shimano SPD, was less than half the price of getting the Garmin SPD pedals.
Assioma duos with Look pedals currently... but would love to have the Shimano SPD pedals. Not worth the hack, but I would buy the internal pro version with SPD and move the current duos to my trainer second bike via the hack.
Worth noting- the actual Look cleat wears incredibly quickly. Shimano cleats last me two seasons.
I'd be interested in the Assimodo meters with a Dura Ace body!
In my road bike I have a Quarq powermeter in my SRAM Force AXS D1 - which is great, but has the catch that if I trade my bike, I loose the PM or have to buy another one. Also, there are some chainrings incompatibilities. With all of that in consideration when buying the next road bike it's likely that i would opt for a PM pedal and Assioma are the way to go. But since I ride with shimano cleats, I guess i will have to change to look systema. But if Favero develops the PRO-MX road version, that will be veeeery nice
Yep, give us the road version of the new spindle and it will sell really well in my opinion.
I see you still rocking those magene exars. Are u satisfied? How would u rate them after such a long time usage ?
They’ve held up well.
After experimenting with the Duo spindles in Ultegra bodies, and having my Stages sent to Shimano grinder hell (heaven?), I gave up and got the Rallys (three weeks before they went on sale!). So far 'Happy Days'? 🤷🏻♂ It's been interesting looking at all that data from rides. 😵💫
Over the Great Pandemic, I killed a pair of Speedplay pedals. All that sweat got past their o-ring on the inside and all the bearings were completely gone. (Rusted, seized, tetanus hazards) Riding indoors without a good seal is not a great idea. (They were pre-buyout pedals too) I was using noise cancelling buds and apparently missed the screeching of those bearings dying until I noticed the play had gotten wider. .
I've been riding the Look-style cleats since the Favero BePro came out in... 2016? Regarding the cleats, I've been a happy camper.
So maybe a stupid question: Why are many riders so insistent on getting Shimano cleats to work with Favero pedals? Is the difference really that great? I have no experience with SPD-SL.
Shut up and take my money if Assioma release pedals with no Q factor for Shimano folks
If you can get me the exact measurement of both spindles, the internal of the bodys, and them dust caps, i could possibly make ones that fit the hacked pedals.
additive or machined? agree that would be an awesome project =)
I had a bad experience with this hack!
So I bough my Favero one a few years ago and the body snapped like 6 months later. Since I’m in Argentina, I had no way of contacting support so I decided to switch the bodies for the Xpedos road bodies… it worked fine for like 3 months and then the power meter stopped turning once once it turned off due to inactivity, so I had tho change the time for it to turn off after 30 mins of inactivity… it kind of worked for a few months but the the pedal just started to turn off in the middle of the ride, up to the point where they turn off right after I start pedaling 😢 two years fighting with those problems and now I just use them as a regular pair of pedals with no power meter ( I managed to get on original Favero body but it still doesn’t work)
I am 194cm and got myself Shi version (Q factor is great for me). And yes, I have terrible play and new bearings work fine for 1000km. Actually I am confused about what to do next. I will probably make a hack with MTB 520 pedal bodies and move Duo Shiz to my MTB bike. But what should I buy for my road bike? 🤷🏼♂️
Converted to Look because of the Assiomas, can't really tell much different to SPD-SL now, so as long as these keep working I'm not really interested in converting back to Shimano.
Shimano's SPD-SL patent lasts till the end of 2025, so I doubt we'll see much before 2026
Garmin and SRM already produce a SPD-SL compatible power pedal. I'd assume this means Favero could do the same.
@@gplama do you know if they are paying for licensing?
@@invisiblescout6335 Good question. I'm not sure.
I'm still looking for a hack to use the Assioma DUO with SPD that has a larger body, like a flat cage with SPD. Going to buy the SONIK GFX or AMBIX to try it out is a bit too costly for me.
I've been waiting for this review, thank you so much. Do you know the bearing dimensions? Maybe you can find bearings with 1mm or 2mm less width, so you can also fit the dust cap.
Bearings are 1 x 686-2RS & 2 x 6700-2RS Bearing. I'm not sure going smaller on the inside set would be a good idea. They're already pretty small.
@@gplama Is the 686-2RS bearing the inside (closer to BB) bearing? If so the 6700-2RS bearings can be replaced by using a non sealed (open) version of this bearing (6700 W3) saving 2mm in total for each pedal and allowing the dust cap to fit. The dust cap + the inner 2RS bearing should provide enough protection. Afaik pedal bearings often don't use seals at all (a lot of the total friction is actually caused by the seal).
@@leg_snapperI just ordered 4 bearings. This might do the trick!
@@LKal564 Nice, please report back. Make sure to use a proper amount of grease on the sealed outer bearing (especially on the outside ring where it makes contact) to keep dust and grime out.
@@leg_snapper Yes, I am actually considering Morgan Blue Aqua Proof. But maybe that will prevent the pedals to move at all 😅
@gplama Initially you tried to use the thicker endcap from the Sonik, but when that was not removable, how was the solution to remove the endcap altogether and not add a 1mm washer?
I wasn't able to get the washer off the Sonik spindle to try that.
@@gplama I know, that much was clear. But why not ADD a 1mm washer to the Assioma one (and making it as wide as the Sonik one), and instead removing it altogether?
@@ValentinDumitru It didn't fit with the smallest washer, adding more with wouldn't work. The spindles weren't an exact 1:1 copy.
@@gplama ok, I was under the impression that the problem was not the spindle length and that the washer/endcap, if thicker, would have prevented the pedal body to touch the spindle body and thus prevent the locking. I still think this would be a nice thing to try.
do Assioma work well if you have 20mm extender on one side/pedal ?
Not something I've attempted to use/test. That'd be a question for Favero support.
@@gplama i've got just an answer "we didn't test that" :/
What's the size of that socket wrench? Asking for a friend...
check the original spd hack vid, and do take note that the wall thickness of the socket needs to be thinner than a normal one
Cool hack. Whats up with the 4iiii crank? Have them on my bike and they seem fine. Nothing to compare them to I guess?
It's close but still not 100% with the right side in some scenarios. I'll dig more another day.
@@gplama good to hear its at least close haha.
@@gplama last 4iiii product I had was a trainer thats sitting under the house rusting away. What a POS.
The Fliiiiiiiiiight? That never really took off. *boom tish*
@@gplamawould you say the LFH only is 100% or near enough that it doesn’t matter?
Do any one know if you can up or down scale assioma og garmin watt pedals. I know he did it with the SRAM Rival wattkrank.
Favero have a scale option on their meters.
Maybe the pedals are outdoor only because of the way most non cyclists pedal on a stationary bike. Like in a spin class where you use your bodyweight to bob up and down on the pedals 😂
Or if they produce an official look pedal 😂😂😂
ex pedo
I don't know what they were thinking with that name. Because once a pedo., always a..... 🤦🏻♂️
@@gplama seriously, someone need to tell them what their name mean
I only have 6 more pounds to lose before I'm able to ride these.
The converted pedals will be fine. It's the titanium Xpedo spindles that are the limiter.
85kg rider weight... 🙄
That'd be for the titanium spindle, I assume.
This limit is for the titanium spindle version of the Sonik pedals, which gets replaced by the assioma spindle is this mod. If you wanna do this mod, then just buy the Cr-Mo version.
with the original titanium axle …
I had a bad experience with this hack!
So I bough my Favero one a few years ago and the body snapped like 6 months later. Since I’m in Argentina, I had no way of contacting support so I decided to switch the bodies for the Xpedos road bodies… it worked fine for like 3 months and then the power meter stopped turning once once it turned off due to inactivity, so I had tho change the time for it to turn off after 30 mins of inactivity… it kind of worked for a few months but the the pedal just started to turn off in the middle of the ride, up to the point where they turn off right after I start pedaling 😢 two years fighting with those problems and now I just use them as a regular pair of pedals with no power meter ( I managed to get on original Favero body but it still doesn’t work)