The drilled hole in the counterweight on the crankshaft isn't a blind hole.. the builder should have cut the thin bit of metal in the bottom left from the balancing away so there is no chance of the thin metal breaking loose while the engine is running.
Thanks-great video as alway, What is the temperature that you won’t torque down engine bolts on your rebuilding of race truck? You always talk about being in the barn while it’s cold. I have no heat in my garage and it cold.
I feel you on that brother. Kill devil diesel has been lagging. Its been weeks and they never shipped my injectors. I have been buying my o ring cylinder heads for my customers on DK engine parts with zero issues and no crazy wait time.
I didnt get any porting. Building more of a street/strip truck, not a race truck. And the ICONs flow so much more then factory its almost like ported heads for my application. As for order # let me check my email
Great content! I’m so looking forward to seeing your race truck finished & racing. As I’m sure you are too! Thanks for all you do making your videos and look forward to seeing your next video!
Hey man love the progress and how you go through it so well. I’m at about the same spot you are and this certainly helped relieve some stress know that I’m doing it right.
I actually have an adrenaline hpop on my truck. It’s a 03 but Im only running 190/30 injectors. And I have WDI unbreakable lpop also Also same ported aluminum o ring heads too. Stage 2 kdd cam Just a few mods off from my list of many. One thing I do know is it’s not cheap, not even close. Can’t wait to see your truck finished up.
Not at all slamming KDD...but it's just nice knowing I'm not the ONLY one waiting for ICON heads. I ordered mine in November too and yet here we are May 4th. Curious, who do you plan on using to tune the truck once it's done? I'm taking mine down to TSD in San Antonio. Heard great things about their on dyno tuning Also, where did you get the extra deep pan and longer pickup tube And you could of used the cast iron hpop. Thumper 1 is good for 190 and Thumper 2 is 220 and bigger
I just went to the top of the spec, I tried following the mahle calculations for the majority of the build. Their calculations are based off bore size and application.
Super stoked your making progress on this build! Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Someday soon I will be attempting the same job your doing.
I had a bore gauge, mics, torque wrench, ring file, ring compressor, ring expander, magnetic base indicator. Assembly is easy, it’s the time of measuring, checking and cleaning that’s the tedious part. There are special tools to install cam bearings, front/rear main installer, and timing tool.
@@LeftLaneDiesels Cool, thanks. I’ve done gas engines. But wondered if there was any difference in a diesel, or any 6.0 specific things to be mindful of.
Yes, there is some piston protrusion. I have not yet measured how much, but with the block not being decked and .010 reduced compression pistons, we should be well within spec. I’ll measure it out on the next video
At 1.5in down in bore I’m sitting at .0025 PWC Although in spec, it’s definitely tight. But this is at the tightest spot of what the piston will see. OE spec is .0017-.0036 MAHLE is .004
@@LeftLaneDiesels be careful man. Two and a half thousandths for big power is tight. I know these are cast pistons but factory specs are for a 325hp engine. If it was me I would want to be much looser. Your gonna put some heat into these pistons. What do the expert builders say?
@@Bacongrease00 I will need to be careful. Heat kills and that’s going to be my main focus when this thing gets up and running. You wouldn’t believe the lack of info for these engines in high hp applications. The experts keep their specs quiet, as they’ve done the r&d. If this spec makes you cringe…. .0015-.002 on the mains. The mains and PWC are the only two areas I have concern. Gonna have to keep the heat down(add a turbo, nitrous, air/fuel ratio) Guess we will see how it does!
@@LeftLaneDiesels yes it’s like a secret squirrel club. The Cummins guys run them very loose. .010” on a dedicated track/puller is not unheard of. My gut says .0045-.005” is probably a safe place for big power. The 6.0 has a very stout bottom end so the bed plate should keep the crank secure. I think .003” would be ideal on the mains but your numbers should be fine. There’s not much you can do unless clevite makes an H series bearing as those offer .001” additional clearance. I’m scared at closer to 1000hp that you could experience piston scuffing if the skirts expand into the walls. The cast pistons from Mahle dont have crazy expansion rates like forged pistons but they all grow with heat. You will have heat for sure. Now that it’s together there’s not much you can do. I’m pumped for you though! It’ll be fun to watch. Thanks for my up pipes I got them Saturday!
Hey man, love the channel and most of your videos. But you're right, absolutely disappointed. There was a lot I was looking forward to seeing. Set up a tripod. Even without any commentary. Especially with how little you did in this video. Still subbed with notifications on, so I'm looking forward to your next one, hopefully it's better like your other ones. Appreciate you dude
Videos moving forward on this project will be much more involved. Needed to catch the channel up. I knew I would have some people disappointed, hope I can make it up to everyone with the rest of the assembly! Thanks for sticking it with me! 🙏
Hell ya. Just did my motor like that last year in july
It’s like Christmas haha🤙🏽
You sound like Steve Morris
I ordered a set of the icon head too. Hope I’m not waiting that long lol
The drilled hole in the counterweight on the crankshaft isn't a blind hole.. the builder should have cut the thin bit of metal in the bottom left from the balancing away so there is no chance of the thin metal breaking loose while the engine is running.
That's gonna be a ripper and a screaming demon. Great job brother.
Thanks-great video as alway, What is the temperature that you won’t torque down engine bolts on your rebuilding of race truck? You always talk about being in the barn while it’s cold. I have no heat in my garage and it cold.
back when i studded my 6.0 i didnt want to wait on kdd heads so i went with dynamic diesels oringed heads with hi-rev valve springs and arp 625 studs.
How are those heads working for you? No issues?
@@KF422TX no issues whatsoever
I feel you on that brother. Kill devil diesel has been lagging. Its been weeks and they never shipped my injectors. I have been buying my o ring cylinder heads for my customers on DK engine parts with zero issues and no crazy wait time.
Any word on your heads? I got mine yesterday! It's nice having them after 6 months.
Nive! I still don’t have mine. Did you get the bigger ss valves and a port job?
What was your order number if you don’t mind me asking
I didnt get any porting. Building more of a street/strip truck, not a race truck. And the ICONs flow so much more then factory its almost like ported heads for my application. As for order # let me check my email
Order #6752
I know a couple guys going on 8 months for their heads, the backlog on porting is pretty bad.
If you don't mind sharing.....where do I find the oilpan you were showing off? And pickup?
What brand is that aluminum oil pan ? very nice !
An old Moroso pan, not in production anymore
Wow so bad ass your truck is going to be crazy fast the next level
Super excited for your build all the best brands as always
Great content! I’m so looking forward to seeing your race truck finished & racing. As I’m sure you are too!
Thanks for all you do making your videos and look forward to seeing your next video!
Did you do a technical program or anything for diesel?
I went to school for 2 years-diesel technology associates degree.
The real learning happens in a shop.
Great stuff! Looking good, can't wait to see it run!
Hey man love the progress and how you go through it so well. I’m at about the same spot you are and this certainly helped relieve some stress know that I’m doing it right.
I actually have an adrenaline hpop on my truck. It’s a 03 but Im only running 190/30 injectors.
And I have WDI unbreakable lpop also
Also same ported aluminum o ring heads too. Stage 2 kdd cam
Just a few mods off from my list of many.
One thing I do know is it’s not cheap, not even close. Can’t wait to see your truck finished up.
Cheap and diesel can't be used in the same paragraph lol
Hopefully those heads are coming soon! Also waiting on the same ones, 20mm. My engine is close to your build, I went with a thumper 1 hpop instead.
plus you cant show the other guy what you did. lol
Not at all slamming KDD...but it's just nice knowing I'm not the ONLY one waiting for ICON heads. I ordered mine in November too and yet here we are May 4th.
Curious, who do you plan on using to tune the truck once it's done? I'm taking mine down to TSD in San Antonio. Heard great things about their on dyno tuning
Also, where did you get the extra deep pan and longer pickup tube
And you could of used the cast iron hpop. Thumper 1 is good for 190 and Thumper 2 is 220 and bigger
Its cool watching this knowing in about a year ill be doing the same thing😂 how did you know how much extra ring gap you needed
I just went to the top of the spec, I tried following the mahle calculations for the majority of the build. Their calculations are based off bore size and application.
Super stoked your making progress on this build! Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Someday soon I will be attempting the same job your doing.
Don't know if you're aware but that's not the 6.0L that people want drag race. That's the 6.0L that leaves you stranded on the road. 😊
Any special tools needed to fully assemble these engines?
I had a bore gauge, mics, torque wrench, ring file, ring compressor, ring expander, magnetic base indicator. Assembly is easy, it’s the time of measuring, checking and cleaning that’s the tedious part.
There are special tools to install cam bearings, front/rear main installer, and timing tool.
@@LeftLaneDiesels Cool, thanks. I’ve done gas engines. But wondered if there was any difference in a diesel, or any 6.0 specific things to be mindful of.
Where you get that engine lift plate ?
I made it
I know a guy who makes a kit all you do is weld it up for the 6.0 it’s really convenient
I got a question do your pistons stick out the cylinder a little when at top dead center? Do you have piston protrusion?
Yes, there is some piston protrusion. I have not yet measured how much, but with the block not being decked and .010 reduced compression pistons, we should be well within spec. I’ll measure it out on the next video
I was at .037” after decking my block .005” to clean it up. You can shave the tops of the pistons by a good machinist or just buy ones .010 shorter
Jared from kdd said they like to not have piston protrusion greater than. 030.
What’s your piston to wall clearance ? .004?.0045?.005?
At 1.5in down in bore I’m sitting at .0025 PWC
Although in spec, it’s definitely tight. But this is at the tightest spot of what the piston will see. OE spec is .0017-.0036
MAHLE is .004
@@LeftLaneDiesels be careful man. Two and a half thousandths for big power is tight. I know these are cast pistons but factory specs are for a 325hp engine. If it was me I would want to be much looser. Your gonna put some heat into these pistons. What do the expert builders say?
@@Bacongrease00 I will need to be careful. Heat kills and that’s going to be my main focus when this thing gets up and running.
You wouldn’t believe the lack of info for these engines in high hp applications. The experts keep their specs quiet, as they’ve done the r&d. If this spec makes you cringe…. .0015-.002 on the mains.
The mains and PWC are the only two areas I have concern. Gonna have to keep the heat down(add a turbo, nitrous, air/fuel ratio) Guess we will see how it does!
@@LeftLaneDiesels yes it’s like a secret squirrel club. The Cummins guys run them very loose. .010” on a dedicated track/puller is not unheard of. My gut says .0045-.005” is probably a safe place for big power. The 6.0 has a very stout bottom end so the bed plate should keep the crank secure. I think .003” would be ideal on the mains but your numbers should be fine. There’s not much you can do unless clevite makes an H series bearing as those offer .001” additional clearance. I’m scared at closer to 1000hp that you could experience piston scuffing if the skirts expand into the walls. The cast pistons from Mahle dont have crazy expansion rates like forged pistons but they all grow with heat. You will have heat for sure. Now that it’s together there’s not much you can do. I’m pumped for you though! It’ll be fun to watch. Thanks for my up pipes I got them Saturday!
Hey man, love the channel and most of your videos.
But you're right, absolutely disappointed. There was a lot I was looking forward to seeing. Set up a tripod. Even without any commentary.
Especially with how little you did in this video.
Still subbed with notifications on, so I'm looking forward to your next one, hopefully it's better like your other ones.
Appreciate you dude
Videos moving forward on this project will be much more involved. Needed to catch the channel up. I knew I would have some people disappointed, hope I can make it up to everyone with the rest of the assembly! Thanks for sticking it with me! 🙏