👍Brings back nightmares for me, my EGR had a vacuum leak through pintle needle, at first I thought it was the gasket between EGR and EGR cooler, replaced it with new eBay EGR, same leak, replaced it again with Mitsubishi EGR no leaks through pintle needle. At least it was easier and quicker the third time 😀 I also removed and cleaned EGR cooler with oven clean several times, but in your case time is money for your customers, the cleaning takes as much time as removing it.
@@RichieRich845 yeah the proper cleaning is very important. I have use some degreasers to soak the remaining carbon after breaking them a part. Then clean it. There wasn’t any carbon deposits on EGR itself and cooler.
@@PrimeTechauto not much in the EGR, but I cleaned it anyway by taking the motor out, hard to see in the cooler (just like a radiator ) but when I washed it, yes. I taped both holes of the cooler with clear packing tape, I put the spray and hose from a WD40 can on to Mr. Muscle can, made a small hole in the tape and sprayed. Mr. Muscle is the foaming type, it will reach every nook, be careful this stuff is dangerous and could blind you if you get it in your eyes. Tape, spray, rinse three times until the last rinse came out clean, 30 minutes in between rinsing. I might as well take the time to clean it since it takes a great deal of time taking it out plus the coolant loss. I just bought a Picoscope to test cam/crank coloration and I couldn't find anything for my 4N15 engine from Pico library. Thanks, Rich
@@RichieRich845 do you have a catch can installed. What I’ve seen lots of 4N15 engines - a vehicle driven short drives builds more carbon than a car driven lots of highway drives/long driving styles. Yeah while everything out it’s better cleaning all up at once. Cheers
👍Brings back nightmares for me, my EGR had a vacuum leak through pintle needle, at first I thought it was the gasket between EGR and EGR cooler, replaced it with new eBay EGR, same leak, replaced it again with Mitsubishi EGR no leaks through pintle needle. At least it was easier and quicker the third time 😀
I also removed and cleaned EGR cooler with oven clean several times, but in your case time is money for your customers, the cleaning takes as much time as removing it.
@@RichieRich845 yeah the proper cleaning is very important.
I have use some degreasers to soak the remaining carbon after breaking them a part. Then clean it. There wasn’t any carbon deposits on EGR itself and cooler.
@@PrimeTechauto not much in the EGR, but I cleaned it anyway by taking the motor out, hard to see in the cooler (just like a radiator ) but when I washed it, yes.
I taped both holes of the cooler with clear packing tape, I put the spray and hose from a WD40 can on to Mr. Muscle can, made a small hole in the tape and sprayed.
Mr. Muscle is the foaming type, it will reach every nook, be careful this stuff is dangerous and could blind you if you get it in your eyes.
Tape, spray, rinse three times until the last rinse came out clean, 30 minutes in between rinsing. I might as well take the time to clean it since it takes a great deal of time taking it out plus the coolant loss.
I just bought a Picoscope to test cam/crank coloration and I couldn't find anything for my 4N15 engine from Pico library.
Thanks,
Rich
@@RichieRich845 do you have a catch can installed.
What I’ve seen lots of 4N15 engines - a vehicle driven short drives builds more carbon than a car driven lots of highway drives/long driving styles.
Yeah while everything out it’s better cleaning all up at once. Cheers
@@PrimeTechauto Yes I do, ProVent Catch Can, I drive on Motorway often