Unfortunately, we all probably saw this video because we searched for this information after a catastrophic over tightening by the dealership which caused us to break the plastic cover just trying to get the POS off!! Thank you so much for this video!
This is far the best video demonstrating the issue with overtightening the Toyota oil filter housing. This video needs to be mandatory training for every Toyota tech (or any tech for that matter) performing engine oil changes. What I found extremely useful and quite surprising is how little force is required for 18-ft lbs (25 K-m) of torque. I won't go into details for my oil change on by 3rd Gen Prius (2012), but it was 108F in the garage and I could barely apply force on the breaker bar while working on back with the very low clearance Prius. Let's just say that my assumed 30 minute oil change ruined my Saturday morning. Bravo and well done.
It took me three feet of pole to get the housing off on my Camry when I just did my first oil change (Toyotacare expired). Now when I just got home from work, I noticed I left a trail of oil behind me the entire way. Thankfully the dipstick was still above the minimum mark, but barely.
Thank you! I thought I was the only one having that bad experience. Did my first oil change two days ago and was impressed at how much I had to work at removing the oil filter housing - it was incredibly tight. To my surprise, the "o" ring was broken (torn) in place when I finally was able to remove the plastic housing. I thought it was my fault until I noticed the amount of dirt that had collected around the area where the "o" ring had split. All previous work had been done at...any guesses?...the Toyota dealership. Sheesh...can't trust anybody these days. I replaced the "o" rings and filter housing using the manufacture's recommended torque settings. No leaks so far. But I can't help having the "look over my shoulder" feeling about any "micro cracks" that Charlie's Foreign Car Service video mentioned. Will keep any eye open. In any case, thanks again for sharing your experience.
Funny, watched another video where the guy didn't use a torque wrench to install the housing and was showing how to hammer the removal tool while applying force. A "Toyota mechanic" chimed in and said he's never used a torque wrench on an oil housing and has never had any recall leaks. Why would a "professional" admit to not using a torque wrench?
@@waynebinkybecause they don't want to waste anytime to get to the next job. It's about $$$. They are paid by jobs not by hours. They could care less. Unfortunately thats all dealerships. A lot of independent shops are the same way. Quality of work is not priority.
Took 2014 Toyota Tundra to Dealership to change oil, filter housing over tighten by Toyota Dealership technician. Never again taking to Dealership, missed screews and bolts. Thank you!
Toyota dealer technicians have bad habits and tighten that drain valve plug along with the housing causing that drain plug to be frozen on the housing. Never will take my truck back to the dealer. Do your own oil changes.
Yes after 2 oil changes on my tundra, that was enough for me. so much more convenient and better oil used when i do it myself. the little drain they stuck in there i just left in to be honest, i just drop the whole thing and still don't make a mess, but there was no need for it to be overtightened like that. I thought the cartridge was going to be a mess, but i've come to like them more. I think the filters should be cheaper than cannister filters, but they're often the same or more... strange to me .
Made that mistake, when they did a recall on my Sienna they offered to change the oil also, welp now I can't take the filter housing off. And of course I am going back to them to have them take the filter housing off.
The faster the tech can get one car done and get onto the next one, the more money he makes. The more stuff he finds wrong or questionable, means a hopeful upsell to the customer from the service adviser! In many way the system is basically designed to screw as much money out of a customer as possible!
Thank you for this video, which explains the problem very well. I left town in November to take care of family business and ended up being gone five months. I returned last night to find my RAV4 sitting in a lake of oil. I don't remember who changed my oil before I left town, but they must have cracked the filter housing. The good thing that has come out of this is that I found a fabulous mechanic who diagnosed the issue right away and is replacing the housing with a metal one. He says he sees a lot of cracked housings on RAV4s and thinks Toyota should issue a TSB and replace them all. BTW, the reason I needed to find a new mechanic is that this is the first problem I've had with this car in four years of ownership.
My daughter has a 2013 Toyota Scion, and whoever did the last oil change used an impact wrench and cracked the plastic. WalMart Techs saw it and wouldn't touch it. They told us what happened. I found this video, and, for 30.00 plus the cost of a filter, I think I can fix it and save her car. THANK YOU for this video. If I knew where you were/are, I would come down and have a cup of coffee. Thank you for the nice explanation for a non-mechanic. I really think I can do this, and I have very little confidence in my mechanical abilities.
You are 100% right. Only when I hand tightened it I didn't get anymore oil leaks from the alum oil filter housing. Did my first oil change on my wife's 2009 Rav4 last week.
@@rogerbec5766 Be sure to completely lube the o rings with clean oil , I used a spray lube . As someone had said the inside / outside of the o ring wasn't lubed . And when filter was tightened , the o ring got pinched and caused a leak .
I bought a used 2017 Camry and when I went to change the oil filter, it was really tight. I backed off from taking off the filter housing and didn't really know what was going on until I saw your video. Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! One Year later - watched this again and picked up even more info. Thanks!
Firestone Mokena, Illinois. Had to use a 1/2” drive impact gun to remove oil drain plug. Same thing with the filter housing. DIY is the only answer, but the common owner of today’s super sophisticated push button self driving, self parking motor vehicles would freak out if they had to turn a key to start. And analog gauges OMG! the cruelty. This was the very best easy to hear video from a concerned tech to show the correct what one should do. Thanks.
Finally a video on this type of filter housing that covers it all and very professionally done. Everyone ignore all the shadetree videos on this subject as they will only get you in trouble.
Funny how some models have plastic housing and others are aluminum. Thankfully my 2016 Highlander came with an aluminum one. Another reason to never let anyone change your oil - do it yourself! Thanks for posting.
My boss jumped in to "help out" and did an oil change for me. Not only did he forget the housing oring but I think he was trying to hold the whole car together tightening the damn housing. GREAT video!!!👍👍
AAA shop in Greenville, SC did this to my Sienna.--Also installed with the O-ring diagonal across the threads. As it was a plastic housing, I ended up taking it out with a chisel and hacksaw. --Replaced with the metal housing and torqued to spec. Changing my own oil now.
Great video! I have an 08' Lexus ES 350 and a 10' Lexus RX 350. Both have the aluminunm oil filter housing. Neither one of them have ever seen a torque wrench for tightening. Always hand tight and that's it. Never had a problem. And yes because of the many heat cycles it goes through, it basically tightens itself over time and I do need the wrench and socket to remove it. Otherwise hand tight is plenty!
This guy is 100% correct. I used an impact gun to remove the filter housing, it leaked oil. Most Lexus technicians know what they are doing. It is the lazy 0.01% who don't want to take the extra minute to use a torque wrench.
Thank you for not using the torque wrench to loosen that oil filter housing in your example. I have seen so many UA-cam people using tools improperly, I am sure they mean well. So nice to see things correctly demonstrated. : )
Thank you for the outstanding video! I appreciate it you candid, easy to understand delivery. I had to work very hard at removing the filter housing...slow, but steady pressure (lots of it!) helped me get the housing off. As difficult to remove as it was, I can't imagine the previous mechanic using a torque wrench to secure the housing back in place. Guess I'll find out during my next oil change. Based on your comments about the possibility of "micro cracks" in the housing, I may just go ahead and replace it next time as well. Thanks again for the GREAT video. rb
Just had this happen to me. On a DIY oil change, noticed the teeth on the cap was broken. Tried to remove and it was so tighten that it cracked on barely touching the opposite teeth end and oil went everywhere. Had to replace with a metal one. Took me just about all day. I’m a bit happy that I did the work myself because if they’d use an impact wrench again it would have been cracked and leaking at some point.
My 2008 Tundra uses a similar design, also of plastic. Years ago, I learned the hard way to always use a torque wrench (and I do mean always). I never thought of cracking a plastic housing, but am halfway thru an oil change and will probably set my wrench on 17 ftlbs!
I have 2 5.7L engines with this style. I went through hell after breaking my Tundras plastic cap. My theory is that I let my engine completely cool as I have always done. I considered then that it's always warm when a shop does it. So on the Sequoia I changed the oil with the engine still warm and no issues. My theory is it was so tight on the Tundra from thermal expansion contraction. I'm the original owner and it's only been changed by the selling dealership until now. Great video.
Outstanding video! I just had to buy a 17mm socket and 1/2 impact adapter for my impact driver to remove a housing on a 2012 Toyota Sienna van I bought used. It turns out this one had an aluminum housing so you are right that these can be overtightened as well. That's why I insist on doing all of my own oil changes. Great advice here, I will probably purchase a torque wrench for future changes.
Thanks for the tutorial. Our 2014, Gen 3 Prius filter housing is embossed with "25NM" on it. Anyway for what THAT it's worth... We are the original owners.
🎉Thank you for uploading this! Lol it's 1am in ohio, and I was wondering why I destroyed my housing. It was installed wayyyyy too tight. But now I have to go get a new one in the morning. BTW, thanks for the metal housing tip, I'll look into it.
Thank you for this video!! I had apply so much force to get that filter housing off I was sure it was going to break. Dealer really tightened the heck out of it. Thanks again
I've watched A LOT of videos about my cars. After watching this one, I decided to subscribe before the 2nd minute started. You guys make awesome videos. Thank you
On my 2011 Toyota Camry , I replaced the plastic oil filter housing with a cast aluminum one . And only tightened it by hand until it wouldn't turn , anymore .
Great Video. Who ever did the oil change on my brother car previously must have cranked it to 200 ft. lbs. Had to use a breaker bar which broke the tool and then everntually broke the housing.
Having the same problem with our recently purchased 2017 Camry from the dealer. They literally said tough luck to the fact that one of their "techs" tightened the filter so tight that its bending my equipment trying to get it off. Had this problem with my last dealer oil change on my Avalon. I think some of the "techs" think if we can't get them off we'll have to use the Dealership for our work. Just one more incident as to why I won't have a dealership do my work.
@@siker323LAI just bought a new plastic canister for my ‘15 Venza. I just bought it back in Feb ‘23, and when I did my first oil change on it in March, I noticed that there were slow drips coming from the plastic canister, leading me to believe that there are micro-cracks in the plastic. When I do my next oil change at 5K miles (Sept/Oct ‘23). I will replace it with the new plastic canister. As I will be doing the oil changes on this Venza, I will also torque it to “factory spec”, not the impact method. The Car Care Nut (Toyota/Lexus UA-cam channel) says the plastic is high quality and durable, as long as it’s not over-torqued.
Nikko, Your video on how to replace an oil filter on a Highlander is absolutely the best video on UA-cam explaining how to efficiently and safely do this seemingly simple procedure. I have paged through every video on this topic and your presentation, including graphic illustrations, taught me exactly how to correctly do a job that until now has had an endless list of questions, “what do I do ifs?”, “how much here?”, “how much there?”, “how do I’s?” etc…. You know what you are doing. You probably were a really good student, and now you are an excellent teacher. Any young tech would be fortunate to work and learn from your breadth of knowledge and plethora of experience. You are willing to teach others. You give what you know and use a very understandable presentation style, and I respect that. I’m near Chicago but if I lived near your business in Encinitas, California, I would come have a cup of coffee with you as you invited all to do. So perhaps we can share a ‘virtual’ cup. Thanks for making this video.
Yeah I definitely over tightened it..I ordered a new housing already because it started to leak after doing the oil change.. Oh well, now I know. Thanks!
Thanks for a great video. I changed my 2012 Camry oil for the time (one owner) and had always had the dealer do it except for the last oil change at an other shop when they were doing other work to it. I bought the right oil wrench tool and actually bend my extention piece on my rachet removing the oil filter! I heard it creak when it started to get loose. Once I changed the oil and put everything back together I now have a tiny leak at the top of the oil filter housing. I just changed my 2007 oil for the first time as well last week and noticed it had a metal housing. Why did Toyota go cheap with plastic? Also, why do shops way over tighten them?
That's what I do. No leak and it does not loosen by itself, and that is all due to the way the O-ring seals and holds the filter tight as well. That extra little turn, the torque wrench, and the metal housings are not needed.
Awesome video explaining it. This is how i work on my Lexus and Toyota filters. I even use a torque wrench on my drain bolt so i can get the crush washer off easily. At least on my accord if you over tighten it up can't get the washer over the threads
Very good video. Most shops overtighten everything AF I personally overtightened my oil housing and oil drain plug probably a good dozen of times when I did my own oil changes in the past 10+ years 😂
Stealership over torqued mine, they threw in some oil changes when we bought the car. It started to crack when I was trying to get it off. I went in and demanded they do my oil change since they over tightened. They acted like they didn't know what I was talking about but they did it. Then they replaced the damaged housing saying it looked fine. Never buying from them again.
Thank you for the video it was very well done. I’ve seen other videos say tighten to 25 foot pounds. I think they’re looking at a newton torque spec. Wish I had seen your video sooner. Replacing my cracked housing today.
Doing a oil change on my new to me es300h and have a over tightened housing. I stopped before I broke it because it was just way to tight. I’ve had three Toyotas with filters like this and new something was wrong. I ordered a new housing and the proper wrench so I’m prepared when it breaks. Thanks for you video
Hello. When I worked at Sears Auto ran into these. Had a few come off when I went to remove the 3/8" Drain Plug. Now I am working at Mavis Tire. Went to remove a housing on a Rav4. Popped the Nut right out of the tool. Took it home at the end of my shift. And hit it with my Mig 140. Fortunately it was a Steel Tool purchased at Advance Auto. Stopped in there a few days later. Associate said she replaced several with that same issue. Looked at a new one. You can see a Tiny weld inside. Had to hold it in my hand while welding. Its not pretty. But seems to work.
How critical is the presence of that perforated metal tube in the housing? I bought a Lexus back in May and noticed that it didn’t have the perforated tube in the filter housing. I’ve since done another oil change and have learned that this tube should be in all Toyota oil filter housings. I’m going to replace the entire filter housing but my concern is how urgent and imperative is it that I get a new one in there ?
The “tech” at my Toyota dealer thinks 18 ft/lbs = 30 seconds with a 3/4” air hammer at full whack. Then he does a final check with a 3’ breaker bar and a strong grunt.
I changed my oil for the first time yesterday on my camry and when I was tightening the filter I kept hearing some clicks wasn’t sure when it bottoms out. How can I tell when it bottoms out . Thanks
At this point in the video, He explains how you know when you bottom out. ua-cam.com/video/R-H_rS7mq5c/v-deo.html If you don't oil the O-ring, it can make a clicking sound.
Thanks for this info....first video on this I have seen that covers exactly how the filter housing should be installed... What I was missing is that you bottom it out before you torque it to spec. Funny thing I just changed the filter in my 2012 Highlander and I hand tightened the housing until it bottomed out.....I thought no way it could be all the way in so backed it out and tightened it again...same thing... So I put the torque wrench on it set to 27 foot pounds (spec says 25 ft pnd plus or minus 5ft pnds) and wrench released immediately... So I assumed something must not be right ..but went ahead and finished the oil change and checked for leaks.. so far it looks ok . But will do a brief road test tomorrow and check again. Cheers!
When I bought my Tundra, the oil filter had been changed only twice by a dealer since it was brand new. The metal disk wouldn’t come off without unscrewing the filter body, so I removed the whole thing. I had to use a vice and breaker bar to separate the metal cap from the plastic filter body. Needless to say, I replaced the housing. Since I do my own oil changes, I don’t expect issues after this. Probably won’t let a dealer near it.
Two questions: 1) Why doesn’t Toyota make the metal cartridge the OEM factory part instead of the plastic? 2) In this video the ambient noise is pretty light, but if you’re in a noisy environment, how are you supposed to hear the spec click of the torque wrench?
Great video, and why did you not decide to install the aluminum filter housing and went ahead with the plastic one with all the issues being posted on the internet on these plastic housing?
Make sure that the metal housing comes from Toyota, not aftermarket, or else it will void your warranty possibly if oil related damage...use oem black composite housing, commonly referred to as plastic
First oil change on my daughters 2022 4runner since the prepaid dealer changes. I needed to buy a high priced all steel tool made for a 1/2 inch breaker bar and used a 3 foot breaker bar to get it loose. Nobody could ever convince me that this wasn’t over tightened deliberately. These filter housings will not rattle loose and fall off even if they are finger tight. I don’t care how many heating and cooling cycles it goes through it will never tighten itself to 100’s of pounds of torque.
The one and only time I took my '18 4RNR to the TOYOTA dealer for an oil change (weather was too miserable to do at home like usual).... the grossly over-tightened EVERYTHING. Never again.
The oil filter housing is impossible to overtighten. OEM filter/oring well wetted with fresh oil turned in on cold engine goes smoothly until it bottoms out.
@@anurakboribun2560 When the a$$holes use an impact to tighten the canister... it will be tight as hell or they will crack the housing. The service techs cracked the housing on my brother's 2015 4-Runner. The housing is stamped with tighten to 18 ft/lbs. I always use a torque wrench.
@@stephenmaurer7008 I know it is stamped. You are right about $$holes because whoever approaches the filter with impact either to remove or install deserves to be called butcher not mechanic. They do not think. Old CANister filter had small thread screw and then landed on gasket. This thing has large thread going over huge oring gasket as it goes in. It gives different feel of resistance. It should be tightened with steady gentle force not jerking or whacking because that is the easiest way to cross thread especially the plastic version. I assure you turned slowly this thing will go evenly until it reaches the end. Sad that mechanics do not have enough imagination to notice that. One complicating factor, non Toyota filter may have orings made out of some crap that does not respond well to removing. When I put it in gently I know for sure threads are not crossed, I always remove it easily too. Again no jerking with the stupid impact, slow steady pull does it until about half way then the rest by bare hand. Once again: to install - original gasket, lubricate it well with fresh oil, approach installation when engine is fairly cold because it expands noticeably when hot. Forget the torque wrench because it could be tricky and fooled many, gentle steady even pulls until you feel resistance of the end of possibility. You may get surprised how simple it is. Next time of removal you will remember that it was easy on so you will have your confidence that it must be removable. Stay away from "mechanics" utilizing impact wrenches. Just replaced three wheel studs, somebody overkilled them ☺
great video! What is the part number on the replacement oil filter cartridge housing? Video shows a metal replacement part- Part Number/where/how to order please and thank you kindly!
A Toyota dealer torqued my Rav4 oil filter housing so tight that, unbeknownst to me, they didn't change my oil filter when they changed my oil. I didn't know until I couldn't remove the oil filter, even by using a long wrench extension, when I tried to do a DIY oil change. My Rav4 was 5yr old at that time, so I don't know how old was the oil filter. This also explains why the oil had a darker amber color after they did a new oil change. It also explains why the oil is always overfilled by half a quart ... it's because they did not remove the old oil sitting in the oil filter housing. When asked, the service manager convinced me that everything was normal. I now service all four of my Toyotas somewhere else.
Hand tight keeps filters on for tens of thousands of miles. No need for an impact putting one on. I have needed to gun a few off, however. I just set my M18 to 70ftlb, and gently slap away. It works, but I’m always nervous and it’s a total last resort before exotic measures begin to be considered.
When it bottoms out tight with the wrench cap, just get it snug tight and your good. The heat will get the oil filter tighter. Its like using the old cannister filter where tou just hand tight snug tight it and your good.
For the 2011 Corolla, there is an inexpensive workaround. I bought a quality brand 1/4 in torque wrench. It generally "clicks when it's supposed to but I was so paranoid after cracking my first filter housing I arrived at a simple workaround that gives me the desired torque, without overtightening. I also do not require a torque wrench. First ... when removing the housing, as gently as possible, unscrew the housing. Do not yank, grab, jerk or wrestle the housing off. Gently, gently unscrew the cap until finger loose. Remove normally after that. When tightening, gently tighten the cap towards the housing (base) surface. Just before you've tightened it fully, ensure you can insert a 0.15mm feeler gauge between the cap and the base. If you have a snug (not tight) fit. You're good to go. But I repeat, gently, gently tighten the housing down to that gap. More and you risk cracking the housing a few months later when you change your filter. Generally that is when the caps crack. This has worked without issue for two full oil changes without leaking and the housing was easy to twist off without an initial jerk or tug to loosen. It just immediately began to twist out as soon as I put the faintest pressure on it. That's it. Guaranteed "decent" accuracy of torque without overtightening and without a torque wrench. Best of days to all.
You can break it apart inside the housing, I blocked off the Oil galley to engine area with Blue Shop Towels, then preceded to tear into housing, ( I already had new one ready.) if had to take Dremel to part that was inside threads, just cutting a nice groove into inside plastic housing, once groove cut established, pried it little and it boke on Groove line, allowing me to pull it all out, Cleaned housing and replaced. Left Sharpie note on oil pan, No Torque wrench !
Hey Niko, Your in my bay i used to work in. Electric lift gone? Does John Ball still work there? Your Dad and Mom retire? Good to see your still in buisness and going strong!!!
On my 2018 Highlander I got it with 7000 miles on it and the first oil change I had a hell of a time getting that housing off all the way to the last turn, I figured the threads where destroyed from the dealership over tighten but that was not the case, the threads looked perfect, I mean it was very hard to turn off, I was about to buy a new metal housing but the plastic one looked fine, so I just put some anti seize on the threads and the next oil chang worked like a dream, I quess the dry threads of plastic against metal just made it hard to turn, and I don’t take the little drain plug out and let it drain, I just loosen the housing and take the filter out, dump oil out of housing and put new o ring and filter in and screw back on, do my Avalon the same way, 40’000 on the Highlander and 80 on the Avalon,no problems
Is the torque setting 18 ft-lbs including the use of a 6-inch extension, or should the calculation for the extension have been performed, which would have increased the torque setting?
I have 2016 Toyota Corolla. I have just replaced a housing with a new aftermarket (Dorman I believe from and put a new O-ring from a new filter in. However I still see red O-ring exposed after tightening the housing by hand pretty tight. Is it bad that I still see red/orange O-ring exposed? Or it is not tight enough or I did something (put in an O-RING wrong)?
You shouldn't see any o-ring after it's been properly torqued. Purchase a torque wrench. They're not too much money and are needed often if performing your own work.
Since the large O-ring seals on the diameter and not the face all you have to do is gently snug the housing till it stops on the face....the little metal clip will prevent the housing from backing out if it ever tries to...but it never has on our 2 Toyotas, the friction of the O-ring is enough....as a tool designer I have incorporated hundreds of O-ring applications in industrial tooling....
Our RAV4 had the first three oil changes free at the dealer, and the first time I did it myself I had to use a long breaker bar and brace myself with my feet on the back of front tire to get it loose. I was really afraid of breaking it. I've done a few changes on it now and just snug the filter. The last time I did it the filter started turning while I was trying to remove the little drain cover. Oops! I suppose I need to start torqueing them.
This just happened to me - Jiffy Lube overtightened, I paid for their mistake at my new oil change place. Jiffy Lube's $100 oil change was getting a bit extreme, and they usually has some kind of issue.....
Just did a relative's '17 Tundra. Very hard to remove. After install, checked for leaks and there was a tiny crack in the webbing of the notch/ear. Replaced with metal housing from Autozone $32.
2023 tacoma with 15k miles bought it at 9k. called stealership to confirm that they were the ones that had done two oil changes before i bought. the housing unit was absolutely impossible to take out with a ratchet even applied a tube to it to get better force to twist and nothing. broke a 3/8 METAL extension from how hard we were trying to get it off. first time doing an oil change on this so i 1000% made sure i wasn't tightening it. tried for hours and just gave up because even a impact gun couldn't take it out.... called the stealership the next day and they assured me they did not over tightened it. i will be taking it to them so they can deal with it but after that i will never get it serviced with them again
I work at a lube center in the pit (below the car) have had many of these things break even if at torque spec it’s a crap design best thing to do is replace the stock plastic one to a metal one they are way stronger so should it weld it’s self you can get it back off. Without having to chisel the remains out and risk more damage.
You don’t even need that SST (special service tool) to get that housing off. KD and CTA makes a 14 flute filter wrench that goes over the end of the housing -works just fine👍
When you mention “bottom out” the housing, do you mean turning until it absolutely stops, even if it has passed the 18ft/lbs on a torque wrench? It just seems like it doesn’t take much turning to reach 18ft/lb.
Unfortunately, we all probably saw this video because we searched for this information after a catastrophic over tightening by the dealership which caused us to break the plastic cover just trying to get the POS off!! Thank you so much for this video!
This is far the best video demonstrating the issue with overtightening the Toyota oil filter housing. This video needs to be mandatory training for every Toyota tech (or any tech for that matter) performing engine oil changes. What I found extremely useful and quite surprising is how little force is required for 18-ft lbs (25 K-m) of torque. I won't go into details for my oil change on by 3rd Gen Prius (2012), but it was 108F in the garage and I could barely apply force on the breaker bar while working on back with the very low clearance Prius. Let's just say that my assumed 30 minute oil change ruined my Saturday morning. Bravo and well done.
It took me three feet of pole to get the housing off on my Camry when I just did my first oil change (Toyotacare expired). Now when I just got home from work, I noticed I left a trail of oil behind me the entire way. Thankfully the dipstick was still above the minimum mark, but barely.
Thank you! I thought I was the only one having that bad experience. Did my first oil change two days ago and was impressed at how much I had to work at removing the oil filter housing - it was incredibly tight. To my surprise, the "o" ring was broken (torn) in place when I finally was able to remove the plastic housing. I thought it was my fault until I noticed the amount of dirt that had collected around the area where the "o" ring had split. All previous work had been done at...any guesses?...the Toyota dealership. Sheesh...can't trust anybody these days.
I replaced the "o" rings and filter housing using the manufacture's recommended torque settings. No leaks so far. But I can't help having the "look over my shoulder" feeling about any "micro cracks" that Charlie's Foreign Car Service video mentioned. Will keep any eye open. In any case, thanks again for sharing your experience.
Funny, watched another video where the guy didn't use a torque wrench to install the housing and was showing how to hammer the removal tool while applying force. A "Toyota mechanic" chimed in and said he's never used a torque wrench on an oil housing and has never had any recall leaks. Why would a "professional" admit to not using a torque wrench?
@@waynebinkybecause they don't want to waste anytime to get to the next job. It's about $$$. They are paid by jobs not by hours. They could care less. Unfortunately thats all dealerships. A lot of independent shops are the same way. Quality of work is not priority.
@@njackson18 Are the dealership mechanics paid not by the hour? I can see the independent shops cutting corners to save time and make more money.
Took 2014 Toyota Tundra to Dealership to change oil, filter housing over tighten by Toyota Dealership technician. Never again taking to Dealership, missed screews and bolts.
Thank you!
Most thorough and acurate video I've seen so far.
Toyota dealer technicians have bad habits and tighten that drain valve plug along with the housing causing that drain plug to be frozen on the housing. Never will take my truck back to the dealer. Do your own oil changes.
Always
True
Yes after 2 oil changes on my tundra, that was enough for me. so much more convenient and better oil used when i do it myself. the little drain they stuck in there i just left in to be honest, i just drop the whole thing and still don't make a mess, but there was no need for it to be overtightened like that. I thought the cartridge was going to be a mess, but i've come to like them more. I think the filters should be cheaper than cannister filters, but they're often the same or more... strange to me .
Made that mistake, when they did a recall on my Sienna they offered to change the oil also, welp now I can't take the filter housing off. And of course I am going back to them to have them take the filter housing off.
The faster the tech can get one car done and get onto the next one, the more money he makes. The more stuff he finds wrong or questionable, means a hopeful upsell to the customer from the service adviser! In many way the system is basically designed to screw as much money out of a customer as possible!
Thank you for this video, which explains the problem very well. I left town in November to take care of family business and ended up being gone five months. I returned last night to find my RAV4 sitting in a lake of oil. I don't remember who changed my oil before I left town, but they must have cracked the filter housing. The good thing that has come out of this is that I found a fabulous mechanic who diagnosed the issue right away and is replacing the housing with a metal one. He says he sees a lot of cracked housings on RAV4s and thinks Toyota should issue a TSB and replace them all. BTW, the reason I needed to find a new mechanic is that this is the first problem I've had with this car in four years of ownership.
My daughter has a 2013 Toyota Scion, and whoever did the last oil change used an impact wrench and cracked the plastic. WalMart Techs saw it and wouldn't touch it. They told us what happened. I found this video, and, for 30.00 plus the cost of a filter, I think I can fix it and save her car. THANK YOU for this video. If I knew where you were/are, I would come down and have a cup of coffee. Thank you for the nice explanation for a non-mechanic. I really think I can do this, and I have very little confidence in my mechanical abilities.
On my 2011 Toyota Camry I replaced the plastic one with a cast aluminum one and only hand tightened it when doing an oil change , never had an issue .
I do the same with my F150, just take one or both hands and twist that sucker as hard as you can. Never had issues taking them off or loosening.
@WhiteBlurr ST Yes. I always hand tighten oil filters and I've never had an issue.
You are 100% right. Only when I hand tightened it I didn't get anymore oil leaks from the alum oil filter housing. Did my first oil change on my wife's 2009 Rav4 last week.
@@rogerbec5766 Be sure to completely lube the o rings with clean oil , I used a spray lube . As someone had said the inside / outside of the o ring wasn't lubed . And when filter was tightened , the o ring got pinched and caused a leak .
who ever serviced my Sienna over torqued the filter. Awesome video. Very informative.
Thanks 👍
same thing happened to my 2020 tacoma....
I bought a used 2017 Camry and when I went to change the oil filter, it was really tight. I backed off from taking off the filter housing and didn't really know what was going on until I saw your video. Thank You! Thank You! Thank You!
One Year later - watched this again and picked up even more info. Thanks!
Firestone Mokena, Illinois. Had to use a 1/2” drive impact gun to remove oil drain plug. Same thing with the filter housing. DIY is the only answer, but the common owner of today’s super sophisticated push button self driving, self parking motor vehicles would freak out if they had to turn a key to start. And analog gauges OMG! the cruelty. This was the very best easy to hear video from a concerned tech to show the correct what one should do. Thanks.
Finally a video on this type of filter housing that covers it all and very professionally done. Everyone ignore all the shadetree videos on this subject as they will only get you in trouble.
Funny how some models have plastic housing and others are aluminum. Thankfully my 2016 Highlander came with an aluminum one. Another reason to never let anyone change your oil - do it yourself! Thanks for posting.
Trust the Torque Specs. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks!
I do oil changes for a living. Its the metal ones that always get stuck
@@LibertyGunsBeerTrump - mine never gets stuck because no one’s ever touched it but myself 😀
Excellent video. I’ve viewed other similar videos, but none as simple and straight forward as this one. Every DIY’r needs to see this. Well done.
Thanks!
My boss jumped in to "help out" and did an oil change for me. Not only did he forget the housing oring but I think he was trying to hold the whole car together tightening the damn housing.
GREAT video!!!👍👍
AAA shop in Greenville, SC did this to my Sienna.--Also installed with the O-ring diagonal across the threads. As it was a plastic housing, I ended up taking it out with a chisel and hacksaw. --Replaced with the metal housing and torqued to spec. Changing my own oil now.
Great video! I have an 08' Lexus ES 350 and a 10' Lexus RX 350. Both have the aluminunm oil filter housing. Neither one of them have ever seen a torque wrench for tightening. Always hand tight and that's it. Never had a problem. And yes because of the many heat cycles it goes through, it basically tightens itself over time and I do need the wrench and socket to remove it. Otherwise hand tight is plenty!
This guy is 100% correct. I used an impact gun to remove the filter housing, it leaked oil. Most Lexus technicians know what they are doing. It is the lazy 0.01% who don't want to take the extra minute to use a torque wrench.
i had to use one also. that's twice now after toyota/lexus oil changes.
Thank you for not using the torque wrench to loosen that oil filter housing in your example. I have seen so many UA-cam people using tools improperly, I am sure they mean well.
So nice to see things correctly demonstrated. : )
Very good video and explained professionally. Thank you.
Thank you for the outstanding video! I appreciate it you candid, easy to understand delivery. I had to work very hard at removing the filter housing...slow, but steady pressure (lots of it!) helped me get the housing off. As difficult to remove as it was, I can't imagine the previous mechanic using a torque wrench to secure the housing back in place. Guess I'll find out during my next oil change. Based on your comments about the possibility of "micro cracks" in the housing, I may just go ahead and replace it next time as well. Thanks again for the GREAT video. rb
Just had this happen to me. On a DIY oil change, noticed the teeth on the cap was broken. Tried to remove and it was so tighten that it cracked on barely touching the opposite teeth end and oil went everywhere. Had to replace with a metal one. Took me just about all day. I’m a bit happy that I did the work myself because if they’d use an impact wrench again it would have been cracked and leaking at some point.
My 2008 Tundra uses a similar design, also of plastic. Years ago, I learned the hard way to always use a torque wrench (and I do mean always). I never thought of cracking a plastic housing, but am halfway thru an oil change and will probably set my wrench on 17 ftlbs!
I have 2 5.7L engines with this style. I went through hell after breaking my Tundras plastic cap. My theory is that I let my engine completely cool as I have always done. I considered then that it's always warm when a shop does it. So on the Sequoia I changed the oil with the engine still warm and no issues. My theory is it was so tight on the Tundra from thermal expansion contraction. I'm the original owner and it's only been changed by the selling dealership until now. Great video.
I find filters seem to come off easier on any car with engine warm
You make it look so easy.
Changing oil on my 2015 Camry XSE V6 this weekend.
Thank you very helpful. Interesting to know why they made it that way !!
Outstanding video! I just had to buy a 17mm socket and 1/2 impact adapter for my impact driver to remove a housing on a 2012 Toyota Sienna van I bought used. It turns out this one had an aluminum housing so you are right that these can be overtightened as well. That's why I insist on doing all of my own oil changes. Great advice here, I will probably purchase a torque wrench for future changes.
Thanks for the tutorial. Our 2014, Gen 3 Prius filter housing is embossed with "25NM" on it. Anyway for what THAT it's worth... We are the original owners.
Wonderful video!! Thank you!! I did everything you said not to do and suffered all the consequences. Fixed it now, thumbs up!!
Glad it helped!
🎉Thank you for uploading this! Lol it's 1am in ohio, and I was wondering why I destroyed my housing. It was installed wayyyyy too tight. But now I have to go get a new one in the morning. BTW, thanks for the metal housing tip, I'll look into it.
Thank you for this video!! I had apply so much force to get that filter housing off I was sure it was going to break. Dealer really tightened the heck out of it. Thanks again
Just ran into this problem tonight. Went out and bought the metal one. Threading was perfect.
We can't get ours off 😔
Oem metal only if available...not aftermarket
I've watched A LOT of videos about my cars. After watching this one, I decided to subscribe before the 2nd minute started. You guys make awesome videos. Thank you
Awesome! Thank you! I will keep making them for you!
Excellent video and helpful info
Thank you
On my 2011 Toyota Camry , I replaced the plastic oil filter housing with a cast aluminum one . And only tightened it by hand until it wouldn't turn , anymore .
Great Video. Who ever did the oil change on my brother car previously must have cranked it to 200 ft. lbs. Had to use a breaker bar which broke the tool and then everntually broke the housing.
What did you do once the housing was broken?
Having the same problem with our recently purchased 2017 Camry from the dealer. They literally said tough luck to the fact that one of their "techs" tightened the filter so tight that its bending my equipment trying to get it off. Had this problem with my last dealer oil change on my Avalon. I think some of the "techs" think if we can't get them off we'll have to use the Dealership for our work. Just one more incident as to why I won't have a dealership do my work.
Same here I used a breaker bar and broke the filter housing and when I added the oil and turn my car on oil spilled out everywhere.
@@siker323LAI just bought a new plastic canister for my ‘15 Venza. I just bought it back in Feb ‘23, and when I did my first oil change on it in March, I noticed that there were slow drips coming from the plastic canister, leading me to believe that there are micro-cracks in the plastic. When I do my next oil change at 5K miles (Sept/Oct ‘23). I will replace it with the new plastic canister. As I will be doing the oil changes on this Venza, I will also torque it to “factory spec”, not the impact method. The Car Care Nut (Toyota/Lexus UA-cam channel) says the plastic is high quality and durable, as long as it’s not over-torqued.
Nikko,
Your video on how to replace an oil filter on a Highlander is absolutely the best video on UA-cam explaining how to efficiently and safely do this seemingly simple procedure. I have paged through every video on this topic and your presentation, including graphic illustrations, taught me exactly how to correctly do a job that until now has had an endless list of questions, “what do I do ifs?”, “how much here?”, “how much there?”, “how do I’s?” etc….
You know what you are doing. You probably were a really good student, and now you are an excellent teacher. Any young tech would be fortunate to work and learn from your breadth of knowledge and plethora of experience. You are willing to teach others. You give what you know and use a very understandable presentation style, and I respect that.
I’m near Chicago but if I lived near your business in Encinitas, California, I would come have a cup of coffee with you as you invited all to do. So perhaps we can share a ‘virtual’ cup. Thanks for making this video.
This is the sweetest reply I've ever received. I'll keep going on videos. Thank you! Cheer's, virtually!
Do you have a link for the Highlander oil change video, I can’t seem to find it
Do you have a link for the Highlander oil change video, can’t seem to find it
Thank you for this video, going to have to take an impact to my oil filter housing next week because i could for the life of me not get it off.
Yeah I definitely over tightened it..I ordered a new housing already because it started to leak after doing the oil change.. Oh well, now I know. Thanks!
Thanks for a great video. I changed my 2012 Camry oil for the time (one owner) and had always had the dealer do it except for the last oil change at an other shop when they were doing other work to it. I bought the right oil wrench tool and actually bend my extention piece on my rachet removing the oil filter! I heard it creak when it started to get loose. Once I changed the oil and put everything back together I now have a tiny leak at the top of the oil filter housing. I just changed my 2007 oil for the first time as well last week and noticed it had a metal housing. Why did Toyota go cheap with plastic? Also, why do shops way over tighten them?
I always stop tightening once the housing makes contact. The O ring seals the housing. I never had one leak.
That's what I do. No leak and it does not loosen by itself, and that is all due to the way the O-ring seals and holds the filter tight as well. That extra little turn, the torque wrench, and the metal housings are not needed.
Awesome video explaining it. This is how i work on my Lexus and Toyota filters. I even use a torque wrench on my drain bolt so i can get the crush washer off easily. At least on my accord if you over tighten it up can't get the washer over the threads
Very good video. Most shops overtighten everything AF
I personally overtightened my oil housing and oil drain plug probably a good dozen of times when I did my own oil changes in the past 10+ years 😂
Stealership over torqued mine, they threw in some oil changes when we bought the car. It started to crack when I was trying to get it off. I went in and demanded they do my oil change since they over tightened. They acted like they didn't know what I was talking about but they did it. Then they replaced the damaged housing saying it looked fine. Never buying from them again.
It's a bummer when they don't fess up to it. They should have. It's a very easy thing to overtighten if your not careful.
Thank you for the video it was very well done. I’ve seen other videos say tighten to 25 foot pounds. I think they’re looking at a newton torque spec. Wish I had seen your video sooner. Replacing my cracked housing today.
Doing a oil change on my new to me es300h and have a over tightened housing. I stopped before I broke it because it was just way to tight. I’ve had three Toyotas with filters like this and new something was wrong. I ordered a new housing and the proper wrench so I’m prepared when it breaks. Thanks for you video
Hello. When I worked at Sears Auto ran into these. Had a few come off when I went to remove the 3/8" Drain Plug. Now I am working at Mavis Tire. Went to remove a housing on a Rav4. Popped the Nut right out of the tool. Took it home at the end of my shift. And hit it with my Mig 140. Fortunately it was a Steel Tool purchased at Advance Auto. Stopped in there a few days later. Associate said she replaced several with that same issue. Looked at a new one. You can see a Tiny weld inside. Had to hold it in my hand while welding. Its not pretty. But seems to work.
Fantastic, I really enjoyed this video.
How critical is the presence of that perforated metal tube in the housing? I bought a Lexus back in May and noticed that it didn’t have the perforated tube in the filter housing. I’ve since done another oil change and have learned that this tube should be in all Toyota oil filter housings. I’m going to replace the entire filter housing but my concern is how urgent and imperative is it that I get a new one in there ?
I would do it soon. Is the oil light on while you drive or idle? If it is, I would do it immediately.
Yep, Lexus dealer service department overtightened the plastic housing, and it broke when I tried to unscrew it! And I have all the right tools!
The “tech” at my Toyota dealer thinks 18 ft/lbs = 30 seconds with a 3/4” air hammer at full whack. Then he does a final check with a 3’ breaker bar and a strong grunt.
Prolly just being an ass on purpose
Must be a jiffy lube tech
I changed my oil for the first time yesterday on my camry and when I was tightening the filter I kept hearing some clicks wasn’t sure when it bottoms out. How can I tell when it bottoms out . Thanks
At this point in the video, He explains how you know when you bottom out. ua-cam.com/video/R-H_rS7mq5c/v-deo.html
If you don't oil the O-ring, it can make a clicking sound.
Great video, Helped me a lot with my new 2016 Scion. Thank you!
Glad it helped! If you have any videos that you would like to see us cover please leave a comment.
Thanks for this info....first video on this I have seen that covers exactly how the filter housing should be installed... What I was missing is that you bottom it out before you torque it to spec. Funny thing I just changed the filter in my 2012 Highlander and I hand tightened the housing until it bottomed out.....I thought no way it could be all the way in so backed it out and tightened it again...same thing... So I put the torque wrench on it set to 27 foot pounds (spec says 25 ft pnd plus or minus 5ft pnds) and wrench released immediately... So I assumed something must not be right ..but went ahead and finished the oil change and checked for leaks.. so far it looks ok . But will do a brief road test tomorrow and check again. Cheers!
Very good video And really impressed with torque specs
Great explanation! What is the part number for the metal housing?
Excellent video!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video.
When I bought my Tundra, the oil filter had been changed only twice by a dealer since it was brand new. The metal disk wouldn’t come off without unscrewing the filter body, so I removed the whole thing. I had to use a vice and breaker bar to separate the metal cap from the plastic filter body. Needless to say, I replaced the housing. Since I do my own oil changes, I don’t expect issues after this. Probably won’t let a dealer near it.
Great video. Fantastic job explaining everything
Great info as always
I do my own oil change for all my Toyota vehicles, 18ft lb are what I used for tighten my oil filter.
We need all mechanics to be like you and not to rip us off.
A lot of dealerships just over tighten oil filter housing purposely.
Nicely done. Bravo.
Thank you!
great info! we are all Tighter is better, torque monsters. So, I will beware. maybe mark my Housing and Drain so I don't forget.
Two questions: 1) Why doesn’t Toyota make the metal cartridge the OEM factory part instead of the plastic? 2) In this video the ambient noise is pretty light, but if you’re in a noisy environment, how are you supposed to hear the spec click of the torque wrench?
The dealer here wants $263 cnd for a new housing.
You can feel the click in the wrench.
@@donwhitee3955 bought and aluminum one at O'reiley for $29
GREAT VID! Thanks Charlie
Great video, and why did you not decide to install the aluminum filter housing and went ahead with the plastic one with all the issues being posted on the internet on these plastic housing?
Make sure that the metal housing comes from Toyota, not aftermarket, or else it will void your warranty possibly if oil related damage...use oem black composite housing, commonly referred to as plastic
First oil change on my daughters 2022 4runner since the prepaid dealer changes. I needed to buy a high priced all steel tool made for a 1/2 inch breaker bar and used a 3 foot breaker bar to get it loose. Nobody could ever convince me that this wasn’t over tightened deliberately. These filter housings will not rattle loose and fall off even if they are finger tight. I don’t care how many heating and cooling cycles it goes through it will never tighten itself to 100’s of pounds of torque.
The one and only time I took my '18 4RNR to the TOYOTA dealer for an oil change (weather was too miserable to do at home like usual).... the grossly over-tightened EVERYTHING. Never again.
This is the main reason I change my own oil on my 2017 Tacoma. Even dealer service techs over-tighten the oil filter housing.
The oil filter housing is impossible to overtighten. OEM filter/oring well wetted with fresh oil turned in on cold engine goes smoothly until it bottoms out.
@@anurakboribun2560 When the a$$holes use an impact to tighten the canister... it will be tight as hell or they will crack the housing. The service techs cracked the housing on my brother's 2015 4-Runner. The housing is stamped with tighten to 18 ft/lbs. I always use a torque wrench.
@@stephenmaurer7008 I know it is stamped. You are right about $$holes because whoever approaches the filter with impact either to remove or install deserves to be called butcher not mechanic. They do not think. Old CANister filter had small thread screw and then landed on gasket. This thing has large thread going over huge oring gasket as it goes in. It gives different feel of resistance. It should be tightened with steady gentle force not jerking or whacking because that is the easiest way to cross thread especially the plastic version. I assure you turned slowly this thing will go evenly until it reaches the end. Sad that mechanics do not have enough imagination to notice that. One complicating factor, non Toyota filter may have orings made out of some crap that does not respond well to removing. When I put it in gently I know for sure threads are not crossed, I always remove it easily too. Again no jerking with the stupid impact, slow steady pull does it until about half way then the rest by bare hand. Once again: to install - original gasket, lubricate it well with fresh oil, approach installation when engine is fairly cold because it expands noticeably when hot. Forget the torque wrench because it could be tricky and fooled many, gentle steady even pulls until you feel resistance of the end of possibility. You may get surprised how simple it is. Next time of removal you will remember that it was easy on so you will have your confidence that it must be removable. Stay away from "mechanics" utilizing impact wrenches. Just replaced three wheel studs, somebody overkilled them ☺
Very good video!!!
great video! What is the part number on the replacement oil filter cartridge housing? Video shows a metal replacement part- Part Number/where/how to order please and thank you kindly!
Excellent tutorial
Thank you!
indeed
Great video .I earned a lot. thanks
A Toyota dealer torqued my Rav4 oil filter housing so tight that, unbeknownst to me, they didn't change my oil filter when they changed my oil. I didn't know until I couldn't remove the oil filter, even by using a long wrench extension, when I tried to do a DIY oil change. My Rav4 was 5yr old at that time, so I don't know how old was the oil filter. This also explains why the oil had a darker amber color after they did a new oil change. It also explains why the oil is always overfilled by half a quart ... it's because they did not remove the old oil sitting in the oil filter housing. When asked, the service manager convinced me that everything was normal. I now service all four of my Toyotas somewhere else.
Thanks for the Toyota part numbers
Thank you for this video!
You are so welcome!
Hand tight keeps filters on for tens of thousands of miles. No need for an impact putting one on. I have needed to gun a few off, however. I just set my M18 to 70ftlb, and gently slap away. It works, but I’m always nervous and it’s a total last resort before exotic measures begin to be considered.
What make and model is that torque wrench?
When it bottoms out tight with the wrench cap, just get it snug tight and your good. The heat will get the oil filter tighter. Its like using the old cannister filter where tou just hand tight snug tight it and your good.
For the 2011 Corolla, there is an inexpensive workaround.
I bought a quality brand 1/4 in torque wrench. It generally "clicks when it's supposed to but I was so paranoid after cracking my first filter housing I arrived at a simple workaround that gives me the desired torque, without overtightening. I also do not require a torque wrench.
First ... when removing the housing, as gently as possible, unscrew the housing. Do not yank, grab, jerk or wrestle the housing off. Gently, gently unscrew the cap until finger loose. Remove normally after that.
When tightening, gently tighten the cap towards the housing (base) surface. Just before you've tightened it fully, ensure you can insert a 0.15mm feeler gauge between the cap and the base. If you have a snug (not tight) fit. You're good to go.
But I repeat, gently, gently tighten the housing down to that gap. More and you risk cracking the housing a few months later when you change your filter. Generally that is when the caps crack.
This has worked without issue for two full oil changes without leaking and the housing was easy to twist off without an initial jerk or tug to loosen. It just immediately began to twist out as soon as I put the faintest pressure on it. That's it. Guaranteed "decent" accuracy of torque without overtightening and without a torque wrench.
Best of days to all.
Okay, But how do you take it off if it brakes, and there's no where for the factory socket tool to grab onto?
You can break it apart inside the housing, I blocked off the Oil galley to engine area with Blue Shop Towels, then preceded to tear into housing, ( I already had new one ready.) if had to take Dremel to part that was inside threads, just cutting a nice groove into inside plastic housing, once groove cut established, pried it little and it boke on Groove line, allowing me to pull it all out, Cleaned housing and replaced. Left Sharpie note on oil pan, No Torque wrench !
Hey Niko, Your in my bay i used to work in. Electric lift gone? Does John Ball still work there? Your Dad and Mom retire? Good to see your still in buisness and going strong!!!
On my 2018 Highlander I got it with 7000 miles on it and the first oil change I had a hell of a time getting that housing off all the way to the last turn, I figured the threads where destroyed from the dealership over tighten but that was not the case, the threads looked perfect, I mean it was very hard to turn off, I was about to buy a new metal housing but the plastic one looked fine, so I just put some anti seize on the threads and the next oil chang worked like a dream, I quess the dry threads of plastic against metal just made it hard to turn, and I don’t take the little drain plug out and let it drain, I just loosen the housing and take the filter out, dump oil out of housing and put new o ring and filter in and screw back on, do my Avalon the same way, 40’000 on the Highlander and 80 on the Avalon,no problems
Is the torque setting 18 ft-lbs including the use of a 6-inch extension, or should the calculation for the extension have been performed, which would have increased the torque setting?
love it😁
I have 2016 Toyota Corolla. I have just replaced a housing with a new aftermarket (Dorman I believe from and put a new O-ring from a new filter in. However I still see red O-ring exposed after tightening the housing by hand pretty tight.
Is it bad that I still see red/orange O-ring exposed? Or it is not tight enough or I did something (put in an O-RING wrong)?
You shouldn't see any o-ring after it's been properly torqued. Purchase a torque wrench. They're not too much money and are needed often if performing your own work.
Since the large O-ring seals on the diameter and not the face all you have to do is gently snug the housing till it stops on the face....the little metal clip will prevent the housing from backing out if it ever tries to...but it never has on our 2 Toyotas, the friction of the O-ring is enough....as a tool designer I have incorporated hundreds of O-ring applications in industrial tooling....
Our RAV4 had the first three oil changes free at the dealer, and the first time I did it myself I had to use a long breaker bar and brace myself with my feet on the back of front tire to get it loose. I was really afraid of breaking it. I've done a few changes on it now and just snug the filter. The last time I did it the filter started turning while I was trying to remove the little drain cover. Oops! I suppose I need to start torqueing them.
Same thing! Just tried to do the 4th oil change this morning and it was so tight it broke.
Thanks sor.
Recently bought rav4 17 with this plastic canister. It was stuck real good, I had to chisel it out 😢 and of course it was destroyed
This just happened to me - Jiffy Lube overtightened, I paid for their mistake at my new oil change place. Jiffy Lube's $100 oil change was getting a bit extreme, and they usually has some kind of issue.....
Just did a relative's '17 Tundra.
Very hard to remove. After install, checked for leaks and there was a tiny crack in the webbing of the notch/ear.
Replaced with metal housing from Autozone $32.
2023 tacoma with 15k miles bought it at 9k. called stealership to confirm that they were the ones that had done two oil changes before i bought. the housing unit was absolutely impossible to take out with a ratchet even applied a tube to it to get better force to twist and nothing. broke a 3/8 METAL extension from how hard we were trying to get it off. first time doing an oil change on this so i 1000% made sure i wasn't tightening it. tried for hours and just gave up because even a impact gun couldn't take it out.... called the stealership the next day and they assured me they did not over tightened it. i will be taking it to them so they can deal with it but after that i will never get it serviced with them again
I work at a lube center in the pit (below the car) have had many of these things break even if at torque spec it’s a crap design best thing to do is replace the stock plastic one to a metal one they are way stronger so should it weld it’s self you can get it back off. Without having to chisel the remains out and risk more damage.
I think some mechanics mis interpret the stamping on the bottom of the housing is in nm not foot lbs and are torquing it to 25 ft lbs instead of nm
You don’t even need that SST (special service tool) to get that housing off. KD and CTA makes a 14 flute filter wrench that goes over the end of the housing -works just fine👍
When you mention “bottom out” the housing, do you mean turning until it absolutely stops, even if it has passed the 18ft/lbs on a torque wrench? It just seems like it doesn’t take much turning to reach 18ft/lb.
Would love to see a good kit to convert It to a spin on filter.
Would've been good to know earlier. Now I'm gonna miss a day of work to find a new housing.