THANK YOU for showing the ACTUAL issues that may arise. THANK YOU for showing the step of how to get it back in with all the layers of foam (and the difficulty). This is the FIRST video of 15 that showed reality and honesty. As well as a realistic time frame, 2 hours.
really helpful video! Also, I appreciate seeing little mistakes and challenges along the way. You made really solid points about choice of materials. my attic hatch is a little smaller and almost square so I might struggle with a few things that were no problem for you :) but I'll do what I can to beef mine up!
Good video in effort. I see you are trying to be efficient. Some comments: I am noticing many are technologically savvy on what to do, but fail on workmanship skillets, then excuse the errors/mistakes. It becomes harder to unlearn bad mistakes than it is to do it right the first time. Note: One could router the outside edges of the attic cover so it ultimately covers the unsightly look of weather stripping AND has more flush appearance.
Thinking of me aging and over head strength in future. On the back of the board could I staple a extra large pillow case, that over lapse the size of door so covers over door edges, as i lift up on the door now to enter the attic, fill it with blown in cellulose, vel-crove shut so can refill as needed. Lol do you think it would work ? As my logic says it should.
pillow case would round out and leave lots of open air space around it. the foam isn't that heavy, so if anything the bulk of the reduced weight would come in the door itself.
same for this, it is combustible. The blown in insulation I have in the attic is fire rated, so if the concern is a fire spreading, I don't think there's any realistic situation where the fire will start in the hatch.
you would have been a little better off, by cutting a new hatch wood itself, then installing a 1" foam board, BEFORE installing the 2x4 trim pieces. This would help prevent a little bit of thermal bridging from the cold attic to the out trim of the door board. Not a big deal, but one extra layer. Otherwise good job. I'm looking to re-do mine as well.
The 2x4s were used to straighten the bow in the plywood. At the time, any sort of quality finish, even just one side, for 3/4" plywood, was well over 100$. In this case, it's not a matter of thermal bridging because there's no direct cold contact on the other side of the 2x4. It gets the foam insulation above, and there have to be all sorts of air gaps around to be able to move it anyway. Makes me wonder if anyone's manufacturing these to be more door or window like.
depends on the elderly person I'd say... if they're able to climb a ladder to get up to it, they can probably lift it up enough to get it out of the way. once it's in, you don't bring it down to get to the attic, you push the hatch up into the attic.
THANK YOU for showing the ACTUAL issues that may arise. THANK YOU for showing the step of how to get it back in with all the layers of foam (and the difficulty). This is the FIRST video of 15 that showed reality and honesty. As well as a realistic time frame, 2 hours.
really helpful video! Also, I appreciate seeing little mistakes and challenges along the way. You made really solid points about choice of materials.
my attic hatch is a little smaller and almost square so I might struggle with a few things that were no problem for you :) but I'll do what I can to beef mine up!
Mans is the insulation master 😂
"Anything can be a hammer..."
And when that doesn't work, GET A BIGGER HAMMER!
Good video in effort. I see you are trying to be efficient. Some comments:
I am noticing many are technologically savvy on what to do, but fail on workmanship skillets, then excuse the errors/mistakes. It becomes harder to unlearn bad mistakes than it is to do it right the first time.
Note: One could router the outside edges of the attic cover so it ultimately covers the unsightly look of weather stripping AND has more flush appearance.
Good idea! haven't painted it yet so might just do that
It would have been a lot easier to handle your finished panel if you put some handholds on the bottom side before attaching the foam.
people here like the look of no handles
Doesn't fire code require the attic access panel to be sheetrock for firebreak?
inspector didn't say so, might be different where you are.
also with the amount of insulation on top, that's way more fire break than drywall
Thinking of me aging and over head strength in future. On the back of the board could I staple a extra large pillow case, that over lapse the size of door so covers over door edges, as i lift up on the door now to enter the attic, fill it with blown in cellulose, vel-crove shut so can refill as needed. Lol do you think it would work ? As my logic says it should.
pillow case would round out and leave lots of open air space around it. the foam isn't that heavy, so if anything the bulk of the reduced weight would come in the door itself.
Thank you for feedback :)
Hi could you have sealed the edges/corners or the box with low expansión foam or caulk?
we use weather stripping here so you can still access it
What’s the fire rating on the foam? The stuff in the box stores all say flammable.
same for this, it is combustible. The blown in insulation I have in the attic is fire rated, so if the concern is a fire spreading, I don't think there's any realistic situation where the fire will start in the hatch.
“Painting can fix that” typical 💀
how would you fix?
you would have been a little better off, by cutting a new hatch wood itself, then installing a 1" foam board, BEFORE installing the 2x4 trim pieces. This would help prevent a little bit of thermal bridging from the cold attic to the out trim of the door board. Not a big deal, but one extra layer. Otherwise good job. I'm looking to re-do mine as well.
The 2x4s were used to straighten the bow in the plywood. At the time, any sort of quality finish, even just one side, for 3/4" plywood, was well over 100$.
In this case, it's not a matter of thermal bridging because there's no direct cold contact on the other side of the 2x4. It gets the foam insulation above, and there have to be all sorts of air gaps around to be able to move it anyway. Makes me wonder if anyone's manufacturing these to be more door or window like.
Would a piece of R19 batt insulation be better?
it all comes down to the r-value you want - I like the ridgid insulation for this because I can keep it as a unit with the attic hatch
How heavy is that? Could an elderly person handle it?
depends on the elderly person I'd say... if they're able to climb a ladder to get up to it, they can probably lift it up enough to get it out of the way. once it's in, you don't bring it down to get to the attic, you push the hatch up into the attic.
i need to find this with stairs..
stairs are harder, but I do have a vid on them!
I appreciate what you are showing, but the photography is making me a little woozy... I will make it the end though.
I get it - it's a poor compromise between "be live streaming on twitch" and "actually get work done and not move cameras every 2 minutes"
@MooseDoesStuff I still learned a lot though! 😀
Probably saved about £1 for the year
take the insulation out of your attic hatch in Canada and lmk if you still feel that way 😆