Coil Test {would you look at that!]
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
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I removed the coils off my Evinrude to test and inspect them. What I found was totally unexpected, That is way it is important to check your motor each season. One of the spark plug wires was breaking down. The motor would still run because of the high voltage spark going to the spark plug, but it would not pass the service manual ohm test. I will replace both wires. When you catch it early, that is the stuff that will leave you stranded and make a good day on the water a not so good day. I just wanted to share this with you.
From Melbourne, Australia, thanks for your vid. I'm, just getting into the repair side of my 81 50hp Johnson electrical issues. You explain it so well and it's so nice how others add their little bit of wisdom as well.
Bravo, Your videos are always helpful and turned me into an outboard motor mechanic on my old Evinrude 1977 4 hp
Great to hear! Helping each other is what its all about!!
Love your video's, you always hit the nail on the head when it comes to fixing my problems. Had a skip and did the "cough" fix and it works a lot better, but still a low speed skip or roughness. I checked the coils last year and again after watching this video and coils read 258 & 256 so they are well within range, checked the plug wires and this time moved them around like you show and my readings were all over the place....... Never thought of doing that....... 2 new wires ordered..... Thanks for your hekpful video's....... Keep'em coming!!
Happy to help. Hope your days are good on the water.
When measuring resistance on a multimeter, you should be using the top Ohms (green) scale and reading from the right side of the scale backwards. You should be using a lower ohms setting as the 275 ohms you are reading is actually 2.75 on the scale. Rather than Ohms x 1k which reads 0.275 you should be using Ohms x10 which would read 27 on the scale and give you a much clearer answer. A digital meter here would probably be a better choice. A spark plug lead that reads an open circuit may still work if it has only a small gap in the lead, this gap will get bigger and eventually cause the engine to misfire so it is good practice to replace it.
Thanks for keeping me straight. Thank you for taking the time to correct me. Stay Safe.
This is like an asmr video for outboard mechanics... I love it
Thanks!! Happy to help keep watching.
i have problem ..fast slow,,fast slow..this plug very same like my plug..
Thanks for the video. I was having trouble with my Evinrude 8hp. I thought it was coil or spark issues. As it turns out, after a call to our local outboard expert, it was a wet kill switch in the handle. I had noticed a tingling when holding the handle and touching the outboard casing. I disconnected the end of the kill lead from the coil mount and it started right up on first pull! I will look into replacing the kill in the handle with one on the body.
Thanks again for going to the effort of making the video.
Cheers.
Happy to help and thanks for sharing that information that will be on the check list.
Om Fishing ?...?!,,,,,!!!..?.???.?.,,,,,?
Thanks Will see what happens.
Is that your body
Im going to subscribe simply because you have the decency to respond to you viewers questions. All channels should be like this. Good job!
Thanks for watching and subscribing. Stay Healthy!!!
That sure looks like an old Starcraft Cuddy cabin in your intro.
I hope youll see my restoration too.
Thanks for this info
Wow! This actually solved my problem. Never would have thought to check the spark plug cables. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting. Happy to help!!!
Also get someone to pull the starter in the dark and watch for spark leaks from cracked leads or coil box... a good starting point at sea
Thanks so much Sir..!! Your an Excellent Boat Mechanic and Teacher as well..!!
Thank you for the kind words.
I really appreciate you brother 🙌💯 never ever worked on a boat motor before and you have helped me help an ol timer out. I wish I knew how to post a vid to this on how you helped. Again thank you for your knowledge 💯. Blessed Be!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
Very clear explanation, I have a Johnson 25HP without spark, I tested coils and plug leads, one coil was bad plus both leads. Now runs great. thankyou!
Happy to have helped. Thanks for watching and Stay Safe!!
I got a little lost there. You used the ohm scale to check from primary to ground, but you used the amperage scale (actually 0-250ma I think) to check across the primary & spark terminals. There coil isn't connected to power & ground so there's no draw (amperage) to test for. Looked like you were getting about 0.3 to 0.4 ohms when you checked from primary to spark terminal on both coils.
I did notice I read the wrong scale when I look up at the meter. I think everybody got the idea on how to check the coils. Thanks for commenting and as always keep watching.
Great video, super helpful. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge!
Thanks for commenting Stay Safe.
Really enjoyed the video. I noticed a yello wire as well as a black wire (right around where you were talking about the torque settings) a bare spot on both wires. If it's not a problem now, it will be in the future and will be a head scratcher...
Great video.. Showing the failed coil to plug wire serves a great example for simply checking components before moving forward with the guessing gamble.. failure Teaches.
That is so right!! Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Healthy!!!
Is he not using the green Ohms scale but is reading on the 250 Volt scale?
No answer so guess you're right
Ya, it’s reading around 300 ohms on the correct scale so he accidentally tested it good lol
Lol I mean he still got the right results
Excellent video and explanation of your work, thank-you for your time and knowledge. john
Thank You!! After watching your vid I checked my spark plug wire. Same thing. Perhaps good enough for high voltage...but corroded too much for the little multi-meter. Time for a new one. *(1990s MARS Military Line OMC 30hp)
Happy it helped. Thanks for commenting. Stay Safe.
I just checked my coils due to no spark on one that had been replaced at some point with an aftermarket one.I followed your same exact procedure and the coil ohmed out the same as the one that was working and it still gives no or intermittent spark.I even swapped plug wires and swapped the coil wire coming from ignition module and same result.I even took a good coil from another running motor and it sparked fine.So I guess even a coil with good ohm readings can not work properly.
Thanks for sharing that information with me. The service manual does not tell you that. That is the school of hard knocks.
I’m having the same problem bottom cylinder has no spark and the coil ohm out good but it was the coil even it ohm out still wouldn’t work until I put a new one on it
Thank you for sharing this helpful video. One suggestion I have is that you not apply dielectric grease to the top (metal) of the spark plugs. Dielectric grease is an insulator and having it between the plug and plug wire may result in poor electrical connectivity. The grease should only be applied to the ceramic (white) portion of the plug. Doing so helps prevent arcing between the spark plug wire tip and the engine ground. - Cheers!
Thanks for the tip. That is what it is all about helping each other.
I just noticed that there's dielectric grease inside my coil wire ends. The side that goes to the coil. Would that cause issues?
Great video!
Great vid. Thank you.
I had no spark on one plug. Turned out to be bad spark plug cable plus there was only one fibre washer behind the coil. This must have caused it to short out against the engine block!
It always makes us feel good when we fix it our self. Good Job.
I have a 2 stoke which had a the kill switch issue
On Johnson and Evinrude motors coil wiring remember Blue Sky up and Green grass down. blue stripe is top wire and green stripe is bottom wire on three cylinder motors the center will have no stripe. Coil values very from year to year always check the manual. Coil wire failure is common on outboard motors more so if used in Salt water. The bolt heads are 3/8" not 10mm on all OMC coils come on uses the right tool. The quickest way to check total output at the coils is to use a Air gap spark tester most OMC product should jump a 7/16 to 1/2" gap. Power packs are another failure point but output needs to be check with a peak reading volt meter Values vary from year to year and horse power so check the book. Thirty Six years as a marine mechanic I have seen just about every thing.
Thanks for sharing your years of knowledge with us. There are so many people out there that are just trying to have a family day or a father son fishing trip using old equipment. Making use of what they have to work with. They are not going to take it to a marine or a lot of them can not afford to. Just trying to help them make a memory. You should think about starting a channel you have so much knowledge to share. Thanks for commenting and sharing.
I had exactly the same thing, thank you for the video!
Did you find out why the top spark plug was wet and bottom one was carbond up because that’s what’s happening to mine..cheers..
Are you using the same scale for both readings? Should use the low ohms scale for primary and high ohms scale for secondary..These coils are pretty reliable but you have hit on a common problem....High resistance in the plug leads due to rusted pin terminals, always something that should be checked...Another problem area is the primary wire connection, they get loose and corroded....I know that the OMC manual talks about checking the secondary between the primary and secondary terminals, and that works fine on this engine, but each circuit should be checked to the ground strap in order to isolate the primary/secondary windings on the coil....Your plugs look fairly normal for the 32CI OMC models. They look different because of the darn recirculation system which is there to reduce the amount of unburned fuel/oil dumped back into the water....These engines can be frustrating because they are tough to dial in at idle, mainly due to the uneven conditions in the cylinders caused by the recirculation system...This was introduced in the early 70s, idle quality dropped off dramatically.
Thank you very much for catching that and for sharing your knowledge with us. That is what my channel is about just keeping the old stuff running and enjoying the day at the water.
Well, like I said, you hit on one of the major problems with these coils...The goofy plug terminals/wires...The pin often loses connection with the copper wire core, and gets rusted. This can surely cause ignition problems and increase the load on the coil secondary winding...
87 Mitsubishi Mighty Max cranks builds compression and backfires no start
is there a way to hook up a manifold vacuum gauge to these things?
Great video please keep them coming your a great teacher
Thanks Keep watching and stay safe.
Hi, love your videos..I’m having the same problem with my 2001 25 hp Johnson top plug is wet bottom one is carbond up I put two new coils on but hasn’t changed.Can you help me..
Hi, I found the same with my 2001 25 hp Johnson the top plug was wet bottom one was carbond up what did you find as the cause .Thanks.
Thank you for the video, great information
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting.
Thank you for the good work
No problem 👍Stay safe!!
I have a fluke meter I got it used for 25 bucks older but works great thanks for the videos
I am sure it will serve you well. Thanks for sharing. Stay Safe.
Hey man new subscriber here. Can u make a video on where all the fuel lines and vacuum lines go for a johnson outboard similar to this one
Sure I will see what I can do. Thanks for sub.
Thanks for your videos👍😬
My pleasure! Stay Safe,
Where me I you get the parts for your .motor and do you have I for on the black dials inside motor that controls the choke and the run
I bought the parts for this job on line at boatnet.com
Hello brother, happy new year. I hope you and your family are well. I'm doing great with the evinrude 25 engine, but I can't get the recoil piston, the rest works very well. thanks for the help from the other time. Greetings and hugs from Venezuela: Pdt: my English is very bad and I use the google translator. Cheers
Espero que 2021 seja um bom ano para você e sua família. Parece que você está indo bem com seu motor. Eu uso o google tradutor também. Fique seguro.
I'm running a 84 Evinrude, E25RCR. It's not pissing real good while idling. It does good while running. Also the bottom coil seems like it's been getting hot. It's not melted but it's damn near. I got the motor about a month ago. I replaced the slow speed idle retainer and it runs great. Yesterday after running the motor for a hour or so it was pissing water that was very hot. Is that normal. What I'm wondering is if the water pump is weak. What would make the bottom coil get too hot?
I read 3 ohms on the meter for the coil primary test. ????????
Thanks for keeping me in line.
Mine are both reading .950 and it's not running too poorly. What's this mean?
Enjoying and learning,thanks.
This is definitely off topic, but I need help doing the linkage adjusting/synchronization on my 1997 Johnson 15hp tiller model 2strk. The manual says to remove pin retaining throttle lever connector. However, you cannot access this without removing the lower power head cowling, which I attempted to do but there is one screw I cannot get to as it is almost underneath the power head by the latch mechanism and no way to access. Was wondering if anyone has ever been successful performing this synchro procedure and if so, how did you successfully remove that last screw (located inside the cowling, towards the back of the powerhead, right by the latch mechanism)? Thanks in advance!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
You're not reading the Ohm scale/meter correctly. This will cause confusion to those are not aware. You would be better off using a DVM (Digital Multimeter) to avoid error.
other thing is to mega them to ground...as if there is an intermittent problem, of tracking to ground ,which can happen with the high volts side this will show up
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Always willing to learn.
Hey here's my story . Owned an 88 model 4 cylinder 50 Merc. Ran a bit shitty so I took the stator ring off to find corrosion had chewed the wiring to an inch of its life. Wires looked like human hair. New stator wiring set...no worries. Old out board need a real close look
You are so right. I have done the same thing. You look at, it looks good you think your getting the better end of the deal. Then you get it home.
1977 Evinrude 25 25702H the kill switch did not work. I bought oem new switch with wire. Installed, still does not work. Any ideas?
I don't think it is grounded good. check your ground wire
Hello Sir, thank you for educating us. My Johnson 25hp doesnt have spark whatsoever, I followed your ignition coil test and both of mine comes out at 145 instead of the the 275 range. Also, when I do ground (neg) and primary terminal on coil (pos) I get zero ohms. I have not tested anything else other than using new plugs to find the same result. Does this mean my ignition coils are bad and is causing my no plug issue?
The service manual is where I got my specifications from. The resistance is not where the manual said they should be. If it were mine I would buy a set of coils. It is possible there is more that coils but that is a good starting point.
@@OmFishing I tested the two black/white wires coming from stator and got a reading of 37.7ohms. (Terminals B&C on the harness adapter coming from stator plate)……Tested two wires brown/white coming from what I guess is the trigger on the same plate as the first two wires (A&C) and got a reading I tested the two black/white wires coming from stator and got a reading of 37.7ohms. Terminals B&C on the harness adapter coming from stator plate)……Tested two wires brown/white coming from what I guess is the trigger on the same plate as the first two wires (A&C) and got a reading of 490…..Can you please shed some light on what does this all mean? And where should I look next?
Note: I confirmed coils/plug wires/spark plugs are all good by way of swapping them with a Johnson 50hp with strong spark and spark continued each time.
How do you know what they should be reading to use as your base for determining if the readings you are getting on the coils falls within normal operating parameters?
The service manual reads that the Primary Resistance should be 0.1+-0.05 ohms. The secondary resistance should be 275+-50. Thanks for watching.
good explications Om Fishing but can you repeat to all everybody the clear measurement from ground(black) to primary (red); from primary(red) to spark terminal /black)and for cable in numbers and in ohm or amphere? thank you in advance
The primary resistance for the coil is 0.1 (+ -) 0.05 ohm. If the coil is off the engine. Connect the meter black lead to ground tab on the coil, and connect the red lead to the primary coil.
The secondary resistance connect the meter red lead to coil primary terminal. connect meter black lead to coil spark plug terminal. Meter must show 275 (+-)50 ohms. Hope this helps. Stay Safe
@@OmFishing Many thanks for data; Sure this helps me very much;Have a happy new year 2021
@@domenicogiannattasio9037 I hope 2021 is good for you as well. Stay Safe!!!
Thank you so much. We ordered 3 coil packs and they do not look anything like the one on the boat nor on your video. Everywhere I search I do not see the ones with the wires coming from the back of the coil. Can you direct me to where you got yours?
Thanks
I always order OEM parts. accept for a video i have coming up where I am going to compare after marker to OEM.
www.amazon.com/shop/omfishing
Hey where can i get one of these and what is the name of them
The multi meter I used in the video was from Walmart. Check out my Amazon link in tools. I get a small commission.
Great education! 👍👍
Just an FYI on the plug wires.I made my own by ordering the 7mm wire and I just reused the boots and the small piece inside the boot.No issues doing it this way.My guess is the piece inside one of the boots was not making good contact where it pokes into the wire and not the wires running thru the insulation.
They say the electrical system on the outboard is the weak link. Look there first. Guess they are right. Stay Safe.
check your brown wire who go at the dead switch. he look little bad for me. I see the cupper wire inside.
Well, good luck with your thing mister : )
My 81 7.5 was burning weird on one plug .about the time I got the carb right I lost all power ...probanly the cod box I'm guessing any suggestions ..btw great and helpful videos
I would check the flywheel first make sure the magnets are still there and the key way is good. Make sure all wires are good. They are connected and you have a good ground to the engine. I check every possible cause before I buy parts.
Guess I'm going to buy and learn how to use a multimeter today. Thank you
Good luck! You can do it.
@@OmFishing Top plug wire was the problem. It was cutting out after the engine warmed up. I clamped the connector tighter and cleaned it up, it snapped right on and she is running beautifully. A full carb rebuild later, I should have watched your video first
so if my coils are cracked on my 25hp johnson 1975 model does that mean they are bad I've not got a tester to check for sure???
They could work well. Just remember Electricity and Water.
Hello sir, big fan of your videos, I own a 30hp Evinrude like yours but with electric start. I have a question unrelated to this video.
On your 30hp, exactly how would you test the fuel pump. Where do you hook up the tester lines, there's really no line from the fuel pump to the carb. Im hoping you can answer this for me as your videos have helped me a ton with my motor. Thank you
I am not sure what model you have. If you send me the year and model you have I will be happy to try to help you. I am thinking there is a fuel line behind the fuel pump going to the bottom of the carb.
@@OmFishing my motor is a 1996 30hp omc Evinrude model e30elede
@@richdalpe9681 On the fuel pump the fuel line at the back right corner goes to the carb. That is where you would have to get the pump pressure. If you go to the web site Boat Net and click on evinrude and then year and then model. you can see the break down.
@@OmFishing ok I see what you mean, now would I disconnect that line at both the fuel pump and carb to get a reading or am I able to get it off the pump. Sorry this is my first time doing this and I watched your video with the 9.9. you make it look easy lol
@@richdalpe9681 You want to get your reading between the pump and the carb. I would take it off the carb and get my reading from the line coming from the pump.
Hey I have a 2003 yamaha f115 txrb I just repower to this motor and It ran great the first few hours. The. It suddenly started running very ruff and started stalling out. I had changed both fuel pumps and filters.. The motor will only crank and run right when I push the trim button by as soon as I let go of the trim button the motor will stall out and not crank again till I push the trim button. I'm at a loss .. The motor will only run when the trim up or down is being b pushed.. Any ideas would be much appreciated!!!
My first guess would be that it has a bad ground some where. I would clean all engine grounds and make sure the wires are making a good connection. On some evinrude e-tecs if you push the trim and hit the starter at the same time it will change the ground to the smaller wires and burn them in to. I hope this helped.
Ck coil OMS matter. Then ck middle sit carb run too rich black burn has 2 problem. I had same problem replace middle coil. Cylender 2.. then rebuilt all 3 carb. Run dam good.on 90hp mariner
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. That's what it is all about helping each other.
Tank you for your videos.
I have a Mainer 225 efi runs good up until I throttle up then I take me foot off it then it dies. Do you think it’s the coils?
i have 1991 evinrude 15hp (E15REIA) idles perfect runs perfect but doesnt go any faster after half throttle rebuilt carbs twice, new spark wires,fuel pump, spark plugs, only thing left is coils but one time on the lake it cleared up and ran like a bat out of hell but only did it once. any idea of whats going on? 125psi compression in both cylinders.
I would make sure the fuel lines are in good condition o rings in fuel connector are good. Have you check your linkage for proper adjustment. Have you ever started it in the dark to see if the coils are leaking voltage?
Can you come to Texas City Texas and completely rebuild my 1980Mariner 40 hp 2-stroke ?
PLEASE
I would like to go to Texas, But I don't think I can do that for you as much as I would like to help You out. Good Luck and stay safe!!
Thank you sir very good idea
Happy it helped. Thanks for commenting and as always keep watching!
Well done video. Thanks
Happy to help and as always keep watching.
How about the secondary coil?(Between spark plug cable and earth)
I did not test the coil for leakage in this video. I will make sure to check for flashover and broken down insulation in the next test. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
So what was the reason to check the coils? Would be nice if you first started with an explanation of the engine problem... runs rough, low power, only sounds like it runs w one cylinder firing, etc. Showing a dry plug and a wet plug could be many root causes.
Thanks for the tip, I will make sure to include that from now on. This video I thought it was only running on one cylinder. Loss of power.
I have a 9.9 1996 evinrude. It wouldnt hold an idle and only run if you sprayed eether. So I replaced fuel pump, cleaned and rebuilt the carb (thanks to your other video!), new gas line, cleaned water pump hole, and replaced new plugs. Still wont hold an idol. In fact now it wont fire at all. Could it be I should test or replace ignition coils?
I would test the kill switch first. It is possible the coil went bad, but you need to check them. At over 50 dollars per coil and over 100 for a power pack you want to be sure. Check the wires. When you say will not fire at all. Do you mean will not start or no spark at the spark plugs.
@@OmFishing there is now no spark on the plugs. Whats odd is the top plug had fire but the bottom didnt prior to it finally dying out. Tested the ohm on coils and they read like 12.
I did not test the powerpack yet.
Thanks for your time sir!
Update: I switched out both coils with new ones and new connector wires/boots too. The thing fired right up first pull and held idle.
But... i noticed the pump hole is not peeing anymore. Took the hose off and found dirt clogged at the connection. Tried to clean it but since it's a 90 degree connected to the block I cant clean in there. Any recommendations? Does it twist off? Or, to jet it clean, air blast it? Blow water in it? Spray wd40?
THANKS!!!
@@johnnylawrence It does unscrew from the engine block. I would be easy with it. You could try to flush it with water first. Let me know how it runs.
@@OmFishing sorry late update. I never unscrewed the connection from the block, didnt want to risk breaking it. Instead i sprayed a little carb cleaner into it and let it sit for a bit. I then took a pipe cleaner and tried to loosen as much dirt dobbers as i could. Hooked the line back up, grabbed the hose and earmuffs and started it- the thing peed like normal again.
Took the boat up north and buzzed around the lake for an hour or so, not one flaw,, ran like a champ.
Thank you for all your videos and your time good sir!!!
Hi sir, if one coil has a micro-fissure will you able to diagnose it the way you did ? If the engine is hot will it makes a difference since the micro-fissure can be different size if the coil is cold or hot ?
The nice part about checking this way is that if the coil misfires hot or cold you will see it.
@@OmFishing Thanks for the time you take to answer fast and pretty good videos.
@@FirstWayHockey Thank you for taking your time to comment and watch my videos. As always keep watching.
will you be replaceing the plug wire with a solid core or graphite style ? ie pacard 440 or the carbon wire. as you know carbon is ok if you do not bend it at all the Packard or solid coppercore is more durable.. just asking not telling..
I replaced the plug wire with omc wire. Check out the video New Spark plug wires & Starter pawls.
ua-cam.com/video/A4tIfG6LDE0/v-deo.html
I have a 94 evinrude that runs great on muffs pull throttle screams get in water to run starts to lift boat and just sits at so many rpms, never get on plane or screams just holds at about half or less rpms? Took calon off in neutral hit throttle and revs a little more throw back in gear same problem reckon what is going on here?
I had a 93 evinrude do the same thing. The float was set wrong in the carburetor and would shut the fuel off when the bow would raise. I would check the linkage synchronization too.
Om Fishing thank you for responding! I cleaned top carb, turns out I was running on one carb! Thank you hopefully this trip will plane out
@@KyleC0430 I hope all goes well!!
I just bought a 1996 40 hp johnson with controls and I cant figure out how too rev the engine with it out of gear..the controls dont have the big button too push in too keep the motor from going into gear,it must work some other way,,any advice please?
On my robalo you have to slide the shifter to the left about a 1/4 inch and you can rev it up.
@@OmFishing ok thanks, I'll try that
'100, 150, 200... ' that is the millamp scale you are reading, you need to look at the green scale, that is the resistance. And you have about 0.3 xxx ohms, the xxx is depending on the scale you selected.
Thanks for keeping me straight. Thanks for watching.
Great video sir very helpful
Happy to help. Stay Well.
Your reading the wrong scale on your meter Mate, you had your it set to the x1K ohms range (not volts or milliamps) if you read the ohm scale (in green) you could see it was around the 0.3 mark which on the x1K scale would be 300 ohms. Which is within the range spec you quoted.
Thanks for keeping me straight.
Hello please help me I have a mercury 8hp 2stroke that runs awesome when not in water under load but as soon as I put it in water it will only open up to about 60% and I can’t get the motor on power band but it won’t rev my hub is not spun and I have re built the carburetor I’m lost I have a strong blue spark and my reeds are fine!
I am assuming good compression. I am more of a evinrude johnson guy but. The first thing I would check is the linkage adjustment. It sound to me like the throttle and the timing are not in sink. You don't have to be off by much to make a big difference. Be sure and let me know what you find. Stay Safe.
@@OmFishing thank you I’ll check tomorrow
I got a 28hp.spl I just shut it off and now it isn't getting spark do you think the coils went out
I think wire connection first. You know electric and water don't mix well. Make sure all the ground wires and connection are good. Then check coils.
Thank you I have 3 motors giving to me I love your videos
Sounds like you have some great projects. Good Luck to you. Keep us posted on you progress.
Om Fishing I have a 72 6hp fisherman a64 9.5 evinrude and a 62 hp Johnson 18 hp
Would a bad ignition coil make your outboard want to stall when you go to put it in gear after the engine is warmed up? Mines doing this and it's hard to start whether hot or cold most of the time
Hard start could be a lot of things. I would check out the carburetor. Then I would make sure the fuel supply is good and not leaking air. Next make sure the spark plugs are good. If the engine has low compression that could make it hard to start. The gasket between the carburetor leaking. The crank seals are just as important as the reeds sealing. I know this does not answer you question but there is not a easy answer.
@@OmFishing I have all new plugs I replaced main fuel line pump is good. I did a resistance test on all 6 ignition coils they all passed. I guess next I'll pull carbs off and clean em and check seals and gaskets. I know I have a bubble in fuel filter could that be the whole problem?
@@terrywilson1813 Hello Terry, would you share your experience and tell us what the problem was? That sounds like my engine!
@@1V2N1V2 it was actually my fault...I have an old mercury inline 6 cylinder and I was flooding the carbs because mine you have to prime by pushing in the key and I was doing it by accident every time I restarted the engine. I would assume you're not making the same mistake I was but it sounds like flooding. Start by cleaning the carbs
Thank you for posting
Happy to help, Keep watching and stay safe.
Hey i have a 5hp 4 stroke yamaha, which idles and runs like a dream up to 2800rpm, than starts "4-stroking" it seems like it hits rev limiter, do you think its possible the coil is bad only "half way" since i cleaned and replaced basically everything else i could think of.
I have not run in to that problem before. I am not sure on that one. Be sure and share what you find.
I have a 1994 johnson 48 spl shes hard to start on cold start she was running solid for 15 minutes then died immediately and wont fire back up and is getting no spark i replaced the ignition coils prior, could it be the power pack finally going out? My stator is good cause once cranked my volt meter goes and keeps a steady 13volts
I would make sure the emergency stop switch is working properly. Check all the connections and then start testing each part. Don't think just because it not that old that it is good.
@@OmFishing it was indeed the kill switch
@@OmFishing my 30hp evinrude coughs and shuts off when its cold. After a bit it stops coughing and shutting off and runs better. My plug's are really wet & smokes alot and I noticed alot of oil in the tank I tested the outboard in. Did I mention it smokes ALOT. Help people
@@cramos6638 Check out my video linkage adjustment. Changing the linkage and the timing change help my outboard a lot. The oil is in the gas so the only thing it could be is the carburetor is running rich. There are other thing it could be like crank seals but we need to rule out all the other things first. Are you running the correct spark plugs the manual calls for? .ua-cam.com/video/za6NJfclfkI/v-deo.html
My engine won't shut down.
The kill switch works and is wired right. The internet boat guy says it's a bad power pack.
?
I am going to need more information Like year and model of motor. I would first make sure any ground straps or wires to the engine block are making good connection.
Torque wrench, antisieze & dielectric compound!
Wow, didn't think anyone knew these things in this galaxy.
Nice video. Thank you sir
Brown wire passing over lower coil is worn exposing wire, just an observation 👍
Good catch!!! Thanks for commenting and as always keep watching.
Nice catch!
Thanks Keep watching.
Thank you and keep watching.
Hi I have an 89 evinrude 9.9 it starts and runs great but after it runs for a while if it stalls or I shut it down I can't get it to start up again. Do you have any suggestions.?
Following
Mine 15 johnson is doing the same thing
The three basic things to run. The first thing I would check is fuel. When I buy my gas at walmart "non ethanol" my outboards will do the same. The next step would check to see if the engine has spark when it is warm. The electrical system is a weak link. Check to see if it is getting fuel when it is warm. The fuel has to be the correct proportions. Check the make sure you have the compression. I know you just wanted me to tell you what is wrong, Its not that easy.
You are reading the wrong scale ,top scale is ohms
Have 1957 Johnson 5.5 will crank run just a min rib real high and go dead any idea what is wrong carb has just been rebuilt fuel system has been changed from pressurized to fuel pump ran fine until I changed impeller now won’t stay running spring is here please help
I would recheck the fuel from the tank to the carb. I had one that I rebuilt the carb the fuel pump and new ball in the gas line. It ran for a short time and quit. I started looking for something else because I just went through the fuel system. To make a long story short part of the new fuel line came off one the inside and block the fuel to the carb. So if it sounds like not getting gas it might not be.
Both those coils are bad, you read the meter wrong. Right to left on resistance for that style analog meter and it's the top row of numbers
Good video .
Thanks for watching and commenting Stay Safe.
Oh this video makes me sad because I had sent a similar Evinrude (E30TEEI) to my home in the Philippines back in the early 1990s with the hope of using it when I was able to vacation there. This was a brand new Evinrude still in the original box. When I got to actually trying to use it for the first time I could not because my inflatable boat was eaten by rats that nested where it was stored. Some years later I sent a new boat and when I tried to use the Evinrude this time it was frozen. I guess I should have not trusted the factory fogging to last for many years. Next time I go I try to unfreeze the motor. The Philippines is a tough environment for motors especially near the salt water sea where I am living.
I wish you good luck on your next trip. Thanks for sharing that story with us. That is one more tip to keep in mine when storing a motor for a long time.
the only way that would happen is if you tried to start it and didn't put it away properly, and/or had the cowling off or unlatched to allow air to circulate through the motor. there are motors 30+ years old in the crate that are literally brand new.
Do you happen to know the firing order for the coil packs?
If you look at the coil wires the orange/blue primary is connected to the No. 1 coil and orange and green is No. 2