I have a 70's Evinrude V4 115hp which uses the same Powerpack 4 ignition module exactly as shown. I had spark at coils 1&3, but not 2&4, so I swapped the corresponding trigger wires and then had spark at 2&4, which eliminated the module as causal. I checked the resistance from the triggers to the terminals with no difference in ohms, so I concluded the flywheel magnet was somehow faulty. I removed the key from the camshaft and reinstalled the flywheel 180 degrees off. Viola, I successfully verified the bad flywheel. After close inspection, I found that there was a crack apparently affecting the magnetic polarity. Replaced and problem solved, no adapter necessary. Thanks for a great video. 😅
well done! yes a crack will throw the polarity off but its very rare. someone had to have dropped it or something or hit on it with a hammer- glad my video helped a bit!
Another lekker video. I found your videos because I am having some sort of no spark problem with a mercury 200 20hp, its an old two stroke. So I’m just trying to figure out how to do all these tests with out cranking as I have to take the flywheel off to check the rotor cables etc.. I’m also no mechanic, but Im learning :P
Thanks for this helpful video! I will be attempting to diagnose my no spark issue on a 105hp Chrysler. Had spark then lost it on all cylinders. No mechanic here but willing to try. I think I messed up the timing trying to adjust it! Going to take your video and diagnose some more!
Hi, you are prob the most helpful on theory of Operation, and testing, and i have watched many on outboards lately. That said I have a question I wonder can you help me understand? On Three Cylinder Two Stroke Engines (With SLOW Function) 1988-1992 60-75 HP Models (70): DVA output on The orange & orange Blk connected = 14v / disconected =190v. The 190v reading being very high! Also the White, to Purple and Blue, ohm and DVA output is good @ 14ohm & 1.2v, connected and disconnected. However the White to Green (B terminal) continuity is open and zero voltage output. I checked at 4 pin connector and upstream as far as i could get to, at flywheel termination. My engine condition is no spark, Stator output is good on all tests. I gather my sensor coil is failed on terminal B (green) signal wire, but I am not understanding why all cylinders are in no spark condition when there is not a short to ground and the rest checks good. Could the power pack also be no good, even though it is not draining stator output, connected or disconnected? Any further tests i can run? I am not sure how to test orange wire outputs on power pack from the point I have arrived.
Update: I knew bottom cylinder should be no spark from no signal on green, but found no spark on any power pack, orange to coil wires, so I need power pack and a timer base. Earlier i had taken the black yellow wire out of the equation and tested still no spark, reconected and checked for open with key on and grounded with key off, but I did not check for voltage on the black/yellow, until now. Yep I have right about 4volts, so the damage is done to pack, and it looks like a new CDI pack 113748. Thank you for mentioning current from key circuit to pack will kill a pack! I will be ordering a timer base, power pack, and a key switch and shrink wrapping switch terminals, and double checking for voltage on Blk/Y before installing pack. I am still bothered why orange to orange black was in spec conected but very high voltage over spec when disconnected. Any insight on that if it persists with new parts installed? I am just hoping I am not missing something. Thanks again.
@@chuckgilbert2035 yes it happens more than ppl know! wonder if grease in the ign switch becomes conductive or a wire rubbing somewhere in the loom. Best is to test the ignition switch TERMINAL with kill wire removed - that way you can isolate a loom issue or switch issue, usually that will nail down the real culprit. If you are 100% sure you are NOT getting it from the switch then replace the entire kill wire from switch to pack.
Good video, I have a 1985 evinrude 150hp I get no spark. I am trying to figure out which is my pack, I have two a skinny one where the stator wires plug and another one with 6 prongs. Please advise.
sorry - i missed the high rpm leg part- it should be making power from idle as the fw is spinning across the magnets and windings- scroll thru the chart here to your motor year/model and see the specs, blue/red have the same readings- www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/CDI-Electronics-DVA-Charts.pdf
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks so much for this education and information!
Thanks I'm old school carburetor styal you make your explanation easy thanks
Really good information, n excellent instructor,
I have a 70's Evinrude V4 115hp which uses the same Powerpack 4 ignition module exactly as shown. I had spark at coils 1&3, but not 2&4, so I swapped the corresponding trigger wires and then had spark at 2&4, which eliminated the module as causal.
I checked the resistance from the triggers to the terminals with no difference in ohms, so I concluded the flywheel magnet was somehow faulty. I removed the key from the camshaft and reinstalled the flywheel 180 degrees off. Viola, I successfully verified the bad flywheel. After close inspection, I found that there was a crack apparently affecting the magnetic polarity. Replaced and problem solved, no adapter necessary.
Thanks for a great video. 😅
well done! yes a crack will throw the polarity off but its very rare. someone had to have dropped it or something or hit on it with a hammer- glad my video helped a bit!
Thanks so much for these two videos!!
I now feel confident that is what my 200 mercury is doing.
It will idle but won't speed up under a load.
Another lekker video. I found your videos because I am having some sort of no spark problem with a mercury 200 20hp, its an old two stroke. So I’m just trying to figure out how to do all these tests with out cranking as I have to take the flywheel off to check the rotor cables etc.. I’m also no mechanic, but Im learning :P
Learned alot had to subscribe to a good teacher
Tremendous job. Great teacher!
Thanks for this helpful video! I will be attempting to diagnose my no spark issue on a 105hp Chrysler. Had spark then lost it on all cylinders. No mechanic here but willing to try. I think I messed up the timing trying to adjust it! Going to take your video and diagnose some more!
Thanks your are a real pro i understand positive
Awesome video thanks
Hi, you are prob the most helpful on theory of Operation, and testing, and i have watched many on outboards lately. That said I have a question I wonder can you help me understand? On Three Cylinder Two Stroke Engines (With SLOW Function)
1988-1992 60-75 HP Models (70): DVA output on The orange & orange Blk connected = 14v / disconected =190v. The 190v reading being very high! Also the White, to Purple and Blue, ohm and DVA output is good @ 14ohm & 1.2v, connected and disconnected. However the White to Green (B terminal) continuity is open and zero voltage output. I checked at 4 pin connector and upstream as far as i could get to, at flywheel termination. My engine condition is no spark, Stator output is good on all tests. I gather my sensor coil is failed on terminal B (green) signal wire, but I am not understanding why all cylinders are in no spark condition when there is not a short to ground and the rest checks good. Could the power pack also be no good, even though it is not draining stator output, connected or disconnected? Any further tests i can run? I am not sure how to test orange wire outputs on power pack from the point I have arrived.
Update: I knew bottom cylinder should be no spark from no signal on green, but found no spark on any power pack, orange to coil wires, so I need power pack and a timer base. Earlier i had taken the black yellow wire out of the equation and tested still no spark, reconected and checked for open with key on and grounded with key off, but I did not check for voltage on the black/yellow, until now. Yep I have right about 4volts, so the damage is done to pack, and it looks like a new CDI pack 113748. Thank you for mentioning current from key circuit to pack will kill a pack! I will be ordering a timer base, power pack, and a key switch and shrink wrapping switch terminals, and double checking for voltage on Blk/Y before installing pack. I am still bothered why orange to orange black was in spec conected but very high voltage over spec when disconnected. Any insight on that if it persists with new parts installed? I am just hoping I am not missing something. Thanks again.
Best video I've found yet, what would cause the kill wire to show current?
thanks - yeah i just kinda wing these videos, old wiring or the ignition switches allow current to cross over- it happens more than you know!
@@SocalMarineUSA Just what I was looking for, tested the black and yellow wire to the pack and had momentary voltage. On two different control heads.
@@chuckgilbert2035 yes it happens more than ppl know! wonder if grease in the ign switch becomes conductive or a wire rubbing somewhere in the loom. Best is to test the ignition switch TERMINAL with kill wire removed - that way you can isolate a loom issue or switch issue, usually that will nail down the real culprit. If you are 100% sure you are NOT getting it from the switch then replace the entire kill wire from switch to pack.
Good video, I have a 1985 evinrude 150hp I get no spark. I am trying to figure out which is my pack, I have two a skinny one where the stator wires plug and another one with 6 prongs. Please advise.
find the cdi troubleshooting page for your model and follow the instructions there..
I am reading mila voltage when key is on 0.00 V with key off. is that ok???
When i come to la area im comming to visit
I have learned so much.. I would like to be your apprentice ..at least to get familiar with my evinrude 65 1975 ..Thanks again
Can the high rpm leg be tested just from cranking the engine or does it have to be running in that rpm range?
sorry - i missed the high rpm leg part- it should be making power from idle as the fw is spinning across the magnets and windings- scroll thru the chart here to your motor year/model and see the specs, blue/red have the same readings- www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/CDI-Electronics-DVA-Charts.pdf
i've had more sensors go bad than powerpacs or stators ,actually quite alot of them
where do you find the CDI book ???????
all their info is online as well - lookup up the cdi troubleshooting pdf. Its everywhere and free for download.
do you know which book your working out of?
Cdi manual available free online book is 20 bucks iirc