Thank you so much for making this video and documenting the process. I'm using POR-15 to paint some steel skid plates and rock sliders on my 4Runner, and I'm finding it a little intimidating. But your video makes it look easy! Well, as easy as rolling around on the ground under your truck can be...
Rust is EVIL. 😡 I admire your willingness to put in the labor to protect your truck for the next decade or so. People like you are the reason there will still be some of these cars and trucks around when your grand kids come of age.
luv to see a follow up 2 years from now, I used POR15 on three different vehicles and it has failed all three times, spoke to the company and they said, yeah, it does that sometimes ! you can't make this stuff up folks
Ugh, hate hearing this. It's such an involved job to do a frame - the thought of it not lasting is a bummer. Out of curiosity did you use their metal etch spray beforehand?
@Good-Enuff-Garage….Ha thats kinda funny. When the directions told you to prepare the metal surface you said , “ah , good enough”. After the paint failed you contacted the company reps. and they said….”if you didn’t prepare the surface, it will fail sometimes”. Also you must follow the instructions for humidity and temperature. Two, 2, tu, too coats MUST be applied. This stuff does not fail. What it does do is this: very expensive, similar products for less are available and work better.
Good job. Just came from watching another UA-cam vid about a dude who POR'd their Hummer straight over flaking rust - nasty! Looks like you did it the right way, hopefully will last 👌
Great video!!! I’ve been repairing my jeep yj over the winter. I’m finally at the point now for paint. I guess I should start early in the morning and just put all the coats in as the directions say.
Very interesting video, I just did a similar process on my 94 GMC Sierra. I used Rustoleums version of POR15. It has good reviews and it’s about 1/3 of the price per quart.
Thanks for the info. If I were to do it again I might consider a lanolin product. I would have to reapply more often but less prep work. It also probably gets a little deeper if you don’t have it all disassembled because you can spray it. I am also using Rustoleum paint for all the little things, like control arms and sway bars. I am interested to compare the two head to head over time. Thank you for watching.
@@mrmelonhead4161 yes I used rust oleum spray for the smaller portions I couldn’t reach with a brush. However it was rust oleum rust reform spray and not just black.
@@cosmic8845 I’m doing a similar process but I’m going with Ace rust stop paint and I’m going to roll it on for a thicker coat and fill in spots with a can.
@@hurtinalbertan3844 12hrs? That is less than a second. Wait till you hit the 500hr point. I started at the beginning of June and worked everyday on truck bed and frame... I'm still working. My dad would like his vehicle back after 4 months. Derusting, needle descaler, phosphoric acid baths, POR-15, tremclad rust paint, sanding again and clearcoat, metal hammer forming panels, body work, welding sheet metal one stitch at a time, grinding, sanding, body filler, sanding, priming, painting, clearcoat. Whole interior out, painting interior panels, derusting, etc.... Sound deadening, insulation... Etc. 5hrs a day everyday. I wish my project could be measured by the hour instead of months.
How’s this holding up? I’m just about done sanding down my steel boat trailer and planning on using a few coats POR-15 and then hitting it with Raptor Liner on top. It gets absolutely hammered by rocks from the gravel roads I drive so I need additional chip resistance hence the bed liner on top.
Inside the chassis rails - there’s a lot of holes along the rails, so I’m curious if somehow a rust converter (or similar) could be sprayed in by small tube or piping? It just seems that a lot of work has gone onto the exterior surface but rusting often starts from the inside
I used a spray rust converter inside the holes on my 2006 4Runner and tried my best, then filled up the inside with Woolwax (covered the entire bottom of the car with woolwax after doing the coatings on the frame for two layers of protection.
What respirator did you use? I found one at Home Depot by 3M and was rated OV/AG P100. There were other ones like OV/P95 but I can't figure out which one to get. Both are NIOSH approved which is what POR15 recommends but need to know the specifics for optimal protection.
Great question. It’s all about the contrast. I can see the gray paint really well against the brown rusty color. And I can see the black paint really well against the gray paint. So I can make sure I get really good coverage on all the layers. If you did black on black it would be very hard to see against each other. Also black doesn’t show up great against the rusty color. Thanks for watching.
You could have used another coat of converter on some of those brown areas. You want it all whitish for full conversion. now fluid film over it and you're good to go
I used this on a truck a few years ago. Unfortunately, it didn’t hold up well. That being said, I didn’t prep it as thoroughly as you did so I’m sure it’ll be fine
Ever considered 2 pack epoxy? It's supposed to be the Gorillas balls for adhesion strength & rust encapsulation. But POR is a good product too shame it didn't work out 4 yu
@@mrmelonhead4161 That Por15 is the best stuff out there, I used it on my 1980 Dodge Ram and on my 1985 Ram back in 1992 and the chassis are still the way they were when I did them. I also did the wheel wells and in behind where they normally rust out, to this date there is still no rust. Definitely worth buying, my next project is my 1979 Ford Lariat. I'm sure that you'll be happy with it. I've also used it on my newer Ram trucks that I have, I have a bit of a Ram collection. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@amadrid5899awesome to hear. That makes me feel a lot better. I have also become somewhat of a ram collector. I have three vehicles and 2 of them are pre 2000s rams. Thanks for the comment and watching
I use por 15 all the time on my cars and I never took them off the frame I cleaned the frame really good and I used the primer and the frame black paint with a brush and you can't even tell it but you did okay with what you did but that is to much work you took your bed off and looks like you took you all your front end apart but when doing a car unless you are doing a frame off restoration you just need a wire brush and the cleaner and pressure washer and then primer and then the frame black gose on and then it's all done on a car but trucks you can do either way as long as you don't get none on you it turns you red
looks nice! what about the inside of the frame? Fluidfilm would have been better. one rock chip and you're right back where you started at. Not trying to be mean but that stuff has a purpose and frames are not a good choice.
This was very helpful thank you for showing your experience doing it
Thank you so much for making this video and documenting the process. I'm using POR-15 to paint some steel skid plates and rock sliders on my 4Runner, and I'm finding it a little intimidating. But your video makes it look easy! Well, as easy as rolling around on the ground under your truck can be...
Rust is EVIL. 😡 I admire your willingness to put in the labor to protect your truck for the next decade or so. People like you are the reason there will still be some of these cars and trucks around when your grand kids come of age.
luv to see a follow up 2 years from now, I used POR15 on three different vehicles and it has failed all three times, spoke to the company and they said, yeah, it does that sometimes ! you can't make this stuff up folks
Ugh, hate hearing this. It's such an involved job to do a frame - the thought of it not lasting is a bummer. Out of curiosity did you use their metal etch spray beforehand?
Did you do all the prep work?
@Good-Enuff-Garage….Ha thats kinda funny. When the directions told you to prepare the metal surface you said , “ah , good enough”. After the paint failed you contacted the company reps. and they said….”if you didn’t prepare the surface, it will fail sometimes”. Also you must follow the instructions for humidity and temperature. Two, 2, tu, too coats MUST be applied. This stuff does not fail. What it does do is this: very expensive, similar products for less are available and work better.
Good job. Just came from watching another UA-cam vid about a dude who POR'd their Hummer straight over flaking rust - nasty! Looks like you did it the right way, hopefully will last 👌
Paint work is 90% prep, too many people think a wire wheel and a rattle can job will save their build. Us up here in the rust belt know better 😂
Literally was like 20 hours of prep. Just sanding, scraping, and scrubbing
Great video!!!
I’ve been repairing my jeep yj over the winter. I’m finally at the point now for paint. I guess I should start early in the morning and just put all the coats in as the directions say.
Thanks for watching. I did the second coat of black the next day because it has a much longer cure time
very cool and helpful. thanks
Thank you for watching
Very interesting video, I just did a similar process on my 94 GMC Sierra. I used Rustoleums version of POR15. It has good reviews and it’s about 1/3 of the price per quart.
Thanks for the info. If I were to do it again I might consider a lanolin product. I would have to reapply more often but less prep work. It also probably gets a little deeper if you don’t have it all disassembled because you can spray it. I am also using Rustoleum paint for all the little things, like control arms and sway bars. I am interested to compare the two head to head over time. Thank you for watching.
@@mrmelonhead4161 yes I used rust oleum spray for the smaller portions I couldn’t reach with a brush. However it was rust oleum rust reform spray and not just black.
@@cosmic8845 I’m doing a similar process but I’m going with Ace rust stop paint and I’m going to roll it on for a thicker coat and fill in spots with a can.
@@emmanuelalva6597 awesome! Definitely take your time, if it’s done right it should last a while
really good video, i'm not looking forward to how big of a job this is gonna be lol
The hardest part is starting, but it is quite the task
@@mrmelonhead4161 that's why i put it off for 3 years lol I started yesterday, 12 hours later and I'm still needle scaling and wire wheeling
@@hurtinalbertan3844
12hrs?
That is less than a second.
Wait till you hit the 500hr point.
I started at the beginning of June and worked everyday on truck bed and frame... I'm still working.
My dad would like his vehicle back after 4 months.
Derusting, needle descaler, phosphoric acid baths, POR-15, tremclad rust paint, sanding again and clearcoat, metal hammer forming panels, body work, welding sheet metal one stitch at a time, grinding, sanding, body filler, sanding, priming, painting, clearcoat.
Whole interior out, painting interior panels, derusting, etc.... Sound deadening, insulation... Etc.
5hrs a day everyday.
I wish my project could be measured by the hour instead of months.
Any update on how it’s holding up? Great job! Turned out great!
Great job! looks good
How’s this holding up? I’m just about done sanding down my steel boat trailer and planning on using a few coats POR-15 and then hitting it with Raptor Liner on top. It gets absolutely hammered by rocks from the gravel roads I drive so I need additional chip resistance hence the bed liner on top.
Inside the chassis rails - there’s a lot of holes along the rails, so I’m curious if somehow a rust converter (or similar) could be sprayed in by small tube or piping? It just seems that a lot of work has gone onto the exterior surface but rusting often starts from the inside
I used a spray rust converter inside the holes on my 2006 4Runner and tried my best, then filled up the inside with Woolwax (covered the entire bottom of the car with woolwax after doing the coatings on the frame for two layers of protection.
They actually make a hose that you can put on top of the spray can to get it deep inside the holes. I plan on using something along those lines
What respirator did you use? I found one at Home Depot by 3M and was rated OV/AG P100. There were other ones like OV/P95 but I can't figure out which one to get. Both are NIOSH approved which is what POR15 recommends but need to know the specifics for optimal protection.
Updates??? how has it held up?? I am getting ready to do my RAM also. THANKS
Do you have e a follow up video? A year later of the frame? Thanks
Good stuff bro , why did you do grey then black ?
Great question. It’s all about the contrast. I can see the gray paint really well against the brown rusty color. And I can see the black paint really well against the gray paint. So I can make sure I get really good coverage on all the layers. If you did black on black it would be very hard to see against each other. Also black doesn’t show up great against the rusty color. Thanks for watching.
@@mrmelonhead4161 Good point.
So the POR15 was gray then you used what paint overtop?
POR 15 Chassis black top coat
You could have used another coat of converter on some of those brown areas. You want it all whitish for full conversion.
now fluid film over it and you're good to go
Got some on my finger tips i was wearing gloves and still somehow it got on there I had to sand my fingers tips down to get it off 😂
I used this on a truck a few years ago. Unfortunately, it didn’t hold up well. That being said, I didn’t prep it as thoroughly as you did so I’m sure it’ll be fine
That’s a bummer. I’m hoping to get a decade out of it, but we’ll see. Thanks for watching
Ever considered 2 pack epoxy? It's supposed to be the Gorillas balls for adhesion strength & rust encapsulation. But POR is a good product too shame it didn't work out 4 yu
@@mrmelonhead4161 That Por15 is the best stuff out there, I used it on my 1980 Dodge Ram and on my 1985 Ram back in 1992 and the chassis are still the way they were when I did them. I also did the wheel wells and in behind where they normally rust out, to this date there is still no rust. Definitely worth buying, my next project is my 1979 Ford Lariat. I'm sure that you'll be happy with it. I've also used it on my newer Ram trucks that I have, I have a bit of a Ram collection. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@amadrid5899awesome to hear. That makes me feel a lot better. I have also become somewhat of a ram collector. I have three vehicles and 2 of them are pre 2000s rams. Thanks for the comment and watching
@@andrewcheatle4691I’ve never tried it but if this doesn’t hold up as well as I’d like it too, I might give that a go. Thanks for watching
Where are you located & Are you avail for hire to do mine!? Ha but seriously Not kidding I love your work and willing to hire out I think.
I appreciate it, but it’s a lot of work and I barely have enough patience to do it once. Thanks for watching
I see rust through hole on inside of frame. Why not hit that with spray?
I plan on it but after I get the whole thing complete
Once it is done correctly like you did, how long (how many years) would you expect before rust would start re-surfacing again?
Not sure. I’m hoping for at least a decade
I use por 15 all the time on my cars and I never took them off the frame I cleaned the frame really good and I used the primer and the frame black paint with a brush and you can't even tell it but you did okay with what you did but that is to much work you took your bed off and looks like you took you all your front end apart but when doing a car unless you are doing a frame off restoration you just need a wire brush and the cleaner and pressure washer and then primer and then the frame black gose on and then it's all done on a car but trucks you can do either way as long as you don't get none on you it turns you red
I use rust converter (corroseal) first ,it’s paintable
looks nice! what about the inside of the frame? Fluidfilm would have been better. one rock chip and you're right back where you started at. Not trying to be mean but that stuff has a purpose and frames are not a good choice.
Propane puts moisture in the air .
Sure does
Put a fan or two under there!
123k likes and only 64 subscribeers?????
To much chemicals and prep needed
Met this guy in college. He’s a fraud the truck isn’t even finished and he broke it some more
Waste of time to watch
Cool
Fiberglass up the holes, never done it myself but might help.