Just in case anyone else is looking the KR6696 factory style press in upper joint is orientated with the index mark to the OUTSIDE, THIS vid is WRONG on the orientation. Apparently Kryptonite can't get that basic info included with their products as far as I can tell. After emailing them they sent me instructions they blame on new employees omitting from the packages.
@@DIYDiesel I just got updated info from Kryptonite and updated my reply, you stated the orientation wrong. The mark needs to be on the outside closest to the wheel. Maybe you wanna Pin this comment so it stays at the top for anyone searching.
@@DIYDiesel Well now I actually have instructions that specify and it came from head of Sales and Marketing...so I'm gonna stick to that since theoretically it comes from an engineer...not a customer service kid :) Theoretically they are designed to flex kinda one sided. LOL I politely railed on the guy so bad this morning he got it added to the installation downloads page TODAY. So NOW you can download it...awesome. Reminded him at the end...if they're installed wrong and fail...you guys are paying out for em...it should be documented clearly. AND he added a link to the KR6696 page as a direct download just like I said...AWESOME
Think I may be using this video soon....it's about that time. You think I can get away with puling the knuckle out with the cv shaft still in it (obviously un bolted from the diff)? Just don't want to mess with the bearings again.
Are you asking if you can take the CV shaft out without taking the knuckle off? I’m a little confused, because we left the cv shafts in on both trucks when we did it.
Yes they are 👍, and it is not necessary unless the previous alignment was done with the bad ball joints. Then it will need to be done again. Due to too much play in the ball joints would have prevented a proper alignment.
When you installed the lower ball joint did you think it was not seated all the way? I have a small gap from the original compared to the Kryptonite one.
No not at all as long as it is pressed to the bottom of the control arm your good. It is a loaded suspension. Also check the grease zert fitting the top of the ball joint will come to the bottom of the dip where that goes.
@@DIYDiesel To me, it looks as if I bottomed out the new joint to the LCA, that lip is touching all the way around and the zerc is aligned in the proper position to that groove. I wish I could show you a picture to better understand what I'm talking about. The Kryptonite joint, to me, is a little shorter than the Moog that I replaced, meaning it sits shallower in the LCA hole, there is about a 1/4" - 3/8" showing.
Just out of curiosity man, if I put the uppers in the way this video illustrated (indentions facing away from the tires) will it be fine? I would hate to force em back out, but if I have to, it is what it is, haha
Yes I spoke with Kryptonite on that it will be. I went off old instructions they sent, and they assured it will be fine and still covered under warranty.
@@DIYDiesel nice i just ordered lowers for my 1500 silverado last night.i saw a few people saying they didnt hold up but im guessing they didnt get them from authorized dealers
You need to take all that off to get to the lower ball joints. Only extra step I did was take the hub off the steering knuckle. You don’t necessarily have to do that.
@@UnhappyDuramax no problem; don’t rush too fast ball joints are pretty serious, and I’d hate for something to fail. Not that it’ll happen when you rush, but likely hood is always present. Stay safe brother 👍
Just in case anyone else is looking the KR6696 factory style press in upper joint is orientated with the index mark to the OUTSIDE, THIS vid is WRONG on the orientation. Apparently Kryptonite can't get that basic info included with their products as far as I can tell. After emailing them they sent me instructions they blame on new employees omitting from the packages.
Ya some of the instructions could be a little more specific
@@DIYDiesel I just got updated info from Kryptonite and updated my reply, you stated the orientation wrong. The mark needs to be on the outside closest to the wheel. Maybe you wanna Pin this comment so it stays at the top for anyone searching.
@@mrmotofy I appreciate that! The information I got back was it really won’t matter lol 😆 I’ll definitely pin this comment 👍
@@DIYDiesel Well now I actually have instructions that specify and it came from head of Sales and Marketing...so I'm gonna stick to that since theoretically it comes from an engineer...not a customer service kid :)
Theoretically they are designed to flex kinda one sided.
LOL I politely railed on the guy so bad this morning he got it added to the installation downloads page TODAY. So NOW you can download it...awesome. Reminded him at the end...if they're installed wrong and fail...you guys are paying out for em...it should be documented clearly.
AND he added a link to the KR6696 page as a direct download just like I said...AWESOME
@@DIYDieselyeah a ball joint is a ball joint, orientation isn’t going to matter at all I wouldn’t stress it
Another great install video brother keep up the hard work 💪🏻
Appreciate it! Will do
Thanks for the video. Wd40, press, hammer, hammer, hammer, press, hammer, heat, press, popped the cherry 👍🏽
Hell ya! Lol gotta love it right 🤣
thanks man, my ball joints are good just the boots are aged out. thanks
It's called the wicking effect. And it's a result of having dirty threads. Wd40 would do the area thing.
Beauty of surface tension making creep. Yes Kroil is absolutely the best made.
Think I may be using this video soon....it's about that time. You think I can get away with puling the knuckle out with the cv shaft still in it (obviously un bolted from the diff)? Just don't want to mess with the bearings again.
Are you asking if you can take the CV shaft out without taking the knuckle off? I’m a little confused, because we left the cv shafts in on both trucks when we did it.
No. Remove cv shaft with knuckle and bearing attached.
@@LBZOverlander oh ya absolutely you can 👍
Sorry if I missed it, but are these OEM control arms that the kryptonite ball joints are going into. And is an alignment required after install?
Yes they are 👍, and it is not necessary unless the previous alignment was done with the bad ball joints. Then it will need to be done again. Due to too much play in the ball joints would have prevented a proper alignment.
When you installed the lower ball joint did you think it was not seated all the way? I have a small gap from the original compared to the Kryptonite one.
No not at all as long as it is pressed to the bottom of the control arm your good. It is a loaded suspension. Also check the grease zert fitting the top of the ball joint will come to the bottom of the dip where that goes.
@@DIYDiesel To me, it looks as if I bottomed out the new joint to the LCA, that lip is touching all the way around and the zerc is aligned in the proper position to that groove.
I wish I could show you a picture to better understand what I'm talking about.
The Kryptonite joint, to me, is a little shorter than the Moog that I replaced, meaning it sits shallower in the LCA hole, there is about a 1/4" - 3/8" showing.
@@sethbrethauer9538 ya unfortunately that’s the downfall to UA-cam is there is no direct messaging.
Hello, how are the Kryptonite ball joints holding up after a year? I'm looking at this brand for my 04 Cummins.
Holding up great! Have them in 2 of 3 trucks right now about to be 3 of 3 soon 👍
@@DIYDiesel thanks for the response.
You know what size cup you used to put bottom ball joint in? I’ve tried and the cup sits on the boot and is tearing it up
To press it in? Or press it out?
@@DIYDiesel to press it in
@@marksanchez9931 the 2” ID x 2 1/2”L
@@DIYDiesel thx man. I just got the right set at advanced. Oreilly set wasn’t going to cut it.
@@marksanchez9931 no problem! Any more questions feel free to ask! Appreciate the support 🤝
Hi do you need to unload the tortion bars first?
No
Did you notice a difference in ride quality?
Absolutely immediately we did
Just out of curiosity man, if I put the uppers in the way this video illustrated (indentions facing away from the tires) will it be fine? I would hate to force em back out, but if I have to, it is what it is, haha
Yes I spoke with Kryptonite on that it will be. I went off old instructions they sent, and they assured it will be fine and still covered under warranty.
@@DIYDiesel beautiful, hey thanks for the reply man, and great job on the video 🤘
how have they held up?
So far great 👍 extremely happy I went with them.
@@DIYDiesel nice i just ordered lowers for my 1500 silverado last night.i saw a few people saying they didnt hold up but im guessing they didnt get them from authorized dealers
@@tragedytm6975 they come with a lifetime warranty so if they do fail your covered for a free replacement 👍
Why pull the bearing hub, extra step not needed. And his caliper is on the wrong side during install. Doesn’t show how he lost his shit over that.
PB blaster is better than the stuff your useing
I haven’t had much luck with PB blaster at all
@@DIYDiesel just useing it wrong 🤣🤣🤣🤣 just pulling your chain I have no clue what's better if I have it has to work
@@JasonY02 😂 that would explain why I can barley see out of my left eye! Had the nozzle facing the wrong way 🤦♂️😆
That was way more than ball joints lol Cant for ball joint help you taking hub off and tie rods what
You need to take all that off to get to the lower ball joints. Only extra step I did was take the hub off the steering knuckle. You don’t necessarily have to do that.
I’m also in a hurry I apologize lol
@@UnhappyDuramax no problem; don’t rush too fast ball joints are pretty serious, and I’d hate for something to fail. Not that it’ll happen when you rush, but likely hood is always present. Stay safe brother 👍