*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line.😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.😎😭*
I’ve got an older delta 14 inch band saw and I needed to cut some aluminum and my angle grinder was taking forever so I tried it on my band saw and sure enough it went right threw and I cut a lot of aluminum on it, then I tried some wood to see if my blade was bad seems to be ok, but I’m going to have a dedicated blade for wood, thanks for the video
Ethan, have you tried cutting metal with the Rikon 10-326dvr? No one on UA-cam seems to have a clip of actually doing so. I'm really torn between a Laguna or Rikon. Laguna seems to be the better overall wood saw, but I make knives and the ability to cut knife blanks out on a saw with greater throat depth than my Harbor Freight portable metal cutting bandsaw is attractive. However, if the fit and finish is superior on the Laguna that might change my thinking. Thanks!
I was in the same spot debating those two until I noticed that pretty much every woodworking forum is full of horror stories about Laguna's awful customer service. I made the decision to go with a Rikon (non DVR) two years ago and it's been great so far.
@@petergamache5368 I ended up going laguna. Extremely happy with it so far. Seems metal shavings in bandsaw tires is just asking for subpar future performance
How's that Laguna still treating you? Which size did you get? Do you ever resaw wide boards? I, like you, wanted to buy a decent machine that can do both but it seems I must have a dedicated media for each unit. I have seriously considered the Laguna for my wood bandsaw. I want a 14" (I don't need big resale capacity, but do need throat capacity) for metal, so I have decided I will have to build a step pulley drive for a harbor freight or used 14" for metal cutting.
@@brianscott3762 Hi Brian ~ What did you end up doing for a metal cutting band saw? I, too, would love to find a vertical band saw that can be used for both wood and metal, but, as soon as the word "metal" appears in any description, the price shoots way past what my wallet can handle. I need to make some square cuts in 1-inch mild steel plate, so, specifically, I'm wondering if a 14-inch Harbor Freight (Central Machinery) band saw is even capable of such a cut? Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have in this regard.
I have a home-built Matthias Wandel designed bandsaw which uses bicycle inner tubes on the wheels. With the blade getting so hot, I might worry about the rubber. Would that be a problem?
No. The teeth just rub against the material and blunts the them. In any machining process the cutter has to cut material off, not cuddle it. I would regear the machine, about 10:1 by Ethan's figures, but metal shavings in the wheel tyres is a problem. Blade wipers seem a good move.
I can't understand why manufacturers do not make either metal cutting table or band saws. All you can get are the chop saws which have lower width capacity and poor clamps or the horizontal band saws. Neither of these would be as good as a proper table or vertical band saw.
You should look into “friction cutting”. This is totally different from regular metal cutting and is able to cut almost any metal including extremely hard alloys that are practically impossible to cut otherwise. To do this you must run about 5000 fpm - even faster if possible . 4000 will work ok for thin stuff. A professional machine would run at 10,000 or more and cut through an I-beam like butter. To use a 14” Delta, 4400 would be a good starting point for material up to 3/16”. The only alterations are arranging new pulleys and cementing the rubber tires onto the wheels (use shellac) to keep them from flying off. Any blade will do - 3/8” x 16 tpi is recommended. Bimetallic will last longer - technically the blade doesn’t get dull since I isn’t cutting in the normal sense of the word, but at these speeds it will eventually break. Using this method, 16 ga metal of any hardness is cut as fast as the hand ca feed it
@@FPChris gotta have the fpm down to like 60-180. Requires a variable speed drive or the owner has to install an extra pulley point with a step pulley to achieve the appropriate blade speed (or it will eat blades).
*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line.😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.😎😭*
That was a great video. Finally someone who is honest and says it as it actually is. Very informative.
Aluminum cuts well with the regular blades for wood. :)
I’ve got an older delta 14 inch band saw and I needed to cut some aluminum and my angle grinder was taking forever so I tried it on my band saw and sure enough it went right threw and I cut a lot of aluminum on it, then I tried some wood to see if my blade was bad seems to be ok, but I’m going to have a dedicated blade for wood, thanks for the video
Apparently this company no longer supplies said steel cutting blade. Do you know of a different blade like this one and the supplier?
You can't rest the lower wheel in a tub of coolant to keep the blade cool?
which metal did you cut? steel? brass? iron? aluminum? osmium?
Just iron in this video 👍
What is a reasonably quality metal cutting band saw hoping to be around 14" without baking the bank??
I want to cut 11mm tube aluminum into 8mm pieces would I need a fancy blade?
Ethan, have you tried cutting metal with the Rikon 10-326dvr? No one on UA-cam seems to have a clip of actually doing so. I'm really torn between a Laguna or Rikon. Laguna seems to be the better overall wood saw, but I make knives and the ability to cut knife blanks out on a saw with greater throat depth than my Harbor Freight portable metal cutting bandsaw is attractive. However, if the fit and finish is superior on the Laguna that might change my thinking. Thanks!
I was in the same spot debating those two until I noticed that pretty much every woodworking forum is full of horror stories about Laguna's awful customer service. I made the decision to go with a Rikon (non DVR) two years ago and it's been great so far.
@@petergamache5368 I ended up going laguna. Extremely happy with it so far. Seems metal shavings in bandsaw tires is just asking for subpar future performance
How's that Laguna still treating you? Which size did you get? Do you ever resaw wide boards? I, like you, wanted to buy a decent machine that can do both but it seems I must have a dedicated media for each unit. I have seriously considered the Laguna for my wood bandsaw. I want a 14" (I don't need big resale capacity, but do need throat capacity) for metal, so I have decided I will have to build a step pulley drive for a harbor freight or used 14" for metal cutting.
@@brianscott3762 Hi Brian ~ What did you end up doing for a metal cutting band saw? I, too, would love to find a vertical band saw that can be used for both wood and metal, but, as soon as the word "metal" appears in any description, the price shoots way past what my wallet can handle. I need to make some square cuts in 1-inch mild steel plate, so, specifically, I'm wondering if a 14-inch Harbor Freight (Central Machinery) band saw is even capable of such a cut? Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have in this regard.
I have a home-built Matthias Wandel designed bandsaw which uses bicycle inner tubes on the wheels. With the blade getting so hot, I might worry about the rubber. Would that be a problem?
Only if it is slipping or binding if you are using them to drive the belt. Go slow.
Thx.
Best blade for cutting 1/8 to 3/16 aluminum?
Can I still get this blade from you? The link isn't working.
Woah!
Like a hot knife through butter. 👍
That's pretty impressive for a wood bandsaw, mate. 👌
Yes sir! It is pretty impressive eh!
Thanks Bill
Can't you just very very slowly move the piece of metal while doing it?
No. The teeth just rub against the material and blunts the them. In any machining process the cutter has to cut material off, not cuddle it. I would regear the machine, about 10:1 by Ethan's figures, but metal shavings in the wheel tyres is a problem. Blade wipers seem a good move.
I can't understand why manufacturers do not make either metal cutting table or band saws. All you can get are the chop saws which have lower width capacity and poor clamps or the horizontal band saws. Neither of these would be as good as a proper table or vertical band saw.
You should look into “friction cutting”.
This is totally different from regular metal cutting and is able to cut almost any metal including extremely hard alloys that are practically impossible to cut otherwise.
To do this you must run about 5000 fpm - even faster if possible . 4000 will work ok for thin stuff. A professional machine would run at 10,000 or more and cut through an I-beam like butter.
To use a 14” Delta, 4400 would be a good starting point for material up to 3/16”. The only alterations are arranging new pulleys and cementing the rubber tires onto the wheels (use shellac) to keep them from flying off. Any blade will do - 3/8” x 16 tpi is recommended. Bimetallic will last longer - technically the blade doesn’t get dull since I isn’t cutting in the normal sense of the word, but at these speeds it will eventually break.
Using this method, 16 ga metal of any hardness is cut as fast as the hand ca feed it
I need a 105” blade please.
i have watched a dozen of your videos but cant figure out your name even though you always say it in the first 10 seconds! can you spell it?
i guess i dont speak canuck!
Haha it must be my thick Canadian accent! My name is Ethan
DOH!! I got that.. its the last name that sounds so garbled
Oh gotcha!
Ethan Moore
@@StockroomSupply believe me, I really appreciate the Canadian accent, for me is the best english.
Crap... should've watched this first before getting the Ryobi saw. Anyone want a brand new Ryobi band saw??
Wrong tool for the job bottom line
What would you use? I am looking for a bandsaw I can cut through 3/16"-¼" tool steel with, making precise curved cuts. Any suggestions?
@@brianscott3762 Likely a plasma cutter. I don’t think they make bandsaw blades for steel.
@@FPChris so, you've never heard of a 14 TPI 16 TPI or 18 TPI bimetal blade with high-speed steel teeth? That's made for cutting steel...
@@brianscott3762 yes. But I believe a wood band saw’s RPM is too fast?
@@FPChris gotta have the fpm down to like 60-180. Requires a variable speed drive or the owner has to install an extra pulley point with a step pulley to achieve the appropriate blade speed (or it will eat blades).