I use my belt-sander out in the field on it's back, but in my shop I have the Porter Cable bench-top and I absolutely LOVE IT........ I shopped around and it was the only one with a decent cast table that didn't flex...
Steve I just wanted to thank you for being a great instructor and educator with wood working. At age 23 I can remember in high school and middle school working on wood shop projects and being stuck with ideas or capabilities and that’s when I found your channel. It’s been about 6-8 years and although I don’t do much woodworking anymore, I have consistently watched your channel out of enjoyment. I really appreciate your $1000 budget for getting into woodworking and as soon as I have a place to do that I would love to pick up the hobby again. I would love to see you do a poll and build projects that subs recommend as a step by step guide, maybe something 2-3/5 on a difficulty and show using the $1000 budget tools with plugs for advanced tools that might work easier/faster.
Having a belt/ disc sander on my work bench has been great.It's one of the most used tools in my shop. You may have convinced me to also buy a 1 inch belt sander as well. Thank you for all the great videos!
Steve, my 2 cents on the disc sander and saving yourself hassle and time down the road...wipe that disc sander plate clean as you can get it...goof off or something similar will help with age-old adhesive but I tend to use a 2" putty knife with a single bevel on the tip of the blade and a heat gun like what you used for the old pad removal -maybe a touch of emory cloth if needed for final smoothing. Once that plate is clean as a whistle, wipoe it with rubbing alcohol then once dried pull out your 3M 77 spray adhesive. Spray a quick and light coating on only the paper backing of the pad and stick it on right away (within a few seconds, but the longer you wait, the stronger the bond becomes) then just rub it entirely with your thumb and a couple fingers from the center outward in a somewhat circular motion then press the outer edges a bit harder. The whole process takes seconds once you've done it a couple times. I have never once had any difficulty removing pads when applied using this method and they don't fall off on their own at all even if you don't use them for weeks or more after putting one on save for circumstances of working outdoors or exposed to high temps with high humidity at the same time. Admittedly I use Diablo stickfast pads but I also coat them with the #77 adhesive since their adhesive seems lacking to me despite it also being a 3M product. I can almost guarantee the process I've described will take less time than it did to read this tldr ;) As always, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and expertise. It's guys like you that are keeping interest in woodcrafts alive in this day and age. Take care.
Great video! I'm actually getting back to making kids furniture. Haven't done it for over 15 years. It's great to be back and catch up on the latest tips and tricks.
A quick tip for removing those adhesive backed discs, take a scrap piece of wood and sand it down aggressively. It heats up the disc and makes them pull off easy without needing a heat gun
Thanks Steve great information, I just built a down draft box to help keep the sawdust more confined, thanks to the skills you taught me I was able to build it. Also glad the Ouija board did not move 😀
Hey, Steve, I have changed the glued disc on my disc sander for velcro discs! All you have to do is buy wide self-adhesive velcro strips and stick'em to the disc, now you can change grits on your sander!
Thanks for a good video. I was researching a 4x36 belt sander and came across your video, I hadn't thought about a 1" strip sander with a 6" disc sander to go with the bigger belt sander. I think you're right, it will be useful to have two disc sanders with different grits ready to go.
I bought a stationary belt sander last year, freaking love it! I mounted it on a piece of plywood with a block underneath to clamp it on a "workmate" style folding table.
I watch so many of your videos, and I enjoy them all so much. I just wanted to take a moment to say I really really appreciate the approach you have. I am very much a beginner with all of this and I do not have a lot of money to invest. Your videos are very approachable and they do not feel out of my league at all. However, you are very very knowledgeable and I do not mind coming to your channel for advice. Thank you so much for this and keep up the great work.
For me, I take my Craftsman belt sander and lay it on its side and put it in between the jaws of my Black & Decker Workmate. The Workmate's flat surface allows me to sand evenly against the side. If I need more surface to lay the project on, I clamp a board onto the face of the workmate and that extension allows me to put larger pieces against the belt sander's belt. I've used my belt sander this way far more than I've ever used it as a handheld sander.
Nice one Steve! I bought the belt+disk sander combo way early on, and now that I've gained more experience, I wish I had gone with the strip+disk sander like you have.
I moved to Europe two years ago and I’ve had to repurchase all of my shop tools. I just purchased a very inexpensive belt sander (30€) and now I’m looking to build a stationary jig for my bench to mount it. Great video, as always, Steve!
It's a bit inconvenient to change adhesive backed sanding disks but the problem with Velcro is that it acts as soft padding under the sanding disk, which will cause sanded edges to be slightly rounded. The sanding disk should be hard and flat.
Steve, you can change from glued to velcro held discs simply by fixing a velcro base disc to your sanding disc. You’ll need to clean the disc first but trust me, the effort is well worth it. Having done this, opens up possibilities you never considered before. One is stepping through a grit range as you work through a job. Start at 60, then 120 and finish at 240. Another use is to get metal {blue} discs to sand metal pieces. The results are stunning. To change discs I use a couple of semi-circular pieces of paper. I pull one half off, slip one piece in the gap and now it won’t re-stick. Rotate the disc 180 degrees to lift the other half. Insert second piece of paper and remove sanding disc. Lay your replacement velcro backed sanding disc on top of the sheets of paper. Slide out one piece, press and stick. Rotate disc 180 degrees. Remove second piece, press to secure and voila, fresh disc ready for action. Takes about 2 minutes to do. You’ll never think the same about your sanding disc
Regarding the disc sander and the adhesive backed paper: You are correct to be skeptical about velcro. It's actually better to use the adhesive backed rather than any Velcro type for one reason which is flex. The velcro system introduces a bit of give to the sandpaper and you can end up sanding curved faces (especially edges) on your parts rather than nice flat and square faces. Adhesive backed ones are perfectly rigid and don't have that problem. I agree it's a pain to get on and off though.
OH MY GAWD! It never EVER occurred to me to clamp my breathtakingly powerful belt sander to my bench...I'mma go do that right now and find something to sand!
Thank you for the content Steve. I just picked up a random orbit sander to complete the tools on your recommended list. I have had a combination disc and belt sander for a while and they are very handy (and really cheap too). 👍😎🇦🇺
I just scored that exact strip sander for $50 from a garage sale. It was new in the box! I just assembled it and the quality seemed surprisingly stout. Love the vids!
Thanks Steve, great video as always! I recently bought a budget belt sander for a one of job but it came with bench clamps and pre machined hole to use it as a bench top sander, which has allowed me to use it on almost every project since, I'll definatly be useing the budget one until it's dead and upgrade there after. As my Dad always used to say, never buy a tool that can only be used one way.
Your videos are very informative and true to your original objective of WWMM! You are the first UA-camr that I encountered and started watching even way before subscribing was the thing to do. In other words I think that I have seen EVERY one of your videos from the beginning! I've learned a great deal and thank you very much!
Depends if your frienemy is the one doing the sanding I guess 😉. I have seen disc sanders with guards that cover the half of the disc you shouldn't use but it seems like an oddly rare feature considering all the other guards tools come with these days.
@@0509kj maybe because a guard there might get in the way of sanding really close to the disc, although I agree that if you are sanding that close to the wrong side of the disc you might be exactly the kind of person who needs a guard while sanding. (note the you in this comment are generic yous, not you in particular :D )
Great compliment to your tool list. I love your approach that allows me to not dip into my retirement and still get stuff done! I’ve been waiting for something like this. Thanks Steve!
I find my flap discs on my angle grinder get used more often with wood than with metal, very very aggressive, but you can do some really interesting stuff with them.
Excellent points on expanding a wood workers sanding tool collection. You might have added that a set of drum sanding attachments for a drill press could be a cheaper option than a spindle sander for those who already have a drill press. I do consider a drill press to be either the #2 or #3 most essential tool in my shop based on how often I need to use it so many beginning wood workers will likely have one.
The 4” belt / disc sander also hinges upright and I prefer that to sand down to a line rather than the disc sander. I find the disc sander awkward to use since the speed of the disc and effectiveness is obviously different the further away from its centre you are. Random orbit sander is a must if for no better reason you just cannot hurt yourself with it, unless you drop it on your foot.
I always dig your videos and your down to Earth style. You're Kind of the Anti-Norm Abram. All about the skills and not the high cost tools (Nothing against Norm, I've watched every piece of video hes done, but we all cant afford a $10K bandsaw)
I know this is mostly a channel focused on power tools, but for sanding you can't overlook having a couple of handheld sanding blocks and critically a levelling beam. You can stick sandpaper to a levelling beam and then get very fine, very level finishes for smaller areas where power tools might be too aggressive.
I just got the Triton belt/spindle sander (it looks like the Ridgid one, but not as expensive). I plan on using it to clean up many more Steve-designed oven rack pullers, among many other things.
A lovely video as per usual. I really like your simple approach to these topics. I already own a detail sander as you call it (in Holland it is called a Multi-sander) but looking to buy myself a random orbit sander. If I ever move to a bigger place, those other sanders will certainly join my collection. Cheers from Holland
It's like you read my mind sir! I've been needing exactly this information before I venture into Lowe's or Harbor Freight to see about sanders. I have a belt sander and you're right, it's aggressive. I don't have the right sorts of clamps to mount it to a work table - and I don't (yet!) have a work table robust enough to support the thing either...but I definitely need something that I can use for small, fiddly pieces. Baked polymer clay for instance... Though I do know I will have to figure out a way to basically have a custom mount. Polymer clay for jewelry requires extremely fine grit, 1000 is about the starting place! But this is SO useful! Thank you!!
Also what about both an Upright Sander and a Surface Sander?? Those are pretty good sanders too because not only do they make the wood nice and smooth (probably smoother than all the other sanders), but the Surface Sander takes off a ton of thickness (which is good if you want your wood a certain thickness), and an Upright Sander also makes the edges of your wood smooth (just like a Disc Sander), but a lot faster than a Disc Sander (heck probably a lot smoother too IDK).
Another fine video Steve. I may pick up one of those detail sanders, that would be a nice addition to my shop. Should also replace my old 4 X 36 belt sander one of these days too. My random orbit sander, got new one last year after my old one gave up the ghost (covered by warranty at my local tool store). And I just love my Ridgid Spindle Sander/ Belt Sander. My handheld belt sander, that turns out to be great at gathering dust, I use it so rarely. And sandpaper...i always have a lot of that. Heck, one of my two dogs is named Sandpaper. Rescue dog we got 5 years ago that was going by the name "Sandy"...so that quickly became "Sandpaper" instead.
I sharpen tools with Spiderco ceramic hone stones. They probably get a tad sharper than you're managing with sandpaper. You know your tools are sharp when they can cut end grain to a polish.
After my cordless drill, my belt sander is my most commonly used tool. I use it when a random orbit sander or a planer would probably be the right tool.
Hey Steve, no mention of the abrasive cleaners? Don’t like them? I extend the working life of my disk and belt sander abrasives by a couple of live cycles with good results... works like a pencil eraser.. cheers and thank for the video..
there are indeed velcro discs that you just glue on there and from there on you can use just simple velcro back sandpaper discs - this is definitely a must upgrade to do since removing the glue really is a pain and messy and you propably dont do it in the end, even if you should
I've hurt myself more with the stationary belt sander than any other tool in my garage. I've grounded right through finger nails in a fraction of a second so many times and had work peices slip out of my hands and go flying. The thing scares the crap out of me. Makes the table saw look friendly.
Great list Steve. Have pushed around a Spindle Sander for quite some time, just don't think I have the space. My Ryobi Disk/Belt Sander is used for everything in my shop from squaring up pen blanks to sanding my game boards smooth. Its quick and easy to change the belts on and can do aggressive to fine. CtL
One note worth keeping in mind those black and decker belt sanders are prone to issues with the trigger. I had to recently clean out the corrosion on the small metal parts in it for a friend's sander and seems it's a common issue other people have had. Knowing though what the problem is, it's pretty quick work to get it running again
I'm learning the english names of the tools from you for about 7 years. I didn't know the real name of the finishing sander. I remember you calling it the Mouse :)
The problem with combination belt and disc sanders is that the modern ones are woefully underpowered unless you buy a very expensive one. I had a Craftsman that I recently junked because it only had enough uumph to do very light work on the belt. It would simply stall out if I applied anything but the lightest pressure. I do have a combination pillar drill and spindle sander from Jet though, which is AWESOME.
I’ve got a wen strip/disk sander purchased to sharpen knives. The first unit the tracking couldn’t be adjusted enough to keep the belt moving straight. After exchanging it the second one tracks a little better but a portion of the belt hangs off the support wheel. The miter gauge and slot on the disk side is utter crap, like a toy. Sad I purchased a bunch of sanding belts at the same time. They were quite expensive and now I’m thinking I should have got the more expensive 2” strip sanders. They don’t seem to make the 1” as solid as your unit (whatever brand it is) that you are demonstrating with.
How do we feel about belt sanders to get an end grain cutting board past the 80/100 grit stage that takes hours and onto the 150/220 grit stage that is nice and quick?
On my 5 inch sander, when I have to change the paper I just sand a chunk of 2x4 to heat up the disk. Then I peel the old disk off and put the new disk on. I can even manage this without removing the little table most times.
One's orbital sander operates by rotating metal at high angular velocity -- just like those gyroscopes one probably played with as a kid. Yes, they are definitely heavy, but the gyroscopic effect makes them terribly unwieldy. If one can afford a compressor that can run non-stop for hours at a time, and doesn't mind the noise hammering away at one's sanity, a pneumatic orbital is fantastic for anything with curves. This is especially relevant if one chooses to try making things too big to manipulate on those machines.
Would love to have those but I get buy with the orbital, belt and palm sanders. I'll keep looking for a deal to get the disc strip sander. Thanks for the tips!
Awesome thoughts. I was really hoping you'd talk a bit about drum sanders that attach to a drill press. Do you see any major advantages of owning an oscillating drum sander instead?
You can make yourself a spindle sander for (almost) free if you have a power drill or a router. Glue a strip of sandpaper around a dowel of whatever circumference you want, and then chuck it up in the drill or router. If the dowel is too large to fit in the chuck, you can drill a hole in the end, stick a bolt in the hole (maybe with some glue) and fit the bolt in your chuck. Then clamp the drill or router in a vise, with the sandpapered dowel sticking up- et voila!- you have a spindle sander! It’s true that the spindle won’t oscillate up and down like the one on a dedicated spindle sander, but you can compensate by moving the work piece up and down as you hold it against the spindle.
Yeah you need a stationary belt Sander. I miss my Handheld Belt Sander but not really that much. I Would replace my Stationary but have not replaced my Hand held. Yet
My porter cable sander has a sander and a 4”x36” belt sander and a 9” disc sander. Which is nice but finding sanding discs/belts that size locally is tough.
You can get a 9 inch disc out of a standard 9x11 sheet of sandpaper pretty easily. You just lay your platen off your sander on the sheet and trace around it with a utility knife.
Turns out the two most used sanders in my shop are the bench top belt sander and the oscillating sander which also has an oscillating belt sander attachment. My next purchase will be a strip sander, but mainly for sharpening knives and tools
I use my belt-sander out in the field on it's back, but in my shop I have the Porter Cable bench-top and I absolutely LOVE IT........ I shopped around and it was the only one with a decent cast table that didn't flex...
Steve I just wanted to thank you for being a great instructor and educator with wood working. At age 23 I can remember in high school and middle school working on wood shop projects and being stuck with ideas or capabilities and that’s when I found your channel. It’s been about 6-8 years and although I don’t do much woodworking anymore, I have consistently watched your channel out of enjoyment. I really appreciate your $1000 budget for getting into woodworking and as soon as I have a place to do that I would love to pick up the hobby again. I would love to see you do a poll and build projects that subs recommend as a step by step guide, maybe something 2-3/5 on a difficulty and show using the $1000 budget tools with plugs for advanced tools that might work easier/faster.
*You are doing so well without the arrogance that most other successful UA-cam woodworkers get, thanks for that and stay grounded :)*
Thanks!
Thank you for this info. My father-in-law is bringing me a table saw and miter saw this weekend. So excited to get to start building. 😁
Having a belt/ disc sander on my work bench has been great.It's one of the most used tools in my shop. You may have convinced me to also buy a 1 inch belt sander as well. Thank you for all the great videos!
Steve, my 2 cents on the disc sander and saving yourself hassle and time down the road...wipe that disc sander plate clean as you can get it...goof off or something similar will help with age-old adhesive but I tend to use a 2" putty knife with a single bevel on the tip of the blade and a heat gun like what you used for the old pad removal -maybe a touch of emory cloth if needed for final smoothing. Once that plate is clean as a whistle, wipoe it with rubbing alcohol then once dried pull out your 3M 77 spray adhesive. Spray a quick and light coating on only the paper backing of the pad and stick it on right away (within a few seconds, but the longer you wait, the stronger the bond becomes) then just rub it entirely with your thumb and a couple fingers from the center outward in a somewhat circular motion then press the outer edges a bit harder.
The whole process takes seconds once you've done it a couple times. I have never once had any difficulty removing pads when applied using this method and they don't fall off on their own at all even if you don't use them for weeks or more after putting one on save for circumstances of working outdoors or exposed to high temps with high humidity at the same time. Admittedly I use Diablo stickfast pads but I also coat them with the #77 adhesive since their adhesive seems lacking to me despite it also being a 3M product.
I can almost guarantee the process I've described will take less time than it did to read this tldr ;) As always, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and expertise. It's guys like you that are keeping interest in woodcrafts alive in this day and age. Take care.
Great video! I'm actually getting back to making kids furniture. Haven't
done it for over 15 years. It's great to be back and catch up on the
latest tips and tricks.
A quick tip for removing those adhesive backed discs, take a scrap piece of wood and sand it down aggressively. It heats up the disc and makes them pull off easy without needing a heat gun
That pic got me again. Dammit.
@@mr.mickles yeah, trying to get rid of eyelash from my phone screen
Thanks Steve great information, I just built a down draft box to help keep the sawdust more confined, thanks to the skills you taught me I was able to build it. Also glad the Ouija board did not move 😀
Hey, Steve, I have changed the glued disc on my disc sander for velcro discs! All you have to do is buy wide self-adhesive velcro strips and stick'em to the disc, now you can change grits on your sander!
Another helpful video for us newbies.
Thanks for a good video. I was researching a 4x36 belt sander and came across your video, I hadn't thought about a 1" strip sander with a 6" disc sander to go with the bigger belt sander. I think you're right, it will be useful to have two disc sanders with different grits ready to go.
hi steve. i just used your shop setup for under 1k, and am now getting the sanders in this video. thanks for the help
The oscillating spindle/belt sander by Ridgid is sweet. Check it out.
I bought a stationary belt sander last year, freaking love it! I mounted it on a piece of plywood with a block underneath to clamp it on a "workmate" style folding table.
We have the same appreciation of sanders, but it took me a long, long time to be able to have some of the tools you showed in this video.
Steve you are one amazing man. So glad for UA-cam to discover a star. Just think of what WW would have lost if you wouldn’t have started your channel.
I watch so many of your videos, and I enjoy them all so much. I just wanted to take a moment to say I really really appreciate the approach you have. I am very much a beginner with all of this and I do not have a lot of money to invest. Your videos are very approachable and they do not feel out of my league at all. However, you are very very knowledgeable and I do not mind coming to your channel for advice. Thank you so much for this and keep up the great work.
For me, I take my Craftsman belt sander and lay it on its side and put it in between the jaws of my Black & Decker Workmate. The Workmate's flat surface allows me to sand evenly against the side. If I need more surface to lay the project on, I clamp a board onto the face of the workmate and that extension allows me to put larger pieces against the belt sander's belt. I've used my belt sander this way far more than I've ever used it as a handheld sander.
Nice one mate I'll give it a go.
I have a stationary belt sander (2 of them actually...) and I use them ALL THE TIME... Very handy to have for anybody who is wondering... !!
Your shop is heaven
Nice one Steve! I bought the belt+disk sander combo way early on, and now that I've gained more experience, I wish I had gone with the strip+disk sander like you have.
I usually like your videos Steve but I found this one to be very abrasive.
Perhaps, but I think it took a lot of grit to pull it off.
These kind of comments really wear me down
I saw what you did there
Bit rough saying that Mat.
Just try to be less course.
I moved to Europe two years ago and I’ve had to repurchase all of my shop tools. I just purchased a very inexpensive belt sander (30€) and now I’m looking to build a stationary jig for my bench to mount it. Great video, as always, Steve!
Good info Steve! Please bring back mere minutes, we all miss it. Thanks Sam
And how!
It's a bit inconvenient to change adhesive backed sanding disks but the problem with Velcro is that it acts as soft padding under the sanding disk, which will cause sanded edges to be slightly rounded. The sanding disk should be hard and flat.
Fantastic video as always.
Random orbit sander is Def my number 1, spindle sander is also very useful.
Steve, you can change from glued to velcro held discs simply by fixing a velcro base disc to your sanding disc. You’ll need to clean the disc first but trust me, the effort is well worth it. Having done this, opens up possibilities you never considered before. One is stepping through a grit range as you work through a job. Start at 60, then 120 and finish at 240. Another use is to get metal {blue} discs to sand metal pieces. The results are stunning.
To change discs I use a couple of semi-circular pieces of paper. I pull one half off, slip one piece in the gap and now it won’t re-stick. Rotate the disc 180 degrees to lift the other half. Insert second piece of paper and remove sanding disc. Lay your replacement velcro backed sanding disc on top of the sheets of paper. Slide out one piece, press and stick. Rotate disc 180 degrees. Remove second piece, press to secure and voila, fresh disc ready for action. Takes about 2 minutes to do. You’ll never think the same about your sanding disc
Regarding the disc sander and the adhesive backed paper: You are correct to be skeptical about velcro. It's actually better to use the adhesive backed rather than any Velcro type for one reason which is flex. The velcro system introduces a bit of give to the sandpaper and you can end up sanding curved faces (especially edges) on your parts rather than nice flat and square faces. Adhesive backed ones are perfectly rigid and don't have that problem.
I agree it's a pain to get on and off though.
That's a good explanation. I hadn't thought about that. Same problem as you might get with random orbit sanders.
@@SteveRamsey yes exactly. Same principle.
fantastic video as always, thanks Steve.
You’re videos have inspired me to take up the hobby. Keep up the good work!
OH MY GAWD! It never EVER occurred to me to clamp my breathtakingly powerful belt sander to my bench...I'mma go do that right now and find something to sand!
I had a similar experience as you...I bought a combined belt / disc sander because I wanted the belt sander, but I actually use the disc sander more!
Makes me miss shop class, I miss using these sanders on projects:(
I’ve had skin torn off by bench sanders in wood shop lol
Thank you for the content Steve. I just picked up a random orbit sander to complete the tools on your recommended list. I have had a combination disc and belt sander for a while and they are very handy (and really cheap too). 👍😎🇦🇺
I just scored that exact strip sander for $50 from a garage sale. It was new in the box! I just assembled it and the quality seemed surprisingly stout. Love the vids!
Thanks Steve, great video as always! I recently bought a budget belt sander for a one of job but it came with bench clamps and pre machined hole to use it as a bench top sander, which has allowed me to use it on almost every project since, I'll definatly be useing the budget one until it's dead and upgrade there after. As my Dad always used to say, never buy a tool that can only be used one way.
Your videos are very informative and true to your original objective of WWMM! You are the first UA-camr that I encountered and started watching even way before subscribing was the thing to do. In other words I think that I have seen EVERY one of your videos from the beginning! I've learned a great deal and thank you very much!
Well thank you! 👍
A disc sander is also good for hitting yourself in the face with your work if you choose the right side of the disc.
Been there, done that... =)))
Wouldn’t that be the wrong side? 😎👍🇦🇺
Depends if your frienemy is the one doing the sanding I guess 😉. I have seen disc sanders with guards that cover the half of the disc you shouldn't use but it seems like an oddly rare feature considering all the other guards tools come with these days.
Lol I have done that many times... and I'm still to dumb to learn from it
@@0509kj maybe because a guard there might get in the way of sanding really close to the disc, although I agree that if you are sanding that close to the wrong side of the disc you might be exactly the kind of person who needs a guard while sanding. (note the you in this comment are generic yous, not you in particular :D )
Don’t be afraid to do longer videos
Great compliment to your tool list. I love your approach that allows me to not dip into my retirement and still get stuff done! I’ve been waiting for something like this. Thanks Steve!
I find my flap discs on my angle grinder get used more often with wood than with metal, very very aggressive, but you can do some really interesting stuff with them.
Excellent points on expanding a wood workers sanding tool collection. You might have added that a set of drum sanding attachments for a drill press could be a cheaper option than a spindle sander for those who already have a drill press. I do consider a drill press to be either the #2 or #3 most essential tool in my shop based on how often I need to use it so many beginning wood workers will likely have one.
Yeah side loading drill presses is fun when the taper falls out. Plus it's good for the spindle bearings anyways.
The 4” belt / disc sander also hinges upright and I prefer that to sand down to a line rather than the disc sander. I find the disc sander awkward to use since the speed of the disc and effectiveness is obviously different the further away from its centre you are. Random orbit sander is a must if for no better reason you just cannot hurt yourself with it, unless you drop it on your foot.
The strip sander is really great for metalworking. (specifically knifemaking)
Spindle sander getting in between the curves, Giggity!
I always dig your videos and your down to Earth style. You're Kind of the Anti-Norm Abram. All about the skills and not the high cost tools (Nothing against Norm, I've watched every piece of video hes done, but we all cant afford a $10K bandsaw)
I know this is mostly a channel focused on power tools, but for sanding you can't overlook having a couple of handheld sanding blocks and critically a levelling beam. You can stick sandpaper to a levelling beam and then get very fine, very level finishes for smaller areas where power tools might be too aggressive.
I just got the Triton belt/spindle sander (it looks like the Ridgid one, but not as expensive). I plan on using it to clean up many more Steve-designed oven rack pullers, among many other things.
A lovely video as per usual. I really like your simple approach to these topics. I already own a detail sander as you call it (in Holland it is called a Multi-sander) but looking to buy myself a random orbit sander. If I ever move to a bigger place, those other sanders will certainly join my collection. Cheers from Holland
It's like you read my mind sir! I've been needing exactly this information before I venture into Lowe's or Harbor Freight to see about sanders. I have a belt sander and you're right, it's aggressive. I don't have the right sorts of clamps to mount it to a work table - and I don't (yet!) have a work table robust enough to support the thing either...but I definitely need something that I can use for small, fiddly pieces. Baked polymer clay for instance... Though I do know I will have to figure out a way to basically have a custom mount. Polymer clay for jewelry requires extremely fine grit, 1000 is about the starting place!
But this is SO useful! Thank you!!
Also what about both an Upright Sander and a Surface Sander?? Those are pretty good sanders too because not only do they make the wood nice and smooth (probably smoother than all the other sanders), but the Surface Sander takes off a ton of thickness (which is good if you want your wood a certain thickness), and an Upright Sander also makes the edges of your wood smooth (just like a Disc Sander), but a lot faster than a Disc Sander (heck probably a lot smoother too IDK).
I have the Rigid Oscillating belt/spindle sander. Love it, I get a lot of use out of it.
Buy the wen spindle / belt sander combo. Absolutely love mine, works great for a hobbyist
Great video for sanding 101
Another fine video Steve.
I may pick up one of those detail sanders, that would be a nice addition to my shop. Should also replace my old 4 X 36 belt sander one of these days too.
My random orbit sander, got new one last year after my old one gave up the ghost (covered by warranty at my local tool store). And I just love my Ridgid Spindle Sander/ Belt Sander.
My handheld belt sander, that turns out to be great at gathering dust, I use it so rarely.
And sandpaper...i always have a lot of that. Heck, one of my two dogs is named Sandpaper. Rescue dog we got 5 years ago that was going by the name "Sandy"...so that quickly became "Sandpaper" instead.
Great work
Moroccan follower
I sharpen a lot of tools on that strip sander as well. Have the exact same one. Excellent video and informative as usual.
I sharpen tools with Spiderco ceramic hone stones. They probably get a tad sharper than you're managing with sandpaper. You know your tools are sharp when they can cut end grain to a polish.
great as always
After my cordless drill, my belt sander is my most commonly used tool. I use it when a random orbit sander or a planer would probably be the right tool.
Excellent again.
Love your videos Princess Meow Meow. Thanks for all the tips!
I definitely want a strip sander now, it would make my life a whole lot easier haha
Hey Steve, no mention of the abrasive cleaners? Don’t like them? I extend the working life of my disk and belt sander abrasives by a couple of live cycles with good results... works like a pencil eraser.. cheers and thank for the video..
there are indeed velcro discs that you just glue on there and from there on you can use just simple velcro back sandpaper discs - this is definitely a must upgrade to do since removing the glue really is a pain and messy and you propably dont do it in the end, even if you should
Good info. I just finished a piece using my belt sander because that's all I had. I could do with better sanding tools.
For your disc sander you could put velcro on the sander plant and the sand paper then just stick them together
THX FOR YOUR VIDEO.
MIAMI FL.
Great review on all of your sanders. This will help people to decide which sander to buy first! Thanks for the explanation
I've hurt myself more with the stationary belt sander than any other tool in my garage. I've grounded right through finger nails in a fraction of a second so many times and had work peices slip out of my hands and go flying. The thing scares the crap out of me. Makes the table saw look friendly.
Great list Steve. Have pushed around a Spindle Sander for quite some time, just don't think I have the space. My Ryobi Disk/Belt Sander is used for everything in my shop from squaring up pen blanks to sanding my game boards smooth. Its quick and easy to change the belts on and can do aggressive to fine.
CtL
One note worth keeping in mind those black and decker belt sanders are prone to issues with the trigger. I had to recently clean out the corrosion on the small metal parts in it for a friend's sander and seems it's a common issue other people have had. Knowing though what the problem is, it's pretty quick work to get it running again
I like this video. I hope to start practicing more on my sanding skills
Thanks for your time and teaching us. Definitely enjoy your channel
Thanks for the great video Steve!
saludos steve , gracias por tus consejos
Thanks for sharing that
I'm learning the english names of the tools from you for about 7 years. I didn't know the real name of the finishing sander. I remember you calling it the Mouse :)
Great videos, to the point and informative. 👍
Sounds like making a right angle mount for the orbital and finish sander is an option. If it's on UA-cam it must be safe!
Thank you.
The problem with combination belt and disc sanders is that the modern ones are woefully underpowered unless you buy a very expensive one. I had a Craftsman that I recently junked because it only had enough uumph to do very light work on the belt. It would simply stall out if I applied anything but the lightest pressure. I do have a combination pillar drill and spindle sander from Jet though, which is AWESOME.
I’ve got a wen strip/disk sander purchased to sharpen knives. The first unit the tracking couldn’t be adjusted enough to keep the belt moving straight. After exchanging it the second one tracks a little better but a portion of the belt hangs off the support wheel. The miter gauge and slot on the disk side is utter crap, like a toy. Sad I purchased a bunch of sanding belts at the same time. They were quite expensive and now I’m thinking I should have got the more expensive 2” strip sanders. They don’t seem to make the 1” as solid as your unit (whatever brand it is) that you are demonstrating with.
How do we feel about belt sanders to get an end grain cutting board past the 80/100 grit stage that takes hours and onto the 150/220 grit stage that is nice and quick?
Do you have a video about how to make that guitar shape spoon?
On my 5 inch sander, when I have to change the paper I just sand a chunk of 2x4 to heat up the disk. Then I peel the old disk off and put the new disk on. I can even manage this without removing the little table most times.
That's a great suggestion! Thanks Dave!
Great video as always. Great educational value in such a short video.
I have a stationary belt sander from Harbor Freight and it works great 👍
It has a disk on it too...
It's effective, durable and cheap with a 25-percent-off coupon. What's not to love? 😀
One's orbital sander operates by rotating metal at high angular velocity -- just like those gyroscopes one probably played with as a kid. Yes, they are definitely heavy, but the gyroscopic effect makes them terribly unwieldy. If one can afford a compressor that can run non-stop for hours at a time, and doesn't mind the noise hammering away at one's sanity, a pneumatic orbital is fantastic for anything with curves. This is especially relevant if one chooses to try making things too big to manipulate on those machines.
Would love to have those but I get buy with the orbital, belt and palm sanders. I'll keep looking for a deal to get the disc strip sander. Thanks for the tips!
Awesome thoughts. I was really hoping you'd talk a bit about drum sanders that attach to a drill press. Do you see any major advantages of owning an oscillating drum sander instead?
I love your videos
You can make yourself a spindle sander for (almost) free if you have a power drill or a router. Glue a strip of sandpaper around a dowel of whatever circumference you want, and then chuck it up in the drill or router. If the dowel is too large to fit in the chuck, you can drill a hole in the end, stick a bolt in the hole (maybe with some glue) and fit the bolt in your chuck. Then clamp the drill or router in a vise, with the sandpapered dowel sticking up- et voila!- you have a spindle sander! It’s true that the spindle won’t oscillate up and down like the one on a dedicated spindle sander, but you can compensate by moving the work piece up and down as you hold it against the spindle.
Great video, Steve! This will be very helpful for newer woodworkers.
Yeah you need a stationary belt Sander. I miss my Handheld Belt Sander but not really that much. I Would replace my Stationary but have not replaced my Hand held. Yet
My porter cable sander has a sander and a 4”x36” belt sander and a 9” disc sander. Which is nice but finding sanding discs/belts that size locally is tough.
You can get a 9 inch disc out of a standard 9x11 sheet of sandpaper pretty easily. You just lay your platen off your sander on the sheet and trace around it with a utility knife.
yes!
Is it useful to get a mouse sander if you already have a random orbital multi tool?
Turns out the two most used sanders in my shop are the bench top belt sander and the oscillating sander which also has an oscillating belt sander attachment. My next purchase will be a strip sander, but mainly for sharpening knives and tools
Nice QUIJA Board