Owen, those copper washers can be reused by annealing them. Heat them to a dull red and let them cool by themselves and they will be soft again and ready for use!
This is excellent information, Anthony, thanks for sharing it. Unfortunately, I discovered this information just after the fun I had in this video. I'll be sure to keep it in mind.
Owen, i owned a 25D for 20 years. Advice: get rid of those lazy jacks - the sail when dropped can be temporarily controlled by one well placed sail tie. I found this very beneficial. A sail tie with velcro sewn into the end makes for a fast almost one handed tie. I have enjoyed your videos.
@@VoyageDreams They were one more thing to tangle up and they interfered somewhat with my fully battened main. The purpose of the LJs is to catch the sail so it doesn't drop to the cockpit sole when coming down. Secondary purpose is to store the sail on the boom in a loose sort of way. Both easily accomplished (for me) with a sail tie or two. Just a thought as you try to simplify your systems. You are wise to remove and rebuild the 1GM which at the moment has been bolted in place for 40 years, it is loud, but reliable. But 40 years is a long time. FW.
Owen, per usual, you deserve high marks for effort. No shame in accepting a tow. Definitely was a good call. Also, kudos for locating the source of the leak.
Forgive me, Montana. I didn't intend to give the impression I hadn't used the roller furling, only that I hadn't yet removed the sail from it's foil or given the furler itself a close inspection.
keep going owen, every little hiccup provides an opportunity to learn. always enjoyable viewing, but do look forward to joining you virtually on a pleasure trip in the sun. NW US always looks so cold...................
Ha ha! And you're in the UK. It's hard for me to watch any cold-weather sailing adventures this time of year. I too am dreaming of warm sunny regions and will get there eventually.
Stay positive. Hard to do I know but as David Cummings wrote, she is an old boat and sadly crap happens. I used to work in a diesel repair shop and your issue could be a small crack by the banjo bolt that could likely be repaired by “cold welding”, a series of interconnected soft metal plugs inserted into threaded holes along the length of the crack. We repaired engines from locomotives to sailboats using this technique. Good luck.
I know you've always done this a little in earlier videos but I really enjoyed the text commentary on your thought process as things unfold: very honest and entertaining as always!
That's an interesting perspective, Davenir. I always thought of those text commentaries as something to be avoided by trying to capture everything in video. I guess I'll have to rethink it. Thanks for you input.
Excitement at every turn. I got towed last year 😡. It was a new boat but got air in the fuel lines. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took a guess and replaced the lift pump, that fixed it.
Been there…. Your boat is only 25 ft … even a 4 hp outboard basic dingy motor stored on a outboard bracket and used for your dingy can push your boat in…. By all means fix the little inboard. But at its age you could face failure eventually.
How can you test hi temp and low oil pressure alarms? If you used the correct crush washer at the banjo fitting, and that did not work, then the banjo body itself probably has a small crack.
Good question! The low pressure alarm blares each time I turn the key on before I start the engine, so I feel confident it works. Beyond this, those sensors are often based on resistance in the circuit (sometimes voltage), so you could spoof an error condition in attempt to test the alarm if needed. I'll be checking for cracks and replacing those external lines in the coming weeks.
I sold the Cascade 27' "Flekk" this past summer that is right by your boat. We had installed an electric engine in her. If you see the owner you should say hi and check it out.
Hey Owen, Haven't heard from you in a while. Wondered if you pulled the 1GM on the CD25D? I have a deck leak that gets under the engine. I seem to remember you had water under your engine. Did you ever figure where it was coming from? Enjoy your videos and look forward to seeing more when the weather breaks!
Hi Jazz Man, it's slow going but the engine is out and work on it has begun. I'll be sure to put up the video(s) once we get things back together. The leak under the engine was coming from the prop shaft packing gland, which is normal. I left it looser than it should be (therefore more water) but I'll change the packing and try to dial it in better when I get back to the boat yard sometime this year.
Owen, those copper washers can be reused by annealing them. Heat them to a dull red and let them cool by themselves and they will be soft again and ready for use!
This is excellent information, Anthony, thanks for sharing it. Unfortunately, I discovered this information just after the fun I had in this video. I'll be sure to keep it in mind.
Owen, i owned a 25D for 20 years. Advice: get rid of those lazy jacks - the sail when dropped can be temporarily controlled by one well placed sail tie. I found this very beneficial. A sail tie with velcro sewn into the end makes for a fast almost one handed tie. I have enjoyed your videos.
Thanks for the advice, Richard. what was it about the lazy jacks you didn’t like?
@@VoyageDreams They were one more thing to tangle up and they interfered somewhat with my fully battened main. The purpose of the LJs is to catch the sail so it doesn't drop to the cockpit sole when coming down. Secondary purpose is to store the sail on the boom in a loose sort of way. Both easily accomplished (for me) with a sail tie or two. Just a thought as you try to simplify your systems. You are wise to remove and rebuild the 1GM which at the moment has been bolted in place for 40 years, it is loud, but reliable. But 40 years is a long time. FW.
Owen, per usual, you deserve high marks for effort. No shame in accepting a tow. Definitely was a good call. Also, kudos for locating the source of the leak.
Thanks a ton, Alfred. I always appreciate your positive input.
Owen, keep the roller furling. It's installed and paid for, learn how to use it and you will be glad it's on the boat.
Forgive me, Montana. I didn't intend to give the impression I hadn't used the roller furling, only that I hadn't yet removed the sail from it's foil or given the furler itself a close inspection.
You did a good job finding that leak. As for the tow, well, it happens. No shame in it. Can't wait to see the engine rebuild!
keep going owen, every little hiccup provides an opportunity to learn. always enjoyable viewing, but do look forward to joining you virtually on a pleasure trip in the sun. NW US always looks so cold...................
Ha ha! And you're in the UK. It's hard for me to watch any cold-weather sailing adventures this time of year. I too am dreaming of warm sunny regions and will get there eventually.
Stay positive. Hard to do I know but as David Cummings wrote, she is an old boat and sadly crap happens. I used to work in a diesel repair shop and your issue could be a small crack by the banjo bolt that could likely be repaired by “cold welding”, a series of interconnected soft metal plugs inserted into threaded holes along the length of the crack. We repaired engines from locomotives to sailboats using this technique. Good luck.
Thanks for the info, Doug. I'll be looking very closely at the problem in the coming weeks.
Glad you made it safely, Thanks for update
You bet! Thanks, Ed.
I know you've always done this a little in earlier videos but I really enjoyed the text commentary on your thought process as things unfold: very honest and entertaining as always!
That's an interesting perspective, Davenir. I always thought of those text commentaries as something to be avoided by trying to capture everything in video. I guess I'll have to rethink it. Thanks for you input.
Excitement at every turn. I got towed last year 😡. It was a new boat but got air in the fuel lines. I couldn't find anything wrong so I took a guess and replaced the lift pump, that fixed it.
Thanks, Brad! I'm glad you got that sorted.
Thanks. Great story telling.
Glad you enjoyed it, M! That's very high praise indeed.
Really enjoy all your videos Owen, keep em coming!! 👍
Glad you like them, Rory. More to come...
Ugh…. Can’t wait to see what the issue is
Carry you an outboard and dinghy.
Been there…. Your boat is only 25 ft … even a 4 hp outboard basic dingy motor stored on a outboard bracket and used for your dingy can push your boat in…. By all means fix the little inboard. But at its age you could face failure eventually.
Thank David! We'll see how the engine looks when I extract her from the boat and have a good look.
How can you test hi temp and low oil pressure alarms? If you used the correct crush washer at the banjo fitting, and that did not work, then the banjo body itself probably has a small crack.
Good question! The low pressure alarm blares each time I turn the key on before I start the engine, so I feel confident it works. Beyond this, those sensors are often based on resistance in the circuit (sometimes voltage), so you could spoof an error condition in attempt to test the alarm if needed. I'll be checking for cracks and replacing those external lines in the coming weeks.
I sold the Cascade 27' "Flekk" this past summer that is right by your boat. We had installed an electric engine in her. If you see the owner you should say hi and check it out.
Thanks, I'll keep an eye out.
Hey Owen, Haven't heard from you in a while. Wondered if you pulled the 1GM on the CD25D? I have a deck leak that gets under the engine. I seem to remember you had water under your engine. Did you ever figure where it was coming from? Enjoy your videos and look forward to seeing more when the weather breaks!
Hi Jazz Man, it's slow going but the engine is out and work on it has begun. I'll be sure to put up the video(s) once we get things back together.
The leak under the engine was coming from the prop shaft packing gland, which is normal. I left it looser than it should be (therefore more water) but I'll change the packing and try to dial it in better when I get back to the boat yard sometime this year.
Crack in the banjo itself?
It's very possible, Marc. I hope to find out exactly where the trouble is after removing the engine.
@@VoyageDreams I have a die penitent kit to look for cracks if you want. I live in Hillsboro.
I have access to some locally, but thank you for the offer.
Yikes...I would get a mechanic on speed dial...
Service like that would certainly be nice to have, Greg.
Hank on sails suck