Good job getting it fixed. However a couple corrections that are very important. The part you are replacing is called a throttle body. The engine control module (ecm) is the part that sits on top of the battery with the three thick cables running to it. It’s important to name the parts correctly. Second, that gasket is reusable so don’t waste your money replacing it.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced my throttle unit and she is purring like a kitten. No codes coming up on my scanner for now either. I usually have a permanent engine light on! Appreciate your assistance.
Hi! Just a quick question, when you installed your new throttle body, what was the re-learn procedure you used? I read you need to re-learn the body after install. Or did you just fire it up? Thank you
nicely filmed & edited. you likely saved at least $300 DIYing it given a dealer's part markup & shop time. probably even more since they'll charge a diagnostic fee too.
How did you clean the throttle. I just want to prolong it a couple weeks. I just bought the exhaust and intake camshaft parts today and it helped but I still need the throttle piece.
Do you think this might be a fix for a 2013 Chevy Equinox having a roughy idle losing power and the stabilitrak light coming on but no check engine light yet?
Very well could be. Those symptoms sounded very similar to what my wife was experiencing. Sometimes, if we waited a while and restarted the car, it would run normally. Finally, it was having problems so frequently that we replace this part.
I am having the same code come on the 3 days, I won't be able to fix it until this coming Sunday or Monday. I am replacing the same thing, I think the code on this video is for a 4 cylinder, the p2135 is the 6 cylinders. But by now I would think you fixed it or got rid of the suv
Wondering why no one replied to this, I have a similar issue, but idles rough when at operating temperature. 2013 Chevy Orlando. Changed intake exhaust vvt sensor, thinking of doing sparks and coils next but interested to know if you ever got yours fixed!!!
Isn't that piece called the throttle body and the actual faulty piece was the tps aka the black plastic sensor piece on the side of the throttle body? I'm new to mechanic work and when I fixed my car that's what that piece was called so I'm just trying to figure out if things are just different names or what
It's a throttle body assembly. The butterfly opens up more as you push on the gas pedal. Old cars it was all lines and linkages. Now the computer can tell the throttle position sensor position aka gas pedal and relay that info to a computer. The computer tells the throttle body system what to do. Open up or close it because you are slowing down. No more lines or linkages. Ecm is a computer. Engine control module is the brain essentially.
Ima change mine but one thing i cant seem to find is that every now and then when i start the truck and put it in gear the letter D starts flashing and it will accelerate veryy slow rpms seem to respond normal but the take off is very sloww 🤔
My chevy equinox 2010 lt. 4 cylinders engine, has the same problem. Rngine power reduced and stabilitrak light and check engine light on. Do you think this might be the same fix?
A frozen/clogged pcv system could cause those symptoms and could lead to a costly rear seal blowout from excess pressure. I bought a GM fc219 oil cap which is supposed to vent pressure out if this does occur hopefully I can avoid the problem. But my mom had the same problem ur having and mechanic said it was the flex pipe causing the stabilitrak light, so I replaced that and spark plugs. I've driven 9k miles no problems besides it burning a lot of oil so I would keep a close eye on that.
So basically this is a fairly easy 45 minute repair with under $100 in parts. A local shop gave me an estimate of $450, I'm so beyond disgusted with car repair prices that I don't even know where to begin.
Unplug battery first. It should autmatically reset. And if it comes back on down the road then theirs another issue. Most likely a bad sensor, and theirs a couple of sensors that can be bad.
Other options to look at if you change the tps and doesn’t solve problem, look at the accelerator position sensor, and the brake pedal sensor. These also cause the reduce power message and service stabilitrak
Just fixed mine! Was simple and easy and way cheaper than a shop would have been....all thanks to you! Thank u so very much
Good job getting it fixed. However a couple corrections that are very important. The part you are replacing is called a throttle body. The engine control module (ecm) is the part that sits on top of the battery with the three thick cables running to it. It’s important to name the parts correctly. Second, that gasket is reusable so don’t waste your money replacing it.
Thanks for the video. I just replaced my throttle unit and she is purring like a kitten. No codes coming up on my scanner for now either. I usually have a permanent engine light on! Appreciate your assistance.
did you have to relearn throttle body
Will the code send up even if the "reduced engine power" isn't illuminated at the moment?
Disconnect the negative battery post before starting. Helps the the CPU re-learn.
Hi! Just a quick question, when you installed your new throttle body, what was the re-learn procedure you used? I read you need to re-learn the body after install. Or did you just fire it up? Thank you
Disconnect negative battery terminal before restart
nicely filmed & edited. you likely saved at least $300 DIYing it given a dealer's part markup & shop time. probably even more since they'll charge a diagnostic fee too.
I was able to complete this with and was excited... however, it didn’t clear the error... any suggestions?.??? I’m desperate....
Sometimes it can take driving a certain amount of miles (50 or so) before the code clears.
How did you clean the throttle. I just want to prolong it a couple weeks. I just bought the exhaust and intake camshaft parts today and it helped but I still need the throttle piece.
Take it off like in video use throttle body cleaner
@christina wow I just replaced the same parts as you and I started to have the rough idle problem. I wonder if I did something wrong
so did it fix the problem?
Amazon is showing a second gasket. How is the second gasket installed? Also do codes always come on when the Throttle body is bad?
Thanks, I have to change 1 of them for someone today lol
Do you think this might be a fix for a 2013 Chevy Equinox having a roughy idle losing power and the stabilitrak light coming on but no check engine light yet?
Very well could be. Those symptoms sounded very similar to what my wife was experiencing. Sometimes, if we waited a while and restarted the car, it would run normally. Finally, it was having problems so frequently that we replace this part.
Thanks. Was the relearn process just like 3 minutes on turn it off and repeat?
I clean the throttlebody And Afterwords it Idled really high do you think I need to replace it
So i had the same problem usually you’d have to do a relearn program procedure. So just look up your car and how to do it.
Do you think it would be the same for p2135 code on 2010 Chevy Equinox?
I am having the same code come on the 3 days, I won't be able to fix it until this coming Sunday or Monday.
I am replacing the same thing, I think the code on this video is for a 4 cylinder, the p2135 is the 6 cylinders.
But by now I would think you fixed it or got rid of the suv
We have fixed the exhaust and intake vvt camshaft sensor and spark plugs and it’s still not working do you think it’ll be the throttlebody
Wondering why no one replied to this, I have a similar issue, but idles rough when at operating temperature. 2013 Chevy Orlando.
Changed intake exhaust vvt sensor, thinking of doing sparks and coils next but interested to know if you ever got yours fixed!!!
Hey what is the name of that pace that you had to disconnect
Good stuff man
Where do I get the part at like you said AutoZone in O'Reilly's and them don't have it so where do I get it
Best bet is online. Especially for older models at least for mine (2010).
Mine is sounding terrible and jerks like crazy when stopped. Like a bucking horse. Changed spark plugs, ignition coils, and cam shaft solenoids
Did you figure it out? Did you change your high pressure fuel pump yet?
Interested to know if you found the resolution.
@@goodshotcanada5737 yes I sold that piece of junk lol
@@justinu4521 lol, i was hoping that wasn't the answer, cuz I just bought mine 😛
@@goodshotcanada5737 return it bro
Isn't that piece called the throttle body and the actual faulty piece was the tps aka the black plastic sensor piece on the side of the throttle body? I'm new to mechanic work and when I fixed my car that's what that piece was called so I'm just trying to figure out if things are just different names or what
It's a throttle body assembly. The butterfly opens up more as you push on the gas pedal. Old cars it was all lines and linkages. Now the computer can tell the throttle position sensor position aka gas pedal and relay that info to a computer. The computer tells the throttle body system what to do. Open up or close it because you are slowing down. No more lines or linkages. Ecm is a computer. Engine control module is the brain essentially.
I'm having the same problem on my 2015 4cly. Diagnostic code says to replace TPS. Nothing about replacing throttle body. 100 bucks difference.
Rough idle you need to fix /replace your vvt solenoid. Intake and exsaust eBay 25 bucks
Have the same problem, will this keep the car from starting
It may, mine started but ran so horribly I immediately turned it off
Alright thank you I'll get the code ran
Did it show reduced engine power?
Ima change mine but one thing i cant seem to find is that every now and then when i start the truck and put it in gear the letter D starts flashing and it will accelerate veryy slow rpms seem to respond normal but the take off is very sloww 🤔
Have any of you had the reduced engine power show, and when you finally stop and turn the car off, it doesn't start again?
Same
Mine did the not long after had to replace the whole engine 😢
Did u have to program it?
I didn't have to, no
@@Altoelder oh because the one i got from a used parts place said i had to program mine idk why mabe because its used?
The part is called a throttle body
Wow maybe you shouldn’t be working on it if you don’t know the name
My chevy equinox 2010 lt. 4 cylinders engine, has the same problem. Rngine power reduced and stabilitrak light and check engine light on. Do you think this might be the same fix?
I would think so
A frozen/clogged pcv system could cause those symptoms and could lead to a costly rear seal blowout from excess pressure. I bought a GM fc219 oil cap which is supposed to vent pressure out if this does occur hopefully I can avoid the problem.
But my mom had the same problem ur having and mechanic said it was the flex pipe causing the stabilitrak light, so I replaced that and spark plugs. I've driven 9k miles no problems besides it burning a lot of oil so I would keep a close eye on that.
Can you just replace the sensor attached on the body?
Maybe. It all came as one replacement piece so I just swapped it all out.
So basically this is a fairly easy 45 minute repair with under $100 in parts. A local shop gave me an estimate of $450, I'm so beyond disgusted with car repair prices that I don't even know where to begin.
For sure. I'd definitely recommend doing this one yourself.
@@Altoelder Just did. Seems to have done the trick!
Same here. I wish I would have come to UA-cam first. I could have saved myself about $250😢
It doesn’t matter how nice the old gasket is, you should always use the new one provided.
I use the old gasket. It is money.
It's called a throttle body
You can also just clean it
Where did you find the part, what was it called again?
It's called a throttle control positioning unit. In the description, there is a link to where you can buy it on Amazon
Don't see the link
Unplug battery first. It should autmatically reset. And if it comes back on down the road then theirs another issue. Most likely a bad sensor, and theirs a couple of sensors that can be bad.
Good advice. We had this issue and reset it with the battery. A few months later it continue to have the same issue.
Other options to look at if you change the tps and doesn’t solve problem, look at the accelerator position sensor, and the brake pedal sensor. These also cause the reduce power message and service stabilitrak
The plug won’t make the clicking noise that it is on and pulls right off
do you still need to unplug the battery
Probably a good idea where this is an electrical component.
Nope