How To Paint a Model Car
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- Опубліковано 31 жов 2018
- Welcome to my "how-to" on how to paint a model car. I will take you through the step by step on how I prepare, prime, paint, and clear coat my model cars. Using the Revell 2006 Corvette C6-R we will go through all the steps and end up with a beautiful shiny car. Thanks for watching!
- Розваги
I’m new to this hobby since I retired from the Army, trying to learn new stuff
Good morning Angelo, A friend of mine is a paint and body man and one day I mentioned to him that I was having trouble picking up debris. He told me that before he started painting, the first thing he did was completely wet down his paint booth. So I got a little plastic spray bottle from Hobby Lobby. Now before I prime, basecoat, or clearcoat, I completely spray my paint booth down with water. And guess what, it works.I have a lot less trouble with debris. the water draws the debris away from the car. Not 100% but it does help a lot. you probably already knew this, but I thought that I would share this little secret with everyone. Mac
Michael McNeive actually I’ve never wet down my booth but it sounds like a great idea. I’m gonna try it. Thanks!
i remember when i did plastic models.. it was awesome.. jets and cars... paint was horrible.. glue everywhere... it was the best of times..
nothing can stop you to go back\
I had no idea how little I know! Excellent tutorial! Fantastic results. Thank you.
There are a lot of paint tutorials and every one of them is of value. We can all learn a bit from each other. Thank you for teaching us about the 2k clear.
Wow, fantastic !
Stumbled across your videos and you just re-sparked my Love for building models. Did it a lot as a teen. Think i will get back into it starting this week.
Great tutorial Angelo thanks for sharing nice shine on the Vette
Beautiful job done. Good video
Thx Angelo, I just tried the Dupli-color red. Excellent, I am sooo pleased. No hint of crazing at all. I hope that their other colors work as well as the red. I hope that when you find other types of paint, fingernail paint or whatever, that you will continue to share what you have found with us. You've defiantly made my day. Thx so much, Mac
Michael McNeive glad to hear it! I can’t imagine why the other stuff was reacting. By most accounts that’s a pretty good paint. The nail polishes and most of the paints I use are lacquers. I’ve always had good luck with them. Thanks again.
Looks amazing color, shine like a diamond, man.
Nice paint job
Great video!! I really enjoyed watching it 😀
Great video.. . ! Good job ! Thanks
Coming from painting Miniatures this a whole different ball game. Wanted to paint a Plymouth scamp up for my father but this is pretty legit.
Can wait to get into this new hobby 😁
Good video......very informative. For basic colors like black, white, red, green, yellow you can also use Rust-Oleum Enamel. You can get it in pints. Thin it enough with acetone to flow through a .5 nozzle. I always use 20psi for everything. It works absolutely
fantastic..
Good job thank you for the video!
Thanks for the video.
Looks awesome Angelo. Ron
Nice tutorial. Lots of tips here.
Great video!
Very good video angelo even people who have painted or know some ways of painting their models great to see and learn take in what tactics others use to make a model look great 👍👍keith
Thanks for Sharing n God Bless All
I’m just trying to make a quick trip to the store to get paint supplies.. seeing what I need and what not.. dude pulls out a gas mask.. I’m in to deep
Same. I got back into the hobby last year and I now have a fully stocked workbench with about $500 in equipment and supplies just to paint model cars.
That’s because inhaling paint fumes are not good, obviously lol... butttttt I don’t use a gas mask and I’m perfectly fine 🤪🤪
@@jeremybarnes1308 are you sure you’re perfectly fine because those emojis are retarded
@@Eeeemomo I mean that was the point? Duh...
Simple green works just as good as Dawn.. And if you want a dust free surface use a tack cloth
Great Vids Bro
Very nice tutorial
Nice tutorial. I just finished my model. I’m use to ships and planes cars are a different ball game. I just subed
It’s like painting an actual car. In fact he does a better job than some auto body shops.
I like the idea on using white primer I seen some that always use black primer could never understand why for the exact reason you stated it darkens the final coat.
I tried Duplicolor primer, the pre-thinned one in the can, but it kept cobwebbing even after I thinned it even more with lacquer thinner and lowered the air pressure to about 15psi. I know I was doing something wrong but I haven’t figured out what. Maybe the weather was too warm and dry (Southern California). I’ll give it a try again and see. Thanks for the detailed tutorial.
I’d like to add that I have now decided not to use the 2k clear. I believe that with the additional health risks of the material and the fact that the clear can be quite thick, I am better off with a standard 1k clear. With wet sanding and polishing I can achieve excellent results with the 1k. Thank you. Edit May 2020 - I’ve made a move now into the createx paint materials and am loving them without any stink. Thank you.
Angelo's Workbench Ive made the same decision. Results are not any better than GX 100 super clear III if you do a light wet sand and polish. Health risks are pretty insane for 2k. Nasty stuff.
I painted some bodies today with Testors paint.
Looking to clear coat them with no sanding. Just looking for them to be remotely smooth after the clear coat.
Any suggestions???
IDC if its mr hobby or floor clear coat lol
@@swartz104 I feel the same way. I'm going to spray a standard clear gloss and that's it. Not getting too technical about the finishes.
Great work Angelo.
The narrating came through quite well even with the mask on. Even if the voice over while doing the white primer was perhaps even better.
Incredible results with the surface of that car. Very inspiring for taking up model car building and painting again. Thanks.
Love your videos. Question for you. Do you decal then clear, or vise versa? I use duplicilor clear in the quart like you have done.
hey, I remember plastikote primer, I thought they stop making it a few years ago. gonna look for it now
I’m getting into modeling and I’ve gotten a little more serious and I was wondering what airbrush would you recommend? I mainly use tamiya rattle bottles and tamyia acrylic brush paint.
Thx for the quick reply, I did remove the paint and I found nothing wrong with the body. That Krud Kutter Graffiti Remover Gel really works fast. If you ever try it, be sure to get the Graffiti Remover Gel. Not the liquid, It sticks to the body better and it starts working in as little as 10 min. It's earth-friendly, biodegradable, and will not harm the body. Just a little feedback for everyone out there. I've already wet sanded and re-primed it. The only thing that I can think might have happened is, bad paint or I might have mistakenly been in a hurry and mixed Activator with the paint. I don't know what happened, I only know that it's never happened to me before. When using Gravity paints you do use Activator in the 2K primer and the 2k clear coat. I'll let you know in a few days how it comes out. Thx, Mac
Michael McNeive glad to hear the plastic wasn’t crazed. That can be very difficult to repair. Good luck on the respray and let me know.
You make this look easy man It’s not easy though 😂
Did you wet sand the body red to get rid of debris and orange peel til it became silky smooth before applying K2 clear? Also does the K2 clear damage the decal if doing the wet coat? My current practice is do the wet sanding with 3200 grit and polish with Novus 2 for shiny on the final layer of body color. It works but it shows fine scratches all over.
I've been told to do many light coats of base color...did you do one heavy coat?
Thanks for posting this video. Very informative. How have you attached the side view mirrors to the sticks? Is the body stand hand made?
Hello and thanks for watching! The mirrors are pinned by drilling a small hole with a micro drill on the car and into the mirror and inserting a small piece of wire with a very small amount of crazy glue. The paint stand is made by Tamiya and is available online and in hobby shops. Keep having fun and thanks.
Thanks for the helpful video. Any tips on how to keep from getting fingerprints on model when putting all together?
That’s really a good question that everyone struggle with. I have white cotton gloves I wear during the final assembly and that seems to help. Thanks for the question and even if you make some fingerprints have fun!!!
Great work as always. May I ask how & when you spray the undersides of the hood and body? I assume you have to at some point, and when you do, how do you ensure no dry overspray lands on the top sides of the body & hood, ruining your paint job?
MrLarryQ hello Larry, Very good question! I do spray the undersides. Usually body color, or semi gloss black, or interior color for the bodies. I spray them using acrylics. If there is a little overspray (there usually is) it comes off when I polish and wax. If I’m using a color that’s not acrylic I tape the windows up or tape up the hood depending on which I’m painting.
Angelo how do the clears affect decals? Or should the decals go on top of the clear coat?
Just curious as to why you did not wet sand the paint...is it required?
Thanks
Angelo, I'm still having problems with this Gravity paint. I just stripped the car again, but this time I'm not going to use the same paint because it looks like the paint is crazing again. Doesn't seem to matter how light I apply the paint and primer, it does the same thing every time. I really feel like it is a paint problem so I have purchased all the products you have used in this video. I'm going to try it your way. I watched the video through and I didn't see where you talked about how you thin the paint or what you use, ratios, etc. Anything you can tell me about thinning, I would appreciate. Everything else is pretty clear. Thanks, Mac
Michael McNeive hey Mac. The primer was out of the can. The red paint is thinned 60%paint, 40%thinner. The 2k clear is 4 parts clear to 1 part activator. Good luck!
For painting older cars with chrome trim, would you apply Bare Metal Foil before clearcoating? Also, rather than using those dangerous two part clear coats, why not use something like Future Floor Polish? That's what I do. And for degreasing bare plastic, I've always used silicone polish remover.
Good morning Angelo
I took your advice and bought the Tamiya 123 nippers. I have another question for you. I’m purchasing more and more Tamiya acrylic paints. My question is what do you recommend for thinning them for airbrushing? I know there is a Tamiya acrylic thinner A20. Is that the best or is there an alternative? Example I use windshield washer fluid to thin my acrylic hobby paints. My paint station doesn’t have an external exhaust so I use mostly water based acrylics.
I greatly respect your opinion. Thanks for your help
Jim
Angelo what airbrush are you using in this video. The duplicolor red, do you have to thin it and if so to what ratio? What psi are you using for the duplicolor red?
Do you sand the body straight out of the box and then with each coat of paint? Which grit of paper do you suggest? All steps wet sand? I’m probably gonna start with rattle cans at first then invest up to a air sprayer.
Very good how to Angelo, thanks for sharing. Have you tried the clear from the Duplicolor Paintshop line? Cheers
True North Models thanks! Yes I have used that clear. That’s the 1k clear I have used for years.
Jody well done now tell what kind of equipment you use and what you clean your equipment after clear coating I have done custom paint on 1 to 1 scale street rods for 30 years and I have been building models since 1957 all kinds not just cars Keep building buddy
What is the few top car model Company's out there when it comes to good fitting parts & Detail ? Also can water slide decals be clear coated over to make them more permanent & seamless to the touch ?
What grit sandpaper do you use to wet sand the primer coats?
Thanks for a great video. John Miller at Model Paint Solutions turned me on to Kimwipes KIMTECH task wipers. These are used by professionals to remove dust and static from microscope lenses. A quick wipe over your model and no more static.
Very nice outcome, I love the red paint. Can I ask, what size needle did you use? I am trying to get a wide spray pattern, not a lines pattern. I have the Master G233, came with the 3 needles, (0.3 was on), I have recently changed it with tip for the 0.5, but I have Not yet tried it. I am looking for spraying help.
Thank you very much. I use a 0.5 most of the time. Stick around I have an airbrush tutorial coming in the next few months! Thanks so much for watching and your question.
In terms of ease of assembly, less likely to mess up the paint with glue, would it be better to have attached the side view mirrors to the body before priming?
Hi,
I am new to airbrush and I wanted to ask do I have to buy exprnsive airbrush in order to achieve good/smooth result like what you have on this beautiful red corvette? I just bought a $60 China made airbrush with a small compressor on amazon. Many thanks!
i have a countach diecast from the early 90s its yellow but i want it white with red interior im scared to take it apart . can i paint the plastic seats and dashboard? will it stick?
Just a heads up those filters on your mask are good for about 40 hours. So anytime its exposed to open air its working. Gotta keep it bagged up.
Nah Kermit
Just ordered the 2016 Revell corvette kit. Been watching that build you did over and over. Amazing. I plan on using duplicolor clear (just bought the quart). My question is if you have ever used Duplicolor primer in the quart or is the spray cans the way to go? Love your videos. Keep them coming.
David Territo hi David and thanks so much. I have tried duplicolor primer. DONT USE IT on plastic! It’s a little too “hot” for the plastic. I tried it and it crazed the plastic (gave it a texture) I barely saved the body. I use the plastikote because it’s a nice smooth primer and also because it acts as a protective layer between the plastic and the “hotter” paints I use. It’s easy for us to forget while we use all sort of paints on these kits that we are painting polystyrene and not metal! Good luck on the Vette it’s a great kit.
Spray cans it is. Already have the grey. Buying the white next. Going to try LA colors Color Craze blue wired nail polish thinned with rustoleum auto lacquer (never used lacquers or nail polish before). Wish me luck.
David Territo Good Luck and above all have fun! I did some mixing of nail polish in my Foose Truck build currently running on my channel. Video #2 that I posted about a week ago has it.
A little late in the game here, but if I may ask what the holder you use for the main car body is called or if you made it yourself? I am looking fo something like that, but no luck so far. Thanks
Hi, would you recommend using a matte spray paint or glossy if using only the spray paint cans due to no airbrush? Would the result be similar after using the clear coat?
ThinkCleverAndSmart if you lay the coats down smooth the results should be similar though lots more polishing I’m sure.
Hi Angelo, Well I received the primer that I ordered from Amazon. I don't think it's the same stuff you use, although it says Platikote by Valspar sandable primer. However, it goes on very rough. It comes in a straight 32 oz. can, nothing light the cans I see on your bench. Strange though it has that same red line under the word Kote. The only numbers I see or on the back side. It says, T-235 Gray. It also goes on very rough. not at all like Tamiya spray or Gravity. With Gravity, you can hardly tell that you put it on especially if you are using their White. I like the smooth finish, less sanding, and a smoother paint job.
Michael McNeive hey Mac. The T-235 is the right stuff. I can’t think why it’s not coming out smooth unless you got a bad can with a bad nozzle. Perhaps try to decant some and shoot it through the airbrush. I am testing a new primer that is nice so far called stynylrez by Badger. That’s not a typo. It’s really the name. It shoots through the airbrush with no thinning and is an acrylic polyurethane.
I was wondering about that, because the only difference that I could see, was the top of your cans had that fancy looking top. I didn't know what to think. So you're telling me that normally it should have a smooth finish, like Tamiya spray? The Gravity is great but expensive. Thx again, Mac
Michael McNeive yes. Normally that stuff is very smooooooooth. Lol.
Have you applied this clear coat over water slide decals before ??
What type of paints do you use for your airbrush???
Great tips. I like the gray then white primers tip.
I was reading about that clear and it seems there are yellowing problems. Any reason you changed from the dulicolor clear?
Dave D Hi Dave. I wasn’t aware of the yellowing issues. Hopefully it’s something brought on by UV exposure which won’t happen with mode cars which live inside. I switched because I wanted to use a 2k clear which requires much less wet sanding and polishing to achieve a great shine. 1k lacquers shrink substantially as they cure and need wet sanding and polishing.
Angelo's Workbench I hope the yellowing issue is what you said. Be safe with 2k spraying inside. That stuff is dangerous.
What kind of gun do you use? Do you think the paint for the gun?
How thick is that clear coat, would a .5 needle be ok
Thx, Angelo, One last question. Does Dupli-color make a thinner for the paint or do you use something else?
Michael McNeive yes I use the duplicolor lacquer thinner.
Good morning Angelo,
I had a question for you. I sprayed a body using a metallic rattle can. I normally use Pledge floor shine as my clear coat because I usually spray acrylics. Will Pledge be ok as the clear coat or should I use a clear coat from a rattle can since the paint is from a can?
Thanks for the help.
Jim
Jim Kaminski hi Jim. I’ve been able to use pledge pretty much over everything. Just be sure to allow enough time for the paint to gas out before you apply the pledge and you should be fine.
What kind of gun are you using? Did you order your paints online that are ready to shoot without the need of thinning? I am new to using an airbrush, still unused in the box as I am afraid to screw everything up. I have watched several videos and I appreciate your taking the time for this one.
Brad Coakley don’t be afraid of it!!! Get that airbrush out and start spraying. I use an Iwata HP-CS with a .5mm tip. I use some paints that are pre-thinned and some I thin myself. Always thin to the consistency of milk. If the paint is runny coming out then it’s too thin and if the airbrush “spits” the paint out then it’s too thick. You can tell just by listening to the spray. Make sure you use the right thinner for your paint. Also always clean the airbrush completely when done and learn early how to disassemble and clean it. You take care of the airbrush and it’ll take care of you. Now go spray something and have fun!
As usual excellent work! Just out of curiosity, any luck with acrylics? Like AK Inneractive or Vallejo? Keep up the good work!!
Terry Peterson I have experimented with those brands but find the Tamiya acrylics work better for me.
Angelo's Workbench Yes ! Agreed ! I really like the Tamiya paints excellent performance for sure! Looking forward to seeing what’s next on the Foose pick up!
Does the booth suck all the dust in the room across the car and out the back?
I have 250$ and a revell model car I don’t know how to do anything but would like a nice setup for making these models what is everything I need
Miguel Jimenez1 second agoLike to know where the best place to / or you put the model car after its done with clear coat to dry/ cure and how long, so dust wont get on it so you can wet sand.
Hello, can you please tell me if this spray booth prevents the model rom dust particels that flying in the air?
gabrielwhite it does a pretty good job but you definitely need to wear a respirator too. It also doesn’t stop the stink.
@@AngelosWorkbench ok i see! I ment the debris/dust, that is flying in the air.
gabrielwhite it does nothing to prevent debris. If you have a lot of dust you may consider placing a container large enough over the top.
@@AngelosWorkbench yes maybe thats the way to go......thanks
Oh, I was so concerned with my own problems that I forgot to thank you for all of the helpful videos and advice that you've cheerfully given us beginners. I know that many of my questions can be very trying for you sometimes. I have another one right now. What type of dehydrator do you recommend? Thx for your help. Mac
Michael McNeive it’s really no problem. I thoroughly enjoy not only making the videos but also sharing answers to questions. I think mine is a Nesco. Any brand will do. Keep it on low temp - don’t melt any plastic!
Where did you get the stand for the main body? And also can you guide me through the steps of building a paint booth like yours. And how much out of pocket will it cost me to build it. And I enjoyed your tutorial
Mike Wilkerson the spray stand is made my Tamiya and the spray booth is made by Paasche.
Hobby Lobby carries the paint stand in a two piece kit for less than $20 bucks.. use the 40% coupon on line and it will save you even more. A simple paint booth can be assembled from a cardboard box or large plastic container... it's up to what you want to invest in it. I have used several types and I'm inclined to use a larger booth just so you have more room to work. I have two paint booths now. One is a commercially available unit that's ideal for acrylic painting of smaller things and the average model car body, yet it can be snug for some of the larger vehicles.
check out eBay item #292773745937 for an example of this paint booth. These are self-contained set ups with venting kit. My second booth is a home made unit from 2'x2'x2' metal HVAC duct work. I cut a slot for an air filter, added a vent fan and LED lighting in the top for painting larger items. This works great for most any model kit of any scale as well as being able to paint other projects in my shop I may be restoring.
I have a question that's been bugging me. Is there a White paint for models that will not yellow after a month or two???
Hello. Where to find this plastic folder when you paint? And what is it? Thank you
What kinda grit sandpaper you use!?
Nice. Did you build your painting booth? Also, I was told that Oxyde red primer was the best when painting with red. Is this true? Finally, what would happen if you didn't mix the two parts of the clear and instead shoot them one after another in a short time, like, less than a minute between them?
ChasseGallerie hello you’ve got some interesting questions. First my spray booth is a Paasche HSSB-22-16. As for primers I like the white under the red as it brightens it. I’ve never used a red primer but I did use a pink primer on a red Ferrari once as I heard that’s what Ferrari used and it came out really nice. As for the clear I’m not sure what would happen if you sprayed the activator on. I’m always one for following the directions but if you try it let me know.
Last question from a 30 year Armour guy. I primed body was perfect after a little wet sanding. Gave it 2 coats of color. Just a little texture on trunk. Should I wet sand the color lightly or clear it with the 2k then wet sand ?
Eugene Dengler hello! I would definitely wet sand lightly. Any texture at all is going to carry forward to the next layer. Good luck!
Thanks
Hey I got a question I'm working on a Chrysler turbine car my found testors burnt orange Pearl or something like that can I polish the paint job and then clear coat after or is the Polish like Wax ?
Harry Hathaway hi Harry. I’m not sure if the testors is polishable or if you need the clear. When I’m unsure about something like that I spray a plastic spoon and experiment. Once the spoon looks good you know what to do on the body. I hope this helps. Thanks!
Good Video! Do you put your spay paint in warm for a little while?
Kathleen Orce sometimes I set them in warm water sometimes I don’t. Depends on the paint.
What washing up liquid should I use in the uk? Does anyone know? Thanks
Hey Angelo, You've been talking about spraying your semi-gloss over your clear coat for obvious reasons. I just wanted to find out what your feelings are concerning this new paint made by Gravity. I haven't used it yet. It is called High Gloss Black GC-227A. Matte, the owner of the company says that it is a Urethane, and that's why you must use an Activator, which comes with it in a pre-measured bottle. He says without the activator the paint will not dry. he says the whole idea is that you won't have to use clear coat on top of it. After I painted the black parts on the 2016 Stingray, I did not bother clear coating over the black because I didn't know what it might do to the red which was already clear coated. I was wondering if this might be a better look than the semi-gloss. Thx, Mac
Michael McNeive Hey Mac, I think it depends on what you’re trying to replicate. Most automotive trims are not glossy which is why I don’t clear them. I use the acrylic semi gloss black which gives a very realistic finish compared to the real deal. Also being acrylic I can buff off any painting errors very easily. Having the black trim on the car be glossy I think wouldn’t look right. But that’s just me. Also using a urethane for trims means that if any mistakes are made buffing it off would not be that easy.
Thx Angelo, I was thinking the same as you. I have a bottle of this Gloss black, now I'm wondering what I will use it on.@@AngelosWorkbench
Michael McNeive time to build a Knight Rider car!!!
Did you think the paint or pour it straight in?
You should mention how to clean your gun after the 2k clear..
With what grid do you wet sand it?
Hi Angelo, Well I'm still having problems with crazing. This is the fifth car I've tried to paint red using Gravity. I know that when I first started using it, I thought it was the best, but now I'm not so sure. I want to try the Dupli-color red that your using, but I don't know anything about it. Do you have to mix it with anything, or thin it? If so what do you use? Do you ever have problems with crazing? Well anyway, I'm going to try to find the same paints your using and try it your way. Any suggestion you can give me, especially when it comes to mixing paints and clear coats, I would appreciate it! Thanks!
Mac
Michael McNeive hey Mac, I don’t have any issues with crazing. The primer should insulate the plastic from the hotter lacquers unless you’re having a reaction with your primer. I’m using the plastikote as you know with great success. The duplicolor quart red paint I mix with lacquer thinner to a consistency that will spray through the airbrush. Those paint are pre-thinned for paint guns not airbrushes hence the needed mixing. If you follow this video you should be fine based on it working for me. Are you sure it is crazing you are seeing and not some weird paint problem? The answer would lie in removing the paint and examining the plastic. If after removal the plastic is fine you’re having a paint reaction. Let me know and good luck.
Angelo I love your tutorial videos!
Have you ever thought of doing a tutorial on acrylic paints?
Jim Kaminski thanks for the idea. What are you thinking - thinning and airbrushing? Brush painting? Different brands? What’s your questions?
I was thinking acrylics paint in an airbrush. Some of us have limited ventilation where we are painting. I’ve watched some others on UA-cam use acrylics but I respect your opinion and would love to see what you had to say compared to others. The also use pledge as their clear coat which is also fume friendly.
Jim Kaminski while I do use quite a few acrylic paints I often coat them with lacquer. I have used the pledge as a clear coat before but you don’t get as good a shine nor can you polish it. However I’m interested in the challenge - “how to paint a model car without stinking up the place”. I’m going to do some research and perhaps a tutorial - I can’t promise when but sometime soon. :-) thanks.
One video I watched they used Pledge as the clear coat, then polished it with Novis 3 then 2, then used a car wax to polish. It turned out real well, at least on the video.
BTW.... thanks for taking time out of your busy schedule to answer these and help all of us rookies. 🙂
Hi Angelo, I know that I told you that the last question would be the last question. Oh well. I just received my Dupli-color red and I'm getting ready to mix it with the thinner 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner. I think that's the same as 60% to 40%. Anyway, I was reading the instructions and they say to strain the paint first. Do you do that or can I just mix it up without straining it? I also just received my Speedokote and I'm reading all of these instructions and I'm almost afraid to open the cans. You can be sure that I will have on all of my safety equipment. Thx again, Mac
Michael McNeive hey Mac. I have never strained the paint. I probably should but one nice thing about the smaller airbrush needle is that junk doesn’t run through it very easily. Good luck!
2 questions:
1) what grit do you wet sand with, and
2) how long does the color coat need to gas out?
Rick Deckard hi Rick. I usually wet sand with 2000 grit unless I’ve got something stubborn in it. Then I use a 1500 grit. I usually try not to go any lower than 600 and if I use 600 I will respect whatever layer I was on. As for the color coat: I believe the color quart said 8 hours but I usually give it a day.
@@AngelosWorkbench Excellent, thanks for all that you do; and very nice finish!
Hi - What do you clean the airbrush with after using the 2K? Thanks.
I use lacquer thinner.
Hi Angelo, I was just wondering if you ever had any problems, due to the fact that this clear coat doesn't use any thinner. Have you ever had to add thinner?
Not yet. So far it sprays great. I’m using a .5mm nozzle in my Iwata.
So, Angelo . . . I have a 1982 Silver Ghost Corvette. How do I get on your Christmas list?
Great video! For the paint itself, did you have to thin it at all or is just straight from the can?
Brad Madigan good question - I did have to thin it. About 60% paint and 40% thinner.