Found this video whilst looking to modify my Golf R. Nice to see a knowledgeable engineer passing on quality information. Saved myself and plenty others some headache and wasted money. Thanks!
Thank you Herman - pity the majority of the "tooners" in the market especially in S.A have no idea what a turbo is or how it works, let alone limitations and how to spot a quality product and vice versa.
I was lucky to find this video on a Golf 7R forum. I really enjoy your style and presentation with hands on parts, and also that you are confirming my bias against aftermarket hybrid turbos. There is nothing I would love more than a G25-550 on my 7R. I used to work on TPE331s and I have the highest respect for Garrett AiResearch products.
Mr. Gale Banks was right when he told us long time ago that the hybrid turbos are no good what a legend . Great video thanks for the info i always thought that how the original turbo was desined and calculated that is how is should be period.
Hybrid upgrades are possible in some cases, not all. In most cases the inexperienced "hybrid builders" or "turbo guys" have no understanding of the relationship between the two rotating assemblies, and this is where they go wrong - bigger is almost NEVER better than a correctly matched/efficient combination. And then there is the bearing system - and this where where 99% of these "turbo guys" go wrong.
my cupra 280 has gone through 2 oem is38 turbos within the space of 2500 miles, i have logged the car many times, my tuner claims my boost levels to have been set to 1.8 bar mid range and 1.45 bar at the redline, however logs shows that my car can peak between 1.9-1.95 bar of boost, from my understanding this is overboost and could potentially be why both have failed.
There are a number of issues with the Stock IS38 -- the first is that they dont like high boost when governed by the incorrect torque limiter. So Boost versus turbine speed dont line up - 1.8bar boost is high for a stock IS38, but how the boost is achieved is what causes the issues. There is a turbine speed limiter map in the tuning, and most maps seem to confuse this with a torque limiter and increase this to get more power/boost/torque etc This is not the way to achieve this - the trick is in the DSG software.
Very impressive diagnosis of turbo failure using math and science! You're shortlisted as someone I want to consult when I go big turbo on my Golf 5 GTI.
My f82 m4 turbos are due for replacement. Ordered s55 pure stage 2 hybrid turbos last night. Just saw this video now and cancelled my order. Are all journal bearing hybrid turbos (for all modern cars) a bad idea? I was planning to run a basic OTS map around 24psi.
@@tfk7106 if the OEM bearing system is used with upgraded rotating assembly components, bad idea. If you want reliability run a ball bearing setup in single turbo format, spool is good, performance is easy due to many available turbo options to suit. Price would be less aswell but fabrication would be involved
To be clear, this video is specifically referring to JOURNAL hybrid IS38 turbos. Ball bearing hybrid turbos do not have these problems that were described with the shaft flex etc.
Im interested in getting a Garrett G2260S Powermax stage 1 turbo, is the shaft thickness 6mm like the G25-660? Is it more reliable than the standard IS38 and the IS38 hybrids? The 2260s is journal bearing so im not too sure if its as reliable as the G25-660
Stay away from ANY IS38 hybrid - they WILL fail. The Ball bearing bolt on turbocharger we manufacture are proven and reliable and make the power - see here:- ua-cam.com/video/mXeSW9B17bs/v-deo.html
They share the same bearing system, the IS38 is more prone to failures, due to the larger rotating assembly and loads placed on the bearing system as a result. BUT they will both fail when you upgrade the rotating assemblies beyond a point - which is what all the "turbo guys" are doing --
@@TurboDirectSA thank you again for the knowledge. I am one of these guys, and just waiting a little longer to replace my is20. It’s been stage 2 for about 14k miles
@@DaseggMQB same boat here, what direction are you going to go? This video has been incredibly informative, I’ll probably still go the is38 route from FCP Euro as they have a lifetime warranty.
Great information for Any tuner who takes pride in their products and care about quality along with customer service. The haters are the ones who don't. Thank you for your hard work..
Thanks for the comments - we love the haters, because our products prove themselves every time which fuels them even more, and they give us direction to make more videos to prove them wrong each time :-) There will always be nay sayers out there, we take them with a pinch of salt.
@@TurboDirectSA I am pretty sure they have the turbo speed set conservatively. It peaks at 22 psi at low elevation but drops to 19 psi at high elevation. Their stage 1 tune for the stock turbo didn't lose boost like that, it held the same boost pressure at elevation.
Very informative video. I have had my eyes on the CTS BB-550 hybrid is38, it’s got a td06 compressor wheel but mainly interested because it features a dual ceramic ball bearing. Would this be a reliable hybrid option?
turbodirect.co.za/store/index.php/shop/category-layout/results,1-24?virtuemart_category_id=&keyword=is38+forged&limitstart=0&option=com_virtuemart&view=category&Itemid=541 These are reliable, and unbeatable bang for the buck - tested and proven on our own shop development car for over 40 000kms
@@jaylonchung9528 If your engine is inline with the car its inline - if the engine sits sideways from left to right with the gearbox on the right hand side of the engine, its Transverse.
Hi I have a 2014 gti dsg pp I'm looking to get a little more power what recommendations do you have just looking for some decent knowledge from somebody who knows there stuff not looking to kill it tho just that little more umfffff
Thanks for the comment - see these two links:- 1) store.turbodirect.co.za/index.php/shop/turbochargers/is38-450t-forged-5568-detail 2) store.turbodirect.co.za/index.php/shop/turbochargers/is38-550t-forged-5569-detail These are two options that will definitely give you ALOT more oumph.
Congratulations for the video and the accurate information. I want to upgrade to stage 3 and I am evaluating the Racingline Stage 3 turbo kit (turbo hybrid). I know they use the IHI and use their own turbine wheels and high-spec bearing pack inside. They offer 490 hp on stage 3. Do you know the reliability of these turbos? Thank you
Thanks for your comments. No matter what the name is on the turbo - if the bearing system and the shaft dimensions are not changed you WILL see a failure - guaranteed. We have just finished testing and tuning our latest is38-450 which is a dual ball bearing turbo (watch out for the video coming soon) This turbo was put up against one of the popular 500HP capable unit from the UK at the same boost, same dyno and the results were interesting. Ill post the video on the channel soon. What you want is a reliable rotating assembly, that is responsive and makes the claimed power (possibly more) - this is what we have concentrated on and have succeeded with this and to top it off we have a price point that no apples with apples turbo can match.
I wouldnt use a hybrid turbo as an upgrade, and especially not one that costs that much -- i would lean towards a ball bearing turbo and do the necessary manifold mods to accomodate.
Woah.... I've a stock ea113 in my A3. Now scared to just remap lol! K03s boost pretty low from factory (0.6bar I think). If these tuner are simply increasing peak boost and holding it it till redline then surely k03s can't last too long? Although the more expensive route I should be fine reliability wise just aiming for a k04 set up correct? Thanks for this video.
Stephen, dont stress, the K03 design bearing system is capable of handling ALOT more thrust loading than the IS38 can. The K04 route is reliable and you dont have to worry about too much with these upgrades. OBVIOUSLY exaggerate the upgrade it will fail on you.
@@TurboDirectSA Staying K03 you can do things incrementally and spread costs over time (albeit with a lower ceiling), k04 wants an immediate kidney/lung down-payment lol! Thanks for your responses, subscribed.
So basically, by the "look" of the turbo shown at the end (rusted) it was in use for quite some time. Could be TUNE related, rather than manufacture related correct?
The rust on the housing is simply surface rust, the housing has been standing for months, we use this for training, so this is not a clear indication of the condition of the turbo as it came off the car. the failure is directly related to the abnormal expectation for such a tiny rotating assembly to perform outside of any realistic environment. Regardless of tuning - even if this size combination was run at 1.0bar gauge pressure the turbo would never last long. Remember the rotating assembly is designed to produce 550HP - in order to make this power you need to run high boost - therein lies the problem - boost it and it dies, the higher the boost the faster it will die - but DIE it WILL.
Thanks for the information! Why don't you show the company names? Just to create customer awareness. These hybrids are not cheap, to be risking the money for something that is going to break.
Sorry cant do this - we do not slander any company or person. I can give you a general warning on the IS38 turbochargers - while using OE size and specification bearing system components, THE TURBO WILL FAIL IF YOU UPGRADE IT IN ANY WAY OR FORM - GUARANTEED. If you run high boost on a stock IS38 - THE TURBO WILL FAIL. for 350WHP and more - original IS38 turbochargers aswell as hybrids using stock bearing systems WILL NOT LAST. No matter what the name plate says on it.
I have a IS20 hybrid turbo set to 1.4 bar on my 2013 Golf 7 Gti supported by a downpipe intake and software. Is my turbo safe since it was built by turbo direct?
Andrew Smith this boost pressure is not extreme and should not be unreliable. start to push the boundaries around 1.8bar and upwards of this and you will be on borrowed time, this i promise you.
I have had 2 oem is38s fail within 2500 miles of each other, the first time the shaft snapped where you show on this video, on the turbine side, the second one actually snapped on the compressor side, both times I noticed that on the back of the compressor wheel, on the flat side, that they were severely cracked, is this due to heat?
If the bearing system uses the stock OEM dimensions, it WILL fail - period. This is what i would suggest if it is a journal bearing setup bolt on, that you are after. ua-cam.com/video/POd230p7cTs/v-deo.html If its a ball bearing turbo you after - this is what i would suggest - also bolt on. ua-cam.com/video/N_sNwMPGNkM/v-deo.html
@@TurboDirectSA They say and I quote: The bearing housing has also been enlarged and upgraded to make room for a specifically designed 360° thrust bearing system, incorporating a custom 4 oil-fed thrust pad for increased reliability. Precision VSR balanced to levels above the OEM specification
@@a.c.gaming7452 what does ‘mapping’ involve? Increase in rotational speed/boost and engine performance which ultimately drives the turbocharger. This is what causes the failures - the turbo in stock format is 100% reliable
A certain company makes a turbo called a bb550 which is supposedly a whole new CHRA with ball bearings and it’s fitted with an exhaust housing built just for it as well as the compressor. Think it would be a reliable unit? Or would it have the same issue? Not sure if the redesign with ball bearings fixes the issues you’re showing
I have never heard of it, i cannot comment as i have no idea what BB cartridge is being used, for example there are various chinese companies who are marketing the BB setups, and purchasing these cartridges from a chinese company which wont be mentioned, but don't expect reliability from these inferior designs. There are other who import the cartridges from Europe and some from other countries, which seem to be more reliable. If you can find the original manufacturer of the BB cartridge of the OEM's you might find a reliable setup, IF you know how to engineer the internal structure of the supporting components. There is ALOT more to a BB setup than inserting a cartridge into a housing and bolting everything together and then balancing it. This is why we opted for the Genuine Garrett GTX3071R Gen2 inside our own housings. We will however have our own BB setup released this year to have an offering that competes with the Garrett G-series at a price point that is attractive.
@@southfloridaskimmin If its a Genuine OEM CHRA from the likes of Garrett or EFR, then trust it, provided the turbine housing is up to spec. If not - i would do research on what BB cartridge is used inside.
Ijs...every dollar I spend on my car has to count. It's my daily and I put my kids in it all the time. The Is38 is the recommended unit for my car by a lot of tuners, without cracking into the engine anyway. I'm personally wanting to go with the GT3071R, it's just a money thing currently, due to needing to up the fuel delivery and injectors to go along with the extra flow. I'm currently driving/building a 2010 Audi A3 fwd. full bolt ons with apr stage 2. Any alternative to this I'm open to suggestions
@@AdrianPurcell916 thats the first sensible comment surrounding making a choice for an upgraded turbocharger i have seen. I believe everyone should share the same views when deciding on upgrading anything turbo related. The fuel system does not need to be upgraded unless you want to start pushing the HP boundaries - its all about how much power you intend making. 400WHP the stock fuel system should be fine. More than this you need to consider upgrading engine internals anyway, and then at the same time you should be upgrading the fuel system aswell. I would consider a bolt on setup like the IS38-700 here:- ua-cam.com/video/N_sNwMPGNkM/v-deo.html This is one option of many out there
@@TurboDirectSA there's no reason to go over 400 in my family car, especially when it's fully upgraded with every Bolt on and software too boot. I just want a good ball bearing unit that makes great sounds lol. The kiddos are into wrenching ( all the elementary classmates think they are so cool coming to school in a "racecar"
Hey , i have polo 1.5 150hp dsg, can you tell me please if its safe for engine and dsg to take it around 240hp ,what is tour opinion for these motors?what will you do?
Dimitris i have never had personal experience with this engine, i cannot give you an accurate answer im afraid. I would research online and check with tuners or companies who have played with these engines and see what they have achieved on a stock motor. Dont take chances, in case there is a hidden secret that might bite you later.
Hi could you help me out, I recently sent back an is38 running stock turbine and compressor but apparently had uprated bearings, I sent it back as it had in and out play, when the turbo had returned to the company and was checked over, the rear of the turbine had chips In it and also the bearings were scored, what could have been the cause? The engine was flushed before the turbo was installed and the intercooler was cleaned out.
It seems really odd that a stock IS38 has upgraded bearings. In order to upgrade the bearings, the entire bearing housing would have to be machined, the thrust bearing, journals and split seal rings would have to be changed, and then both the turbine wheel and compressor wheel would have to change aswell - one of the upgrades done to the jounal bearings is that the diameter is increased. I have never seen this before - however if you have pictures of everything you can send this to info@turbodirect.co.za and ill get Chris to look at them and comment for you.
They still use stock turbine housing on the G7R unit, utilizing copied ball bearing call bearing cartridges from "imported from Germany" - which all the Chinese companies use. None of the original Garrett ball bearing cartridges are manufactured in Germany nor by a German company. The company that actually makes the ball bearing cartridges are called CNracing - and the quality is light years away from the original Garrett bearing design. See my other video on the copied G25-660 made by booshiwheel - they use the same "made in germany" bearing - the video speaks for itself.
Depending on boost and the tuning - now thats like saying how long is a piece of string. There is a map inside the SIMOS ECU which governs turbo speed, most "tuners" see this as a torque limiter and incorrectly increase this map which causes issues with reliability. Boost pressures should not exceed 1.5bar to be reliable from our experience. Together with a TCU tune you can get reliability but i doubt you will see 370WHP reliably on a stock IS38
@@thecrazycomputer001 Im not worries about HP - its the tuning and boost pressure (rotational speed) that determines reliability - thats the long and the short of it im afraid. Keep the boost low and the turbo will last - regardless of HP -- Push the limits and bare the consequences.
@@Ken888 If the bearing system internally on the IS38 is stock and you run high boost (regardless of how you get the boost to increase or whether the rotating assembly is stock or upgraded) the turbo WILL fail - period.
Agreed- we dont normally get involved with the weak points of products and upgrades, but there are so many customers screaming for our help in determining the cause of failures, that we had to release something to point customers toward to explain in some sort of understandable outline that people could find out why turbos are dying.
@@TurboDirectSA Is38 is weak by design as well...very bad platform for even tiny upgrades in the same shaft...Personally back in 2014 when i tried to push the golf 7 R to the limits i found out how weak they are very fast..
@@gt-innovationgt-innovation5729 exactly my point. Well there are solutions which we will put out a video on in the next two weeks - but first we have a bigger project we will be releasing this week.
How about Shuenk IS38+? any experience? They Increased-strength rotor shaft & stem with larger crosssection diameter... at least that is what you can read on their site. Thanks
Hi Diego, never had experience with them but if they have upgraded the internal bearing system and shaft cross section, then they are addressing the problem area.
@@TurboDirectSA here is a link to one: sneekytuned.com/collections/vw-audi-products/products/copy-of-shuenk-is38-oem-upgraded-is38-turbocharger-for-mk7-golf-ea888-gen3-mqb Does this seem like a better offering than the standard IS38? I'm really not interested in a hybrid turbo honestly. I haven't watched your video yet but I have a pretty good idea of what you're going to say. Will watch shortly.
@@TurboDirectSA here is a direct link to the manufacturer: shuenk.com/products/is38 It appears that they are upgrading everything, just using the standard casting. The shaft, turbine wheels, and bearings, and seals all appear to be/claimed to be upgraded. In the one photo the shaft it sits on appears to be quite large.
@@TurboDirectSA are those bearings upgraded? Upon second look it appears they may have just changed materials? The photo of the shaft and turbine wheels themselves appears to have a larger shaft, but those bearings still look pretty small. The reason I'm asking all these questions is I'm basically just looking to be able to make ~375WHP reliably on an IS38....
@@MeltingRubberZ28 Thanks for the comments and questions, firstly changing materials will not make the hybrid IS38 turbocharger out there more reliable, nor will this increase the tolerance for high thrust loading when running around 1.8bar + boost. The design itself for the enlarged rotating assembly is the issue - this is why we changed the design entirely. ALL bearings and thrust components are not off the shelf products, they are custom made and proven at boost levels over 2.0bar boost on circuit racers with 100% reliability. The stock casings (turbine and compressor housings) are not able to flow enough to compliment the high flow rates of the upgraded wheels we use in our IS38-600 and IS38-700 -- we have larger AR housings which compliment the flow instead of restricting it.
Ball Bearing "turbos" are not modified OEM units, therefore we don't consider them as a hybrid. If you referring to chinese IS38 copies with BB cartridges inside, these are very far away from being reliable. Seen them, tested them and killed them.
Its not whether or not the bearings are original MHI or not - it's the design of the shaft and bearing housing aswell as the thrust assembly that makes the setup reliable or not. The stock IS38 shaft diameter (compressor fit) is 5.0mm and the IS38-600 which is our journal bearing setup uses a shaft we designed with a diameter of 6.8mm - so far over 2.2bar boost we have yet to see we thrust failure
Thanks for this video. For me it was to late. My TTE610R Turbo broke. An expert told me Lots about why and it compare to what You say. Never run a TTE on your Golf. High money for a Turbo that was not made to handel the power. I will be dropping a video soon if Anyone wants to see for themself.
Please share the video, id be keen to see if the failure is similar to the ones we have seen coming past our lab. We have seen models and makes from all over the world.
Hi! I have Leon Cupra ST 4drive DSG 2018 model and its stock, I was wondering do you think that I can do a stage 1 or 2 without causing turbo failure? I was thinking 400hp maximum.
HI there Qendrim - the stock IS38 turbocharger with stage 2 software is already on the limits of reliability due to the small bearing system - upgrading the compressor stage to a 400HP setup is pushing the limits even more. Many say they have a reliable setup with similar mods, but there are more people who have suffered failures with the same upgrades. Its not reliable at all - Depending on the application (track, street, drag etc) I would recommend using the Swirl adapter and bolting on something like the EFR7163, or G25-550/660 - the swirl adapter can be found here:- ua-cam.com/video/y6PA_Xc0feI/v-deo.html
If it has the same shaft and bearing system diameter as the original unit, and you are boosting above 1.6-1.8bar gauge - then it doesn't matter what the products name is - it will fail as soon as the shaft flexes - we have an upgraded shaft and bearing system with 30% enlarged distribution area on the thrust bearing and mating components, we testing this at 2.5bar gauge press currently with good results - however the boost pressure has reached diminishing gains - (more boost makes no additional power, just introduce heat into the engine) most of the 52mm inducer compressor designs will max out at around 2.2bar gauge -
The EQT and Tomioka aren't true hybrids, they use all new castings, I would think they have upgraded shafts at that point and shaft flex wouldn't be an issue.
We have two options for the EA888 MQB platform - IS38-600 journal bearing and IS38-700 ball bearing models Check out this link for the journal bearing unit. turbodirect.co.za/store/index.php/shop/turbochargers/turbocharger-turbodirect-s-a/performance-racing-3/bolt-on-vehicle-specific-turbochargers/golf7r-is38-hulk-8blade-billet-compressor-4112-4288-4290-detail And this link for the Garrett GTX3071R CHRA built unit turbodirect.co.za/store/index.php/shop/turbochargers/turbocharger-turbodirect-s-a/performance-racing-3/bolt-on-vehicle-specific-turbochargers/golf7r-is38-hulk-8blade-billet-compressor-4112-4288-detail
@@TurboDirectSA I am highly interested in the IS38700. I have a built motor, built head, aftermarket manifold, 3.5inch downpipe, 1300cc injectors and dual 450 fuel pumps. I would like to test your unit to the max, I sent you an email (junjunm@gmail.com). Let's talk!
The IS20 has a smaller rotating assembly with less thrust loads - they will handle slightly higher boost than the larger IS38 will. Both turbos use the same internal bearing components, you safe -- for now, but who knows for how log.
There are many products and options out there - and each one has a different budget requirement - we offer a range of products as an example - the client chooses what he likes/can afford / prefers. We aim to do the comparisons, reviews, and share factual information on the products out there - and we leave the rest to the customer to choose.
No Sir - we use TD06 turbine shaft BUT a further upgraded bearing design over the TD06 Thrust assembly, making our rotating assembly even more reliable then the TD06 setup. In fact ALL Hybrid setups use TD06 internals (shaft and compressor wheel) but still use the IS38 bearing system - which is why they are all unreliable
It was a video removed as it was literally 2 minutes long and went about a compressor wheel that is designed to produce say 50lb/min of air flow (500HP) will need to run at a specific speed (boost) in order to make this power. The problem with the 99% of Hybrid turbochargers is that in order to make this power, you need to run more boost than the bearing system can handle - thereby killing the turbo - BMWN54, IS38, IS20, Audi 2.7T, and many others included.
Although i agree with you in many cases, the IS38 matter refers to a very under-designed bearing system, which cnnot handle stage1 software for long before showing signs of abnormal wear and resulting failure -- and then you get the 'turbo guys' who slap on the largest compressor wheel (because it makes power) and the turbo fails inside of 3 dyno runs..... In this case, the failures relate to 'tooners' who know very little about turbochargers in general. - Sad but true, especially in South Africa.
for less money than anytinhg else on the market here are two options that fix and safeguard the failures in the poor design Hybrid turbos using stock bearing systems and shaft diameters ua-cam.com/video/POd230p7cTs/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/N_sNwMPGNkM/v-deo.html
Found this video whilst looking to modify my Golf R. Nice to see a knowledgeable engineer passing on quality information. Saved myself and plenty others some headache and wasted money. Thanks!
Thank you for the compliment - im glad you found value in what we do.
I've personally torn down and built 4000 plus turbochargers over a 30 year period. This expert is correct on every point he makes.
Thank you Herman - pity the majority of the "tooners" in the market especially in S.A have no idea what a turbo is or how it works, let alone limitations and how to spot a quality product and vice versa.
I was lucky to find this video on a Golf 7R forum. I really enjoy your style and presentation with hands on parts, and also that you are confirming my bias against aftermarket hybrid turbos. There is nothing I would love more than a G25-550 on my 7R. I used to work on TPE331s and I have the highest respect for Garrett AiResearch products.
Glad you enjoy the videos!
Absolutely the BEST!!! explanation of how a turbo works and fails. Also how cheap hybrids are made Salute to you mate!
REVO IS38ETR 2 years and still running great.
this is in my future mod list. 😄
Is the revo is38etr a ff dual bb turbo? I have a 5f cupra 290 so too looking for a stage 3 setup with a good reliable turbo setup for around 550 max
I've always said full frame is better glad this video confirms it.
Mr. Gale Banks was right when he told us long time ago that the hybrid turbos are no good what a legend . Great video thanks for the info i always thought that how the original turbo was desined and calculated that is how is should be period.
Hybrid upgrades are possible in some cases, not all. In most cases the inexperienced "hybrid builders" or "turbo guys" have no understanding of the relationship between the two rotating assemblies, and this is where they go wrong - bigger is almost NEVER better than a correctly matched/efficient combination. And then there is the bearing system - and this where where 99% of these "turbo guys" go wrong.
Awesome explanation. I've heard that there can be issues but I haven't had anybody try to explain why. Thank you
Glad to provide useful info - enjoy.
my cupra 280 has gone through 2 oem is38 turbos within the space of 2500 miles, i have logged the car many times, my tuner claims my boost levels to have been set to 1.8 bar mid range and 1.45 bar at the redline, however logs shows that my car can peak between 1.9-1.95 bar of boost, from my understanding this is overboost and could potentially be why both have failed.
There are a number of issues with the Stock IS38 -- the first is that they dont like high boost when governed by the incorrect torque limiter. So Boost versus turbine speed dont line up -
1.8bar boost is high for a stock IS38, but how the boost is achieved is what causes the issues. There is a turbine speed limiter map in the tuning, and most maps seem to confuse this with a torque limiter and increase this to get more power/boost/torque etc
This is not the way to achieve this - the trick is in the DSG software.
This is going the rounds in Australia. I always knew something was sus with these hybrids. Those shaft bearings comparisons are in believable!
Good to know.
im glad you touched on shaft diameter. good information
Watching this i learnt alot and now i know what to look for and ask for when upgrading to a hybrid is38 setup but a full frame gen2 dual bb is the way
Glad you enjoy the content.
Very impressive diagnosis of turbo failure using math and science! You're shortlisted as someone I want to consult when I go big turbo on my Golf 5 GTI.
Thank you Kurt - what we do is in fact maths and a lot of science. :-)
My f82 m4 turbos are due for replacement. Ordered s55 pure stage 2 hybrid turbos last night. Just saw this video now and cancelled my order. Are all journal bearing hybrid turbos (for all modern cars) a bad idea? I was planning to run a basic OTS map around 24psi.
@@tfk7106 if the OEM bearing system is used with upgraded rotating assembly components, bad idea. If you want reliability run a ball bearing setup in single turbo format, spool is good, performance is easy due to many available turbo options to suit. Price would be less aswell but fabrication would be involved
To be clear, this video is specifically referring to JOURNAL hybrid IS38 turbos. Ball bearing hybrid turbos do not have these problems that were described with the shaft flex etc.
Correct - the journal bearing upgraded "hybrids" apply.
More then 95% of is38 hybrid turbos in the UK are journal bearing. Full frame gen2 BB turbos are the best and the way to go
Im interested in getting a Garrett G2260S Powermax stage 1 turbo, is the shaft thickness 6mm like the G25-660? Is it more reliable than the standard IS38 and the IS38 hybrids? The 2260s is journal bearing so im not too sure if its as reliable as the G25-660
Stay away from ANY IS38 hybrid - they WILL fail. The Ball bearing bolt on turbocharger we manufacture are proven and reliable and make the power - see here:- ua-cam.com/video/mXeSW9B17bs/v-deo.html
Thank you for the info! I’m still watching the video now, but would you say the common issues on is38’s are the same on is20’s?
They share the same bearing system, the IS38 is more prone to failures, due to the larger rotating assembly and loads placed on the bearing system as a result. BUT they will both fail when you upgrade the rotating assemblies beyond a point - which is what all the "turbo guys" are doing --
@@TurboDirectSA thank you again for the knowledge. I am one of these guys, and just waiting a little longer to replace my is20. It’s been stage 2 for about 14k miles
@@DaseggMQB same boat here, what direction are you going to go? This video has been incredibly informative, I’ll probably still go the is38 route from FCP Euro as they have a lifetime warranty.
@@brianwilhelm9464 you know I’m still trying to decide the direction I want to go right now. I’m thinking I’ll do a vortex standard though honestly
Thanks for saving me from a Hybrid. I decided to go with a GT2260 PMax.
Great information for Any tuner who takes pride in their products and care about quality along with customer service. The haters are the ones who don't. Thank you for your hard work..
Thanks for the comments - we love the haters, because our products prove themselves every time which fuels them even more, and they give us direction to make more videos to prove them wrong each time :-) There will always be nay sayers out there, we take them with a pinch of salt.
What about the OEM is38? I'm using one on my GTI with a Unitronic tune that peaks at 1.6 bar.
Depending on tuning and how the speed limiter map was setup, you might/might not be on borrowed time. The IS38 is NOT reliable when pushed.
@@TurboDirectSA I am pretty sure they have the turbo speed set conservatively. It peaks at 22 psi at low elevation but drops to 19 psi at high elevation. Their stage 1 tune for the stock turbo didn't lose boost like that, it held the same boost pressure at elevation.
@@Carguylogan Nothing conservative about a compressor map im afraid, these are real world tests results from a gas stand -
Thank you for the clear explanation, and the tour inside the IS38. Subscribed!
Pleasure sir - glad you enjoyed.
@@TurboDirectSA very informative and thanks 🙏
Thank you for share the clear details on the hybrid turbos, i was looking to upgrade to a hybrid is38 but that not going to happen.
Pleasure - glad i could help and save you money and heart ache.
Reminds me of the TD03 'upgrades' for the BMW N54 platforms, many of the same problems causing the same issues. SMH
Exactly right buddy - Hybrid turbochargers on small rotating assemblies with small AR housings do not work - period.
Can't wait for the N55 Hybrids from Turbo Direct
Funny enough we will be releasing a video on our upgraded N55 compressor hybrid build in the next few days - watch out for this one coming soon. :-)
Very informative video. I have had my eyes on the CTS BB-550 hybrid is38, it’s got a td06 compressor wheel but mainly interested because it features a dual ceramic ball bearing. Would this be a reliable hybrid option?
turbodirect.co.za/store/index.php/shop/category-layout/results,1-24?virtuemart_category_id=&keyword=is38+forged&limitstart=0&option=com_virtuemart&view=category&Itemid=541
These are reliable, and unbeatable bang for the buck - tested and proven on our own shop development car for over 40 000kms
@@TurboDirectSA thanks. What is the difference between logitudinal and transverse engines and how do i know which one i have
@@jaylonchung9528 If your engine is inline with the car its inline - if the engine sits sideways from left to right with the gearbox on the right hand side of the engine, its Transverse.
Hi I have a 2014 gti dsg pp I'm looking to get a little more power what recommendations do you have just looking for some decent knowledge from somebody who knows there stuff not looking to kill it tho just that little more umfffff
Thanks for the comment - see these two links:-
1) store.turbodirect.co.za/index.php/shop/turbochargers/is38-450t-forged-5568-detail
2) store.turbodirect.co.za/index.php/shop/turbochargers/is38-550t-forged-5569-detail
These are two options that will definitely give you ALOT more oumph.
Great video, great explanation.
Thank you for the compliment
Congratulations for the video and the accurate information. I want to upgrade to stage 3 and I am evaluating the Racingline Stage 3 turbo kit (turbo hybrid). I know they use the IHI and use their own turbine wheels and high-spec bearing pack inside. They offer 490 hp on stage 3. Do you know the reliability of these turbos? Thank you
Thanks for your comments. No matter what the name is on the turbo - if the bearing system and the shaft dimensions are not changed you WILL see a failure - guaranteed. We have just finished testing and tuning our latest is38-450 which is a dual ball bearing turbo (watch out for the video coming soon) This turbo was put up against one of the popular 500HP capable unit from the UK at the same boost, same dyno and the results were interesting. Ill post the video on the channel soon.
What you want is a reliable rotating assembly, that is responsive and makes the claimed power (possibly more) - this is what we have concentrated on and have succeeded with this and to top it off we have a price point that no apples with apples turbo can match.
I was going to upgrade to a pure turbo stage 2 turbo on my 2011 535i is this not a good idea?
I wouldnt use a hybrid turbo as an upgrade, and especially not one that costs that much -- i would lean towards a ball bearing turbo and do the necessary manifold mods to accomodate.
Woah.... I've a stock ea113 in my A3. Now scared to just remap lol! K03s boost pretty low from factory (0.6bar I think). If these tuner are simply increasing peak boost and holding it it till redline then surely k03s can't last too long?
Although the more expensive route I should be fine reliability wise just aiming for a k04 set up correct?
Thanks for this video.
Stephen, dont stress, the K03 design bearing system is capable of handling ALOT more thrust loading than the IS38 can. The K04 route is reliable and you dont have to worry about too much with these upgrades. OBVIOUSLY exaggerate the upgrade it will fail on you.
@@TurboDirectSA Staying K03 you can do things incrementally and spread costs over time (albeit with a lower ceiling), k04 wants an immediate kidney/lung down-payment lol!
Thanks for your responses, subscribed.
@@stephenpato5524 LOL thanks for the comment Stephen
So basically, by the "look" of the turbo shown at the end (rusted) it was in use for quite some time. Could be TUNE related, rather than manufacture related correct?
The rust on the housing is simply surface rust, the housing has been standing for months, we use this for training, so this is not a clear indication of the condition of the turbo as it came off the car. the failure is directly related to the abnormal expectation for such a tiny rotating assembly to perform outside of any realistic environment.
Regardless of tuning - even if this size combination was run at 1.0bar gauge pressure the turbo would never last long. Remember the rotating assembly is designed to produce 550HP - in order to make this power you need to run high boost - therein lies the problem - boost it and it dies, the higher the boost the faster it will die - but DIE it WILL.
Do you guys have any stock is38s that are second hand? Desperate for one
Yes, the turbo from the development car is being refreshed and will be put up for sale - shoot an email to info@turbodirect.co.za
Exceptional mechanical forensics demonstration here
Thank you sire
so what big turbo do you say i should buy for a 2017 a3 quattro 2.0?? @turbodirect s.a
What HP target ?
Thanks for the information! Why don't you show the company names? Just to create customer awareness. These hybrids are not cheap, to be risking the money for something that is going to break.
Sorry cant do this - we do not slander any company or person. I can give you a general warning on the IS38 turbochargers - while using OE size and specification bearing system components, THE TURBO WILL FAIL IF YOU UPGRADE IT IN ANY WAY OR FORM - GUARANTEED. If you run high boost on a stock IS38 - THE TURBO WILL FAIL. for 350WHP and more - original IS38 turbochargers aswell as hybrids using stock bearing systems WILL NOT LAST. No matter what the name plate says on it.
This is enlightened, what do you recommend for 2.2 bar +?
Do you guys offer a twin scroll?
What HP target do you have in mind? Why would you want a twin scroll?
I have a IS20 hybrid turbo set to 1.4 bar on my 2013 Golf 7 Gti supported by a downpipe intake and software. Is my turbo safe since it was built by turbo direct?
Andrew Smith this boost pressure is not extreme and should not be unreliable. start to push the boundaries around 1.8bar and upwards of this and you will be on borrowed time, this i promise you.
Is the Rev9 IS38 unreliable? The upgraded billet one to be specific.
Does this turbo use the stock bearing system ? If it does, then it is unreliable guaranteed especially if it has any upgraded rotating assembly parts.
I have had 2 oem is38s fail within 2500 miles of each other, the first time the shaft snapped where you show on this video, on the turbine side, the second one actually snapped on the compressor side, both times I noticed that on the back of the compressor wheel, on the flat side, that they were severely cracked, is this due to heat?
The damage sustained to the compressor back disc is as a result of the failure - it is not the failure mechanism itself.
Hype versus facts. This is a must watch video before you spend your hard earned money...
I'm in the market looking for 500hp on a Audi S3 8V Pre-facelift. What's your take on Revo new IS38ETR V2? I'm would really appreciate your feedback?
If the bearing system uses the stock OEM dimensions, it WILL fail - period. This is what i would suggest if it is a journal bearing setup bolt on, that you are after. ua-cam.com/video/POd230p7cTs/v-deo.html
If its a ball bearing turbo you after - this is what i would suggest - also bolt on. ua-cam.com/video/N_sNwMPGNkM/v-deo.html
@@TurboDirectSA They say and I quote: The bearing housing has also been enlarged and upgraded to make room for a specifically designed 360° thrust bearing system, incorporating a custom 4 oil-fed thrust pad for increased reliability. Precision VSR balanced to levels above the OEM specification
@@Eli07K If the bearing system and shaft diameter is enlarged, then they have addressed the weakness in the turbo.
So mappping a is38 will make less reliable or they prone to blow anyways
@@a.c.gaming7452 what does ‘mapping’ involve? Increase in rotational speed/boost and engine performance which ultimately drives the turbocharger. This is what causes the failures - the turbo in stock format is 100% reliable
A certain company makes a turbo called a bb550 which is supposedly a whole new CHRA with ball bearings and it’s fitted with an exhaust housing built just for it as well as the compressor. Think it would be a reliable unit? Or would it have the same issue? Not sure if the redesign with ball bearings fixes the issues you’re showing
I have never heard of it, i cannot comment as i have no idea what BB cartridge is being used, for example there are various chinese companies who are marketing the BB setups, and purchasing these cartridges from a chinese company which wont be mentioned, but don't expect reliability from these inferior designs. There are other who import the cartridges from Europe and some from other countries, which seem to be more reliable.
If you can find the original manufacturer of the BB cartridge of the OEM's you might find a reliable setup, IF you know how to engineer the internal structure of the supporting components. There is ALOT more to a BB setup than inserting a cartridge into a housing and bolting everything together and then balancing it. This is why we opted for the Genuine Garrett GTX3071R Gen2 inside our own housings.
We will however have our own BB setup released this year to have an offering that competes with the Garrett G-series at a price point that is attractive.
@@TurboDirectSA it’s CTS bb550 turbo
@@southfloridaskimmin If its a Genuine OEM CHRA from the likes of Garrett or EFR, then trust it, provided the turbine housing is up to spec. If not - i would do research on what BB cartridge is used inside.
OEM is38 running Great!
How about the v5 ....
Great explanation sir, thanks for the great content
Thank you Adrian much appreciated
Ijs...every dollar I spend on my car has to count. It's my daily and I put my kids in it all the time. The Is38 is the recommended unit for my car by a lot of tuners, without cracking into the engine anyway. I'm personally wanting to go with the GT3071R, it's just a money thing currently, due to needing to up the fuel delivery and injectors to go along with the extra flow. I'm currently driving/building a 2010 Audi A3 fwd. full bolt ons with apr stage 2. Any alternative to this I'm open to suggestions
@@AdrianPurcell916 thats the first sensible comment surrounding making a choice for an upgraded turbocharger i have seen. I believe everyone should share the same views when deciding on upgrading anything turbo related.
The fuel system does not need to be upgraded unless you want to start pushing the HP boundaries - its all about how much power you intend making. 400WHP the stock fuel system should be fine. More than this you need to consider upgrading engine internals anyway, and then at the same time you should be upgrading the fuel system aswell.
I would consider a bolt on setup like the IS38-700 here:- ua-cam.com/video/N_sNwMPGNkM/v-deo.html
This is one option of many out there
@@TurboDirectSA there's no reason to go over 400 in my family car, especially when it's fully upgraded with every Bolt on and software too boot. I just want a good ball bearing unit that makes great sounds lol. The kiddos are into wrenching ( all the elementary classmates think they are so cool coming to school in a "racecar"
@@AdrianPurcell916 My sentiment exactly fo a street family car - the IS38-700 is a perfect candidate for this.
Hey , i have polo 1.5 150hp dsg, can you tell me please if its safe for engine and dsg to take it around 240hp ,what is tour opinion for these motors?what will you do?
Dimitris i have never had personal experience with this engine, i cannot give you an accurate answer im afraid. I would research online and check with tuners or companies who have played with these engines and see what they have achieved on a stock motor. Dont take chances, in case there is a hidden secret that might bite you later.
@@TurboDirectSA Thank you for your instant reply , i'l be waiting if you find something , thanks a lot
@@jim7087 Pleasure buddy
Hi could you help me out, I recently sent back an is38 running stock turbine and compressor but apparently had uprated bearings, I sent it back as it had in and out play, when the turbo had returned to the company and was checked over, the rear of the turbine had chips In it and also the bearings were scored, what could have been the cause? The engine was flushed before the turbo was installed and the intercooler was cleaned out.
It seems really odd that a stock IS38 has upgraded bearings. In order to upgrade the bearings, the entire bearing housing would have to be machined, the thrust bearing, journals and split seal rings would have to be changed, and then both the turbine wheel and compressor wheel would have to change aswell - one of the upgrades done to the jounal bearings is that the diameter is increased. I have never seen this before - however if you have pictures of everything you can send this to info@turbodirect.co.za and ill get Chris to look at them and comment for you.
Hi Chris
Have you checked out Snail Turbo CBB IS38 Hybrid Turbo.
Its a company from Taiwan.
They still use stock turbine housing on the G7R unit, utilizing copied ball bearing call bearing cartridges from "imported from Germany" - which all the Chinese companies use. None of the original Garrett ball bearing cartridges are manufactured in Germany nor by a German company. The company that actually makes the ball bearing cartridges are called CNracing - and the quality is light years away from the original Garrett bearing design. See my other video on the copied G25-660 made by booshiwheel - they use the same "made in germany" bearing - the video speaks for itself.
Any experience with Littco L500. Currently have it fitted running 2 bar 500bhp
No we haven't had any experience with these turbos, not sure of the design or bearing system, so i cannot comment on this specific turbo.
Hello, is the IS38 reliable in a stage 1 configuration on a Mk7.5 Golf R? I’m thinking of pushing it to something like 370 horsepower
Depending on boost and the tuning - now thats like saying how long is a piece of string. There is a map inside the SIMOS ECU which governs turbo speed, most "tuners" see this as a torque limiter and incorrectly increase this map which causes issues with reliability. Boost pressures should not exceed 1.5bar to be reliable from our experience. Together with a TCU tune you can get reliability but i doubt you will see 370WHP reliably on a stock IS38
@@TurboDirectSA Thank you for the answer! I was referring to 370 hp at the crank, is that more feasible?
@@thecrazycomputer001 Im not worries about HP - its the tuning and boost pressure (rotational speed) that determines reliability - thats the long and the short of it im afraid. Keep the boost low and the turbo will last - regardless of HP --
Push the limits and bare the consequences.
@@TurboDirectSA so would running a JB4 create reliability issues since certain maps add +6 PSI of boost?
@@Ken888 If the bearing system internally on the IS38 is stock and you run high boost (regardless of how you get the boost to increase or whether the rotating assembly is stock or upgraded) the turbo WILL fail - period.
Awesome video bro! Thank you for saving me cash
Pleasure
Hey I'm looking at the HPA IS38 OEM+ with stronger internals NOT A HYBRID IM ONLY LOOKING TO GET 400HP OUT OF THE CAR IS THIS A RELIABLE TURBO
Provided the shaft and bearing system is upgraded (not changed for new IS38 dimensional replacements) then you should see more reliability.
It was about time ...... Tuners have to wake up and this goes on for years even back when 1.6 turbo fords were top on the tuning scene..
Agreed- we dont normally get involved with the weak points of products and upgrades, but there are so many customers screaming for our help in determining the cause of failures, that we had to release something to point customers toward to explain in some sort of understandable outline that people could find out why turbos are dying.
@@TurboDirectSA Is38 is weak by design as well...very bad platform for even tiny upgrades in the same shaft...Personally back in 2014 when i tried to push the golf 7 R to the limits i found out how weak they are very fast..
@@gt-innovationgt-innovation5729 exactly my point. Well there are solutions which we will put out a video on in the next two weeks - but first we have a bigger project we will be releasing this week.
How about Shuenk IS38+? any experience? They Increased-strength rotor shaft & stem with larger crosssection diameter... at least that is what you can read on their site. Thanks
Hi Diego, never had experience with them but if they have upgraded the internal bearing system and shaft cross section, then they are addressing the problem area.
@@TurboDirectSA here is a link to one:
sneekytuned.com/collections/vw-audi-products/products/copy-of-shuenk-is38-oem-upgraded-is38-turbocharger-for-mk7-golf-ea888-gen3-mqb
Does this seem like a better offering than the standard IS38? I'm really not interested in a hybrid turbo honestly. I haven't watched your video yet but I have a pretty good idea of what you're going to say. Will watch shortly.
@@TurboDirectSA here is a direct link to the manufacturer:
shuenk.com/products/is38
It appears that they are upgrading everything, just using the standard casting. The shaft, turbine wheels, and bearings, and seals all appear to be/claimed to be upgraded. In the one photo the shaft it sits on appears to be quite large.
@@TurboDirectSA are those bearings upgraded? Upon second look it appears they may have just changed materials? The photo of the shaft and turbine wheels themselves appears to have a larger shaft, but those bearings still look pretty small.
The reason I'm asking all these questions is I'm basically just looking to be able to make ~375WHP reliably on an IS38....
@@MeltingRubberZ28 Thanks for the comments and questions, firstly changing materials will not make the hybrid IS38 turbocharger out there more reliable, nor will this increase the tolerance for high thrust loading when running around 1.8bar + boost.
The design itself for the enlarged rotating assembly is the issue - this is why we changed the design entirely. ALL bearings and thrust components are not off the shelf products, they are custom made and proven at boost levels over 2.0bar boost on circuit racers with 100% reliability.
The stock casings (turbine and compressor housings) are not able to flow enough to compliment the high flow rates of the upgraded wheels we use in our IS38-600 and IS38-700 -- we have larger AR housings which compliment the flow instead of restricting it.
So are they are ball bearing hybrids or only the journal bearing?
Ball Bearing "turbos" are not modified OEM units, therefore we don't consider them as a hybrid. If you referring to chinese IS38 copies with BB cartridges inside, these are very far away from being reliable. Seen them, tested them and killed them.
Do you guys make an upgraded IS38? I'm struggling to search thru your website and stuff and am interested in some day upgrading my IS20 to one....
Me to for my gti just exploring options before I fcuk my car up lol
@@tiktokshortsellabellahi7949 I went with FCP Euro. Lifetime warranty. IS38 is great.
have you heard of a german company that uses original td06 bearings in theirs is38 hybrids?
Its not whether or not the bearings are original MHI or not - it's the design of the shaft and bearing housing aswell as the thrust assembly that makes the setup reliable or not. The stock IS38 shaft diameter (compressor fit) is 5.0mm and the IS38-600 which is our journal bearing setup uses a shaft we designed with a diameter of 6.8mm - so far over 2.2bar boost we have yet to see we thrust failure
Thanks for this video. For me it was to late. My TTE610R Turbo broke. An expert told me Lots about why and it compare to what You say. Never run a TTE on your Golf. High money for a Turbo that was not made to handel the power. I will be dropping a video soon if Anyone wants to see for themself.
Please share the video, id be keen to see if the failure is similar to the ones we have seen coming past our lab. We have seen models and makes from all over the world.
@@TurboDirectSA will do soon
My video is up let me know what You think
@@BoostBroers Send the link here buddy
Hi! I have Leon Cupra ST 4drive DSG 2018 model and its stock, I was wondering do you think that I can do a stage 1 or 2 without causing turbo failure? I was thinking 400hp maximum.
HI there Qendrim - the stock IS38 turbocharger with stage 2 software is already on the limits of reliability due to the small bearing system - upgrading the compressor stage to a 400HP setup is pushing the limits even more. Many say they have a reliable setup with similar mods, but there are more people who have suffered failures with the same upgrades. Its not reliable at all - Depending on the application (track, street, drag etc) I would recommend using the Swirl adapter and bolting on something like the EFR7163, or G25-550/660 - the swirl adapter can be found here:- ua-cam.com/video/y6PA_Xc0feI/v-deo.html
Do you offer turbos for mk7 gti MQB?
yes we do -
So this goes for the EQT XL as well???
If it has the same shaft and bearing system diameter as the original unit, and you are boosting above 1.6-1.8bar gauge - then it doesn't matter what the products name is - it will fail as soon as the shaft flexes - we have an upgraded shaft and bearing system with 30% enlarged distribution area on the thrust bearing and mating components, we testing this at 2.5bar gauge press currently with good results - however the boost pressure has reached diminishing gains - (more boost makes no additional power, just introduce heat into the engine) most of the 52mm inducer compressor designs will max out at around 2.2bar gauge -
@@TurboDirectSA we haven't tuned it yet, but i believe we should be good up to 2.6bar on the hybrid i have
@@SomeOne-on6yf I wish you all the luck with the tuning.
@@TurboDirectSA thanks, ill post dyno videos
The EQT and Tomioka aren't true hybrids, they use all new castings, I would think they have upgraded shafts at that point and shaft flex wouldn't be an issue.
I was able to recognize those wheels right away. Which turbos do you recommend for at least 580whp?
We have two options for the EA888 MQB platform - IS38-600 journal bearing and IS38-700 ball bearing models Check out this link for the journal bearing unit. turbodirect.co.za/store/index.php/shop/turbochargers/turbocharger-turbodirect-s-a/performance-racing-3/bolt-on-vehicle-specific-turbochargers/golf7r-is38-hulk-8blade-billet-compressor-4112-4288-4290-detail
And this link for the Garrett GTX3071R CHRA built unit turbodirect.co.za/store/index.php/shop/turbochargers/turbocharger-turbodirect-s-a/performance-racing-3/bolt-on-vehicle-specific-turbochargers/golf7r-is38-hulk-8blade-billet-compressor-4112-4288-detail
@@TurboDirectSA I am highly interested in the IS38700. I have a built motor, built head, aftermarket manifold, 3.5inch downpipe, 1300cc injectors and dual 450 fuel pumps.
I would like to test your unit to the max, I sent you an email (junjunm@gmail.com). Let's talk!
Oh boy, my stock IS20 peaking at 1.9bar is going to pop.
The IS20 has a smaller rotating assembly with less thrust loads - they will handle slightly higher boost than the larger IS38 will. Both turbos use the same internal bearing components, you safe -- for now, but who knows for how log.
So just go big turbo? CTS Boss kit?
There are many products and options out there - and each one has a different budget requirement - we offer a range of products as an example - the client chooses what he likes/can afford / prefers. We aim to do the comparisons, reviews, and share factual information on the products out there - and we leave the rest to the customer to choose.
DBV2 is the only Hybrid is38 I know of that does have a full TD06 CHARA installed.
No Sir - we use TD06 turbine shaft BUT a further upgraded bearing design over the TD06 Thrust assembly, making our rotating assembly even more reliable then the TD06 setup.
In fact ALL Hybrid setups use TD06 internals (shaft and compressor wheel) but still use the IS38 bearing system - which is why they are all unreliable
500hp or 500whp
The turbo makes 500WHP on our dyno - every dyno is different.
Good info, but please use better microphone (and closer to the speaker) to get better audio.
I like you..we are now friends
good job
Awesome vid , informative
Thanks a lot!
3:05 as always no link no where...
It was a video removed as it was literally 2 minutes long and went about a compressor wheel that is designed to produce say 50lb/min of air flow (500HP) will need to run at a specific speed (boost) in order to make this power. The problem with the 99% of Hybrid turbochargers is that in order to make this power, you need to run more boost than the bearing system can handle - thereby killing the turbo - BMWN54, IS38, IS20, Audi 2.7T, and many others included.
Most turbos fail because people abuse them, expecting to much and boosting it to high.
Although i agree with you in many cases, the IS38 matter refers to a very under-designed bearing system, which cnnot handle stage1 software for long before showing signs of abnormal wear and resulting failure -- and then you get the 'turbo guys' who slap on the largest compressor wheel (because it makes power) and the turbo fails inside of 3 dyno runs.....
In this case, the failures relate to 'tooners' who know very little about turbochargers in general. - Sad but true, especially in South Africa.
just buy a Littco turbo
for less money than anytinhg else on the market here are two options that fix and safeguard the failures in the poor design Hybrid turbos using stock bearing systems and shaft diameters
ua-cam.com/video/POd230p7cTs/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/N_sNwMPGNkM/v-deo.html