About twenty. Years ago I used to brew lager from a kit which I got from asda, you had to boil it in about 10 litres of water and then add a sachet of powdered hops, when it was ready you could not tell it was homebrew, I recently took up the hobby again and used a youngs lager kit and used extra light spray malt instead of sugar, unfortunately the beer is weak has a good head that soon dwindles and it tastes like home-brewed, where did I go wrong, I'm thinking of packing it in.
just made a substantial order heres hoping it is the first of many from this company, prices are good and the range is fantastic, been using another provider but this one seems more comprehensive lets hope the dispatch time is as good as reports suggest
Most 5 Gallon kits are one tin, why you guys put two in to make 5 gallons that would effect the amount of sugar and yeast required. By using 2 tins per 5 Gallon you have changed the outcome of the brew and prob not for the better, also why all the messing about dangerously with boiling water those tins get super hot very quickly yet same result can be achieved using warm to hot water just takes a bit longer which patience comes with home-brewing or you end up with nasty tastings result
What a load of crap! The guy pouring boiling water into a can he is holding was the final straw, and I stopped watchingto comment. If you are going to rinse the cans with boiling water, then preheating them is just a waste of hot water and time. And for crying out loud, don't hold a metal can while pouring boiling water into it! Jesus, did your parents teach you nothing about safety? These guys are just putting the crappy written instructions to a video. Here is how to do a homebrew kit, such as Wherry, which has no additional hopping. 1. Sanitise your brew bucket, a jug & your spoon. 1/4 milton tablet, 1.25 litres tap water into the bucket. Chuck in the long spoon, jug & a sponge. 2. After the milton has dissolved use the sponge to wipe the bucket insides, spoon, jug & bin lid ( airlock if used too). Do this 4-5 times over 15 minutes. All now sterile. Empty the steriliser away. 3. Here is you first time saver. Simply open the cans or pouches and empty them into the ferment bin. Quarter fill with those with boiing water while they sit on your worktop. DO NOT HOLD THEM LIKE HE DOES unless you're not worried about scalding yourself. Use the sterile spoon to move the hot water in the cans/pouches to scavenge all the malt extract and then tip into the fermenter. 4. We want about 1.5 - 3.0 litres of boiling water, including what you just used to scavenge the cans, in the fermenter. Top up rest with cold. Short brew by 1/2 litre, see below step 7, so top up to 22.5L not 23. Pour each jug full from some height to introduce oxygen into the wort. At this stage, oxygen is good. Stir, and check fermenter is at 19-25 deg C ( it will be). 5 Just tip the yeast in. Don't need to stir or bugger about with it. Fit the lid and airlock if you are using one. I don't, the lid leaks enough to stop pressure build up. Leave for about 2 weeks, though if there are any late addition hops, put them in 2-3 days before you will bottle. 6. Obviously sterilise bottles and caps and any bottling aids ( I use a bottle wand). Sterilise a second tub (mine has a tap) - basically anything you will use that comes into contact with the beer. Do the long spoon - you will need that in next step. 7. Boil about 1 litre water in a pan, and slowly tip about half away when boiled to sterilise the side of the pan you will pour over in a few mins. Stir into this hot water exactly 150g of sugar - table or dextrose until it is clear in the pan. Add this to your beer and stir with the sterilised spoon. 8. Bottle the beer with some head space. A bottling wand helps here as you fill the bottle, and as you take the wand out, you end up with correct head space. Cap the bottle with a sterilised cap 9. IMPORTANT - put somewhere warm for 2 weeks. The Yeast/crap will settle out and the beer will be clear when viewed against the light. I use brown bottles to protect my beer from Sun strike, but always bottle one or two in a clear bottle to check condition. 10. If you follow the 2/2 rule (2 weeks ferment/ 2 weeks in bottle) you'll get good beer. Now put those 2 muppets back in their box ;-)
Glad I wasn't the only one that struggled with the tin opener!
best video on how to home brew. simple as . well done chaps
Thank you guys for this video!
My home brewing kit is still unopened but now I know better how to use it.
I find topping up with cold water from a good height will give you a good foam for the yeast
About twenty. Years ago I used to brew lager from a kit which I got from asda, you had to boil it in about 10 litres of water and then add a sachet of powdered hops, when it was ready you could not tell it was homebrew, I recently took up the hobby again and used a youngs lager kit and used extra light spray malt instead of sugar, unfortunately the beer is weak has a good head that soon dwindles and it tastes like home-brewed, where did I go wrong, I'm thinking of packing it in.
Why pack it in go watch Craig tube best channel on you tube
jimmy s why pack it in go watch Craig tube best channel on you tube
just made a substantial order heres hoping it is the first of many from this company, prices are good and the range is fantastic, been using another provider but this one seems more comprehensive lets hope the dispatch time is as good as reports suggest
Rule No 1. Buy a good tin opener! :)
Simon Le Bon and Alfie Allen working together to make great beer...
The water. Is this tap water with chlorine, limescale, fluoride, lead, or is it Spring Water.?
what calculation do i use to work out the alcohol percentage?
the funny part is they added more oxygen pouring the water in than stirring it.
Was Ben drunk when this video was recorded.
Are You both high?
Who is the boss regards
About 1040. No it wasn’t
Most 5 Gallon kits are one tin, why you guys put two in to make 5 gallons that would effect the amount of sugar and yeast required. By using 2 tins per 5 Gallon you have changed the outcome of the brew and prob not for the better, also why all the messing about dangerously with boiling water those tins get super hot very quickly yet same result can be achieved using warm to hot water just takes a bit longer which patience comes with home-brewing or you end up with nasty tastings result
Dude's never heard of a toucan...
Don't forget to sterilise everything!... except the 23L of cold water straight out of your tap full of bugs...
How would you sterilise the water ?
Full of bugs? Do you turn on your cold tap and spiders just come pouring out?
What a load of crap! The guy pouring boiling water into a can he is holding was the final straw, and I stopped watchingto comment. If you are going to rinse the cans with boiling water, then preheating them is just a waste of hot water and time. And for crying out loud, don't hold a metal can while pouring boiling water into it! Jesus, did your parents teach you nothing about safety? These guys are just putting the crappy written instructions to a video. Here is how to do a homebrew kit, such as Wherry, which has no additional hopping.
1. Sanitise your brew bucket, a jug & your spoon. 1/4 milton tablet, 1.25 litres tap water into the bucket. Chuck in the long spoon, jug & a sponge.
2. After the milton has dissolved use the sponge to wipe the bucket insides, spoon, jug & bin lid ( airlock if used too). Do this 4-5 times over 15 minutes. All now sterile. Empty the steriliser away.
3. Here is you first time saver. Simply open the cans or pouches and empty them into the ferment bin. Quarter fill with those with boiing water while they sit on your worktop. DO NOT HOLD THEM LIKE HE DOES unless you're not worried about scalding yourself. Use the sterile spoon to move the hot water in the cans/pouches to scavenge all the malt extract and then tip into the fermenter.
4. We want about 1.5 - 3.0 litres of boiling water, including what you just used to scavenge the cans, in the fermenter. Top up rest with cold. Short brew by 1/2 litre, see below step 7, so top up to 22.5L not 23. Pour each jug full from some height to introduce oxygen into the wort. At this stage, oxygen is good. Stir, and check fermenter is at 19-25 deg C ( it will be).
5 Just tip the yeast in. Don't need to stir or bugger about with it. Fit the lid and airlock if you are using one. I don't, the lid leaks enough to stop pressure build up. Leave for about 2 weeks, though if there are any late addition hops, put them in 2-3 days before you will bottle.
6. Obviously sterilise bottles and caps and any bottling aids ( I use a bottle wand). Sterilise a second tub (mine has a tap) - basically anything you will use that comes into contact with the beer. Do the long spoon - you will need that in next step.
7. Boil about 1 litre water in a pan, and slowly tip about half away when boiled to sterilise the side of the pan you will pour over in a few mins. Stir into this hot water exactly 150g of sugar - table or dextrose until it is clear in the pan. Add this to your beer and stir with the sterilised spoon.
8. Bottle the beer with some head space. A bottling wand helps here as you fill the bottle, and as you take the wand out, you end up with correct head space. Cap the bottle with a sterilised cap
9. IMPORTANT - put somewhere warm for 2 weeks. The Yeast/crap will settle out and the beer will be clear when viewed against the light. I use brown bottles to protect my beer from Sun strike, but always bottle one or two in a clear bottle to check condition.
10. If you follow the 2/2 rule (2 weeks ferment/ 2 weeks in bottle) you'll get good beer.
Now put those 2 muppets back in their box ;-)
Bad music
seriously mute that shite music in the background!! good content though
Oh man, sound so bad and stupid music in addition...
music is unnecessary....