Tutorial: Narrow Shoulder Adjustment
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Today, I’m showing you how to do a narrow shoulder adjustment. This also works for a broad shoulder adjustment in the reverse!
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Love Notions Tidal Dress (affiliate): www.lovenotion...
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Love Notions Rhapsody Blouse (affiliate): www.lovenotion...
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For reference: I am 5’2” and my measurements are as follows, upper bust 36”, full bust 40”, waist 33”, hip 40”
Thanks! Very helpful, but will need to watch again before actually using this technique!
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I have struggled with this adjustment for years. Thank you so much for a straightforward way to do this.
My pleasure!
Thank you so much for this. I have been struggling with this pattern and a small shoulder adjustment. I can't tell you how many muslins I have made. Nothing has worked yet. I am looking forward to trying this method. I was at a loss with the yoke. Excellent video.
Thank you so much!
@@TomKatStitchery I used this method yesterday on the rhapsody and it was so much better than other methods I have tried. Thank you again!
Grateful for more tutorials regarding adjustments. How to make changes for wide and sloping shoulders? Thank you.
While the sloping shoulder adjustment is different, the wide shoulder adjustment is the same as this only you are swinging the shoulder point out instead of in.
@@TomKatStitchery Thank you.
Here again for a follow along!
Wonderful! Thanks for joining!
Nicely done…clear. Glad you mentioned to use a pencil to draw lines rather than a marker. I would not have thought it made much difference. That’s why you are the instructor! Thanks.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! I have very narrow shoulders and a large bust so this will be an adjustment I need to make on almost every pattern.
I feel you on that!
Great content. How can you tell if you need a narrow shoulder adjustment? I do notice some patterns are a bit wide in the neckline for me. And when I pinch the middle it looks better.
Great question. This applies to me also.
It’s based on where your shoulder seam sits not the neckline - so it would be drooping too far down your shoulders.
Either from a muslin, or you can measure yourself and compare with the printed pattern. Usually I need to do it on big 4 patterns only.
A narrow shoulder adjustment is needed when the sleeve/shoulder seam hang off the end of your shoulder. If you are noticing that the neckline is too big, then grading from a smaller size at the neckline to the larger size in the armscye is the way to fix that. I have an old video that shows that technique here: ua-cam.com/video/0iIPbOKbAS0/v-deo.html
@@TomKatStitchery Thank you 😊
Whitney, this is my first encounter with a narrow shoulder adjustment. So I have to watch this several times to get it. You did a great job in explaining it. I'm a little slow in trying to understand it with the yolk because I'm trying to do it on a top that's just a front and back piece with set in sleeves.❤
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!! I have a muslin of a pattern that has a front yoke (deer and doe Arielle) , but did not have any clue of how to do this adjustment! Now I can retake this project after a year. Thanks you for your valuable help 🙂
yay! I'm so glad this was helpful!
Great tutorial, thanks very much. I'll save this one to look back on when I need it 👍👏😻
Oh good!
Thank you
❤️❤️❤️
Hi Witney, I also don’t know how to know when you need a narrow shoulder adjustment. Thanks for explaining this. I liked this pattern too.
If the end of your shoulder seam hangs off the end of your shoulder (and it's not a drop shoulder garment), then you would need this adjustment.
How wonderful, i often have time fiddle with my shoulders, this fix is much better 💕
Oh good!
Thanks,Whitney!
My pleasure!
Great tutorial. Thanks. Can you please make one on how to adjust the sleeve for us with a forward shoulder? You always explain things so well.
I'll have to do a tutorial on the forward shoulder. Stay tuned!
@@TomKatStitchery Thank you, Thank you
I certainly need this but I’ll probably have to watch it a few times for it to sink in.
Oh good!
Excellent video - so well explained, thank you
Oh good!
Preserving the armscye is a different way to adjust the shoulder….I usually need 1/2” to 1” wide shoulder adjustment, my shoulders are the widest part of me! Going to try this the next time.
Great! You would just rotate it to a point outside the shoulder point instead of inside.
🇨🇦😃 I have this problem so thank you for the info
Oh good!
Thankyou for a great tutorial! Do you have any tutorials for adjusting for a round back?
I don't, but I can definitely do one!
Thank you for this tutorial Whitney. I always need to make a narrow shoulder adjustment to my patterns and really struggled with the Aria pattern as the yoke comes over the shoulder (similar to this pattern). With your method whereby you also raise under the arm at the side seam, does this mean the sleeve requires no adjustment? This would be awesome if this is the case. Kind regards from Julie
No sleeve adjustment needed as the armsyce hasn’t changed, just moved!
Thank you Jessie 😊
Jessie is correct! The sleeve stays the same!
Thank you dear Whitney. I will be trying this next time. 😊
Could you please do a tut on rounded shoulder adjustment?? My bodice always ends up being shorter in the middle back. I also have wide shoulders. BTW your content is great 👌
I'm so glad you're enjoying the channel! I can definitely do a rounded shoulder adjustment!
Thank you! This is so clear and easy to understand. I've been struggling with doing a wide shoulder adjustment on the Rhapsody. Is it essentially the same thing except pivoting the pieces in the opposite direction?
Yes. You just need to place your shoulder point outside the original point instead of inside it!
I think this will work better for me than slash and spread to decrease the shoulder width. I'm doing Cadence and the sleeves hang off my shoulders an inch. I have already done a FBA and distorted the armscye somewhat. Do you recommend doing the narrow shoulder adjustment before or after the FBA? I can always go back the original pattern and do the shoulder first then the FBA if that makes a difference. 38 high bust, 45 full bust size Large Cadence.
I would do the FBA first and then the narrow shoulder.
Hi Whitney
This is a great adjustment.
I have a sloped right shoulder. Can l do this method doing a sloped adjustment rather then a narrow adjustment.
I just made a dress and l adjusted the seam that joins the front and back yoke seam that sit forward on your shoulder in front. Is that wrong.
Thanks
Libby
Yes, you could use this and just lower the armscye instead of rotating it in or out. You will just have to redraw the shoulder seam, but it would just be a straight line from the neck point to the new shoulder point.
@@TomKatStitchery thank you
Hi Whitney. If a narrow shoulder and a forward shoulder adjustment is required, which would you recommend doing first?
I would do the forward shoulder first and then the narrow!
So, if I am understanding correctly, I would cut the pattern at the top seam 1/2 of the total adjustment and blend it into the bottom arm cycle. I have a large bust w/ narrow shoulders and can never seem to get my tops to fit well. It doesn’t seem like you are taking away from the bust area, which is good for me. Is this correct? And what if I have to make a full bust adjustment?
I would do the FBA first and then do this adjustment. You cut the pattern at the new shoulder point that you create when you move the traced armscye to the new point. So if you need a 1" narrow shoulder adjustment, you'll take the shoulder point in 1". Does that help or make sense?
Thank you! Will be saving this video, for sure. Now could you just do it with projector files…. 😊 😉 ❤️
😂 I need someone to come to my house and show me how to use these projectors!
@@TomKatStitchery they are absolutely amazing!!! Keeping in mind, that your computer and your electricity need to never have a malfunction. lol. But the adjustments are the things I don’t have figured out yet. So I tend to stick garments that can get by without them. But, I will take the time soon to get myself educated and experienced enough to accelerate the process because it is so worth using the projector!
@@Northandsouthsewing I am SO tempted by this. Am I wrong in understanding that you can alter patterns on software?
@@TomKatStitchery yes, you can, but that is the part I have not spent time to learn yet, someone is going to make a bundle when they get an App for doing that.
(Need a shoulder adjustment? Click here, then walks you through the steps. Yes, I can see it now! )
@@Northandsouthsewing that would be amazing!!!
How can you combine a narrow shoulder adjustment with a petite adjustment?
Do the petite adjustment first and then the narrow shoulder.
@@TomKatStitchery thank you! This will help my fitting a lot! You are a great source of wisdom and inspiration!
If you need to do a full bust and a narrow shoulder adjustment, does it matter which one is done first?
I like to start at the top and work my way down. I would do narrow shoulder and then the full bust!
Is there a way to fix the garment once it’s done already? The shoulder seam hangs low. Thanks
You can take the sleeve off and recut the armhole so that the seam sits on top of your shoulder and then reattach the sleeve. You might have more or less ease in the sleeve cap because the size of the armhole has now changed, but it's usually fine. Also, be aware that when you pull the shoulder seam up, it pulls the sleeve up as well making it a bit shorter.
@@TomKatStitchery Thank you 😊 I’m gonna give that a try! Happy holidays!
When you sew a t shirt and serge the armhole seam, how do you get the seam to lay down and not look bumpy? I have tried slashing the seam at the sleeve head and pressing, buy it still looks bumpy.😂
When you serge do you cut off the excess seam allowance? I don't sew my t-shirts on the machine, but just on the serger so my seam allowances are just the 1/4" (after trimming). I push my seam allowances towards the sleeve and have never had an issue with it being bumpy.
Can you need narrow shoulder and full bust adjustments? Or high bust narrowing?
Yes, you can. You can also need a narrow shoulder, but a broad back adjustment.
@@TomKatStitchery thank you for that information, I have been looking everywhere for an answer.
I have a question. When you sew a knit top and either have a round, scupp neckline. What do you use to stablize to neck to keep it from stretching?
Usually, if I'm using a neckband for the knit top, I don't have issues with necklines stretching out. However, if I'm using a neck binding I will use a 1/2" knit stay tape (SewKeyse has one I love) to keep that neckline stabilized.
I noticed that you pivoted the back and stopped at .5” at the base of the armscye whereas the front you stopped at 1” to match the 1” you removed from the shoulder. What am I missing? I expected you to treat the back in the same way. Thanks in advance for clarifying.
They’ve both been adjusted 1” at the shoulder seam. Because the back is less curved, it’s only come up 0.5” at the base of the armsyce when pivoted. You’re just matching marks, not measuring anything at the base until you’re truing up the side seam to match.
Jessie is correct. You are just concerned with the 1" at the shoulder (or whatever your adjustment is). The side seam is usually different because of the curve of the armscye. Splitting the difference so the side seams still match is the easiest way to deal with that discrepancy.
How do you know if you need a narrow shoulder adjustment?
If the shoulder point of the garment hangs off the end of your shoulder then you probably need a narrow shoulder adjustment.
Tom Cat, It appears that you've just shot this video "off the top of your head" without prior planning or organization. You need to prepare and organize your procedure; write a script; and create your demo-pattern-pieces before hand. You may know pattern drafting, but this video is a waste of the viewer's time and too much trouble to try to follow. Review and critique your productions before "broadcasting" them.
BOTTOM LINE: It appears that it's NOT "worth YOUR effort" to produce a coherent tutorial. Thus, why should it be worth mine to watch it? Think about it.
Thanks for the feedback.