How to choose the right sized stove
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2021
- As we know, we don't all fit into the same box. Every person, log, stove, chimney and house is different, so check out this video and make sure you're getting the right thing!
If you need any further information just drop me a comment - Розваги
Great Video
Really good video. Thank you for sharing it. Do you know if anyone manufactures a separate oven box that you can place on top of a stove for occasional use?
Neat idea, but no I don’t know of one. There’s no standard to stove size and shape, so it would be tricky to make. Also stoves with ovens tend to have the flue gases go around the oven and then out of the top, but a normal stove will have a big pipe on the top getting in the way of an oven.
Excellent info. Cheers.
We have a room 4X5 and have just purchased a Wiking Mini 2
We have the door open to the upstairs (which we are happy to do) but if burning the wood at a good healthy burn so we keep the glass cleaner etc the room heats up to 24oC and that’s at a outside temp of 7oC
Can we add a stove top fan to push air out of the room or burn a different kind of wood than the bagged kiln dried hardwood sold at the supermarket?
Or maybe a soapstone top on the top of the stove?
Any ideas?
Cheers
If you’re getting too much heat, then you can experiment with burning at lower temperatures. The key to this is get the stove to full temperature and then close it down. The glass will reveal to you if there is a problem, if the glass stays clean you’re getting it right, if the glass starts to blacken then more air is needed.
I think you’ve got the perfect fuel, so don’t change that, perhaps just stack pieces closer together. This will slow the burn down and you can then control the stove down to around 120°C or 250°F.
The fan is a good idea for pushing heat around, but it definitely won’t lower temperatures in the room.
We are limited to having a 125mm output fire due to flue passing through rafters. We would like to buy the widest fire possible but have been advised that wide fires would smoke if they have the narrow flue outlet. Please could you comment on this.
I’m not sure how I missed this comment, but either way. This could be correct. There are so many variables, but wider appliances don’t tend to draw as well. There are large output stoves with 5” flues are things like Heta Ambition stoves, Clock Stoves and Parkray Aspects (among others). But you always need to bear in mind that the larger the stove the more smoke it will produce, and the larger the door the easier it is for the smoke to have an easier path into the room rather than up the flue.
There are unfortunately no absolutes where draw is concerned, because it changes constantly. I’ve known 14kw stoves fitted on 125mm and work fine and equally 5kw small stoves can struggle in the wrong situation.
I realise I’m sort of skirting the issue, but there are too many variables, so every job needs to be approached differently.
Hello please can you help me decide what burner to go for.. ideally I wanted the Charnwood island 1 but it is a bit out of my price range so looking at allure 7 or arada think it’s a 7.. we have a smallish living room with open plan dining and kitchen also the conservatory is open too.. will be using it daily with most likely wood thanks.. also the stairs are open too.. Thankyou so much and your videos are amazing 🤩
Or the salt fire?
The Charnwood is overpriced, but I sort of like it. I think it’s worth looking at the Heta Ambition, the DG Ivar 8, perhaps a Burley too. I also think that your use would be achieveable with a Parkray Aspect, and if you like traditional I’d look at a Hergom, which I’ve not tested but have used.
Dear Gabriel, excellent video as always! I'm hoping you could give me some advice.
I'm hesitating between two stoves:
Dik Geurts Jannik Medium High (4-7KW) and
Dik Geurts Jannik Large High (4-8KW) (custom-made high version but same specs as the normal Jannik Large).
My home's characteristics:
-93m3 open kitchen/livingroom (the stove would be here)
-From here a door opens to a bedroom and a staircase leads upstairs to another bedroom and bathroom.
-It's a corner house with windows all around, the only neighbor is under the livingroom.
-The building was built in the 50's, few months ago we got cavity wall insulation (feel no difference), and in 1-2 year we will have HR ++ windows.
I'm leaning towards the larger stove as on paper its maximum performance is only 1 KW higher.
However, the large one is 38 kg (128kg) heavier and the dimensions are slightly bigger, therefore I was hoping it will retain the heat longer.
It's rare when a manufacturer gives min and max output as well and not sure how much I can trust it.
Does the open staircase and cornerhouse combo justify the slightly larger stove in your opinion? I obviously don't wanna get cooked out, but not sure how adjustable the Jannik is.
Thanks a lot in advance and have a great weekend!
I haven’t used the Jannik, but based on what I know about the appliance I would go for the larger one. The stove is very capable of running overnight, so heat retention shouldn’t be an issue. It is also more flexible with regard to different weathers and getting heat further around the house. The smaller model is potentially capable, but if I’m choosing I’d always pick comfortably competent.
@@TheTortoise cheers Gabriel! So you are confident that the large one can be also used in spring and autumn when the weather is around 10celsius outside?
I asked a few people who own the medium and I got very mixed answers.
I am hoping if I don't pack the large one with fuel I will still be able to burn cleanly and efficiently.
Have a great weekend!
@@tomgal7645 yes, I think the room size and your use warrants the bigger size. You don’t have to use stoves at full all the time, just like a car, you’re sometimes at 30 and sometimes at 70.
Hi, thanks for you videos, very informative. I would appreciate your advice, I have a ekol crystal 8kW installed in the reception by previous owners but looking into installing another stove into kitchen diner (4x4+4x2.8 with door to the conservatory). Its a more central position with respect to the geometry of the house, I would get more chance to heat extension which is coolest part of the house. I have installed wall fan with thermostat to transfer hot air from reception but I do not feel that 8kW is enough. Cool air is circulating and it takes a long time for diner to warm up. I was thinking 12kW with external air but my installer is adamant its too much. I will install cealing vents to kids bedrooms above and Im sure it will be fine in leaky Victorian end of terrace with no floor insulation. What are your thoughts please?
Sizing of stoves is designed to cover most people, most houses and normal use. You could well be an exception, because of your commitment to driving heat around your home.
I live in an old house with lots of leaks, I haven’t vented heat off to other rooms, but I have obviously used appliances of varying size. Big stoves are greedier with fuel, and the chances of getting things wrong is higher. If you were to go for a larger stove I would suggest that higher quality and efficiency stoves are important things to consider.
What will you be burning on the stove mostly, and how will it be used (all the time, evenings, occasionally)?
@@TheTortoise Thank you for replying, we are home afternoon and light the fire around 4-5pm until 10pm. Weekends - a bit earlier but as it gets colder we will burn wood all day I guess. I would go for multifuel as we like to put some smokeless coals to keep the fire going longer on colder days. I am not fixated on 12 kW but judging on ekol, I thought I need something larger and more efficient. Maybe good 8 with max output around 10 will be the sweet spot? I would like to let some of the heat through the ceiling to the rooms above, it seems logical - I will use adjustable vents (anemostats) to have control. Are there some stoves within this range( 8-10kW) you would recommend?
Given your use I would suggest sticking to wood. Multi-fuel stoves will burn wood very quickly and less efficiently which is why you need smokeless to keep it in. Good Woodburners that will run very efficiently and for long periods on wood are things like:
Heta Ambition 8
Parkray Aspect 8
Ekol Clarity 8 wood
If you were desperate to stick to multi-fuel then I would get something heavily engineered towards wood like:
Clock Blithfield 8
Heta Inspire 55
Woodwarm 8kw
Hope that’s helpful.
Hi Gabriel, im currently looking for a cook stove which would go into a older building in the garden which we are renovating. It has thick walls, a wooden uninsulated roof and windows and doors are yet to be decided on. Its about 2.8m by 7,5m and 2,5m in height, with possibly a thin wall dividing the space. Im struggling to find a stove becasue im not sure how powerfull it should be as not to only cook the food but also us ;). Could you please steer me on the correct path in turms of power output?
If it is going to remain very aged and leaky then I would look at something like a Dean Forge Baker 8, but if part of the renovation is new doors and windows and insulation then I would stick with a small 5kw:
EG Chilli Penguin I tested or similar.
Hi, do you get through more fuel with purchasing a higher KW as I just want to run a stove on a milder setting without roaring it all the time…I’m just looking for something I don’t have to keep topping too frequently.. not sure I’ve undersized or I’m just not using my stove effectively..
Old house with original floors and front door..can get really cold here.
Hope u can help.
Currently have a woodpecker WP5 that I was expecting more from as it does say it’s between 5-7kw😅
Thanks
Lastly as I forgot to mention is there anything that is above a woodpecker that can operate efficiently that would work better for me? Open plan lounge diner 8m x 3.3m
Thank you!
The Woodpecker is a fairly basic entry level stove. It sounds like you want something a little more serious, and unless the room dictates differently I may well stick to a similarly sized stove, but focus on things that are capable of running more seriously. Using a stove for prolonged periods will allow the heat time to push further around so larger outputs may not be the right answer. Also like larger engines they will tend to either run very dirty or more greedily than a smaller/correctly sized stove.
It may be worth looking at things like:
Clock Blithfield 5
Heta Ambition 5
DG Ivar 5
Jotul 602
Parkray Aspect
These will have a jump in price, but will also have a jump in controllability and burn time, which in your case is quite key.
Hope that helps.
Hiya (and Happy New year !) I've been watching a lot of your videos as about to invest in a new stove (currently have a 2kw gas fire in the lounge that really gives Nothing by way of heat !). I have just watched this video and seem to be a bit stuck. Our lounge (where we want to fit a stove) is 4.6x7.8x2.4m so gives around 6kw as standard. But it's a proper old house and has two sets of French doors- one set to outside and another onto a conservatory. On the other two walls there is a pretty sizeable window and a door to the rest of the house....so looks like I'd need around 9kw output. a bit worried a 9kw Stove might mean too hot to sit opposite though ! (stove will be about 2m ish from the sofa...). I have been looking at the Parkray Aspect 7 as a starter as love the viewing size for the flames. However I see there are also 5kw stoves that can give around 9kw max (like the clock review you did). So my question is for this OLD drafty house (that i want to try and heat throughout and use most of the time) do i get something like the "Clock 5kw" that can cover up to that output ? do i get the Parkray Aspect 7 - would it be too hot / or even hot enough ? hope you dont mind the question and happy to share any more info to help. places i have reached out to all give conflicting info :(
You definitely want to go bigger. I would strongly suggest going over the 5kw mark and going for a proper 8kw stove, which will therefore have some flexibility. In terms of the radiant blast from a stove, you needn’t worry at all. You’re planning to use the stove fairly seriously, so this more gradual heating of the space will avoid the need for blasting the stove (particularly when the room is in use). This will mean that you can keep the stove at a more manageable temperature (similar to driving a car at 56mph), this will mean that not only will this keep the stove at optimum efficiency it will also:
Save fuel
Burn for longer on 1 load
Increase longevity of consumable parts
And like with a car generally be the best it can be.
@@TheTortoise star and very much appreciated for replying :) I'll start researching what 8kw Stoves there are and that you have hopefully reviewed (the Dik Geurts Ivar 8 looks good and seems well rated by you....) All the very best again. i will keep you posted !
Hiya ! so been doing a fair bit more research and now seem to be focused on the ECosy+ Panoramic9 single door wood burning stove (going to be pretty seriously using it as i work from home). I notice there doesn't seem to be any reviews of it online other than the two door version and the stove world themselves. Is this something you might have on the cards to do ? Also still swithering on multi fuel version or not.....choices choices !!
Given your use you want to think carefully about what you plan to burn. If you want to focus on coal based fuel then obviously you’ll need the “multi” version, but otherwise definitely stick to wood.
Testing one of these would be interesting for sure, so I’m definitely open to it.
I know I already know the answer to this question but gonna ask anyway.
Just bought a used immaculate stovax brunell 3 CB.
The owner told me it was the 2 CB which is 6 kw.
Upon getting it home 4 hours drive I realised it was the 3 CB never thought to measure it and the previous owner gave me the measurements which she clearly got from their site thinking it was the 2 CB.
Anyway I now have a stove that is too powerful for my room as it is a 7 kw stove and not a 6 kw which was probably a little too big for my room as my room is 42 cubic metres.
Also much bigger body and will be tight going into the opening with only clearance of couple inches to the block work.
Hate having to sell it on as it is a beautiful stove.
Great info in all your videos btw.
What a shame. Yes cast iron stoves aren’t a fan of being squeezed into fireplaces. The output is obviously way over the top, but the bigger issue is probably the lack of space around the castings, as it will definitely shorten their life.
@@TheTortoise thanks so much for getting back to me 👍
That's good to know and good information for when selecting my next stove.
The videos ye put together are a great help for anyone looking to purchase a stove as they are to the point and cover all the things to watch out for👍👍
Thanks a lot!
Glad to hear they’re of use!
I`m just curious if the numbers you arrive at are nominal or maximum stove output?
Typically nominal, but unfortunately outputs on stoves have become a little in-reliable as manufacturers try to keep larger stoves below or as close to 5kw as possible.
Hi Gabriel
We have binged on your many videos over this past weekend as we are still struggling to make a definitive decision! We are open plan downstairs, and ideally want to carry warmth through but feel sitting opposite a larger stove in the main would be too uncomfortable. Our thoughts so far, having taken on board your recommendations, are the Heta 45 and 55, Woodford Lowry and Hunter series, although everyone you review gives us another curveball. We particularly love the aesthetics of the Heta, larger glass frontage, although functionality plays a massive part too, previously had a gas fire, so all new to us!...is there much difference between the Heta 45 and 55 other than cost? Any thoughts would be gratefully received. Thanks Caz
A few questions so I can give you some useful info:
How big is the main room and how does it lead on to other areas?
I assume you’re burning wood?
Will you use the stove just for evenings or more seriously?
Is your place well insulated?
@The Tortoise Hi Gabriel
Thanks for getting back so quickly!
So, the main sitting area is approx 18 x12 feet then this leads by open entrance into open plan dining area 20 x 9 feet then through to the kitchen. Can actually walk a full circle! Hubby works partly from home, so stove won't just be lit at night. Currently we have radiators but not well insulated.. Thanks
@@carolbailey1737 the 55 is the right stove if you have an air vent, but you could look at the 45 to avoid an air vent. The way to heat other spaces is not by getting a bigger stove, but keeping it going for longer periods, so the 45 isn’t a disaster, but I would enjoy the added potential of the 55.
The Recoheat is also a product that may suit you.
Overall the Inspire range is (of the ones mentioned) the best suited to very serious use, and the fuel economy should also pay you back the added cost of the stove over time.
@The Tortoise
Many Thanks Gabriel, advice much appreciated and also just to mention, absolutely love your channel and the fact that you are willing to advise...
Hi there, I have a large room (dimensions 6.5x5x3m) and was recently sold a nevis 5 multi fuel stove with a nominal output of 5kw, I'm slightly concerned that the output is not going to be enough to heat the room even though I was assured it would. Can you supply me with any feedback on this stove as I can't find a maximum output anywhere online. Cheers
How old is the property?
If the house is older than 20 years then it is very unlikely that this stove could possibly heat that room on its own. Alternatively if the property is new build, then heating that area would be easily possible with your stove.
In an older and less efficient building you would need ideally an 8kw nominal output stove.
Thanks for your videos, I've been watching a lot of them and they're well produced and super helpful. At the moment I've got an inset multifuel stove (Esse 300 - 4.5kw). I was wondering how well inset burners perform compared to standalone in terms of effeciency? I mean half it is is buried in a chimney surround so I would imagine you'd lose a lot of heat and our living room doesn't get too hot which is what happens to other people I know with wood burners.
I'm thinking about a standalone wood burner (as opposed to inset multi) and have been watching your other reviews, but this would mean taking apart the chimney surround to make space which I quite like so hesitant to do.
I’ve got a series of videos coming out this month of me remodelling my fireplace to suit insets. I’ve also just reviewed my first inset and tested how they get heat out etc.
They can work well, but there is a certain amount of heat retained within the fireplace. You don’t necessarily lose that heat, it just heats the breast and comes into the house more slowly (I expect my neighbour gets some heat too😆).
You could knock out your fireplace and fit a freestanding stove and you will be able to get a bigger stove and more heat (and having a wood burner will be much more effective and economic to run), but the cost of doing all that work will be significant, so it has to be a decision about more than saving money, because the cost of doing it would probably only be gained back when you actually sold your house (although selling in the current climate might not be a good example for this 😬).
@@TheTortoise Thanks for your detailed reply, I appreciate it. I've just subscribed to your channel to see the videos on the inset burners. Which for me is saying something as I very rarely subscribe!
I'm not too concerned about the work involved to knock out the fireplace as I could do a lot of it myself. It's that we have a lovely stone surround which the builder says would need to be taken apart to do the work and I'd like to keep it. One big motivation is that with the inset burner we have at the moment there is no way to line the flue so we're using the original chimney flue (the stone surround sticks about about 300mm from the chimney breast and is above the flue pipe connection on the stove). The multi burner we have is designed for this, so in some ways it's no problem. It draws well (we were warned it might not), but we have very little control as there is only a primary air inlet under the stove and no way to dampen it (being an inset). So it burns hot and quick. With an attached risk of flue problems/chimney fire down the line.
Hence binge watching your videos to be informed and to find out about the available options ;-)
@@olliec1319 thanks for the sub, feel free to ask a question when the first inset review comes out. I’ve got another I set on it’s way to me this week.
Morning Gabriel thank you for your prompt reply to my question regarding choice of stove. I’ve hit a stumbling block because I was looking to buy the Heta Inspire 45 but after measuring the area I’ve got to work with it’s going to be a bit tight. I’m so disappointed. May I call on your advice again please. These are the measurements of the chamber. H 800 x W 700 x D 360. Thank you in advance Fiona
Heta 45’s only require 50mm air gaps around them to non combustible surfaces, so that seems fine. If you would prefer bigger gaps on the sides then you could look at the Inspire 40 or the Ivar 5, but there is no regulation issue with the Inspire 45.
Ok that’s good news. Hopefully I can purchase one. Thank you so much for your help. Kind regards Fiona
So we own an old timber house, 115Sqm, leaky and almost no insulation. Roof height is low, 200-210cm. How many kw could we get away with to heat up? I am currently looking at Dovre 760WD or Jötul F400, but I feel that those might be too small.
Is it all 1 room?
Obviously a stove is a localised form of heat, so if you buy a stove for the whole house and put it in 1 room, all you’ll do is make the room horrendously hot.
@@TheTortoise I should have begun by saying this is an old timber house 1830-1850's with zero insulation. The only insulation is from saw-dust in the roof. The house has 3 rooms and a small bathroom down stairs, the our attic. Today we try to move air with fans, up to the attic. That helps some, but the open fireplace wont support much heat/efficiency. So, what we take from the fireplace room and sends up to the attic, makes the rooms cold on ground floor. Not sure how much sense this makes to you :)
@@tommieblomqvist4822 that’s great. Well the first thing to say is that rather than drowning the place in heat, the key thing is using a stove as much as possible. Time will heat the place rather than more kilowatts (imagine an AGA cooker, they heat large areas because they’re always on. What’s surprising is their output is only 1-2kw).
I would fit something very functional, and built for long burns and constant serious use. The following stoves will have a good output and will also be capable of burning wood all day and night:
Dean Forge Croft medium or large. These aren’t made anymore and are hard to find, but if you find a shop with old stock then these are the best of the best.
Clearview 650 or 750. This is a big beast and multi-fuel. It’s therefore less good with wood, but will burn coal based fuel so may be your preference depending on what you’re burning.
Parkray Aspect 14. This is great value and a bit more modern looking, which you may prefer. It’s also capable of running overnight with relative ease.
The Burley Wakerley is another powerful beast that is capable of very serious use. It will be a bit picky with fuel, requiring very dry fuel, but it’s performance and fuel economy will be exceptional.
The Dru 64 and 78 would also be worth a look. And the Dovre 760, but I would skip the Jotul given the need for long burn times.
I don’t think any of these are too small, as their outputs can be as much as 10 AGA cookers, but the key thing will be constant use, that will be the difference between getting heat around and not.
@@TheTortoise Big thanks! I am looking at the Dovre 760 WD, its called here. They look to be available still. I will look into the others you have listed. Why not the large Jötul, if i may ask? Are the so fuel- hungry?
@@tommieblomqvist4822 Jotul stoves of old were great at running overnight, but they did have some design changes a few years back when they complied with the Norwegian Standard. This forced their stoves to burn cleaner which was good, but they also burned faster and lacked control. I haven’t used that stove, but my suspicion is that in order to get such a big stove to comply, they will have allowed it to be a little greedy.
What do you think about Vesta stoves
I’m interested in them, but I couldn’t say that so far I’m hugely confident. They appear to be a very small outfit and from what I can see they certainly give the impression that their stoves are made in the UK (but despite that being implied, it is definitely not always the case). The main issue I find is getting hold of them. I want to be able to ring or E-mail someone and they come back to a potential buyer. However, sadly I have never once successfully contacted them so that’s not ideal. I’d still be really keen to try one, and perhaps visit them to see where and how they’re made, but so far I don’t have enough information to give a proper view.
Gabriel, please, we need your help. We renovated our new house, watched all your videos & were looking forward to install a wood burner like the Ivar 5.
Our problem is that our cement chimney is 5inch in diameter and I understand we cannot fit a 5inch liner in! Or at least that's what one installer said. Room is small, 53m³.
Any way we can make our dream come true?? Any wood burners with narrower exit flue?
It’s hugely rare to have a 5” chimney, but if that is the case then you would normally be able to connect a stove directly to it rather than lining it first.
5” is the smallest diameter for a flue on a woodburning appliance, so the only option in your case is to connect directly to it. Let me know if there are any issues with this as a plan, as generally where there is a will there is a way.
@@TheTortoise
Uh oh, it seems that we are hugely unfortunate...
So far one installer has refused and I assume it will be near impossible to find someone to issue a certificate for such installation (due to the smoke out the floor problem you mention)...
We'll keep trying but if you can think of a solution let us know! We're based in Oxford.
So there are 2 solutions as far as I can think. Firstly you have the chimney flailed out. This breaks out the liners and widens out the chimney. This isn’t always possible, but it’s worth contacting a few people, as I have been involved with several jobs where this was done. the guys I was working with at the time were hugely skilled and did an excellent job, but it’s far from your usual install.
The other idea is to connect to the chimney and if you can’t find a fitter to do this, I would have a builder do it and sign it off with a building inspector. This has disadvantages as I you know, but you have little choice.
Other than that it means abandoning the chimney and putting a flue system elsewhere. But I would try and get the chimney looked at by someone experienced at flailing out the pot liners, as this has been game changing for a few people I’ve worked with over the years. To be fair though, this tends to only work on old properties that have had their chimneys lined with some form of masonry liner. The job is to remove the masonry liner back to the original chimney and then re-line it. But for obvious reasons this needs an experienced hand.
@@TheTortoise Hi Gabriel, just wanted to say thank you for helping us achieve the dream of having a stove in our house. For the past 3 years, whenever we thought of buying a property the stove was literally the first thing in our minds and we were devastated when we saw the 125mm chimney.
We did manage to install an Ivar 5 with the help of a builder today! The chimney was indeed 200mm diameter but within its last 20cm it had some sort of mortar narrowing it to 125mm. We broke this and saw the huge hole above! (ps getting an experienced builder to do it & building control to test it also saved us 1k+!)
It's happily doing its first burn now, we're drinking a beer in your name :)
Just thinking about a log burner what is a good make to buy cheers Daz
There are loads of good makes, but they all have different pros and cons (bit like mercedes and JCB) both good, but very different.
Will the stove be burning wood or coal, and will it be for evenings and weekends, or more serious use?
@@TheTortoise thinking about coal and logs going to use most over winter as gas prices are high
Cheers
@@darrengunston6097 you will find a dramatic improvement in running costs if you commit to a particular fuel. Nowadays wood use has taken over and all the best new stoves are now focused on wood burning. Multi-fuel appliances sound flexible and more attractive for that reason, but the trade off is that your wood burning fuel economy disappears and you rely on coal to get any good efficiency and long burn time from your stove.
If however you plan to burn more than 25% coal then I would look at things like:
Clearview
Certain Morso appliances
Town and country
If you are wanting top of the range, and if you are wanting some a bit cheaper then things like Woodford, Hamlet and Saltfire are ideal
Cheers for info will have a look 👍
@@TheTortoise what would you recommend if I just used logs cheers for info aswell it's like choosing a car lol
I have a large farm house and I have had a large wood burning stove that for 20 years so I decided to put one in the other end of the house and I left the decision to the agent on the model, on completion I realise the new one would only take tiny logs and now when chopping wood I have to do a lot more work cutting wood so anyone thinking of installing one make sure you don’t end up with a Mickey Mouse size one , but I have to say a 5k dose give out a lot of heat
You can get wide 5kw stoves, but no point in burning loads of wood if you don’t need to. It’s a bit more work, but hopefully the fuel economy gives some benefits.
@@TheTortoise when I ordered the wood burner I told the agent that I have plenty of wood so that was no problem all I can say is I am pissed with sandpits for selling me a Mickey Mouse wood burner but the main wood burner has to be replaced this year and I won’t make the same mistake again
@@jonathandowding4389 what a nightmare. Well hopefully with the next stove you’ll have 1 for small pieces and a beast for the majority of large logs you’ve got.
Good luck with it.
I have gone from a eight to a five and it’s useless it takes small bits of wood and has to be filled constantly I didn’t realise it was a smaller size until fitted because they said it was a days work so I had to leave them to it…big and expensive mistake
Do your stoves come with a back boiler ?
Well I don’t sell stoves, but there are lots of stoves with boilers in them. How many radiators are you looking to heat?
@@TheTortoise Hot water runs into a coil that heats up the water in a hot water storage tank, that hot water supplies domestic hot water and underfloor heating.
Stoves are not always well suited to underfloor heating system as the are often pressurised and operate on lower temperatures. It’s possible to integrate them, but could cost. Do you have an open vented system or is it pressurised?
Hi Gabriel, Can you please confirm my stove choice is correct. I have a chamber 75cm wide 100cm high and 40cm deep and the room is 5x4x3 metres. Its a old house 1875 year to be exact and we are beside the sea with a large window facing the sea. Thinking about going for the Hunter Allure 7 as it has a bit more kw from 5 to 7kw. Just trying to follow your instruction to get it right. been watching all your videos last 2 months. :-) Thanks again
It’ll certainly fit, as long as there are no combustibles. But you may find that the Allure 5 looks slightly better due to its shape in relation to the fireplace. However everything else as you say would lean me more to the larger stove.
@@TheTortoise Thanks for the quick reply. Would you recommend any other stoves around the 5 to 7 kw range?
@@kennymac6376 you could look at:
Burley 5kw stoves
Heta Ambition
Aduro 16
Contura i5
Aga widescreen stoves
Mendip Woodland DC (like the Churchill I reviewed)
Charnwood Bay stove
Hope this gives you a spread of options, but bear in mind there’s nothing wrong with what you’re looking at.
These’l be more money, but are still 5kw stoves with relatively big outputs.
@@TheTortoise Hi Thanks I just ordered the Allure 7.
@@kennymac6376 very exciting, congratulations!
I hope you enjoy it!
Very interesting and informative. Shame about the back round musick which never adds to the message and entirely distracts from the message.
Very interesting and informative. Shame about your unpleasant rudeness which never adds to the message and entirely distracts from the message.
My home is as airtight as a colander that's been hit with a grenade.
I couldn’t help but laugh at this. Poor you, perhaps add another kilowatt to be on the safe size, but your money might be better spent on a builder 😁
Your dimension analysis is off. Heat is lost via surface area, not via volume. Calculate heat requirements based on surface area, not volume.
That isn’t actually correct.
You may calculate heat loss by taking into account surface area as well insulation and other variables. But this is about heating a particular volume of space. You may need to add extra power depending on how much potential heat loss you might suffer, but this calculation is specific to heating a volume of space, not how much is then potentially lost from it.
A room that is 5x5x2.4m in my calculation would typically need 4.2kw. However the room could be an octagon shape. If it had the same volume, it would have more surface area than a square room, it would therefore lose slightly more heat (assuming the insulation was the same), but the heating for that room would only be affected very slightly (to account for slightly more heat loss).
I hope that makes sense, but please come back to me if I have not understood something. Every day is a school day.
@@TheTortoiseThanks for the reply. Is there a downside to picking a larger woodstove firebox? I have a 2 cu.ft. firebox for a 2000sqft home. It's doing its job ok, but I have to run it aggressively. I'm considering upgrading to a bigger stove that can heat the house easily, without me having to run it at 150% capacity
@@eitantal726 normally larger stoves just mean a larger fuel bill, but in your case it may actually cost you less, given that you’re running your current stove so hard. Sounds wrong, but if you’ve ever seen the Top Gear episode where a V8 BMW and a Toyota Prius have to drive the same speed around the track with 1 litre of fuel, the big V8 actually uses way less fuel to achieve the same thing.
The only other issue I can think of that might be a potential factor is draw. Larger stoves can need more air and a larger flue, which may affect you depending on your situation.
@@TheTortoise Do you think the following is correct?
Running a hot stove might be bad for the stove, but good for efficiency. Heat has an easier time leaving the stove and entering the room, as higher gradient allows for more transfer. Untransferred heat will make its way out the chimney eventually. Hot stove gives you a bigger share of the pie. I have a thermometer on the stovetop, and I try to keep it on 400c. (Hotter than that, and I smell burnt oil)
@@eitantal726 yes. My issue with this way of running in my case is I’m often happy to compromise efficiency for a longer burn which enables me to slowly trickle heat around a property. The biggest weakness a stove has is that all the heat is localised to one place. Over firing can just make 1 room very hot, but a longer and slower burn can take the advantage of time and natural air movement through a property to spill around further away from the stove. If you’re always there to load it then running hot may be good, but I ideally want it to do its thing with as little disturbance to me as possible.