You bought the wrong one
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- Curious if you should buy a drill or driver? This is for you
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The electric clutch drill sounded like a clown car horn when the clutch engaged! 🤣
Don't give up, one day you will have to courage to throw the case away. It took me about 15 years to get the courage myself, but once you do, it is so liberating. Great video, thanks for sharing.
20+ years ago I drove a screw with an impact driver and have never gone back to driving screws with a drill.
Something that gets overlooked is 12v vs 18/20v.
When I'm working on something, I find myself reaching for my 12v tools more. They provide enough power for 80% of what I do and are notably lighter. For an average, weekend DIYer, I usually say to save a few dollars and get the 12v.
I think that’s a really good point I missed!
I don’t know: my 12 V drill weighs 1.1 kg, my 18 V drill 1.5 kg - a difference, but it’s not significant unless you use those things all day. But it is smaller, which can be a real advantage.
However, I quickly switched from 12 V to 18 V for the reason that is given in the video: I have the same weed whacker and a bunch of other tools that use the same batteries as the drill. Among them a handheld vacuum cleaner, which at 18 V just about sucks enough to make it useful.
I’m not unhappy that I’m set up for the 12 V system, but I could probably do without it.
Also depends very much on how the tool is designed. My Metabo 12V is WAY more powerful than my milwaukee that I bought because someone kept preaching about how great they are ._. TLDR dont buy em. Too expensive for what they provide
Came here to say the exact same thing. I have an M18 drill but have barely touched it since I bought the M12 Fuel drill/driver set. The M18 only comes out these days if I'm using a hole saw or a big masonry bit.
I will second that. 12v pocket drill/drivers are the best option for any DIYer or Pro. Cheaper, better ergonomics, plenty of power for mostly any type of project, and safer for the user and the project. I have corded drills and a press for the heavy duty stuff.
Bro, you’ve made it. Festool driver, under cabinet microwave and delivery meal plans! Well done man.
Instructional and informational, straight to the point and no dressed up bullshit. Fantastic Job!
13:04 This deserves more attention. It's where the combo really shines. Any project with multiple screws to sink will go way easier with the combo.
13:20 If the tool came in a bag, I use the bag. It keeps the tools clean and convenient, easy to carry to the job. The hard cases, though, are really useless. I don't know why. Just harder to put the tools back. I don't use them except one I repurposed to hold my pop rivets and tool.
The combo kits are marketed well during the holidays. You get a choice of one tool, one battery, or two tools, two batteries, at about the same price (for the homeowner brands).
I 100% agree with all of this. My only Add is screw choice.
I find standard cheap wood screws will snap with an impact driver almost always, whereas almost any other screw wont... My experience, I use my drill to screw in these screws.
Great advice on the hammer setting. I bought a set of drill/driver and it did not have a hammer setting. Three years later, I needed it so now I have three drills/drivers - but hey same batteries! Good video and thanks!
Next is the 1/2" drill for coring out apples. I mean, beams. Beams. Yes. Also best if you need to drill thru an autos frame. You'll burn up all your batteries with a 3/8th drill trying to get thru that shit.
I recommend going to habitat or goodwill for a solid old drill that comes with the extra side handle, just to keep as a dedicated mixer.
Grab an extra angle grinder or two while ur there. It's sooo much nicer, and faster, to just have dedicated grinders.
Do Not buy over powered drills or drivers, for 99% of my usages I use my M-12 drill and/or driver over my M-18 drill or driver. The M-12 are much lighter and smaller and lighter therefore easier to use.
The bags are now my husband's luggage. He can always spot them on the carousel. ❤❤❤
Bro I needed this like 5 years ago when I started buying my first tools 😭Either way still nice to learn some of this stuff in more detail now. Love you and your videos, keep em coming
You've convinced me. I'm buying a Impact/drill combo from Festool.
😂
I loaded one of those bags from the closet with all those tools I had outgrown (my first screwdriver set, old crescent wrench set etc) and surprised my son with it when we moved him into his first apartment. His roommates were jealous.
Your videos are great, straight to the point, no fluff, and humor inserted as needed LOL ALSO I appreciated that you kept working and showing what you were changing on the dial even while doing the food promo. I know content providers get income from ads that allow them to keep making videos for us viewers so I understand the interruptions here and there but i didn't even have to fast forward here!
I had a wasp nest under a board of my deck. Made the mistake of using the impact driver to take the screws off the deck board… got stung. lol. Love the impact driver for fast screwing. But the drill has its place. Avoiding the disturbance of wasps I learned is one of them.
I have multiples of both these tools. I’ve never taken the time to actually learn what each setting on the drill is. Awesome video!
I just started work at a construction company. I bought a drill... I needed a driver. I didn't know the difference
@13:00 The time saved by having a dedicated drill for piiot holes+counter sinking and a driver for the screws is an oft underrated luxury. Like having a dedicated palm router with a round over bit or having a GlueBot. 😂.
This is mostly about convenience, not time. Sometimes I end up having to switch a lot instead of being able to drill all the holes first, and while I don’t really care if it takes 30 minutes or 38, it’s really annoying,
In the uk, it's common to purchase a 2 pack drill and impact driver
Love this video thx! I worked at Lowe's for 4 years inthe tools dept. and I had the question of "which is the best" and that often related to I want to show off how much money I have not which one is actually the best. I often gave the advice of you are buying a battery system because they are not interchangable. Look at the complete tool line to see were you might expand into later. I love Dewalt (I got a discount at the store were I worked to buy my line of tools). But in my personal opinion the M18 line is the most complete line of tooling for DIY home-car-trade tools.
Drill or Driver? Wait til November most box stores will have the combo sets on discount for the holidays.
My decision-making was strictly practical when I chose the system:
1. Least annoying colour
2. Best line of tools for my needs
So I went with Makita, especially because some of their stuff comes in black. Also because their gardening tools are pretty good, but that was a lucky bonus.
I gotta say that I agree about 99% with your opinion or comments agout this. I do like staying with one battery. As for which one? I will go by dependability. Light weight? Not always. Price does play a part. Sometimes buying 2 tools separately is cheaper than a combo. But lately they have had some pretty good deals. Love your channel and attitude. Sarcasm ❤
I did tool repair for quite a while. (When asked what I did, I'd tell people "I make tools happy".) I have taken apart more impacts and drills from DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, Bosch, and the like than I could count.
In my experience, the very best are the old 18v DeWalt. (If you find one in a pawn shop, BUY IT! Get their 20v to 18v adaptor and use the new batteries.) It was very rare that they needed anything more than new brushes.
The second best are NEW Milwaukee. Their warranty for the internals is nuts. If the brain box died within five years, you can get it it replaced for free*. (Or that was the case while I was working there.)
But the Makita were the most fun to work on, you could tell they were designed to be easy to repair. And Bosch were masterpieces of overengineering.
So is there a clever way to replace the chuck on a Makita drill? I’ve tried the hex key method, which worked for me on a Bosch, but the Makita chuck wouldn’t come loose. Needless to say that the hex key method also makes me very nervous about potentially breaking stuff, anyway.
Great segment, thanks for your hard work. I actually still use my DeWalt bag that came with my combo kit years back.
Just to add to the confusion my most used Makitas have ended up being the pair of DDF083 which is a drill but with a quick change hex chuck as per the impact driver. On paper it's less power, less torque etc but upto 3" screws it is fine for power and with a set of hex drill bits to hand really versatile and fast.
Of course, when you need to drive 6" screws straight in the impact comes back out!
I have a few Makita corded tools and they are the best. I haven't converted to a battery system yet. And you really have to dedicate yourself to just one brand if you go the battery route.
I have a floor to ceiling shelf that is full of empty cases!!! I really do enjoy your channel. Timothy
I bought both, as I believe both have their place in the wood shop.
Loved the fact u demonstrated opening a bottle of sauce😂😂😂😂
Nice one!
You forgot to write "first" 😅
I actually use a drill putting in screw and an impact when I am doing heavy stuff like framing, I often use an impact to drill holes, in building furniture and cabinets an impact is not needed. But it all depends on what you are doing, I have bought a few of the Milwaukee 12v they go on sale for $100 for the set all the time you get both, and 2 batteries for $100 its worth it, The 18v are generally overkill when you are working in the shop, most of the Time I use the 18v when I am installing.
I really enjoyed the tech info in this video. I didn't like the factor ad spread into it.
I have 2 regular drill motors, 1 hammer version and 4 impact drivers. All Ryobi, and the oldest is 25years old!
I always use driver for construction screws > 20 cm
Just buy them both, wait for the combo to go on sale if you have to.
Dude. You just taught me that my makita has a lock for the bit...
Chuckled dryly at the bag bit. I sometimes use mine to carry the drill and driver, but it's not a useful size.
Re. drill sizes, check numbered or lettered bit sizes.
I'm pretty sure all drills are the same but I could be wrong. I know my DeWalt and most other big name brand drills, you don't just tighten the keyless chuck like that to lock. You tighten it down and then you actually turn it back the other direction and you'll feel it 'click'. That is how you actually lock it in. It's actually hard to unlock it so I usually never do this unless I'm using drill bits.
Good one John!
I prefer to use my drill to drive screws, it's more controllable, I dont annoy the SO and the neighbors and less cam out. Also, less wood splitting and overdriving. Impacts are for construction where the bosses have nightmares if you even think of pre drilling(and the KD-HT wood is WET nowadays), and for torquing bolts and lag bolts, structural screws etc.
I think your experience is true regarding control with the cheaper single speed impact drivers. I have the Milwaukee M12 impact driver shown in the video and find it to be very controllable, BUT yeah it costs more money. I got by with only a good quality drill for many years and treated myself the the impact driver and am very happy with it. A must? No, but it sure is nice.
@@sillytorque I preferred the Impact when I had a worse drill. All Makita. Upgraded the drill to a brushless and more powerful one. It has almost the same torque as the old impact, and it has a clutch. I also have a much more powerful Impact that can go + and - 150 Ft-Lbs with fine control, still prefer the drill. The noise when working inside is awful. Recently got a 24V Kobalt drill, it's better on paper, but the trigger is so awful compared to even a worn out 10 YO Makita with an Omron switch.
Ultimately you throw the bag or case away .. ouch that was just painful 😅
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
I've been at this for over 2 decades now and I have never, and I mean, EVER used the clutch on my drills once. It's turned to full torque and I control my speed at the trigger. I'm convinced the clutch is entirely superfluous.
Is there a situation I cant think of that necessitates it? Besides protecting from cam out with Philips head (which I don't use)?
electronic clutch is supposed to be used at second speed
The Sauce Community will be coming after you because of that comment... :P
Does that driver not have a torque adjustment? Most the the Dewalts have a three way clutch switch now…
Who is still using Philips in 2024? I only get these as fasteners in cheap lamps from overseas ... It's either Pozidriv or Torx in the home improvement stores here ...
How about both?
Literally someone just ask me that. My explanation was drills are for drilling and drivers are for driving screws 😂 I’ll send her this video now
Keyless chucks were the beginning of the end for America.
Oh yes, it sure was better fumbling around for a dinky little key, fiddling it onto the side of the chuck, torquing it down (sometimes in multiple spots), and then putting it down somewhere that you would hopefully not lose it 5 minutes later. Yessirreee, that sure was better than twisting something into place in less than a second. Maybe we should go back to shitty flathead screws while we're at it.
Perhaps the real beginning of the end for America was when a certain segment of its society became scared of change.
@@TAWei-hi6uv and here I thought it was comment sections added to the interwebs...
Okay but what do hip young kids mean when they say “clutch”?
No I didn't. I bought all the right ones.
Noice
The impact driver is like a sports car, while the drill is like a sturdy truck-each serves its purpose well!
SO an impact driver for screw works like the air ratchet wrench the guys at the tire shop use to tighten down my lug nuts so tight it takes a silver back gorilla to get loose, or apparently the same tool the stupid mechanics use to tighten the oil filter at oil change.
No, but yes.
Not a ratchet wrench, but yes the impact is the one the mechanics torque your oil pan to 3 Unga Dungas
Already getting the snarky “WeLl AcTuAlLy…” comments.
But great stuff as always John 👌
Entertaining…
Thanks
Some additional notes from a well experienced builder/woodworker.
Impact drivers suck at drilling.
Impact drivers are limited on their torque so for large diameter, long or lag bolts, the drill is superior.
Clutch settings aren’t good to use. You don’t know how tight the screw is. Using it in drill mode to set screws allows you to feel the exact torque being applied.
Learn to use the variable speed trigger and you will be way more proficient with the tool.
That's exactly what I'M saying! Changing the clutch up is for the yokels. Go on, get that dang new fandangle thing outta're, we don't need none no how.
The clutch on a drill is also very useful for drilling with spade bits or into metal which have a high chance of binding. That way the drill won't snap your wrist but engage the clutch. Obviously use clutch in a high setting for this.
I noticed in the footage of the electronic clutch it snaps your wrist quite a bit, which would be another downside besides looking to be more inconsistent.
Impact drivers are fun, and I might get one at some point, but I don’t really need the speed, I rarely work on stuff that requires driving a ton of screws. Other than that, an impact driver can save your day when you’re trying to loosen stubborn bolts, so there are reasons for having one, but this video is great at pointing out the drawbacks. Prrt-prrt, fun, yes, but do I need one? Not really.
Just an anecdote, I have never seen a 1/4” impact driver shatter a bit before, impact rated or not. I do my work assuming impact rated 1/4” bits are snake oil. I will update if I ever regret this.
same here, granted I mostly use a drill since I mostly use smaller fasteners and pre drill everything, and having a clutch is more important to me than having more power to drive the screw. but specialty bit for impact always seemed a bit unnecessary.
I have. The entire head of the bit broke off right at the first shoulder. Granted, it was a cheap Chinese made Torx bit that came with something that I bought. But it can happen. I do think it is very rare though.
@@WyldfireKeeper that was my experience too. Like you said, doesn’t happen often
My milwaukee m18 fuel impact driver snaps bits quite frequently
I've shattered plenty of them over the years, in fact I have noticed that the name brand ones seem to shatter more than the cheap ones for whatever reason.
I didn’t buy the wrong one because I bought both.
Since when did you become a tool testing/review channel? 😂
If you wish to generalize, please consider using the word "effort". Torque, force, pressure, EMF, tension, are all efforts. Their counterparts are called "flows" - velocity, angular velocity, volumetric flow rate, electrical current, etc. Each pair of (effort * flow) yields power. For instance, [force * velocity] is [power], [EMF 'voltage' * current] is [power], [torque * angular velocity] is [power], etc. even numerically correct if you use metric/ SI units. 2:45 - "well ackhtually" - you're welcome ;)
But u use the wrong bit for the first screw. U need a PZ2 not a PH2.
It absolutely amazes me how many people use PH bits on PZ wood screws, how many people don’t know the difference, and how many people don’t know that there *_is_* a difference. Neither pattern is great anyway, but using the wrong bit won’t help.
LPT - once you have a driver you are happy with, switch to Robertson bits. In the future, any time you question that decision, drive a few Philips screws. Once you finish cursing and swearing, you'll see why it was the right call.
I’ve never seen a fastener with a Robertson head in my whole life, and even if I could get them here in Europe, I don’t even want to know at what price.
Always makes me chuckle when I see people are still hawking bland, overpriced ready meals. A few years ago I threw out my microwave because I only used it once a month and it was taking up too much space. I’ll have the pasta sauce from the jar instead, thanks.
We also tossed out our toaster oven and replaced it with a smaller footprint 4-slice toaster. Just wasn't being used enough. The microwave still reheats home-cooked leftovers from my wife's great meals. Great lunches for the WFH lifestyle! => And I had bought a Dewalt 20V hammer/drill to install a dryer vent in the foundation for my DIY project. Paid for itself with that one project. Of course then I chose to adapt my 18V Dewalts to the 20V platform with an adapter. Nice video!
We cook mostly with basic ingredients. It's better, cheaper and fast.
Chicken, rice, make your curry and vegetables. Ready and eat.
@@LennartAangeenbrug Yes. I really enjoy simple dishes, and when I get bored and want something more refined or elaborate, plastic meals are not the answer.
The whole discussion of the clutch is pointless. Depending on the brand depending on the material the depth will vary even in the same material as you work it's a waste of time constantly trying to make adjustments to it. drills are for drilling holes drivers are for inserting screws it's that simple that's why they're usually sold in sets.
Change the title back. This one sucks.
WRONG The 2 tools are used as their name implies. There's a reason they make both. Just see how fast a driver can round out a screw head when trying to extract the screw that's been in for a while. Also see how long a small drill bit lasts in a driver,
Small bits aren’t impact rated, which he brought up, so not sure what your point is there.
And his video was all about driving bits and fasteners forward, not extracting them.
Not sure why you felt the need to make this comment, which doesn’t prove him wrong at all.
so much torque... can break a bone... c'm on...
and by the way, whatever is electronically controlled is much more reliable.
I almost don't use any more drills... I use a driver for 90% of my use. Just need a set of bits with a hex end.
anyway, as usual, good video.