Me too, although Louis XIV did leave his country in a mess after years of war against neighboring countries and neatly paved the way for Louis XVI to get his head cut off by a collection of irate influencers.
I think the Rolex trend has done a lot to put me off of collecting watches, especially expensive ones. The illusion of shortages causing the used market prices to spike insanely. I thought about buying a Rolex a couple years ago and now the watch I was considering went up 3k on the used market... it is ridiculous.
I own a Rolex I bought new many years ago. I love Rolex watches, but they are so overpriced, I will no longer purchase any more. Oris, Squale, Rado, and Hamilton all make great watches I am interested in now.
i went to a rolex ad. when they started bullsh!ting about the scarcity i smiled, left the shop and went across the street to an omega shop, where voila everything is available. I didnt feel less luxurious just because they have watches available in the store :)))
I really enjoyed this discussion. Always happy to see the Nerd Crew getting the recognition they deserve. VERY COOL! The part that I found most interesting was the vulgarity part. I can tell ya that I've been thinking a lot about this recently. As the economy continues in it's current trajectory, a lot more people are struggling financially and with that knowledge I've found a bit of guilt with wearing a watche that is $500 or $2000. I can't even imagine wearing one that was $100,000 or $500,000. As always thanks for the thought provoking video.
I had this exact same conversation about guilt and vulgarity with my grey market dealerwhile I was shopping for watches a month ago... Reconciling that I'm buying a $8,000 anachronistic toy while people struggle...
give the "extra money" you use for watches to charity and donate it to people in poverty if it really matters to you. Problem solved. If you prefer to buy a watch with that money, enjoy your watch without all these "worries". In the end it is a matter of choice ,you can give your "extra" money to charity and people in need or use it to buy items you like, find out which is your REAL priority and what is most important to you.
Absolutely agree on the "New Watch Fatigue" point. I'm also a MASSIVE car enthusiast and I think the parallels between watches and cars are razor thin. I'm BEYOND exhausted with the uninspired designs and engineering behind cars. Every new release from the high end companies is met with an eyeroll. In the higher end, they're all so fast they're indistinguishable from the others in their class. And in the looks department? From the outside they're all blending together, and the interiors are all so focused on minimalism and tech that they're sacrificing user involvement. Driver engagement has completely fallen the wayside! You used to be able to DRIVE your supercars. Now they're so fast you basically push a button and it has to drive itself, or you're going to swiftly be outpaced by your car.
@@veretindale5314 Mercedes' sedans all look the same. You can barely distinguish them from one another. Their crossovers have the same problem. Audi has the exact same issue on both fronts, and BMW suffers not only from the same lookalike syndrome, but they're all vomit inducing.
My 2022 Subaru BRZ, naturally aspirated, rear wheel drive manual sports car is a joy to drive everyday, a real drivers car. The near twin Toyota 86s are another great option.
I appreciate how candid and honest you were in this video, TGV. You didn't pull punches but at the same time you explained your thoughts in a tactful and classy manner. I too found myself becoming more drawn to vintage watches. Recently I got my hands on a Tudor Prince Oysterdate and I'm absolutely in love. There's a certain charm about vintage timepieces!
Good evening TGV, one of the problems I often see in modern watch designs is that the watches often are either to gaudi or that they want to please a large crowd. Older pieces are built for a purpose (diver, pilot watch), something I find quite appealing. Have a great evening! Best regards!
Fully agree! TGV, I too value the historicity of my timepieces, that's the main parameter in my small collection. Really new watches are a minority here, not that I don't like any of the new models, some of them I do like, but those are way over my possibilities. Meanwhile, I keep enjoying my '76 Longines, that keeps -2/+4 seconds a day. My birthyear watch is a Seiko H556 :) . Keep up the good work, I've bought my Seiko "Fifty five Fathoms" because of your review and very happy with it.
Easily one of my favorite episodes of the show. I remember I saved for a year for an Omega Speedmaster because some of my favorite Formula 1 drivers wore them. Now they all wear Ricard Mile watches and... Yeah, I'll stick with the old Omega! 😅
I think one of the biggest issues with new watches nowadays is there isn't actually any "real" use cases for them, in terms of actually being tools, which stifles actual innovation. Dive watches, pilot watches, chronographs, etc, those were all specifically made for divers, pilots, racecar drivers, and other professionals to ACTUALLY use a long time ago, so naturally all the companies were competing with one another to see who could one up each other and make the BEST versions of these watches, or straight up invent new styles of watches in the first place! Oh, we need to time cars racing by, let's invent the chronograph! Oh, I need to track how long I've been underwater, let's invent the dive watch! Oh, I need to go to space, better create the Moonwatch! Nowadays, everything uses computers, so watches are "outdated" and as a result, are sold as luxury "historical" pieces that are interesting BECAUSE they're out of date. Because of this, watch companies have almost no interest in actually innovating or creating anything too new, because the fact the mechanical watch is already this outdated technology, makes them something people want to buy. It's a paradox, it used to be a technology that would constantly be developed because it was something people actually relied on to help them with their jobs, but now it's an outdated technology that's just kept around because it's outdated. Just look at every new watch release lately, even with new movements and stuff, it's just reliability, power storage, or accuracy upgrades, or the addition of hacking and handwinding. Outside of Spring Drive and Accutron, there's no real improvements with watches. There's no "new" types of watches either being invented, we're decades in and we're still wearing dive watches, chronographs, pilots watches, and dress watches. I can't think of any new categories being invented in the space.
*This.* I'm a younger person, however, I still love the original purpose and intricate engineering that goes into mechanical watches. And for that reason, I had to gather a few pieces to have a collection that was/is meaningful to me and can be worn daily. Therefore, I have decided to pick up a few Sinn pieces over time as they are more of a modern batch of tool watches. The ones I snag have a tegimented finish (making them rather durable and more scratch proof) and aren't super shiny/sparkly like the watches from all of the current major brands. Oh, and importantly for me, they offer smaller sized pieces that fit my tiny ferret wrists lol! I happily wear my U50-T and 144 60th Anniversary Edition and will add my third and final Sinn piece to the collection this upcoming Autumn when my U50 S BS arrives. I'm super excited for it as I love the color scheme! =D
Innovation has just moved on. Innovation and new uses are being put into the (dreaded) Apple watch, while we, the watchers of this channel, are still trying to find the best made buggy whip. The day of the mechanical watch is fading. (Doesn't mean I don't love them...it's just the truth that we must eventually accept).
my only use case is timing my weekly swimming which is mandatory for work. the clock in our local swimming hall is digital and switches between temperatures of each pool and the time so it shows the time every 30 secs for about 3 seconds. in order to not stare to the side all the time i wear a cheap diver like Promaster NY0040 or Orient Mako. No digital will do as I would toally panic about pushing any kind of button in water. no matter how high the WR is stated.
I'm watching your channel for years, this is one of your best videos. I totally agree with you-this is why I gave my vintage seamaster to a watchmaker for a light restoration. You are not an influencer- you inspire us, you're not trying to be trendy like others you have your opinion and you support it effectively. Keep on-dare to say-my friend.
As of recently I have taken a break from staring at watches all the time. I have stopped looking on Ebay and Chrono24 late at night (weve all been there) and instead I have spent more time in the real world. cutting down your "watch time" to a minimum is a necessity to living a happier life, and it is also makes you less fatigued and grumpy. I recommend everyone who is into watches does the same, especially if you truly feel this way about the modern world and It's watches. Best regards, Jamie.
I am very much with you Jamie, I drastically cut down the ebay watch hunting. Great comment and recommendation, thank you for sharing that. Best regards, TGV
Great advice, Jamie. At times I feel like I’m almost too much into watches it’s becoming unhealthy. Always looking for the next piece; browsing the forums; watching UA-cam videos etc. it’s addictive! Seeking a Rolex piece in particular can also be frustrating & demoralising! Awaiting ‘the call’ (that may never happen) can really grate you down especially as a watch-lover & enthusiast when so many people seem to acquire them & flip! Anyway, I’m glad you’ve found a happier approach to this hobby :-) Cheers!
Amazing video TGV. You are that nostalgic guilty pleasure that I indulge in when it comes to watch content and I've indulged more hours than I'm happy to admit. You were pretty much one of the first, if not the first, watch channel that I started watching when I got into the hobby. You've recommended so many amazing pieces to me over the years. Thank you my friend. I've always loved watching you primarily because of your personality. So much class, so much respect for the hobby, and you're very open minded. I've always loved your personal stories, the historical context you provide when you review a piece, and I love your honest non sponsored opinions. I also love when you inject some of your personality into the video and recommend some random but useful gadget or product that you use in your everyday life (non sponsorship stuff of course) or give us some musicians or artists to check out! You are that watch nostalgic connection for me my friend. Maybe I'll run into you some day, until then take care and I'll see you on the next vid!
Found your channel a little bit ago and your approach to talking about watches, through the lenses of history and design, is absolutely fascinating and unendingly enjoyable! As to watches in the current era all I can say is as I approach my 40th birthday I’ve been trying to get off line more and live more slowly and with greater intention. As such a humble Seiko 5 SRPE has become a very good friend, pretty to look at, runs great and has a specific function that denies distraction into a hundred other things clamoring for energy I just don’t want to give. If analog watches carry on into the future, outside of luxury flexing, it’s with people who just want to live more in control of their own minds.
My advice to people who want to get into watches: JUST GET A SEIKO DIVER AND END IT ALL BEFORE IT OVERTAKES YOUR EVERYTHING. SKX, TURTLE, MONSTER.. YOU PICK IT.
🤣🤣🤣👏👏 Best advice ever! You might miss out on a ton of fun, but damn you will be so much more well off!!! Thank you Taylor, great comment. Best regards, TGV
This is just a beautiful video, TGV. I wish I could properly thank you for the pure joy and relaxation I get from watching your exquisitely crafted videos. Happy Spring!
TGV I think there is one major point that you are missing. Great video btw I loved all of your points. The main issue with watches today that you started to say was that they are status symbols. This is because we have a pocket watch in our pocket at all times. We do not need the watch to know the time anymore so most companies have noticed this (Rolex) and make the watches more eye-catching because they are used as jewelry pieces and not for a purpose. For example, if you actually professionally dive you are probably going to use a dive computer. Since watches are more jewelry purchases they have become more of a commodity to invest in. This has now spiraled out of control into what we have today. Since we made the wristwatch and non-computer clocks so replaceable it has led to what they make today.
Dear TGV, this video was greatly needed in my opinion. Your points are fantastic and you give exactly the right arguments to defend them. You really are one of the few people left with complete integrity. Please never change!
Very interesting premise. I think that a lot of brands have a vintage inspired collection for this reason. Think about the CK859 from Omega this year. A rare beauty to be honest.
Thanks for that TGV it is a very good thing to be reminded that what one does is important, how one does it is also important but why one does something is often more important than both, you shunted into motion a great thought train, thanks again.
All true! Most "new" watches are just a simple color change or an internal upgrade that you won't even notice but will cost you more. Grand Seiko has been killing it though. They just released a new GMT that is gorgeous. Hope all is well. Cheers!
@@watch_a_mod354 I agree with you for the most part but Tiffany blue dial should not be worth a premium over the same watch with a different color dial.
@@jeremycorrao it shouldn't. It has nothing to do with the dial but a way to overall increase the price of a model. With each release the prices are climbing. If people continue buying it won't stop
Another great video TGV! You are one of the very few channels/people that really have an in-depth understanding and appreciation of horology and its history. I have personally been on a journey backtracking over the past 10 years going from a Deepsea to a Seamaster and now to a Hamilton Khaki and now find that the Hamilton is all I need in a watch especially as it doesn’t attract unwanted attention and the often negative perceptions that often come when you wear an expensive watch. As the greatest music artists often say ‘less is often more’. Keep up the fantastic work and thank you for keeping it real! 👍
I bought this year 3 Seiko watches : a Seiko diver solar chronograph, the Antarctica Monster, and a Seiko 5 with a 7S26 movement - I love them all to death ... the first two are divers and they make me to dream of adventures and trips, but the Seiko 5 has that retro dial like '80 - '90, it reminds me of all the dreams of my youth, I bought it especially for that beautiful dial ...
I think a lot of watches try to have this “mass appeal” and end up appealing to nobody instead of making a watch for a type of wearer. I love micro brands for this reason…to get into the market they need to segment the market in ways that major brands who bank on their pop culture cache don’t.
Totally agree here. I hope this will never change.... more established microbrands get more and more "expensive" tho. I was lucky to pull the trigger on the first ZELOS Swordship titanium back then. Whats you preferred price range when it comes to microbrands? The MONTAs started less humble than others
This video is perfect. You said everything that bugs me about the current watch market in coherent manner which I've not been able to express myself. Thank you.
With all due and respect, I believe that as you get older you are more prone to prefer vintage watches and reminice of the past. I love modern watches for their technological supperiority and to think of what can be in the future, instead of the past. That is my take :) Great video as always.
i agree but would like to add that imo i do prefer "vintage designs" more than modern ones. Having a vintage design with a warranty and water resistance is the best solution. Vintage watches / vintage designs have soul whereas modern designs might eventually get boring. Ultimate exclusion: URWERK hehe
I can’t reminisce of the past that I never existed in! I prefer the styles from the 1920’s to the 1960’s yet was born in 73. It’s not all about nostalgia.
Just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate hearing your thoughts. I am a product designer and often I get sense that there is a desinger in you as well.
Size too! The early 2000s everything got huge. I love a lot of the designs but my personal taste makes me wish they were scaled down. But I think it is coming full circle and more brands are putting out smaller watches in the 36 to 40 mm range. I really have my eye on that new Glycine Combat Sub 39mm.
YESSSSSSS!!!!! So true on the first point and I do hope so. 36 is the new 39, 40 the new 42/44, well I hope! Great comment, thank you, Best regards, TGV
@@theurbangentry How could you guys be so selfish, thinking only about yourselves !? What do guys like me, (been a powerlifter for 20 years, 6’’2 and over 300 lbs) are supposed to wear then !? A 36 or a 39mm perhaps 🤣? Not every men are midgets or shaped like hobbits like you guys !!! You have to understand this !! On my 23,5 cm wrist, a 40 mm looks like a baby’s watch ! Nothing under 42/44mm suits me. What am I supposed to do then ? Forget about horology which is also my passion because you guys want to dictate watch sizes ? How stupid is that ? So please stop making such stupid comments ! It would be as stupid as saying everyone shoe size should be US 6,5 / EU 38 ! What would you do if your shoe size is a good US 13 like me ? Walk bare foot ? Just because some morons explained that nothing over 7 looks nice…? Use your brains for god’s sake !
I am at the age where I don't worry about impressing anyone! I wear what I like...larger watches. Plus, I have the wrist for them...my wrist measures in at 23 cm...basically 9 inches! But, I am 6'6"...
@@larryd4352 I would like to have a huge wrist but alas, I don't. I like a lot of big watches, but not the way they wear on me, I'm glad you can pull them off. I agree, everyone should wear what they like.
Got the combat sub in December and I really do think for what they go for online, it’s a tremendous value. The bracelets they use are ok and they look better on a tropic rubber or nato strap.
Wonderful presentation truly first class. You are not alone in your way of thinking, I too have placed a lot of emphasis on vintage watches and they alone are the ones that inspire my imagination most of all. This has had further influence on many other things that I enjoy.
i love vintage designs and sizes, but the efficacy of standardized modern movements is impressive (eta 2824, miyota 9015, seiko 6r35) as is guaranteed water resistance new from the factory instead of water resistance based off of seals and gaskets from 1968. And new photoluminescent markers are nice because original tritium or radium has long since decayed. so a new vintage inspired watch is a wonderful compromise for me. Especially if it falls in line with vintage sizing, i much prefer a 34-38mm watch to a contemporary 44mm beast, even if it is a new watch marketed as a women's watch.
Modern "cheap" watches in the sub $500 or $1,000 range offer more than any vintage watch can. I too like modern accuracy, lume, water resistance, materials, etc. etc. etc. but with more sedated, classic looks
What also struck me the most about vintage pieces is, that that are not pretentious at all, they are true to their character. They are not trying to be something they are not. The patina, the signs of wear, the old movement, tell such a story. Modern versions of the same timepieces rarely achieve the charme.
well, I actually love Grand Seiko and their creations of the 4 seasons, and even if they they do have vintage watches I still feel attracted to their modern and newer releases. (BUT in saying that I do feel as if the watch community is being gatekept (is that a word?) by the absurd prices and that modern watches have lost their meaning or purpose and is now just to make money for their businesses)
It's clear that watch manufacturers have played into the hype more and more in the post millennial era, especially the big names. A couple of them have even made the hype culture an integral part of their business model. I'm still a modern watch kind of a guy, but it has become more and more difficult to find pieces that appeal to me, as they all have either moved out of reach financially or are just scarce as hell. Also, I just noticed you're about to hit half a million subs, TGV. An early congrats is in order 🥂
Hit the nail on the head TGV, really fabulous video. I have my little eclectic collection spanning from my grandfathers Omega Geneve, right through to a couple of Casio GA2100’s. My day to day watch is an IWC Automatic Top Gun, simple yet classic with a modern twist. Though when I want to feel lucky I don my black dial Omega Seamaster Quartz. Your channel over the years has helped me value and devote wrist time to each watch in my collection.
As a borderline gen x/millenial I still find it odd to think everything used to be better. Like, comparing all modern movies to the few classics that have survived for generations is pointless. How many shit movies do you think came out in 1954, the same year as Seven Samurai? As far as watches go, I will likely never buy another vintage watch because I want something I don't have to worry about living with. That means showering, swimming, playing outside. They look incredible. The history is wonderful. The size much better suits me. But they're not compatible with my lifestyle.
@Skratch Rapture steam isn't going to get in a properly tested 200m watch. I shower, hot tub, and swim in anything 100m or more. Modern watches can easily handle it. Hell, before I knew what I was doing, I changed the time on my old SKX in the shower! No issues at all though I don't recommend ;)
I have to say that I enjoy all of your videos but this one I get. You did a fantastic job weaving the discussion between watches, modern and vintage, and the march of time that we must all follow. Well done :) I think the takeaway might be, enjoy your time :)
As I watch all of my “grail” watches slowly disappear over the horizon of overpriced, I battle back by just building my own watches. Its been an amazing journey. I have many watches, but there’s nothing quite like the ones I build for myself and friends.
This escalated quickly ! hehe. Must be indeed exciting:If it doesnt exist: build it yourself :) Modding and crafting dials is what i chose to cope with the watch prices out there.
It must be difficult to design a watch in an era where they have been replaced by smartphones and the like. The Apple Watch can be seen as an innovative and iconic piece of design, but it does seem that the market’s favourite pieces are often 50 years old.
Spot on, on both accounts! It is extremely difficult, anyone who succeeds deserves profound respect. As for favorite pieces, very true. Thank you Toby, Best regards, TGV
Well technically you're wrong there, the sales figures show that the market's favourite piece is also the Apple Watch, which is the highest selling watch in history. It is in every way an iconic watch. But it does not have the nostalgia and history that the small watch loving community looks for. It's basically like the pocket watch wielding gentry scoffing at the idea of a wrist watch when the tides turned. But here we are today, a point that is sure to come back in a 100 years with the nostalgia for the Apple Watch.
@@REDnBLACKnRED A smart watch does things the _Swiss Watch Mafia,_ and their unpaid army of simps, knows they can't achieve and don't even pretend to try and do. Show me a mechanical heart rate sensor and weather station. Now do it for $500 and add a stock ticker, calendar, stop watch, timer and a hundred other functions. Smart watches are so much above and beyond what mechanical watches are capable of that it's unfair to compare the two. My personal solution is to wear a fitness tracker on one wrist and a traditional watch on the other
Forgot how much I loved this channel . It’s been a while (just because I’m trying not to buy STUFF anymore - ie. watches) TGV , I agree on so many levels , especially when it comes to film ! It’s insane what happened to that industry .
The problem with modern watches is there doesn’t seem to be an original design. The best stuff recently has been the homage watches to designs from the 60s and 70s. Both of those decades has such fantastic original designs. I’ve become a fan of Farer which as a young brand uses great pops of color and interesting design language. Also, it seems like a ton of brands are just trying to copy the big dogs in some way. I cannot be the only one tired of Rolex homages and speaking of which, everyone seems to like the Tudor black bay which to me is just a high end Rolex knock off. Tudor I feel did design best when they had original designs like the fastrider or the north flag but those all don’t sell as well. Omega had two original designs in the 90s with the constellation and seamaster 300 and have been riding that and the Moonwatch. I can rant for a while…couldn’t agree with you more TGV.
Are you referring to like lorier watches? Because I’d argue the true innovation from modern era watches are micro brands. Yes they take style cues from the past but then they add on top. You can say it’s an homage to the 60s but the actual design itself is 2010s.
TGV, I've ordered a Seiko Dolce SACM 150 and its 34mm! My watch collection started with larger 42 mm watches, now I'm buying much smaller watches. Would love a video on the Dolce. It has a crazy super accurate quartz movement +/- 10 s a year
Dear TGV, around the 6:30 mark you show a Casio catalog. I have looked all over but apparently not in the right places. I am a huge Casio fan and would love to know where one could get such a book/catalog. Your videos and Casio's got me into watches. Many thanks, keep up the quality work ole chap.
Generally, I agree. There's a crudeness and vulgarity in many "high end" watches that would make Invicta recoil. I think this is a reflection of the changes in society that place a premium on the self and attracting attention to the self. By the way, I believe it was Louis xvi that got his head lopped off, not Louis xiv. 😁
Ironically I think Invicta was ahead of the game when it comes to over the top designs and decoration we looked at them and laughed or shook our heads but look at all the blinged out Rolex's now (I was watching videos reporting back on the latest releases at Watches and Wonders)? As well as other brands with their designs - Think Omega 'Moonswatch'. Think of the releases that are the same watch but with different dials or themes 'Seiko Antactica' a monster with the penguin feet on the dial or same watch different case material or different color combinations etc.
WOW, that is seriously cool to hear from such a young watch enthusiast. While I pity your plight, knowing there are such young watch enthusiasts out there fills me with hope! Thank you for your comment. Best regards, TGV P.s. May I suggest maybe a newer micro brand perhaps? Dan Henry, Hemel, Lorier, etc. Or a great brand with heritage doing new things like Squale, Fortis, Hanhart, etc.
I mean, what types of watches do you like and how much could you spend? They are weird and quirky but that is around the end of the Seiko kinetic line. Or a Bond-style Seamaster pre-ceramic.
So true TGV. My collection is rapidly moving to vintage. Love my Seiko king and Lord models more than I ever imagined I would. I’ve got a swatch I got on my birthday 40 years ago which I adore. Modern watches feel clinical in comparison.
Good video. Some good points made. I only began watch collecting in 2019, when I bought an Oris Aquis. Prior to that I wore the same black tactical watch for 12 years. Thanks to YT I learned so much about watches. After learning about the Seiko Sarb033 right here on this channel I picked one up in May 2020. I believe that watch was released in the 21st century. So there are a few that have come out in this century that are good. However, I strongly agree that there are way too many that are made for "flexing". Sadly, social media has really exacerbated this condition. As for smart watches, while I can appreciate their utility, they are not for me, either. And I would love to own a vintage watch, but like buying/owning a vintage car, you really have to know what you are doing.
As a watch enthusiast myself, I couldn’t agree more my friend. There was a time when having a winding watch was almost as exciting as having a car. Now it’s all about who has the more expensive toy, and how many people are jealous of you. Stay real and don’t give up. There are a few of us still around 😉
I've been a fan of the channel for quite some time, but I have to say that I'm confused by this video. Haven't the majority of Urban Gentry videos basically praised post-2000 watches? I feel like that's been the backbone of the channel, at least in terms of raw quantity. People have the right to change their opinions, of course, but if this video is sincere, I'm not sure where it leaves the channel.
Absolutely Aaron, in fact I address these points in this video quite clearly, especially the part about designing watches and trying to do something new with them if possible each time. Despite my preference and changing tastes, I still look at new watches with an open mind as I'm always willing to try new things. I review watches not just for myself to learn, but also pieces the audience may be interested in too, or are relevant to cover because of something of interest. That is also a reason why I try to introduce a brand not previously covered before, every month or so too. Enjoy and thank you for the support. Best regards, TGV
@@theurbangentry Thanks for the reply. I think I made the mistake of confusing your personal tastes with what the channel covers; in hindsight, the two things can obviously be different. Keep up the great work!
The biggest letdown for me as an affordable watch collector is that my favorite brand (Seiko) has moved up market. Gone were the days you could buy a brand new seiko 5 for less than 100 usd. If the new seiko 5s didnt double in price i would collect them all in a heartbeat.
I have two main issues with vintage watches, both quite significant to me…1) build quality, and hence reliability, is often crap, particularly on jangly bracelets which were often stamped rather than milled, and 2) they are so dainty they look effeminate…unless you have wrists like a nine year old girl….which would just be sad
TGV, this video was thought provoking and fun to watch. Your comments on watch fatigue in particular made sense. I’m about to travel to Eu from Australia for 6 months and included in this will be a trip to Bienne, Switzerland. I’m hoping that a deep dive into the history of watch creating will cure me of my particular fatigue… 🤞🏼
Yep a 20 min video posted 16 mins ago has comments . W.O.E. Are people watching on fast forward. Me I will take my time to fully enjoy TGV's wit and wisdom. Expect a comment in the next day or so. Richard
I have been following your excellent channel for ages. Today I decided to subscribe when you mentionned that you listen to Alessandro Barbero daily: so do I - he is the "urban gentry" of historians.
Wow.What a thoughtful video, possibly my favorite one ever.You can see the time and effort put into it.I love watching the clips thru the vintage TV border.As an aside I would state that all watches "just look better"in smaller mid century sizes . However there are still plenty of good modern watches out there that approximate the vintage classic look of the 20th century.As an example the Longines Conquest Heritage 35mm and the Seiko Sarb 033
Fair points all around. I'm personally undecided. For example, Grand Seiko makes a lot of what I'd call "new" watches, and I adore them. But a lot of newer, flashier things really do leave me cold. I guess it's situational.
All good points TGV and couldn't agree more as I find myself looking for those hidden gems of the 70's, 80's, 90's and even mid 2000's. I can't give you more credit for finding the "Vintage Inspired" brand of 2022 - Nivada Grenchen. The one brand so far that went back to their roots of late 60's and early 70's, for not only dial design but case dimensions as well. All hail the the 39mm Chronograph and Diver !
TGV congrats on such an interesting matter, no wonder my grail watch is the Omega Seamaster 1948, with that original nostalgia, original look, with modern technology, congrats for all of your success, abrazo desde Mexico !!!
Hi Gentry, I definitely get where you’re coming from with your take on modern watches and while I feel similarly I think there were a few things which you got close to, but didn’t touch on that tie the whole set of issues with modern watches together. Design Compromises/Skeletonization = Less Emphasis on Balanced + Timeless Watch Dial Designs. They either do a generic dial or do a skeleton one to avoid having to come up with an interesting take on a new dial. New Technology Over New Design Language. Not a new concept, but due to the ever increasing ability to create new/brand exclusive tech this will often become the selling point and will often use the lazy choice to skeletonize it and avoid also creating a new design language to differentiate the new watch. We do also see the inverse of this with a Design Language only watch which will utilize a very generic movement, however this often falls into a fringe market with microbrands and often doesn’t translate too much into the mass market or high-end choices. Status Symbol/Price Exclusion/Gap in Rich + Poor/Restricted Supply. This one is where the impact of the larger economy is being mirrored in the watch market. A shrinking middle class in most western nations and an ever increasing gap between the ultra-rich and the average person have meant most choices available to people are mass market or ultra high end boutique with a shrinking gap of those in between. Power of Nostalgia/Cherry-Picking Best from Modern History. Here we see the reductive inertia of Nostalgia as it stands in the way of riskier new design choices. In many ways the very feeling of Nostalgia is a form of cognitive dissonance. We know that in most comparisons the standard of living was worse in the past, yet also the things we remember are the most powerful and evocative from the past. Most new designs can’t stand up to the timeless ones of the past. Unfortunately this power makes us lose sight of the fact that we are comparing all of our favorite designs to whatever is available this year. If, as an example, we compared the watches made in 2022 against only those specifically from 1970 the picture in our head may change. Spoiled for Choice/Almost Too Many to Choose. Think about how dizzying it is to look at Seiko’s catalog. With so many choices it’s harder to find a watch you like + you’re less likely to find a boutique that might stock it. Scale of Multinational Mass Market Manufacturing/Modular Designs. This one has had a big impact on what is available to most people and in some ways is the hardest for the average consumer to notice as it is a convergence of a number of factors. The first is what it means to really have a globalized production and to design a product at that scale. You touched on some of this part in that it requires millions in R&D, setting up tooling, organizing supply chains, creating marketing for a product, and testing for quality control just to put something to market at that scale. To more easily achieve this companies have often begun using increasingly modular designs wherein using a similar platform (mov’t, case, etc) they can cut down on costs and make small changes to still provide options to customers (Seiko’s catalog is again a perfect example of this). Another common option is for companies to start consolidating brands under parent companies. This way they can use each brand’s design language to better differentiate their products while they have them share the modular designs and platforms. Typically this might water down the design language as compromises are made which can explain why we may prefer a vintage example from the same brand. Wristwatch Now a Choice vs Necessity. This ties into what you were talking about with fashion watches wherein the reason to where the watch may be style, trend, or even outfit driven as opposed to a functional/stylish way to incorporate a very necessary tool in your day to day life. Cheap Disposable Quartz Tech. Feeding off of my last point, very low cost, disposable quartz watches also changed the priorities around the watches we often own. With cheap options that get you most of the way to looking like the fancy thing you like, this has changed what the average person looks for in a watch, as most people don’t want to (and in many cases also can’t afford or justify) spend more for the extra bit of design or quality. Large Watch Trend/Watches That Lack Universal Appeal/Marmite Designs. This piggy backs on many of the previous points and is referring to how many of the higher end watches are catering to designs that intentionally will not appeal to everyone. Similar in effect to (and often hand in hand with) restrictive exclusivity based marketing, as an easy way to avoid an intense design process companies will often make an intentionally divisive or controversial choice creating a ‘marmite’ choice. Essentially they’re banking on the publicity from people’s strong reactions to drive people to it. If they leverage those strong reactions into their design language then they’ve tapped into a group of people who will likely be consistent repeat customers. Companies who made very large watches like Hublot, Panerai, Breitling, and IWC jump out as examples of this, though obviously not all of their watches are ‘marmite’ designs and while brands making these choices can be viewed cynically, sometimes these attributes have been natural evolutions of their brands. Fatalism’s Effect on Strength of Design and Statements/Conformist Cold War Culture + Traditionalism/Iconoclasts Really Stuck Out. This last point is a bit more of a statement on the cultural zeitgeist going on in the 20th century and the lasting mark the larger impact of historical events/situations made on the designs we remember. When we look back at the major design languages born out of the 20th century it’s not surprising we’re given a catalog of choices that are hard to equal today. In the US for example, when we think about the pressures people faced, from the Depression through to WW2, to the post war boom and the ever hanging cloud of nuclear annihilation, it’s no surprise that many people wanted to escape from those thoughts and search for joy in material gains and goods. As WW2 and the Cold War also led to increased access to technology and more widespread manufacturing people naturally were excited by the newness of these products. Coupled to this was the fact that many of these designs would have been based choices aimed at helping to make people comfortable with or put at ease by the new tech so that learning it wouldn’t be a barrier. This was also coupled with the very strong conservative and conformist tendencies being exhibited at the time as people’s attitudes tended to be suspicious of those who didn’t fit it. This often led to a counter-culture response where those who wanted to be unique often took a very iconoclastic approach to standing out when they did. Thus it’s not surprising that many of the bold and lasting designs which got made were strongly driven by either an intense need (fleigers, dive watches, etc) or an almost artist level desire to stand out no matter what (Royal Oaks, Nautilus, 222, etc). When you take all of that and then view through the lense of the high stakes at the time (the possibility that the world might end at any moment) and while also considering that the wristwatch market was still relatively new, it makes sense that companies might try more risky designs, or conversely that they might exert a bit more effort to help make a more risky watch work more likely to succeed as wristwatches in general might have been more risky propositions at the time. Anyway that was probably a wildly unnecessary reply to your video and hopefully it wasn’t an unduly rambling journey that is of some use to somebody.
I could totally see you wearing a Richard Melaay! 😂 Awesome quote from Marcus! I need to get that book you mention of his in almost every video. Thanks for video ! Exceptional as always!
This is so much more than just a video about watches. It is a thought provoking, meaningful insight into what we have become, examining and questioning the way we have changed as a society - subjective and somewhat somber, yes. But you, sir, have just given me some answers to questions that have been bothering me for quite some time now, but which I’m just not courageous enough to face. Thank you. More of that. Please.
TGV, It's always refreshing hearing an opinion like this. Other handedly, I find some of the points being made here needing of solid categorical organization & clarification: I find the problem of this really is the equivocation with ALL "post-millennial" watches being luxury watches, which is just not the case. If that is what you are trying to talk about primarily, which it seems it is, I would consider specifying that it is a "luxury" ordeal, as it seems you are primarily talking about the brands you list in the title, all very much luxury and aspirational manufacturers. Having said that, the overwhelming prices and lack of availability of a lot of these aspirational watches is well understood, in my opinion. Especially considering the antiquated mechanics of luxury pieces command a much smaller market share than that of the dreaded Government Tracking Devices(should be referred to as GTDs henceforth in your videos!). The only exception would be in the case of Rolex, where seemingly everyone is chomping at the bit to get one, and not being able to, despite plenty of demand to justify increased production. Once again, if you don't like how that is very much a "luxury" name brand problem(cause with the exception of the MoonSwatch, it pretty much is), then that should be made clear that it is not just all post-millennial watches, but post-millennial LUXURY watches. As you have said in many videos prior, you can't paint everyone with the same brush. I think my biggest gripe here is that even ignoring the segmentation of luxury vs more affordable pieces, I certainly wouldn't think that watches that you, Dan Henry, and many other smaller houses design and produce "suck". Instead, it is quite the opposite. Like it or not, when you or someone in recent years are designing a new watch, even when it's based largely on older designs, it is still a watch that is "Post Millennial". I feel that this reinforces my prior stipulations that nuance is required when talking about these types of things. I find it can be quite dangerous to go around and say that a large category of items simply "suck". In all actuality, it is never the case. Additionally, I feel that since the emergence of GTDs, traditional watches of course have lost traction that they once had. Again, where my problem lies is that saying that they're "dying" or "dead" is doing it an injustice. Your channel, as well as plenty of other outlets(many of which we may like or dislike to varying degrees), are evidence that the scene is alive as it has ever been. Lastly, I really do think that the watch journalism really has never existed in the capacity we all wished it has. Sure, maybe one or two individuals that go above and beyond have had some exclusives with watches once in a while, but I think I'm right in saying that the closest thing to this we have anymore is channels like you. You are carrying the torch! All of this being said, I must say that I have a ton of respect your willingness to disclose these opinions, as I feel many of the popular watch channels and outlets would be scared of negative ramifications after saying things like this. Because of their reliance on companies in the industry paying their bills, it is unlikely they would say something that doesn't tow their line. This is why I believe your work and formatting is superior than anyone else's in this space, despite whatever disagreements your audience may have with you. This integrity truly shows in your profound growth as a channel and individual over the years. Thanks for your content and contribution to my enjoyment in the hobby, A viewer from the opposite(correct) side of Pennsylvania, Max B
I wanted to buy a new watch. Coming from a Seiko Chronograph, I wanted to stay with the same brand. I almost bought a solar quarts. I found your channel and watched some of your video’s and eventualy made a better choice: The Seiko Presage SSA347J1. Automatic watch. Black dial. I really love it!!!
Top notch video from the 80s style intro music to the breakdown of how the watch industry has been the master of it's own demise last 20 years or so.. Some manufacturers have lost their soul in their products - revamping vintage classics to making glitzy showbiz models adorned by paid Hollywood actors or sportspeople. Nothing beats nostalgia in my view ...just hope those crappy smart phones don't become "desirable" and collectable when I'm old 😯
This is the first video, I've seen, you've mentioned two of my absolute favourite stoics. I should've figured you'd be well read on the matter. My respect for you just reached a new height!!!! I've been suffering for almost 5 years with a chronic illness and stoicism has been my ultimate guide to acceptance, though still being it a work in progress!!
I'm completely relaxed with my watch style because of your attitude towards watches... right now I'm wearing a Seiko SNK on the left and a Casio W 800 HM on the right… the best beater-beater watch (the watch you wear to spare your beloved beater watch). Greetings from Old Europe.
TGV, I have to say it is so great and refreshing to see some slightly more opinionated commentary from you. Your outlook is so well balanced and you articulate it so well. Loved this one, keep it up! Cheers
I think Longines struck a nice balance with their Heritage pieces, being a bit modern and also vintage inspired. But they're still vintage inspired off course. Not totally new designs. I have the titanium Avigation Bigeye and I just love it. It is the watch I got for my 40th birthday and my first more expensive one. Love this video!
What a great topic to cover TGV. Surly it comes down to one thing……….if you like it….you like it no matter if the piece is vintage or new, affordable or ultra high end. Great work again sir 🙌🏼
Great show. This one made me reflect on my collection quite a bit. I mainly wondered why I have more than one dive watch, chrono, field watch, or GShock. The surprising answer is that it seems to be more about form than function (i.e. I like the different looks rather than anything about materials or functions or movements). I mean, really, many of my watches have an NH35, 7s26, or 3226 -- the same insides with different outsides. Sure there are innovations, like Damasko switching up the hands for their chrono counter, or The Rangeman with its instant start stopwatch and barometer etc., or moon phase or GMT functions. Materials (sapphire, bronze) and specs (water resistance) can play a role too, of course, but for the most part, I'm loath to say, it's all about how they look (i.e. fashion!) with a sprinkling of extra functions thrown in. Good fun as always, TGV, thanks for the show!
Hi, I subscribed to your channel a looooooooooong time ago, when you had many many less subscribers, and somehow your channel got lost among other channels, anyways, it popped up this morning. A huge congratulations on how well the channel has grown, but I think more importantly, it has maintained great great content, ok so the videos are more polished, the audio is awesome, but you remain the same, fabulous content and oh so well presented. Thank you!
Great video and topic 👏 I also prefer vintage watches/ vintage inspired! I think you hit the nail on the head, they’re definitely nostalgic. BTW I need to try Wrist Candy straps, they look great for the $👍🏼
I believe you mistook your Louises there TGV. Louis XIV died of natural causes, unlike Louis XVI...
Indeed, dyslexia and Roman numerals do mix 😂😂😂😂
Thank you for pointing it out.
Best regards,
TGV
I was just about to say the same.
Me too, although Louis XIV did leave his country in a mess after years of war against neighboring countries and neatly paved the way for Louis XVI to get his head cut off by a collection of irate influencers.
This confusion would not have happened, if the name of the Sun King was spelled Louis XIIII, watch-dial conform :-)
And he was forever after known as Louis the XV1/2
I think the Rolex trend has done a lot to put me off of collecting watches, especially expensive ones. The illusion of shortages causing the used market prices to spike insanely. I thought about buying a Rolex a couple years ago and now the watch I was considering went up 3k on the used market... it is ridiculous.
Collecting watches doesn’t necessarily means collecting Rolex
I own a Rolex I bought new many years ago. I love Rolex watches, but they are so overpriced, I will no longer purchase any more. Oris, Squale, Rado, and Hamilton all make great watches I am interested in now.
i went to a rolex ad. when they started bullsh!ting about the scarcity i smiled, left the shop and went across the street to an omega shop, where voila everything is available. I didnt feel less luxurious just because they have watches available in the store :)))
I really enjoyed this discussion. Always happy to see the Nerd Crew getting the recognition they deserve. VERY COOL!
The part that I found most interesting was the vulgarity part. I can tell ya that I've been thinking a lot about this recently. As the economy continues in it's current trajectory, a lot more people are struggling financially and with that knowledge I've found a bit of guilt with wearing a watche that is $500 or $2000. I can't even imagine wearing one that was $100,000 or $500,000.
As always thanks for the thought provoking video.
Very interesting insight and one that I had not considered. Thanks for your comment.
I had this exact same conversation about guilt and vulgarity with my grey market dealerwhile I was shopping for watches a month ago... Reconciling that I'm buying a $8,000 anachronistic toy while people struggle...
give the "extra money" you use for watches to charity and donate it to people in poverty if it really matters to you. Problem solved. If you prefer to buy a watch with that money, enjoy your watch without all these "worries". In the end it is a matter of choice ,you can give your "extra" money to charity and people in need or use it to buy items you like, find out which is your REAL priority and what is most important to you.
Absolutely agree on the "New Watch Fatigue" point. I'm also a MASSIVE car enthusiast and I think the parallels between watches and cars are razor thin. I'm BEYOND exhausted with the uninspired designs and engineering behind cars. Every new release from the high end companies is met with an eyeroll. In the higher end, they're all so fast they're indistinguishable from the others in their class. And in the looks department? From the outside they're all blending together, and the interiors are all so focused on minimalism and tech that they're sacrificing user involvement. Driver engagement has completely fallen the wayside! You used to be able to DRIVE your supercars. Now they're so fast you basically push a button and it has to drive itself, or you're going to swiftly be outpaced by your car.
theres nothing wrong with new german car designs......except they all look like poorly copied mazdas
@@veretindale5314 Mercedes' sedans all look the same. You can barely distinguish them from one another. Their crossovers have the same problem. Audi has the exact same issue on both fronts, and BMW suffers not only from the same lookalike syndrome, but they're all vomit inducing.
My 2022 Subaru BRZ, naturally aspirated, rear wheel drive manual sports car is a joy to drive everyday, a real drivers car. The near twin Toyota 86s are another great option.
I was going to leave a comment, but you’ve said it all here!
"Exhausted" nice pun.
I appreciate how candid and honest you were in this video, TGV. You didn't pull punches but at the same time you explained your thoughts in a tactful and classy manner. I too found myself becoming more drawn to vintage watches. Recently I got my hands on a Tudor Prince Oysterdate and I'm absolutely in love. There's a certain charm about vintage timepieces!
Good evening TGV, one of the problems I often see in modern watch designs is that the watches often are either to gaudi or that they want to please a large crowd. Older pieces are built for a purpose (diver, pilot watch), something I find quite appealing. Have a great evening! Best regards!
Fully agree! TGV, I too value the historicity of my timepieces, that's the main parameter in my small collection. Really new watches are a minority here, not that I don't like any of the new models, some of them I do like, but those are way over my possibilities. Meanwhile, I keep enjoying my '76 Longines, that keeps -2/+4 seconds a day. My birthyear watch is a Seiko H556 :) . Keep up the good work, I've bought my Seiko "Fifty five Fathoms" because of your review and very happy with it.
Yes all the most popular modern steel sports watches aren’t purpose built. Come on Heiko.
Such a good point!
Modern watches are designed to please the market which is nouveau rich Russians and Chinese.
Easily one of my favorite episodes of the show. I remember I saved for a year for an Omega Speedmaster because some of my favorite Formula 1 drivers wore them. Now they all wear Ricard Mile watches and... Yeah, I'll stick with the old Omega! 😅
Which driver?
Also Leclerc just got mugged for his RM. Norris and Leclerc have now both had their RM's stolen.
RM sponsors some of the F1 teams so the drivers are compelled to wear/advertise that watch. Sad to hear about the muggings though.
@@user-go9tc3cw4b I think Lando got his back , horrible experience for anyone, he's in the lime light but he is still a effectively a child.
I think one of the biggest issues with new watches nowadays is there isn't actually any "real" use cases for them, in terms of actually being tools, which stifles actual innovation. Dive watches, pilot watches, chronographs, etc, those were all specifically made for divers, pilots, racecar drivers, and other professionals to ACTUALLY use a long time ago, so naturally all the companies were competing with one another to see who could one up each other and make the BEST versions of these watches, or straight up invent new styles of watches in the first place! Oh, we need to time cars racing by, let's invent the chronograph! Oh, I need to track how long I've been underwater, let's invent the dive watch! Oh, I need to go to space, better create the Moonwatch!
Nowadays, everything uses computers, so watches are "outdated" and as a result, are sold as luxury "historical" pieces that are interesting BECAUSE they're out of date. Because of this, watch companies have almost no interest in actually innovating or creating anything too new, because the fact the mechanical watch is already this outdated technology, makes them something people want to buy. It's a paradox, it used to be a technology that would constantly be developed because it was something people actually relied on to help them with their jobs, but now it's an outdated technology that's just kept around because it's outdated. Just look at every new watch release lately, even with new movements and stuff, it's just reliability, power storage, or accuracy upgrades, or the addition of hacking and handwinding. Outside of Spring Drive and Accutron, there's no real improvements with watches. There's no "new" types of watches either being invented, we're decades in and we're still wearing dive watches, chronographs, pilots watches, and dress watches. I can't think of any new categories being invented in the space.
*This.*
I'm a younger person, however, I still love the original purpose and intricate engineering that goes into mechanical watches. And for that reason, I had to gather a few pieces to have a collection that was/is meaningful to me and can be worn daily. Therefore, I have decided to pick up a few Sinn pieces over time as they are more of a modern batch of tool watches. The ones I snag have a tegimented finish (making them rather durable and more scratch proof) and aren't super shiny/sparkly like the watches from all of the current major brands. Oh, and importantly for me, they offer smaller sized pieces that fit my tiny ferret wrists lol!
I happily wear my U50-T and 144 60th Anniversary Edition and will add my third and final Sinn piece to the collection this upcoming Autumn when my U50 S BS arrives. I'm super excited for it as I love the color scheme! =D
Innovation has just moved on. Innovation and new uses are being put into the (dreaded) Apple watch, while we, the watchers of this channel, are still trying to find the best made buggy whip. The day of the mechanical watch is fading. (Doesn't mean I don't love them...it's just the truth that we must eventually accept).
Agree, all analog watch technically a "Fashion Watch" at this stage.
What a good fucking comment. Saving this.
my only use case is timing my weekly swimming which is mandatory for work. the clock in our local swimming hall is digital and switches between temperatures of each pool and the time so it shows the time every 30 secs for about 3 seconds. in order to not stare to the side all the time i wear a cheap diver like Promaster NY0040 or Orient Mako. No digital will do as I would toally panic about pushing any kind of button in water. no matter how high the WR is stated.
I'm watching your channel for years, this is one of your best videos. I totally agree with you-this is why I gave my vintage seamaster to a watchmaker for a light restoration. You are not an influencer- you inspire us, you're not trying to be trendy like others you have your opinion and you support it effectively. Keep on-dare to say-my friend.
As of recently I have taken a break from staring at watches all the time. I have stopped looking on Ebay and Chrono24 late at night (weve all been there) and instead I have spent more time in the real world. cutting down your "watch time" to a minimum is a necessity to living a happier life, and it is also makes you less fatigued and grumpy. I recommend everyone who is into watches does the same, especially if you truly feel this way about the modern world and It's watches.
Best regards, Jamie.
I am very much with you Jamie, I drastically cut down the ebay watch hunting.
Great comment and recommendation, thank you for sharing that.
Best regards,
TGV
Great advice, Jamie. At times I feel like I’m almost too much into watches it’s becoming unhealthy. Always looking for the next piece; browsing the forums; watching UA-cam videos etc. it’s addictive! Seeking a Rolex piece in particular can also be frustrating & demoralising! Awaiting ‘the call’ (that may never happen) can really grate you down especially as a watch-lover & enthusiast when so many people seem to acquire them & flip! Anyway, I’m glad you’ve found a happier approach to this hobby :-) Cheers!
Ah yes, the obsessive hunting 😅 we’ve all been there
You could say the same about cake, alcohol and hookers. Just indulge in your vice once a week and there is no problem. Just don’t tell the wife.
Especially if you cant afford one, but feel like you can get it "one day"
This really piques my interest! What a interesting topic, TGV! I’ll be watching with the family this evening. Thanks much, my friend!
Amazing video TGV. You are that nostalgic guilty pleasure that I indulge in when it comes to watch content and I've indulged more hours than I'm happy to admit. You were pretty much one of the first, if not the first, watch channel that I started watching when I got into the hobby. You've recommended so many amazing pieces to me over the years. Thank you my friend. I've always loved watching you primarily because of your personality. So much class, so much respect for the hobby, and you're very open minded. I've always loved your personal stories, the historical context you provide when you review a piece, and I love your honest non sponsored opinions. I also love when you inject some of your personality into the video and recommend some random but useful gadget or product that you use in your everyday life (non sponsorship stuff of course) or give us some musicians or artists to check out! You are that watch nostalgic connection for me my friend. Maybe I'll run into you some day, until then take care and I'll see you on the next vid!
Found your channel a little bit ago and your approach to talking about watches, through the lenses of history and design, is absolutely fascinating and unendingly enjoyable! As to watches in the current era all I can say is as I approach my 40th birthday I’ve been trying to get off line more and live more slowly and with greater intention. As such a humble Seiko 5 SRPE has become a very good friend, pretty to look at, runs great and has a specific function that denies distraction into a hundred other things clamoring for energy I just don’t want to give. If analog watches carry on into the future, outside of luxury flexing, it’s with people who just want to live more in control of their own minds.
My advice to people who want to get into watches: JUST GET A SEIKO DIVER AND END IT ALL BEFORE IT OVERTAKES YOUR EVERYTHING. SKX, TURTLE, MONSTER..
YOU PICK IT.
🤣🤣🤣👏👏 Best advice ever! You might miss out on a ton of fun, but damn you will be so much more well off!!!
Thank you Taylor, great comment.
Best regards,
TGV
Oh I did that 5 years ago, didn't work out as now have a dozen watches, That skx has cost me thousands haha....
I’m trying to stop but I can’t stop. The citizen ny0040 started it for me
Great advice but it doesn’t work hahahahha 😂😂
@@Colorado_Ronin I need a NY0040 really really bad
This is just a beautiful video, TGV. I wish I could properly thank you for the pure joy and relaxation I get from watching your exquisitely crafted videos. Happy Spring!
TGV I think there is one major point that you are missing. Great video btw I loved all of your points. The main issue with watches today that you started to say was that they are status symbols. This is because we have a pocket watch in our pocket at all times. We do not need the watch to know the time anymore so most companies have noticed this (Rolex) and make the watches more eye-catching because they are used as jewelry pieces and not for a purpose. For example, if you actually professionally dive you are probably going to use a dive computer. Since watches are more jewelry purchases they have become more of a commodity to invest in. This has now spiraled out of control into what we have today. Since we made the wristwatch and non-computer clocks so replaceable it has led to what they make today.
Dear TGV, this video was greatly needed in my opinion. Your points are fantastic and you give exactly the right arguments to defend them. You really are one of the few people left with complete integrity. Please never change!
Very interesting premise. I think that a lot of brands have a vintage inspired collection for this reason. Think about the CK859 from Omega this year. A rare beauty to be honest.
Thanks for that TGV it is a very good thing to be reminded that what one does is important, how one does it is also important but why one does something is often more important than both, you shunted into motion a great thought train, thanks again.
All true! Most "new" watches are just a simple color change or an internal upgrade that you won't even notice but will cost you more. Grand Seiko has been killing it though. They just released a new GMT that is gorgeous. Hope all is well. Cheers!
But isnt a movement upgrade on an already great watch a good thing? If the upgrade justifies the price im totally fine
@@watch_a_mod354 I agree with you for the most part but Tiffany blue dial should not be worth a premium over the same watch with a different color dial.
@@jeremycorrao it shouldn't. It has nothing to do with the dial but a way to overall increase the price of a model. With each release the prices are climbing. If people continue buying it won't stop
Another great video TGV! You are one of the very few channels/people that really have an in-depth understanding and appreciation of horology and its history.
I have personally been on a journey backtracking over the past 10 years going from a Deepsea to a Seamaster and now to a Hamilton Khaki and now find that the Hamilton is all I need in a watch especially as it doesn’t attract unwanted attention and the often negative perceptions that often come when you wear an expensive watch.
As the greatest music artists often say ‘less is often more’.
Keep up the fantastic work and thank you for keeping it real! 👍
I bought this year 3 Seiko watches : a Seiko diver solar chronograph, the Antarctica Monster, and a Seiko 5 with a 7S26 movement - I love them all to death ... the first two are divers and they make me to dream of adventures and trips, but the Seiko 5 has that retro dial like '80 - '90, it reminds me of all the dreams of my youth, I bought it especially for that beautiful dial ...
500k around the corner TGV,i remember this page with 50k,long and amazing journey,congratulations brother,1 million soon!
I think a lot of watches try to have this “mass appeal” and end up appealing to nobody instead of making a watch for a type of wearer. I love micro brands for this reason…to get into the market they need to segment the market in ways that major brands who bank on their pop culture cache don’t.
Totally agree here. I hope this will never change.... more established microbrands get more and more "expensive" tho. I was lucky to pull the trigger on the first ZELOS Swordship titanium back then. Whats you preferred price range when it comes to microbrands? The MONTAs started less humble than others
This video is perfect. You said everything that bugs me about the current watch market in coherent manner which I've not been able to express myself. Thank you.
The Gentry doesn't gather to see the latest, but the greatest.
This video is a masterpiece. Well said, and an insightful commentary on many subjects of which I wasn't fully in-tune with until now!
TGV, I must tell you that it was brilliant for you to find the Socrates quote. I very much enjoyed your video.
With all due and respect, I believe that as you get older you are more prone to prefer vintage watches and reminice of the past. I love modern watches for their technological supperiority and to think of what can be in the future, instead of the past. That is my take :) Great video as always.
i agree but would like to add that imo i do prefer "vintage designs" more than modern ones. Having a vintage design with a warranty and water resistance is the best solution. Vintage watches / vintage designs have soul whereas modern designs might eventually get boring. Ultimate exclusion: URWERK hehe
I can’t reminisce of the past that I never existed in! I prefer the styles from the 1920’s to the 1960’s yet was born in 73. It’s not all about nostalgia.
Just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate hearing your thoughts. I am a product designer and often I get sense that there is a desinger in you as well.
A great commentary on the current state of the industry. Rather than tool watches, the focus is on status and luxury.
Thank you. It's always worth it listening to your point of view over things.
Size too! The early 2000s everything got huge. I love a lot of the designs but my personal taste makes me wish they were scaled down. But I think it is coming full circle and more brands are putting out smaller watches in the 36 to 40 mm range. I really have my eye on that new Glycine Combat Sub 39mm.
YESSSSSSS!!!!! So true on the first point and I do hope so. 36 is the new 39, 40 the new 42/44, well I hope!
Great comment, thank you,
Best regards,
TGV
@@theurbangentry How could you guys be so selfish, thinking only about yourselves !?
What do guys like me, (been a powerlifter for 20 years, 6’’2 and over 300 lbs) are supposed to wear then !? A 36 or a 39mm perhaps 🤣?
Not every men are midgets or shaped like hobbits like you guys !!! You have to understand this !!
On my 23,5 cm wrist, a 40 mm looks like a baby’s watch ! Nothing under 42/44mm suits me. What am I supposed to do then ? Forget about horology which is also my passion because you guys want to dictate watch sizes ? How stupid is that ? So please stop making such stupid comments !
It would be as stupid as saying everyone shoe size should be US 6,5 / EU 38 ! What would you do if your shoe size is a good US 13 like me ? Walk bare foot ? Just because some morons explained that nothing over 7 looks nice…?
Use your brains for god’s sake !
I am at the age where I don't worry about impressing anyone! I wear what I like...larger watches. Plus, I have the wrist for them...my wrist measures in at 23 cm...basically 9 inches! But, I am 6'6"...
@@larryd4352 I would like to have a huge wrist but alas, I don't. I like a lot of big watches, but not the way they wear on me, I'm glad you can pull them off. I agree, everyone should wear what they like.
Got the combat sub in December and I really do think for what they go for online, it’s a tremendous value. The bracelets they use are ok and they look better on a tropic rubber or nato strap.
Wonderful presentation truly first class. You are not alone in your way of thinking, I too have placed a lot of emphasis on vintage watches and they alone are the ones that inspire my imagination most of all. This has had further influence on many other things that I enjoy.
i love vintage designs and sizes, but the efficacy of standardized modern movements is impressive (eta 2824, miyota 9015, seiko 6r35) as is guaranteed water resistance new from the factory instead of water resistance based off of seals and gaskets from 1968. And new photoluminescent markers are nice because original tritium or radium has long since decayed. so a new vintage inspired watch is a wonderful compromise for me. Especially if it falls in line with vintage sizing, i much prefer a 34-38mm watch to a contemporary 44mm beast, even if it is a new watch marketed as a women's watch.
Modern "cheap" watches in the sub $500 or $1,000 range offer more than any vintage watch can. I too like modern accuracy, lume, water resistance, materials, etc. etc. etc. but with more sedated, classic looks
Great video TGV. I always enjoy your videos! I thing you and I are quite kindred spirits. Very much old souls who prefer the old ways of doing things.
What also struck me the most about vintage pieces is, that that are not pretentious at all, they are true to their character. They are not trying to be something they are not. The patina, the signs of wear, the old movement, tell such a story. Modern versions of the same timepieces rarely achieve the charme.
well, I actually love Grand Seiko and their creations of the 4 seasons, and even if they they do have vintage watches I still feel attracted to their modern and newer releases. (BUT in saying that I do feel as if the watch community is being gatekept (is that a word?) by the absurd prices and that modern watches have lost their meaning or purpose and is now just to make money for their businesses)
Working late here in Blighty TGV. Another top video to get me through it! All the best 🦖
It's clear that watch manufacturers have played into the hype more and more in the post millennial era, especially the big names. A couple of them have even made the hype culture an integral part of their business model. I'm still a modern watch kind of a guy, but it has become more and more difficult to find pieces that appeal to me, as they all have either moved out of reach financially or are just scarce as hell.
Also, I just noticed you're about to hit half a million subs, TGV. An early congrats is in order 🥂
Hit the nail on the head TGV, really fabulous video.
I have my little eclectic collection spanning from my grandfathers Omega Geneve, right through to a couple of Casio GA2100’s.
My day to day watch is an IWC Automatic Top Gun, simple yet classic with a modern twist. Though when I want to feel lucky I don my black dial Omega Seamaster Quartz.
Your channel over the years has helped me value and devote wrist time to each watch in my collection.
As a borderline gen x/millenial I still find it odd to think everything used to be better. Like, comparing all modern movies to the few classics that have survived for generations is pointless. How many shit movies do you think came out in 1954, the same year as Seven Samurai? As far as watches go, I will likely never buy another vintage watch because I want something I don't have to worry about living with. That means showering, swimming, playing outside. They look incredible. The history is wonderful. The size much better suits me. But they're not compatible with my lifestyle.
@Skratch Rapture steam isn't going to get in a properly tested 200m watch. I shower, hot tub, and swim in anything 100m or more. Modern watches can easily handle it. Hell, before I knew what I was doing, I changed the time on my old SKX in the shower! No issues at all though I don't recommend ;)
I have to say that I enjoy all of your videos but this one I get. You did a fantastic job weaving the discussion between watches, modern and vintage, and the march of time that we must all follow. Well done :) I think the takeaway might be, enjoy your time :)
Me:* Looks at my modern-ish midsize Seamaster * "He didn't mean you, you've done nothing wrong."
👏👏👏👏
Indeed. Love a midsize Seamaster.
Thank you Kyle,
Best regards,
TGV
How did I miss a notification from my favourite channel. Great video, keep up the good work, thanks.
As I watch all of my “grail” watches slowly disappear over the horizon of overpriced, I battle back by just building my own watches. Its been an amazing journey. I have many watches, but there’s nothing quite like the ones I build for myself and friends.
This escalated quickly ! hehe. Must be indeed exciting:If it doesnt exist: build it yourself :) Modding and crafting dials is what i chose to cope with the watch prices out there.
@@watch_a_mod354 do you have a website? Id love to see what your designs look like.
@@romanglick Thanks for your interest. I got a humble instagram channel so far.
watch_a_mod
there is a link in my YT bio
Your visceral reaction 18:20 to Richard M**** is gold!
It must be difficult to design a watch in an era where they have been replaced by smartphones and the like. The Apple Watch can be seen as an innovative and iconic piece of design, but it does seem that the market’s favourite pieces are often 50 years old.
Spot on, on both accounts! It is extremely difficult, anyone who succeeds deserves profound respect.
As for favorite pieces, very true.
Thank you Toby,
Best regards,
TGV
Well technically you're wrong there, the sales figures show that the market's favourite piece is also the Apple Watch, which is the highest selling watch in history. It is in every way an iconic watch. But it does not have the nostalgia and history that the small watch loving community looks for. It's basically like the pocket watch wielding gentry scoffing at the idea of a wrist watch when the tides turned. But here we are today, a point that is sure to come back in a 100 years with the nostalgia for the Apple Watch.
@@REDnBLACKnRED A smart watch does things the _Swiss Watch Mafia,_ and their unpaid army of simps, knows they can't achieve and don't even pretend to try and do. Show me a mechanical heart rate sensor and weather station. Now do it for $500 and add a stock ticker, calendar, stop watch, timer and a hundred other functions. Smart watches are so much above and beyond what mechanical watches are capable of that it's unfair to compare the two.
My personal solution is to wear a fitness tracker on one wrist and a traditional watch on the other
Apple "watch" is a screen, not a watch
Forgot how much I loved this channel . It’s been a while (just because I’m trying not to buy STUFF anymore - ie. watches) TGV , I agree on so many levels , especially when it comes to film ! It’s insane what happened to that industry .
The problem with modern watches is there doesn’t seem to be an original design. The best stuff recently has been the homage watches to designs from the 60s and 70s. Both of those decades has such fantastic original designs. I’ve become a fan of Farer which as a young brand uses great pops of color and interesting design language. Also, it seems like a ton of brands are just trying to copy the big dogs in some way. I cannot be the only one tired of Rolex homages and speaking of which, everyone seems to like the Tudor black bay which to me is just a high end Rolex knock off. Tudor I feel did design best when they had original designs like the fastrider or the north flag but those all don’t sell as well. Omega had two original designs in the 90s with the constellation and seamaster 300 and have been riding that and the Moonwatch. I can rant for a while…couldn’t agree with you more TGV.
Are you referring to like lorier watches? Because I’d argue the true innovation from modern era watches are micro brands. Yes they take style cues from the past but then they add on top. You can say it’s an homage to the 60s but the actual design itself is 2010s.
true indeed... golden years 60s and 70s are the best
TGV, I've ordered a Seiko Dolce SACM 150 and its 34mm! My watch collection started with larger 42 mm watches, now I'm buying much smaller watches. Would love a video on the Dolce. It has a crazy super accurate quartz movement +/- 10 s a year
Dear TGV, around the 6:30 mark you show a Casio catalog. I have looked all over but apparently not in the right places. I am a huge Casio fan and would love to know where one could get such a book/catalog. Your videos and Casio's got me into watches. Many thanks, keep up the quality work ole chap.
Generally, I agree. There's a crudeness and vulgarity in many "high end" watches that would make Invicta recoil. I think this is a reflection of the changes in society that place a premium on the self and attracting attention to the self.
By the way, I believe it was Louis xvi that got his head lopped off, not Louis xiv. 😁
Ironically I think Invicta was ahead of the game when it comes to over the top designs and decoration we looked at them and laughed or shook our heads but look at all the blinged out Rolex's now (I was watching videos reporting back on the latest releases at Watches and Wonders)? As well as other brands with their designs - Think Omega 'Moonswatch'. Think of the releases that are the same watch but with different dials or themes 'Seiko Antactica' a monster with the penguin feet on the dial or same watch different case material or different color combinations etc.
Impressed with your viewpoints. I'll be watching more of your videos. Thanks.
I was born in 2002. It gets difficult to find a cool birth-year watch, other than Rolex..
WOW, that is seriously cool to hear from such a young watch enthusiast. While I pity your plight, knowing there are such young watch enthusiasts out there fills me with hope! Thank you for your comment.
Best regards,
TGV
P.s. May I suggest maybe a newer micro brand perhaps? Dan Henry, Hemel, Lorier, etc. Or a great brand with heritage doing new things like Squale, Fortis, Hanhart, etc.
I mean, what types of watches do you like and how much could you spend? They are weird and quirky but that is around the end of the Seiko kinetic line. Or a Bond-style Seamaster pre-ceramic.
I’m in the exact same boat. I ended up with an Omega Seamaster Automatic 120m. Highly recommend you check those out.
I'd go with an Omega Seamaster 300 GMT 2834.50.91 from 2002
Sorry, but what applies to watches also applies to people. New versions are female hive-minded products of the Borg.
Again TGV you are right on track. My 1969 Rolex Oyster Date to me is along with my Seamaster 120 the perfect watches. They are both timeless !
So true TGV. My collection is rapidly moving to vintage. Love my Seiko king and Lord models more than I ever imagined I would. I’ve got a swatch I got on my birthday 40 years ago which I adore. Modern watches feel clinical in comparison.
"Clinical", a great word for it. Spot on, thank you.
Best regards,
TGV
Good video. Some good points made. I only began watch collecting in 2019, when I bought an Oris Aquis. Prior to that I wore the same black tactical watch for 12 years. Thanks to YT I learned so much about watches. After learning about the Seiko Sarb033 right here on this channel I picked one up in May 2020. I believe that watch was released in the 21st century. So there are a few that have come out in this century that are good. However, I strongly agree that there are way too many that are made for "flexing". Sadly, social media has really exacerbated this condition. As for smart watches, while I can appreciate their utility, they are not for me, either. And I would love to own a vintage watch, but like buying/owning a vintage car, you really have to know what you are doing.
As a watch enthusiast myself, I couldn’t agree more my friend. There was a time when having a winding watch was almost as exciting as having a car. Now it’s all about who has the more expensive toy, and how many people are jealous of you. Stay real and don’t give up. There are a few of us still around 😉
🙋🏻♂️
I've been a fan of the channel for quite some time, but I have to say that I'm confused by this video. Haven't the majority of Urban Gentry videos basically praised post-2000 watches? I feel like that's been the backbone of the channel, at least in terms of raw quantity. People have the right to change their opinions, of course, but if this video is sincere, I'm not sure where it leaves the channel.
Absolutely Aaron, in fact I address these points in this video quite clearly, especially the part about designing watches and trying to do something new with them if possible each time. Despite my preference and changing tastes, I still look at new watches with an open mind as I'm always willing to try new things. I review watches not just for myself to learn, but also pieces the audience may be interested in too, or are relevant to cover because of something of interest. That is also a reason why I try to introduce a brand not previously covered before, every month or so too. Enjoy and thank you for the support.
Best regards,
TGV
@@theurbangentry Thanks for the reply. I think I made the mistake of confusing your personal tastes with what the channel covers; in hindsight, the two things can obviously be different. Keep up the great work!
Thanks TGV for telling it like it is. So refreshing to hear someone who doesn’t pander to the modern trends.
The biggest letdown for me as an affordable watch collector is that my favorite brand (Seiko) has moved up market. Gone were the days you could buy a brand new seiko 5 for less than 100 usd. If the new seiko 5s didnt double in price i would collect them all in a heartbeat.
Seiko 5s are still considered cheap
Great discussion bro enjoyed it!
I have two main issues with vintage watches, both quite significant to me…1) build quality, and hence reliability, is often crap, particularly on jangly bracelets which were often stamped rather than milled, and 2) they are so dainty they look effeminate…unless you have wrists like a nine year old girl….which would just be sad
TGV, this video was thought provoking and fun to watch. Your comments on watch fatigue in particular made sense. I’m about to travel to Eu from Australia for 6 months and included in this will be a trip to Bienne, Switzerland. I’m hoping that a deep dive into the history of watch creating will cure me of my particular fatigue… 🤞🏼
First
Damn you win the internet today
Yep a 20 min video posted 16 mins ago has comments . W.O.E. Are people watching on fast forward. Me I will take my time to fully enjoy TGV's wit and wisdom. Expect a comment in the next day or so. Richard
I have been following your excellent channel for ages. Today I decided to subscribe when you mentionned that you listen to Alessandro Barbero daily: so do I - he is the "urban gentry" of historians.
I enjoyed this video. And it's true, I am mostly attracted to older styles and am currently not looking to purchase another watch.
Wow.What a thoughtful video, possibly my favorite one ever.You can see the time and effort put into it.I love watching the clips thru the vintage TV border.As an aside I would state that all watches "just look better"in smaller mid century sizes . However there are still plenty of good modern watches out there that approximate the vintage classic look of the 20th century.As an example the Longines Conquest Heritage 35mm and the Seiko Sarb 033
Fair points all around. I'm personally undecided. For example, Grand Seiko makes a lot of what I'd call "new" watches, and I adore them. But a lot of newer, flashier things really do leave me cold. I guess it's situational.
All good points TGV and couldn't agree more as I find myself looking for those hidden gems of the 70's, 80's, 90's and even mid 2000's. I can't give you more credit for finding the "Vintage Inspired" brand of 2022 - Nivada Grenchen. The one brand so far that went back to their roots of late 60's and early 70's, for not only dial design but case dimensions as well. All hail the the 39mm Chronograph and Diver !
TGV congrats on such an interesting matter, no wonder my grail watch is the Omega Seamaster 1948, with that original nostalgia, original look, with modern technology, congrats for all of your success, abrazo desde Mexico !!!
Hi Gentry,
I definitely get where you’re coming from with your take on modern watches and while I feel similarly I think there were a few things which you got close to, but didn’t touch on that tie the whole set of issues with modern watches together.
Design Compromises/Skeletonization = Less Emphasis on Balanced + Timeless Watch Dial Designs. They either do a generic dial or do a skeleton one to avoid having to come up with an interesting take on a new dial.
New Technology Over New Design Language. Not a new concept, but due to the ever increasing ability to create new/brand exclusive tech this will often become the selling point and will often use the lazy choice to skeletonize it and avoid also creating a new design language to differentiate the new watch. We do also see the inverse of this with a Design Language only watch which will utilize a very generic movement, however this often falls into a fringe market with microbrands and often doesn’t translate too much into the mass market or high-end choices.
Status Symbol/Price Exclusion/Gap in Rich + Poor/Restricted Supply. This one is where the impact of the larger economy is being mirrored in the watch market. A shrinking middle class in most western nations and an ever increasing gap between the ultra-rich and the average person have meant most choices available to people are mass market or ultra high end boutique with a shrinking gap of those in between.
Power of Nostalgia/Cherry-Picking Best from Modern History. Here we see the reductive inertia of Nostalgia as it stands in the way of riskier new design choices. In many ways the very feeling of Nostalgia is a form of cognitive dissonance. We know that in most comparisons the standard of living was worse in the past, yet also the things we remember are the most powerful and evocative from the past. Most new designs can’t stand up to the timeless ones of the past. Unfortunately this power makes us lose sight of the fact that we are comparing all of our favorite designs to whatever is available this year. If, as an example, we compared the watches made in 2022 against only those specifically from 1970 the picture in our head may change.
Spoiled for Choice/Almost Too Many to Choose. Think about how dizzying it is to look at Seiko’s catalog. With so many choices it’s harder to find a watch you like + you’re less likely to find a boutique that might stock it.
Scale of Multinational Mass Market Manufacturing/Modular Designs. This one has had a big impact on what is available to most people and in some ways is the hardest for the average consumer to notice as it is a convergence of a number of factors. The first is what it means to really have a globalized production and to design a product at that scale. You touched on some of this part in that it requires millions in R&D, setting up tooling, organizing supply chains, creating marketing for a product, and testing for quality control just to put something to market at that scale. To more easily achieve this companies have often begun using increasingly modular designs wherein using a similar platform (mov’t, case, etc) they can cut down on costs and make small changes to still provide options to customers (Seiko’s catalog is again a perfect example of this). Another common option is for companies to start consolidating brands under parent companies. This way they can use each brand’s design language to better differentiate their products while they have them share the modular designs and platforms. Typically this might water down the design language as compromises are made which can explain why we may prefer a vintage example from the same brand.
Wristwatch Now a Choice vs Necessity. This ties into what you were talking about with fashion watches wherein the reason to where the watch may be style, trend, or even outfit driven as opposed to a functional/stylish way to incorporate a very necessary tool in your day to day life.
Cheap Disposable Quartz Tech. Feeding off of my last point, very low cost, disposable quartz watches also changed the priorities around the watches we often own. With cheap options that get you most of the way to looking like the fancy thing you like, this has changed what the average person looks for in a watch, as most people don’t want to (and in many cases also can’t afford or justify) spend more for the extra bit of design or quality.
Large Watch Trend/Watches That Lack Universal Appeal/Marmite Designs. This piggy backs on many of the previous points and is referring to how many of the higher end watches are catering to designs that intentionally will not appeal to everyone. Similar in effect to (and often hand in hand with) restrictive exclusivity based marketing, as an easy way to avoid an intense design process companies will often make an intentionally divisive or controversial choice creating a ‘marmite’ choice. Essentially they’re banking on the publicity from people’s strong reactions to drive people to it. If they leverage those strong reactions into their design language then they’ve tapped into a group of people who will likely be consistent repeat customers. Companies who made very large watches like Hublot, Panerai, Breitling, and IWC jump out as examples of this, though obviously not all of their watches are ‘marmite’ designs and while brands making these choices can be viewed cynically, sometimes these attributes have been natural evolutions of their brands.
Fatalism’s Effect on Strength of Design and Statements/Conformist Cold War Culture + Traditionalism/Iconoclasts Really Stuck Out. This last point is a bit more of a statement on the cultural zeitgeist going on in the 20th century and the lasting mark the larger impact of historical events/situations made on the designs we remember. When we look back at the major design languages born out of the 20th century it’s not surprising we’re given a catalog of choices that are hard to equal today. In the US for example, when we think about the pressures people faced, from the Depression through to WW2, to the post war boom and the ever hanging cloud of nuclear annihilation, it’s no surprise that many people wanted to escape from those thoughts and search for joy in material gains and goods. As WW2 and the Cold War also led to increased access to technology and more widespread manufacturing people naturally were excited by the newness of these products. Coupled to this was the fact that many of these designs would have been based choices aimed at helping to make people comfortable with or put at ease by the new tech so that learning it wouldn’t be a barrier. This was also coupled with the very strong conservative and conformist tendencies being exhibited at the time as people’s attitudes tended to be suspicious of those who didn’t fit it. This often led to a counter-culture response where those who wanted to be unique often took a very iconoclastic approach to standing out when they did. Thus it’s not surprising that many of the bold and lasting designs which got made were strongly driven by either an intense need (fleigers, dive watches, etc) or an almost artist level desire to stand out no matter what (Royal Oaks, Nautilus, 222, etc). When you take all of that and then view through the lense of the high stakes at the time (the possibility that the world might end at any moment) and while also considering that the wristwatch market was still relatively new, it makes sense that companies might try more risky designs, or conversely that they might exert a bit more effort to help make a more risky watch work more likely to succeed as wristwatches in general might have been more risky propositions at the time.
Anyway that was probably a wildly unnecessary reply to your video and hopefully it wasn’t an unduly rambling journey that is of some use to somebody.
What a great video! I believe it's true when we say "they don't make them, like they use to".
Good discussion TGV! Loved the film ‘Mandy’btw. Modern, different, far out!
I could totally see you wearing a Richard Melaay! 😂
Awesome quote from Marcus! I need to get that book you mention of his in almost every video.
Thanks for video ! Exceptional as always!
Great video TVG, and always a pleasure to see Stephen Toast delivering lines as only he can!
This is so much more than just a video about watches. It is a thought provoking, meaningful insight into what we have become, examining and questioning the way we have changed as a society - subjective and somewhat somber, yes. But you, sir, have just given me some answers to questions that have been bothering me for quite some time now, but which I’m just not courageous enough to face. Thank you. More of that. Please.
Dude I love your videos. Been a fan of your work (and Hugo's of course) since you started out. Keep it up :)
TGV,
It's always refreshing hearing an opinion like this. Other handedly, I find some of the points being made here needing of solid categorical organization & clarification:
I find the problem of this really is the equivocation with ALL "post-millennial" watches being luxury watches, which is just not the case. If that is what you are trying to talk about primarily, which it seems it is, I would consider specifying that it is a "luxury" ordeal, as it seems you are primarily talking about the brands you list in the title, all very much luxury and aspirational manufacturers. Having said that, the overwhelming prices and lack of availability of a lot of these aspirational watches is well understood, in my opinion. Especially considering the antiquated mechanics of luxury pieces command a much smaller market share than that of the dreaded Government Tracking Devices(should be referred to as GTDs henceforth in your videos!). The only exception would be in the case of Rolex, where seemingly everyone is chomping at the bit to get one, and not being able to, despite plenty of demand to justify increased production. Once again, if you don't like how that is very much a "luxury" name brand problem(cause with the exception of the MoonSwatch, it pretty much is), then that should be made clear that it is not just all post-millennial watches, but post-millennial LUXURY watches. As you have said in many videos prior, you can't paint everyone with the same brush.
I think my biggest gripe here is that even ignoring the segmentation of luxury vs more affordable pieces, I certainly wouldn't think that watches that you, Dan Henry, and many other smaller houses design and produce "suck". Instead, it is quite the opposite. Like it or not, when you or someone in recent years are designing a new watch, even when it's based largely on older designs, it is still a watch that is "Post Millennial". I feel that this reinforces my prior stipulations that nuance is required when talking about these types of things. I find it can be quite dangerous to go around and say that a large category of items simply "suck". In all actuality, it is never the case.
Additionally, I feel that since the emergence of GTDs, traditional watches of course have lost traction that they once had. Again, where my problem lies is that saying that they're "dying" or "dead" is doing it an injustice. Your channel, as well as plenty of other outlets(many of which we may like or dislike to varying degrees), are evidence that the scene is alive as it has ever been.
Lastly, I really do think that the watch journalism really has never existed in the capacity we all wished it has. Sure, maybe one or two individuals that go above and beyond have had some exclusives with watches once in a while, but I think I'm right in saying that the closest thing to this we have anymore is channels like you. You are carrying the torch!
All of this being said, I must say that I have a ton of respect your willingness to disclose these opinions, as I feel many of the popular watch channels and outlets would be scared of negative ramifications after saying things like this. Because of their reliance on companies in the industry paying their bills, it is unlikely they would say something that doesn't tow their line. This is why I believe your work and formatting is superior than anyone else's in this space, despite whatever disagreements your audience may have with you. This integrity truly shows in your profound growth as a channel and individual over the years.
Thanks for your content and contribution to my enjoyment in the hobby,
A viewer from the opposite(correct) side of Pennsylvania,
Max B
Great video and you’ve nailed the issues. I just realised the last 4 watches I’ve bought are 15+ years old.
I wanted to buy a new watch. Coming from a Seiko Chronograph, I wanted to stay with the same brand. I almost bought a solar quarts. I found your channel and watched some of your video’s and eventualy made a better choice: The Seiko Presage SSA347J1. Automatic watch. Black dial. I really love it!!!
You've got guts, guy. Probably the best video and observational perspective I've seen in quite some time. Keep it up!
Top notch video from the 80s style intro music to the breakdown of how the watch industry has been the master of it's own demise last 20 years or so.. Some manufacturers have lost their soul in their products - revamping vintage classics to making glitzy showbiz models adorned by paid Hollywood actors or sportspeople. Nothing beats nostalgia in my view ...just hope those crappy smart phones don't become "desirable" and collectable when I'm old 😯
Great topic with some meaningful food for thought about the correlation between our mortality and what we perceive as quality. Nailed it.
Thank you so much Dante, O&U!
Best regards,
TGV
This is the first video, I've seen, you've mentioned two of my absolute favourite stoics. I should've figured you'd be well read on the matter. My respect for you just reached a new height!!!!
I've been suffering for almost 5 years with a chronic illness and stoicism has been my ultimate guide to acceptance, though still being it a work in progress!!
I own a few new watches from leading brands, but when I saw the Predator film behind your Seiko Arnie, well enough said. 👍
Excited to watch this! Especially since you have my Seamaster in the thumbnail!
I'm completely relaxed with my watch style because of your attitude towards watches... right now I'm wearing a Seiko SNK on the left and a Casio W 800 HM on the right… the best beater-beater watch (the watch you wear to spare your beloved beater watch). Greetings from Old Europe.
TGV, I have to say it is so great and refreshing to see some slightly more opinionated commentary from you. Your outlook is so well balanced and you articulate it so well. Loved this one, keep it up! Cheers
Many thanks for your "rant". Eloquently presented and in line with my own thoughts.
Great video, this begs for a follow up to expand on the role of social media and flex culture on the watch world....
I like how you tie the b-roll to what you're saying so well.
Spot on discussion and reasons. Totally agree! Thank you TGV
I think Longines struck a nice balance with their Heritage pieces, being a bit modern and also vintage inspired. But they're still vintage inspired off course. Not totally new designs. I have the titanium Avigation Bigeye and I just love it. It is the watch I got for my 40th birthday and my first more expensive one. Love this video!
What a great topic to cover TGV.
Surly it comes down to one thing……….if you like it….you like it no matter if the piece is vintage or new, affordable or ultra high end.
Great work again sir 🙌🏼
T, as always some thought provoking stuff. Hope all is well. Best as always. Matthew
There he is!!! Hello hello old chap.
I hope all is well, sending a big man hug!
Grazie grande.
T.
Great show. This one made me reflect on my collection quite a bit. I mainly wondered why I have more than one dive watch, chrono, field watch, or GShock. The surprising answer is that it seems to be more about form than function (i.e. I like the different looks rather than anything about materials or functions or movements). I mean, really, many of my watches have an NH35, 7s26, or 3226 -- the same insides with different outsides. Sure there are innovations, like Damasko switching up the hands for their chrono counter, or The Rangeman with its instant start stopwatch and barometer etc., or moon phase or GMT functions. Materials (sapphire, bronze) and specs (water resistance) can play a role too, of course, but for the most part, I'm loath to say, it's all about how they look (i.e. fashion!) with a sprinkling of extra functions thrown in. Good fun as always, TGV, thanks for the show!
Hi, I subscribed to your channel a looooooooooong time ago, when you had many many less subscribers, and somehow your channel got lost among other channels, anyways, it popped up this morning. A huge congratulations on how well the channel has grown, but I think more importantly, it has maintained great great content, ok so the videos are more polished, the audio is awesome, but you remain the same, fabulous content and oh so well presented. Thank you!
Great video and topic 👏 I also prefer vintage watches/ vintage inspired! I think you hit the nail on the head, they’re definitely nostalgic. BTW I need to try Wrist Candy straps, they look great for the $👍🏼