Solid Slide Hammer Set.
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- Steve shows you the slide hammer puller kit he uses most in the shop. See all the attachments and how they’re used.
This set is from OTC; part number 7947 8 way set.
Amazon Affiliate link to the OTC slide hammer: amzn.to/3t8X06q
If you click the link, it supports the channel, but won’t cost you more.
To see all of the tools that I use and recommend, visit the Tool Demos store: www.amazon.com/shop/tooldemos
As an associate, I earn from purchases.
#tooldemos - Авто та транспорт
Amazon Affiliate link to the OTC slide hammer: amzn.to/3t8X06q
If you click the link, it supports the channel, but won’t cost you more.
This video literally saved me so much heart ache. I was having trouble getting a bearing out and saw you invert one of the pullers. I immediately went back to my garage, flipped the 3 prong puller around and pulled the bearing out of my 88 fox body. Cant thank you enough!
Thanks for that, Ben. It’s so awesome to read your victory story. I’m glad I could help.
Awesome video I loved the way you demonstrated all the bits in the box
I appreciate that, thanks.
God stuff. This is a must have for any serious toolbox. Thanks for sharing this!
Great overview and solid advice. Thank you for sharing this!
Thanks Mad Eddie
You explain things very well. I learned a lot. Thank you for doing this. Subscribed to your channel.👍
Thanks, Neil. I’m glad you’re here.
excellent vid, exactly what I was looking for, cheers!
Awesome! Thanks.
I like your videos you show and say it in common man terms thanks for sharing
I appreciate you saying that, Tom. Thanks for watching.
Aesome😊😊😊
make a video of how to make the cv axle 😬cause i got a set gearwrench brand but didn't come with it 😪😔
Can I use a puller like this on an outer driveshaft joint? Stuck solid in the hub. Tried the force screw method, but feel the shock of the slide hammer might be more effective. How would the hammer interface to the exposed thread on the end of the driveshaft?
Probably with a short chain
Hello Lincos... I would like to make your video as a reference of our educational books literacy. Would you permit?
Great video; I ordered one from Gearwrench, it is coming Nov 20. I also ordered the axle tool from Amazon and a extension bar as on the driver side axle this is kind of awkward to use; I pulled that new axle already to re install as it is not going in all the way or so is my perception, but second time I replaced the seal with a duralast one which sits between the bell edge nd the wall when driven in with an old seal, then I got some Toyota factory retainer C clips and also a new Toyota axle driver side seal; drove the axle in again following all recommendations from a tech from a transmission shop and mechanics from the dealer with same results; no matter how hard one push in or rotates the axle as it comes in and then few taps, its dust seal sits half 1/4 inch from the bell edge and it wont go in further even if hit it hard; this time I refrained from hitting it too hard but both axle rotates just fine; the driver side axle which seems to be driven in all the way, the spline on the wheel protrudes like 3/4 inch out while in the driver side there is 1 inch; so I still don't know if this is because the passenger axle is out of spec; I did not measure them or compared with factory ones before discarding them; big mistake! they suppose to be direct factory replacement but being Chinese go figure! Dealer and trans shop mechanics told me with axles it is what it is and recommended to drive the vehicle around the block lightly then look for leaking; if it leaks then re-do the job! seems like a PITA and of that I have had plenty with this project at every turn; after I added the transmission gear oil to capacity 2.6 quarts, I can not see any leaks even moving the axles so have to wait nd see if driving will produce leaks (providing it will be able to drive!) or if the clip is not engaged by re-checking the axle depth into the housing after the test drive. Right now what I am missing is to re-install the front seats after washing them and washing cabin carpet, add coolant, add engine oil, disconnect fuel relay as injectors are in and connected; install battery, prime engine by cranking, install spark plugs/ coils, IF CAR STARS and RUNS OK, then charge the AC system. HOPEFULLY I will be done with it pretty soon, but I tell you, either way I feel I am done! it will be hard to look at the Tacoma and start it all over again and if this engine don't run or runs wrong and needs to be opened again I don't think I will do it again; at that point let's see what the options are but I am hopping that it will run; the last couple days I was struggling to install the new Chinese lamps replacements as the holes wont match; I was pissed, then it took forever to get the front bumper in; wrong screws, missing screws, broken plastic clips, missing clips and poor body shop work on both side brackets on top of bumper; took several trips to dealer, order part special order, returns ETC to finally get it in, not perfectly factory looking but only me noticing at night fall I had the front wheel on and car lowered from jacks to floor; now it looks like a car again! - in our neighborhood my neighbor from across our house he was robbed this morning of his catalytic converter, last thing I need at this time now thieves also hitting the block with that crap! got cameras everywhere but who knows! anyways; I don't mind to get stuck with the axle issue as long as the car runs! may even take it to the transmission shop and have them do it....to be continue on the final steps!
Wow, what a journey! I’m glad you can see the light at the end of the tunnel. No doubt you’ll be very happy to know you were able to get it all done.
@@ToolDemos And there was light at the end of the tunnel; car RUNS!!!! yeahhh!! ...still, have to see how the issue with axle will turn out, drove in the city today, went to DMV, got 10 days permit, driving it tonight like 80 miles to see if will pass smog inspection needed here in Nevada, if all goes well, adding to insurance then getting the registration possible tomorrow Saturday, then would see about the RH axle; I have a video and will post it soon; car started without much issues after priming then there was a metallic noise coming from the timing cover direction also got smoke from burning the oil poured into the cylinders earlier; I guess I over did it there :) but the noise I thought it was an issue with the timing belt...nope!...it was low fluid in the power steering pump! once found the issue and corrected after few shuts downs and starts, smoke and noise got married and went away to a mechanic honey moon, I am generally happy how it goes so far, watching for leaks and seems not to be any coming from the RH seal on the axle, ride is a little rough but suspension is old and needs to be done, brake pads are good but got some vibration at breaking; will have to find out what it is coming from. Got tires to correct air pressure, gas with fuel injector cleaner nad hit autozone for a couple hundred in windshield blades, car seats protectors because I expended 2 days detailing inside and other little miscellaneous; It feels like when we got get a new car from the dealer but all kid aside I am glad to drive it again; clutch is engaging good; i am sure it can be adjusted better but it is smooth and no issues shifting; I can believe I did this! it only took almost 4 years or maybe more because still has few things to take care of but, it is a Toyota and it runs!! with some more work luck and care could go another 100000 miles!
@@fireyourrocketts that is so awesome! Congrats man. Send me a link to the video when you post it.
@@ToolDemos Update; just got home late, drove tue car all night trying to reset OBD, got 97 miles so far, about 20 in the city, highway kept between 60 and 70, @60 it runs @ 2600 rpm, @70 it shows 2900 rpm on 5th gear, @45 it does 2200 rpm, I think it may be a little high on the rpm but the engine purrs like a kitty, so quiet, so nice, heat gauge needle stays at middle or slightly below; I got NGK Iridium Spark Plugs IX, BKR5EIX-11, now Haynes states spark plugs gap @ 0.43, the Iridium came @ 0.37, I adjusted that gap to 0.40, just to pretend I am a mechanic as I don’t really know what to expect; I tried to get it to book specs but then read they are easy to mess up and decided not to push, also read that the iridium dont suppose to be adjusted so there is that; I dont really know if they have an influence in the rpm engine runs, I guess they do but I can tell you from the tank full of gas the last 82 miles did not move the gas needle still to the first bar; it was crazy economic as I remember that car from before! I f I do same trip in our Chrysler Town and Country it consumes quarter of tank of gas; so I am guessing we starting to see the benefits of the newly overhauled engine; if I could do it (although I was not really sure until it started!) anyone can!!
@@fireyourrocketts great job.
Does it fit a 5-stud hub assembly for a Dakota?
Hi JS. I haven’t personally used it on a Dakota, but the adapter is designed for cars and light trucks, so I think it’s a safe guess to say yes.
Wear some gloves
Good advice.
You realize that machine screw can simply be threaded into a race and used to pop out a race, right? Not for auto repair that's a different set. Do what you want but I respectfully disagree
GENTLEMEN!! DO NOT BUY THIS SET.
I just bought a Gearwrench one with more pieces for $90 after tax. Free delivery. Home Depot online. Good video overpriced set.