Extremely helpful. My new project is leaking in the front and this information was an eye opener and probably saved me from doing the job three times. Many thanks. The other videos excellent. You guys should do more.
I'm glad l saw this video before starting to replace pump seal on my C6 ford truck trans. I had never even heard about this bushing. Thank you , you saved me from having to pull the trans. out again. God bless you.
I have a Jaguar S-type with a Ford 5r55n tranny. The transmission runs relatively fine, except for the odd rougher than smooth shift between 2 and 3rd gear. The main problem with it is it doesn't engage the TCC in 5th gear and it disables the function. I'm European, kind of new to auto trannies, but I also get a whoosh noise that changes pitch as the car starts to move slowly and it feels like it takes about a second to engage drive or reverse from neutral. So the car throws a P0741 code, I've already changed the valve body, torque converter, solenoid pack, flushed the fluid twice, filter. Not much luck solving the problem,. The transmission also overheated on me once and that was solved with the last fluid flush. I also noticed that if I overfilled during the flush procedure fluid starts leaking out between the torque converter and the pump, I also sometimes see a drop under the bell-housing when I look under the car with regular use . Now Jaguar has a technical service bulletin for my particular car (2000 4.0 v8) in which it's trying to solve this particular code with placing an O-Ring that has been accidentally been omitted from factory, which sits where the pump meets the torque converter. I don't know the previous owners of the car and I have no clue if they took the car to the dealership to solve this problem. The question is: would that damn o-ring be able to cause all of those symptoms, including the P0741 code because of loss of pressure? I've ordered the part and will take my chance on taking down the tranny and installing the thing, but I was curious on your thoughts about the matter. This is a very rare problem with this gearbox and I literally can't find any info online to help me fix this particular one. Thanks!
Great video. I replaced the front seal on my 700r4 1985 k1500 4x4. It leaked worse than before. I decided to take to a shop. He tells me the front seal does not go all the way in. Tells me also he doesn't like doing 700r4 transmissions. Has a shop with 10 bays. I walked away.
That is such a great lesson my friend. Many of us just change the seal but take a chance & hope that the bushing is fine. Just before I install my Mustang's 5.0 engine, I was looking into replacing the AOD tranny front pump seal & the tail housing seal. Since the mustang is now over 30 years old & was sitting for 5 years since I blew a head gasket, I should also replace the bushing. Good think I also came across on how to test the torque converter for leaks. Thank you for your video.
My tail shaft seal and front pump seal was also leaking in my 92 5.0, After replacing the tail shaft seal twice I decided to replace the whole tail shaft housing which came with a new bushing and seal from Ford! Also the front pump seal did require a new bushing to stop the leak! 1992 5.0L Convertible 145,000 with a shift kit, 373s, 3/4” Ford Motorsport lowering springs, Shorty headers, H pipe, 2 1/2 SS mandrel bent pipes with Borla Mufflers! 130 amp alternator, Aluminum radiator, 24Lb injectors with matching MAF, 65mm throttlebody, Adjustable FPR, 190Lph in tank pump and Vortech SC! The car runs beautiful, Even the A/C blows ice cold idling in the sun on a 90° day, Never attempt to switch your A/C over to 134A! When I bought the car 10 years ago the A/C was dead, I replaced the receiver dryer, all the seals and put a vacuum on the system. After holding vacuum for a few hours I charged it with R12, Here we are 10 years later and it is still blowing at 40 something degrees Fahrenheit! I have my ASE Certification which allows me to purchase R12, But if you do not you can still purchase R12 on EBay as long as you are going to resell it 😉😉😉
Hey bud great videos you make, very helpful. I have a question, so my parts guy dropped the ball and i am missing the 13.050" green stripe lathe cut seal ring for pump housing, so if my old one isn't in bad condition, can i get away with reusing it and applying permatex 51531 to it ?
@@codemansauto208 Copy that thank you ! i got a new one anyways. I have one more question that would be very helpful, Do you have to stagger the split rings for pump shaft bearing? or do they go on a certain way ?
Hello! I have oil leaking from the front seal (ZF6hp19) ,where is the oil pump, we changed the oil seal but still leaking. Could you tell me if maybe I have to change the bearings behind? Can I change it from the outside, with some special tools?
Great information thank you you are making great videos I like it you don't do nothing out that's what makes great videos I've seen a lot of videos that are okay but they leave out a lot of information and I don't know why they do that but those are the videos I don't want to watch thank you so much
some great information... but clearly the mindset is towards doing it once and having it last forever, sometimes people own a vehicle thats worth 1000$ in running order and they dont want to throw a 500$ converter at it and this part and that part and the other part and strip it all down to nothing.. sometimes knocking a bushing in from the front, or half assing some other repair is the right way to go about it, now i dont expect a shop to do that, and no one expects it to work flawlessly everytime, but hey if you have a chance to fix your pile of a car for 30$ and an afternoons work, why wouldnt you try that, not out anything but your time if it doesnt work, and if it does work chances are it only has to last 5000miles before the cars headed for scrap anyway
All of a sudden (while driving interstate uphill), I had fluid pouring out the front of the tranny. Do you think that it could be a cracked weld at the base of the converter spout? If I put fluid in, it works again okay until it pours all the fluid out the front (in less than a minute!)
@@Aaron-cg7nn Haven't had time to mess with it. It is trailered and waiting for me to drop the tranny though. Meanwhile I bought a 1990 Towncar for $1000 that needed $100-200 repair (belt tensioner). It runs great and is low miles (
I replaced the bushing the seal and the torque converter on a 2012 Camry and Im still leaking gonna try testing the torque converter after I pull it apart
I got a 1990 Nissa D21 Hard-body pickup truck 2WD with a 4 cylinder automatic transmission. I got something wrong with the transmission are something. Let me begin at the beginning. I had the fuel pump go out why I was going to work and had to get towed 80 miles back home. And While I was being towed I had the truck in Neutral and didn't think nothing of it and keep being towed. But for the first 10 miles of being towed with the engine turned off. it still sounded like the engine was running. then all of a sudden the back tires locked up briefly for a tenth of a second then it didn't sound like the truck was running anymore. Then when I got home i changed the fuel pump and got the truck started I put it into reverse backed out of my driveway then put it into drive but their was no forward gears only reverse can anybody please put me in the right direction and tell me what I screwed up and what I need to change. I now know you supposed to unhook the driveshaft it you have an automatic and are being towed more then 10 are 15 miles
Dude. Just this one project has taken several of your videos for all the tips, precaution and know how. Thank you
I’ve pulled the drivetrain for the third time due to a tranny leak on a celica. This channel is spectacularly helpful.
Did you ever leak out the rear at the drive line yoke
Extremely helpful. My new project is leaking in the front and this information was an eye opener and probably saved me from doing the job three times. Many thanks. The other videos excellent. You guys should do more.
Thanks for the clear and to the point video. No wasted time here
I'm glad l saw this video before starting to replace pump seal on my C6 ford truck trans. I had never even heard about this bushing. Thank you , you saved me from having to pull the trans. out again. God bless you.
And that's not a fun one to pull, especially more than once. Hope it all went good for you. I'm about to attempt the same thing with an e4od
I have a Jaguar S-type with a Ford 5r55n tranny. The transmission runs relatively fine, except for the odd rougher than smooth shift between 2 and 3rd gear. The main problem with it is it doesn't engage the TCC in 5th gear and it disables the function. I'm European, kind of new to auto trannies, but I also get a whoosh noise that changes pitch as the car starts to move slowly and it feels like it takes about a second to engage drive or reverse from neutral. So the car throws a P0741 code, I've already changed the valve body, torque converter, solenoid pack, flushed the fluid twice, filter. Not much luck solving the problem,. The transmission also overheated on me once and that was solved with the last fluid flush. I also noticed that if I overfilled during the flush procedure fluid starts leaking out between the torque converter and the pump, I also sometimes see a drop under the bell-housing when I look under the car with regular use . Now Jaguar has a technical service bulletin for my particular car (2000 4.0 v8) in which it's trying to solve this particular code with placing an O-Ring that has been accidentally been omitted from factory, which sits where the pump meets the torque converter. I don't know the previous owners of the car and I have no clue if they took the car to the dealership to solve this problem. The question is: would that damn o-ring be able to cause all of those symptoms, including the P0741 code because of loss of pressure? I've ordered the part and will take my chance on taking down the tranny and installing the thing, but I was curious on your thoughts about the matter. This is a very rare problem with this gearbox and I literally can't find any info online to help me fix this particular one. Thanks!
Great info , I have Cadillac CTS in the shop, came leaking wwe replace the seal and leak the very same day, now I drop it again to install a 2nd seal
Great video. I replaced the front seal on my 700r4 1985 k1500 4x4. It leaked worse than before. I decided to take to a shop. He tells me the front seal does not go all the way in. Tells me also he doesn't like doing 700r4 transmissions. Has a shop with 10 bays. I walked away.
Thank you. I may have a seal job to do. Great vid
That is such a great lesson my friend. Many of us just change the seal but take a chance & hope that the bushing is fine. Just before I install my Mustang's 5.0 engine, I was looking into replacing the AOD tranny front pump seal & the tail housing seal. Since the mustang is now over 30 years old & was sitting for 5 years since I blew a head gasket, I should also replace the bushing. Good think I also came across on how to test the torque converter for leaks. Thank you for your video.
My tail shaft seal and front pump seal was also leaking in my 92 5.0, After replacing the tail shaft seal twice I decided to replace the whole tail shaft housing which came with a new bushing and seal from Ford! Also the front pump seal did require a new bushing to stop the leak! 1992 5.0L Convertible 145,000 with a shift kit, 373s, 3/4” Ford Motorsport lowering springs, Shorty headers, H pipe, 2 1/2 SS mandrel bent pipes with Borla Mufflers! 130 amp alternator, Aluminum radiator, 24Lb injectors with matching MAF, 65mm throttlebody, Adjustable FPR, 190Lph in tank pump and Vortech SC! The car runs beautiful, Even the A/C blows ice cold idling in the sun on a 90° day, Never attempt to switch your A/C over to 134A! When I bought the car 10 years ago the A/C was dead, I replaced the receiver dryer, all the seals and put a vacuum on the system. After holding vacuum for a few hours I charged it with R12, Here we are 10 years later and it is still blowing at 40 something degrees Fahrenheit! I have my ASE Certification which allows me to purchase R12, But if you do not you can still purchase R12 on EBay as long as you are going to resell it 😉😉😉
Do you have a part number list for the seal, gasket and bushing for the c4 pump? Thanks! Great video.
What are the symptoms in this case. Transpan overfilling and running out tail shaft? Or a leak at the engine bellhousing
After 3x doing this job now I see this video and am in high hopes to do it right this time.
Me too, I have pulled it out the third time only to realize is the Bush GM 5le40 bmw X5
Hey bud great videos you make, very helpful. I have a question, so my parts guy dropped the ball and i am missing the 13.050" green stripe lathe cut seal ring for pump housing, so if my old one isn't in bad condition, can i get away with reusing it and applying permatex 51531 to it ?
there is no pressure on the o ring seal,
we have had a lot of transmissions that come to the shop that have permatex and they seem to hold
@@codemansauto208 Copy that thank you ! i got a new one anyways. I have one more question that would be very helpful, Do you have to stagger the split rings for pump shaft bearing? or do they go on a certain way ?
Thank you sir i will take the pump to an expert and i will take the converter to test it before i bring it home
Hello! I have oil leaking from the front seal (ZF6hp19) ,where is the oil pump, we changed the oil seal but still leaking. Could you tell me if maybe I have to change the bearings behind? Can I change it from the outside, with some special tools?
❤❤❤3 times for my Chevrolet matiz .
Jf402e jatco tranny .
And still leaking !!!!
I didn't know that !!!
Changing the bushing will solve this ?????
Great information thank you you are making great videos I like it you don't do nothing out that's what makes great videos I've seen a lot of videos that are okay but they leave out a lot of information and I don't know why they do that but those are the videos I don't want to watch thank you so much
Typical clearance between bushing and converter? .003 to .004 ?
some great information... but clearly the mindset is towards doing it once and having it last forever, sometimes people own a vehicle thats worth 1000$ in running order and they dont want to throw a 500$ converter at it and this part and that part and the other part and strip it all down to nothing.. sometimes knocking a bushing in from the front, or half assing some other repair is the right way to go about it, now i dont expect a shop to do that, and no one expects it to work flawlessly everytime, but hey if you have a chance to fix your pile of a car for 30$ and an afternoons work, why wouldnt you try that, not out anything but your time if it doesnt work, and if it does work chances are it only has to last 5000miles before the cars headed for scrap anyway
Thank you 42RE explanation
Have you encountered a pump strip on the 4l60e
i found the front seal for my 545rfe but I can't seem to find the bushing anywhere. Any ideas? Thanks
5:48 when i removed the seal on my powerglide transmission I accidently knocked a hole in the piece that the seal backs up against. What do i do?
Is the the same deal for aisin a341e?
All of a sudden (while driving interstate uphill), I had fluid pouring out the front of the tranny.
Do you think that it could be a cracked weld at the base of the converter spout?
If I put fluid in, it works again okay until it pours all the fluid out the front (in less than a minute!)
hey did you figure out your issue?
@@Aaron-cg7nn Haven't had time to mess with it. It is trailered and waiting for me to drop the tranny though. Meanwhile I bought a 1990 Towncar for $1000 that needed $100-200 repair (belt tensioner). It runs great and is low miles (
I replaced the bushing the seal and the torque converter on a 2012 Camry and Im still leaking gonna try testing the torque converter after I pull it apart
Hey I accidentally put a small dent in my seal will that hurt it?
thats a lot of work to take a chance on it not leaking
I got a 1990 Nissa D21 Hard-body pickup truck 2WD with a 4 cylinder automatic transmission. I got something wrong with the transmission are something. Let me begin at the beginning. I had the fuel pump go out why I was going to work and had to get towed 80 miles back home. And While I was being towed I had the truck in Neutral and didn't think nothing of it and keep being towed. But for the first 10 miles of being towed with the engine turned off. it still sounded like the engine was running. then all of a sudden the back tires locked up briefly for a tenth of a second then it didn't sound like the truck was running anymore. Then when I got home i changed the fuel pump and got the truck started I put it into reverse backed out of my driveway then put it into drive but their was no forward gears only reverse can anybody please put me in the right direction and tell me what I screwed up and what I need to change. I now know you supposed to unhook the driveshaft it you have an automatic and are being towed more then 10 are 15 miles
Awesomeness
Nice! Thanks
Leaks only after sitting three days. Do all older automatics do this, it seems so. Dumb design, can two seals be installed back to back?
if it leaks with the engine off then its not the front seal
@@codemansauto208 - What might it be, if not the front seal?
My car help me
Good stuff
than you
All good but get rid of the bass.