I tried almost everything and couldn't get my crank bolt off of my 1991 CB7 Accord. Since I am a casual diy'er I didn't want to invest over $300 for a high torque cordless or air impact wrench. Instead I purchased a $65 Harbor Freight corded impact wrench on sale and the Lisle 19mm socket for about $30. This combination did the trick and took off my bolt in less than 5 seconds. Just wanted to share that you don't need to invest in expensive tools to remove this bolt.
You the man saved my ass after trying everything and giving up saw your video 20 mins later at Autozone picking up 19mm harmonic balancer socket came off first shot with my air gun thanks again
Working on my daughter's Mazda, worked for three hours trying to get the bolt from hell off the crank pulley. Then I remembered a trick I used many years ago to change valve springs. First, turn the crank to get #1 piston to TDC and then starting down toward BDC about half way. Take a few feet of nylon rope and feed it into the spark plug hole, then turn the crank backwards until the piston compresses the rope and stops. You now can take a breaker bar and pop off the bolt without the crank turning. Retighten the bolt and turn the crank to move the piston down again and pull out the rope..
Wow! That's pretty revealing, I recently had a real bitch of a job on a 320d BMW (N47T2 engine) . After many failed attempts I did eventually remove the crank pulley bolt by the use of last resort (cranking the engine with a 3/4 drive bar against the ground.) Your video is a revelation, Amazon here I come! Thank you.
The way i did it, bought a 3/4 ratchet with a half inch adapter. Attached TWO half inch extensions both 12” each and a jack stand to support the extensions. USED A REGULAR DEEP IMPACT SOCKET SIZE 19 of course and all i did was add the bar of my jack to the ratchet and VUALA… its all about leverage man. WORK SMART NOT HARD! All the tools i used bought at harbor freight too
Amazing how tight these bolts become. Attempted same removal on my 85 VW Golf, nothing worked. Finally took it to a local shop where the job was accomplished.
I successfully removed mine (2008 Honda Odyssey V6) using: 1. This or similar 19mm crank socket, 2. Kroil Penetrating Oil sprayed twice a day over 3 days, 3. Heated the bolt area with a electric heat gun, 4. Removed with a Harbor Freight EarthQuake 1000 ft-lb Air Impact Wrench while holding the socket steady with a gloved hand (to prevent wobble-vibration). I first tried with an electric Impact which was not up to the task.
I’m on my 4th cam belt, tensioner, water pump, and valve adjustment on my 00 Civic Si EM1. I use the special 19mm extra heavy duty socket, and a Worx Nitro 20V 1400ft/lb impact gun, and the crank bolt loosens no problem at all. It also helps to spray WD40 around the head of the crank bolt, and let it soak in for an hour prior to putting the impact gun on it.
Ok so I don't know if you may already know this but you were working against yourself by heating the bolt up. So by theory you should've heated up the crank or even better froze the bolt. You can heat up the nut to get it off or the bolt out because by heating you expand the female side. You could freeze the bolt and that should help also but heating it defeats the purpose. Heat=Expansion Cold=Contraction but besides that I am trying to replace the timing belt on my 2002 Honda Odyssey so in the end your advice about the bigger socket was golden. Thank you very much! I liked your video also. Have a wonderful day.
I realize these are known to be problematic but a little FYI, these impact drivers work better when you don't PUSH toward the bolt with a lot of pressure. That might not have helped in this case but for future reference. Well done!
Interested in the physics behind this assertion. I've noticed this myself, but have never heard anyone else say it. Doesn't make sense on the surface. Gonna deep dive, any brainiacs out there want to to beat me to the punch have at it. There IS something to this statement though.
My first thought is that inward force on the fastener dampens the impact, or impulse, increasing the time the force is applied. When in fact we need more force over less time. In fact, I'm certain of this, I just don't understand the math behind it.
On my 2014 Accord V6, I tried everything you did, I purchased the largest Makita 1/2”, the pulley holder tool and still no luck. I seen where adding heat to it helps. I used my industrial heat Gun and heated the bolt to 300°. It came loose with the big socket and the Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT®... I think heat on the bolt is necessary.
Lisle socket for the win for sure! That bolt is on tightttttt. Tip! Mark the bolt and tighten it back to same spot or slightly more to avoid torque wrench :).
personally wondering if i need the harmonic holder to torque it back or can i just hit it with this socket with my impact to get it my new pulley back on
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I tried almost everything and couldn't get my crank bolt off of my 1991 CB7 Accord. Since I am a casual diy'er I didn't want to invest over $300 for a high torque cordless or air impact wrench. Instead I purchased a $65 Harbor Freight corded impact wrench on sale and the Lisle 19mm socket for about $30. This combination did the trick and took off my bolt in less than 5 seconds. Just wanted to share that you don't need to invest in expensive tools to remove this bolt.
Nice!
Good idea!
You the man saved my ass after trying everything and giving up saw your video 20 mins later at Autozone picking up 19mm harmonic balancer socket came off first shot with my air gun thanks again
Nice!!! Yes it was frustrating for me lol! Money well spent! I think they might rent it too
@@PhoRunner nope mine forever
Lol good deal
Working on my daughter's Mazda, worked for three hours trying to get the bolt from hell off the crank pulley. Then I remembered a trick I used many years ago to change valve springs. First, turn the crank to get #1 piston to TDC and then starting down toward BDC about half way. Take a few feet of nylon rope and feed it into the spark plug hole, then turn the crank backwards until the piston compresses the rope and stops. You now can take a breaker bar and pop off the bolt without the crank turning. Retighten the bolt and turn the crank to move the piston down again and pull out the rope..
This must be an old school trick! Love hearing about these
Great trick and doesn't damage the engine, great trick.
Might need a HP Ryobi impact wrench or Milwaukee impact wrench
@@manuelsnow2276nope still won't work
Wow! That's pretty revealing, I recently had a real bitch of a job on a 320d BMW (N47T2 engine) . After many failed attempts I did eventually remove the crank pulley bolt by the use of last resort (cranking the engine with a 3/4 drive bar against the ground.) Your video is a revelation, Amazon here I come! Thank you.
The way i did it, bought a 3/4 ratchet with a half inch adapter. Attached TWO half inch extensions both 12” each and a jack stand to support the extensions. USED A REGULAR DEEP IMPACT SOCKET SIZE 19 of course and all i did was add the bar of my jack to the ratchet and VUALA… its all about leverage man. WORK SMART NOT HARD! All the tools i used bought at harbor freight too
Amazing how tight these bolts become. Attempted same removal on my 85 VW Golf, nothing worked. Finally took it to a local shop where the job was accomplished.
I successfully removed mine (2008 Honda Odyssey V6) using: 1. This or similar 19mm crank socket, 2. Kroil Penetrating Oil sprayed twice a day over 3 days, 3. Heated the bolt area with a electric heat gun, 4. Removed with a Harbor Freight EarthQuake 1000 ft-lb Air Impact Wrench while holding the socket steady with a gloved hand (to prevent wobble-vibration). I first tried with an electric Impact which was not up to the task.
I’m on my 4th cam belt, tensioner, water pump, and valve adjustment on my 00 Civic Si EM1. I use the special 19mm extra heavy duty socket, and a Worx Nitro 20V 1400ft/lb impact gun, and the crank bolt loosens no problem at all. It also helps to spray WD40 around the head of the crank bolt, and let it soak in for an hour prior to putting the impact gun on it.
Ok so I don't know if you may already know this but you were working against yourself by heating the bolt up. So by theory you should've heated up the crank or even better froze the bolt. You can heat up the nut to get it off or the bolt out because by heating you expand the female side. You could freeze the bolt and that should help also but heating it defeats the purpose. Heat=Expansion Cold=Contraction but besides that I am trying to replace the timing belt on my 2002 Honda Odyssey so in the end your advice about the bigger socket was golden. Thank you very much! I liked your video also. Have a wonderful day.
Thanks for the info and yup! Realized my stupidity later lol. In either case, the beast got it off hehe
You're right, used 2 full cans of Loctite freeze spray, (it is the best)
I realize these are known to be problematic but a little FYI, these impact drivers work better when you don't PUSH toward the bolt with a lot of pressure. That might not have helped in this case but for future reference. Well done!
Interested in the physics behind this assertion. I've noticed this myself, but have never heard anyone else say it. Doesn't make sense on the surface. Gonna deep dive, any brainiacs out there want to to beat me to the punch have at it. There IS something to this statement though.
My first thought is that inward force on the fastener dampens the impact, or impulse, increasing the time the force is applied. When in fact we need more force over less time. In fact, I'm certain of this, I just don't understand the math behind it.
Thanks for the video! Man, your garage is so organized! 👍🏾
lol it's the only way i can get work done.....otherwise it bothers me lol
On my 2014 Accord V6, I tried everything you did, I purchased the largest Makita 1/2”, the pulley holder tool and still no luck. I seen where adding heat to it helps. I used my industrial heat Gun and heated the bolt to 300°. It came loose with the big socket and the Makita XWT08Z 18V LXT®... I think heat on the bolt is necessary.
Should try using dewalt dcf889 + weighted heavy socket some people did it with relative ease
Mine was up to the task with the heavy socket
Thank you for sharing this video cause I’m about to change the water pump on my son civic
Lisle socket for the win for sure! That bolt is on tightttttt. Tip! Mark the bolt and tighten it back to same spot or slightly more to avoid torque wrench :).
Just put a breaker bar and socket on the lower control arm and bump the starter. Gets it off in 1 minute.
True
Didn’t work
Now do you put the bolt back on with proper torque?
You get a tool to hold it or you can mark the bolt before removal and impact it til it’s back to that spot
Why you didn't use the special 50mm holer for Honda?
I did eventually to torque it down
Did you have to do something to stop the engine from turning over?
Nope. Not with the impact. Normally the special tool you can rent will be wedged up against the control arm
These sockets Ingersoll Rand S64M19L-PS1 Power Socket will definitely bust free the crank poly bolt.
Interesting
hats off to you, Sir!
thank you for sharing
Thanks sir!
Where did you get the socket
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RGNCV1U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00RGNCV1U&linkCode=as2&tag=phorunnerchannel-20&linkId=8024f029a931a5cf60030e60c2c16bcf
personally wondering if i need the harmonic holder to torque it back or can i just hit it with this socket with my impact to get it my new pulley back on
Mark a line before removal and you can hit it til it gets to the line/slightly past it. Will be fine.
i hope this works im going to buy one and put it on my electric snapon impact.
should work!
@@PhoRunner just put my car in 5th e brake up. and the bolt came off in almost 5 seconds. yes nst pulley going on
Ok make the bar to push up position use jack to push for you and break the bolt loose
i was thinking maybe next time try to a 400% F on the bolt if possible.
I need a bigger torch!
I'm exhausted just watching!😁
Haha don’t remind me!
Thanks for the info
You bet
I tell you what all you have to need is Milwaukee high torque impact 2767-20 I was Took off my Just in one minute without heat it up
Hehe my makita has served me well
The weighted Lisle socket is cheaper than a new impact.
1” Ingersoll rand air impact. 2 seconds tops..
Hmmm lol I think I have one of those
It’d be cheaper to replace my whole car
You need to cold, not to heat.
Go to harbor frieght
Buy a Hercules 3/4 ultra torque impact
And a short 19mm
It will come our so fast you will not believe it
Those bolts are hella tight
This clip should be 3' max
m18 is the best
Maybe hahah
Makita
That makita impact is weak
That socket is garbage and just rounds the bolt head.
Worked great for me
Worked great for me.
what should i get instead?
Junk the car .or buy the right tool to do the job.
I junked it
Use MAPP gas, itks hotter burning. Or OxyA.