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Lee Round Ball Molds
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- Опубліковано 18 тра 2024
- I believe that Lee Manufacturing has improved their round ball molds. I've had good luck with their previous molds and look forward to the round balls cast with little sprue extending and not being cut below tangent.
If you want perfect balls with no sprue, use a harbor freight rock tumbler. And stay away from swaged balls, they have air pockets in roughly 5% of them. Don't believe me because someone said the exact opposite thing 40 years ago?? Then do this.
1: get a harbor freight 2 drum rock tumbler.
2: only use 1 drum, keep the other as a spare.
3: put 9lbs of balls in the drum
4: fill drum with hot tap water
5: add a healthy swirl of dawn platinum(a tablespoon maybe 🤷♂️, I never measure)
6: run the drum for 12 to 96 hours. 96 gets all traces of all sprues off of all balls. 12 leaves "innie or outie belly buttons" at the sprue. There are reasons that you'd still want to identify the sprue, so experiment to see how much time works best for you.
7: do this with 1 batch of home cast, and 1 batch of factory swaged. Roughly 5% of the factory swaged will have "devil horns" after tumbling. This is indicative of air pockets inside because the trapped air can't be compressed. Out of hundreds of pounds of cast balls, not a single one has produced these "horns".
8: rinse the balls very very well with cold tap water(hot causes more oxidation more faster).
9: spread out on a towel, roll them around a little with your hands on the towel till the obvious bulk of the water is off of them. Let them dry for 12 to 24 hours or whatever works for you. Bigger balls usually take less time to tumble and less time to dry. Tiny balls usually take longer on both. I've done this with sizes from #8 birdshot to 0.732" pumpkin balls.
Congratulations! You're balls are now smooth, round, and polished!
How, thanks for the detail. Comments like yours can sure save re-inventing the wheel. Others may modify it some, but it sure is a great starting point. O.R.
I've used Lee molds for many years, in several calibres. They make excellent projectiles in rifle, pistol, or muzzleloading arms.
I used to shoot a Ruger "Old army" years ago and was told to always put the sprue cut of the ball at the top (facing directly out) of the cylinder chambers. The only explanation given was to improve accuracy but no other information was given. I think I might now understand the reasoning behind that advice. I also used to put the balls into a steel biscuit tin and let them roll around in it in back of my car for a couple of weeks to improve their "roundness". This seemed to work well with the sprue cut disappearing almost entirely and the accuracy improving further.
Thanks for the comment and information. That car trick has to be a first. I would agree that the first reason is probably accuracy. As a kid, we didn't want a wad of gum on the side of a small toy top. Another possible reason is that on the side I suppose there would be a chance that there might end up to be a slight space between the chamber side and the ball, even though lots of older molds leave an extension at the cut-off. Gas from adjacent chamber firing could get by and into the powder, setting off that chamber (maybe). Real likely if the cut-off is below tangent. O.R.
Another useful and not too long video. Thank you.
I took 4 of my BP revolvers to the range yesterday and fire 4-5 cylinders from each one, then shot 8 rounds of of my .62 caliber rifled Jaeger… then I came home and spent the next 6 hours cleaning it all up… I wonder if you and I could get Lee to make self cleaning bullets! Thank you for the video sir and have a great day!
They seem to have a desire for that sort of thing. If they do, that will free up more time for my wife for casting. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 good luck with that lol!
Excellent info! Thaks, from Argentina.
👍. O.R.
I wonder if LEE is still using the pressed carbide balls to finish the RB molds? for those that don't know LEE used to cherry the aluminum block to slightly under ball diameter and then press the two halves in a hydraulic press with perfectly round carbide balls of the proper diameter in the cavities to finish the molds. LEE RB molds were always my favorites due to this genius finishing technique. The balls always came out perfect... I hope they're still doing that, but IDK... the second gen molds I have only show a very small flat on very small diameter balls too btw. 451's and up show no visible flats or I should say hardly noticeable. The first gens were very good with larger diameter RB's.
Richard Lee was a very smart
man that was a knowledgeable firearms enthusiast.
That's why he was so successful with his products,
because he had an affinity for
his work and was knowledgeable about what he
did.
Contrast that to many of today's companies that are
run by "investment groups"
that don't have much if any
knowledge of the products
they make and sell, or their customer base
@@maxpinson5002 I agree the man was an absolute genius and his patents and the fact that every reloading company on the planet uses his patents today are proof of the fact.
Thanks for the info Old Ranger. Thumbs-up ~John
Thanks John. I checked out the .535 that arrived with the .451 that I took measurements from in part II. The.535 measured.535 across the top and .535-.536 diameters, so I feel pretty confident that they have made an improvement and figured some folks might want to know about this. O.R.
The Era’s Gone bullets drop perfect from my Lee molds!
I've had good luck with those also. O.R.
Some people like to say Lee molds are junk... Every Lee mold I've bought in the past 2 or 3 years has just been great. If I take the time to heat them on the hot plate properly, they drop good results with the first pour, I still toss the first couple, but thats more habit than requirement. Even the "vintage" Lee molds I've bought have been perfectly useable. The steel "other" manufacturer molds always give me trouble, even with a good preheat to around 450 degrees. I do have one Accurate mold I had made to a custom size, it's aluminum too... It was worth the money!
I just cast some 535 today from the second mould that was in the box. The first mold was the 451 that was used in my part II video. Just measured with micrometer: 535 across the sprue cut off, and 535 - 536 diameters. Hard to better that. Of course they won’t hold up to a real ass kicking or being dropped from the water tower, and then run over by a logging truck. And the folks that prefer iron can find a whole bunch of rusted ones on EBay. O.R.
I've been casting bullets for over 50 plus years, never ever had to used a hot plate, the best way to preheat your mold and make sure it is the right temperature, fill lead pot up with lead to the proper temperature stick the bottom of the mold into the lead, when you raise the mold from the lead and it does not stick on the mold it is ready.
@@sherwinstaudt1881 I was doing similar to preheat, then bought a small laboratory hot plate, I am for more consistent with the hot plate. Other bonus is that I can set a second mold on the plate while casting with the first.
@@sherwinstaudt1881 Yes that works well, thanks for the tip. My problem with the small potter electric that I’ve had since the 60’s is that unless full to the overflowing point, it is too small. Good reason to invest in a larger one. Thanks. O.R.
Lee molds are hit or miss. I've got some that are amazing, others I had to send back to Lee because they were unusable. It's just the nature of making them as cheap as humanly possible. I find that giving them some gentle loving with some fine emory cloth on the mold faces, the mold top, and the bottom of the sprue plate helps. Sometimes I'll also gently hit all the edges of the cavities with the emory cloth to remove any burrs. Gentle is key, the bhn of their aluminum is only about 95-ish, possibly less depending on the specific alloy.
I actually have had really good results with Lee molds and Lee products in general. with the molds there is not a huge selection of dia. but if they have the dia you need they are great. mine for round ball are the .457 and the .380 These work extremely well in my reamed out cylinders.
My cast .530 round balls have a small sprue. I use a small rock tumbler, no media of any kind just a handful of balls. After 24 hours the balls look swaged, mic out perfect and shoot great.
Thanks, I might give that a try with the couple hundred 451’s instead of re-casting them. O.R.
Thank you for taking the time to do this informative video.
You’re very welcome. O.R.
I've got Lee, Lyman, RCBS molds. The latter two have always been more than satisfactory. Lee molds have quirks one must figure out. If you buy them you must learn how your mold acts and what it likes pour wise.
Right, and those earlier ones had a fairly large diameter hole for the sprue and if casting rather hard lead that was cool, it was difficult, and can do damage when it is attempted to cut sprue from the ball. O.R.
I have roundball molds in a wide variety of calibers and from three different manufacturers and I can tell you my favorite are the ones made by Lee, and probably my very favorite is my .311 roundball mold for my squirrel gun but I also use it for buckshot. For the money, compared to the two Lyman ball molds I have, the Lee molds put out as good or as good as molds that cost twice as much.
They may not last three generations, but then the next gen can buy their own. Actually, if properly used, they will stand the time. O.R.
Thank you, I will have a look at my round ball molds when I am back in the workshop. They are a mix of CBE & Lee, interesting to see the difference. Cheers, First time to your channel.
Something I should have mentioned is that with the iron molds it is advised to leave bullets in the mold when finished. With the Lee (especially older ones with larger pouring holes) if this is done (especially with hard lead) it is difficult to cut off the sprue. I believe it better to leave the molds lead free as the Al won't rust like the iron ones what have an open cavity to trap moisture. O.R.
Fantastic knowledge thank you
The new design is much better for C&B pistols, I never did like that spigot you get from some moulds, I even made up device with 2 1/2" steel plates to roll them in, but it is so much more effort, the ball moulds type I now buy leave me to cut the whole sprue off, so I have made a cutter with a chamfered cutting edge, that leaves an almost radiused off cut, and they sell them in .001" increments. stay busy! Chris B.
That’s interesting. I always wondered about that peg sticking out would affect aerodynamics. Never helped when we were kids for someone to put their wad of gum on the side of my toy top. O.R.
I was taught and have had great results with loading the ball where the ramrod presses against the sprue when ramming the ball. This way the sprue will be centered at the leasing point on the ball and will never contact the rifling at all. My molds are what you showed as being first generation as they have the roll pins for alignment. They are at least 30 years old. The only pistol I have that is not as accurate with my cast balls vs factory cast balls is my CVA 36 caliber. For some reason I cannot figure out it hates my cast balls. But it has best accuracy with minet style bullets so thats what I shoot in it.
I’ve tried factory in the 36 also when the cast weren’t getting it done, but had no better luck with them. So…..maybe the 36 calibers are just more fussy. Nature of the beast possibly. My 44’s seem to do better in most cases. I also load sprue up when possible as most literature recommends. Thanks for your comment. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 if you really wanna spray some 36 balls get a Pietta Pepperbox from Midway USA. Cost about $240 or so. Smooth bore cylinder and no sights but fun to shoot. The one bp revolver I honestly wish would chain fire just for effect. Lol.
@@martinswiney2192 My cousin left one for me to play with over a year ago. Haven’t got to it yet which reminds me to tell my wife she should pickup more of the load around here.
It would be an excellent choice to experiment with to try to nail down what is most likely to cause chain fires. O.R.
Thanks for the info
So the Sprue plate hasn't come loose yet?
No. I have had a number loosen on the older ones, but so far the recent ones
are working as they should. I believe the beeswax helps. The screw is left hand thread I believe and the occasional lube seems to help. O.R.
I have an older Lee Precision mold that I bought back in the late 1980’s, that’s .440 round ball that might be a 1’st or second gen. Not sure as it’s been a while since I used it, as I no longer have the gun for that mold. And I have a .357 round ball, think it might be a third gen, that came with the Schneider and Glassick reproduction that I have. Then I have the new .450 conical, I’m sure that’s a third gen.
Don’t know when they switched to the pegs and the circular venting. There was quite a while when I wasn’t doing much shooting (or buying) from early 90’s till 2015. Maybe someone can give an update. O.R.
I never noticed. THANKS! what about cast pure lead weights, to box labeled weights?
Haven't weighed any yet, but just used the second mold (.535), and it measures really good. Top to bottom (across the sprue) was right on .535, and diameters were .535 - .536. Have a good week Dave. O.R.
What temperature do you keep your pure lead?
Something I should check. I don't have a thermostat on my old potter. When I think it's getting over temp, I add more lead which keeps sort of constant. After casting a while, experience helps. A person can tell by the way the mold is reacting, such as how long it takes the lead to solid up on top of the plate. Next time I mold, now that I have one of those fancy infra-red or whatever they're called, I will check and let you know. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Thanks, but don't bother. I used to cast .375 RB and .58 Minie balls on a Coleman stove when I was 13 or 14 and never had an issue. I'm 73 now and have an electric furnace with a thermostat and a stand alone thermometer. I'm lucky to cast two or three good ones out of twenty. I think I'm going to dig out my old Coleman stove and iron pot and start over. Watching you reminded me how much fun it was.
@@randyc5650 👍
The double cavity mold gives me a cheap way to try out a ball size in my guns. So, i buy a double cavity first to see how I like it. If it fits good on my gun I will buy a six cavity
Mold.
You’re probably aware that Track of the Wolf has a number of molds not listed by Lee. These are round ball of course. O.R.
6 cavity gets heavy and hard to keep hot, I like 2 or maybe 4 cavity for almost everything I cast now. Might just be me though. I can sit for an hour and turn out more than I can shoot in a day, so works for me. Mostly making conical these days and mostly for 50cal (airgun and BP rifles). I do have a bunch of 357 for an airgun, my rifle likes the Lee 356-125-2r best and they are super simple to cast. Then powder coat and size to prevent lead in the barrel.
@@oldranger3044 Yes, Track of the Wolf is my favorite store.
I shoot the old favorites. 440s 445s and 451s in my 45s and 490s in 50, 530s in 54 and 570s in my 58s. I have not experimented much with other ball sizes
I am way behind in my shooting. They have a monthly off-hand rifle match at 25 50 and 100 yards at the local club. I shoot every now and then. I am still working so I have 1000 things to do and one Saturday a week to get them done.
I have acquired an Eras Gone 36 Colt mold and an original 31 Colt mold that I hope to shoot soon.
I have enjoyed your videos.
Thanks very much for doing them.
@@minigpracing3068 I shoot critters that I catch in Havahart box traps with Crossman 1322.
I like the pistol because it's discreet
I blew out the probe seal in my 40 year old pistol pumping it up 15 times to kill a raccoon. So I have to order a re-seal kit for it.
In the mean time I purchased a new 1322 and a 1377. I hope to experiment with them and see which penetrates deeper into a hardback book.
I have a Sharpshooter mold for reloading 22 rim-fire that casts a 40 grain round nosed bullet and a 25 grain pointed bullet. I hope to cast some 25 grain bullets and try them in my 1322. I might try casting some in pewter and see how they shoot.
As far as multi cavity molds goes I advised people when I was working in a gun store to buy reloading equipment that matches their shooting style
If they shoot bolt action rifles or single action revolvers then a single stage press is all they need.
If they shoot semi-autos, then they need a progressive press.
If they shoot machine guns then they need a fully automatic reloading machine.
When it comes to casting my problem is getting the molds too hot. So I like to have several molds so if one gets too hot I can leave it out of the rotation for a few minutes.
I often cast for two calibers while I have the pot hot as long as the alloy is suitable for both calibers.
I do like 6 cavity molds for semi-autos and double action revolvers.
I often have two molds at a time working. The 6 cavity mold takes a few seconds to flash over so I set it down and pick up the other.
I can cast 1000 bullets in a couple of hours once I get going.
I keep a 6 quart, cast iron. Bean pot on a turkey fryer within reach. When i need to top off my Lee pot I reach over and get a soup ladle of hot lead and top off the pot. I have to keep an eye on the heat in the bean pot and keep turning down the gas as the pot gets lower. Other than that it's a pretty good system.
I suppose I could use an electric burner and use some sort of controller to keep the lead in the bean pot at just the right temperature. A little too high tech for me though.
I have not got into pre-charged air guns as of yet. I just graduated from springers to gas rams. The jury is still out on which is better.
I am old school. I like simple and durable things.
@@johnndavis7647 I’m lucky I don’t live closer to the Track. Actually not that far, but have to drive through the twin cities to get there. I did make several trips there in the 80’s, lots of fun and a great experience. Have got a fair amount of building supplies there through the years, great folks. O.R.
The guy that I bought my 3rd gen Colt 1860 .44 from and who was also selling a 3rd Gen 1851 .36 inadvertently mixed up the Colt bullet molds between the and sent the .36 to me with my pistol and ended up selling the Navy before I realized it, so if anyone wants a Colt .36 roundball and conical bullet mold and has a .44 to trade for it let me know. It's never been used from what I can tell. It's brass and came with the 3rd gen Colts.
Thanks, maybe someone will pick up on this. O.R.
@@oldranger3044 Yessir. The guy I bought it from is trying to recover the correct one from his other customer, but he hasn't heard back yet, and over phone transactions take much longer, apparently. No big deal, at least he's trying to make good on it and acknowledged his mistake, so I'm not mad. I'm not holding my breath however.
I have a 4:51 roundball mold I will trade
I sure would like to see the cherry bit and where to buy them make my own molds
Sorry, can't be of much or any help with that. I've only read that mold makers used them (or at least in the past), and probably a special machine shop or tool and die maker thing. O.R.
It would be a "lollipop endmill". You'd also need a CNC mill, or some very serious Macgivering to make it work. Basically with this method, both halves close in on the spinning tool very slowly. So you'd need a way to mount them and move them extremely precisely +/- 0.0005" max. Most modern mold makers just pure straight cnc mill the halves, it's way easier for most businesses. The cherry or lollipop or reamer method was better when manual milling was king, it can be faster for larger production if you have the special setup for it(bookoo bucks).
@@joearledge1 Thanks for the input. Have wondered how this was done. O.R.
@@joearledge1 ok I will just buy them lol thanks
@@hoghunter6872 you can make molds at home, there are videos about it online, it's usually just a project and a half with various degrees of success. For most people, it is just way easier faster and cheaper to buy it, unless you're into machining as a hobby or profession.