Rain damaged our ZIP sheathing (037)
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- We push through a week of rain to get the ZIP System sheathing installed on our lean-to. During the process, some of the sheathing was damaged. Rain swelled the OSB to twice its normal size.
Recording date: 28 Oct 2020
Seems like you could be sandwiching moisture between the foam and the outer layer of the osb.
You guys are impressive! Fun to watch.
Thanks. I wish we were faster. But we’re learning.
I was surprised that you never setup some large tarps the could have covered the entire barn or at least parts of it to keep the rain out so you could continue to work in poor weather.
Another UA-cam channel in Canada did not get his cabin roof sheathing on by Winter and just had a tarp over his cabin all Winter and he had no problems with Snow inside on a steeper roof.
It would have saved all that time sweeping out the water and you could have continued to sheath when it rained.
We never considered it. Should have considered it though. Would’ve helped a lot.
I assume the reason the zip isn’t attached to the studs is it’s not needed for racking resistance? Why install the foam under the zip?
The taping is wrong. Your supposed to start from the bottom. Doing the vertical seams and then the long horizontal seam would give you better protection
Yeah, we didn’t really pay any attention to shingling the tape. Probably should’ve.
Why not use the insulated ZIP panels?
Great question. Yes, Zip-R would’ve been a better choice for us. But it was early in the pandemic, supplies were limited, and costs were ridiculous. We found the 7/16” Zip and 1” XPS on sale at pre-pandemic prices, so we went that route. More time for installation, but half the cost. Under normal circumstances, Zip-R would be the way to go.
The voice sounds like a south park character.
I know it is faster but I wondered why you did not alternate four foot lengths of the sheathing and foam so the seams did not line up?
I presume it is such a weather tight system you did not think it was worth it.
We considered it. But then we opted for simplicity. We did offset the seams by a couple inches, but I doubt it mattered much. All the air sealing comes from the ZIP. The insulation is really just for the thermal break and additional R-value.
That was the first thing I noticed. If the joints are well staggered, all the butt and band joints end up much more flush and tidy.
@@mrboat580 It is too bad they decided to stop videoing their construction before they finished their structure. it would have been nice if they would have posted one last video showing the finished building.
Ive been thinking of doing this to my house. How are you fastening the zip to the wall? Are there any concerns with the insulation interfering with the structural shearing properties of the OSB? Ive searched for documentation but havent found any.
We used 3” galvanized ring shank nails. That puts 1-1/2” into the framing. It’s the same process used in Zip-R sheathing. I suppose we’ll have the same sheer values as with Zip-R, and we certainly haven’t noticed any issues.
If you live in the North do not use ZIP system. You want the vapor barrier on the inside NOT the outside. If you live in the South ZIP system, is perfect because you want the vapor barrier on the outside. If you vapor barrier both the inside and outside you will be trapping moisture in between your walls and it will mold and rot. I have done extensive research into this. As someone else said, this entire area should have been tarped. They sealed the moisture into the ZIP system panels. Also every single nail should have been caulked with ZIP system caulking.
What's that stuff going on under the Zip panels? Insulation?
Ah, never mind; I found it. Kingspan Greenguard XPS panels.
Yah. It’s homemade Zip-R. It was early pandemic time, and getting Zip-R at any reasonable price was impossible. So we made our own.
Did you use those H clips everywhere you used Zip?
If not why did you use them in some places and not others?
I presume it was not needed to put foam for insulation under the roof Zip because you are insulating inside but you put it under the wall Zip and you are insulating inside there as well.
We used H-clips everywhere on the roof. We used blocking everywhere on the walls. Both do the same job. We didn’t consider H-clips for the walls. Is it code-compliant? If so, we should’ve considered it.
I do not believe that ZIP over foam is rated for roofs. For sure. I know that ZIP-R isn’t rated for roofs. That’s the only reason we didn’t do it. We wanted to use foam for the office, but opted to stick to what we knew was approved. Of course, we sprayed closed-cell after the fact which did the trick.
@@wanderwoodfarm3801 The person who tarped their log cabin roof over winter ended up laying down plywood then foam then metal roof. He is in Canada and I do not know if the rules are different there. He wanted an insulated roof and could not do it from the inside.
@@wanderwoodfarm3801 I am unclear what the purpose of the H clips are.
At first I thought I thought they were for uniform spacing, then I thought it adds rigidity and trueness if there was nothing to nail into. I see how they work on sheathing I just have not seen anyone else use them.
They lock together the sheathing edge when there isn’t wood under it (I.e. when an edge floats free between purlins). So the two sheets and two edges support each other. It’s hard to describe, but it’s immediately obvious when you see it in action. You step on one edge and the other edge bends a bit too, distributing your weight across both sheets. Code requires them for roofing, I believe.
Probably obvious, but the foam is only beneficial for unvented roof assemblies. If you have a conventional vented attic, the foam wouldn’t serve any purpose on the deck. Our only unvented roof is over the office area.
We had considered doing unvented for the main building, but it would’ve been incredibly difficult with our trusses and roof structure to get the insulation right up and onto the underside of the deck. You’d have to hang batts or use spray foam for pretty much everything. Compare the difficulty of that to blown-in.
And we wouldn’t have gotten any real benefit from doing an unvented assembly. It’s not like the main barn attic is a usable space if conditioned.
If it was an exposed timber structure with cathedral ceilings, then yes please let’s do unvented and show off that structure. Or if it’s a stable gable roof that made our attic walkable and usable for storage, then sure let’s do it. But for our design… not worth the headache and cost.
I DON'T SEE ANY PROVISIONS FOR WINDOWS WITH PROPER HEADERS FOR DOORS AND WINDOWS ALSO IF YOU ARE IN A HIGH SNOW AREA YOU SHOULD HAVE HAVE YOUR RAFTERS AT 16 INCHES AND AND HAVE ONEE AT THE END OF EACH SHEET
Hello. Post-frame is really different than conventional stick building. Window and door headers aren’t load bearing. Also, we don’t have top plates for conventional rafters to transfer load to. Instead, 9’ on-center rafters transfer load directly to 9’ on-center posts. Quite a different approach, and it definitely looks strange if you’re used to looking at conventional stick buildings.
How do you the protect the base palte from rotting? Or how to prevent air/bugs from comming in?
We have two stacks of 2x6 grade board. The first is a composite material; the second is pressure treated lumber. Neither should rot. Just in case, we wrap both with sub-grade waterproofing (Poly-Wall) to ensure they last forever. We have a couple videos of the Poly-Wall process if you keep watching.
@@wanderwoodfarm3801 have you consider using seal seal foar for the base plate? For wood and concreate connection. Coz you know in wooden houses. The one that rotten first is the base plate. So why not prevent water from reaching the wood to start with, rather than just rely on pressure treated wood. Just my two cents...
Yah. Totally agree. We ended up doing that, using a product called Poly-Wall. You can see it in video 68. We would’ve installed it earlier, but the adhesive is temperature dependent. And winter was coming. :)
Was that Sketchup?
Yep :) We model everything on SketchUp. We haven’t built before, and it’s a lot easier to find and correct our many mistakes in SketchUp.
Tape will fail long term.
ZIP system tape is superior but the ZS 2.0 they use black caulking now on seams and fasteners.
@11:47: What's the deal with that door header?
Not sure what you’re looking at exactly. The header is just two 2x6 stacked. There’s a set of 2x6 wrapped around the interior walls at approx 8’ up that we’ll use to secure interior cladding. Perhaps that’s what you’re seeing?
@@wanderwoodfarm3801: I've never seen a header with the boards flat vs up on their edges. Seems weaker, but I'm sure you considered your options, and maybe that meets code where you are.
Ah. I get it. Yah, they ARE weaker. But that’s okay. In a post-frame building, they have no load-bearing requirement. Their only job is to hold the door. In fact, most pole barns seem to only use one 2x6 flat. We doubled up because our doors are heavy and we didn’t want wall bounce when we slam the door.
I agree with the commenter. Regardless of the application, no competent framer would stack the door headers in this manner.