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I recommend to replace the axle seal at the same time when you are replacing the axle. 9 out of 10 times when you remove the old axle it will damage the old axle seal and will leak shortly after if not until a few weeks later or so or until next service there could be seepage or a somewhat large enough leak. That is why I replace it every time I remove or replace the axle(s). Sometimes you can get away with it, but most of the time it can leak. Sometimes you get lucky and it doesn't leak sometimes you don't. You can drain the transmission fluid from the pan if you want to prevent making a mess because some transmission fluid will come out when you pull out the axle(s) and make a big mess. So it is up to you if you want to drain the fluid first or just pull the axle out and clean up the spillage and top up what came out at the end of the repair.
A question: how are these axles holding up? I hear people routinely denigrating aftermarket axles. What's been your experience with them? WHich brand do you think is best?
The axles are doing pretty well. Lately, I have been seeing that aftermarket brand new axles are better than the OEM axles on vehicles believe it or not. Once in a long while or blue moon I may have an axle with a slight vibration at a certain RPM like 3200 to 3600 RPM or something so I just exchange it for a different one and that usually happens on ones with unequal lengths axles such as on the passenger side like on these vehicles. Any time I replace an axle it is usually because the original OEM axle has failed or is bad. Some OEM axles will last a long time and some won't. It also depends on the driving conditions and driver abuse. Any kind of repetitive abuse to the axles will ruin it regardless if it is OEM or aftermarket. I use Trakmotive (SurTrack) and Cardone axles. Only use brand new ones never use remanufactured axles. Remanufactured axles are nothing but problems. Aftermarket axle companies have gotten better over the years and they are much better now than say a decade ago.
A question, Moose: is it really necessary to "unstake" the drive axle nut? It might help but it seems to me that the metal is rather soft so if you use a strong impact, it should spin right off. Do you agree? (I have never done this before.)
Yes and no. Depends if you are reusing the axle or not. Otherwise, the threads could get damaged. Some axles I haven't unstaked and there is no damage and some the threads get damaged. The axle nut will typically unstake itself, but you're best to unstake it before removal to make it easier to remove and to prevent damage unless you are replacing it.
So... The seal has to be flushed with the transmission case lip??? I changed that seal twice now because it kept leaking, but i wasn't even paying attention to that little detail. Will try to get it flush instead of tapping it all the way in!!
So I am guessing having the seal flush with the transmission lip fixed your leak? I put my seal all the way inside trans and the rubber from upper seal doesn't close tight with the lip of CV axle.
@@ericgarcia7768 Thanks! I'm going through the same thing. Time to buy another seal and hopefully this time I get it seated correctly. Thanks for the reply.
This vehicle does not have ABS. Sometimes the tone ring will interfere with installation inside the steering knuckle sometimes it won't. If the axle won't go into the hub then you need to remove the tone ring.
The axles could definitely cause that on acceleration only. I would also check the steering and suspension and all engine/transmission mounts just to make sure everything checks out OK.
Those axles are brand new not rebuilt. The remanufactured ones are usually junk. I've used many of the new ones on a variety of vehicles and haven't had any issues. Some I've been using for years and works longer and even better than the OEM ones.
No problem. The only thing I can say is sometimes there may be vibration problems with some axles, but lately the ones I've been using I've had no issues with them.
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2005 Toyota Corolla - Driver's Side CV Drive Axle Replacement
ua-cam.com/video/rwvG0tNwOVI/v-deo.html
I need to replace the near side driveshaft and wish to do the work myself. With the correct tools and your great video I can. Thank you very much.
another great teaching video here. thank you. May i ask why you change axle seal ? is it leaking.
why drain the tranny fluid ? thanks
I recommend to replace the axle seal at the same time when you are replacing the axle. 9 out of 10 times when you remove the old axle it will damage the old axle seal and will leak shortly after if not until a few weeks later or so or until next service there could be seepage or a somewhat large enough leak. That is why I replace it every time I remove or replace the axle(s). Sometimes you can get away with it, but most of the time it can leak. Sometimes you get lucky and it doesn't leak sometimes you don't.
You can drain the transmission fluid from the pan if you want to prevent making a mess because some transmission fluid will come out when you pull out the axle(s) and make a big mess. So it is up to you if you want to drain the fluid first or just pull the axle out and clean up the spillage and top up what came out at the end of the repair.
A question: how are these axles holding up? I hear people routinely denigrating aftermarket axles. What's been your experience with them? WHich brand do you think is best?
The axles are doing pretty well. Lately, I have been seeing that aftermarket brand new axles are better than the OEM axles on vehicles believe it or not. Once in a long while or blue moon I may have an axle with a slight vibration at a certain RPM like 3200 to 3600 RPM or something so I just exchange it for a different one and that usually happens on ones with unequal lengths axles such as on the passenger side like on these vehicles.
Any time I replace an axle it is usually because the original OEM axle has failed or is bad. Some OEM axles will last a long time and some won't. It also depends on the driving conditions and driver abuse. Any kind of repetitive abuse to the axles will ruin it regardless if it is OEM or aftermarket.
I use Trakmotive (SurTrack) and Cardone axles. Only use brand new ones never use remanufactured axles. Remanufactured axles are nothing but problems. Aftermarket axle companies have gotten better over the years and they are much better now than say a decade ago.
One question, what do I know the name of the tool to remove the gasket ring from the cv axcel to the transmission?
I believe the tool you're talking about is an axle seal puller tool to remove seals out of transmissions.
@@moosemobileautorepair thanks.
A question, Moose: is it really necessary to "unstake" the drive axle nut? It might help but it seems to me that the metal is rather soft so if you use a strong impact, it should spin right off.
Do you agree? (I have never done this before.)
Yes and no. Depends if you are reusing the axle or not. Otherwise, the threads could get damaged. Some axles I haven't unstaked and there is no damage and some the threads get damaged. The axle nut will typically unstake itself, but you're best to unstake it before removal to make it easier to remove and to prevent damage unless you are replacing it.
So... The seal has to be flushed with the transmission case lip??? I changed that seal twice now because it kept leaking, but i wasn't even paying attention to that little detail. Will try to get it flush instead of tapping it all the way in!!
So I am guessing having the seal flush with the transmission lip fixed your leak? I put my seal all the way inside trans and the rubber from upper seal doesn't close tight with the lip of CV axle.
@@themachamp6015 yeah it sits flush in there. It's been a year and no more leaks.
@@ericgarcia7768 Thanks! I'm going through the same thing. Time to buy another seal and hopefully this time I get it seated correctly. Thanks for the reply.
Gracias! muy buen video!
Whats the purpose or removing the abs tone ring?
This vehicle does not have ABS. Sometimes the tone ring will interfere with installation inside the steering knuckle sometimes it won't. If the axle won't go into the hub then you need to remove the tone ring.
My Corolla shakes when accelerating… do you think changing the axle will fix the problem?
The axles could definitely cause that on acceleration only. I would also check the steering and suspension and all engine/transmission mounts just to make sure everything checks out OK.
This manual transmission?
Automatic.
Good luck with those Chinese rebuild CV joint shaft.
Those axles are brand new not rebuilt. The remanufactured ones are usually junk. I've used many of the new ones on a variety of vehicles and haven't had any issues. Some I've been using for years and works longer and even better than the OEM ones.
Thank you for the replay. It's always nice to know.
No problem. The only thing I can say is sometimes there may be vibration problems with some axles, but lately the ones I've been using I've had no issues with them.
Hello, good video, where did you buy the axle shaft?