In my experience, carbon is a no brainer for durability. I've cracked, bent or had issues with needing frequent truings on aluminum rims. On my carbon sets, I have not had one issue and have to check tension maybe 1x a season vs 3-5x a season. In this instance, adding the extra volume and reducing weight, it is a win all around if your budget allows on any bike IMO.
I bought the swb recently ….partly due to your reviews. Fits my riding and I’ll probably have that bike for life. Now I’m contemplating selling my full sus for either a lwb or carbon 27.5 wheel set, since that bike is collecting dust now.
@ Lwb seems to be the general consensus amongst Jones owners. I’m using the swb as an all terrain bike with the smooth tires. I would only consider the lwb as a mountain bike although I’m sure it’s great all around. It’s tough to ride anything else after a jones because the bike is so comfortable!
Not sure if I'm remembering your use case right, but if I do then the SWB was the right choice for you. If you're going to sell your dedicated mountain bike though, I'd maybe take another look at the LWB because it definitely leans more into that side in my experience.
@@RideYearRound that’s correct and I was also replying to the commentor above. Currently playing around with fitment first of the current full sus. It’s a nice bike. However the jones experience has been eye opening and I could see the lwb being my dedicated mtb. Your reviews are awesome!
Thanks again for another great vid. If I may add to it a little - I just built and am testing a mediumJones LWB with truss fork, steel all around. 3.25 duro crux on ican carbon "enduro" wheelset (32 holes 45/50 width on the rims). I'm 5'11', 160lbs, short torso, long legs - as my wife says I'm built like a sasquach. Coming from a rigid Krampus size large with 29x3.0 wtb rangers. The Krampus always made me feel like I was reaching too far no matter how I set it up. I'm still experimenting with different handlebars/stems/seatposts, etc, on the Jones, but it looks like I'm going to settle on the jones bars with the stock suggested stem position except slightly shorter to accommodat my short torso. It's super comfortable, totally dif. bike. As for how the truss fork feels - I didn't have a straight fork to test it against, but the bike overall feels like it can run over anything and turns like it's on rails. It is very long so it's not as sensitive to fore/aft body positioning. I.e. - I haven't really needed to stand while climbing, which is major because you can get more weight on the back end for traction without lifting the front. Downhills, turns, everything, feels like "any corner, any speed," which in a way can be bad because you end up going faster than you normally would. Climbing is a little rougher with the weight of these huge tires, but horses for courses. Funny thing: I cracked a rear carbon rim last weekend on this bike - the first one ever. I hit a rock on a huge dropoff I took faster than usual. Yes, my brand new Ican . Caught it just right, no tire damage. New rim on order.
I may do that later in the winter. We've been lucky to have so much dirt to still ride, but it'll come sometime soon and then I wouldn't be able to give them a proper test until probably March.
Want!!! Everything Jones Bikes bring out is right on my wavelength, I'm glad they're out there making this stuff. You don't have any insider knowledge about 29 x 3.8 tyres do you? I did notice on the new Moonlander promo they said there was space to fit 27.5 x 4.8 tyres, so that also makes me wonder if they might be down the pipe as well.... lol 👍👍
My biggest concern with my 29 plus durocs for the carbon wheels is finding tire replacements. My only plan was to stock up on durocs for the next 40 years
Do you have any experience with 26+? I recently discovered the stridsland journal and their beachcomber frame and it seems really interesting to me, but I wonder if the wheels have good enough rollover and how different it is from other setups (e.g. fat, 27,5+, 27,5)
I don’t, but kind of wish I did. There’s a big difference in the way 29+ and 27.5+ ride so I would expect it to be about the same there (decent float, noticeably less roll over, quicker to spin up, more playful).
The SWB and LWB actually both use a 68mm bottom bracket. I haven’t confirmed it but I’m guessing it probably rubs but just ever so slightly. I actually didn’t even notice it while riding, only when doing some adjusting of things in the stand.
Have you tried cushcore with the Duro Crux? I run the non-tubeless Crux with Cushcore and i45 rims. No rim strikes and traction like velcro on the trail!
The more tire volume you have the more 1 PSI makes a difference. So 1 PSI on a 2.2 tire is hardly noticeable, but on a 3.0 tire, you notice it, and on a 4.8 tire like my Fat Bike has, 1 PSI makes a big difference.
I’m one that believes, #widerisbetter. I haven’t splurged on carbon rims wider than my Stan Baron CB7 i35, also with ONYX hubs.So on my wheel sets with 2.8 to 3” tires I use i40 and i45 RACEFACE ARC alloy rims and Berd Spokes. FYI, I would love to build up a set of those Jones carbon rims with Berd Spokes and ONYX hubs.
I would be careful about going too wide in the rear. I have a medium LWB and SRAM GX 1x. With C-rims and 3.25" Bulldozers, I cannot get into the biggest cog without chain rub on the sidewall. One solution might be a wider Q crank to put the chainring a bit more outboard. Another would be 3" tires rather than 3.25", although that might really square off the rear tire profile. If that is ok for you, then go for it -- the C-rims are very well made.
@@ericpmoss Yeah I mention that chain rub toward the end. I don't think I would've even noticed it if I hadn't seen it in the work stand and it's only on the lower section of chain which has no tension, but its definitely something to be aware of.
@ I’m ok with 3” tires and have used 2.8” on i45 rims and it works fine. As for rear tire clearance it is really dependent on your setup with your BB, your spindle, the chain stay clearance, free-hub and cassette. I chose to only use an 46t and don’t use the big 50t stuff. Maybe that helps too.
14 днів тому
30mm front 27mm back mullet works for me for touring and adventure is ok it all depends on the terrain you drive on
I ridden 29+ tires for 10+ years. I've tried all the tire widths and a few different rim widths. In my experience, the best 29+ setup was a 2.8 tire on an i35mm rim with a 2.6 tire on an i30 rim being a close second. Probably something in between the two would be ideal. If that first 29+ Surly Krampus had rolled off the factory floor with a 2.7 tire on an i33 rim, I believe Plus bikes and specifically 29+ bikes would have been more popular. Any thing wider than a 2.7 tire on an i33 rim is just too heavy and too slow rolling. Surly got the Plus movement off to a bad start by going too wide. In addition, 27.5+ was a total failure because even 29x2.4 on an i30 rim was just better. Many of the advantages of a 29+ tire is that it is taller not wider. I would love see a taller 30.5x2.4 tire/wheel combo which would be the same height as a 29x3.0 tire. WTB has been prototyping 30.5 (750d) wheels.
Totally disagree on everything in that first paragraph. Maybe that fits you and your riding style, but after riding around on some skinny 2.6" tires after years on 3.0 and 3.25s, I'd never willingly trade you 2.6 regardless of true plus size tire and rim weight. 29 plus is more comfortable and has more float. 2.7" and skinnier is a nice commuter bike width.
Carbon fiber as a material is highly durable. We build fighter jets out of it. The problem is carbon fiber tubes built to be paper thin for Europeans on starvation diets racing up mountains
In my experience, carbon is a no brainer for durability. I've cracked, bent or had issues with needing frequent truings on aluminum rims. On my carbon sets, I have not had one issue and have to check tension maybe 1x a season vs 3-5x a season. In this instance, adding the extra volume and reducing weight, it is a win all around if your budget allows on any bike IMO.
I bought the swb recently ….partly due to your reviews. Fits my riding and I’ll probably have that bike for life. Now I’m contemplating selling my full sus for either a lwb or carbon 27.5 wheel set, since that bike is collecting dust now.
Ooooh that’s a tough decision!
@ Lwb seems to be the general consensus amongst Jones owners. I’m using the swb as an all terrain bike with the smooth tires. I would only consider the lwb as a mountain bike although I’m sure it’s great all around. It’s tough to ride anything else after a jones because the bike is so comfortable!
Not sure if I'm remembering your use case right, but if I do then the SWB was the right choice for you. If you're going to sell your dedicated mountain bike though, I'd maybe take another look at the LWB because it definitely leans more into that side in my experience.
@@RideYearRound that’s correct and I was also replying to the commentor above. Currently playing around with fitment first of the current full sus. It’s a nice bike. However the jones experience has been eye opening and I could see the lwb being my dedicated mtb. Your reviews are awesome!
Thanks again for another great vid. If I may add to it a little - I just built and am testing a mediumJones LWB with truss fork, steel all around. 3.25 duro crux on ican carbon "enduro" wheelset (32 holes 45/50 width on the rims). I'm 5'11', 160lbs, short torso, long legs - as my wife says I'm built like a sasquach. Coming from a rigid Krampus size large with 29x3.0 wtb rangers. The Krampus always made me feel like I was reaching too far no matter how I set it up. I'm still experimenting with different handlebars/stems/seatposts, etc, on the Jones, but it looks like I'm going to settle on the jones bars with the stock suggested stem position except slightly shorter to accommodat my short torso. It's super comfortable, totally dif. bike. As for how the truss fork feels - I didn't have a straight fork to test it against, but the bike overall feels like it can run over anything and turns like it's on rails. It is very long so it's not as sensitive to fore/aft body positioning. I.e. - I haven't really needed to stand while climbing, which is major because you can get more weight on the back end for traction without lifting the front. Downhills, turns, everything, feels like "any corner, any speed," which in a way can be bad because you end up going faster than you normally would. Climbing is a little rougher with the weight of these huge tires, but horses for courses. Funny thing: I cracked a rear carbon rim last weekend on this bike - the first one ever. I hit a rock on a huge dropoff I took faster than usual. Yes, my brand new Ican . Caught it just right, no tire damage. New rim on order.
It would be cool to see a Jones truss fork review. Reviews of those are almost nonexistent. A Spaceframe review also be great.
I’d love to try those both out as well and see how different they ride!
@RideYearRound Hit Jeff up about it. Maybe he would like to have you review them. The exposure is great for him and his bikes 👍
I may do that later in the winter. We've been lucky to have so much dirt to still ride, but it'll come sometime soon and then I wouldn't be able to give them a proper test until probably March.
Want!!! Everything Jones Bikes bring out is right on my wavelength, I'm glad they're out there making this stuff. You don't have any insider knowledge about 29 x 3.8 tyres do you? I did notice on the new Moonlander promo they said there was space to fit 27.5 x 4.8 tyres, so that also makes me wonder if they might be down the pipe as well.... lol 👍👍
29x3.8 or 27.5x4.8…I’d take either haha
My biggest concern with my 29 plus durocs for the carbon wheels is finding tire replacements. My only plan was to stock up on durocs for the next 40 years
Yeah I do worry about that a little for sure. Hopefully there are enough players around to keep a few options in production.
What action camera do you use? Your POV footage looks really good!
Thanks! It’s the DJI Action 4
Do you have any experience with 26+? I recently discovered the stridsland journal and their beachcomber frame and it seems really interesting to me, but I wonder if the wheels have good enough rollover and how different it is from other setups (e.g. fat, 27,5+, 27,5)
I don’t, but kind of wish I did. There’s a big difference in the way 29+ and 27.5+ ride so I would expect it to be about the same there (decent float, noticeably less roll over, quicker to spin up, more playful).
I love my carbon wheels with the ti truss fork. The bike is everything lwb/hde
Subscribed! Great bike, awesome trails! Where is this?
Thanks for subscribing! This is in SW Montana near Butte.
I imagine the tire rub is prolly related to the 68 mm BB 🤔. I wonder if it happens with the SWB and the 83 mm BB?
The SWB and LWB actually both use a 68mm bottom bracket. I haven’t confirmed it but I’m guessing it probably rubs but just ever so slightly. I actually didn’t even notice it while riding, only when doing some adjusting of things in the stand.
Have you tried cushcore with the Duro Crux? I run the non-tubeless Crux with Cushcore and i45 rims. No rim strikes and traction like velcro on the trail!
I haven’t, in fact I’ve never run cushcore at all!
@@RideYearRound Hopefully some come your way! They really make sense on a rigid bike or on the rear of a hardtail.
The more tire volume you have the more 1 PSI makes a difference. So 1 PSI on a 2.2 tire is hardly noticeable, but on a 3.0 tire, you notice it, and on a 4.8 tire like my Fat Bike has, 1 PSI makes a big difference.
Great flow on that bike with those wheels. It almost seemed you had a fork up front.
I’m one that believes, #widerisbetter. I haven’t splurged on carbon rims wider than my Stan Baron CB7 i35, also with ONYX hubs.So on my wheel sets with 2.8 to 3” tires I use i40 and i45 RACEFACE ARC alloy rims and Berd Spokes. FYI, I would love to build up a set of those Jones carbon rims with Berd Spokes and ONYX hubs.
Plus tires, wide rims, and Berd spokes sound like they’d ride like a dream!
I would be careful about going too wide in the rear. I have a medium LWB and SRAM GX 1x. With C-rims and 3.25" Bulldozers, I cannot get into the biggest cog without chain rub on the sidewall. One solution might be a wider Q crank to put the chainring a bit more outboard. Another would be 3" tires rather than 3.25", although that might really square off the rear tire profile. If that is ok for you, then go for it -- the C-rims are very well made.
@@ericpmoss Yeah I mention that chain rub toward the end. I don't think I would've even noticed it if I hadn't seen it in the work stand and it's only on the lower section of chain which has no tension, but its definitely something to be aware of.
@ I’m ok with 3” tires and have used 2.8” on i45 rims and it works fine. As for rear tire clearance it is really dependent on your setup with your BB, your spindle, the chain stay clearance, free-hub and cassette. I chose to only use an 46t and don’t use the big 50t stuff. Maybe that helps too.
30mm front 27mm back mullet works for me
for touring and adventure is ok it all depends on the terrain you drive on
I wish Jones bike would be sold internationally!....They're practically impossible to source outside the US.
Panaracer makes a tire in 3.5" width.
I've only seen those in 27.5, not 29, but I did want to give that size a shot...I think it'd be a really interesting combo on this rim width.
@@RideYearRound i'd be interested in a review of that tire.
I ridden 29+ tires for 10+ years. I've tried all the tire widths and a few different rim widths. In my experience, the best 29+ setup was a 2.8 tire on an i35mm rim with a 2.6 tire on an i30 rim being a close second. Probably something in between the two would be ideal. If that first 29+ Surly Krampus had rolled off the factory floor with a 2.7 tire on an i33 rim, I believe Plus bikes and specifically 29+ bikes would have been more popular. Any thing wider than a 2.7 tire on an i33 rim is just too heavy and too slow rolling. Surly got the Plus movement off to a bad start by going too wide.
In addition, 27.5+ was a total failure because even 29x2.4 on an i30 rim was just better. Many of the advantages of a 29+ tire is that it is taller not wider. I would love see a taller 30.5x2.4 tire/wheel combo which would be the same height as a 29x3.0 tire. WTB has been prototyping 30.5 (750d) wheels.
I agree the height is the more important factor, but on a fully rigid bike I think the float/traction is a pretty close second.
Totally disagree on everything in that first paragraph. Maybe that fits you and your riding style, but after riding around on some skinny 2.6" tires after years on 3.0 and 3.25s, I'd never willingly trade you 2.6 regardless of true plus size tire and rim weight. 29 plus is more comfortable and has more float. 2.7" and skinnier is a nice commuter bike width.
Carbon fiber as a material is highly durable. We build fighter jets out of it. The problem is carbon fiber tubes built to be paper thin for Europeans on starvation diets racing up mountains