Don't change engine oil like this!! in this video i will be showing you drain oil vs suction pump, which one better and which one will give you complete oil drain
That's the one, mine is an "Autospeed" unit from Lidl although I have seen it under several different names. My vacuum pump is a Kayoba unit but I have seen the same pump online with at least five different names. But both electric and vacuum pumps are brilliant.
Honestly you say don't change your oil like this , but for a diy-er that's the best way . And they don't have to worry about someone screwing them over.
Depends on the design of the oil pan. Several cars get more oil out this way. Plus that little bit of oil won't matter if you have a proper filter and change your oil on time.
That's right, vehicles like Harley's and other motorcycle's that have an oil tank that's separate from the engine have almost a half of a quart that trapped inside the engine's bottom end that doesn't get drained when changing oil and it's no kind of life changing event with them. People make too big of a deal out of stuff like that, changing your oil and filter at regular intervals is the most important thing, a little bit of oil trapped in something somewhere isn't going to hurt anything outside of people's imaginations and paranoia.
@@TheBypasser i also did this and surprisingly after some days i looked at the bottom of the cam and i saw a lot of deposits and mess , i think it s better like this and change the oil filter then running without oil change or at 30k km , some people just don't bother
@@cristianJoker2512 I see no reason to do this at all. What are the gains? Saving on a new drain plug and the service cost itself - yet all for a potential price of a massive motor repair or replacement? So I just do my oil changes every 8 000 km along with the filter of course, and always through the drain plug. Indeed, why any other way around? Every motor has a drain plug, a probe channel and an oil lid, each serving one's own purpose - now doing it differently is like brushing your teeth through your rear. Can it be done? Technically, yes, as there is an interconnection path in between. Now, should it be done? Well, no - for a reason so obvious. Why nobody does this, yet drains the motor oil by some unintended means is a big question, although technically it is the same thing as the teeth example ;)
I always make sure the engine is hot first, or at least very warm, then check the oil level before I start, that way I know how much oil I should have in the can when I've finished the change and know it's all out. I also use it to change gearbox and axle oil's, brilliant for European Fords with no drain plugs and PAS reservoirs. I also have a smaller unit I use to bleed brakes and fluid flushes. I've been using electric and vacuum pumps for twenty five years without any problems.
Well I was actually talking about other cars with splash/ rock guards a 2.7 disco has the filter between the V on top of engine so dead handy anyway! Oh the other reason if the filter was behind a skid plate I wouldn't even buy the car lol not so young and a bit of arthritis in my hands these days too.
@@endurofan9854yes. I've seen skid plates in a couple of places. If heard of many times where people have punctured a hole in their oil pan. Or caused significant damage to another major component. They're basically a shield for your large drivetrain parts.
@@Techcensorshipbot there’s purpose built machines for this that are meant to handle oil well over operating temp. This pump is not at all meant for this.
I have a vacuum suction pump for oil changes. Checked several vehicles out of curiosity to see how much it had missed in the sump. In all cases there was next to nothing missed
Those soft vinyl or neoprene tubing do not always stay straight down when they reach the bottom of the oil pan and thus not able to pull the rest of the oil out. Try using a stiffer polyethylene tubing instead next time. FYI, polyethylene tubing usually comes coiled up. You will need to straighten the portion that goes into the oil pan first with a heat gun.
You're never truly gonna get all of the old oil out of the engine anyway, so I could see this helping older folks or people with disabilities, although this would work best for them with an oil filter relocation on most vehicles, most oem manufacturers design their oil pans to retain about a half a quart or more when being drained level, that's to prevent immediate failure if you forget to put the oil in. But you only get about a minute before all sorts of noises start happening that might not go away after adding the oil.
@@TopiasSalakka look I mean maybe there's some racecars out there that have a dry sump and they can actually benefit from this but I worked at a junkyard and I pulled countless engines and transmissions from all makes and models, and even if you pop a hole in the oil pan and leave an engine hanging to drain, you'd still have about a quart of oil in the damn engine somewhere. Especially when it's cold because the oil gets more viscous and sticks in the passageways.
@@Initial_Gopnik you always leave oil in valve cover, oil filter and internal passages of engine (and in oil pump and other hydraulic equipment such as VVTI and alike).
I was a marine tech for about 10 years in the late 70s/early80s. We had a stop made rig that used a Bendix electric fuel pump and a stainless reservoir. There is no telling how many gallons of oil I changed with that thing. Pumping oil through the dipstick tube was about the only way to change oil in many inboard and i/o engines. I made a rig similar to the one here with an empty jug and a hand vacuum pump. It worked great on removing most of some nasty stuff from an automatic transmission.
Iv a discovery , also most turbo cars have an oil cooler so there's always oil left over ! My one of those pumps gets 99% o just change the oil every 5k and filter once a year this more than makes up for anything left over ! Also I save nearly £50 labour and oil price is about £20 and filter £6.50 and I don't have to take a big rock plate off !
I personally wouldn't change my oil and leave a dirty filter on. I've even heard people suggesting to change the filter and top the oil off but not change the oil. Never done that either. But it makes more sense to me, espasically if you're using synthetic oil. Idk though. With normal/boring cars it's definitely a good idea to not waste resources. I personally don't have a car let alone a boring car. I ride Motos everytime I go anywhere.
If leave an old filter in-place, that filter is already partially-saturated. This means EVEN IF the bypass valve doesn't open, there is increased oil flow restriction through the filter. And if it gets to the point bypass valve opens, a bunch of filtered-out-junk now gets re-introduced into the oil, going through all your oil galleries, etc... Some people in 1990's/2000's talk about full syn oil able to last a long time, but still needs to change the filters regularly -- this is also a bad idea. Filters will still miss a bunch of fines in the oil. If change filter but leave the old oil in-place, that fines will build up in the oil system. Very few cars have two-filter setup that can deal with such things. But most cars have only a one-filter setup. Best to still change oil AND filter at same time.
@@reallifeengineer7214 he's changing oil at 5k which is likely way before the oil has particulate contamination. Most filters are designed for 12k miles or 1 year and modern oils hold particulates in suspension. The reasoning is that modern GDI engines and modern clean diesels suffer from fuel dilution, quite literally there is fuel in the oil and it seriously impacts how well the oil lubricates. This technique is fine actually that small amount of residual oil that isn't changed is not a problem. Occasionally removing the plug and draining is a good idea but this doesn't pose any problems change your oil 2x per year and you'll be fine.
Need a better pump or more sturdy hose to reach the bottom of the pan. This method definitely works great for vehicles with filters on top of the engine. If the filters underneath the car you might as well drain it normally though
@@SuperMotoMe Yeah...the same amount that's going to remain behind at that temperature regardless because of thermal viscosity and molecular cohesion no matter how you do it (unless you're willing to take the drain plug out and go inside for a nap.)
I've always done my oil changes, since like forever (10 vehicles) like this and never had any issues. Up till half a litre of old oil left in the oil pan won't matter. And if you're concerned about that, just change the oil slightly earlier.
in some cars like mine the drain plug is a bit higher and some oil stays inside , with this thing you can take almost all because the hose will reach the bottom.
Con este video me reafirmas de que no es tan malo. Que si que es mejor desenrroscar el tapón de abajo, pero en ciertas ocasiones puede ser conveniente o aceptable. Lo contrario de lo que indicas en el título del short.
Si ponen el carro en desnivel. En mí caso pongo las dos ruedas izquierdas en la acera de caminar. Y casualmente mi calle es suavemente empinada hacía abajo. Esto hace que el.aceite se mueva a la esquina del carter del.lado derecho. Y logro sacar todo el aceite. Claro depende del carro el mío tiene el varillaje se medir el aceite cerca de esa esquina derecha del carter. Lo otro no se les oscura comprar esa bomba electrica son senda cagadas la mía duro 3 cambios de aceite. El o-ring interno no sirve. Compre una bomba manual que hace un vacio y chupa el aceite y de paso la mete en el recipiente. La bomba manual es muchisisisimo mejor. No se daña. Y es más limpio que la electrica mostrada acà en este video que requiere pasar el aceite a un recipiente. Y hacer un reguero alrededor. La bomba mostrada acá es remala. Y de paso. Sacar el aceite con el carro a nivel como se muestra deja aceite adentro del carter. Yo no tengo ese problema.
@@tempk490 it also helps the bearing surfaces share a lil extra metal with eachother, and as we know sharing is caring. What better way to be tolerant right?
I used to adopt this method to pump the fluid out, it just too easy and tidy. I managed to suck 4L from a 2017 Benz C200 every time, there's still some left behind (believe less than 1L). I think it is fine as my approach is shorten the changing interval by 1000km or 1 month.
You read my mind. That is what I do plus put my car uneven so the oil go in a corner of the carter. I have 2 years without need take out the nut of the carter. Plus do a less interval the oil change. No more mess LoL
I don't know Mercedes well but assuming C200 means C300 (that's their 'entry level' offering in the US... there wasn't a 2017 C200 here but the C300 came with a 2 L turbo I4), capacity is about 7 L.
I learned it's also better to drive the vehicle for about 20 miles just before changing the oil, that way it's not only hot, but more contaminants come out, and you get most of the oil out!!
last oil change I did hot just because but not on purpose and it seemed better and faster draining (motorcycle if it makes a difference). definitely don't have to ride that far for the engine to be really hot though with my bike.
@@yeolblt he suggesting that the cold oil leaves more gunk in the engine, and that the hot oil has more gunk within it. I'd like to see this theory tested personally.
Let's think that over? Drive for about 10,20,30 whatever just drive and get the oil on temperature. When back drain the oil,because? What's the difference when the day before the oil drain I drove 30 miles, parked the car back home,next day I change the oil, because then I know for sure almost all the oil is in the drain pan at the bottom of the car. Which way is better?
Tested sucking out the oil on my pro master. It gets more out than the drain plug will and I can do it all from up top and the oil filter is also up top. Pulled the plug after and not one drop came out.
And a lot of euro cars also recommend 10,000-12,000 mile intervals. Doesn't make it smart. (I see a lot of 10-15 year old Japanese and American vehicles on the road but it seems like the German ones are rarely older than 5-6 years... wonder why...)
Some manufacturers has this method with the correct equipment as standard procedure. Do your homework and look it up, like 90% of the new cars has this as standard now. Old didnt.
Catching all the oil via the drain plug can cause such a mess if you accidentally knock the catching pan so I decided to use this method first. When I removed the drain plug I got about 3 drips, nothing left behind. Used this method ever since. One point to note, the end of the insert tube should not be straight across or it could be sucking against the metal and you may think it has finished because the oil flow stops.
atleast the pumps get a majority of the oil out perhaps minus a quart or less which i do consider sufficient. most quick lube places dont fully drain all oil not to mention whats above from driving there. the absolute best thing is to plan a day and let the vehicle sit overnight so all oil returns to the pan than drain and refill this assures all old oil is out. dont forget that filter as well.
If you use the correct tool for vacuum extraction you can suck the oil sump as dry as if you drained it through the sump plug. and if you have a smart car you have no choice but to vacuum extract it! now I must add that I agree on some engines there can be residual oil left in the sumpPan I agree, but on some engines the drain plug is raised slightly off the bottom (some college genius design), so for those engines it would be an advantage to vacuum extract it! I am old school though and still like to extract a bit out of the sump pan drain at the end to visually inspect the oil for contaminates and metal particles as that bit of shiny black liquid gold can speak words for how a motor is looking inside! Great video
@@brianconner3222 oh I remember when it was an u written law that engine designers put the drain plug at the lowest point, lord only know why some genius decided not only to mount it horizontally but part way up the pan! Designers these days make techs wish to fall head first into the pit!
These pumps are designed for boats because you can't get to the drain plug if you boat still has one. I've done this twice a year for 7 years with my boat...
I mean depends. When the car manufacturers RECOMMENDS changing oil with extraction method you SHOULD do it because it’s best for the engine and it’s designed to be extracted, but when in manual it says to be drained, drain it. Secondly if you’re doing an oil extraction you should do it with a specialized equipment that’s maybe expensive but is designed to do it properly.
On my 2006 Toyota Corolla, I always squeeze out even more oil by lifting the front end of the car. The oil drain plug is installed higher than the bottom of the oil pan.
@@dbongoloid9541 That was the point of the Demonstration, clown. I've been in the motor trade for 45yrs. And yes I have a scavenge pump, I actually use it on certain occasions. The point he " proved" was that when used on some vehicles it doesn't empty all of the old lubricant. It's not Rocket science, Asshoe.
I have this exact pump and it leaks oil inside the housing due to its design. I have to place a blue paper towel inside to absorb the spillage of oil and I change the paper towel out after a few uses.
BMW or Mercedes tells you to change their oil like this, I would worry about sludge which hangs out at the bottom of oil pan. If you're going to do it this way do it when all the oil has drained back into the pan but still warm and mixed up and not so thick.
How often do you see Mercedes and BMW's driving around that are more than 5 years old? Compared to how many Japanese and American cars that more than 10 years old?
@@ExaltedDuck This is true but there are less of them anyway do to initial cost of those vehicles at least in the states plus the upkeep on them doesn't lend itself to be a good 2nd hand used vehicle. That being said I've see some of those old 80's diesel Mercedes still going strong and I'm not talking about restored one's either those things are tanks.
@@adamscott9725 One of my college roommates had one about 20 years ago that was about 20 years old at the time. It was hideous... repainted to navy blue from the original beige, and done with rollers without removing the trim. but it had something 280,000 miles on it. Wouldn't be surprised if it's still out there somewhere...
Some of us don’t have the luxury of a nice garage to do your vehicle maintenance so I use this method easier on the bones at my age and less mess underneath
Vw, audi and so many cars have the filter up top, so you can do complete oil change without ever going under the car, using an actual oil extractor not a blow up mattress pump though
@@jonjong7651 just wanted to say that I was using (for at least 5 oil changes) that exact same chinese pump in my w204 c-class and it was able to remove all of the oil from it 😅
@@malan07 yeah after an hour and the pump overheating a few times. I've had to do it before on a Merc ML320 because the underpan bolts were spinning, took after an hour and fucked the pump and my back from holding it up due to too much of a hight difference in pretty hot weather, pretty lightheaded afterwards
@@herozero8809 I used a manual pump and it didn't take an hour, maybe 15 minutes because i forgot to pump it halfway through, and also the pan holds 8 liters.
@@TopiasSalakka a manual pump is different and works ok, just a bit slow in comparison to just draining the oil normally, I was talking about the little 12v oil pumps.
I'm no fluid expert, but odds of that small amount of oil between the two lines at the end probably doesn't contaminate the clean oil much at all. When they want to charge 85 for a simple oil change, I'd go this route for a couple rounds and then bring it in.
Yo hacía eso hasta que me canse ,.mucho reguerro y trabajo. Lo otro de llevarlo al.taller es.que apreten mucho la tuerca y jodan la.rosca interna del.carter. si se daña eso yo lloro literalmente 😆 no que va. Yo saco todo.el.aceite colocando el carro en desnivel. El.aceite va a una esquina del carter y la.saco.con una bomba manual que de paso tiene su propio deposito. Me tardo 10 a 15 minutos incluyendo cambiar el filtro. Eso si jamas de lo jamases.compre esa bomba electrica mostrada en el video a mí me duro 3 cambios de aceite. Son muy malas. Laa buenas son las manuales.
Its useless to remove all old engine oil, thats what the filter there for. Sometimes sucking and/or flushing engine oil can cause different types of damage
I only did this like 15 years ago with a peristaltic pump when my friend overtorqued his buick skylak 2.5L engine so he JB welded the spun oil bolt. lol
You can absolutely change oil like this. It purely depends on if your car was designed to have the oil changed like this or not. Absolutely nothing wrong with following manufacturer specification though. These little electric pumps are absolute garbage
Most say warm the engine, but modern synthetic oils are more "thinner" even when cold than fossil oils from years ago that were "thick" when cold, and if you let the engine go cold more of the oil will drip down to the sump, or am I wrong!
...why not? Who the hell cares about a few dozen ml of extra oil left? Changing oil regularly will be substantially more beneficial than that extra cup of oil...
Cars that arent meant to do this style of oil change shouldnt do this. Also it would help if u had a stronger pump and made sure on a level floor or a floor angles the oil towards the oil dipstick. Like other comments have said the oil pan and dipstick are designed in mind to have this style of oil removal as their standard maintenance procedure. Not all cars can have this done this way.
Can you do us lot a favour? Angle the car to the dip stick tube so on the passenger rear wheel, a ramp, curb or a jack then try that again.. I’m defo not a fan of sucking the oil out but just wondering if would make a difference and get that little bit out.
Metal tozları içinde kaldı ama olmazki hepsini alttaki tapadan boşaltırsan karterdeki yabancı maddeler de akıntıya kapılıp dışarı atılması lazım doğrusu bu
Detailed video: ua-cam.com/video/70zR_Doi1ag/v-deo.html
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Not draining the worst in the oil pan!
That's the one, mine is an "Autospeed" unit from Lidl although I have seen it under several different names.
My vacuum pump is a Kayoba unit but I have seen the same pump online with at least five different names.
But both electric and vacuum pumps are brilliant.
Honestly you say don't change your oil like this , but for a diy-er that's the best way . And they don't have to worry about someone screwing them over.
If you leave it longer and have the hose in the right position it will get all the oil. I think it was HumbleMechanic who proved it on his channel.
Yes, but it depends on the car oil system design.
Depends on the design of the oil pan. Several cars get more oil out this way. Plus that little bit of oil won't matter if you have a proper filter and change your oil on time.
That "little bit" is actually also the dirtiest one though ;)
That's right, vehicles like Harley's and other motorcycle's that have an oil tank that's separate from the engine have almost a half of a quart that trapped inside the engine's bottom end that doesn't get drained when changing oil and it's no kind of life changing event with them.
People make too big of a deal out of stuff like that, changing your oil and filter at regular intervals is the most important thing, a little bit of oil trapped in something somewhere isn't going to hurt anything outside of people's imaginations and paranoia.
@@TheBypasser i also did this and surprisingly after some days i looked at the bottom of the cam and i saw a lot of deposits and mess , i think it s better like this and change the oil filter then running without oil change or at 30k km , some people just don't bother
@@cristianJoker2512 I see no reason to do this at all. What are the gains? Saving on a new drain plug and the service cost itself - yet all for a potential price of a massive motor repair or replacement? So I just do my oil changes every 8 000 km along with the filter of course, and always through the drain plug. Indeed, why any other way around? Every motor has a drain plug, a probe channel and an oil lid, each serving one's own purpose - now doing it differently is like brushing your teeth through your rear. Can it be done? Technically, yes, as there is an interconnection path in between. Now, should it be done? Well, no - for a reason so obvious. Why nobody does this, yet drains the motor oil by some unintended means is a big question, although technically it is the same thing as the teeth example ;)
Some Mercedes were designed for their oil to be changed like this
That's also how outboard motors get their oil changed, completely normal and harmless to the engines & I've done it before.
I always make sure the engine is hot first, or at least very warm, then check the oil level before I start, that way I know how much oil I should have in the can when I've finished the change and know it's all out.
I also use it to change gearbox and axle oil's, brilliant for European Fords with no drain plugs and PAS reservoirs. I also have a smaller unit I use to bleed brakes and fluid flushes.
I've been using electric and vacuum pumps for twenty five years without any problems.
Don't you have to prime the pump first so it lasts longer ?
This would be really handy for pulling fluid out of differentials when you don’t want to pull the cover :)
Probably blow that pump up.
Well I was actually talking about other cars with splash/ rock guards a 2.7 disco has the filter between the V on top of engine so dead handy anyway! Oh the other reason if the filter was behind a skid plate I wouldn't even buy the car lol not so young and a bit of arthritis in my hands these days too.
@nigeldlm
whats a skid plate?
is it the one underneath the engine?
@@endurofan9854yes. I've seen skid plates in a couple of places. If heard of many times where people have punctured a hole in their oil pan. Or caused significant damage to another major component. They're basically a shield for your large drivetrain parts.
I use a hand pump from harbor freight its cheap and effective fir oil transfer
yeah doing oilchange while oil is so cold & viscous is genius
,😂
No, get it piping hot so it will melt the plastic pump, and the hose perhaps.
@@BenVanAmburg if the pump and tubes can’t handle that heat, they’re probably using the incorrect type of equipment for it🤔
You run it for a few minutes to get the oil up in temp. Not to where it’s at operating temp.
@@Techcensorshipbot there’s purpose built machines for this that are meant to handle oil well over operating temp. This pump is not at all meant for this.
I have a vacuum suction pump for oil changes. Checked several vehicles out of curiosity to see how much it had missed in the sump. In all cases there was next to nothing missed
Some Audi this is the only way to change oil
Dude use the correct machine and it'll work
Right?
Warm, oil, proper pump, and get to the bottom of the pan.
Easy Peasy.
Those soft vinyl or neoprene tubing do not always stay straight down when they reach the bottom of the oil pan and thus not able to pull the rest of the oil out. Try using a stiffer polyethylene tubing instead next time. FYI, polyethylene tubing usually comes coiled up. You will need to straighten the portion that goes into the oil pan first with a heat gun.
Good call
You're never truly gonna get all of the old oil out of the engine anyway, so I could see this helping older folks or people with disabilities, although this would work best for them with an oil filter relocation on most vehicles, most oem manufacturers design their oil pans to retain about a half a quart or more when being drained level, that's to prevent immediate failure if you forget to put the oil in. But you only get about a minute before all sorts of noises start happening that might not go away after adding the oil.
@@Initial_Gopnik You can extract all of it on an engine designed for it.
@@TopiasSalakka look I mean maybe there's some racecars out there that have a dry sump and they can actually benefit from this but I worked at a junkyard and I pulled countless engines and transmissions from all makes and models, and even if you pop a hole in the oil pan and leave an engine hanging to drain, you'd still have about a quart of oil in the damn engine somewhere. Especially when it's cold because the oil gets more viscous and sticks in the passageways.
@@Initial_Gopnik you always leave oil in valve cover, oil filter and internal passages of engine (and in oil pump and other hydraulic equipment such as VVTI and alike).
A na końcu i tak wykręca śrubę :D
I was a marine tech for about 10 years in the late 70s/early80s. We had a stop made rig that used a Bendix electric fuel pump and a stainless reservoir. There is no telling how many gallons of oil I changed with that thing. Pumping oil through the dipstick tube was about the only way to change oil in many inboard and i/o engines.
I made a rig similar to the one here with an empty jug and a hand vacuum pump. It worked great on removing most of some nasty stuff from an automatic transmission.
Id already have the new filter on and fresh oil in before that pump is even done sucking, would be handy for trans fluid though.
Yeah, seems like it would take longer this way only to still jack it up and pull the plug in the end.
It comes out way faster if the oil is hot. I used an oil extractor at a friends house and it was like sucking water.
Iv a discovery , also most turbo cars have an oil cooler so there's always oil left over ! My one of those pumps gets 99% o just change the oil every 5k and filter once a year this more than makes up for anything left over ! Also I save nearly £50 labour and oil price is about £20 and filter £6.50 and I don't have to take a big rock plate off !
Pricey labour just to change oil! Makes DIY so worthwhile :)
I personally wouldn't change my oil and leave a dirty filter on. I've even heard people suggesting to change the filter and top the oil off but not change the oil. Never done that either. But it makes more sense to me, espasically if you're using synthetic oil. Idk though.
With normal/boring cars it's definitely a good idea to not waste resources. I personally don't have a car let alone a boring car. I ride Motos everytime I go anywhere.
@@Whitejesselink Exactly!
If leave an old filter in-place, that filter is already partially-saturated. This means EVEN IF the bypass valve doesn't open, there is increased oil flow restriction through the filter.
And if it gets to the point bypass valve opens, a bunch of filtered-out-junk now gets re-introduced into the oil, going through all your oil galleries, etc...
Some people in 1990's/2000's talk about full syn oil able to last a long time, but still needs to change the filters regularly -- this is also a bad idea. Filters will still miss a bunch of fines in the oil. If change filter but leave the old oil in-place, that fines will build up in the oil system. Very few cars have two-filter setup that can deal with such things. But most cars have only a one-filter setup.
Best to still change oil AND filter at same time.
@@reallifeengineer7214 he's changing oil at 5k which is likely way before the oil has particulate contamination. Most filters are designed for 12k miles or 1 year and modern oils hold particulates in suspension.
The reasoning is that modern GDI engines and modern clean diesels suffer from fuel dilution, quite literally there is fuel in the oil and it seriously impacts how well the oil lubricates.
This technique is fine actually that small amount of residual oil that isn't changed is not a problem. Occasionally removing the plug and draining is a good idea but this doesn't pose any problems change your oil 2x per year and you'll be fine.
Need a better pump or more sturdy hose to reach the bottom of the pan. This method definitely works great for vehicles with filters on top of the engine. If the filters underneath the car you might as well drain it normally though
That Toyota's filter is on the bottom.
Great way to waste time during an oil change. This process is like escaping from the mature responsibility.
It was meant to show you how much oil remained behind.
What's not mature about finding an easier way of doing it?
@@SuperMotoMe Yeah...the same amount that's going to remain behind at that temperature regardless because of thermal viscosity and molecular cohesion no matter how you do it (unless you're willing to take the drain plug out and go inside for a nap.)
I've always done my oil changes, since like forever (10 vehicles) like this and never had any issues. Up till half a litre of old oil left in the oil pan won't matter. And if you're concerned about that, just change the oil slightly earlier.
in some cars like mine the drain plug is a bit higher and some oil stays inside , with this thing you can take almost all because the hose will reach the bottom.
I always just raise the front of my car a little higher than the rear.
That seems to help the oil drain better.
The latest engine block design should allow clean extraction of oil through the hole with ease.
Used to change oil with a vacuum pump on lawnmowers at a place I used to work at.
Con este video me reafirmas de que no es tan malo.
Que si que es mejor desenrroscar el tapón de abajo, pero en ciertas ocasiones puede ser conveniente o aceptable.
Lo contrario de lo que indicas en el título del short.
Si ponen el carro en desnivel. En mí caso pongo las dos ruedas izquierdas en la acera de caminar. Y casualmente mi calle es suavemente empinada hacía abajo. Esto hace que el.aceite se mueva a la esquina del carter del.lado derecho. Y logro sacar todo el aceite. Claro depende del carro el mío tiene el varillaje se medir el aceite cerca de esa esquina derecha del carter. Lo otro no se les oscura comprar esa bomba electrica son senda cagadas la mía duro 3 cambios de aceite. El o-ring interno no sirve. Compre una bomba manual que hace un vacio y chupa el aceite y de paso la mete en el recipiente. La bomba manual es muchisisisimo mejor. No se daña. Y es más limpio que la electrica mostrada acà en este video que requiere pasar el aceite a un recipiente. Y hacer un reguero alrededor. La bomba mostrada acá es remala. Y de paso. Sacar el aceite con el carro a nivel como se muestra deja aceite adentro del carter. Yo no tengo ese problema.
i would prefer this super easy method.
Not a whole lot of difference in oil but you'd still have to change the oil filter.
I personally just take the oil filter off and let it run for a few minutes. Seems to get the most out.
Same, really shakes the oil off of everything 👍
@@tempk490 it also helps the bearing surfaces share a lil extra metal with eachother, and as we know sharing is caring. What better way to be tolerant right?
Just run the engine with the oil fill cap open and pour new oil in at the same amount that shoots out. Once it's clean oil shooting out you're done.
Вся грязь в карторе осталось.
Он слил остатки.
У меня такой же насос. Откачивает больше, чем можно сшить через пробку
The oil is drained out of the oil pan not the crank case.
@@andropovvlist кому ты чешешь
I used to adopt this method to pump the fluid out, it just too easy and tidy.
I managed to suck 4L from a 2017 Benz C200 every time, there's still some left behind (believe less than 1L). I think it is fine as my approach is shorten the changing interval by 1000km or 1 month.
You read my mind. That is what I do plus put my car uneven so the oil go in a corner of the carter. I have 2 years without need take out the nut of the carter. Plus do a less interval the oil change. No more mess LoL
I don't know Mercedes well but assuming C200 means C300 (that's their 'entry level' offering in the US... there wasn't a 2017 C200 here but the C300 came with a 2 L turbo I4), capacity is about 7 L.
I learned it's also better to drive the vehicle for about 20 miles just before changing the oil, that way it's not only hot, but more contaminants come out, and you get most of the oil out!!
last oil change I did hot just because but not on purpose and it seemed better and faster draining (motorcycle if it makes a difference). definitely don't have to ride that far for the engine to be really hot though with my bike.
If ambient temperature isn't low, oil drains fine as it's designed to flow well. So no need to warm it up before changing
@@yeolblt he suggesting that the cold oil leaves more gunk in the engine, and that the hot oil has more gunk within it. I'd like to see this theory tested personally.
Correct. That's what I was taught and always run the engine upto temperature before changing oil and filter.
Let's think that over?
Drive for about 10,20,30 whatever just drive and get the oil on temperature.
When back drain the oil,because?
What's the difference when the day before the oil drain I drove 30 miles, parked the car back home,next day I change the oil, because then I know for sure almost all the oil is in the drain pan at the bottom of the car.
Which way is better?
Nothing seems to draw more comments and expert opinions than a video or forum suggestion regarding oil.
Standard VAG practice. If performed properly, a great way to change engine oil.
Awesome for small tractors and lawn mowers but for cars Nah easier doesn’t mean better
Si vous changez l'huile de cette façon, vous devrez faire la vidange plus régulièrement pour garder le moteur propre.
Brother can you make Transmission fluid change video on Camry and Front shocks and struts
Brotger, Transmission fluid for 2018 camry coming soon for now, but the others, I can't tell
Ali camiry 2019 se ya bra chawareten bra😁😁😁
Light the Camry on fire and get a Honda American muscle 💪
Tested sucking out the oil on my pro master. It gets more out than the drain plug will and I can do it all from up top and the oil filter is also up top. Pulled the plug after and not one drop came out.
It’s actually the recommended way to change the oil on a lot of euro cars
And a lot of euro cars also recommend 10,000-12,000 mile intervals. Doesn't make it smart. (I see a lot of 10-15 year old Japanese and American vehicles on the road but it seems like the German ones are rarely older than 5-6 years... wonder why...)
В чём логика?? Если он всёравно открутил сливную пробку поддона чтобы слить остатки???
Видимо показать нам бесполезность этой приблуды.
If you happen to be driving on a small asteroid that has almost no gravity; this method would be recommended.
Thank you very much for that information
False.
You can use this method but you need to open drain plug to drain the remaining oil.
Better to drain it out the bottom. Gravity will get out more junk than summing it up.
They put drain plug for a reason.!!
They make these pumps for a reason
@@dingbop963 which reason?
@@ellyg7550stripped or damaged drain plug
You have to do boats this way.
No es más fácil sacar el tapón y ya . Menos gastos en comprar eso
Some manufacturers has this method with the correct equipment as standard procedure. Do your homework and look it up, like 90% of the new cars has this as standard now. Old didnt.
Catching all the oil via the drain plug can cause such a mess if you accidentally knock the catching pan so I decided to use this method first. When I removed the drain plug I got about 3 drips, nothing left behind. Used this method ever since.
One point to note, the end of the insert tube should not be straight across or it could be sucking against the metal and you may think it has finished because the oil flow stops.
So on the new Skoda’s how do you do an oil change as they don’t have a sump plug ??
Which skoda does not have a drain plug? Never heard of this before
great for fluid,changes usually done on the transmission band power steering
It takes a long time until the oil empties. Go back to the first method, which is the best way
atleast the pumps get a majority of the oil out perhaps minus a quart or less which i do consider sufficient. most quick lube places dont fully drain all oil not to mention whats above from driving there.
the absolute best thing is to plan a day and let the vehicle sit overnight so all oil returns to the pan than drain and refill this assures all old oil is out.
dont forget that filter as well.
Also vw audi engines have an extra 1/2 pint in the oil cooler below the oil filter which pulling the sump plug doesn't get out.
If you use the correct tool for vacuum extraction you can suck the oil sump as dry as if you drained it through the sump plug. and if you have a smart car you have no choice but to vacuum extract it! now I must add that I agree on some engines there can be residual oil left in the sumpPan I agree, but on some engines the drain plug is raised slightly off the bottom (some college genius design), so for those engines it would be an advantage to vacuum extract it! I am old school though and still like to extract a bit out of the sump pan drain at the end to visually inspect the oil for contaminates and metal particles as that bit of shiny black liquid gold can speak words for how a motor is looking inside! Great video
if you're lucky, with Trailblazer & Envoy, the drain plug comes out vertically, rather than at an angle!!
@@brianconner3222 oh I remember when it was an u written law that engine designers put the drain plug at the lowest point, lord only know why some genius decided not only to mount it horizontally but part way up the pan!
Designers these days make techs wish to fall head first into the pit!
I've changed the oil (and filter) on smart cars a few times without a vacuum pump. We don't have any at the shop I work at.
These pumps are designed for boats because you can't get to the drain plug if you boat still has one. I've done this twice a year for 7 years with my boat...
I mean depends. When the car manufacturers RECOMMENDS changing oil with extraction method you SHOULD do it because it’s best for the engine and it’s designed to be extracted, but when in manual it says to be drained, drain it. Secondly if you’re doing an oil extraction you should do it with a specialized equipment that’s maybe expensive but is designed to do it properly.
why not just do both?
Because it’s a waste of time
Its fine
On my 2006 Toyota Corolla, I always squeeze out even more oil by lifting the front end of the car.
The oil drain plug is installed higher than the bottom of the oil pan.
Why did it say don't
I mean, you still took the drain plug out.... would have been 12x faster than this bullshit.
He was showing how much oil was left in the sump after the pump had supposedly drained it.
It ain't rocket science bud.
@@tonymercer265 goof ball, only certain car models can be drained from the top. This isn't one of those models, genius.
@@dbongoloid9541 That was the point of the Demonstration, clown.
I've been in the motor trade for 45yrs.
And yes I have a scavenge pump, I actually use it on certain occasions.
The point he " proved" was that when used on some vehicles it doesn't empty all of the old lubricant.
It's not Rocket science, Asshoe.
I have this exact pump and it leaks oil inside the housing due to its design. I have to place a blue paper towel inside to absorb the spillage of oil and I change the paper towel out after a few uses.
Some German car manufacturers state that oil changes should only occur with a pump. BMW, Merc, and I believe Audi on some models.
BMW or Mercedes tells you to change their oil like this, I would worry about sludge which hangs out at the bottom of oil pan. If you're going to do it this way do it when all the oil has drained back into the pan but still warm and mixed up and not so thick.
except my n20 doesn't even have fk dipstick
How often do you see Mercedes and BMW's driving around that are more than 5 years old? Compared to how many Japanese and American cars that more than 10 years old?
@@ExaltedDuck This is true but there are less of them anyway do to initial cost of those vehicles at least in the states plus the upkeep on them doesn't lend itself to be a good 2nd hand used vehicle. That being said I've see some of those old 80's diesel Mercedes still going strong and I'm not talking about restored one's either those things are tanks.
@@adamscott9725 One of my college roommates had one about 20 years ago that was about 20 years old at the time. It was hideous... repainted to navy blue from the original beige, and done with rollers without removing the trim. but it had something 280,000 miles on it. Wouldn't be surprised if it's still out there somewhere...
The drain plug is there for a REASON!
These pumps are made for a reason
@@dingbop963 those pipe are made for any reason, but the engine drain plug has only one reason
Some of us don’t have the luxury of a nice garage to do your vehicle maintenance so I use this method easier on the bones at my age and less mess underneath
Не понимаю какой смысл 🤷...не проще ли выкрутить сливную пробку...
А они всё через жопу делают
These don’t take out all the oil like you think it does. And if you still have a 10k oil in there. The acids will drop your TBN significantly
What's tbn?
You still have to get the filter so why bother?
Vw, audi and so many cars have the filter up top, so you can do complete oil change without ever going under the car, using an actual oil extractor not a blow up mattress pump though
@@jonjong7651 just wanted to say that I was using (for at least 5 oil changes) that exact same chinese pump in my w204 c-class and it was able to remove all of the oil from it 😅
@@malan07 yeah after an hour and the pump overheating a few times. I've had to do it before on a Merc ML320 because the underpan bolts were spinning, took after an hour and fucked the pump and my back from holding it up due to too much of a hight difference in pretty hot weather, pretty lightheaded afterwards
@@herozero8809 I used a manual pump and it didn't take an hour, maybe 15 minutes because i forgot to pump it halfway through, and also the pan holds 8 liters.
@@TopiasSalakka a manual pump is different and works ok, just a bit slow in comparison to just draining the oil normally, I was talking about the little 12v oil pumps.
I'm no fluid expert, but odds of that small amount of oil between the two lines at the end probably doesn't contaminate the clean oil much at all. When they want to charge 85 for a simple oil change, I'd go this route for a couple rounds and then bring it in.
Q ganas de complicar las cosas sra. Ese carro no trae un tapón en el cárter?
Yo hacía eso hasta que me canse ,.mucho reguerro y trabajo. Lo otro de llevarlo al.taller es.que apreten mucho la tuerca y jodan la.rosca interna del.carter. si se daña eso yo lloro literalmente 😆 no que va. Yo saco todo.el.aceite colocando el carro en desnivel. El.aceite va a una esquina del carter y la.saco.con una bomba manual que de paso tiene su propio deposito. Me tardo 10 a 15 minutos incluyendo cambiar el filtro. Eso si jamas de lo jamases.compre esa bomba electrica mostrada en el video a mí me duro 3 cambios de aceite. Son muy malas. Laa buenas son las manuales.
Mannol defender 😉
Doing it this way leaves more particulates at the bottom of oil pan.. Don't do it
I will now change my oil that way
Its useless to remove all old engine oil, thats what the filter there for. Sometimes sucking and/or flushing engine oil can cause different types of damage
I only did this like 15 years ago with a peristaltic pump when my friend overtorqued his buick skylak 2.5L engine so he JB welded the spun oil bolt. lol
Smart 450 only like that you can change oil,
Or have to change the engine crankcase, which has a drain plug
An oil change is still better than no oil change or late changes.
I’m pretty sure Walmart has been doing this forever. As long as you use the correct size hose you’re good.
Смысл откачивать в данном случае, если все равно пробку поддона откручивать? Ну слил бы так, и всё.
он показал сколько можно слить после откачки
Это называется, хотел наеб... но не получилось.
مبدع ❤
شكرا
Sometimes this is the only way to change the crankcase oil on an engine installed deep within boat hull.
Oh no! So much oil left in there! It will damage my poor engine.
Only way to get the oil out of a huge number of both petrol and diesel marine inboard engines as drain plugs are so close to the hull.
You gotta get under to change the filter anyway. Also, if there were metal chunks in your oil, this may be less likely to alert you.
Filter is on the top of a lot of engines these days. Pretty common for dealers to do topside oil changes.
Это дни мелькали на канистре?
You can absolutely change oil like this. It purely depends on if your car was designed to have the oil changed like this or not. Absolutely nothing wrong with following manufacturer specification though. These little electric pumps are absolute garbage
차량 마다 차이가 있으니...아우디는 상관없이 딥스틱쪽에서 뽑아도됨.
As long as the engine's warm there's no problem.
I'm confused. Is it a Do or Don't ???
Open drain plug! Gravity always works better 😌 !
Most say warm the engine, but modern synthetic oils are more "thinner" even when cold than fossil oils from years ago that were "thick" when cold, and if you let the engine go cold more of the oil will drip down to the sump, or am I wrong!
...why not? Who the hell cares about a few dozen ml of extra oil left? Changing oil regularly will be substantially more beneficial than that extra cup of oil...
You need a hot engine and thin fully synthetic engine oil5w 30 or less and work the tube, never fails even with a hand vacuum pump.
*oil pan baffles has entered the chat*
Cars that arent meant to do this style of oil change shouldnt do this. Also it would help if u had a stronger pump and made sure on a level floor or a floor angles the oil towards the oil dipstick. Like other comments have said the oil pan and dipstick are designed in mind to have this style of oil removal as their standard maintenance procedure. Not all cars can have this done this way.
Oil didn't need changing. Was still good for a few more thousand miles... Still quite clean tbh
on my subaru crosstrek, the oil pan plug is not in the bottom. so, there's always a little bit of oil .... not with a pump
Can you do us lot a favour? Angle the car to the dip stick tube so on the passenger rear wheel, a ramp, curb or a jack then try that again.. I’m defo not a fan of sucking the oil out but just wondering if would make a difference and get that little bit out.
The filter is on the bottom in this instance so you’d still be lifting it up 💀💀
В итоге с поддона еще почти пол литра, покупка насоса не оправдана.
У меня сливная пробка находится немного выше чем можно откачать через щуп. Чисто, быстро, экономно. Кипили на две машины за 1500₽
Я через насос откачиваю больше, через пробку сливается
У жены наоборот
What was even the point of sucking it out through the dipstick tube if you still went down and removed the drain plug anyway?
Metal tozları içinde kaldı ama olmazki hepsini alttaki tapadan boşaltırsan karterdeki yabancı maddeler de akıntıya kapılıp dışarı atılması lazım doğrusu bu
You still have to go underneath to change the filter .