I've not got any CNC stuff, but the mention of airbrush compressors brings back some happy memories. Long before anything digital existed, long before Gimp and Photoshop and Inkscape, airbrushes were THE way to produce cool graphics. Incredibly hard to do well, slow and frustrating, but with a few years of practice (and a great deal more skill than I possess) you could get some astonishing results. I wasn't a professional artist and haven't got much talent, but I've still got my old Iwata HP-B (independent double-action) brush and a pretty decent silent compressor (ultra-smooth delivery of dry, filtered air is vital). I still paint the occasional weird Dali-esque landscape populated by little squiggly amorphous blobby bio-creatures. It's fun, but a bored 10 year-old kid with a PC could probably produce similar images in 30 minutes. But it wouldn't be the same. I ought to do something for UA-cam, but I'm too busy watching UA-cam.
We use the Fogbuster on our Tormach at work. It's critical for cooling and evacuating chips when using endmills 1/8" and under! I like your idea to use the airbrush compressor!
@@samuraimachinetools We didn't like the mess it made regarding cleanup and the machine rusting afterward. I suppose we could have looked harder for a better coolant that didn't cause rust. For now we just use a concentrated water-based solution.
Hey Robert, Can you give me a little more information on your Airbrush compressor? Could you show it running on camera and give us an idea how loud it is?
what was the rough tube lengths? I am going to do a similar setup, but guessing fogbusters default 5' hose lengths will be too short. (4x10 avid pro). And... is the AL table necessary - can you not mount the vise directly to avid table, assuming you add additional cross members?
Do you have any issues with getting the coolent on the MDF? I have a completely MDF bed and am slightly worried that it will cause the MDF to swell up.
That's why I have a hybrid bed (1/3 aluminum, 2/3 MDF). But I'm using isopropyl alcohol for coolant, so it's less of an issue with the MDF. There's very little 'moisture' after the cut. The chips are dry and it evaporates quickly (which is why it's good at cooling off the chips and cutting tool).
nice work! just wondering if you have tryd ethanol and if so how you find it compared to the isopropyl. i have the later and although most seem to use ethanol, id rather use what i have if its the same same but different type of scenario. thanks
Very nice video, many thanks! I am now looking at the schematics diagram for AVID's CRP850-00E breakout board. The FogBuster's solenoid switch requires 110v (default) but it is also available in 24v, AC or DC, 220v. So, I would imagine I need to take the 5V digital output line from AVID's breakout board (Relay#1, terminal 17/18) and send it to an external MOSFET (between AVID's board and the solenoid switch) for controlling the solenoid switch at 24v. Or use solid state relay instead for AC control of solenoid. Please could you let me know if I understand this correctly, and if this is the setup you have? Any advice will be much appreciated. Many thanks. AA from England
I just used one of the AC outlets on the unit. That was the easier way, since using 5V logic to control a relay to control a solenoid is a lot of extra steps. There are two controllable outlets on the bottom of the main control unit and I just used one of those.
@@RobertCowanDIY I'm building my Avid Benchtop pro 2X3 right now and just ordered a fogbuster thru the Tormach site. Tormach says not for use with alcohols. Have you run into any long term issues using IPA? I'm wondering if there is a materials compatibility/lubrication/corrosion issue or if they are worried about fire hazard. They also say no pure water so that sorta leans toward the former.
@@adamevil4282 I haven't had any issues. But it's of course a fire hazard, it's flammable. I'm not sure what exactly would break down with alcohol, but mine is still fine about a year later. YMMV!
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks, I've used qualichem and its great for cutting but the chips get sticky and cleanup is annoying. I'm looking forward to trying a cleaner option.
Nice video Robert. After doing a little research it looks like IPA does have a pretty large benefit for cutting aluminum, and I really like the idea of something that evaporates because I also have an AVID CNC machine that I use mostly for woodworking and I don't want cutting oil all over the place. I tried to find info on the flammability risk of this. I also have a large dust collector (1200 CFM) on a dust boot and I am kinda assuming that the low amount of IPA fumes in the very large flow of air makes it non-flammable. I was wondering if you have any data or information to back that up? I don't want to burn my shop down :-)
This is not scientific, but in very low concentrations, it should volatilize enough in the dust collection system that there wouldn't be enough to actually ignite to cause a problem. You'd be mixing a VERY small amount of it in a large volume of air, moving at high velocity, I just don't see it causing an issue. I run it into my dust collector, and I have yet to have an issue. YMMV!
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks Robert. Thats what I figured too. Just like everyone getting exited about static electricity causing an explosion in their dust collector pipes just because grain elevators blow up....very different concentration levels.
Follow up. I finally built my version of what you did. It works on brass very well and really improves cutting over a dry setup. Still have to try it out on Al. ua-cam.com/video/OvKh1Wmyr08/v-deo.html Thanks again for the idea of using IPA.
@@RobertCowanDIY How bad is the smell / vapors? I was thinking of using WD40 in a hdpe nalgene. I built my own fogbuster with some brass valves and a needle inflation nozzle in loc-line. I never use it because my compressor is too loud and kicks on every minute so I really like your air brush compressor solution.
@@aeroderek There are no vapors and no smell whatsoever. You don't need to use much, JUST enough to get a little on the tool, and that's it. The chips are dry, and there's no discernible smell at all.
I've not got any CNC stuff, but the mention of airbrush compressors brings back some happy memories.
Long before anything digital existed, long before Gimp and Photoshop and Inkscape, airbrushes were THE way to produce cool graphics. Incredibly hard to do well, slow and frustrating, but with a few years of practice (and a great deal more skill than I possess) you could get some astonishing results.
I wasn't a professional artist and haven't got much talent, but I've still got my old Iwata HP-B (independent double-action) brush and a pretty decent silent compressor (ultra-smooth delivery of dry, filtered air is vital).
I still paint the occasional weird Dali-esque landscape populated by little squiggly amorphous blobby bio-creatures. It's fun, but a bored 10 year-old kid with a PC could probably produce similar images in 30 minutes.
But it wouldn't be the same.
I ought to do something for UA-cam, but I'm too busy watching UA-cam.
I didn't even know you had a youtube channel! I missed seeing you on the internet.
Well back in the we call illuminuim aluminium I can see the difference between these materials but none the less great video
Great video Robert!
We use the Fogbuster on our Tormach at work. It's critical for cooling and evacuating chips when using endmills 1/8" and under! I like your idea to use the airbrush compressor!
Just out of interest, how come you don't use flood coolant?
@@samuraimachinetools We didn't like the mess it made regarding cleanup and the machine rusting afterward. I suppose we could have looked harder for a better coolant that didn't cause rust. For now we just use a concentrated water-based solution.
Hey Robert, Can you give me a little more information on your Airbrush compressor? Could you show it running on camera and give us an idea how loud it is?
Possibly. A video is probably the only way to do it.
what was the rough tube lengths? I am going to do a similar setup, but guessing fogbusters default 5' hose lengths will be too short. (4x10 avid pro). And... is the AL table necessary - can you not mount the vise directly to avid table, assuming you add additional cross members?
Great Video! Have you found a particular coolant for the Fogbuster that you prefer? I have seen Kool Mist 77 and Durakut 9000B promoted.
I use Kool Mist 77. It's OK I guess. Not bad enough for me to consider switching, and good enough to get a decent quality finish.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks Robert.
Do you have any issues with getting the coolent on the MDF? I have a completely MDF bed and am slightly worried that it will cause the MDF to swell up.
That's why I have a hybrid bed (1/3 aluminum, 2/3 MDF). But I'm using isopropyl alcohol for coolant, so it's less of an issue with the MDF. There's very little 'moisture' after the cut. The chips are dry and it evaporates quickly (which is why it's good at cooling off the chips and cutting tool).
@@RobertCowanDIY thanks!
nice work! just wondering if you have tryd ethanol and if so how you find it compared to the isopropyl. i have the later and although most seem to use ethanol, id rather use what i have if its the same same but different type of scenario. thanks
What are you using for cooling fluid? Thanks for going over everything.
isopropyl alcohol.
Very nice video, many thanks! I am now looking at the schematics diagram for AVID's CRP850-00E breakout board. The FogBuster's solenoid switch requires 110v (default) but it is also available in 24v, AC or DC, 220v. So, I would imagine I need to take the 5V digital output line from AVID's breakout board (Relay#1, terminal 17/18) and send it to an external MOSFET (between AVID's board and the solenoid switch) for controlling the solenoid switch at 24v. Or use solid state relay instead for AC control of solenoid. Please could you let me know if I understand this correctly, and if this is the setup you have? Any advice will be much appreciated. Many thanks. AA from England
I just used one of the AC outlets on the unit. That was the easier way, since using 5V logic to control a relay to control a solenoid is a lot of extra steps. There are two controllable outlets on the bottom of the main control unit and I just used one of those.
@@RobertCowanDIY Many thanks, this makes it a lot easier. Cheers, AA
Great work! What kind of lubricant/coolant do you use in the reservoir? That one that mixes 1:40 with water? And for mild steel too?
I use isopropyl alcohol. It works more as a coolant rather than lubrication. Works well for aluminum, I haven't cut steel on the machine yet.
@@RobertCowanDIY thanks Robert ! Cool idea !
@@RobertCowanDIY I'm building my Avid Benchtop pro 2X3 right now and just ordered a fogbuster thru the Tormach site. Tormach says not for use with alcohols. Have you run into any long term issues using IPA? I'm wondering if there is a materials compatibility/lubrication/corrosion issue or if they are worried about fire hazard. They also say no pure water so that sorta leans toward the former.
@@adamevil4282 I haven't had any issues. But it's of course a fire hazard, it's flammable. I'm not sure what exactly would break down with alcohol, but mine is still fine about a year later. YMMV!
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks, I've used qualichem and its great for cutting but the chips get sticky and cleanup is annoying. I'm looking forward to trying a cleaner option.
Nice video Robert. After doing a little research it looks like IPA does have a pretty large benefit for cutting aluminum, and I really like the idea of something that evaporates because I also have an AVID CNC machine that I use mostly for woodworking and I don't want cutting oil all over the place.
I tried to find info on the flammability risk of this. I also have a large dust collector (1200 CFM) on a dust boot and I am kinda assuming that the low amount of IPA fumes in the very large flow of air makes it non-flammable. I was wondering if you have any data or information to back that up? I don't want to burn my shop down :-)
This is not scientific, but in very low concentrations, it should volatilize enough in the dust collection system that there wouldn't be enough to actually ignite to cause a problem. You'd be mixing a VERY small amount of it in a large volume of air, moving at high velocity, I just don't see it causing an issue. I run it into my dust collector, and I have yet to have an issue. YMMV!
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks Robert. Thats what I figured too. Just like everyone getting exited about static electricity causing an explosion in their dust collector pipes just because grain elevators blow up....very different concentration levels.
Follow up. I finally built my version of what you did. It works on brass very well and really improves cutting over a dry setup. Still have to try it out on Al. ua-cam.com/video/OvKh1Wmyr08/v-deo.html Thanks again for the idea of using IPA.
Did you say that surfacing endmill was a "Gatron" brand?
Datron
What solution are you running in the fog buster
Currently, 90% isopopryl alcohol. It works great.
@@RobertCowanDIY How bad is the smell / vapors? I was thinking of using WD40 in a hdpe nalgene. I built my own fogbuster with some brass valves and a needle inflation nozzle in loc-line. I never use it because my compressor is too loud and kicks on every minute so I really like your air brush compressor solution.
@@aeroderek There are no vapors and no smell whatsoever. You don't need to use much, JUST enough to get a little on the tool, and that's it. The chips are dry, and there's no discernible smell at all.
Lol when he says he runs his fogbuster at 15psi. My jaw dropped. I run mine at closer to 75 psi.
Then that is no longer a Fogbuster, lmao. 12-15 psi is pretty standard.
Cnc Shootout
Tormach vs. Avid? They are quite different. I have an upcoming video where I talk about this more, stay tuned!
@@RobertCowanDIY CNC vs Waterjet
@@teurba-chiredfurrball787 Can we be involved in this shootout?
@@samuraimachinetools What?
@@teurba-chiredfurrball787 That's an interesting shootout. They do VERY different things.