Avid CNC Router Overview
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2019
- I finally got a CNC Router! I ended up buying an Avid CNC Pro 48x48 (formerly CNC Router Parts). So far I'm really liking it. In future videos, I will be using this for cutting aluminum and any parts that are larger than my Tormach can handle. I ended up purchasing the Pro Series 48x48 with Nema 34 steppers, and the 2.2KW spindle. Here's a link to the actual model:
www.cncrouterparts.com/pro4848...
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I picked up an Avid CNC (formerly CNC Router Parts) Pro 60120 machine yesterday, Sept. 9th 2019, in my small hatchback. I live fairly close, so I made 2 trips and it went well. Now I get the fun project of putting it together. I may not ever cut anything, I may just put it together, take it apart, and put it together again... just kidding, but it's gonna be a fun project. I was inspired by Adam Savage's Tested video of CNC Router Parts, then I caught Rainfall Projects' and Frank Howarth's project videos of putting these together and using them. It took me about a year from inspiration to picking it up, during which I caught this and other videos posted here. Keep up the good content, thanks.
I have an older model which I got several years ago. Great machine. I do like how they upgraded the stand/legs to 80/20 compared to square tubing option that was available in the past.
Best review on an avid cnc.
Good info. Thanks for sharing your perspective.
Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts and your machine. I was wondering what kind of
accuracy you are seeing in aluminum with this machine?
Thanks. Love the greyhounds.
I built an Open Builds 40x60 using NEMA24 HD steppers. I converted the belt drive to lead screws which work ok but at that length they do sag a little. Most of my work is in around the center so that pretty much negates the sag. I am considering switching from the 8mm leads to 10mm leads which should be considerably more rigid but ultimately would like to go to rack and pinion with DRO positioning. I also am using the 2.2 spindle but wish I had gone with the 1.8 to save a little weight. I notice a slight flex in my gantry when pushing my speeds and feeds a little hard. All totaled I’m probably around just under $5k into mine so far. That will change with future upgrades but for what it is and what it can do that’s a good price for a starter machine. If I had the extra $$$ I would have bought the AVID as it is a much beefier/rigid machine. Good video and thanks for sharing.
I just ordered a PRO4824 with the 12" Z-travel. Lead time is 5 weeks. My plan is to mount a low-profile milling vise where the top of the vise sits lower than the spoil board, and use the extra Z-travel to get down to the vise when I need it. If I need the full width, I can just place the spoil board over the vise. That's the plan, anyways. I've been talking with Avid and they told me there's some flexibility in how the spindle is mounted in relation to the Z-axis.
One thing I didn't realize is how high the top of the Z-axis is with the extended travel. Looks like it'd be pretty close to an 8-foot ceiling when it's all the way up.
Either way, I'm super excited. It's not my first CNC machine but it's a couple steps above what I've been using.
Thank you for the review sir
Great video!
Hi Robert, thank you for the great informative video. I am in process of ordering my Avid CNC. Are you still pretty happy with your machine? Anything that you wished was done differently? Also for working on aluminum what type of cooling system did you decide on?
That 4th axis can be built into the table.
A Well for the Trunnion Axis, and a very nice vacuum table insert could be imagined.
Really enjoyed this video, I have a Chinese ACCREK 6012 but after seeing this...I need one of these!
How to you like the 6012?
@@DavidJDeHaan I love it! 3.5 years of faithful service. Now I wish it was bigger, saving my pennies until I can afford their 50"x50" version. Anywhere near Charlotte, NC? You welcome to come see.
@@104Tomcat Thats quite the offer, I really wish I could but I'm on the opposite coast. I've been eyeing a 6012 for awhile now but there isn't a lot of good information available or local suppliers. Did you import the machine?
@@DavidJDeHaan I used ACCTEK and their shipping to handle the importing. It came in through the Port of Los Angeles then trucked into NC. I first called them, emailed them out of the blue, then I struck up a good conversation with "Jenny Yin". There I found all of the answers I could think and still get answers from her today. All said, she was great, though I think "user" info like mine is invaluable.
Thanks. Nice job.
help me on some facts on basic of robofight.how can i make my robot more efficient at pushing things?what should i use for 1-1.5 pound robot for that case?
Hi Robert, thankyou for the great review. I have been considering my options for CNC Router and had come to the conclusion that the Axiom AR8 Pro would meet my requirements. However, one thing did NOt float my boat was the fact that another company offers the ability to do "end on machining". You know Mortice and tennon as an example. After watching your video I immediately realized that there IS another choice. Thankyou AVID...and Robert for pointing it out ;-)
Does Avid offer a servo version at all?
Did you check the actual measurements of your Ali machining exercise?
I had a Tormach 1100 and found it to be very accurate but lacked RPM and the dovetails didn't float my boat either. But I did like the BT30 spindle.
I do live in Australia (not Austria) so shipping may be an issue!!
Again great video, it has sure got me thinking.
Peter
Rob gets on Battlebots...
Rob buys huge CNC router...
Do I smell a heavyweight coming?
Yay! Nice greyhounds!
Thanks! The brindle is Honey and the black boy is Zephyr. They're not too interested in the shop, but they like to come out and say hi occasionally.
Great video, thanks a lot. New subscriber here! (I'm at the early stage...just dreaming with my bench top CNC router! )
14:00 About the only things I would want to change with this CNC, is the size of the box that holds the main controller. I would want the box to be roughly 25% taller than it is which would allow me to add in a couple PC fans to keep everything inside that box a bit cooler. The other would be taller risers for the gantry which would allow you to take full advantage of your Z axis's range of motion. I'm sure that if taller risers were needed you could very easily make your own for much less than retail parts would cost.
Great information
Thank you for your great videos. I am in process of ordering my Avid machine. Are you still happy with your machine? anything I should consider before ordering my machine?
VERY NICE,EXPENSIVE TOY....I WANNA HAVE IT TOO!
Hello I have a question on your avid machine. I'm getting ready to order one and was talking with a few other CNC companies and they said it you frame is not welded steel it will flex. Have you seen any things like this with you CNC router set up? Thanks
I need one of these. I have no reason to have one, but I need it...
Great review Robert! I bought the exact same machine last year and I use mine primarily for cabinet making. It was an incredible experience and a lot of fun assembling it. I did retrofit mine with a vertical table on the front end for boring dowel holes in the edges of wood panels. And that works very well. I also built a mobile rack out of 80/20 extrusions to house the two electronic enclosures and my laptop. I wanted to get them up higher and off the ground for easier serviceability, and to help keep wood chips and dust away from those enclosures as much as possible.
Hi Tom, I want to buy an Avid CNC 48x48 machine.
how does it work?
where did you buy it?
how much did it cost?
Thank you very much for the help.
Alberto
@@albertojimenez9603 Hi Alberto. The Avid Pro 4848 that I purchased direct from Avid CNC for 10k a little over a year ago has been working flawlessly. If I had the room in my shop I would have gone with the 48 x 96. However, I'm planning on a move to a bigger shop next year and since the Pro versions can be easily expanded, I will most likely take my current machine up to a 48 x 120.
very curious how it runs with UCCNC instead of Mach 3 or 4... I run UCCNC on a smaller router and love the interface. It's much closer to the Haas screen I'm used to. I have been looking into the Avid 60 x 60 for some time now. Thanks for the great review and you thoughts.
UCCNC have worst controller what have market, mach3 i has before not safe and good, linuxcnc have lot lot better flexiple and true REALTIME safe machine. and lot addons tools,softwares,etc.
Are those gear-tracks comparable, in terms of backlash problems, with the great accuracy offered by ball-screws?
I don't have much experience but I used to have a ballscrew on my y axis that would have around 0.001'' backlash whereas on the x axis, which was much longer I had a gear-track with a backlash of 0.006-0.007''. I would tend to say that the ballscrew is much better in terms of backlash. It does cost quite a bit more though.
Hey Robert I love your channel. I am thinking about either the 4848 or the 6060 version of this machine. Is there any reason you didn't go for the 5'x5' vs the 4'x4' ?
I'm not really a woodworker and all the plywood I've worked with has just been 4x4. No reason other than that.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks for the reply. Keep up the great work!
Great video thank you for sharing 👍👍👍 is that machine belt driven?
belt have good only laser,small cnc, plasma cutting table, not real cnc used newer. need be ballscrew machine.
Has anyone put closed loop 34's on an Avid yet?
change only motors and drivers and set up controller all new and need 10x more money. closed loop motors and drivers have lot expensive.
Refreshing to see a person tell you the price instead of playing the price hide game!
The 48x48 is $4,300.00 on the Avid website... wonder what got this to go to 11,000.00!?
That's just the frame. Add the motors, controller, spindle, and legs to get to $11K.
waste lot money than idiot, 11K uh, less than 1000$ can build better cnc machine same or what u want size, 2K can build own dream machine what have ALL what cnc need.
Can you post the inside of the electrical box. I know it uses ethernet smoothstepper controller, but which breakoutbox and additional boards does it use
Check the video, I show the insides. The breakout is custom.
mesa ethernet card have best but expensive cost 200-300$ then can use linuxcnc lot better than mach 3 or 4.
for Z and Y axis, i saw the proximity sensor installation position and mounting type, what if they do not work or if we set a higher reference speed, i m just afraid the sensor will be hit and broken, will that happen ?
There are bumpers to prevent over-travel that would damage the sensors.
@@RobertCowanDIY okay that would be great
Just bought this exact model.
Looks like an awesome machine there, Matt! I'm looking at the moment as well... Would you mind sharing the price please? I'd have to import to New Zealand though, so could become really expensive! Thanks!
@@rickyracer8717 depends on what options you get. Expect around $10k
OoOoOoO New tools. Enjoy! Looks awesome.
Not sure if you have seen the Microjig matchfit dovetail router bit to make a sweet spoil board
I just got Pro4x4 for our robotics team and still setting things up. Can you share why you hated the Mach3? I have Mach4, but was curious. Also... I haven't fastened the spoil board to table yet and noticed you didn't put fasteners near sides of table along Y axis. Was there a reason for that or is that what AvidCNC suggests?
So are you planning on getting the 4th axis in the near future?
I'm not specifically planning on the 4th axis as I don't currently have a need for it, but I'm definitely LOOKING for an excuse to have one ;-)
wow .. nice
Are you still happy with it and what would change if you were going to order it today? thanks for the video, very helpful!
I would maybe have gotten the shorter Z axis, but I feel like I've gotten used to that. I would MAYBE go bigger, but I'm OK with the footprint right now, and haven't run into any size issues, yet. Overall, very pleased.
Is the legs, the gantry and everything you assembled by yourself is Rigid? On 0 to 10 how many would you rate when it's comes to rigidity?
I mean, define rigid. enough for wood, yes. enough for aluminum, depends. For wood, 10/10. For aluminum, it depends on what you're doing, but maybe 7/10?
I have designed and built CNC similar to yours, except WAY more robust. Water-jet cut pieces in combination with aluminium extrusions, using linear rails with ball screws, 2.2kW machine, 4x Nema34 with feedback control and complete metal assembly without a single welding.
Total cost? 1900 dollars for 1000x1600x180 working area. Hate to bring it up, but if you paid 11.000 dollars for this, they scammed you.
At least I hope it serves you well. :)
Congrats. I'm kinda calling bullshit, but I'll believe you until I see proof otherwise. $1900 doesn't go a long way if you're getting quality components.
@@RobertCowanDIY It's definitely all cheap Chinese parts.
true has scammed LOT i build open loop motors same size cnc less than 1000$ 1500x1500x300mm
@@RobertCowanDIY been 2 years, still fully functional, no maintenance needed. Even milling aluminium occasionally.
I seriously think they scammed you. Of course in your case you just assembled it. Me on the other hand I designed it my self. Probably I just did a better job. I thought about doing it professionally, but I'd rather stick to developing electric vehicles :)
Is the nema 34s worth the extra cost for a 48"x48" w/o the extended Z axis?
Good question. I can't spend your money, but I can say I would always do NEMA34's for a machine of this size, the 23s are just too small. It's not necessary, but it just makes the machine operate better IMO. With the overall cost of the machine, plus tooling, plus everything else, the upgrade in motors and controller are relatively small, so I would go for it. But it's your money, and your needs might be different than mine. You basically get faster speeds and maybe more reliable travels.
how biggest motor u use then better not lost step, but need biggest motor drivers too handle motors current.
Just make or buy an end jig for the vertical applications? You might want to extend the Y axis for over travel? Disclaimer: I’m new to this so take everything I say with a grain of sand. lol
What’s wrong with Mach 3 software?
mach3 not safety not realtime run,not flexiple add own tools etc.
Nice doggos.
What bit are you useing for aluminum and how do you cool it ? Or do you need to cool it?
In the video I just used a 3 flute end mill designed for aluminum, but it's not really the right one to use for the machine. I ordered some single flute end mills for aluminum, but they got lost in the mail and didn't show up before I made this video. I have a few different types, and I will try them out and let everyone know what works best. But as of right now, I'm not sure the best end mills for aluminum. Also, in terms of cooling, it's probably not as necessary as some sort of lubricant to keep the chips from welding to the bit, but I'll be sure to try out some different things.
I would use a vacuum or blower to clear waste away as I read cutting fluid cools parts and cutter down that as it cools so quick it reduces cutter life as it gets more worn with heat or cold cycle
I recently got a 3040 Chinese cnc "looks the same as the one you quickly showed". On the eBay page it says it can mill steel I tried and it made very loud noises not anything like when I cut aluminum. Do I need a special bit or am I doing something else wrong. I am using a 3 flute endmill. Thanks
I mean, these machines 'can' machine steel, but they're really not designed for it. The RPM range is way too high. When I machine steel, you really should be around 2500 RPM, which is way too slow for these spindles. Also, they lack the rigidity to machine them properly. You COULD use more flutes (I tend to use a 5 or 6 flute endmill for steels), and go as slow as you can, but you will still run into rigidity issues, the tables are especially bad, since they have a lot of flex in them.
Ok thanks
@@iansmith642 short answer, no they cannot machine steel. Nothing will stop you from trying to do so but the whole machine simply is not going to cope with it. Why not? Well ... for many reasons. The spindle is, as Robert said, too high in RPM. But that is just the start of it. It uses depending on brand/model either just unsupported round guide rods or the supported variety. Neither of which is sufficiently rigid to cope with milling steel. You would need some reasonably good linear rails for that. The stepper motors are too light for steel also, and of the open loop variety. This is a problem Robert also has in my opinion. Long story short, no safe guard against missing steps. Also the ballscrews on these CNC's are simply too light and have too much backlash to cope with milling steel. And finally the rigidity of the construction of these CNC's, also far too low (especially the relatively flimsy aluminum worktable which you can deflect already just by pushing it with 2 fingers and moderate force).
Again none of this stops you from physically trying it of course. But the result is what you described. A lot of noise because of resonance, chatter and lack of coolant (forgot to mention that most of these CNC's have no coolant setup).
You could upgrade the machine with tweaks to improve these points but ... really you would have to upgrade so much...
loud lot because vibration need strongest frame.
Nice Good Job #goodluckcnc 🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩
I plan on getting the same set up you have but in the 4x8 size, how do you like the leg kit, they want $799.00 for the 4x8 size, would you buy it again or build your own base. Do you plan on doing any videos of setting up the programs in mach4 or vcarve pro?
The leg kit is up to you. I think it was worth it. I would have spent a good amount of time coming up with my own leg kit and would have spent at least a few hundred dollars. I don't have a welder, so welding something up wouldn't have been an option. For me, it was worth the extra money, since it was about ~5% of the overall cost of the machine. You'll have to decide how much your time and effort is worth. For me, it made a lot of sense to just buy the leg kit. So yes, I would buy it again, no question. For the software setup, it's not worth a video, they have a great write-up on their site. You just download a couple things, install them and it's good to go. There's no real setup at all. I don't use vcarve, I'm a solidworks/fusion 360 guy, since I come from metalworking. I will cover those in future videos. Here's a link to the Mach4 stuff: www.cncrouterparts.com/support/software/mach4/
@Robert Cowan how you rate the legs and frame stiffness for machining? At moment I wonder to buy the 8 by 4 from them but as of the extrusion they use and some parts I am thinking to go diy which will cost about 3 times but some of my cost be as putting a place for co2 laser to be used on the table
simply install softwares ,same than all other softwares, yotube have lot videos how setup setting motors etc to software no need buy expensive lot, why worst mach4 lot better have linuxcnc, mach3-4 have simple to beginners but not pro software,
Are you still happy with this machine?
Great video, Robert! I’ve had a Shapeoko 3 since 2015 that I upgraded to an XL and have been thinking about the HDZ upgrade, but often find myself wondering if I should just bite the bullet and get an Avid Pro instead (and/or a Tormach, so very cool that you plan to use both). But that starts to become an expensive hobby. :)
Avid and tormach can completely different machines. They are not supplementary.
not have expensive hobby, i build same cnc what video have less than 1000$ orden all parts only. and install together, easy made DIY
That banana. I died laughing. We will really measure with anything other than metric.
I want to buy this just to put it together!
Ha just came across my comment I left last year. I bought the 4x8
Can it run under 240 Volts?
normal ALL can only usa market has used 110 volt.
Hi Bob, I want to buy an Avid CNC 48x48 machine.
how does it work?
where did you buy it?
how much did it cost?
Thank you very much for the help.
Alberto
Alberto, that information is in the video, check the description for a link to the actual machine.
ua-cam.com/video/ypCG-JRLnDw/v-deo.html
Robert, I want to do heavy steel machining but on 3ft parts. Any ideas?
Maybe outsource? This isn't a machine I would use for steel. If that's your only option, and you only have a couple parts, and the machining is minimal, you should be fine. But if you're looking at this for cutting steel exclusively, it's not a great idea.
@@RobertCowanDIY the battlebots community is so cool! I am working on a "low low man" meets "ring master" bot design. The 3 rings needed to make one bot will cost 8-9k with no promise it would work. I would much rather spend the money on a hobby cnc machine so I could tinker.
When I saw your video on the 2020 copper head redesign... Wow. I knew it would be a beast!
@@neilpetrarca7395 Got ya. Battlebots are tricky and expensive!
Thanks Rob! I've been looking a lot at the Legacy 3x5 Maverick which can do turnings and the end of boards. If you added all that to your kit; any idea what the total cost would be. With taxes and freight and a few bits and such I'm looking at about $19k.
I want to call Avid and ask but I did not find a phone number.
Hey Jim. I think talking to Avid would be best. They don't have their phone number listed, but if you just fill out the contact form and put in your number, you should get a call back within a day or so. That's exactly what I did. Basically, you'd just take the kit I got and add a 4th axis, and add a table on the end for vertical pieces. The rotary axis is $2500, so you'd be around $13K with everything you'd need. But it would be best to talk to them, I haven't done a vertical table yet, but I know others have.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks Rob. Maybe they'll call me tomorrow.
I find it difficult to do business with companies that do not have a phone number. Makes me feel like they may not be there tomorrow or they do not want to be bothered by customers.
@@jimw544 I get that. I think for companies that do a lot of technical or international sales, email is a good first line of defense. I'm a VP for such a company, and phone calls are VERY tricky for technical support, so we opt for email first and phone support if there's a need. Unfortunately, a lot of people will take advantage of the phone to jump in line since it's harder to queue.
I was considering the Legacy Explorer but it seems they no longer produce it. And the Maverick is way beyond what I want to spend. I wanted the water cooled spindle, along with the vertical fixture for dovetails and the like. But Avid is now my primary choice for my upcoming purchase (hopefully by April). I already had a question for them and they responded promptly, so I think I'm hooked.
Hands on cnc upgraded his avid cnc to clearpath servos and s30 auto tool change spindle.
Yeah, that was my original plan, but after doing some research and talking with Avid extensively, it doesn't have any benefits for what I'm doing. I'll see how this goes and if I want to upgrade the motion control, I'll just end up going straight to AC servos. But I'm already wanting an ATC spindle.
if buy servos closed loop motors and drivers need 10x more money.
What holds the workpiece down? Vacuum?
For the part I cut at the end, I just used carpet tape, which is a nice quick and easy work-holding for smaller parts. The machine doesn't have any actual work-holding, you just make your own spoilboard with t slots or something. Most people just screw or nail the part to the spoilboard. I may end up mounting a vise or coming up with some sort of method to hold parts.
@@RobertCowanDIY Thanks for the detailed answer.
double side tape or screw or clamps.
After watching hundreds of videos on cnc routers I had just one question. What's the scale of a Avid pro. The banana was detrimental to knowing. Thanks. Subbed.
Ha, glad it helped.
I work in a FabLab and we have a similar router. I really want to see you making a drum or a eggbeater only using this machine.
That would be quite the challenge...
@@RobertCowanDIY while in the topic, how did you machine Copperheads weapon? :)
@@themechanix393 We paid someone. This isn't the type of machine that would be up to the task. Heck, even the machine that the guy we PAID used wasn't up to the task. Machining a drum like that is not an easy task at all.
@@RobertCowanDIY yeah, I didn't think that it came off of a router or a tormach. Just curious whether it was a lathe with live tools, a 5 axis or something completely different. The drum looks like an awful lot of hardened steel was needed to be removed... :)
@@themechanix393 It was made with a 3 axis. Each end was one operation (it started out as a rectangle). Then the 'top' and 'bottom' were machined, basically in halves. There's a small seam between the top and bottom.
love the banana on the fame LMAO
Aw, just stick some big ol' drive wheels on it and put it up against Mammoth in the BattleBots arena. Go on. You know you want to. Listen to the voice of Elli; it is the voice of temptation, urging you to trespass and sin...
I don't think this would qualify as a heavyweight, it's too heavy ;-)
How do you justify the cost of something like this vs a similarly priced industrial machine? What bothers me about Avid is that extrusion inherently have flatness tolerances, skew tolerances, twist tolerances etc. You can see these if you look at any extrusion manufacturer's tolerances. But AvidCNC doesn't do any precision grinding on said extrusion. So all those nice linear rails are attached to something that isn't guaranteed to be flat, not twisted, etc. I like Avid as a company, and still considering the product, but I don't understand why they don't invest in a grinding machine to make their product stand out more. Extrusion is so cheap, why not at least grind it? I know some people that complain about mounting linear rails to extrusion on $700 3D printers claiming a host of tolerance issues I mentioned, so when you spend so many thousands on a CNC router, but still have so much uncertainly just bothers me. Sorry for the rant, the machine looks really nice!
Good points. Ultimately, if it does what I need it to do, and saves me time and effort versus making my own, It's worth the price.
I have the same machine but in the 5'×10' size, my cuts are dead nuts even over full length of the machine, super precise, it's all about the setup, do it once, do it right and you are set. And if my cut is off a thousand or two over 10' at least to me it won't make a difference, I don't make aerospace parts with it but cabinet parts/signs etc...
Surely it's the holes in the extrusions that have to be bang on as well as the rails. The rails are likely precision milled/ground and the holes will be precision milled. That'll get everything accurate. If the extrusions were bowed it doesn't matter because the holes will be accurate. Squaring up ends is always a part of the aligning process even on mills from what I gather. Hammer and a precision machinists square and you're good to go. Bracing would be my biggest concern.
I've liked to deal with this company generally, but my experience hasn't been amazing because I purchased (most of their parts) for the original "standard" edition that they first began with which was flat bar cold rolled steel rails which happened to be one of the worst design choices for rails ever. I of course didn't know this at the time. It was just bad - accuracy couldn't be replicated if you took their claims to heart. But I guess they did this to make more money and design a better machine, with that said I feel a little screwed.
Whatever you do, don't waste your money on their "standard" kit. You may (will) be disappointed.
Their electronics system however has been wonderful.
This new machine is obviously a massive upgrade and my original machine is no longer around - I used many of my parts and upgraded a 15 year old Shopbot and now runs probably as well as any Avid CNC - ignoring the fact that mine is made of steel and ways probably 2 times more which could be good or bad depending on what you're needing.
Hi Robert, I discovered your channel looking for information about avid CNC, I am very interested in this machine, the problem is that I am from Spain and the shipping costs, taxes, etc. make it very difficult, I think I am going to do it myself, I know it is an adventure but Well, I will buy the small parts from the company, the rest I will buy in Europe, I have a doubt what measurements the aluminum profiles have, especially the main one where the z axis is installed, measurement of length, height, width and the gap of the channel , Thank you very much and greetings.
If you speak with Avid, they should be able to help you out. You never know, maybe they could refer you to an 8020 distributor in Europe. The extrusions are all the metric profiles, so you should be fine.
@@RobertCowanDIY OK thank you very much
stupid waste this avid cnc owerprice lot money and TAX and shipping, lot cheapen can build same machine orden internet all parts many different shop were found cheapen and build at home, normal men can build this easy in home, i build same machine 1500x1500 less than 1000$ search net and orden parts lot cheapen, this avid price can build 3-4 new cnc machine what size want.
How are the Material Held Down?
Is there a "Debris Collector" Assembly?
Still better than what 99.8% of what most people have!
The work piece is held down however you want. You can use double-stick tape, clamps, drill it directly to the table, etc. But that is all up to the user, the kit/machine does not really include a bed, you need to come up with that. The same goes for dust/chip collection. I will be adding something later.
Fyi, the powermatic dust boot on Amazon fits this spindle perfectly and is around $50
@@RobertCowanDIY Please make a video on those additions! Thanks for posting.
@@MrWachowsky I'm still working them out for myself. But when I feel comfortable I can certainly give a quick overview of what I did. It largely depends on what type of projects or parts you're making.
11k and no dust collection? It does look like a beautiful machine.
Keep in mind most woodworkers will already have some sort of dust collection. I bought a dust shoe off eBay for $25, and it works fine with a simple Harbor Freight dust collector. If I already had dust collection, a $25 shoe would have been all I needed. They also have plans to make your own with your machine. Everyone's use-case will be unique and I don't think leaving out dust collection is unreasonable, very rarely (if ever) do you get dust collection included in a tool which creates dust. Table saws, planers, jointers, sanders, etc., none of these come with any way to handle the dust, the CNC is no different.
I know you’re right Robert, Dust boot or not, I’m really jealous of your beautiful machine. :p Thank you for your well thought out and informational videos. I’ve learned so much, please keep them coming!
just drill a slot in top near the edge where u can slip the wood through and mill the ends
interesting
I see it as another machine too. You lay on it face down in your birthday suit and it rubs your back. Then it starts up because of software fault and rips your spine out. ha ha
don't do drugs kids...
Your dog, changes color?
Yep! It not very well known, but greyhounds can change colors at will.
Can u show me all side photo of machine
I'm not sure what you're looking for, the machine has many sides. What exactly are you trying to see?
@@RobertCowanDIY i like see move of forwARD AND REVERSE MOVEMENT OF GANDRY BY SINGLE MOTOR OR TWO MOTOR
@@sandhoshkumar955 Well, that's not a photo, that's a video. Also, the gantry (the Y axis) only moves with two motors, not one.
@@RobertCowanDIY thanks for your repaly
Am I the only one who thinks that the Z-axis is mounted in reverse? He can raise it really high... But what's the point of that? Anyway... I love the looks of that machine! :D:D
Yeah, it's REALLY high. I'm not entirely sure why. I got the extended axis, but I'm not sure why it would be useful, it just makes homing take a lot longer. I do plan on hanging parts off the edge of the machine (for machining things vertically), so that might help, but it does seem really tall.
It helps if he installs a rotary axis. The larger zaxis clearance will help with large diameter parts. The gantry doesn't move across the rotary axis.
@@Z-add It is so obvious when you say it... thx for pointing that out :D
I think it'll help more with vertical table stuff than with rotary axis stuff. The gantry doesn't have to move over the rotary, but the spindle doesn't stick out very far from the gantry, so the gantry would still bump into something way before you'd need to be at the top of the z-axis range. That kind of vertical travel _would_ allow for some decent vertical table stuff above the spoil board -- especially if he moved the spindle higher on the z-axis (though that would make normal routing on the spoil board impossible without really long bits -- and re-tramming every time you wanted to switch configurations would be a real pain). With a taller gantry (12" vs the standard 8"), you'd probably want the spindle mounted lower on the bracket (to reach the spoil board with very short bits), and the extended range would still allow the spindle to move above the project material even when using a really long bit.
The two parallel linear-guides at 11:42 make me think "ouch - that has gotta be over-determined - the slightest misalignment between the tracks shall put enormous sideways forces on the rail and shall cause needless wear of the bearings." What do they do to prevent this? I do not see any flexures or cut-outs or such..
It's a pretty simple process. You use a provided jig to make sure the top rail is parallel to the gantry extrusion. Then you tighten it down. Then you basically move the axis along the two rails and slowly tighten the bottom rail, while moving the assembly. Once done, the two are as parallel as you can get them by hand, and there's no binding or rough spots at all. It's just nice and smooth.
@@RobertCowanDIY The pragmatist in me is glad to hear that it works, but that's a no-no for any kind of precision-machinery :( Razor: What would Dan Gelbart or Alex Slocum say?
@@AdityaMehendale I would disagree. Shouldn't the bearings self-align, if allowed to ride parallel under no stress? If they are under any stress, and the other bearing track isn't constrained, it would move to a point where it's no longer under stress.
@@RobertCowanDIY If you indeed follow the tightening procedure you explained, the bearings would be stress free for the one time. Linear rails, by design, constrain 5DoF. The moment you tighten the bolts on the other rail, many DoFs (typically five) shall become overconstrained. Unlike a four-legged table that doesn't wobble, the linear rails have no compliance, or 'give' or 'slop' (if they are any good). The ensuing fight between "an immovable rail" and "an unstoppable stiffness" shall cause grief for the bearings. Adding a teeny-tiny flexure-spring in the slider could have solved the issue. Maybe there is a parasitic compliance somewhere in the construction, that eases the load on the bearings.. Maybe it seems like I am nitpicking, but if you want a precise and repeatable mechanism, then the first design-rule is to not over-constrain.
@@AdityaMehendale But thing is this is not a precision machine, in comparison to cnc lathes and mills. At the end of the day it's an overhead router designed for light machining. I'm sure the process Robert has described to align the rails is perfectly acceptable in this situation.
The tilt on the y axis stepper motor is just bugging me, can I come to your workshop and straighten it up plz
It IS straight. The whole assembly rotates to engage against the gear track, so it's at an angle, but that's by design. And no, you can't come to my shop.
make sure to keep your plastic, wood, and metal bits separate
for what reason?
@@RobertCowanDIY The guy who routs stuff for us told us that once a bit cuts a different material, it won't work as nicely. I think he was primarily worried about going between plastics and metal. our CNC guys have told us the same thing, but they're cutting aluminum and ABS for us.
Once we got an x-carve, we discovered that the only good bits for cutting acrylic (90% of what we cut) are O-flutes and garbage for cutting metal anyway, so that makes it easier.
Robert Cowan endmills (if I heard correctly) are also ground differently for different materials. For example wood/plastic endmills are ground much sharper than endmills for aluminum or steel since they won’t chip as easily.
Ah OK, I thought you were implying that they needed to be segregated for some reason. Yes, you are right, all end mills have a purpose. I have some for plastic, some for wood, some for aluminum, some for steel, some for HARDENED steel, and some for titanium. They all cut a bit differently. Like anything else, use the right tool for the job.
@@RobertCowanDIY IIRC there are some plastics that still like the edge geometry for metals, but that's more the exception than the norm I guess.
you even get a nice banana !
Can you upload the user manual somewhere.
There really isn't a 'user manual' since it's all various kits. But they have documents for all the parts, which can be found on their site. They have everything from the software setup, hardware assembly, etc. www.cncrouterparts.com/instructions-configuration-c-44_37.html
"Everything needed to run this is about eleven grand ($11,000)." At 5:45 you say this, but I suspect you meant "eleven hundred" ($1,100) and not the much higher number.
Hahaha no it is $11k just the motor package for this model is over $2500
@@explosiveenterprises1479 You are right! I am wrong! I am looking to build one and I put all the goodies in the cart and it's a bit over $11,000. Wow. I can't wait to join you in this hobby! Have fun.
@@explosiveenterprises1479 only nema 34 stepper motors cost maximum 100-200$/piece and need 4 pcs, and drivers need what motors current have about 40-100$/piece not newer cost 2500 $ you has scammed lot.
Z axis is so high.... no sens...
Astro cnc
care to elaborate?
Also,I'm trying to understand why I'm having trouble contacting ANY AVIDCNC,ROUTERPARTSNC PAGE
ggrrr...ANYONE ELSE RUN INTO THIS ISSUE......
Have fun with your new toy!
I had no issue contacting them. How are you trying to do it?
i dont get it, why would you get such huge machine to ... make aluminium?
The reason why it doesn't use ballscrews its because its more expensive.... don't kid yourself there are massive machines that make this look like a toy and use ballscrews.
nice flex bro. Yes, I'm aware that there are machines much bigger, more rigid, and more expensive. This is a hobby machine, not an industrial production machine. I think everyone else realizes that but yourself.
@@RobertCowanDIYTo be clear.... I simply stated that there are machine that dwarf this machine and use ballscrews successfully. Claiming ball screws at this size flex or are inferior is a joke.
I dont believe that what I said was factually incorrect. Now what you said in the video certainly was. Then you got defensive and commented back. Trust me I realize this is your hobby being as you dont have multi hundreds of thousands tied up in a machine. Its clear and evident, i think what you are doing is great ive seen several of your videos and it helps people out and give some perspective. I liked how you compaird the 440 to the router and other points in other videos but what you stated was factually incorrect hence I commented. You just simply got sensitive I didn't think you would have being as its obvious this isn't a job shop ego blah blah blah it was just a correction with a example.
First off, thanks for the compliment, seriously. Secondly, I did get defensive. Here's why. I have a couple hundred videos, averaging around 15 minutes or so a piece. There's a lot of content there. It's difficult to be 100% accurate, all the time. I can't add caveats and disclaimers to every single thing I say. Maybe I SHOULD have said "generally speaking, at this price point, for this type of machine, a ballscrew wouldn't be cost effective to implement, because it would need to be of sufficient size and quality as to not whip around and cause more issues than it solves.". My point here is that there's an assumption that I'm talking about THESE types of machine, hobby CNC routers. I have to consider my audience and consider the context of the video. You're not at all wrong, but I just don't see it as necessary to point out when I'm truncating information for the sake of the audience.
not expensive, i buy ebay all kit, linear rails and ballscrews set 1500x1500x300 cost normal 350$ maximum. if cost more has scam.
CURIOUS YOUR SUCCESS WITH ALUMINUM ON THIS MACHINE AS OPPOSED TO A TYPICAL MILL? I DOUBT THIS CAN HANDLE MUCH AS THE HARMONICS FROM THE LIGHTWEIGHT DESIGN WILL KILL THE ACCURACY AND DESTROY CUTTERS PRETTY FAST.
It looks suspiciously like a diy build using cheap 80/20 aluminum T-slot extrusions... Seems like poor value.
And that router is nowhere near as powerful as the 2hp Tormach spindle motor. A motor that hits 2hp at 2000rpm has 12x more torque than one that hits 2hp at 24,000rpm.
nice cnc machine but owerprice lot, same can made DIY at home orden only same parts search cheapen shop all parts, i have similar 1500x1500 table Z 300mm i build less than 1000$ same. only stupid waste lot money to machine if can made DIY own better machine. i looking kits before start build and all has lot owerprice, lot better has buy parts many different shop can build totally same or better cnc and lot save money, aluminium can cut and drill at home same tools than wood. not more work but lot cheapen build DIY it home all.
Ha, cool story bro.
Let me guess u got it for free
Nope. I talk about it in the video, I paid full retail for the machine.
What you don't really mention is how inaccurate these home machines are. Real commercial quality milling machine accuracy with cnc are at least $1/2M to $2Ml. I measured a few of these inexpensive machines and they have barely 10 to 16 mil per foot. And their repeatability is just plain terrible. That isn't any thing I can use.
There is nothing more boring as pointing a camera at yourself and talking for 10 minutes or longer or even shorter. People who make video seem to think they have to give out very very detailed info. No, we can read it from the manufacturer. These are videos. Then show something happening not talking endlessly. This video is a talking spec sheet and marketing info.
Something nobody ever talks about is ACCURACY of movement. I think that is because these cheap CNC machines are NOT very accurate at all. A true milling machine is probably 10 to 20 times more accurate.
Why are your hands in the shot and they are constantly moving. Very annoying!!!
hmm, how you build it have accurate or not, my diy build machine have 0,001mm accurate wood or aluminium work not need more accure. many factory old mill not have this accurate newer.
Good info. Thanks for sharing your perspective.
Hey Jay, thanks for the comment, I'm a fan of your videos. It's a good machine for sure. I have many 'nice' tools in my shop, and I'm overall impressed with the company, their support, and the quality of their products.