Make Stupid Decisions Win Stupid Prizes
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Forgetting stuff once is unfortunate. Doing it twice is just stupid.
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[ Music ]
"Trickin Pickin" performed by Doug Waterman
The dolphins can ride Seeker’s bow pressure wave perfectly! Best video in a long time.
John Wayne said it best:
Life is hard..
If you’re stupid, it’s even harder
The worst sort of stupid is not recognizing that sometimes you are the stupid one. --Doug Jackson
When you are dead, you do not know you are dead. It's only painful & difficult for others. The same applies when you are stupid….Ricky Gervais
K.I.S.S.
When you design 3d items for print consider breaking them apart into multiple pieces, both to reduce support material and print time, and more importantly to take advantage of the non-isotropic property of the printed material due to the layers..
On that plant holder the hook that goes around the rail could be printed separately, and on it's side (so each layer looks like the letter C) with no support, AND the weak layer interfaces would not have a tendency to break when you flex it on and off the rail.
yes and the slicers have a preview function, it pays to click through the layers esp. after a print failed. also: as long as you're below 60 °C: the hotter the ambient temp the better. humidity of the filament and your air is also a big deal, but it mostly shows up as stringing, your problem looks more like: the filament cannot come out of the nozzle fast enough, so either your filament is not really 1.75 mm, your nozzle is clogged or you're printing too fast for the temperature you're using. and i am hoping you're not using PLA but PETG or ABS or Nylon, because PLA is kinda sensitive to moisture so it's basically a non-starter in your environment
Seeing seeker from underwater so clear just floating there was surreal! That was awesome!
Yes it was!
Wishing you smooth sailing & fair weather.
You could also fill the little boats panels with closed cell foam, that way they float, take a lot more beating and will be vastly stronger!
Wonderful episode Doug! So amazing to see Seeker out on the water and under power of sail. And the colour of that water!! Wow.
Hey. Just a tip on 3d printing. Since you are designing your own parts you should always avoid support structures, its waste of material and time. If you need to split the design into multiple pieces. In this case the lip could be separated from the cup. I avoid supports like the plage...😂
I watch the dolphins running on the bow of Seeker and I wonder, what is the porpoise?
Its making all those little things that makes life a little easier . Fun watching make these things
They recommend not to wrestle your 3D-print off the print plate while it's still in the printer. Instead remove the (presumably) magnetic print plate first and then remove the printed part (e.g. by flexing the print plate a bit). The reason for this is, that all the fairly hard pulling does the alignment of the printer parts no good.
They tell me I drive too fast too.
For 3D print repair. Soldering Iron will often put broken lines back together better than glue, certainly quicker at tacking the parts in the right position, On AbS i loved mixing tolulene with excess ABS the glue there was king. But when i printed PLA i found i liked solder iron melting better than glue. I often design in melt welds when i have to transition around the weak layer lines.
The Chinese have been using Bamboo for battens for thousands of years. Granted not as high tech or sexy as aluminum, but much more forgiving and easy to fix with zip ties or wire wrapping if one fails under load. Aluminum, especially light weight aluminum does not live happily ever after in a salt water environment.
I did find the right species in the US but it was four times the cost of aluminum. In Philippines it would be a different story.
The big difference is you can weld the aluminum to repair/modify. It's a little harder to splice bamboo.
@@ionstorm66 Exactly. It would be different if the right species was growing in forest along the shore. : )
Doug, the trees do tend to cause the filament to get chewed up and stop feeding properly.
You should be able to turn off retraction is the support though, it will tend to produce whispy material in the supports when you do but the filament wont get chewed up.
I thought I was having a stroke or something? was the first two minutes all repeat footage from the previous video?- LOL
Loved every moment of this video, well done SV Seeker crew.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. Dolphins, history, 3D printing trials and successes, crystal clear water, Andy, some good eating, StarLnk/radar.
Glad you enjoyed it
Yep, a wise man once told me; Life's tough, you gotta chew harder sometimes. Another one I was reminded of recently; If you have to eat a shit sandwich, don't nibble. Great video. Cheers!
Love it. Thanks
I play around with sailboats a lot and I have an idea for you if you haven't already thought of it. This might take some experimentation, but if you could rig up a large bungee on your preventer to take some of the shock out and maybe save the spars to give you time to release. Just an idea.
Yup. Someone else came of with the idea of having a break away line in the preventer, so if it loaded up too much it would just let go. Like a sheer pin.
Ive spent many years on the ocean. The time and effort in this build is amazing. What doug accomplished is amazing. But why reinvent the wheel? Why not a serious marine powerplant? I understand cost but come on you got it Doug. I dont think seeker will ever be fit for serious open water. I think bays and rivers is where she will spend her days and thats ok. Thats where me and my 45' sailboat will retire
Because that’s where the creativity, learning and adventure is and all you have to do is stay the fuck off my boat and you’re good.
Thank you my friends
Once welded you could do a few wraps of fiberglass on that boom around the highest load area near the mast. Light weight way to add some strength and chafe protection
from what I understand, the Star Link charges more while you are underway. Some other sailing channels I watch just put the Star Link away on passage and then use it once they get there.
Yes, they do. I use it for weather out on the Gulf and turn it off when in harbor until I switch it back to the cheaper plan. In harbor or along the coast I just use cell service.
She’s got a closet full of clothes and shoes worn once meanwhile you got lures that get used many times a day/week/month/year that cost a fraction of one pair of shoes and she will be bitter.
A man’s peace is priceless…
Are you still getting plenty of fresh water from rainfall?
Yes. More than enough.
I'm guessing your next ship is going to be 3-D printed. In a way, all that electronic gear is taking the thrilling uncertainty and satisfying skill out of sailing. Your nose, ears, eyes and experience were the gear in da old days.
Doug, I've seen a neat solution to retain items from falling out... They used a bungee cord and some screw in eyes and hooks to run a single bungee cord across at 2 heights. It can be disconnected to pull out boxes or larger items and just pulled aside to grab smaller stuff at front. I'm curious if the star link antenna/receiver could be mounted directly above radars operating level to avoid interference, or if not, mounted to mizzenmast or on top of sail hardware so it raises and lowers for access ?
Cracking content as always Doug. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Doug, on that cylindrical piece I would print that on it's end which makes the layer lines run around the curve not across it, and then it would print faster because it would require no support. Then just glue it to the back of the pot.
The thump up is for the beautiful dolphins swimming with your 'shark' and your amazing effort. Not for the broken, ughh... back to work.
Those failed prints can be recovered by using calipers to measure the amount that was already printed and removing that area from the 3D model. Print the remainder of the print and glue the 2 parts together using an adhesive ideal for the material you are using. Superglue for PLA and 2 part plumbing adhesive for ABS
I tend to use PETG for my stuff, a good bit of my telescope is made of PETG and intake tube.
That would be "feathering" the prop.
If I was interested in coming aboard for a day to help with things around the boat, is that something you let people do and what is the preferred method of communication? I have welding, carpentry and general mechanical knowledge.
No, sorry. We have visitors on board, but work for a day is just not practical.
Fishing rods not poles. Rods are dynamic poles are static. There are such things as fishing poles.
It must be difficult to try to teach such things to people who don't care. : )
Watched you for years. Thought you liked learning things about the world. Have fun on your motor boat.
@@maxhomersimpsonpower Oh don't get butt hurt. I just don't give a shit about fishing.
Just spent a couple days at fort DeSoto. Didn't go out to Egmont this time. Awesome to see you there
Move star link on top of the stern mask or stern rail ? ? Or will the cables be to far to work ? Separation the answer?
Can you 3d print things which break on your 3d printer? Self replication? Sentience?
That is a great view of the dolphins
Doug,
Does it matter if you have the battens crossing the mast or on the leeward side of the mast?
I saw how the two sides of the sail were pushing on opposite sides of the mast and wondered if that wouldn't create a point load and bend the battens.
Of course the alternative would place all of the force on the ropes holding the battens to the mast. But I thought that might allow a more gradual bowing of the battens rather than the single hard point.
Never sailed a gaff but pulling on the mast seems better ( for some reason) than pushing against it.
Chinese Junk rigs are a world unto themselves but it's a very old world that came about with much weaker materials than steel and aluminum. The loads are actually spread out nicely and far less than the point loading that is found in Bermuda rigs.
The Tree supports have been the best thing since 3D printing! I've never had a problem with them. But like everything 3D printing, ya just have to do what works for you!!
Hey Doug, what ever happened to the glowing orb in the dragons mouth nav lights?
Too low on the "to-do" list.
@@SVSeeker I feel your pain! They will be a cool addition when you get to them.
What is the fastest you have sailed so far and what was the wind speed?
What kind of fuel consumption are you seeing when motoring?
Around 8 knots in 18 knots of wind with little wave action. And motor sailing can be all over the place so it's close enough to say it's better.
@@SVSeeker A little under half of wind speed is what the averagw 50' production catamaran is doing so that's not bad for the size and weight.
ya i think its the heat with the pla iI have had parts bend in sunlight
Wrap that boom spot in fiberglass. Like a 2nd Gen late 1990s hockey stick
How about we just weld them back together?
Maybe the starlink would be happier at the top of the main mast? Or the radar, but I would guess the wobbling/tilting/rocking at that height would be distracting for it.
No real need to run them at the same time. And that is sort of ground zero for lighting.
The other issue with mounting at mast top is the amplified pendulum effect making the dish need to go into overdrive to keep up.
Fair enough for the lighting at least.
The pendulum I don't know about though, since the tilt angles are the same at mast top and roof top. But if there are accelerometers involved I think they might get confused.
I am just realizing the tilt angle would be the same for the radar too... But the lightning argument and lack of need makes it moot anyway.
Your having to much fun with that toy making toys🤠
26:27 😊 I used to close my seacock every time I left the boat until the engine was overheated several times for then on the key went on the seacock handle
That water is beautiful, I guess from the land or shore we don't see it being that being that clear. Any shark sightings?
No, I don’t think you ever see it like that near any river entrance. And no sharks.
looks like doug is ready for an extruder upgrade... get a bondtech and fuggedaboudit.
I really enjoy your show Doug please dont stop taking a us all along with you. That 3D printer is like having your own wishing well.
I am very impressed with the stuff you make its so handy.
I'd have thought the salt spray/mist would be detrimental to Dillon growing?
I know that pvc wasnt cheap!
Nice one Doug. Will be cool to track Seeker on the Garmin site. Thanks.
Need to add propellor pitch to your checklist
Hey Doug, What you call stopping and starting would be retractions. Too many retractions in one spot like the tops of your tree supports can cause heat creep and filament grinding. For future sake if you have a model like that giving you issues you can slice the object to the point where it's acting up and make your adjustments for testing so your not waiting for the whole object to print to see if your adjustments work. You can view the number of retractions in your slicer and see if the number is excessive as well. Dial them back and test print again. Keep on sailing and 3D printing!
Starlinks need to be mounted above the radar beam
One for performance and two it can cause damage to starlink
Tree supports are generally better for more complex models since they’re able to go up and around things to support overhangs that don’t have a clear path to the build plate. they also generally use a little less material but can take a little longer if you’re supporting a large flat area.
13:28 The trip is the thing, as much as the destination. Ive been following your build for as long as you've been building SV Seeker. I'm watching now with a year or more of episode gaposis. Please forgive me if I just could not follow so many failure and tries and more tries. To success of course. Here you are on the water, ready to design / make your way to the horizon and next port. I am a retired machinist of 40 years, some hi-tec some industrial repair (read fishing boats). So it is not that I don't have a love of machinery. Keep on seeking Doug. -clay
I include a pice of thin cord as a weak link whenever I rig a preventer. On my boat if there is ever a lot of weight on the preventer probably the best outcome is for it to break and the sail gybe. A thin piece of cord is very cheap and quick to replace too. My boat is a lot smaller and lighter though. Happy sailing.
Great video! Thanks again from Lexington Kentucky ✌️😎
Thanks for watching!
Just curious, how are you keeping the filament dry in such high humidity?
I just put it back in a ziplock bag with all of the desiccant packets.
@@SVSeeker may want to look into getting a drier. As it absorbs moisture it gets more and more brittle, might be what’s causing your feed issues.
Let me know if you are still in Tampa Bay i live in Tampa Bay area and would love to come visit.
Sorry we missed you. We are in Punta Gorda now.
@@SVSeeker sorry we missed you i would like to have met you. my boat is in Seminole just north of where you were staying. Good luck and have a good sail.
Man I sure have missed your long videos. So glad you are back at it. Don't get me wrong I love the short ones too.
Glad you like them!
Luv it 👍👍
In the 3d printer slicer you can limit the amount of retractions in a given section of the filament (moving window max number of retractions). Or just simply disable retractions. That will solve your filament grinding issue.
Love it 😍
Thank you! 😊
Maybe Starlink will work if you put the antenna on the main mast.
Likely, but there is no need for radar and starlink at the same time
Hey Doug, master of most things metal, is it possible to bend silicon bronze? We're working on a winter project list and yup it involves chainplates. Thanks for your time and any input you can share with us. Jeff and Julie s/v OoLaLa Westsail32 hull#81
Sure it. They reform bronze props with an hammer and anvil.
Great video Doug, Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Radar or communication that’s what killed the Sheffield I believe 😢
Every time I see dolphins I recall the skit on saturday night live with gildna radner and the odd relationship of ummmmmm,....... research. I miss her and Gene W.
I've had the start/stop problem with the 3d printer. Check your settings for retraction. It might be retracting more than you need, which ends up running the same section of filemant back and forth a bunch while printing fine details. You only need to retract far enough the nozzle doesn't drip during the move.
I knew you were in the area and swore I saw seekers' outline yesterday off Coquina beach but thought "it couldn't be". Just checked you're Garmin today and it was you!
He Doug, Awesome Video Really Enjoyed it. When transferring fuel i always set a timer. Just in case i get side tracked and forget about it. like i did that one time.... lol
We run both our S and X band radars continuously at sea without noticeably interfering with Starlink. However, the radars sit about 15 feet above the fixed Starlink antennae so vertical separation may be your issue
If you're jamming up during frequent retractions the issue is most likely an inadequate heat break, inadequate heat sink cooling, excessive retraction distance or a combination of these factors. The issue is that when you retract you pull hot filament into the cold side of the heat break, increasing the load on the hot end heat sink. If you overwhelm the heat sink and warm the walls of the cold side too much the cold filament starts to stick. As soon as it sticks bad enough to cause any slipping at all in the feeder, the process tumbles into runaway and you jam straight up in seconds
...and so I don't use tree supports. : )
@@SVSeeker that should help for now! And of course avoid supports entirely as much as possible. There's also some easy and affordable upgrades that would solve the problem directly. I run a Copperhead heat break on my machine w/ about 0.7mm retraction. Works great!
Aye red rope tags , remove before flight ✈️ in aircraft.
for that scoop looking thing you kept trying to print, I would make one side of it entirely flat, ie the outside circle into a square, and print it on the side, that way you can avoid needed supports on that big overhang. even turning the outside to a hex/octagon would make printing on its side very easy.
my guess as to why the trees kept messing up is that you have a lot of retractions going on with very little filament extruded. a retractions is when the print pulls a little bit of the filament up so that the nozzle doesn't ooze and leave boogers on things while it moves position to position. so the teeth on the extruder are basically going back and forth over the same little section of filament and flattening it out like you see. there should be settings like "retraction speed" "retraction distance" "wipe" "disable retractions" and lots of others that you can fiddle with to prevent that in the future.
letting go, yea, that's the most effective prescription for depression, anxiety, anger, remorse, and resentment.
Yep you was just over working the filament the drive wheel rolls over the same place so many time it will flatten the filament and cause it to jam. You can try to lower the wheel pressure but if your unit runs great I recommend just not using that many stops and start
are bith the radar and starlink receiver/transmitters next to each other? maybe change that? or maybe put noise cores on all the lines?
6 feet apart. But there is no need for radar and Starlink at the same time.
Curious. Have you thought about using a cape horn steering vane?
Briefly, but I have not seen a steering vane on a 65 ton vessel and now that I have sailed her with and without autopilot I really don't see any need for it.
@@SVSeeker well the boat is custom build no reason to not build a custom wind vane steering system. It was a thought. I'm sure you have a dedicated crew rotation, so it's not needed but it was a thought for coastal and open water sailing. Have a wonderful weekend sir.
@@MistiMoan It might work, but why? Balance the sails and it follows the wind. I you want it more accurate or the seas are high, then let the autopilot follow the wind.
@@SVSeeker redundancy, should always be the name of the game... It's a sail boat afterall. If your power goes out you will still have a system to keep you on course while you repair. Doesn't that make sense sir?
@@MistiMoan You are right. That's why I have 3 ways to make power, 4 hydraulic pumps, and the spares and materials to completely replace all of the hydraulic lines and valves. : )
The trees should be bagged up but on sell from railroad model tree. They will itt
Speaking of reflective surfaces, when I was a kid, we messed around with launching giant hot air balloons without permits. I built giant fireboxes made out of aluminum foil fueled with Cube-Lite (no longer made), a petroleum 1" cube that burned until used up. We let it go in an alcove and the wind sheer rolled it upside down and the flame emitting from the fire box cut the balloon in half and turned that large fire box on its side. We figured it would come down, but it didn't. The balloon, originally shaped like a football, now looked like a giant double D bra with a jet engine below it. It stalled over a reservoir spillway and the wind currents had it flying in big squares. Then the police helicopter showed up, attracted by the large reflective metal bottom of the firebox (I think). We pretended to be fishing. The helicopter flew around and over it trying to blow it down, but instead they just knocked it out of its stall and it flew up into the atmosphere somewhere. Never saw it again. Thankfully, no one had video phones back then.
Love it.
Finding your way in 3d printing. The print failure was a jam. Once cleared, look at seasoning the throat with a hi temp oil like avocado or olive, canola in a pinch. And make sure the heat sink fan has not taken a hair or filament whisp onto the blades slowing it down and causing heat creep to cause a jam.....
Edit. That filament had a bulge in diameter, measure to check, but past the gouge at stall if it's ove 1.78mm toss the spool. Hope you don't have a bunch of junk filament......=(
Tip 2, the planter, if you put it on its side the c
Radius would be stronger, the support in cavity would be out of site. I look at models like wood, print in orientation that is strongest with the grain.....fwiw
Great episode Doug. From an old armchair explorer.
Try Orca Slicer
It looks like you hot end cooling fan isn't able to keep up. The filament is thicker than it should be, into where the hot end heatsink is. Which I would think is the reason for the drive gear issue. Try reducing your retracts down to .4 mm if higher. I don't have never had that issue. I also only print in air conditioned air. What are your chamber temps? Opening the door might help.
Build a car, a plane, a boat and leaving with it, has been the dreams of every little kid. As we grow older we realize how unfeasible this is. Then comes Doug Jackson that shows you it's not true at all. Your adventures are fantastic.♥
Are the Dolphins messin around at 9:53? Nice to know the printer doesn't have to be absolutely level to operate.
Hey just an idea why don't you use carbon fiber battens!
$$$
My stupid trophy shelf is full, 😂😂😂😂
LOL
You forget your successes over time, but you remember your screw-ups forever, at least I do 🤣
What can you do to get rid of the radar/Starlink interference?
We only use Starlink to get weather while on route, so it's not a big deal to just turn off the radar. We really don't need radar during the day.
There is a reddit that talks about it. Three things you can do: 1) Get the Starlink antenna
out of the path of the radar beam ( +or- 15 deg outside radar plane ). 2) Switch the radar's pulse length from L to M2, if possible. 3) Get a secondary Starlink antenna, and use a bonding VPN to consolidate the signals into one stream, so that when one antenna is shadowed, or interfered with by the radar beam, the internet flux is not interrupted.
😎
Screws are too short
That's what she said.
Maybe use a length of a piece of that batten material and weld on the backside to reinforce? Or sleeve it.
Actually I think we are better off if it breaks and does not bend out of shape.
Hand lines
great vid
Doug, that was me that suggested coating the prints. I run a 3d printing business and if you ever need any assistance feel free to holler. Be more than glad to help.