Thank you Craig for the kind comment, it’s much appreciated and encouraging. The full stars version is definitely winning the vote. I still think it was worth sharing the star reduced one so that people can see the possibilities. Thanks again.
Very Helpful presentation! Marc. Thank you. I have one question about 6minutes you obtain L and add back using LRGB Combination tool with Lightness 0.5 and Saturation 0.25. Actually this portion really helped where I wanted to improve in my own. I appreciate it if you could further explain of this handling like thoughts/considerations based on. Thanks in advance.
Great video! Definitely like the quicker video as much of the processing segments can take up a bit of time and usually including personal taste. The second version looks great! Well done!
Nice. I just processed my image of M31 taken with a Rokinon 135 and an ASI533MC Pro. My workflow is roughly the same as yours but I used GHS instead of histogram transformation.I appreciated a some of the technical ‘pearls’ you highlighted, some of which I hadn’t used.
Nice job Marc going in to detail but keeping it simple that not only helping beginners but encouraging new people to take up the hobby or to take things a step upwards with there Journey
Hi and congratulations for your tutorial and the image !!! How did you find those scripts that you apply the stars only and starless image and the blending mode afterwards? Where can I find them please?
Thanks Bob, to rename an image you create a pixel math process and in the settings at the bottom you can specify to replace the image or create a new one, select that and type the name. I hope this is right as I’m doing this from memory. 😀
Nice! I like the overview, avoiding the detail. There are plenty of detailed tutorials out there, and getting a quick look at how others do it is really convenient. One quibble: using DBE samples only on the edges isn't optimal. It can miss/undercorrect gradients in the middle. You want samples throughout the image, avoiding, of course, the galaxy/nebula.
A few have said that too. It's interesting to see how different people prefer different images which is what makes this hobby great, because we all have the same targets, the same view of the night sky and yet we can produce different images that some love and some don't. The important thing is what the creator loves the most as it's their image and they need to be happy with it. I can't decide, I love all 3 versions and change my mind from one minute to the next. :D
One more comment if I may. I’d appreciate more processing videos where you take more time. I’m learning a lot and look forward to seeing a few more intermediate steps.
Another great video Marc! Nice run through in Pixinsight for a quick edit, excellent result! I think the second image looks great with fewer stars👍I first saw that Luminance trick when you add it in LRGB and untick RGB, then decrease the saturation to 2.5 from Steve (Entering into space). Does a nice job! Clear skies mate!
I can’t remember where I saw that LRGB trick either. It was either Entering into space or it might have been a random Highpoint Scientific video. Works well though.
Excellent video! Loved the quickness. I’ll just start and stop when processing my recent capture of M31. I think that I’m reaching the intermediate level (or maybe I’m just flattering myself!). Is there a way to add in (boost) the Ha? I used UHC & L-extreme filters. Thanks!
Marc, I was able to follow you until the very last step, how did this thing with pixelmath exactly work? because I only have one single pixelmath processicon.
Nice and indeed a good way to doing!! was you starting was FITS out of camera OR you created FITS by merging multiple images including lights, darks, flats and bias frames? if so then how did you do that one? is it possible do that with the Pixinsight?
So, dedicated Astro cameras output fits files. I then calibrate and stack these with the darks, flats etc to create an xisf file (when I do this in PixInsight or a fits file if I use Deep Sky Stacker). I would recommend PixInsight purely because the output quality seems better.
@@astrojourneyuk Thank you so much! in this example how many lights/dark/flats/bias files you had? this morning I got ASI533MC Pro and need to do experiments as I was using DSLR and there I was always have say 120 lights and accordingly I had dark/lights/bias frames. and Also does Pixinsights allows you to select those frames and does stacking OR I have to use some other software first then crated a stacked single FITS file and than use it in pixinsights?
many thanks for this, I picked up a few ideas that are different to the way I have been doing it so going to give it a try!. Just out of interest, did you stack in PI with WBPP, or something other stacking s/w? Many thanks!
Nice video. I dont understand what LRGBCombination is doing, whats its value... also on Pixel Maths - why not use ((Starless)+(Stars)? when I use your formula weird things happen. Thanks
Hi Michael, so the LRGB combination step is using Pseudo Luminance data (generated from the RGB image rather than taking luminance with a mono camera) and then using that to apply additional saturation. You can tweak the Saturation slider to increase or decrease the saturation of the image. Also, processing the luminance data to sharpen and enhance the image can be done as well before running the LRGB combination. On the PixelMath method, in short it helps retain the correct brightness and colour of the stars. See pixinsight.com/forum/index.php?threads/unscreening-and-re-screening-recombining-stars-with-starless-images.18602/ for more detail. When you remove the stars are you "unscreening" them?
Lots of great tips, thanks! I use morphological transformation at 5 to take out the peppering of smaller stars (same idea but a bit less extreme treatment)
I might have to give this a go soon. I tend not to have that many mono images. I started horsehead over winter and ran out of time. 😢 Frustrating because I’ve barely used the 2600MM Pro.
This is my new goto PI processing method. I’m going back to some of my past images and redoing them with this method. Is it possible to do a few more with different types of subjects? Such as: very bright (I know that M31 is bright, but I was thinking about M42) and then a faint one. Also, could you explain what is happening with the Luminous layer, namely the saturation. And, have you used Bill Blanshan’s HOO tool? It is great, but my colors and very lackluster. Thanks!!
thank you for taking the time to feedback. I'm pleased that this approach is helping you. What I always find is many different videos do things in very similar ways but then you can see little gems of detail that really help, so it's worth building on this using other videos. I like the idea of processing other targets, I have a Heart Nebula processing video but nothing super faint, probably because I live in a bortle 6 and I tend to avoid the faint targets. Bill's HOO Pixel Math scripts are fantastic. I spent a bit of time a while back trying to understand more of what's going on and then gave up, I have had some good output from them, but you need to boost saturation and curves after.
@@astrojourneyuk Have you tried Generalized Hyperbolic Stretching? After watching a few videos, it looks similar to your method (with the same results), but a lot more complex. I think that I’ll stick with your technique.
Thanks for the quick run through of your process! I prefer the 1st version as I find star removal actually takes something of the reality away at the same time. Its a bit like alcohol free wine … interesting as a process but not as satisfying in the drinking there of. Lol. Other videos going into more detail of some of those more esoteric Pixinsight processes would be great too!
:) I love your analogy! Certainly starless or significantly star reduced images is a matter of taste and it's more art than accuracy by that point and I find it interesting to hear peoples views on this.
Whenever I save the subtraction information and put it off to the side, and then do division, it completely cuts out, everything, aside from the star of my Galaxy. Any insight on why that might be?
It might be that you have a lower resolution screen and the icons are off the screen? Can you scroll over to the right and see the icons. They should be present in the process icons file linked in the description.
Excellent video and it goes to show what used to take 45 minutes to hours can now take 10 minutes. I have several questions since I’m still a noob even after 3 years in the hobby. Does it matter if I do Dynamic Background extraction before the Color Calibration and your pixel math expression is different than just Starless + Stars, can you explain yours? Also why not use some color masks to bring out some Ha and more Oiii ? Clear Skies!
It’s an interesting question about DBE and when to do it. One reason for doing it at the start is because of the platesolving info being in the image and if you crop it, then you have to platesolve again to use Photometric Colour Calibration, however looking at “Inside PixInsight” it puts crop, DBE, Background Neutralisation then Colour Calibration. So, I’m not sure. 🙈
On looking at the Pixel Math question I’ve been looking into this because it baffled me too. It’s something down to retaining colour in the stars and preventing them from blowing out too.
@@astrojourneyuk I’ve always from day 1 did dbe after cropping and before any color calibration but I guess it works your way because that M31 came out beautiful.
I’ve always thought I should do two versions, one short and snappy and one at a gentler pace. Maybe slow the video down in UA-cam, that might work? I’ve not tried though.
@AstroJourneyUK it's difficult to say as a tutorial. I'd like to see a longer video. But it's still keeping the audience interested in the video, so mabey short tutorial on certain points like a series on pixinsight, for example
Very interesting video and well explained. about you questions some more detailed informative videos please and I like the image with less stars more because it brings out the galaxy better and it has a more dramatic look. Keep up the good work !
For broadband targets like galaxies I typically shoot with either a colour camera and the Optolong L-Pro light pollution filter or go for LRGB. I live in a bortle 6/7 so I always need a filter.
I have done the rosette nebula in February but have been teaching myself screen capture plus a little photoshop editing wich is challenging for me to be honest
Quite a few people have said that too. I tried another after doing this video by reducing MLT to about 50% and personally I quite liked it. But it’s definitely down to personal preference.
No doubt you are an expert at this process but to be honest this doesn't help me learn this software. You are going through it so fast plus I have no clue what the terms are that you are using.
When I do these videos I should just call it a trailer. Sometimes I’m in a rock and a hard place. Some people like quick videos and others like longer ones. I’ll find a balance one day. Thanks for the feedback.
Nice video. Quick and easy processing guide. you really deserve more subs this video was great.
Thank you. That’s super kind of you to say. I’ve been taking a bit of a break these past two months. Coming back soon with more videos!
Thank you for the quick and sooooo efficient tour on M31!
No problem. Happy to help.
Another brilliant video Marc. At the end I actually like the more stars version. Thanks so much. Love your channel
Thank you Craig for the kind comment, it’s much appreciated and encouraging. The full stars version is definitely winning the vote. I still think it was worth sharing the star reduced one so that people can see the possibilities. Thanks again.
Thanks for keeping the video short! I was able to bring out colors and more details from my stacked file by following your video. Thanks
Im glad you found it helpful!
Woooow the second image creates such an amazing depth. Absolute brilliant👍👍👍
Thanks for commenting. I think this question has people split. 😀
Hopefully this helps then. I was in your boat about 2-3 years ago. These days I have issues getting data due to cloud. 😂
This was great video and extremely helpful! I processed M33 along with your workflow and it turned out great! Set up my icons/workflow like yours.
Very Helpful presentation! Marc. Thank you. I have one question about 6minutes you obtain L and add back using LRGB Combination tool with Lightness 0.5 and Saturation 0.25. Actually this portion really helped where I wanted to improve in my own. I appreciate it if you could further explain of this handling like thoughts/considerations based on. Thanks in advance.
Great video! Definitely like the quicker video as much of the processing segments can take up a bit of time and usually including personal taste. The second version looks great! Well done!
Thanks for watching and letting me know your thoughts on the video and image 1 or 2. I think it’s about 5 votes to 3 at the moment. :)
Looking fantastic already
Thanks
Nice. I just processed my image of M31 taken with a Rokinon 135 and an ASI533MC Pro. My workflow is roughly the same as yours but I used GHS instead of histogram transformation.I appreciated a some of the technical ‘pearls’ you highlighted, some of which I hadn’t used.
Nice job Marc going in to detail but keeping it simple that not only helping beginners but encouraging new people to take up the hobby or to take things a step upwards with there Journey
No problem Chris happy to help. Simple is where I am. 😀😀😀
Hi and congratulations for your tutorial and the image !!! How did you find those scripts that you apply the stars only and starless image and the blending mode afterwards? Where can I find them please?
Fantastic Video, Marc. It was just what I needed. Quick question: how do you use pixelmath to rename an image? Thanks! Bob Schultz, Winters, CA
Thanks Bob, to rename an image you create a pixel math process and in the settings at the bottom you can specify to replace the image or create a new one, select that and type the name. I hope this is right as I’m doing this from memory. 😀
Nice! I like the overview, avoiding the detail. There are plenty of detailed tutorials out there, and getting a quick look at how others do it is really convenient. One quibble: using DBE samples only on the edges isn't optimal. It can miss/undercorrect gradients in the middle. You want samples throughout the image, avoiding, of course, the galaxy/nebula.
Thanks Dave. I could do with doing some comparisons around DBE approaches. This one’s definitely quick but likely has its limitations as you say.
In terms of both images I prefer something inbetween, great video
A few have said that too. It's interesting to see how different people prefer different images which is what makes this hobby great, because we all have the same targets, the same view of the night sky and yet we can produce different images that some love and some don't. The important thing is what the creator loves the most as it's their image and they need to be happy with it. I can't decide, I love all 3 versions and change my mind from one minute to the next. :D
One more comment if I may. I’d appreciate more processing videos where you take more time. I’m learning a lot and look forward to seeing a few more intermediate steps.
Hi Craig, no problem and thank you for the feedback and I’ll see what I can do.
Another great video Marc! Nice run through in Pixinsight for a quick edit, excellent result! I think the second image looks great with fewer stars👍I first saw that Luminance trick when you add it in LRGB and untick RGB, then decrease the saturation to 2.5 from Steve (Entering into space). Does a nice job! Clear skies mate!
I can’t remember where I saw that LRGB trick either. It was either Entering into space or it might have been a random Highpoint Scientific video. Works well though.
Excellent video! Loved the quickness. I’ll just start and stop when processing my recent capture of M31. I think that I’m reaching the intermediate level (or maybe I’m just flattering myself!). Is there a way to add in (boost) the Ha? I used UHC & L-extreme filters. Thanks!
I think intermediate is a very wide range, so I'm sure you're there. :) When you say boost the Ha do you mean in capture or processing?
Thank you for this and the practice image...very helpful as I plan to target this over multiple nights later in the year....thanks again!
This is an excellent work flow and presentation.
Thanks Rouzbeh.
Extraordinary! What was your setup to capture this?
The setup was the William Optics RedCat51 telescope, ZWO ASI183MC Pro cooled to -20C and the ZWO AM5 mount from memory.
Thank you learnt more about how bad I am 🙂 at processing but this is great !
Marc, I was able to follow you until the very last step, how did this thing with pixelmath exactly work? because I only have one single pixelmath processicon.
Nice and indeed a good way to doing!! was you starting was FITS out of camera OR you created FITS by merging multiple images including lights, darks, flats and bias frames? if so then how did you do that one? is it possible do that with the Pixinsight?
So, dedicated Astro cameras output fits files. I then calibrate and stack these with the darks, flats etc to create an xisf file (when I do this in PixInsight or a fits file if I use Deep Sky Stacker). I would recommend PixInsight purely because the output quality seems better.
@@astrojourneyuk Thank you so much! in this example how many lights/dark/flats/bias files you had? this morning I got ASI533MC Pro and need to do experiments as I was using DSLR and there I was always have say 120 lights and accordingly I had dark/lights/bias frames. and Also does Pixinsights allows you to select those frames and does stacking OR I have to use some other software first then crated a stacked single FITS file and than use it in pixinsights?
Darks, Bias and Flats tend to be 30 frames each.
For light frames it was about 200 subs. (17 hours of 5 minute subs)
many thanks for this, I picked up a few ideas that are different to the way I have been doing it so going to give it a try!. Just out of interest, did you stack in PI with WBPP, or something other stacking s/w? Many thanks!
I use WBPP exclusively now as it fits with my overall workflow and equipment. I hope the ideas help. Good luck.
Nice video. I dont understand what LRGBCombination is doing, whats its value... also on Pixel Maths - why not use ((Starless)+(Stars)? when I use your formula weird things happen. Thanks
Hi Michael, so the LRGB combination step is using Pseudo Luminance data (generated from the RGB image rather than taking luminance with a mono camera) and then using that to apply additional saturation. You can tweak the Saturation slider to increase or decrease the saturation of the image. Also, processing the luminance data to sharpen and enhance the image can be done as well before running the LRGB combination.
On the PixelMath method, in short it helps retain the correct brightness and colour of the stars. See pixinsight.com/forum/index.php?threads/unscreening-and-re-screening-recombining-stars-with-starless-images.18602/ for more detail. When you remove the stars are you "unscreening" them?
Lots of great tips, thanks! I use morphological transformation at 5 to take out the peppering of smaller stars (same idea but a bit less extreme treatment)
It’s a good point, I think I change things each time I do them. Getting stars in the image that are too over powering but still “natural” is key.
first image
Quick tutorials are just fine!
Thanks Ijon, much appreciated.
Great result with more stars. Would be interested to see workflow with a mono camera.
I might have to give this a go soon. I tend not to have that many mono images. I started horsehead over winter and ran out of time. 😢 Frustrating because I’ve barely used the 2600MM Pro.
The RC Astro tools are nice, but they are expensive. Are there any other alternative to those tools? Thanks
This is my new goto PI processing method. I’m going back to some of my past images and redoing them with this method. Is it possible to do a few more with different types of subjects? Such as: very bright (I know that M31 is bright, but I was thinking about M42) and then a faint one. Also, could you explain what is happening with the Luminous layer, namely the saturation. And, have you used Bill Blanshan’s HOO tool? It is great, but my colors and very lackluster. Thanks!!
thank you for taking the time to feedback. I'm pleased that this approach is helping you. What I always find is many different videos do things in very similar ways but then you can see little gems of detail that really help, so it's worth building on this using other videos. I like the idea of processing other targets, I have a Heart Nebula processing video but nothing super faint, probably because I live in a bortle 6 and I tend to avoid the faint targets. Bill's HOO Pixel Math scripts are fantastic. I spent a bit of time a while back trying to understand more of what's going on and then gave up, I have had some good output from them, but you need to boost saturation and curves after.
@@astrojourneyuk Heart Nebula is good!
@@astrojourneyuk Have you tried Generalized Hyperbolic Stretching? After watching a few videos, it looks similar to your method (with the same results), but a lot more complex. I think that I’ll stick with your technique.
Brilliant video!!! Thankyou!!!
Thanks.
Thanks for the quick run through of your process! I prefer the 1st version as I find star removal actually takes something of the reality away at the same time. Its a bit like alcohol free wine … interesting as a process but not as satisfying in the drinking there of. Lol.
Other videos going into more detail of some of those more esoteric Pixinsight processes would be great too!
:) I love your analogy! Certainly starless or significantly star reduced images is a matter of taste and it's more art than accuracy by that point and I find it interesting to hear peoples views on this.
Awesome video. Subscribed!
Thanks Justin! Much appreciated.
Looking forward to this
Hopefully, I won't disappoint. :)
Always good content on here
@@Astro.Q Thank you, I'll pay you later. :D
@@astrojourneyuk lol 😂😂
Whenever I save the subtraction information and put it off to the side, and then do division, it completely cuts out, everything, aside from the star of my Galaxy. Any insight on why that might be?
Do you have a similar image, i.e. M31 is taking up a similar amount of the image? What was your setup, integration time etc?
i do not see the createstarlessimage and the other ones you used for final image. is that a add on or something?
It might be that you have a lower resolution screen and the icons are off the screen? Can you scroll over to the right and see the icons. They should be present in the process icons file linked in the description.
Excellent video and it goes to show what used to take 45 minutes to hours can now take 10 minutes. I have several questions since I’m still a noob even after 3 years in the hobby. Does it matter if I do Dynamic Background extraction before the Color Calibration and your pixel math expression is different than just Starless + Stars, can you explain yours? Also why not use some color masks to bring out some Ha and more Oiii ?
Clear Skies!
It’s an interesting question about DBE and when to do it. One reason for doing it at the start is because of the platesolving info being in the image and if you crop it, then you have to platesolve again to use Photometric Colour Calibration, however looking at “Inside PixInsight” it puts crop, DBE, Background Neutralisation then Colour Calibration. So, I’m not sure. 🙈
On looking at the Pixel Math question I’ve been looking into this because it baffled me too. It’s something down to retaining colour in the stars and preventing them from blowing out too.
On the colour masks, I really should have done this, to be honest it was a missing step. I’ll blame me trying to keep it short and sweet.
Great questions by the way!
@@astrojourneyuk I’ve always from day 1 did dbe after cropping and before any color calibration but I guess it works your way because that M31 came out beautiful.
Is the original image already cropped ? I also have a RedCat51, and it doesn't look as big as you on my raw files. Thanks :)
What camera are you using? Mine is a ASI183MC Pro. This was quite a while ago however, I tend to keep as much of the image as possible.
Its a sony a7ii
Great video, bit fast explanation though. I would love to see a slower and more detailed version. Thank you!
I’ve always thought I should do two versions, one short and snappy and one at a gentler pace. Maybe slow the video down in UA-cam, that might work? I’ve not tried though.
Nice tutorial 👌
Thanks for that. What did you think of the length and style? More detail or was the quick view helpful?
@AstroJourneyUK it's difficult to say as a tutorial. I'd like to see a longer video. But it's still keeping the audience interested in the video, so mabey short tutorial on certain points like a series on pixinsight, for example
Very interesting video and well explained. about you questions some more detailed informative videos please and I like the image with less stars more because it brings out the galaxy better and it has a more dramatic look.
Keep up the good work !
Thank you Seigfried for the feedback and the image vote.
buenas un buen video
Did you shoot this with a filter at all?
For broadband targets like galaxies I typically shoot with either a colour camera and the Optolong L-Pro light pollution filter or go for LRGB. I live in a bortle 6/7 so I always need a filter.
Thanks.
what was the exposure time?
It was 17 hours from a Bortle 6 sky.
Great
Thanks!
#1
That’s winning so far. 😀
Im just editing at the moment will be a welcome break
What are you editing?
I have done the rosette nebula in February but have been teaching myself screen capture plus a little photoshop editing wich is challenging for me to be honest
So that will be my next video I'm pretty happy with the result I've used your tutorial plus astro Stacey's to get going
1st image for me Marc, too few in 2nd
Quite a few people have said that too. I tried another after doing this video by reducing MLT to about 50% and personally I quite liked it. But it’s definitely down to personal preference.
Hello all
No doubt you are an expert at this process but to be honest this doesn't help me learn this software. You are going through it so fast plus I have no clue what the terms are that you are using.
When I do these videos I should just call it a trailer. Sometimes I’m in a rock and a hard place. Some people like quick videos and others like longer ones. I’ll find a balance one day. Thanks for the feedback.
2 suggestions: 1. Slow it down, and 2. look for beginner PI processing videos. Been there.
You can slow down video playback speed on UA-cam as well. This also helps me when learning
Great vid
Stars in, much better
That’s pretty much what everyone else has been saying too. I do like it with a bit of reduction but 0.85 certainly seemed a bit too much.
You go far too fast, i find this almost unwatchable, is this aimed at the expert, if so, no good to me.