Better than manufacture's video, but recommend a rat-tail file inside on the cuts, BUSHINGS (in the accessory kit) are required in my area, along with a pigtail ground to each outlet. Nice editing, no annoying music. Great video.
What amazed me is, people like zimsjeep taking the time to put out great video sharing his knowledge to help other people, true American, our world need more people like you zimsjeep. Great video, really appreciated sir.
Necro note: Should use the "bushings" provided in the hardware pack at all cut ends of raceways (and file burrs off first). That will reduce the risk of cutting insulation when pulling wires. Also, it is better to directly connect all ground wires together (e.g. with a wire nut and pigtail), instead of relying on box hardware to complete the ground path back to the breaker panel. If a short occurs, you want low resistance so the breaker pops immediately, rather than (possibly) having a miniature arc welder where the box parts touch!
Great video, good audio, and articulation, with clear instruction, covering all the pertinent details. List of parts at the beginning was very helpful. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make and post the video.
Even though this is a 9 year old thread, the information is timeless... THANKS for creating the video and thanks to the commentors for your contributions, the replies to which clear up other questions...!
Thank you so much for creating this video! I watched it several times while I was installing 3 new outlets and going around a few corners. Great job, this was a huge help to my project!!!
This is a great wire mold installation video . The only thing I disagree on is the way he passed the circuit through the devices/outlets . Not sure when this was actually recorded but since 2014 NEC : circuits shall not be connected through devices but rather pigtailed to achieve the same parallel connection . This prevents circuit impedance Incase of device failure . Still a great explanation on how to install wire mold . Thank you .
Good detailed video , you can buy bushings that fit inside the track when installing it inside the box, it protects the wires.Was looking for the clamps that hold the channel. Didn't realise they come in a package with various clamps. Thought it was in separate package. Lots of good pointers in your video on installing.
Well done, looks doable. Sure I'll figure out some way to get into trouble but seems to be a good introduction into the wire mold system. I was wondering about the burr on the end of the raceways and I see Mr. Avera below me takes up the subject of the plastic bushings provided to alleviate that danger. Maybe a comment about not adding too much to any one breaker by exploring the circuit that you are tapping onto and checking the gauge of those original wires and supplying breaker size used for that outlet we tapped onto. Worst case would be adding 12 gauge wire to a circuit supply using 14 originally. Someone in the future could see the the 12 gauge and up the breaker size at the box from 15 to 20 amps and you would have a fire hazard.
Great video. I had one electrician come out and wanted to charge me $500 per outlet. I’m sure y’all know I didn’t get the work done. Thank you for this good information.
Excellent video. The original outlet is a 15 amp. Check the wiring to that outlet. If it is 12 ga, then what you are doing is fine. It just means that someone replaced the original 20 amp outlet with a 15 amp version. BUT if it is14 ga wire feeding that outlet then adding 20 amp wiring and 20 amp sockets does not make it a 20 amp circuit. Not to code. Also, BW9-10-11 kit should come with inserts that you install at the cut ends of the raceway to keep the sharp ends from cutting into the insulation.
Dan Burch Thanks. Yes, the original circuit is 12 ga wire. It is within code to install 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. However you cannot install 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp circuit. I had no need for 20 amp outlets. I just wanted the extra amperage capacity on the circuit. You are correct about the bushing inserts. I typically don't install them and use extra care when pulling the wire. It is however good practice to use them. Thanks again for stopping by my channel.
Not to mention anything in the Garage should be GFCI protected so either you need a GFI Arc fault breaker or a GFCI outlet where the power first comes in is your Line side and Load side out to the other Receptacles.
Thanks for a nice video. This helped me complete a wiremold project that I had started and got stuck on. Your tip about bending the tab out a little was very helpful. I see you don't use the plastic receptacle box either. The only hard part I had was I had to steer around a protruding stud, so I just used bare romex for that part.
Thanks, glad the video helped. Yes the bushings should be used as skinning the wire accidentally is a possibility if you don't use Wiremold often. I've worked with this stuff many times and don't use them anymore.
zimsjeep we did use the bushings (in the accessory pack) though we were using romex which has the additional outside insulation, but it was nice to cover that sharp edge on the wire channel.
Just thought I'd mention that with wire-molding (aka metal raceway) any time you cut the molding you should insert a bushing into the end. Your install kit should have come with these, if not, you should make sure you pick some up. After you cut the molding to length, you should take a fine file and clear and burrs, then the bushing slides into the end you cut. The bushing will protect the wire (and your fingers) from getting cut by any sharp edges. I also noticed you used unshielded wire, I'm not sure if you removed the shielding from normal wire to make it slide through the wire-mold easier?
The receptacles and the wire old system are all bonded together via the ground. The outlets themselves as the come from the factory will be grounded via the ears on the receptacle. I also added a pigtail from the incoming ground to the rear of the first box mounting plate
Nevermind. Went back and watched again. The ones that were originally go to the outlet on the right and the ones that got added to the left. Repeat down the line. Thanks. Got the Derp right now.
Thank you! Out on a job and this looks like the only viable solution, but I've never done it ... the wired mold part, the wiring's not a problem. Excellent, informative video. ... and nice job too!
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm doing this on a concrete ceiling and worried about how the molding is going to look in the living room. And I'm also concerned about anchoring to a concrete ceiling and the molding being able to sit flush inside the bracketsdue to the height of the anchor. I also agree with the poster who mentioned there should be plastic bushings at the ends of those metal moldings no question about it
There is another option to mount the track. It's a u shaped bracket that sits on the top of the track and has 2 screw holes on either side. Perfect for concrete and you can use as big a screw as needed. I've never used the bushings but if it makes you more comfortable, go for it! Thanks for watching.
Nice video. Per NEC, you should not jumper receptacles in a 4-banger outlet assembly. Recepts should have individual ungrounded conductors and grounded conductors and grounding conductors, all pigtailed to branch wiring.
Wow man you did a great job with this video. I need to look into corner pieces but they are the exact opposite of what you are using, it would be an outside corner i hope they sell them
Thanks for the helpful intro to wiremold surface mount wiring. I'd use 20 A outlets (have the horizontal tang on the neutral) vs 15 A since you're using AWG 12 and are likely protecting the circuit with a 20 A breaker. Per code everything in the circuit needs to be rated for whatever size breaker you're using.
Thanks for the comment but that’s not the code. You’re permitted to use 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. All that means is you can’t use 20 amp appliances on this circuit since the plugs won’t fit. I’ve actually never had any tool or appliance with a 20 amp plug
I used THHN copper wire to run in the wiremold, not Romex. It's usually not good practice (and against code in some areas) to run Romex inside conduit or wiremold. Thanks for watching!
The green wire ground must be connected at every outlet and switch. The explanation was a little vague on this topic. You cannot use the metal frame work as the source of ground though it does need to be grounded as shown in this video. At the first box with power, pigtail the green wires, one to the metal frame and one wire to the outlets and the third to the next box in line. Another is drywall screws are for drywall hanging, not for electrical work. It also did not show the bushings are boxed in the "accessory" pack to protect the wires at the end of the raceway. When you do need to cut the raceway, use a file to smooth the edges and use 502 or 702 bushings.
Nice install I just used EMT in my garage looks very nice imo just take your time bending it. Seems a little more sturdier than the wire mould stuff but I wouldn't know I haven't used wire mould ever
Fantastic work. You really know what you are doing, in the installation of the product as well as in the video presentation. Besides that, you have the gift of teaching. Question: Does the Wiremold 700 series include a 45 degree outside angle? I can't seem to find it.
He forgot to mention that you can buy bushings to place on each side of the track after cutting so won’t have to worry about damaging your wires on the sharp edges. If it’s a first time DIY project adding bushing might make you less likely to damage the wires. But this is a good video.
This has been mentioned a few times in the comments, yes you can add bushings. I install this stuff regularly in commercial buildings and don’t use them, but as you mentioned first time installs might find them beneficial. Thanks for the comment.
Nice job. Very helpful, thanks! I have a question: it looks like your inside corner overlaps the rail a bit, and yet there is enough of a lip for it to snap onto the rail, is this correct?
You attached the ground wire to the metal plate. I'm assuming you also attached the ground wire to each outlet and the green wire to the plate or one of the outlets? I'm assuming plate.
The correct way to connect multiple grounds in a box is to attach a separate ground wire to each device (receptacle, switch etc) AND the box, then wire nut them all together. That way, if a ground separates from any device all the other grounds will still be intact. The insulating bushings are REQUIRED by the NEC (in section 342.46). Yes, I am an apprenticed Electrician.
Maybe you could add the use of a plugin circuit tester to check that the correct circuit breaker is turned off. Then the tester could also test the new circuit for proper polarity and grounding. Just an extra safety check :)
It would have been helpful if you would have shown the wire being pushed through the corner piece which can be tricky for some people. It's little things like that that your average guy has problems with. Other than that, good video.
Good video but you didn't take the time to show how the duplex is connected to wires with pigtails and you didn't show how the duplex is fastened to the starter box. These extra shots will help the DIY novice.
Nice video.. just one more thing to note to the watchers out there.. this 20amp circuit is in a garage.. it should be GFCI protected.. and file your ends.. and use a bushing as not to run into the potential of a short from scraping wires.. other than that.. very informative.
Thanks for the comment and for watching. My garage is my workshop - this circuit is dedicated for power tools. Power tools/motors and gfci's generally don't like each other. The high amperage draw at startup can lead to nuisance trips. The convenience outlet on the other side of the garage that would be used for outside purposes is gfci protected. Thanks again for watching.
I do know what you're saying thou.. example being.. a freezer in a garage.. don't want that food ( could be in the hundreds of dollars going to waste when you're away). Have a good one.
Just a question. Why are you not using a GFI plug in a place where you apparently be using heavy equipment. Are does the electrical code in your area not require it.
Well hell, That took me like 10 mins to knock out the middle metal plate knockout. Great video! Fyi you have to add 3/8" to each end of measurement and also clean up your cut ends and there is also bushings that go into the ends of cut track.
Haha, yup. With the magic of video editing, I made it look easy but I believe it took me the same to knock that plate out. Hope the project turned out good!
Great video.. I hate to be this guy but the grounds should all be spliced at the outlet and then pigtailed off to the grounding screw on the wire mold and the ground at the outlet.
Zim, thanks for the videos, I am a subscriber. Hopefully you still get reply notices. A question: I have a freezer in the back of my garage. I have two outlets in the garage, one in the ceiling (unswitched) for the door opener and one GFI near the door. I want to power the freezer with a separate feed from a origination point with it's own GFI, because I don't want to chance a trip from a power tool in the daisy chain. (If it trips and it goes unnoticed, the contents of the freezer will be toast) Should I just run a separate wire mold and feed for this purpose..? Thanks in advance for your expertise and reply. RJ
EDGE IS ShardHARP! Really! Don't forget to use a standard hand file to de-ber the inside of the track when you saw to fit. INSTALL the bushings from the accessory pack to protect the writing from getting "skinned." It's in the accessory kit, please use it to protect your work. Stay safe😝
Check to see if the plastic is rated for line voltage. I use the plastic stuff a lot for low voltage stuff at work...always found the boxes to be flimsy.
What about the grounds I seen you attached the one but I seen other videos that the are attaching a lot of ground together please explain if you can I would appreciate it thank you
zimsjeep Great video! Thinking about putting a freezer in my garage. The available outlet is just out of reach, so I was going to add another outlet from that point close to where the freezer will sit. Any advice/suggestions? I don’t see any gfci outlets in garage.
Can you clarify one thing...is the original outlet a 15amp or 20amp circuit? If it is 15amp circuit, can you run a 20amp circuit from it? Should a 20amp outlet have a "T" slot on one of the slot?
I went to Lowes to get my supplies to do the job & I wasn't sure to get the 2 gang boxes that were 1 3/8" deep or 1 3/4". The 1 3/4" are $5.00 more & I needed 5 boxes for my job. What did you use?
Frank Desantis when I originally made the video, I believe I used the smaller boxes. I’ve since added on to the original setup and used the larger boxes which give you more room to work. If you don’t mind the look of the larger box, I recommend you use them.
David Grocesley Yes, just make sure you secure the box to framing in the ceiling because of the weight of the fixture. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Gil... It's been a year since you asked. So I don't know if anyone answered your question. An easy way to find the feed wires: Kill the power. Remove the wires from your device. Separate the pairs from each other. Wire nut each wire individually. Turn the power on. Using a non-contact voltage tester (very handy, cheap device), touch each of the wires until the tester glows. If you don't have a tester, kill the power & you'll have to reconnect one set of wires back onto the device. Turn the power back on. If the device works, you know it's the correct set (if you've reattached it correctly). Most times, you can see the pairs by looking to where they enter the box. They'll be in the same jacket. If there's no jacket visible, NEVER assume that wires will match (depending on their color). You never know how the last guy ran the wires. But if there's no jacket to help you, kill the power & separate the wires. Then wire nut each wire. Turn the power on & test.
Great video. Why did you feed the 12gau Romex into the raceway without the protective jacket? Do you have to remove the jacket to get 12gau romex to fit in this size raceway?
Audito Canarsie Thanks, that wasn't romex that I used. It's spooled thhn cable. It's generally considered bad practice and against code in some areas to use Romex in conduit and raceway systems. Hope this helps.
Better than manufacture's video, but recommend a rat-tail file inside on the cuts, BUSHINGS (in the accessory kit) are required in my area, along with a pigtail ground to each outlet. Nice editing, no annoying music. Great video.
Thanks and yes, good tips.
What amazed me is, people like zimsjeep taking the time to put out great video sharing his knowledge to help other people, true American, our world need more people like you zimsjeep. Great video, really appreciated sir.
Necro note: Should use the "bushings" provided in the hardware pack at all cut ends of raceways (and file burrs off first). That will reduce the risk of cutting insulation when pulling wires.
Also, it is better to directly connect all ground wires together (e.g. with a wire nut and pigtail), instead of relying on box hardware to complete the ground path back to the breaker panel. If a short occurs, you want low resistance so the breaker pops immediately, rather than (possibly) having a miniature arc welder where the box parts touch!
This video is more informative than the one that the manufacturer put out. Thanks!
I've watch many diy videos, this one is by far superior in quality and information. Thank you zimsjeep.
Thanks for stopping by.
Absolutely the very best Wire mold Install I have ever seen. I’m doing a very similar project and your video was a great help to me….. Bravo..👏
Great video, good audio, and articulation, with clear instruction, covering all the pertinent details. List of parts at the beginning was very helpful. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make and post the video.
This is one of the better instructional videos I've seen on youtube (and I've seen a lot). Great job on this.
Dude....thank you so much. I could not run the wires through my walls cause of the studs. This is the perfect solution.
Awesome, happy to help!!
Even though this is a 9 year old thread, the information is timeless... THANKS for creating the video and thanks to the commentors for your contributions, the replies to which clear up other questions...!
Thank you so much for creating this video! I watched it several times while I was installing 3 new outlets and going around a few corners. Great job, this was a huge help to my project!!!
+chelseab Great, glad the video helped!
This is a great wire mold installation video . The only thing I disagree on is the way he passed the circuit through the devices/outlets . Not sure when this was actually recorded but since 2014 NEC : circuits shall not be connected through devices but rather pigtailed to achieve the same parallel connection . This prevents circuit impedance Incase of device failure .
Still a great explanation on how to install wire mold .
Thank you .
Good detailed video , you can buy bushings that fit inside the track when installing it inside the box, it protects the wires.Was looking for the clamps that hold the channel. Didn't realise they come in a package with various clamps. Thought it was in separate package. Lots of good pointers in your video on installing.
Very well done. Clear, concise, easily understandable.
Thank you!!
Really good video. Clear description and pics and just enough detail. Thanks very much.
Thank you!!!
Well done, looks doable. Sure I'll figure out some way to get into trouble but seems to be a good introduction into the wire mold system. I was wondering about the burr on the end of the raceways and I see Mr. Avera below me takes up the subject of the plastic bushings provided to alleviate that danger. Maybe a comment about not adding too much to any one breaker by exploring the circuit that you are tapping onto and checking the gauge of those original wires and supplying breaker size used for that outlet we tapped onto. Worst case would be adding 12 gauge wire to a circuit supply using 14 originally. Someone in the future could see the the 12 gauge and up the breaker size at the box from 15 to 20 amps and you would have a fire hazard.
The only thing I can say... That's a great job.. Congratulations sir
Thank you!
Great video. I had one electrician come out and wanted to charge me $500 per outlet. I’m sure y’all know I didn’t get the work done. Thank you for this good information.
$500 per outlet? Geez... were his outlets made with platinum? I could see $50 per, but $500? Good lord.
This is a well made video that's really helpful, covering both the mounting and electrical instructions.
Great video! Used it today to seamlessly install two additional outlets in less than 2 hours!
Thank you for posting :)
Heather Cortes Great to hear! Thanks for stopping back to comment!
Excellent video. All the details I needed. Thanks so much.
Excellent video. The original outlet is a 15 amp. Check the wiring to that outlet. If it is 12 ga, then what you are doing is fine. It just means that someone replaced the original 20 amp outlet with a 15 amp version. BUT if it is14 ga wire feeding that outlet then adding 20 amp wiring and 20 amp sockets does not make it a 20 amp circuit. Not to code. Also, BW9-10-11 kit should come with inserts that you install at the cut ends of the raceway to keep the sharp ends from cutting into the insulation.
Dan Burch Thanks. Yes, the original circuit is 12 ga wire. It is within code to install 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. However you cannot install 20 amp receptacles on a 15 amp circuit. I had no need for 20 amp outlets. I just wanted the extra amperage capacity on the circuit.
You are correct about the bushing inserts. I typically don't install them and use extra care when pulling the wire. It is however good practice to use them. Thanks again for stopping by my channel.
Not to mention anything in the Garage should be GFCI protected so either you need a GFI Arc fault breaker or a GFCI outlet where the power first comes in is your Line side and Load side out to the other Receptacles.
@@AccordBass12The circuit breaker he turned off had red handle, so that is usually a gfi breaker.
Didn't think about double outlets until watching this. Good video.
Excellent video. I have never used wiremold, but I now feel confident I can hang that bedroom ceiling fan mounted on a pre-stressed concrete ceiling
Thanks for a nice video. This helped me complete a wiremold project that I had started and got stuck on. Your tip about bending the tab out a little was very helpful. I see you don't use the plastic receptacle box either. The only hard part I had was I had to steer around a protruding stud, so I just used bare romex for that part.
Thanks, glad the video helped. Yes the bushings should be used as skinning the wire accidentally is a possibility if you don't use Wiremold often. I've worked with this stuff many times and don't use them anymore.
zimsjeep we did use the bushings (in the accessory pack) though we were using romex which has the additional outside insulation, but it was nice to cover that sharp edge on the wire channel.
Just thought I'd mention that with wire-molding (aka metal raceway) any time you cut the molding you should insert a bushing into the end. Your install kit should have come with these, if not, you should make sure you pick some up. After you cut the molding to length, you should take a fine file and clear and burrs, then the bushing slides into the end you cut. The bushing will protect the wire (and your fingers) from getting cut by any sharp edges. I also noticed you used unshielded wire, I'm not sure if you removed the shielding from normal wire to make it slide through the wire-mold easier?
As he mentions.. careful pushing.. but to make it less of an issue.. you should file and use a bushing that removes that sharp edge.
You did an excellent job presenting this wiremold installation. Thank you!
Thank u i feel like with this knowledge i can upgrand my she shed electrical! I only need 2 more outlets great idea
GREAT video.... was very helpful as I sourced an outlets power and ran a surface mount line to the overhead projector in media room. Danke
Brooklyn Epperson Thanks...glad the video helped!
great video, you explained everything in a simple and easy to understand way, very helpful
Cesareo Cacho Thanks for the comment. Glad the video was helpful!
Really appreciate your video. Followed you instructions as I put in my own system. Really an excellent video. Thanks.
Really appreciate the video. I would like to know more about grounding the receptacles. Thank you
The receptacles and the wire old system are all bonded together via the ground. The outlets themselves as the come from the factory will be grounded via the ears on the receptacle. I also added a pigtail from the incoming ground to the rear of the first box mounting plate
Nevermind. Went back and watched again. The ones that were originally go to the outlet on the right and the ones that got added to the left. Repeat down the line. Thanks. Got the Derp right now.
Doesn’t matter which side is in and out, just match up your colors and screws. Gold is hot, silver is neutral.
Thank you! Out on a job and this looks like the only viable solution, but I've never done it ... the wired mold part, the wiring's not a problem. Excellent, informative video. ... and nice job too!
Thanks, glad it helped!
Thanks I am considering adding more plugs to my room this is better than the manufacturer video
Great info. Check outlet with meter after turning power off to insure no power at outlet.
Great video you answered all my questions
Excellent! Good luck with your project!!
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm doing this on a concrete ceiling and worried about how the molding is going to look in the living room. And I'm also concerned about anchoring to a concrete ceiling and the molding being able to sit flush inside the bracketsdue to the height of the anchor. I also agree with the poster who mentioned there should be plastic bushings at the ends of those metal moldings no question about it
There is another option to mount the track. It's a u shaped bracket that sits on the top of the track and has 2 screw holes on either side. Perfect for concrete and you can use as big a screw as needed. I've never used the bushings but if it makes you more comfortable, go for it! Thanks for watching.
thx zim, going to try this next weekend.
Nice video. Per NEC, you should not jumper receptacles in a 4-banger outlet assembly. Recepts should have individual ungrounded conductors and grounded conductors and grounding conductors, all pigtailed to branch wiring.
Gregory Spells Thanks for the comment and for watching!
What NEC article says that? Never had a problem doing it the way shown in the video.
great job explaining this job zimsjeep. Thank you! it helps a lot for beginners like myself!
Great, glad you found the video helpful!
Great vid! Straight to the point and simple! Thx!
You should be filing the burs off the inside of the tracks as well as adding the bushings that the manufacturer produce for the ends.
Thanks a lot for this video. Helped me a lot in implementing the same thing on an Indian wiring.
Sunil TG Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
Wow man you did a great job with this video. I need to look into corner pieces but they are the exact opposite of what you are using, it would be an outside corner i hope they sell them
Thanks. They make the elbow you're looking for...good luck with your project.
Good video, but why did you strip the outer sheath from the romex? Thank you.
Nice job! Good info. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the helpful intro to wiremold surface mount wiring. I'd use 20 A outlets (have the horizontal tang on the neutral) vs 15 A since you're using AWG 12 and are likely protecting the circuit with a 20 A breaker. Per code everything in the circuit needs to be rated for whatever size breaker you're using.
Thanks for the comment but that’s not the code. You’re permitted to use 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit. All that means is you can’t use 20 amp appliances on this circuit since the plugs won’t fit. I’ve actually never had any tool or appliance with a 20 amp plug
Cool that! 😎 Great video, thank you!
Nice clean job, but why did you strip the outer casing of the 12/2 wiring, that would have ensured not cutting in to any of the other wires?
I used THHN copper wire to run in the wiremold, not Romex. It's usually not good practice (and against code in some areas) to run Romex inside conduit or wiremold. Thanks for watching!
zimsjeep Thanks for THAT little tip right there!
Good to know. You should edit that in the video.
The green wire ground must be connected at every outlet and switch. The explanation was a little vague on this topic. You cannot use the metal frame work as the source of ground though it does need to be grounded as shown in this video. At the first box with power, pigtail the green wires, one to the metal frame and one wire to the outlets and the third to the next box in line. Another is drywall screws are for drywall hanging, not for electrical work. It also did not show the bushings are boxed in the "accessory" pack to protect the wires at the end of the raceway. When you do need to cut the raceway, use a file to smooth the edges and use 502 or 702 bushings.
Nice install I just used EMT in my garage looks very nice imo just take your time bending it. Seems a little more sturdier than the wire mould stuff but I wouldn't know I haven't used wire mould ever
EMT is good but many don't have the skills necessary to bend it correctly.
zimsjeep that's true I guess bending EMT is a big part of my job so I've gotten decent at it
If you use EMT and don’t have a bending tool you can always use connector fittings for 90’s and joining. More expensive but very simple.
Very informative, and the video was nicely executed. Thanks.
Thanks a lot for the kind words!
Very informative. What kind of wire did you use?
Excellent demonstration. Thank you.
Forgot to mention the bushings on the ends of track that protect your wire from sharp metal edges. I use a round file do do that.
Took me about 10 seconds of watching this to realize that this guy is an electrician and not some homeowner wannabe electrician.
Fantastic work. You really know what you are doing, in the installation of the product as well as in the video presentation. Besides that, you have the gift of teaching. Question: Does the Wiremold 700 series include a 45 degree outside angle? I can't seem to find it.
Yes. I’ve used them in the past. They do exist. Thank you for the compliments!!
You did an excellent job.Thank you for the demonstration!
He forgot to mention that you can buy bushings to place on each side of the track after cutting so won’t have to worry about damaging your wires on the sharp edges. If it’s a first time DIY project adding bushing might make you less likely to damage the wires. But this is a good video.
This has been mentioned a few times in the comments, yes you can add bushings. I install this stuff regularly in commercial buildings and don’t use them, but as you mentioned first time installs might find them beneficial. Thanks for the comment.
Nice job. Very helpful, thanks! I have a question: it looks like your inside corner overlaps the rail a bit, and yet there is enough of a lip for it to snap onto the rail, is this correct?
You attached the ground wire to the metal plate. I'm assuming you also attached the ground wire to each outlet and the green wire to the plate or one of the outlets? I'm assuming plate.
Ground wire attached to back plate and outlets at all j boxes. Overkill but doesn't take much longer to bond everything together. Thanks for watching
The correct way to connect multiple grounds in a box is to attach a separate ground wire to each device (receptacle, switch etc) AND the box, then wire nut them all together. That way, if a ground separates from any device all the other grounds will still be intact.
The insulating bushings are REQUIRED by the NEC (in section 342.46). Yes, I am an apprenticed Electrician.
Maybe you could add the use of a plugin circuit tester to check that the correct circuit breaker is turned off.
Then the tester could also test the new circuit for proper polarity and grounding.
Just an extra safety check :)
Jeani Martel Yes, cant hurt. I have all my circuits marked in my house. I also used a voltage sniffer off camera to double check.
I want to add a few outlets in attached garage on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Is wire mold setup used here meets code for garage setup?
It would have been helpful if you would have shown the wire being pushed through the corner piece which can be tricky for some people. It's little things like that that your average guy has problems with. Other than that, good video.
Good video but you didn't take the time to show how the duplex is connected to wires with pigtails and you didn't show how the duplex is fastened to the starter box. These extra shots will help the DIY novice.
Ok next time
Joe, I just scanned thru all the comments looking for the same issue. THANKS
Nice video.. just one more thing to note to the watchers out there.. this 20amp circuit is in a garage.. it should be GFCI protected.. and file your ends.. and use a bushing as not to run into the potential of a short from scraping wires.. other than that.. very informative.
Thanks for the comment and for watching. My garage is my workshop - this circuit is dedicated for power tools. Power tools/motors and gfci's generally don't like each other. The high amperage draw at startup can lead to nuisance trips. The convenience outlet on the other side of the garage that would be used for outside purposes is gfci protected. Thanks again for watching.
Most GFCI's today do not have that problem.. the earlier versions did.. code specifically states GFCI Protection in a garage.
I do know what you're saying thou.. example being.. a freezer in a garage.. don't want that food ( could be in the hundreds of dollars going to waste when you're away). Have a good one.
A 4' level could also be used to get the Wiremold straight from box to box instead of making a mark with the WM in place.
Just a question. Why are you not using a GFI plug in a place where you apparently be using heavy equipment. Are does the electrical code in your area not require it.
Well hell, That took me like 10 mins to knock out the middle metal plate knockout. Great video! Fyi you have to add 3/8" to each end of measurement and also clean up your cut ends and there is also bushings that go into the ends of cut track.
Haha, yup. With the magic of video editing, I made it look easy but I believe it took me the same to knock that plate out. Hope the project turned out good!
THANK YOU BROTHER 😉👍🏾
You’re welcome!!
Awesome job 👍🏽
Great video.. I hate to be this guy but the grounds should all be spliced at the outlet and then pigtailed off to the grounding screw on the wire mold and the ground at the outlet.
Zim, thanks for the videos, I am a subscriber. Hopefully you still get reply notices.
A question:
I have a freezer in the back of my garage.
I have two outlets in the garage, one in the ceiling (unswitched) for the door opener and one GFI near the door.
I want to power the freezer with a separate feed from a origination point with it's own GFI,
because I don't want to chance a trip from a power tool in the daisy chain.
(If it trips and it goes unnoticed, the contents of the freezer will be toast)
Should I just run a separate wire mold and feed for this purpose..?
Thanks in advance for your expertise and reply.
RJ
I would run a separate feed as you described, not worth chancing overloading the circuit or nuisance trips. Thanks for being a sub and the kind words!
@@fixitwithzim Thank you..!
Excellent video.. Thanks
Thank you!!
It’s look good but where can i find all that stuff?
EDGE IS ShardHARP! Really! Don't forget to use a standard hand file to de-ber the inside of the track when you saw to fit. INSTALL the bushings from the accessory pack to protect the writing from getting "skinned." It's in the accessory kit, please use it to protect your work. Stay safe😝
really good video it'll help to my girlfriend a lot, but why if we use plastic molds instead of the metal?.
great video btw, keep it up
Check to see if the plastic is rated for line voltage. I use the plastic stuff a lot for low voltage stuff at work...always found the boxes to be flimsy.
Great video! I need to do this exact same thing. May I ask what the part numbers were for everything? Or at least where you purchased them all at?
Keith Ledbetter I don't have the part numbers. Everything was purchased at Home Depot in the electrical department. Good luck with your project.
Platt Electric has more than Home Depot.
Great explanation! Thank you!
What about the grounds I seen you attached the one but I seen other videos that the are attaching a lot of ground together please explain if you can I would appreciate it thank you
Yes, pigtail all your ground wires together.
@@fixitwithzim thank you
very good and well explained helpfull source of info.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Can I use this method for installing a 240v outlet. I need one for a dryer but dont feel like taking down the wall
Yes!
Would wiremold work for a 240v 6/50 plug receptacle with either 6/2 or 6/3 wire feeding it?
Will the track accommodate the PVC insulation and a nylon, color coded jacket wire?
Thank you!... This helped me a lot!.
You’re welcome, glad the video helped you!
zimsjeep Great video! Thinking about putting a freezer in my garage. The available outlet is just out of reach, so I was going to add another outlet from that point close to where the freezer will sit. Any advice/suggestions? I don’t see any gfci outlets in garage.
Can you clarify one thing...is the original outlet a 15amp or 20amp circuit? If it is 15amp circuit, can you run a 20amp circuit from it? Should a 20amp outlet have a "T" slot on one of the slot?
yes 20amp outlets have a t slot aswell as TRl logo
NO
Very nice work .
+sergio garcia Thank you
quick question. can this be used outdoors as well?
No, this system is rated for indoor use in dry areas.
It was great and very informative till the wire up. Here is the box and bam it was over.
The wiring is very easy. Check out my other videos. I have lots of electrical content on wiring basics.
I went to Lowes to get my supplies to do the job & I wasn't sure to get the 2 gang boxes that were 1 3/8" deep or 1 3/4". The 1 3/4" are $5.00 more & I needed 5 boxes for my job. What did you use?
Frank Desantis when I originally made the video, I believe I used the smaller boxes. I’ve since added on to the original setup and used the larger boxes which give you more room to work. If you don’t mind the look of the larger box, I recommend you use them.
Is it possible to run a gfci in that circuit? Maybe set it up so the other receptacles trip too?
Yes, install the gfci in the first box and connect everything downstream to the load side
@@fixitwithzim That’s what I was thinking in my head but wasn’t sure, thanks for confirming.
zimsjeep can this be used to install a over light or ceiling fan kit in a dining room.
David Grocesley Yes, just make sure you secure the box to framing in the ceiling because of the weight of the fixture. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
zimsjeep Thank you Sir, your video was very helpful and appreciated.
How do you know which wires are coming in and which ones are going out ? Or does it matter as long as the wires match ?
Gil... It's been a year since you asked. So I don't know if anyone answered your question.
An easy way to find the feed wires: Kill the power. Remove the wires from your device. Separate the pairs from each other.
Wire nut each wire individually. Turn the power on. Using a non-contact voltage tester (very handy, cheap device), touch each of the wires until the tester glows.
If you don't have a tester, kill the power & you'll have to reconnect one set of wires back onto the device. Turn the power back on. If the device works, you know it's
the correct set (if you've reattached it correctly).
Most times, you can see the pairs by looking to where they enter the box. They'll be in the same jacket.
If there's no jacket visible, NEVER assume that wires will match (depending on their color). You never know how the last guy ran the wires.
But if there's no jacket to help you, kill the power & separate the wires. Then wire nut each wire. Turn the power on & test.
You don’t need to ground the box?
Nice clean job !
gilbert ramirez thanks!
Great video. Why did you feed the 12gau Romex into the raceway without the protective jacket? Do you have to remove the jacket to get 12gau romex to fit in this size raceway?
Audito Canarsie Thanks, that wasn't romex that I used. It's spooled thhn cable. It's generally considered bad practice and against code in some areas to use Romex in conduit and raceway systems. Hope this helps.
THAT IS why you install a bushing to keep the wire from being skinned by the sharp edges.
Did you ever try leaving the insulation on before. More difficult to pass it threw maybe?
Raymundo perez I used THHN individual stranded wire, not romex. It's not considered good practice to install romex in conduit or raceway.