Overhauling the Lister D Crankshaft
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- Опубліковано 3 кві 2016
- This video looks at overhauling the worn out crankshaft assembly from a 1939 Spec 23 Lister D type. The last part of the video is a brief look at the connecting rod bearings.
The crank bearings on this engine were rumbling and plenty of wear could be felt by lifting the crankshaft. Worn Lister D's typically rumble, oil and grease often having congealed in the crank bearing housing; stopping fresh oil from getting where it needs to.
In this video, the work is carried out using only hand tools - a press would be a great advantage but crankshaft overhaul can be done successfully without one.
The main crank bearings are RLS12 and RLS14. The connecting rod bearings and crank sleeve were purchased from Stationary Engine Parts, they proved very satisfactory in every way.
I hope the video is useful to someone, thanks for looking.
Excellent guide in fitting the bearings thanks for showing us
I purchased one of these 18 years ago from a classic car show at weston park. I paid £60 and got it loaded into the back of my 3 month old company golf GTI !!! Yep, it leaked!!! It ran very well but was in original unrestored condition. I got it home, my wife just looked confused and blank and uttered one word... "why?" we never mentioned it again! I ran it regularly for 8 months or so then decided to restore it. Head and water chamber, tank etc came off then I started working for myself and it sat there for a good 2 years. I then stored it at a friends house who had more workshop room than I and there it has been ever since. Last month he said he needed the space to extend so the old Lister D is coming home and I look forward to being re united with it again and completing the restoration. The only part here at the moment is the ID plate. As an old man now of 48 and semi retired I fully intend to put my all into the restoration. Should anyone (who has sod all else to do or as my wife says "is as sad as me") wishes to to read a blog and see pics/videos please let me know. Due to start July time. And to all who have a stationary engine, you are not weird... you are just misunderstood
My dad always used to say (he was a fitter in the RAF) that a 'loose fit' in good old British engineering terms required a 3lb hammer to shift it, an 'interference fit ' a 7lb hammer, and a 'tight fit' a 14lb sledgehammer ;) You shifting those bearings reminded me of that and made me smile!
Had full time job rebuilding Listers and petters, I never seen anything this old. They're beautiful.
Cleared a lot of grey areas on bearing removal and fitting. Inspired me to restore my Lister D. Thanks Phil.
Can I say what a great video. I got 5 Lister D type to rebuild and this is a great help thank you keep up the great work
Thanks Phil very informative video.
Excellent video, I'm about to do this job and it'll be much easier having seen it demonstrated.
Just done my 1927 d type this was a great help. My engine did not have the oil ring grub screw so that must have been a later addition
Thans for this film!
Hello. I like your videos and the how meticulous you are with your work. I repair plant machinery and lorries and I find it really handy to use a old deep fat fryer for cooking chips in for heating up parts for interference fitting. I just use standard cooking oil and it is very affective.
A good job mate
Nice vid. I have just done this work myself. And would suggest a slightly different approach. Warm up the crank bearing carrier and press both bearings into the carrier while it is all still warm rest it on top of vice or table with a hole big enough for crank shaft to go through add a bit more heat to the inner races then just drop the crank shaft through both berrings at the same time . For me it just fell straight through. And into position. The center casting was just too warm to touch bear hand but fine with gloves. This may help others. You could always cool the crank in freezer. If you are worried it won’t fit. Through. But for me worked at room temp
Wonderful video, thank you for all of the useful info, is the piston cast iron? thanks again.
Strange how many watch and don't bother to Like, keep up the Good work
still trying to work out where that goes on a land rover three... oh in the back ...cheers ..( just jesting )
Suggest you get a sharp file. The one you have sounds dull.
Please put a block over the bearing and use a press to seat it. NEVER hit a bearing with a steel hammer. Use one made of brass or lead.
oil dipper wrong way?
What was the mistake? Ok I'm dumb haha