Felt for you, using the Ir. Think I’d use it as a hot plate for keeping your Chinese warm when dining in the garden. Remote gas burner every time. When I saw you rubbing the mouldings down, I thought of the times I’d done that and run a splinter up your nail..ouch! Good review agree with all you said. Well done Phil.
i dont think anything comes close when it comes to detailed work, you need a good torch or gun to heat areas that include moldings its pinpoint areas the IR would fail. flat parts then yeah even bigger amounts are removed in 1 pass but not items that have tight areas like moldings.
400⁰ is about 100-200 degrees less that an electric heat gun... woefully underpowered. I bet it would be a lot slower. Gas is best as long as you dont plan to varnish the surface after as there's no risk of igniting nearby surfaces Design flaw...it needs pins or metal legs at either end so it can be kept off the surface without having to hold it
Hi Phill, The big advantage to this type of paint removal system, is that it doesn't vaporize lead. The temperature it reaches is sufficient to soften paint and release it from the substrate, but not enough to melt lead. Something to think about if working in much older properties without sufficient ventilation. Also, if the stripped surface is to be polished not painted, this system shouldn't scorch wood, if used correctly, resulting in less making good.
Can't say I've stripped a lead window before. The time to strip with the IR was painfully slow. If something was wanting to be stripped to the bare wood for a wood finish look, I think there's better options than this... Liquid paint remover, PeelAway would be a lot quicker and cleaner don't you think?
Just receive mine today. 100 year old door with no joke, what feels like 100 years of paint. Oh and I'm dealing with lead paint.I tried some basic chemical stripper. Expensive, time consuming and very poor results. Tried the IR for 20min this afternoon outside in the cold. It worked for me. It was very slow and is going to be time consuming for sure. But I'm not a pro, and getting paid by the hour so I totally get it. I think for lead scenarios and for homeowners it way less money than other IR machines so it has it's place.
Only Dumond makes a product that works on massive layers of paint containing lead. Very expensive. I bought a REAL IR tool- the speedheater. Works great for me- and no worries about lead dust or vaporized lead fumes. I notice this guy uses a cheap knock off IR tool, doesn't even bother using it properly- while advocating using fire to remove paint, lolol. How many houses will be burnt down because of this scam video.
Another top tip i have fetool rts sander and even when the paper is spent on the sander its great for rubbing down its tuff as hell you try and tare it (u need scissors)
These ones are no where near as efficient as the Speedheaters Phil. I use the Speedheater 1100 which as its name suggests has a power output of 1100 watts, therefore making it more powerful and effective. Even with the 1100 or its little brother The Cobra, it's still not as quick as a raw flame I agree, But they are much safer, they heat to around 400 - 600 degrees where a flame is around 1000 to soften the paint. At that temperature it will release lead gasses from old paint which is very harmful. The Speedheaters operating at a lower temperature don't release that gas, they also have less chance of scorching and breaking glass even on glazing bars. On the Health & Safety element, a lot of authorities and organisations will not permit naked flame burning on their buildings, especially on historical ones. Another point to add is that most insurance companies will not allow tradesmen or women or any other specific gender type to use naked flame in their course of work unless specifically requested, so just be careful out there people, and check your public liability insurance cover if you use flame!
I'm just getting started on a similar project. How do you feel about wearing an uncomfortable and cumbersome dust mask when doing this kind of work? Thanks for your video!
I have baseboards that either the previous owner/quick renovator put latex paint over oil or oil over latex so every baseboard/trim and interior door is peeling albeit inconsistently. Would this be a good idea for that? I wonder if it’s not better and more efficient to just replace all the damn baseboards and trim.
you do have to think of the time implication and how much work you'll be doing to get them right. Depends how easy it is to get them removed and swapped.
I normally use solvent paint stripper that doesn't cleaning off afterwards bloody expensive but quicker especially for sashes etc for large area's blow lamp sometimes. heat guns don't work very on acrylics i found
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator The water based ones are a nightmare ive never had any problems with not rubbing down with turps the one i use says it leaves no trace residue on tin
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator when doing the door I mean. It's a pet hate when I see someone stripping wall paper.amd not cleaning the area of all wallpaper, & clean the area as they go. And they leaves bits of paper everywhere on the wall. 😂
I noticed you used a regular scraper being used in the forward direction when testing the ir stripper versus a back dragging scraper when testing the gas bottle stripper. It would have been nice to see both using the drag scraper. I appreciate you taking the time to show your technique as I learned alot! Thank you.
the 'back drapping' scraper, has a blade that only works one way... but rest assured the IR paint remover isn't very good. I had it out last week to remove some paint off DAVE the door again... it was still painful, it doesn't get enough heat quick enough on the surface. you'd be better with a decent electric heat gun.
I’d be interested to see how you use the tool on day two of owning it. Seems there is a bit of a learning curve. I imagine things went faster after some experience. If not im thinking I’ll stick to the heat gun.
Wood please Phil. I work with Sash & Case and would be interested in seeing the paint process as I sometimes have to take the paint right back to bare timber
Felt for you, using the Ir. Think I’d use it as a hot plate for keeping your Chinese warm when dining in the garden. Remote gas burner every time. When I saw you rubbing the mouldings down, I thought of the times I’d done that and run a splinter up your nail..ouch!
Good review agree with all you said.
Well done Phil.
i think i'll stick to me heat gun and me linbide flat and edging scrapers phil.
Got more patience than me Phil,,,,heat gun better….🙀🙀🙀🙀🙀🙀
i dont think anything comes close when it comes to detailed work, you need a good torch or gun to heat areas that include moldings its pinpoint areas the IR would fail. flat parts then yeah even bigger amounts are removed in 1 pass but not items that have tight areas like moldings.
400⁰ is about 100-200 degrees less that an electric heat gun... woefully underpowered.
I bet it would be a lot slower.
Gas is best as long as you dont plan to varnish the surface after as there's no risk of igniting nearby surfaces
Design flaw...it needs pins or metal legs at either end so it can be kept off the surface without having to hold it
Some standoffs on the ends of the device to keep it above the surface would be awesome for v2.0
Smaller head, hotter and not so heavy
Hi Phill, The big advantage to this type of paint removal system, is that it doesn't vaporize lead. The temperature it reaches is sufficient to soften paint and release it from the substrate, but not enough to melt lead. Something to think about if working in much older properties without sufficient ventilation. Also, if the stripped surface is to be polished not painted, this system shouldn't scorch wood, if used correctly, resulting in less making good.
Can't say I've stripped a lead window before.
The time to strip with the IR was painfully slow. If something was wanting to be stripped to the bare wood for a wood finish look, I think there's better options than this... Liquid paint remover, PeelAway would be a lot quicker and cleaner don't you think?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Yes. I think the old methylene chloride strippers were good, but difficult to get now.
Just receive mine today. 100 year old door with no joke, what feels like 100 years of paint. Oh and I'm dealing with lead paint.I tried some basic chemical stripper. Expensive, time consuming and very poor results. Tried the IR for 20min this afternoon outside in the cold. It worked for me. It was very slow and is going to be time consuming for sure. But I'm not a pro, and getting paid by the hour so I totally get it. I think for lead scenarios and for homeowners it way less money than other IR machines so it has it's place.
Only Dumond makes a product that works on massive layers of paint containing lead. Very expensive. I bought a REAL IR tool- the speedheater. Works great for me- and no worries about lead dust or vaporized lead fumes. I notice this guy uses a cheap knock off IR tool, doesn't even bother using it properly- while advocating using fire to remove paint, lolol. How many houses will be burnt down because of this scam video.
Its just a gimmick stick with a heat gun at least you can se what your doing
Be there all day fancy having a dozen of them doors to do ,get the industrial painter stripper on it
Slow and cumbersome. It’s an easy pass for me.
Phil. Burning off they were the days..No way not anymore. Cant wait for everything to be U.P.V.C. and superdec it. 😅
Prefer my old heat gun quick light easy to handle no naked flame virtually no scorching..
Good, but too slow. Set the Bosch blow dryer to 650deg Celsius and off you go, no stopping.
who the hell invented this thing anyway it needs to be same size as a heat gun bugger lumping that thing up a ladder like pulling half a rad around
Another top tip i have fetool rts sander and even when the paper is spent on the sander its great for rubbing down its tuff as hell you try and tare it (u need scissors)
like the flame better Phil. Much cooler . I'll add on to my kit. 👍👍👍
These ones are no where near as efficient as the Speedheaters Phil. I use the Speedheater 1100 which as its name suggests has a power output of 1100 watts, therefore making it more powerful and effective. Even with the 1100 or its little brother The Cobra, it's still not as quick as a raw flame I agree, But they are much safer, they heat to around 400 - 600 degrees where a flame is around 1000 to soften the paint. At that temperature it will release lead gasses from old paint which is very harmful. The Speedheaters operating at a lower temperature don't release that gas, they also have less chance of scorching and breaking glass even on glazing bars. On the Health & Safety element, a lot of authorities and organisations will not permit naked flame burning on their buildings, especially on historical ones. Another point to add is that most insurance companies will not allow tradesmen or women or any other specific gender type to use naked flame in their course of work unless specifically requested, so just be careful out there people, and check your public liability insurance cover if you use flame!
400w just isn't enough, it was rubbish
Phil have u used the superdec paint yet?,dunno if its just my luck but ruined me good arroworthy,like the brush killer,left mine with a waxy texture
I've not used it for years. Bedec BarnPaint is the go to for stuff like that now.
I'm just getting started on a similar project. How do you feel about wearing an uncomfortable and cumbersome dust mask when doing this kind of work? Thanks for your video!
I'd probably feel uncomfortable and a bit cumbersome :)
😂
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
That’s a large forehead Phil ……paint it 👌
What do pro's tend to use for removong the modern water based satins etc ?
1st time iver seen this tool but after watching that defo to be avoided lol
hot heat gun remover.
Peel away ! You said it ,”time is money “
I have baseboards that either the previous owner/quick renovator put latex paint over oil or oil over latex so every baseboard/trim and interior door is peeling albeit inconsistently.
Would this be a good idea for that? I wonder if it’s not better and more efficient to just replace all the damn baseboards and trim.
you do have to think of the time implication and how much work you'll be doing to get them right. Depends how easy it is to get them removed and swapped.
I think it would struggle in America as its all water based
Wouldn't a new door be cheaper
In most cases yes....but there's sometimes situationsbwhen a door cant be replaced
Thanks for the video. I’ve been curious about this tool.
there's better out there but will cost more.
I normally use solvent paint stripper that doesn't cleaning off afterwards bloody expensive but quicker especially for sashes etc for large area's blow lamp sometimes. heat guns don't work very on acrylics i found
solvent liquid paint remover needs neutralising with Turps, did you know that?
Water based.. neutralise with cold water.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator The water based ones are a nightmare ive never had any problems with not rubbing down with turps the one i use says it leaves no trace residue on tin
@@jackwardley3626 what make do you use?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator paramose thin and ultra max
gas burner every time
That gas gun blower is a awesome bir of kit. Good to see your cleaning as you.
Cleaning? We have someone who does that every two weeks for us lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator when doing the door I mean. It's a pet hate when I see someone stripping wall paper.amd not cleaning the area of all wallpaper, & clean the area as they go. And they leaves bits of paper everywhere on the wall. 😂
I noticed you used a regular scraper being used in the forward direction when testing the ir stripper versus a back dragging scraper when testing the gas bottle stripper. It would have been nice to see both using the drag scraper. I appreciate you taking the time to show your technique as I learned alot! Thank you.
the 'back drapping' scraper, has a blade that only works one way... but rest assured the IR paint remover isn't very good. I had it out last week to remove some paint off DAVE the door again... it was still painful, it doesn't get enough heat quick enough on the surface. you'd be better with a decent electric heat gun.
I’d be interested to see how you use the tool on day two of owning it. Seems there is a bit of a learning curve. I imagine things went faster after some experience. If not im thinking I’ll stick to the heat gun.
Nope. It's not good
About time you throw those rounded off scrapers in the bin, and bought some new ones!
As long as you keep them sharp they're ideal
Beautiful bit of kit 🎉🎉🎉 i bought a cobra speedheat ❤❤ittt
What's the heat Wattage like with that, plus a smaller head.
Been using this for 2 years, quality bit of kit
hard work :(
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator all about technique and safer than naked flame
@@drdecorator9532 it's not hot enough, slow and too big to control.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator it’s plenty hot enough 😂
I don't think they will be selling many of those
What a crap tool
Hard work with that mate.😮
Thank you.
Please do a video of painting exterior windows ! Thanks
Great suggestion! wood or uPVC
Wood please Phil. I work with Sash & Case and would be interested in seeing the paint process as I sometimes have to take the paint right back to bare timber
Just a different heat gun?
Yeah... A not very good one
Great idea but far to slow really mate
Noted!
Handy on a day work job though😏
The amount of time and energy spent doing this.... might as well buy a new door!
Hi bud.
Very brave with the dust sheet under the door on the floor.
Cool video bud.....old school always the best 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Munro Decorators.
Classic. better than strippings on my gravel drive ;) lol