Followed your instructions completely, all done, car running smooth, no more noise, juz replaced the whole assembly, didn't bother with Machine shop, Thank you! Saved some cash, great day to you!
Very, very good example of a real-world scenario. Your video was much more straightforward than another that I saw. Congratulations on job well done!!!
Ya and that's not the way to take the caliper off either. The 2and set of bolt he did was the first and only set to remove the whole thing. And for the bottom ball joint there are 3 bolts on the control arm that are easier to remove and smarter and you wont risk messing up any ball joints
I clicked on your video just to see how you remove the bearing, and then you go to a machine shop and pay them to do it. The best part is when you tell me not to try it at home. At home where I have a milling machine, lathe scrap round stock steel to make drivers,ect. A a hydraulic press. So much for your help!!
Always a good idea to use a rubber mallet when you're doing stuff like this. Safer for your threads and the metal in general. Obviously it's not ALWAYS an issue- but things can definitely happen.
I learned that the hard way a few days ago. lmao. the slightly bent metal cost me a week's worth of waiting for parts because the threads got fucked on my ball joint.
Appreciate this effort was done without a lift that most of the world is without And boat shoes🤘 Too many kids at shopping center service centers just love playing with impact guns while looking at their phone with the other hand Worn sockets routinely screw up nice wheel lugs or slip off a ding rimes. Or over tighten many nuts as suggested here
The shop i used to work at didn't have a press so they would use the old 2 hammer trick which i learned in school and so did the other guys i worked with did too which is where you stick the ball of the ball pein hammer on the bearing and hit it with another we never had any issue with it. But I don't want to do that on mine since the wheel stud is broken so i am doing both bearing and hub assemblies.
if you use the correct tools you don't have to hit the sides either. The proper tool for this is a tie rod fork or tie rod fork which slides in under the tie rod /ball joint you then hit the end of the fork and it safely separates with no damage I have both of these items and have been well used for this exact purpose.
Thanks Does the math work to replace bearing verses entire assembly ? Coat of bearing Coordination and transport to machine shop Leave assembly and return another day or wait for bearing install ? So a single person / single car needs alternate transport Cost of machine shop service Still a rust dirty assembly which I would clean prior to reinstall
I assume it is cheaper to just replace the bearing, but I have not actually checked the price of the whole assembly. On the other hand, if you could find the whole assembly on a car at a junk yard with a good bearing, that would probably save some time and money buying it used, but it would be a risk of putting on another worn bearing.
Jeff's Auto Do appreciate the commando right on the parking lot approach to the repair- very relatable to many or most No lift , no a/c natural light only , wind, gravel hot pavement etc
Would have preferred you showing the part where you took the old bearing out of the hub instead of clipping this part out even though you had the new one hydraulically pressed. Edit: unless it was hydraulically pressed directly into the hub
good job.....no need to remove the lower ball joint though. You can loosen and remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt on the bottom of the control arm and lift the knuckle out. You can see the tops of them at 6 min 23 seconds. Makes the job a little easier.
You should support the brake caliper with a bungee , instead of letting it hang by the brake line, unless you like replacing brake lines too... I don't.
You make this joke look so simple!quick qiestion to add,, In other videos people mentioned there is a bond that happens, and you need a hub puller for that. Did you run into that problem? What would you recommend using if you don't have a hub puller?
A press works great. Anyone that does their own car work should have one. I got mine at Harbor Freight for like $60. 10 years ago. I've done like 60 wheel bearings with it.
I noticed that as well, although being the car was on jackstands and, Jeff was using hand tools, it 'may' have been less hassle for him to separate the ball joint vs removing the three 17MM bolt/nuts underneath.
@@piercehawke8021 Yes its less of a hassle to do the ball joint. I took the same route. stupid thing I did though was hit it out with a hammer. ruined the threads and had to wait on another one to ship. other than that it went smoothly.
These cars have no camber adjustments unless you buy aftermarket cam bolts. Unless you turn out or in the tie rod end, it will be exactly the same when you go back together.
If the car drove and stopped perfectly straight beforehand with no alignment or tracking issues, install the worst front bearing first and drive the car for a day or 2 or 3. Correct any toe adjustment yourself with the tie rod adustment on that side only. Then, once you get the alignment absolutely dead-nuts perfect again (test by driving on highway and making a few hard stops), do the exact same for the other side. It's always a good idea to do both front bearings so you always know what side is outta whack and can adjust accordingly. If you notice even a slight alignment or tracking issue after you do both sides, then, if you care about your tires and stopping perfectly straight, you should probably go get an alignment done- second guessing where you stand with alignment is very hard to do without proper tools.
It takes a couple of hours to complete both front wheel bearings, plus the time waiting for the machine shop. But, it could go a lot faster with power tools.
Followed your instructions completely, all done, car running smooth, no more noise, juz replaced the whole assembly, didn't bother with Machine shop, Thank you! Saved some cash, great day to you!
Very, very good example of a real-world scenario. Your video was much more straightforward than another that I saw.
Congratulations on job well done!!!
Thank you!
This looks way easier than what the others were making it look thank you🙏🏾
Quick tip for everyone watching- never a good idea to leave brake calliper hanging by brake line!
Actually, it's a great idea- it thins the herd! :)
YES Because it wil ruin the hose
Ya and that's not the way to take the caliper off either. The 2and set of bolt he did was the first and only set to remove the whole thing. And for the bottom ball joint there are 3 bolts on the control arm that are easier to remove and smarter and you wont risk messing up any ball joints
Shut the fuckup Done it a bunch of times
Straight forward example. Really helped me a lot
My heart sank when he said “dont even think of trying to press this in yourself, their really tight”
Great reality home repair video thank you, I will try it on my Camry
I clicked on your video just to see how you remove the bearing, and then you go to a machine shop and pay them to do it. The best part is when you tell me not to try it at home. At home where I have a milling machine, lathe scrap round stock steel to make drivers,ect. A a hydraulic press. So much for your help!!
Always a good idea to use a rubber mallet when you're doing stuff like this. Safer for your threads and the metal in general. Obviously it's not ALWAYS an issue- but things can definitely happen.
I learned that the hard way a few days ago. lmao. the slightly bent metal cost me a week's worth of waiting for parts because the threads got fucked on my ball joint.
Appreciate this effort was done without a lift that most of the world is without
And boat shoes🤘
Too many kids at shopping center service centers just love playing with impact guns while looking at their phone with the other hand
Worn sockets routinely screw up nice wheel lugs or slip off a ding rimes. Or over tighten many nuts as suggested here
Backyard wrenching - getting it done in the sun!
Good video .. nice job
U make this look so easy. Good job.
Thank you!
The shop i used to work at didn't have a press so they would use the old 2 hammer trick which i learned in school and so did the other guys i worked with did too which is where you stick the ball of the ball pein hammer on the bearing and hit it with another we never had any issue with it. But I don't want to do that on mine since the wheel stud is broken so i am doing both bearing and hub assemblies.
Machine shop???? Castle nut on the ball joint instead of the 3 nuts and bolt??? I don't get it.
Why didn't you unbolt the lower ball joint from the control arm instead of taking the cotter pin and nut off? It's way easier.
if you use the correct tools you don't have to hit the sides either. The proper tool for this is a tie rod fork or tie rod fork which slides in under the tie rod /ball joint you then hit the end of the fork and it safely separates with no damage
I have both of these items and have been well used for this exact purpose.
Thank you!
"Uncle Jed, I finished working on your truck , and I put it back together but now what do you want me to do with all these extra parts?"
lmao I actually have an uncle jed lmao
Thank you bro great job
Thank you!
Thanks
Does the math work to replace bearing verses entire assembly ?
Coat of bearing
Coordination and transport to machine shop
Leave assembly and return another day or wait for bearing install ? So a single person / single car needs alternate transport
Cost of machine shop service
Still a rust dirty assembly which I would clean prior to reinstall
I assume it is cheaper to just replace the bearing, but I have not actually checked the price of the whole assembly. On the other hand, if you could find the whole assembly on a car at a junk yard with a good bearing, that would probably save some time and money buying it used, but it would be a risk of putting on another worn bearing.
Jeff's Auto
Do appreciate the commando right on the parking lot approach to the repair- very relatable to many or most
No lift , no a/c natural light only , wind, gravel hot pavement etc
I have same issue should I change both sides or just the one that is makeing noise ?.
I would only change the bad one. Half the work.
@@JeffsAuto thank u .
Cringe so hard with that brake caliber just hanging
Would have preferred you showing the part where you took the old bearing out of the hub instead of clipping this part out even though you had the new one hydraulically pressed.
Edit: unless it was hydraulically pressed directly into the hub
The old bearings had to be professionally pressed out at a machine shop.
@@JeffsAuto alright I appreciate it, had to hammer them out the hard way thank you 👍
good job.....no need to remove the lower ball joint though. You can loosen and remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt on the bottom of the control arm and lift the knuckle out. You can see the tops of them at 6 min 23 seconds. Makes the job a little easier.
You should support the brake caliper with a bungee , instead of letting it hang by the brake line, unless you like replacing brake lines too... I don't.
$80 shop press from Harbor Freight will press hub bearings in and out. useful for all sort of other things as well.
no need for a machine shop.
You make this joke look so simple!quick qiestion to add,,
In other videos people mentioned there is a bond that happens, and you need a hub puller for that.
Did you run into that problem?
What would you recommend using if you don't have a hub puller?
A press works great. Anyone that does their own car work should have one. I got mine at Harbor Freight for like $60. 10 years ago. I've done like 60 wheel bearings with it.
Heat and beat works, especially if its a steel knuckle. If its aluminum knuckle and steel hub I'll pray for you.
LOOKED GOOD
Wow why did you separate the lower ball joint?
I noticed that as well, although being the car was on jackstands and, Jeff was using hand tools, it 'may' have been less hassle for him to separate the ball joint vs removing the three 17MM bolt/nuts underneath.
Pierce Hawke it’s a mystery I guess since he doesn’t reply.
to remove the hub with wheel bearings
@@piercehawke8021 Yes its less of a hassle to do the ball joint. I took the same route. stupid thing I did though was hit it out with a hammer. ruined the threads and had to wait on another one to ship. other than that it went smoothly.
What’s the torque specs
Axle Nut Torque SPECIFICATIONS (source, internet) 217 Ft-lbs.
Its too bad you don't have a regular garage.. I mean i don't have one but you've got all the tools!!
Working on it. Permit in-hand, waiting for the weather to improve before we start.
Is it necessary to get a front end alignment after doing this?
In my opinion, only if you have new tires, or notice problem, then I would get an alignment.
Yes, you’ve definitely disturbed the alignment when taking the spindle off the strut.
These cars have no camber adjustments unless you buy aftermarket cam bolts. Unless you turn out or in the tie rod end, it will be exactly the same when you go back together.
They should try mark those crews and nuts to tighten they same way it was..
If the car drove and stopped perfectly straight beforehand with no alignment or tracking issues, install the worst front bearing first and drive the car for a day or 2 or 3. Correct any toe adjustment yourself with the tie rod adustment on that side only. Then, once you get the alignment absolutely dead-nuts perfect again (test by driving on highway and making a few hard stops), do the exact same for the other side. It's always a good idea to do both front bearings so you always know what side is outta whack and can adjust accordingly. If you notice even a slight alignment or tracking issue after you do both sides, then, if you care about your tires and stopping perfectly straight, you should probably go get an alignment done- second guessing where you stand with alignment is very hard to do without proper tools.
What's the torque spec for the axle nut?
you have to google it for the year and type of car, they vary.
200 -230 FP
as tight as possible
Tighten till it snaps, then back it off half a turn.
WHAT SIZE IS THE AXLE NUT?
yes its 30 rent from autozon for free
24
Brutal
Well said! This is a hard job.
This cost me yesterday 320$ labor and genuine part 😠😠😠
That's actually really good.. I just had a place quote me 360 in labor and then 100+ for the bearing and hub each! so total was like 600 something.
you tube its the mechanic now a days
How much time did you spend doing this?
It takes a couple of hours to complete both front wheel bearings, plus the time waiting for the machine shop. But, it could go a lot faster with power tools.