Your content is starting to get expensive for me (*inspiring). I recently aquired a Mac 128k and an Amiga 2000 to restore. Thanks for the quality content!
Be prepared for Varta battery damage. 90% of the A2000 have them because people didn't know they leak so they have been installed for the last 40 years. I also wanted an A2000 but somehow instead ended up with an a500+ in a big box case LOL.
It took me a similar amount of time to build mine, but you went much further! I only did the GBSControl, didn't do the clock generator or half those mods and yours looks much better for it! I can see some comments about using an RGB2HDMI, and indeed they're a great board and I've built a few of those. My personal reasons for using this instead in my EATX2000 is that I use a traditional RTG card (well, the modern GBAPII Picasso remake) which has VGA passthrough, so I can daisychain the GBS8220 into that and then into a monitor. HDMI will work better if you use a PiStorm or something as you can just use an HDMI 2-into-1 switch... it's just about working with what you have :) Great video though!
Thanks again for sending me the board I only wish I had done it sooner as the end result is a fantastic image. RGB2HDMI is the other obvious choice but I've already got a raspberry pi in there doing pistorm, not sure I could handle having 2 pi's in my Amiga. Plus it suits my setup with that monitor which has both DVI and VGA inputs so its easy to change between them. The other mods I did I do think are worth the little extra time they take, certainly the clock generator and the RGB level mod. I didn't see much difference with the additional bypass caps. There are further mods that can be done with a sync stripper and even an LCD to display some info like current resolution but I didn't see the point in those to be honest.
I built one last year I believe. I use it with my Commodore 128's RGBI Output and it works well. I might end up with some other devices I can use it with in the future though.
I would do the 75 ohm resistor mod and add the extra caps because i already have those on scrap VCR boards that i got free and its quick and easy to do. For me, the 8266 is not worth the cost and effort for the extra features (gimmics). I don't need fake scanlines. The 75 ohm resistor is mainly what makes the icons and text sharper.
It does more than scan lines. Could be wrong but out of the box I don’t think it converts 50-60hz so if your monitor doesn’t support 50 hz it’s helpful. The resizing is also good. The 8266 is pretty cheap (admittedly I did this pre COVID so perhaps it’s not now?)
I'd say its more about the stabilising the image rather than the gimmics like scanlines. Don't get me wrong though, the standard GBS with a few mods does do a decent job and those little issues it does have are not noticable in a fast moving game. For workbench or slower games though the slight flickering always annoyed me and GBScontrol certainly resolved that problem. I too am not a fan of scanlines. If you want that just use a CRT.
@@CRG What's worse is the crt scanlines are not that noticeable because the crt smooths them out. So, people are nostalgic for something that doesn't really exist.
I have an RGB to hdmi in my 500+ and agree it's fantastic. Maybe one day if they integrate that into the pistorm I'll go down that route. I just don't know if I could put 2 raspberry pis into this one machine 😂.
@@CRG I don't think it will ever be integrated in the pi-storm. I don't see were to get the I/O from on the pi. But yes sometimes it feels like the Amiga is slowly being assimilated, well as long as the original chipset is still on the bus, I'm fine with it ;-)
@@Voyager_2 I recall some conversation about trying to use the pi's CSI (camera) port for rgb2hdmi. That is going back at least a year though and I've heard nothing further.
Hi , thank you for the video . what about the scroll ? is it smooth ? can you test shadow of the beast game intro ? and how its scroll .. i would like to know ?
Una pregunta, la placa sin modificar ¿es buena opcion si no se quiere reescalar nada y solo se busca ajustar la imagen y pasar de entrelazado a progresivo sin reescalar?ya tengo reescalador con mcable y por ahora me apaño.Lo quiero usar solo para ps2 con hdmi.
Need to get a lot of things to be honest. I can usually get on ok with what I have but this time the iron was to big and caused a problem. Thanks for the tip though, I'll take a look at it.
I've seen another mod for these where you stick copper tape over the traces on the back running between the main IC and the ram, then scrape back some of the mask and solder it to the ground plane. This can reduce some artifacting but it seems that's not being an issue for you there. I can't remember where I saw that video, maybe Voultar, maybe not.
Yeah I've seen that before but it's not required with GBScontrol as that issue has been resolved in software. Probably still worth doing if you're just running the stock GBS though.
I don't have a V5.1 but have had a couple of GBS boards over the years and they have all worked fine. For the Amiga I had to use the video socket on the board and make a little cable rather than just hooking up to the VGA input so maybe try that?
@@CRGI'm not really seeing a desync. If you are unsure about it, try doing a clap or snap at the start and of each take. Be sure your project is set to the exact framerate you are shooting at, (progressive scan, 50.00hz?)
@@Nukle0n yeah I need to do something like that. With my current setup I'm recording video with the camera but the mic is straight to the PC recording in audacity. I usually just sync the two audio streams then delete the one from the camera but a clap or something like that might make for an easier sync point. My camera shoots at 60fps, the same at which the video is set.
@@CRG Might depend on your lights but i find in Europe you tend to get more flickering recording at 60hz vs 50hz, even with modern lights. But also a lot of phones and such don't even support 50hz recording, just an infuriatingly slow auto-shutter that doesn't seem to want to default to a shutter speed more suited for that.
Your content is starting to get expensive for me (*inspiring). I recently aquired a Mac 128k and an Amiga 2000 to restore.
Thanks for the quality content!
I can only apologise 😂
It is an expensive hobby but a 128K and A2000 restoration sound like great projects. Let me know how you get on with them.
Be prepared for Varta battery damage. 90% of the A2000 have them because people didn't know they leak so they have been installed for the last 40 years. I also wanted an A2000 but somehow instead ended up with an a500+ in a big box case LOL.
@@tspawn35 I appreciate the heads up. Maybe a new replacement motherboard is in my future as well.
It took me a similar amount of time to build mine, but you went much further! I only did the GBSControl, didn't do the clock generator or half those mods and yours looks much better for it!
I can see some comments about using an RGB2HDMI, and indeed they're a great board and I've built a few of those. My personal reasons for using this instead in my EATX2000 is that I use a traditional RTG card (well, the modern GBAPII Picasso remake) which has VGA passthrough, so I can daisychain the GBS8220 into that and then into a monitor. HDMI will work better if you use a PiStorm or something as you can just use an HDMI 2-into-1 switch... it's just about working with what you have :) Great video though!
Thanks again for sending me the board I only wish I had done it sooner as the end result is a fantastic image. RGB2HDMI is the other obvious choice but I've already got a raspberry pi in there doing pistorm, not sure I could handle having 2 pi's in my Amiga. Plus it suits my setup with that monitor which has both DVI and VGA inputs so its easy to change between them.
The other mods I did I do think are worth the little extra time they take, certainly the clock generator and the RGB level mod. I didn't see much difference with the additional bypass caps. There are further mods that can be done with a sync stripper and even an LCD to display some info like current resolution but I didn't see the point in those to be honest.
such a cool machine this is turning into.
I am putting up a massive amount of Amiga stuff on ebay today. Video toaster, 2000 HD with turbo, editing decks and boxes of software and manuals
I built one last year I believe. I use it with my Commodore 128's RGBI Output and it works well. I might end up with some other devices I can use it with in the future though.
Like always the best!
I think it would be better that those smaller bypass caps be soldered where the wiki says as they need to be close to the pin they feed.
I would do the 75 ohm resistor mod and add the extra caps because i already have those on scrap VCR boards that i got free and its quick and easy to do. For me, the 8266 is not worth the cost and effort for the extra features (gimmics). I don't need fake scanlines. The 75 ohm resistor is mainly what makes the icons and text sharper.
It does more than scan lines. Could be wrong but out of the box I don’t think it converts 50-60hz so if your monitor doesn’t support 50 hz it’s helpful. The resizing is also good. The 8266 is pretty cheap (admittedly I did this pre COVID so perhaps it’s not now?)
I'd say its more about the stabilising the image rather than the gimmics like scanlines. Don't get me wrong though, the standard GBS with a few mods does do a decent job and those little issues it does have are not noticable in a fast moving game. For workbench or slower games though the slight flickering always annoyed me and GBScontrol certainly resolved that problem. I too am not a fan of scanlines. If you want that just use a CRT.
@@CRG What's worse is the crt scanlines are not that noticeable because the crt smooths them out. So, people are nostalgic for something that doesn't really exist.
An interesting idea. I wonder how it stacks up to the Raspberry Pi Zero RGB to HDMI thing, which you can also fit in a slot like that.
I have a RGB2HDMI 2K in my A2000 and its just pixel perfect. Its so sharp it's hard to believe that it's not emulated.
@@Voyager_2 I agree, for the Amiga RGB2HDMI is perfect.
I have an RGB to hdmi in my 500+ and agree it's fantastic. Maybe one day if they integrate that into the pistorm I'll go down that route. I just don't know if I could put 2 raspberry pis into this one machine 😂.
@@CRG I don't think it will ever be integrated in the pi-storm. I don't see were to get the I/O from on the pi. But yes sometimes it feels like the Amiga is slowly being assimilated, well as long as the original chipset is still on the bus, I'm fine with it ;-)
@@Voyager_2 I recall some conversation about trying to use the pi's CSI (camera) port for rgb2hdmi. That is going back at least a year though and I've heard nothing further.
Having both ossc and gbscontrol (aliexpress) gbs control is easier to setup and picture seems better
Thanks for letting me know.
You could maybe try the SoG mod but its quite tedious.
Are you sure you didnt solder C11 wrong way around. Shouldn't negative go to the ground?
Hi , thank you for the video . what about the scroll ? is it smooth ? can you test shadow of the beast game intro ? and how its scroll .. i would like to know ?
Una pregunta, la placa sin modificar ¿es buena opcion si no se quiere reescalar nada y solo se busca ajustar la imagen y pasar de entrelazado a progresivo sin reescalar?ya tengo reescalador con mcable y por ahora me apaño.Lo quiero usar solo para ps2 con hdmi.
You need to get a smaller solder iron. Search for "QIANLI Mini Solder nano electric soldering iron pen" if you want one ...
Need to get a lot of things to be honest. I can usually get on ok with what I have but this time the iron was to big and caused a problem. Thanks for the tip though, I'll take a look at it.
I've seen another mod for these where you stick copper tape over the traces on the back running between the main IC and the ram, then scrape back some of the mask and solder it to the ground plane. This can reduce some artifacting but it seems that's not being an issue for you there. I can't remember where I saw that video, maybe Voultar, maybe not.
RMC, Neil had a video on that
@@craignadineguymer5714 I found the one I was thinking of, it's GadgetUK164. But yeah, it looks like Neil did a video on that as well.
Yeah I've seen that before but it's not required with GBScontrol as that issue has been resolved in software. Probably still worth doing if you're just running the stock GBS though.
I've had an GBS8200 (v 5.1) for years, but have not got it to work with anything.
Except Productivity/VGA mode, which is pointless
I don't have a V5.1 but have had a couple of GBS boards over the years and they have all worked fine. For the Amiga I had to use the video socket on the board and make a little cable rather than just hooking up to the VGA input so maybe try that?
What issue? I've had problems on two v4 boards but they needed the SoG mods which is difficult to do.
Dude.. whats the name of the game/demo running at the end there?? Cheers
Road Avenger. The Amiga port was released by pixelglass games a few years ago for free. pixelglass.org/#roadavenger
@@CRG Legend. Thanks heaps.
Talking about sync issues, fyi the last few minutes if the video were out of sync between your voice and your lips 😅
Please tell me you're not serious. I've had nothing but problems with this lately but I thought I got it sorted.
@@CRGI'm not really seeing a desync. If you are unsure about it, try doing a clap or snap at the start and of each take. Be sure your project is set to the exact framerate you are shooting at, (progressive scan, 50.00hz?)
@@Nukle0n yeah I need to do something like that. With my current setup I'm recording video with the camera but the mic is straight to the PC recording in audacity. I usually just sync the two audio streams then delete the one from the camera but a clap or something like that might make for an easier sync point. My camera shoots at 60fps, the same at which the video is set.
@@CRG Might depend on your lights but i find in Europe you tend to get more flickering recording at 60hz vs 50hz, even with modern lights. But also a lot of phones and such don't even support 50hz recording, just an infuriatingly slow auto-shutter that doesn't seem to want to default to a shutter speed more suited for that.