Looks like it was an oiling issue judging by the discoloration on the crank and big end of the rod. I don't think you did anything wrong with the rod bolts as I could see the aluminum on the threads, they likely pulled out during the rod "coming apart" phase. The rod let go and the piston was free to strike the head and break your spark plug. That's likely why the top ring is stuck in the piston. It's a tough break Nic but at least it's fixable! I've had much worse happen. Hang in there!
Ya I think I've decided it was low oil and the kids holding wide open for to long. The thing that gets me is that both bolts were there and not broken and the cap was in one piece. I don't know. I replaced it with an arc rod and it's bad already too.
My first thought is how long was she riding with a rod knock, or did it break very suddenly? I agree with KFF. Do you know the reason for the oil loss? Had to be blowing out the vent right? You should be able to use a 6271 rod and a 550 CH flat top to get close to or right at the deck with the piston.
I don't even know if she knows what rod knock is man lol but ya oil had to be going out the vent. We should have been checking it more regularly that's fo sho! Lesson learned no doubt!
What probably happened was it got soo hot that crank rod journal binded then the force of it all blew the con rod to bits. Only really see this in engines without oil or engines that cant drain oil fast enough, because the things take only half a quart its not too uncommon for them to have most of the oil still be draining from the head and back into the sump for the crank which then starves the crank of oil. So boring out the draining hole in the block is a nice reliability mod as the head still gets oil in and gets oil out and back to the crank
It was definitely low on oil. We will start checking it a lot more often fo sho. The oil drain hole between the tappets is drilled out. I don't remember the size I'd have to go back to the original build videos and see what size I went with.
@@nicsminibikes I don't think the screws backed out because of the damage on the crank. The crank looks like someone put 24 grit sandpaper and spun it. A loose rod wouldn't do that sort of damage, that would be more indicative of the clearance between the crank and the rod being non-existent then spinning with zero clearance till the thing binded up to the point of essentially being welded then grenaded the thing. As for the head I'd mill that thing down for more compression or smooth it out with a higher grit sanding drum so not too much material is taken off, porcelain probably did that to the head if Im being honest
@@lerabidheavy7437 ya all the nasty thick oil residue left on the rod is probably from oil getting on it while it was hot as all get out. As far as the head goes I have a good sized piece of glass I'm going to stick some fine sand paper too and resurface it and the block. Basically the whole thing could vary well be we ran it to low on oil.
@@nicsminibikes I wouldn't even go fine with it, I usually mill my heads 60 grit starting off then finish with 320 cause doing it by hand be too slow to start on fine
Ive sold a bunch of stuff off i blew my Tillotson last oct ive been running a ghost on my mm80 but the warrior is almost done so need a motor for my 80 ive got a 224 laying around ive sold all my spare motors not sure what to do at this point think ill just build a wc223
Wildcat is the new go to it seems like. I would like to get one. I have 2 blown 224s in the garage now. I just built up a pair of 212 hemis for our race bikes. I hope they hold up better than the 224s did
@nicsminibikes after I bought my polaris ranger for the house ive pretty much been just using ive got so many offers on the warrior been hard not to sell it
Looks like it was an oiling issue judging by the discoloration on the crank and big end of the rod. I don't think you did anything wrong with the rod bolts as I could see the aluminum on the threads, they likely pulled out during the rod "coming apart" phase. The rod let go and the piston was free to strike the head and break your spark plug. That's likely why the top ring is stuck in the piston. It's a tough break Nic but at least it's fixable! I've had much worse happen. Hang in there!
Ya I'm happy everything else looks ok. We definitely got lucky!
Low oil and whatever oil was in there was nasty. Nothing wrong with EC rods everyone uses them in 236 and 263 motors
Ya I think I've decided it was low oil and the kids holding wide open for to long. The thing that gets me is that both bolts were there and not broken and the cap was in one piece. I don't know. I replaced it with an arc rod and it's bad already too.
My first thought is how long was she riding with a rod knock, or did it break very suddenly?
I agree with KFF. Do you know the reason for the oil loss? Had to be blowing out the vent right?
You should be able to use a 6271 rod and a 550 CH flat top to get close to or right at the deck with the piston.
I don't even know if she knows what rod knock is man lol but ya oil had to be going out the vent. We should have been checking it more regularly that's fo sho! Lesson learned no doubt!
What probably happened was it got soo hot that crank rod journal binded then the force of it all blew the con rod to bits. Only really see this in engines without oil or engines that cant drain oil fast enough, because the things take only half a quart its not too uncommon for them to have most of the oil still be draining from the head and back into the sump for the crank which then starves the crank of oil. So boring out the draining hole in the block is a nice reliability mod as the head still gets oil in and gets oil out and back to the crank
It was definitely low on oil. We will start checking it a lot more often fo sho. The oil drain hole between the tappets is drilled out. I don't remember the size I'd have to go back to the original build videos and see what size I went with.
@@nicsminibikes I don't think the screws backed out because of the damage on the crank. The crank looks like someone put 24 grit sandpaper and spun it. A loose rod wouldn't do that sort of damage, that would be more indicative of the clearance between the crank and the rod being non-existent then spinning with zero clearance till the thing binded up to the point of essentially being welded then grenaded the thing. As for the head I'd mill that thing down for more compression or smooth it out with a higher grit sanding drum so not too much material is taken off, porcelain probably did that to the head if Im being honest
@@lerabidheavy7437 ya all the nasty thick oil residue left on the rod is probably from oil getting on it while it was hot as all get out. As far as the head goes I have a good sized piece of glass I'm going to stick some fine sand paper too and resurface it and the block. Basically the whole thing could vary well be we ran it to low on oil.
@@nicsminibikes I wouldn't even go fine with it, I usually mill my heads 60 grit starting off then finish with 320 cause doing it by hand be too slow to start on fine
@@lerabidheavy7437 ya I've never done anything like that before and don't want to end up going crap that put some nasty scratches u know
Ive sold a bunch of stuff off i blew my Tillotson last oct ive been running a ghost on my mm80 but the warrior is almost done so need a motor for my 80 ive got a 224 laying around ive sold all my spare motors not sure what to do at this point think ill just build a wc223
Wildcat is the new go to it seems like. I would like to get one. I have 2 blown 224s in the garage now. I just built up a pair of 212 hemis for our race bikes. I hope they hold up better than the 224s did
@nicsminibikes after I bought my polaris ranger for the house ive pretty much been just using ive got so many offers on the warrior been hard not to sell it
@@heathenprojects2639 I have a hell of a time selling anything.
Looks like it got super hot without hardly any oil
Ya I think that probably contributed it to fo sho
@nicsminibikes just the discoloration on the rod really says enough lol nice bike though
@@bigboygaming4397 ya it definitely ran low on oil. the part that gets me is the cap is fully intact as well as both rod bolts.
@nicsminibikes did you torque them with oil on them or no?
I don't remember but I usually do. I know the instructions give different specs for how u do it.
Not enough piston to head clearance.
If I remember right it had .027 or .028 piston to head clearance.
I did have a good chunk of porcelain come off the spark plug and that's what smashed between the piston and head causing the top ring to seize.