Dodge Ram Front Axle Service 2003-2013
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- Опубліковано 24 бер 2022
- TorqueKingTV presents : 2003-2013 Dodge Ram AAM 9.25 Service Video.
2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 Ram 2500, 3500
Front Axle
Parts & Tools used in this video:
Axle shaft seal remover:
TS4862 includes
QT1145 Drive rod
QT1151 Extension
QT1214 Seal Remover
QU95007 Jam Nuts
Axle Seal Installer:
QK4685 includes
QT1143 Seal Installer
QT1193 Thrust Plate
TS1195 Press Screw Assembly
QU10945 Seal
Axle Shafts:
QU11109 Right Axle Shaft Assembly 2003-2008
QU10954 Left Axle Shaft Assembly 2003-2008
QU50824 Right Inner Axle Shaft 2003-2009
QU50821 Left Inner Axle Shaft 2003-2009
QU11036 Outer Axle Shaft 2003-2008
QU40765 OEM Non Greasable U Joint 2003-2009
TK40444 Premium Non Greasable U Joint 2003-2009
TKA40446 Premium Greasable U Joint 2003-2009
QU40617 Outer Axle Shaft Slinger 2003-2009
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QA11193 Right Axle Shaft Assembly 2010-2013.5
QA11192 Left Axle Shaft Assembly 2010-2013.5
QU50824 Right Inner Axle Shaft 2010-2013.5
QU50823 Left Inner Axle Shaft 2010-2013.5
QU50825 Outer Axle Shaft 2010-2013.5
TK50253 OEM Non Greasable U Joint 2010-2013.5
QU11173 Greasable U Joint 2010-2013.5
QU40617 Outer Axle Shaft Slinger 2010-2013.5
U Joint Kit
QU11262 2003-2009 Includes:
OEM Non Greasable U Joints
QU40617 Outer Axle Shaft Slinger
QU10861 Hub Bolts
QU40114 Axle Shaft Nut
QU40269 Axle Shaft Washer
QU40291 Axle Shaft Cotter Pin
QU11262 2010-2013.5 Includes:
TK50253 OEM Non Greasable U Joints
QU40617 Outer Axle Shaft Slinger
QU10861 Hub Bolts
QU40114 Axle Shaft Nut
QU40269 Axle Shaft Washer
QU40291 Axle Shaft Cotter Pin
Axle Shaft Outer Nut Kit
QK4732 Includes:
QU40114 Axle Shaft Nut
QU40269 Axle Shaft Washer
QU40291 Axle Shaft Cotter Pin
Axle Shaft Nut Socket
QT1008i
U Joint Tool Kit
TS3065 Master Press Set Includes:
QT1065M C Frame Press
QT4008 1” Press Tip
QT4011 1.25” Press Tip
QT4008 Small U Joint Separator
QT4009 Large U Joint Separator
QT4014 1-1/16” Cap Anvil
QT4016 1-3/16” Cap Anvil
QT4015 1-3/8” Cap Anvil
Ball Joint Kit
QK4586 Includes:
QU50871 OEM Ball Joint Kit
QU10602 Tie Rod Nut
QU40291 Cotter Key
S24200 Blue Threadlocker
S9975 Anti Seize
QT9404 Application Brush
Optional Upgrade Ball Joint Kits
TK11266 Carly Extreme Duty
TK42058 Dynatrac Rebuildable
Also Available
QK4850 Aftermarket Greasable Ball Joint Kit
Ball Joint Tools
TS1082 Ball Joint Press Kit Includes:
QT1065M C Frame Press
QT1067 Upper Ball Joint Installer
QT1154 Upper Ball Joint Installer Anvil
QT1155 Lower Ball Joint Installer
QT1148 Lower Ball Joint Installer Anvil
QT1152 Upper and Lower Press Stub Remover
QT1153 Upper and Lower Remover Anvil (and lower boot installer)
Wheel Hubs
QU10890 2003-2005
QU50417 2006-2008
QU11314 2009-2011
QU11315 2012-2013.5
Optional Hub Kits
Visit our site for USA Made Dynatrac Free Spin options
Visit our site for imported Yukon Spin Free options
Differential Bearing and Seal Kit
TK4880 Includes:
QU50539 Outer Pinion Bearing Cup
QU50540 Outer Pinion Bearing
QU12017 Inner Pinion Bearing Cup
QU50548 Inner Pinion Bearing
QU50546 Differential Bearing Cup
QU50547 Differential Bearing
QU10862 Crush Sleeve
QU10865 Pinion Seal
QU11106 Pinion Seal Wear Sleeve
QU10864 Pinion Washer
QU10865 Pinion Nut
QU10965 Diff Cover Gasket
QU10945 Inner Axle Shaft Seal
S24200 Threadlocker
QU90008 Gear Marking Compound
QT9404 Application Brush
Differential Parts
Visit our Site for options
Ring and Pinion Kits
Visit our Site for options
Pinion Yokes
QU50727 2003-2012 Serrated Flange
A560740 2013-2013.5 Flat Flange
Pinion Driveshaft Bolts
QU11028 OE Torx Bolt 2003-2012 for Serrated Flange
QU70008 Torque King Hex Flange Bolt 2003-2012 for Serrated Flange
QU11230 for Flat Flange
Other Tools
Inner Pinion Bearing Cup Driver
Outer Pinion Bearing Cup Driver
QT1100 1” x 8” Driver Handle
QT1103 1-1/4” x 8” Pro Duty Driver Handle
QT1101 1” x 14” Driver Handle
QT1119 1-1/4” x 14” Pro Duty Driver Handle
QT9202 8 Piece Pick Set
If this content helped you find a part you need, please consider giving this video a like, comment, and subscribe! Thanks for watching, and good luck keeping your rig on the road!
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perfect video. headed over to a buddy's shop to do this tonight. Appreciate you taking the time to film and edit this. Cheers, Danny
So thorough and well spoken. Lighting is great, dog is cute this video rocks!! 🎉
Im just doing my front axle seals and this is by far the most helpful video big thanks man
Well documented process, thank you!
dude, a whole nother level. well done
Thank you so much for your quick response I’ll be sure to look at those components.
Great resource. Thanks for the video.
Fantastic video man!
Very Useful Information - Thank you
Just bought a 2017 1500 and driving home 3 hours it would shake off and on. Besides bushing and ball joints now I know where to look
Great video and thank you...
Glad you enjoyed it
Sweet and fun
i did my u-joints without renoving axle shafts while doung ball joints, easy pease, even for a 64 year old retired diesel mechanic with a 03 3rd gen sitting on driveway,
Nice job. I thought plan next year to change my front axle on my 95 to a later model to install 3 gen brakes . Up grade steering linkage ect ect . At one time I had wanted to go with locking hubs and get rid of the cad say a 2002 axle . May be Timken bearings . The unit bearing seem to last OK. Not sure thanks for the videos
Just finished one front unjoint I wanna cry
Great Video! Subscribed
One question, how far into the axle housing do you set the axle seals?
This particualr tool set is depth-stop to factory specs.
I need to do the bearings in my front and rear end and all of the videos I've watched I have yet to see anyone set pinion depth according to FSM. The tool alone is $500 so im curious how did you go about setting your pinion depth and how do you know the proper nut torque if you dont have a rolling torque number to start with?
If just replacing bearings, 99.9 times out of 100 the pinion depth will not change, and if it does any change will be minute. This is assuming that good quality bearings are used. We do have another video posted of measuring Spicer axles which is a similar procedure.
If changing major components, depth would need to be adjusted. Instead of buying the tool you could just get an extra set of pinion bearings to grind out until they are a slip fit. use those along with the old crush sleeve and nut to check the pattern with gear marking compound. We do use pinion depth tools for initial setup, but the fine tuning is always done with slip fit bearings and marking compound.
Any time the pinion nuts are removed, the crush sleeve and nut should be replaced. This procedure is in the FSM, no prior rolling torque number is needed.
Man they don’t make the QU90054 tie wire like they used to before.
Any videos or recommendations on removing the front axle completely like you did?
No videos on that and I don't know what kind of vehicle lifting ans safety equipment you have, but the basic procedure is remove and hang calipers, unbolt control arms from frame and shock top bolts, and make sure ABS wires/ drag link/ track bar/ sway bar links are disconnected.
I would recommend following safe removal steps in the factory service manual.
You mentioned that the wheel hub should come out with a suitable wheel hub puller. Is there something suitable that you can point me to?
Now that most things are discontinued after this video was made, Mac Tools L39250 or L39300 + air hammer to drive on the bolts is about all that remains for removing a rusted in hub. If you can find a used J&J Hub Puller, that is the best tool we have used.
Also heat cycle around the knuckle/hub pilot a couple times with a MAP torch and spray a good penetrating oil as it cools. Heating will push air out and loosen things up a bit, and cooling will suck the oil in. You can use a regular torch but be careful not to overheat.
I have just picked my 06 ram mega cab from having the bearings replaced, I no longer hear the whining but now whenever I'm turning left or right there is heavy grinding noise but worse on the left turn and when starting from a dead stop, what do suppose was done wrong? I'm returning to the shop so that they can fix the issue.
I'd say a bad axle shaft joints are bad, or something in the differential. Also check the front driveshaft, it's probably not that but the CV head is a service item.
Hey just wondering how sure are you on the ring gear torque and also do you not need threadlocker on ring gear bolts?
The procedure/specs is right out of the Chrysler manual. Some applications don't specify threadlocker, while others have it pre-applied on new bolts. I would say use at your own discretion, however my personal stuff usually gets medium strength on everything.
@Torque King TV thanks for reply, your videos made my life easier that's for sure.
At 37:20, it says you tighten 6 holes for new bearings 4 holes for old bearings. Does that mean you back off the pinion side 6 or 4 holes or is that referring to the initial backlash setting of 4 holes on the ring gear side? Seems like that’s too much side play
That is shifting both nuts over to achieve specified gear lash, plus preload.
I got a 05 ram 2500 got stuck in the mud one time and only one of my front tires was spinning
Are these front diffs non lsd?
Besides the reintroduced Power Wagon that has E-Lockers, the regular pickups do not come with any type of traction devices in the front. There are some aftermarket options available.
What is the approximate torque to start crushing a new pinion crush sleeve?
They frequently exceed 300 ftlbs to start the crush.
Just did this on my 03 9.25 and 50 miles later the outer pinion bearing went out, with indications it had gotten hot. It had plenty of fluid in it. Have you seen a similar issue?
Hi- yes we did have a local customer with the same issue a few months ago. We determined there was an issue seating the bearings correctly so the torque loosened up on the crush sleeve as the vehicle was in motion.
I wouldn't say it's a common issue but it does happen.
@@TorqueKingTV thank you!
I appreciate the video, great info. But just watching it gives me a headache. My knees and back are hurting already, just thinking about doing this in my driveway 😕
For the axle ends, a comfortable stool can be a lifesaver. The diff can be done on a nice creeper, just make sure you get all your tools before you lay down!
👍👍👍🙏🏻
My differential definitely is not coming out that easy. My 2014 ram 2500 has the same setup. Any ideas??
Once you loosen the nuts it will fall right out.
Silly question, you did remove the axle shafts first correct?
Do the axle shaft need to be marked & orientated the same way they came apart
No, but it wouldn't hurt. They are unbalanced assemblies.
@@TorqueKingTV Thank you
what shim size do you use to start with?
For just replacing bearings, use the factory shim. For a regear, measure pinion depth to identify correct shim.
I just picked up a 2005 power wagon that needs a front diff service. How much difference is that diff to service since it has the electronic lockers.
The diff carrier itself is a bit different, just don't drop anything or pull on the internal harness too hard. The electromagnetic components are kind of delicate. I would recommend putting a folded up moving blanket (or something else padded) under the axle while removing the diff. I believe Harbor Freight has them for pretty cheap.
Besides that, the bearing and gear procedures are the same.
@@TorqueKingTV awesome info, thank you. Quality video.
My question is simple how much it cost to do this presidure on a 2008 ram 6.7
Depending on what your local shop rates are, probably $1000+ in labor plus parts. If you do it yourself, depending on what exactly needs replaced you can potentially be under $1000 in parts and tools, plus a couple days of your time.
Do you have anything on a 2018 4500 ram front axel input seal?
We are working on that video now! Parts are in stock torqueking.com/category/pinion-yokes-seals-2008-2018-ram-magna-front/
what would this service cost? 2 grand? like if i buy a dodge ram 2500 and go get this service done how much do you think it would be?
Depends what it needs. To have it done, figure 1000 in parts and 1-2000 in labor, depending on your local rates for a bearing and seal replacement. Add on more to replace major components. Of course, most shops put the cheapest parts in while still charging a premium.
Could do it yourself for quite a bit less.
If you got a differential
supposed to be good, not making noise is it typical that it would be loose and could be tightened up to have the clearance reset or am I dealing with something thats trash doesn’t seem to make any noise or have any problem but I believe somebody put some new parts on this truck and never set it up right you can turn the driveshaft with a lot of play between the gear lash😮 thanks.
If you have excessive lash, you will want to check everything. Could be as simple as needing to adjust the side bearing nuts but an in-depth inspection will let you know if bearings need replaced.
@@TorqueKingTV yeah that’s what I’m afraid of. I bought a complete high-quality USA. Timken bearings the whole shot for a complete rebuild. Then I found another rear end cheap. It seems to be tight I’m gonna pick up I may just put some new seals in that one first and put it in so I can rebuild the other one on the bench instead of underneath a truck in the snow which is probably coming. Thanks for the info. I’m sure you’re probably right I’m pretty sure the pinion bearing went. I didn’t find any metal in the thing but there was some pieces of junk in there and I get the feeling this truck they put a bunch of new parts in it. They never adjusted anything the ring gear that’s in there look at somebody took a 4 inch grinder and tried to divert or something, so I just bought all new gears and everything whatever I don’t need I’ll send back I’m actually getting into rebuilding these where I might be able to get really good deals on parts out of Detroit and then just charge charge a standard $500 rebuilding fee, which is probably about 30 to 40% of a dealership close I’m real I’m willing to help all the hot rider guys boy cleaning the thing re-painting it and they can go with all new parts like plates and brakes in the whole shot and that’s fine. They’ll have a complete like brand new rear end, cheaper than they be able to get it anywhere, I’ll tell you what the real problem is on these things don’t use that damn synthetic oil would happen on mine is they put a chrome cover on there that was probably Chinese in because the check the synthetic oil has no anti-rust in it the stuff was like Crisco and it rusted right through the plate and leaked very slow so he didn’t pick it up so by the time I pull the pan off it was practically dry strange 01 dodge are on the company. People had this type a rear end around for 40 years and before the synthetic oil garbage is coming out they never blew nothing. This is definitely not your father’s Dodge. Silantros is a joke all they use cheapen stuff. I just read yesterday that the 2004 ram 1500 trucks may actually be one of the last good years because they actually came from DaimlerChrysler who was trying to address whatever problems they found if anybody knows the name of the kit that you could replace all the heater box doors with aluminum doors that don’t break off when you drive down dirt road, let me know because my nephew says there’s one out there if you ask me and I’m going to file a complaint and I encourage everybody else to do it when I do it I’ll probably publish it. I’m actually sort of a retired lawyer but I’m more in the hot rod shit arms, I think God should have to recall all lease cars and trucks that the heater boxes air vents fell apart or don’t work because everyone of them does it is it amazing how you can go into a junkyard and find a 70 Chevelle well you’re not gonna find one anymore but years ago and everything worked on the car the ignition in the heater box in all the controls but now we build this junk and if you don’t replace the ignition switch, the battery goes dead and if you don’t fix the heater, you don’t have any defrosters and you probably freeze your ass in the winter It’s ridiculous. I want to see American quality back in America and I’m sure you do as well the only way to do that is by writing law and destroying NAFTA in US MCA that it was renamed and put down law to all the companies that are actually run by a monopoly young by JP Morgan that we see you either get back here or you are banned from importing your stuff into America because we don’t want junk that has no quality control that they throw handfuls of salt or whatever it is in the steel made in China because it’s no good. It just rust out cracked brakes off whatever it’s garbage I had a brand new gas tank bracket look brand new last year this year the gas tank almost fell out. It was obviously replaced with Chinese steel. You know the easy way to fix it you go down to Walmart and you get a 2 inch ratcheting straps. Can you wrap it around to make sure you get it over the top support that hangs the tank can you pull it back up shove it back up with a jack slowly with the board where it supposed to be and you ratchet that strap and you cut off the straps it’s not hanging down, it’s probably a lot better than original. They should probably actually make some Kevlar straps to put in these tanks and they would be permanent. They’d be easy to drop. I will never understand why we have to have a fuel pump inside of a tank they could’ve just as easily put it in front of the tank, I really don’t think it would’ve made a difference if they were to put it up there in the engine compartment so you could easily worked and it seems to work fine on the drag boat actually electric fuel pump on the car with the carburetor works just about like fuel injection, become because it pumped up the fuel pressure before you start the engine in pretty much when you pump the gas young, she primes her with a nice shot a Gaston whom starts right up I couldn’t believe the 409 that I rebuilt was probably the best Engine I ever rebuilt. I put it in the drag boat told my little brother OK I’ve been through everything it looks like it’s ready. Got to see what happens. I turn on the key pumped up the fuel pressure and the damn thing started like I just shut it off, the timing was right and everything was right on all the valves with the Iske roller cam. We looked underneath at the prop with a 20% overdrive and said holy shit. This thing is going to fly lol yeah I’m about 30 miles an hour at idle and when you punch it, there was no hesitation you just heard his echo and it was doing 100 you got to give a flat bottom drag boat there’s no trip like it, I still want it she’s a 1966 speaker with all my custom upholstered seats burn up in the house for you I’m gonna have to start over it’s too bad cause I had a customs golden crossbones so right in the seat. it was funny because the skull in the distance kind of look like a cop boat insignia in my buddy says I’m fishing there and I hear this boat idling with this big, huge cam and he’s like who is shit what? No he’ll do the pigs have they must mean serious business L O L this thing one so fast, it could come right up on the prop. I actually took is supercharged 494 Ford in a modified jet. He waited till we got doing about 50 before he finally punched it, and I punched it probably took in my four or five weeks before his blower really come to wife and I just use his screech and he come up next to me and just beat me and he was cool. We were talking for a minute. He said he knew my boat before I bought it but I went back home and I was like that’s it. I’m pulling the L 88 out of the Chevelle and putting a blower on it, instead I won’t get beat next time. Unfortunately I heard the guy is dead now not from boats, but apparently got a fatal disease and he was a super rich guy in charge of a big corporation or owned it or something. He had a beautiful boat. A few other businesses around town knew the guy he wasn’t from around there it was up in Michigan. I think he was from Chicago, I love all the stuff especially supercharged engines. I worked for Perkins diesel for probably eight years before they started having problems of management.
Just did the inner axle seals on my 2012 ram 2500 and they are leaking after the first drive…
Sounds like you may need a QK4685... torqueking.com/product/4685/qk4685-front-inner-axle-seal-and-tool-kit-2003-13-ram-aam-925-14-bolt/
Says front axle service in title why are you showing back rear?
Sure looks like the front to me unless you have a rear steer axle! Offset differential housing and knuckle "C" at each end of tube kind of give it away...
Bruh!!!!!!!!!!
I anti seize everything. My hub comes off with no effort or hammering.