I replaced those hex screws to adjust the fence with some custom screws I made that have a nice brass knurled knob with a slot cut so I can use a slotted screwdriver to adjust it. I like it much better
that’s certainly one way to do it. I wanted to take a good thick cut to show how easy it is to use this small plane to do real grunt work. This s a really good plow plane. It can handle a nasty thick cut without any struggle.
I liked seeing it in action. It looks nice and is a handy size. A couple of smarty pants comments, 1 - You mentioned that you could go the other direction by putting the fence on the other side. Pretty sure this will not work. They make left and right handed versions for this kind of thing. 2- The lack of a spur (or knicker) is a deal breaker for me, the boxes I make have fronts and backs, not just sides. So looks like I will be sticking with my Stanley 45 for now.
Thanks for comments! Glad you watched my video. I can see there is a lot more ground that I should cover with this plane. I try to keep the videos short, but perhaps making them more thorough but longer would be a good idea. I will make a video covering the points you brought up. This plane design is rather simple. It does work with the fence on the other side just fine. I’m ambidextrous. If you have Stanley 45, the only “advantage” you would get is a dedicated plough plane. It is easy enough to use the plane without spurs. I was taking very thick cuts in the video, to demonstrate how well it tracks and cuts at the extreme. But if you take finer cuts, you won’t get any tear out on the sides. You can easily do stopped grooves, you would need only about 1/4” stop on each end. Sides, front, back, would make no difference. As then any groove would not interfere with your joinery.
I had the same issue with the back screw not tightening down on the fence, and I called Veritas to see if this was planned. They considered it a defect and sent me a new plane without the slop in it. Where did you see information stating that the back of the fence was not supposed to lock?
the tiny manual that comes with it doesn’t state specifically, but only shows or mentions loosening the front screw. I will contact Lee Valley and see what they say. Thanks for the info, much appreciated
I JUST got mine delivered…. Were you constantly adjusting the blade depth as you went along, or altering your approach to the board? I’d like to see another video featuring it in different woods… what were you plowing into? Thanks again for the video! Art Fahie, Maine
once I got the blade where I wanted, it stayed there no movement. This board is Big Leaf Maple, it is an ugly off cut from one I took down that was too close to my barn. Milled with a chainsaw. I will be building an espresso mug rack out of Douglas Fir, this plane will be featured. I will consider doing a different woods planing video, using several different planes. I have access to black walnut, doug fir, yellow and red cedar, spruce and resin pine. Are any of those of interest to you? If not, what would you like to see?
Ha, I hear ya. I also have the Combination plane, and a review here on my woodworking channel. This little plow plane is just so easy to use. IF you are doing lots of drawers or boxes, I would pick one up for sure. Oh wait, I did ;)
I replaced those hex screws to adjust the fence with some custom screws I made that have a nice brass knurled knob with a slot cut so I can use a slotted screwdriver to adjust it. I like it much better
Ive been looking for some myself. Might have to get a small benchtop metal lathe or mill.
I tend to agree with other comments, a rather heavy cut. Good review.
yup, as heavy as I could make it. To show how easy it is to use even while taking very heavy cuts. Next time, I’ll do both.
Lighter cuts. Start at the far end of the board and work back to the near side.
that’s certainly one way to do it. I wanted to take a good thick cut to show how easy it is to use this small plane to do real grunt work. This s a really good plow plane. It can handle a nasty thick cut without any struggle.
I liked seeing it in action. It looks nice and is a handy size. A couple of smarty pants comments, 1 - You mentioned that you could go the other direction by putting the fence on the other side. Pretty sure this will not work. They make left and right handed versions for this kind of thing. 2- The lack of a spur (or knicker) is a deal breaker for me, the boxes I make have fronts and backs, not just sides. So looks like I will be sticking with my Stanley 45 for now.
Thanks for comments! Glad you watched my video.
I can see there is a lot more ground that I should cover with this plane. I try to keep the videos short, but perhaps making them more thorough but longer would be a good idea. I will make a video covering the points you brought up.
This plane design is rather simple. It does work with the fence on the other side just fine. I’m ambidextrous.
If you have Stanley 45, the only “advantage” you would get is a dedicated plough plane.
It is easy enough to use the plane without spurs.
I was taking very thick cuts in the video, to demonstrate how well it tracks and cuts at the extreme. But if you take finer cuts, you won’t get any tear out on the sides.
You can easily do stopped grooves, you would need only about 1/4” stop on each end. Sides, front, back, would make no difference. As then any groove would not interfere with your joinery.
I had the same issue with the back screw not tightening down on the fence, and I called Veritas to see if this was planned. They considered it a defect and sent me a new plane without the slop in it. Where did you see information stating that the back of the fence was not supposed to lock?
the tiny manual that comes with it doesn’t state specifically, but only shows or mentions loosening the front screw. I will contact Lee Valley and see what they say. Thanks for the info, much appreciated
well, there you go. Lee Valley says both screws should tighten it down.
I JUST got mine delivered…. Were you constantly adjusting the blade depth as you went along, or altering your approach to the board? I’d like to see another video featuring it in different woods… what were you plowing into? Thanks again for the video! Art Fahie, Maine
once I got the blade where I wanted, it stayed there no movement.
This board is Big Leaf Maple, it is an ugly off cut from one I took down that was too close to my barn. Milled with a chainsaw.
I will be building an espresso mug rack out of Douglas Fir, this plane will be featured.
I will consider doing a different woods planing video, using several different planes. I have access to black walnut, doug fir, yellow and red cedar, spruce and resin pine. Are any of those of interest to you? If not, what would you like to see?
Interesting review. Good detail for both pros and cons
Thanks kindly, I appreciate the feed back.
Set a bit heavy on the cut there I reckon. But a good review and a nice tool. Cheers
Thanks 👍
Why is it called a box makers ploughing plane and what distinguishes it from their regular plough plane which I currently own?
If you have the plough plane, you won’t need the box maker. The difference is size. The plough is larger and can fit a larger range of blades.
Your planing stop is breaking my brain, what’s with the ruler? 🙂
You like that eh? Veritas, I will do a review of it next week. It is my favourite. I use the ruler all the time, so there it sits, ready to hand.
Nice, makes perfect sense. Looking forward to the next vid. 🙂
Now , I'm resisting to be toolaholic 😂 tempting to have that tiny tool , i have the combination plane though 😊.
Thanks for sharing.
Ha, I hear ya. I also have the Combination plane, and a review here on my woodworking channel. This little plow plane is just so easy to use. IF you are doing lots of drawers or boxes, I would pick one up for sure. Oh wait, I did ;)
@@allenwc I don't know man , maybe I will.😔
Cut a little too heavy
deliberately, showing just hiw much you can cut in ine pass and how easy it is to use even at that extreme