Hello sir, you mentioned that your power supply has a weird buzzing noise. What kind of noise is it? I bought a Acer Orion 3000 pc, that the PSU has a weird buzzing noise (sound like some small consistant electric shock) even when the pc is turned off. I'm thinking about returning it and buy the Dell XPS as it's on sale right now, and I hope I don't get the same buzzing noise from the PSU that is causing the issue. BTW can the dell PSU be upgraded?
Just now seeing these cooling fan videos as I've ordered a Dell XPS (knowing that's potentially an issue but the specs to price ratio is tough to beat). I saw another video from Optimum Tech and he replaced it with a liquid cooling set-up. It dropped temp by 7-8 degrees and bumped the CPU speed up in the process.
@@JSyntax Update, I bought the cooler. As well as a new mobo and case. The average cpu temp now is never over 60 C regardless of load. Its insane to think dell ever thought a pancake cooler would ever suffice.
Thanks for the video! I decided to upgrade form the stock pancake cooler to the Noctua with the grubscrew method and it worked flawlessly. I am running games 15c cooler! I am also far from being an expert on computers but was still able to follow the simple tutorial. If anyone has any questions on my upgrade feel free to ask
Just wanted to thank you for this video. I got an XPS 8940 last summer, and only learned about the issues with this computer through troubleshooting it like it was my job. I used your video as a guide to replace the "pancake" cooler with the Noctua cooler and replace the case fan, and it went well. I had done things like swap out hard drives or upgrade RAM on other computers in the past, so this felt kind of "next level", but your instructions were clear and easy to follow. I probably still have some software issues to smooth out for the game I want to run, but I feel like my hardware is sorted. Thanks so much!
Thanks so much for this video! Made upgrading a breeze. By the way, I figured out a work around for us fellow Canadians. If you buy the 3M-0.5 x 25 mm machine screws (instead of the 20 mm size you showed in your video), you can use a pair of wire cutters to cut off the screw heads. From there, use the provided thumb screw hardware to work back in any warped threading. To do that, you simply screw and unscrew the thumb screws several times on the side you cut the head off from. Now you have homemade grub screws (without the Allen key hole). Worked perfectly for me to screw into the mother board, place the spacers and brackets over top, then secure with provided noctua thumb screw.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I don't ever make comments on UA-cam, but you video made my fix so smooth. Got the screws all ready before attempting to setup and it took me just a whooping 30 mins from start to end!
@@markstevens4264 I chose the first method (Non grub) and it wasnt tough at all to get the screws aligned. Don't need to go out of your way to get grub screws in my opinion if it isnt accessible
Fellow Canadian here with similar lack of access to the 3m screws. I ended up making the hole on the two metal plate bigger with my drill and used the thumb screws and plastic washers that came with the CPU cooler. worked like a charm.
I put in a cheap single fan AIO on mine, worked fine though looks like the dell psu couldnt cope with the additional 4 fans I also installed. The AIO did make a diff with performance though. Im putting the whole thing in a non-dell mobo/case/psu and using it as a secondary pc now.
Thank you so much J, you've helped me extend the life and performance of my G5. I'm a grubby American with my grub screws so I appreciated your dedicating a special section to it, it was extraordinarily easy even with little know how. The best resource for someone with the sad stock cooler.
appreciate the vid managed to get my Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE installed into my Dell G5 with no issues. took a trip down to canadian tire to grab some of those m3 20mm screws happened to get the last pack of 4 so was just perfect. didnt really have any trouble lining up the holes or anything when i put it on i just put them down and held one side while i shifted the other around in place with the screwdriver. was well worth it too i have an i9 with the poopy pancake heatsink after replacing it i went from being 60-70C at idle with thermal throttling constantly im a nice cool 35C during idle and only 75C during heavy gameplay. no more stuttering!
This is a great video that has saved my life. I saw it before buying my xps i7 11700 and rtx3060. I ordered the u9s as soon as I bought the computer. This install was nerve racking just because it was my first computer work. However your guide made it simple. It wasn’t nearly as hard to find the screws for me In the US. But all in all my temps went from 95c(pancake cooler) to a max of 67c. I’m so happy my cpu isn’t trying to combust anymore. Thanks for this wonderful video!
Hello JSyntax, good video. No problem to wobble a bit the CPU cooler, if not too much Thermal paste is applied. Half of your big pea, so it can't fall too much from the CPU heat spreader. With your Noctua Cooler, you need to install Intel extreme tuning utility, in order to boost the CPU burst period to 128 seconds, instead of 20 seconds. Since the Main Board is limited for overclocking. Better buy pre-built, only for the GPU. Regards
@@JSyntax Thx. Very good your idea to print a mount for a 120mm intake fan, even if it cancelled the possibility to install a 3.5 inch HDD. Lucky the front Dell aeration grid is truly perforated. Still the Lenovo Legion pre-built has a better airflow and less proprietary components.
I've upgraded the stock cooler on a Dell XPS and HP Envy with the Noctua NH-U9S using the stock back plate. Just used the correct spacers for the socket and M3 x 20mm screws. Everything went together with no problem or modification.
Amazing video, really great instructions and extremely informative. Thank you for creating this. Context: I just bought the 8950 from Costco with the i7-12700 RTX3080 & 64gb ram. I plan on doing this upgrade will share notes. As I live in the US and used to have time to build custom cases, I may just go with the m3-20mm screws because I just have larger fingers and it’s always tough getting my fingers in that small space. Will share my experience.
I've just completed the install right this afternoon! To make it easier for you so that you can apply the whole thing to the mother board with only ONE TRIAL, try to connect 2 metal bracket to the heatsink first (through two screws at both left and right sides of the heatsink) , and then apply the whole thing to the mother board with 4 screws. Final, attach the fan to the heatsink!
Your method doesn't work. If you attach both metal brackets to the heatsink first, 1 of the metal bracket (on the non-fan side) cannot be accessible by screwdriver hence cannot be screwed onto the motherboard. Instead, attach only 1 of the metal bracket onto the heatsink on the fan side, and screw the other metal bracket onto the motherboard BEFORE you attempt to put the heatsink onto the CPU.
The pea sized amount is good; too much thermal paste is better than less if its non conductive Also yes you can shuffle the heatsink with no issues. If anything its good for the mount to make sure the whole ihs is covered Also you could just have the m3 screws all positioned onto the bracket before you mount it, and hand tighen before you use a screwdriver. Also you'll need to check if youve mounted the cooler with enough pressure. I think theres a reason why people have recomended the 16mm screws with different standoffs. Your first mount looks like there was not enough pressure on the CPU.
I just want to say thank you for making this video! I was pretty uninformed about the problems with this computers design when I purchased it a few months ago and was getting very concerned about the running temperature. Your videos gave me the confidence to take on this solution and it's making a huge difference, my cpu temps have dropped 30ish degrees since replacing that pancake cooler. Thank you so much and I wish you well.
Did you have to calibrate the new cooler? I have mine installed but for some reason I think its not even close to working at its best as my temps are still high. Any advice?
Guys, I recently replaced a Dell 95w cooler on a 2015 Dell XPS 8900 (6700k) with a thermalright peerless assassin 120, using thermalrights' mount (this was in an aftermarket case)- if you buy a separate CPU retention bracket for your socket (in my case, socket is LGA1151, available on eBay), and remove Dell's CPU retention bracket/ mounting bracket that is all one piece, and install your new, smaller CPU retention bracket, you then have room to use aftermarket mounts for coolers. Just another option to consider, especially if getting some of these small screws in the video is difficult for you
The Arctic Freezer i13X is also a direct replacement, no need to buy washers and screws. You'll still get the pre-boot system performance check if you connect the freezer i13x to the cpu fan header. This is easily solved if you use the stock cpu fan as an exhaust /intake fan. You then use a pwm fan splitter from the cpu fan header. The connector with 4 pins goes to the exhaust/intake fan and the connector with 3 pins goes to the freezer i13X.
I did the upgrade with the cooler master fan and while it is definitely cooler that the stock pancake I am not noticing 30 degree reductions like some people mention
If you want M3 grub screws and you already got m3 machine screws - all you need to do is cut the head off with a Dremel and most people will know someone that has one of those (probably the same person who has the screws). Thermal compound despite its name doesn't actually conduct heat well at all, its really acting as a gasket otherwise the cooler would only transfer heat on the high bits. As a result it should be as thin as possible barely a smidge, the tube you have there should never run out no matter how many PC's you do! I've still got a tube from 1990 when I was making amplifiers it lasts for ever and if you get it on your clothes or anything else it last forever there too. The reason you don't see any difference is that if you were below 90C with the k cooler then it will just run the same as if it was below 80c - however, if the fans are better quality and quieter then its worth it. The really crappy pancake cooler is actually sufficient for most needs and the cpu will throttle for when its not so the idea was that Dell worked as hard as possible to get the minimum cost. I think that approach suits us very well. I got the F with a crap cooler and prefer the option to fit what I wanted. The Dell G5 right now is basically an RTX graphics card with a free PC and I think they did a good job hitting that price point and keeping the stock flowing when everyone else ground to a halt.
Agreed, the pancake cooler, while loud, will work, even if throttling loses some performance on the CPU. The only thing I wish Dell hadn't compromised at all are the exclusion of VRM heatsinks on the F model CPU variant. With combined CPU and GPU load, those VRM's get hot and while they're rated all the way up to 120c, their longevity will suffer greatly without the heatsink, and there are a few cases on the forums where they actually blew. You can get the heatsink independently either 3rd party of from dell if you didn't get it, so I fully recommend it if the g5 is going to be your gaming go-to.
@@tristantheafflicted do you have a link for these? I used thermal camera and they only get to 60C but I feel they should be heatsinked if I can easily add it.
Thanks man very helpful I bought the stock pancake cooler as I didn’t really know what I was buying should of watched your last vid first haha. Think I will leave the it up to a computer shop but I will 100% upgrade it as soon as it arrives
I find it funny how so many videos talk about trying to find screws to fit the existing stand offs under the mother board. I broke them all off and then installed my cooler as it was intended. No issues at all.
Just an FYI, m3 machine thread screws are very popular in the RC community so if you're in Canada and need m3 screws/bolts/nuts/washers of all different lengths/depths/thicknesses, try an RC hobby store. Since I build both PCs and RCs, I have a huge collection of m3s ranging from 5mm to 100mm in length, all from hobby stores both local and online.
I had a G5000 with that original intel fan, what I did to upgrade to a U9S was simply cut off that 4 radiator supporter which fixed on case, then you will realize you are able to install any kind of cooler in the market, put things right once and for all.
@@JSyntax I will forward you some pic through email, as I have no idea how to upload them here. First of all, this method will need to take off the motherboard from the case, I believe there is an instruction from the owner manual (I have spent an hour on this step). Once the motherboard has been taken off, you would see 4 short support (I used a grinder to cut it off). Then install U9S as what DIY normally do on the motherboard and put everything back in case (it's better to test it before putting them back).
Save your microfiber towels and use coffee filters, they don't leave fibers behind and work great. No issue with moving the heatsink around on top of the IHS of the CPU just spreads the thermal interface material around more. The application of thermal paste seemed fine, rice size is good, you can have too little paste, but not really too much with in reason.
Excellent content. I have the G5500 with the less powerful fan and was looking for a way to reduce CPU heat. I know virtually nothing about the inner workings of the computer other than adding RAM and hard drive space, but I may try the fan upgrade by following your video. 🇨🇦
Thanks a lot! I was looking everywhere for information on this topic. I think after all of this I'm going to upgrade and migrate all of my parts to a new case.
Great walkthrough on fitting the noctua heatsink to that Dell G5. Linked to friend of mine to it and she fitted the cooler to her Dell G5 Pc i7-10700F. She's not that techy but had no problems thanks to your UA-cam, Thanks!
I've been building computers since 2001. Don't bother with "dime size/pea size/dot pattern" for your thermal paste. First and foremost, let's regard it's purpose: Thermal paste does NOT help conduct heat between the CPU heatspreader and the cooler base. Yes, I said that right. You want as much metal-to-metal contact between those surfaces as you can get, but the job of the thermal paste is to create a heat bridge between all of the GAPS between the heatspreader and the heatsink. Air is a great insulator, so you don't want any air gaps between the surfaces. That paste of dielectric grease and finely ground silver particles is there to fill every groove, pit, and air gap between the microscopic ridges of the two surfaces and bridge heat across them, but not to be the primary transfer medium. There's not a thermal paste out there that makes heat transfer between metals BETTER. Adding a blob and hoping that the pressure of the heatsink is enough to squeeze out most of it is less than optimal. You want heat going from metal-to-metal with the least amount of interference from the paste as an intermediary. That said, the "old-school" way is to place a small dab on whichever surface is larger, flatter, and easier to work with (usually the CPU) and work it gently with a flat razor blade. You're using a razor because it is incredibly flat and clean, not because you want to cut anything, so you drag the blade across, not push it. You work the blade in a cross-hatch from at least 4 different directions until you get an even distribution of paste on the surface in the THINNEST LAYER that is practical. You will be absolutely amazed at how much paste you remove in the process! OEMs of coolers add too much paste to guarantee 100% coverage, but they have to have a large safety factor because of human error that they can't control. Too much paste is still better than not enough, but too much paste will REDUCE heat transfer. So you're going to get a thin, even layer on ONE surface, place the cooler on as squarely as possible, and gently twist or slide to align within say 1/8" or ~4mm. It's totally okay to lift the heatsink and look at the pattern. There's more than enough paste in the tube for 2-3 applications, but it's not like you have to throw it away when resetting, just collect any overflow, gently scrape or wipe one surface, re-spread it all evenly onto the other side and try again. DO NOT lift the cooler and then smash it back down without re-spreading the paste or there will be gaps. To some degree you have to "get a feel for" whether you need to start over or not. The paste doesn't have great shear strength, and you don't want to introduce gaps from sliding or rotating it too far, but a wiggle or two are fine. Lastly, that paste needs time to set UNDER LOAD. It is a paste, and after it heats up it will flow and squish out the sides ever so slightly as it seeks to further fill those tiniest of scratches and gaps. Check your temps again after a couple of days or a good torture test and you will almost always find it cools better after "bedding in".
@@billmahan6373 If it's working for you, no need to change it. You only have to reapply/re-spread paste when removing & replacing a heatsink. It doesn't break down like engine oil - or at least not in a timeframe that matters to practical use.
Hi, nice video, thanks for make it, I suggest one more alternative to install easer the noctua, just cut the heads of the m3 screws, but put the nut first to redo the thread of the cut part, use m3 x 25 mm or longer
For a cheaper Fully compatible screw in option, Silverstone KR02 comes with compatible screws just screw mounting hardware straight into the backplate. 100% compatible. only $35 AUD in Australia and readily available. Temps will be about 80degrees.
I am planning to buy a XPS desktop in the future for video editing, recording and multitasking in general and I was afraid that my CPU would overheat after hearing about the horrible cpu cooler but now thanks to your video I know what to do.
Great video. I had to spend hours on dell forums and reddit to learn the exact same things mentioned here. This is the best video on this topic, clear and covers everything. I already did my upgrade from pancake cooler to Noctua and can clearly see the difference (I used 25 mm grub screws, as I got them easily here in the UK). On a side note, do you know if Dell sells the internal light bar? I bought a CPU with no clear side panel or internal lighting and so trying to find them.
Haha you lucky ppl in London. Yes, I wanted to cover some auxiliary topics like which noctua cooler is the best. As for the RGB bar, no it came with the pc. Are you going to make your case clear?
Yes, I ordered a clear side panel from Dell. They only have refurbished ones but I guess I don't have an option. So looking for the RGB light bar now. Also looking forward to your video on adding front intake fans. I might add them too if they can make a significant difference.
Thank You so much for this! I've seen many videos on this cooler upgrade but youre the only one to explain and clear up the confusion around the screws and spacers. I can finally orderr mmy parts and get this done. (i have the 11700 with a pancake cooler, wtf)
I'm about to do this very upgrade on my Dell 8940. I've been active in those Dell forums and even printer a few of those fan brackets for people (PETG). M3 screws were hard for me to source locally. I wound up cutting the heads of some M3x30 screws. I've been running all sorts of benchmarks so I can have a before/after comparison
This video points out how much you still need to learn to gain the basics of living without having to pay someone to do everything for you. If you learn principles, you can work out what is important and how to do it. eg. what is the purpose of heat sink compound and how does it work? This would have removed the anxiety you experienced. Yes in Canada we have a Lowes store and a few others that carry metric fasteners, you will find them if you look. Canada is a metric country if you have noticed but we also can deal with the imperial system easily. Educate yourself beyond computers and you will find an interesting number of things you can learn and do. I'm sure that you are young enough to learn and make use of all these things and thereby enriching your future. Have a happy and full life.
I did the same thing except I ended up using a thermalright peerless assassin mini. Their brackets fit right into the screw holes, I just needed some 16mm M3 screws from the hardware store.
I bought the i7 10700f and 3060ti with 8gb ram and a hard drive to save as much money as possible. It came out to 1350 with tax and shipping. I ended up getting the HYPER TX3 and some m3 washers and screws to mount it. I agree the motherboard is a downside in that PC I could never get my ram to 2933 which the i7 is specced for. Temps when stress tested reach high 70s and stay there. Installed a silent wings and noctua fan using a 3 fan splitter. Overall I like tweaking and messing with stuff so while some people might be angry that I had to do all that I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Great Video Guide JSyntax You can't put too much thermal compound, but it can make a mess if the excess squeezes out. I also went with the same Noctua cooler, and artic cooler intake fans. I had the i510400f so I received the pancake cooler the results were night and day. Some tips for others here, I also removed all the Dell apps, and got an even bigger boost to performance. I will be adding more Fans, however my CPU now hits a max of 52celsius under 3DMark, and the graphics card after subsequent repeat runs starts to trend up to the 87degree celsius mark. i5-10400F GTX 2060 6GB Upgraded ram to 2x16GB DDR4 2666 Crucial Low Latency Ram Added Noctua NH-U9S CPU Cooler Artic Cooler 120mm Intake front top Planning to add more fans, actually came on to see the case fan brackets etc. Thanks again!
Huge help my man! Kudos to you for life! Definitely a life saver! Liked and subscribed! Keep it up! Wish I could produce videos like this! I have the content but the delivery isn't there just yet. What did you do about the rattling/buzzing power supply unit? HUGE THANK YOU!
Has anyone run into an issue where the motherboard doesn’t pick up the fan. Cause mine isn’t picking up the fan therefore causing my computer to restart cause the cpu is “getting too hot” but the fan itself is spinning. I did do the noctua cpu cooler upgrade but ever since it can’t even use my computer now
I just made the upgrade to the Noctua CPU cooler. Just like you, it took me a few tries to get that cooler to sit on the base correctly. It did make a huge difference thermally and audibly as well. I am sitting at about 35-40 degrees idle and 60-70 during gaming. I am surprised though that your PSU was making that much of a squealing sounds.
My psu occasionally sounds like a wood burning stove crackling away. I worried it was arcing but it's how that psu is. Its actually a descendant of a server psu hence its weird form factor for hot swapping into power edge servers, so I think it will be ok. I can say that the supply rails are very smooth because I use an sdr radio receiver in this pc and itsv the best I've used for being quiet.
@@dr_jaymz Mine did this on my XPS 8940, often when going off standby mode. It was the 500W Lite-On variant PSU. Called tech support, had it changed (they even swapped the whole computer at some point), I finally ended up with a Delta Electronics one that does exactly more or less the same sound than Jsyntax's. You only hear it when the CPU is in idle state, and it's quiet compared to the "wood burning stove" sound of the Lite-On one. Also the only way to make the crackling noise stop was to reboot the computer (by shutting it down or putting it in standby mode momentarily), that was really annoying for me, at least the Delta one is consistent in its operation. Having gone through a couple of them, I guess I can safely assume that all these power supplies make noise to an extent. I'm relieved to know at least that it seems common with these and that there's no danger for our components inside.
@@willnayrole yes when there is very low power demand the inductor switching becomes discontinuous, so it stops switching briefly until required. This is why they are very energy efficient. You cannot hear the switching normally because its much higher frequency than were can hear but you can hear when it starts and stops and that is what we are hearing. Its possible to design it to prevent that noise as well but that just makes it more complicated. I still think that these psus are descended from server psus where reliability and simplicity is favoured. We run hundreds of dell servers each with two psus and any psu problem is very rare.
Damn y'all, I bought a XPS 8950 and started worrying I wouldn't get the more premium heatsink since I had bought a i7 12700 non-K version (it was on clearance, so I had no choice). But I got lucky, and it happened to come with "advanced CPU cooling" and actually came with the nicer heatsink. I was already getting ready to buy one off eBay
Before watching this video I already purchase the d9l so I'm installing it today and going to use this video to sort of help me because they should be relatively the same install process
Dude the fact you reference and had a montage of all the forum posts/videos made me laugh so hard because I went through the struggle trying to consolidate all the necessary info. Thank you for compiling the information. Quick question, I dont have the same exact model as you, i have an i5 10400f and a 1650 super (Dell G5 5000) Should this install should be compatible with mine as well?
Oh man, the Dell forums are a mess. I think theeres 2 really good organized reddit posts but the amount of info was a lot to digest. And yes, as long u have a G5 desktop pc, you can upgrade. Let me know how it goes!
@@JSyntax Thanks for getting back to me bro! I watched your other vid on the fans as well. Think im going to opt for the noctua cooler and one additional noctua fan in the back and bring the stock fan to the front. (I have the crappo pancake cooler) Cant believe this prebuilt didnt have at least one intake. Thanks again and Ill return with my results for those who bought the same exact model as mine!
Hello everyone! The solution to prevent the throttling is using a software called throttle stop.After I set it up, my 11700 can stabilize at around 4.2g, although the CPU temp is around 90 degree…
What is funny the Vetroo V5 cooler I bought for my XPS 8940 fit with no additional hardware, pulling the motherboard, or anything like that. Mine was a non K version so didn't have the upgraded cooler to start with, just the pancake one. I have no more thermal throttling now that is installed, and I think it cost me around $30, as they included thermal paste too. My video was more of a review, not a how to. Good information in your video.
Thanks for the video. My Dell G5 5000 with i5-10400F was shipped with the pancake cooler. After viewing you video and trolling through Reddit and Dell forums... Ultimately I decided to order the Dell "K Series" cooler (P/N VWD01) directly from Dell at CAD54.00. The incremental cost and parts to install the Noctua were just not worth it for marginal gains, if any. Appreciate you sharing your experience.
Washers are for increasing the load bearing surface. Even though the screw head makes contact with the bracket you do not want to focus the weight on such a small surface because it could shear. And If you look at a video by Gamers nexus about thermal paste you will learn it does not matter if you put on too much just don't put on too little.
Thank you so much for this video, it's super helpful. I should've paid more attention though because I installed it with the fan on the wrong side and I was wondering why my PC was still getting so hot o.O
for me, the vwd01 heatsink is TONS better than the stock pancake. im using a precision t1500 that was being thrown out, upgraded from the i5 650 to the i7 870 and without turbo technology its hitting 100°c, and i did change the thermal paste several times. the vwd01 keeps it from throttling at a nice 70-75°c so it depends what cpu you’re using for it
you can change the fan onthe premuin dell cooler. I can see in the video at 6:47 the its held at the bottom with 2 screws and the cap plate is screwed to the fan at the top. that might something to consider for anyone want a simple bolt-and-go solution.
I would have thought (..for you) the upgrade to the Noctua would have been worthwhile just on noise alone. Even running torture tests it's not loud at all in comparison to stock fans. But yeah... if you already have a premium cooler it's not really necessary to upgrade to a Noctua... although getting the 92mm fan installed is still a good idea. The stock intel looking cooler though definitely shouldn't remain in anyone's system and is a must to get rid of (imo)
Agreed! And I did correct myself, the CPU fan was great! It was the psu fan was not for me. Silly how gamers nexus praised the psu for its technical specs but completely ignores the human aspect of noise and small fans... What a robot.
@@JSyntax Well.. mileage may vary right? I don't have the issues you have with the psu making noise on either of the systems I've been working with. It's quite possible they didn't have that issue either. Gamers nexus ticked me off especially on their Alienware recent review. NO way they didn't know they were getting a air cooled unit. They did that on purpose. Sure dell needs to be called out for even having air cooling as a option with their current line of cases but even so.
Brilliant! Clear, concise and comprehensive video - thanks very much! I feel for you in putting in (literally) the blood, sweat and tears into doing this video upgrade. I'm thinking of also getting a XPS 8940 so this really helps - including going through all the great comments. As a fellow Canadian, I so agree that Canada is a parts wasteland - you can only get the most common stuff :( I haven't build a PC from scratch since the PIII days so I'm kind of a noob and I have a dumb question: can you please tell me what app you used to run your temperature, fan speed, etc., benchmarks? Looking forward to more videos with your G5 in the future.
Dang it, I have a noctua cooler and buncha case fans almost ready to go. Just ordered a bunch of parts recently to give it a shot. If I knew it wasn't going to make much of a difference, I'd have franeknsteined this case and put in a 240mm watercooler.
I installed the U9S to replace the Dell pancake cooler in my new XPS8950. I get the occasional error on startup that there is no CPU fan but I think it is just a delay in registration as the fan is spinning happily and no other warnings while the machine is running. Everything is running pretty cool but no big loads on the system yet. The front plate on the XPS is flat and the 90mm intake fan is lined up with the graphics card and power pack. There is room for a Noctua 120mm fan above it but not sure if I need it yet. Your video was the most helpful in making my upgrades. Many thanks.
@@user-rw8kl7xy5n there's something about dell fans such that many non dell fans give the error on boot. It maybe that other fans won't spin up to the rpm of dells. One way to deal with it is use a splitter so the dell fan is still connected while you attach your new fan too. Should avoid the error.
Watching this video and a few others convinced me to return my costco deal 8940 before opening it. I didnt realize how little this PC offers in upgradability and settled on an alternative from ASUS with a case swap coming.
@@JSyntax probably some of the last ones out in the wild for sale…I paid 1299 for the i7/3060ti 8940 and returned. Paid 1750 for a Rog Strix with a 5800x and rtx3070 instead.
Great video! I am going to do this next. I just upgraded my gpu to an aio cooler. It was a giant pain in the a**. I had to fabricate my own bracket out of 1/8 in aluminum. But it brought my gpu temp from around 80 during gaming to about 52-53. Huge improvement. I need to cool the cpu better now. Just ordered this. Thank you for your video! Well done!
I am a chemist for training education. However, I’ve spent the past 40 years building my own computers. Regarding your comment about the purity of isopropyl alcohol, 70% is the most common. Isopropyl alcohol attracts atmospheric moisture, and the stabilization at about 70%, which is the reason for that concentration is so cheap and common. I used to be able to find 99% at a higher price, but since it is used in meth production, that product has disappeared from pharmacy shelves.
Hey JS, This was an outstanding instructional video!! I did sends hours on this topic via the forms stated with more confusion and questions that you clarified. BTW what is your thought on liquid cooling, such as Cosair H80i v2 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler or H60?
Hi, thank you very much for the insightful video. However, I followed your instructions but still got a bootup error message related to the CPU fan. I searched up and it seems that it is inevitable. Do you have any idea how to resolve it?
I just killed way to much time changing cpu cool. All u have to do is take out motherboard use vice grips to twist off old mounts and your bracket will fit right in for any cooler
Does the noctua not come with screws that can be used? I live in US. I assumed they came with the necessary screws to install. NVM I just got to the lucky American part. Great video btw.
Great vids, I just lurched the XPS 8940 special edition with 11 gen i7-11700K, I made sure it was the K version as my sons XPS SE from 2019 the previous XPS Design with a non K version 19 processor and really regret not spending the extra $100 back then. My sons version has the worst fan setup I have seen, the new one I just purchased seems to have a lot more open air space for better air flow, even with the 3070. I should have it it about 2 weeks, so I’m thinking of the quickest way to improve my air flow from day 1, I really don’t want to change the K version processor cooler just yet, so I’m thinking to go with a larger back fan, and possibly mounting a front intake fan ( I did opt for a 2nd 2TB HDD, so I think that may need to be relocated ( correct?) or is there a workaround, if I need to move to another bay then I will. Have you come across any simple to install front mount intake fan setups since this video or the other fan video for XPS/g5 you had made? Also is there anyway to install an additional fan on the outside of the stock processor cooler that can create a push/pull setup using the existing setup? Creating more flow through the cooler? What would you recommend as a start to adding efficient / proper cooling from the start with out replacing the upgraded stock K cooler setup? Can the fan in the stock configuration be replaced while retaining the existing cooler setup? Thank you and appreciate and advise, tips offered in advance. I’ve used many XPS setups throughout the years and been happy but I plan on using this machine a little harder then those other XPS ones over the years ( with my first one being a fully loaded XPS M1710 laptop back in 2006, was a beast at the time). My main computer for my business is actually a 2014 Precision T7600 with dual xeon 6 cores just put a P1000 gpu just to run my 4 monitors without any adapters and that thing gets hammered at work daily, ( but can’t play a simple game on it, my son thinks it’s funny but can take up to 20 minutes every night closing every program and chrome tab that gets opened daily, not because it’s slow, because I literally don’t close anything during the day and running several graphic design programs). That workstation is like my old reliable 1970’s V8 Caddy when it come to reliability Well enough on that, so basically I’m just trying to get as much simple bolt on power to the new much smaller, but more tech infused computer, and like most things MORE AIR ( used properly) MORE POWER
I'm quite ignorant about Canada so you should correct me but I really expected Canada to be all Metric? America uses freedom units, like 3/5UNF, they have an inch which is slightly different to an actual inch and a gallon that is different to an imperial gallon and here in blighty we mix units for no apparent reason. For example its -5C to make it sound cold and 90 degrees (F) when we want it to sound hot. For aircraft separation we use feet for the height and km for the horizonal distance in the official rules.
I opened mine up to look around (it’s a few years old) and isn’t it pretty damn bad that there’s no intake fans in this case? Mine has a tiny ass exhaust fan and 0 intake fans on the case. Just a fan for the GPU and CPU. Can’t wait to build my own pc..
Install starts at 11:05 for those who just want the instructions!
I read that the way cheaper Cooler Master Hyper H412R fits in the Dell G5. Do you know if that is correct?
He won't know that cause he just read some other articles and follow there instructions to do this video.
So if you use 2 fans on the nh-u9s will u see a difference?
Hello sir, you mentioned that your power supply has a weird buzzing noise. What kind of noise is it? I bought a Acer Orion 3000 pc, that the PSU has a weird buzzing noise (sound like some small consistant electric shock) even when the pc is turned off. I'm thinking about returning it and buy the Dell XPS as it's on sale right now, and I hope I don't get the same buzzing noise from the PSU that is causing the issue. BTW can the dell PSU be upgraded?
Just now seeing these cooling fan videos as I've ordered a Dell XPS (knowing that's potentially an issue but the specs to price ratio is tough to beat). I saw another video from Optimum Tech and he replaced it with a liquid cooling set-up. It dropped temp by 7-8 degrees and bumped the CPU speed up in the process.
This is some saint level content
Thank you
@@JSyntax Update, I bought the cooler. As well as a new mobo and case. The average cpu temp now is never over 60 C regardless of load. Its insane to think dell ever thought a pancake cooler would ever suffice.
No joke
Fax this guy poured his souls into this
Thanks for the video! I decided to upgrade form the stock pancake cooler to the Noctua with the grubscrew method and it worked flawlessly. I am running games 15c cooler! I am also far from being an expert on computers but was still able to follow the simple tutorial. If anyone has any questions on my upgrade feel free to ask
That is so awesome to hear!
Just wanted to thank you for this video. I got an XPS 8940 last summer, and only learned about the issues with this computer through troubleshooting it like it was my job. I used your video as a guide to replace the "pancake" cooler with the Noctua cooler and replace the case fan, and it went well. I had done things like swap out hard drives or upgrade RAM on other computers in the past, so this felt kind of "next level", but your instructions were clear and easy to follow. I probably still have some software issues to smooth out for the game I want to run, but I feel like my hardware is sorted. Thanks so much!
You are very welcome! It makes me happy to hear this :)
Thanks so much for this video! Made upgrading a breeze. By the way, I figured out a work around for us fellow Canadians. If you buy the 3M-0.5 x 25 mm machine screws (instead of the 20 mm size you showed in your video), you can use a pair of wire cutters to cut off the screw heads. From there, use the provided thumb screw hardware to work back in any warped threading. To do that, you simply screw and unscrew the thumb screws several times on the side you cut the head off from. Now you have homemade grub screws (without the Allen key hole). Worked perfectly for me to screw into the mother board, place the spacers and brackets over top, then secure with provided noctua thumb screw.
That's amazing glad it helped
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
I don't ever make comments on UA-cam, but you video made my fix so smooth. Got the screws all ready before attempting to setup and it took me just a whooping 30 mins from start to end!
Than you!
@@markstevens4264 I chose the first method (Non grub) and it wasnt tough at all to get the screws aligned. Don't need to go out of your way to get grub screws in my opinion if it isnt accessible
Fellow Canadian here with similar lack of access to the 3m screws. I ended up making the hole on the two metal plate bigger with my drill and used the thumb screws and plastic washers that came with the CPU cooler. worked like a charm.
Would love to see a video on that!
Completed this tonight and your instructions were perfect… not a single surprise or snag ✌️
I put in a cheap single fan AIO on mine, worked fine though looks like the dell psu couldnt cope with the additional 4 fans I also installed. The AIO did make a diff with performance though. Im putting the whole thing in a non-dell mobo/case/psu and using it as a secondary pc now.
Thank you so much J, you've helped me extend the life and performance of my G5. I'm a grubby American with my grub screws so I appreciated your dedicating a special section to it, it was extraordinarily easy even with little know how.
The best resource for someone with the sad stock cooler.
Awesome! So glad to hear
appreciate the vid managed to get my Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE installed into my Dell G5 with no issues. took a trip down to canadian tire to grab some of those m3 20mm screws happened to get the last pack of 4 so was just perfect. didnt really have any trouble lining up the holes or anything when i put it on i just put them down and held one side while i shifted the other around in place with the screwdriver.
was well worth it too i have an i9 with the poopy pancake heatsink after replacing it i went from being 60-70C at idle with thermal throttling constantly im a nice cool 35C during idle and only 75C during heavy gameplay. no more stuttering!
This is a great video that has saved my life. I saw it before buying my xps i7 11700 and rtx3060. I ordered the u9s as soon as I bought the computer. This install was nerve racking just because it was my first computer work. However your guide made it simple. It wasn’t nearly as hard to find the screws for me In the US. But all in all my temps went from 95c(pancake cooler) to a max of 67c. I’m so happy my cpu isn’t trying to combust anymore. Thanks for this wonderful video!
I'm so happy to hear that you're upgraded!
Hello JSyntax, good video. No problem to wobble a bit the CPU cooler, if not too much Thermal paste is applied. Half of your big pea, so it can't fall too much from the CPU heat spreader.
With your Noctua Cooler, you need to install Intel extreme tuning utility, in order to boost the CPU burst period to 128 seconds, instead of 20 seconds. Since the Main Board is limited for overclocking.
Better buy pre-built, only for the GPU.
Regards
Thank you for your input that is 100% correct
@@JSyntax Thx. Very good your idea to print a mount for a 120mm intake fan, even if it cancelled the possibility to install a 3.5 inch HDD. Lucky the front Dell aeration grid is truly perforated.
Still the Lenovo Legion pre-built has a better airflow and less proprietary components.
I've upgraded the stock cooler on a Dell XPS and HP Envy with the Noctua NH-U9S using the stock back plate. Just used the correct spacers for the socket and M3 x 20mm screws. Everything went together with no problem or modification.
Amazing video, really great instructions and extremely informative. Thank you for creating this. Context: I just bought the 8950 from Costco with the i7-12700 RTX3080 & 64gb ram. I plan on doing this upgrade will share notes. As I live in the US and used to have time to build custom cases, I may just go with the m3-20mm screws because I just have larger fingers and it’s always tough getting my fingers in that small space. Will share my experience.
Wow 64 gb of ram! Nice setup.
I've just completed the install right this afternoon! To make it easier for you so that you can apply the whole thing to the mother board with only ONE TRIAL, try to connect 2 metal bracket to the heatsink first (through two screws at both left and right sides of the heatsink) , and then apply the whole thing to the mother board with 4 screws. Final, attach the fan to the heatsink!
Ah yes! I'm an idiot. Thats probably an easier way to mount the brackets.
Your method doesn't work. If you attach both metal brackets to the heatsink first, 1 of the metal bracket (on the non-fan side) cannot be accessible by screwdriver hence cannot be screwed onto the motherboard. Instead, attach only 1 of the metal bracket onto the heatsink on the fan side, and screw the other metal bracket onto the motherboard BEFORE you attempt to put the heatsink onto the CPU.
The pea sized amount is good; too much thermal paste is better than less if its non conductive
Also yes you can shuffle the heatsink with no issues. If anything its good for the mount to make sure the whole ihs is covered
Also you could just have the m3 screws all positioned onto the bracket before you mount it, and hand tighen before you use a screwdriver.
Also you'll need to check if youve mounted the cooler with enough pressure. I think theres a reason why people have recomended the 16mm screws with different standoffs.
Your first mount looks like there was not enough pressure on the CPU.
Err, not sure what you mean, the CPU cooler was really fixed on the socket. Not sure what I could do better to make it secure.
Another great tutorial. I’ve saved 20 degrees Celsius now. Thanks so much
Wow!
I just want to say thank you for making this video! I was pretty uninformed about the problems with this computers design when I purchased it a few months ago and was getting very concerned about the running temperature. Your videos gave me the confidence to take on this solution and it's making a huge difference, my cpu temps have dropped 30ish degrees since replacing that pancake cooler. Thank you so much and I wish you well.
You're very welcome!
Did you have to calibrate the new cooler? I have mine installed but for some reason I think its not even close to working at its best as my temps are still high. Any advice?
@@redhotweezer I didn't, I just bolted it on like in the video.
Guys, I recently replaced a Dell 95w cooler on a 2015 Dell XPS 8900 (6700k) with a thermalright peerless assassin 120, using thermalrights' mount (this was in an aftermarket case)- if you buy a separate CPU retention bracket for your socket (in my case, socket is LGA1151, available on eBay), and remove Dell's CPU retention bracket/ mounting bracket that is all one piece, and install your new, smaller CPU retention bracket, you then have room to use aftermarket mounts for coolers. Just another option to consider, especially if getting some of these small screws in the video is difficult for you
This is going to be so helpful, much appreciated. Doing this upgrade in a couple weeks. Interested in your next install video as well.
Yes me too!
The Arctic Freezer i13X is also a direct replacement, no need to buy washers and screws. You'll still get the pre-boot system performance check if you connect the freezer i13x to the cpu fan header. This is easily solved if you use the stock cpu fan as an exhaust /intake fan. You then use a pwm fan splitter from the cpu fan header. The connector with 4 pins goes to the exhaust/intake fan and the connector with 3 pins goes to the freezer i13X.
Good job! I followed everything in this video, and had no issues at all. The i7-10700F CPU in my G5 is running around 30C cooler than before.
So happy to hear
I did the upgrade with the cooler master fan and while it is definitely cooler that the stock pancake I am not noticing 30 degree reductions like some people mention
If you want M3 grub screws and you already got m3 machine screws - all you need to do is cut the head off with a Dremel and most people will know someone that has one of those (probably the same person who has the screws). Thermal compound despite its name doesn't actually conduct heat well at all, its really acting as a gasket otherwise the cooler would only transfer heat on the high bits. As a result it should be as thin as possible barely a smidge, the tube you have there should never run out no matter how many PC's you do! I've still got a tube from 1990 when I was making amplifiers it lasts for ever and if you get it on your clothes or anything else it last forever there too. The reason you don't see any difference is that if you were below 90C with the k cooler then it will just run the same as if it was below 80c - however, if the fans are better quality and quieter then its worth it. The really crappy pancake cooler is actually sufficient for most needs and the cpu will throttle for when its not so the idea was that Dell worked as hard as possible to get the minimum cost. I think that approach suits us very well. I got the F with a crap cooler and prefer the option to fit what I wanted. The Dell G5 right now is basically an RTX graphics card with a free PC and I think they did a good job hitting that price point and keeping the stock flowing when everyone else ground to a halt.
Agreed, the pancake cooler, while loud, will work, even if throttling loses some performance on the CPU. The only thing I wish Dell hadn't compromised at all are the exclusion of VRM heatsinks on the F model CPU variant. With combined CPU and GPU load, those VRM's get hot and while they're rated all the way up to 120c, their longevity will suffer greatly without the heatsink, and there are a few cases on the forums where they actually blew. You can get the heatsink independently either 3rd party of from dell if you didn't get it, so I fully recommend it if the g5 is going to be your gaming go-to.
@@tristantheafflicted do you have a link for these? I used thermal camera and they only get to 60C but I feel they should be heatsinked if I can easily add it.
Thanks man very helpful I bought the stock pancake cooler as I didn’t really know what I was buying should of watched your last vid first haha. Think I will leave the it up to a computer shop but I will 100% upgrade it as soon as it arrives
You can upgrade to the noctua cooler!
I find it funny how so many videos talk about trying to find screws to fit the existing stand offs under the mother board. I broke them all off and then installed my cooler as it was intended. No issues at all.
Thank you for having multiple videos on this computer, it helped me a lot, and answered many of my questions
Glad it helped!
The ID Cooling SE 207 XT slim works perfectly without fan errors in Dell systems. You just need m3 16mm screws
Really appeciate your video. I bought 3 of the Dell G5 5000's for myself and 2 grandsons. Your method worked like charm. You're the best!
Awesome! Lucky kids.
Because of your first videos I purchased a g5 made of couple of upgrades and I'm very happy with my purchase. Thanks man good job on your vids
Just an FYI, m3 machine thread screws are very popular in the RC community so if you're in Canada and need m3 screws/bolts/nuts/washers of all different lengths/depths/thicknesses, try an RC hobby store. Since I build both PCs and RCs, I have a huge collection of m3s ranging from 5mm to 100mm in length, all from hobby stores both local and online.
Super jelly!
Conclusion honesty is great. 👍🏻
I had a G5000 with that original intel fan, what I did to upgrade to a U9S was simply cut off that 4 radiator supporter which fixed on case, then you will realize you are able to install any kind of cooler in the market, put things right once and for all.
I would love to see pictures of that install method!
@@JSyntax I will forward you some pic through email, as I have no idea how to upload them here. First of all, this method will need to take off the motherboard from the case, I believe there is an instruction from the owner manual (I have spent an hour on this step). Once the motherboard has been taken off, you would see 4 short support (I used a grinder to cut it off). Then install U9S as what DIY normally do on the motherboard and put everything back in case (it's better to test it before putting them back).
Omg you are a god i was literally looking through these EXACT SAME POSTS figuring it out and i find this THANK YOU 🙏
I was in the same place!
Save your microfiber towels and use coffee filters, they don't leave fibers behind and work great. No issue with moving the heatsink around on top of the IHS of the CPU just spreads the thermal interface material around more. The application of thermal paste seemed fine, rice size is good, you can have too little paste, but not really too much with in reason.
I appreciate your feedback
Thanks for explaining this, I was worried about this too
Excellent content. I have the G5500 with the less powerful fan and was looking for a way to reduce CPU heat. I know virtually nothing about the inner workings of the computer other than adding RAM and hard drive space, but I may try the fan upgrade by following your video. 🇨🇦
Thank you!
Thanks a lot! I was looking everywhere for information on this topic. I think after all of this I'm going to upgrade and migrate all of my parts to a new case.
I don't think that's possible but let me know if I'm wrong
@@JSyntax by migrate I kinda mean just keep the CPU, GPU, HDD, RAM, and SSD and then get rid of all the rest
Bro, that was great for the beginner who pucharched the DELL XPS8940. really thx a lot.
You're gonna do that fan upgrades?
Great walkthrough on fitting the noctua heatsink to that Dell G5. Linked to friend of mine to it and she fitted the cooler to her Dell G5 Pc i7-10700F. She's not that techy but had no problems thanks to your UA-cam, Thanks!
That's so awesome!
This.is the video I needed! The m3 screw thread length! Amazing, new subscriber here
Thank you so much for your kind comments
I've been building computers since 2001. Don't bother with "dime size/pea size/dot pattern" for your thermal paste. First and foremost, let's regard it's purpose: Thermal paste does NOT help conduct heat between the CPU heatspreader and the cooler base. Yes, I said that right. You want as much metal-to-metal contact between those surfaces as you can get, but the job of the thermal paste is to create a heat bridge between all of the GAPS between the heatspreader and the heatsink. Air is a great insulator, so you don't want any air gaps between the surfaces. That paste of dielectric grease and finely ground silver particles is there to fill every groove, pit, and air gap between the microscopic ridges of the two surfaces and bridge heat across them, but not to be the primary transfer medium. There's not a thermal paste out there that makes heat transfer between metals BETTER. Adding a blob and hoping that the pressure of the heatsink is enough to squeeze out most of it is less than optimal. You want heat going from metal-to-metal with the least amount of interference from the paste as an intermediary.
That said, the "old-school" way is to place a small dab on whichever surface is larger, flatter, and easier to work with (usually the CPU) and work it gently with a flat razor blade. You're using a razor because it is incredibly flat and clean, not because you want to cut anything, so you drag the blade across, not push it. You work the blade in a cross-hatch from at least 4 different directions until you get an even distribution of paste on the surface in the THINNEST LAYER that is practical. You will be absolutely amazed at how much paste you remove in the process! OEMs of coolers add too much paste to guarantee 100% coverage, but they have to have a large safety factor because of human error that they can't control. Too much paste is still better than not enough, but too much paste will REDUCE heat transfer. So you're going to get a thin, even layer on ONE surface, place the cooler on as squarely as possible, and gently twist or slide to align within say 1/8" or ~4mm. It's totally okay to lift the heatsink and look at the pattern. There's more than enough paste in the tube for 2-3 applications, but it's not like you have to throw it away when resetting, just collect any overflow, gently scrape or wipe one surface, re-spread it all evenly onto the other side and try again. DO NOT lift the cooler and then smash it back down without re-spreading the paste or there will be gaps. To some degree you have to "get a feel for" whether you need to start over or not. The paste doesn't have great shear strength, and you don't want to introduce gaps from sliding or rotating it too far, but a wiggle or two are fine.
Lastly, that paste needs time to set UNDER LOAD. It is a paste, and after it heats up it will flow and squish out the sides ever so slightly as it seeks to further fill those tiniest of scratches and gaps. Check your temps again after a couple of days or a good torture test and you will almost always find it cools better after "bedding in".
Wow thank you for such detail.
@@billmahan6373 If it's working for you, no need to change it. You only have to reapply/re-spread paste when removing & replacing a heatsink. It doesn't break down like engine oil - or at least not in a timeframe that matters to practical use.
Hi, nice video, thanks for make it, I suggest one more alternative to install easer the noctua, just cut the heads of the m3 screws, but put the nut first to redo the thread of the cut part, use m3 x 25 mm or longer
For a cheaper Fully compatible screw in option, Silverstone KR02 comes with compatible screws just screw mounting hardware straight into the backplate. 100% compatible. only $35 AUD in Australia and readily available. Temps will be about 80degrees.
Doing the good lords work! Thank you, seriously.....
I am planning to buy a XPS desktop in the future for video editing, recording and multitasking in general and I was afraid that my CPU would overheat after hearing about the horrible cpu cooler but now thanks to your video I know what to do.
Glad I could help!
Great video. I had to spend hours on dell forums and reddit to learn the exact same things mentioned here. This is the best video on this topic, clear and covers everything. I already did my upgrade from pancake cooler to Noctua and can clearly see the difference (I used 25 mm grub screws, as I got them easily here in the UK). On a side note, do you know if Dell sells the internal light bar? I bought a CPU with no clear side panel or internal lighting and so trying to find them.
Haha you lucky ppl in London. Yes, I wanted to cover some auxiliary topics like which noctua cooler is the best. As for the RGB bar, no it came with the pc. Are you going to make your case clear?
Yes, I ordered a clear side panel from Dell. They only have refurbished ones but I guess I don't have an option. So looking for the RGB light bar now. Also looking forward to your video on adding front intake fans. I might add them too if they can make a significant difference.
Thank You so much for this! I've seen many videos on this cooler upgrade but youre the only one to explain and clear up the confusion around the screws and spacers. I can finally orderr mmy parts and get this done. (i have the 11700 with a pancake cooler, wtf)
Your welcome!
Thank you dude, this is a lifesaver for upgrading my g5!
@2:49 - Maybe just change to a Noctua fan may help the noise level on the upgraded Dell CPU cooler.
Dude i can see that your work in making this video is very hard. Well done
Thank you for your kind comments
I'm about to do this very upgrade on my Dell 8940. I've been active in those Dell forums and even printer a few of those fan brackets for people (PETG). M3 screws were hard for me to source locally. I wound up cutting the heads of some M3x30 screws. I've been running all sorts of benchmarks so I can have a before/after comparison
Looking forward to your results!
This video points out how much you still need to learn to gain the basics of living without having to pay someone to do everything for you. If you learn principles, you can work out what is important and how to do it. eg. what is the purpose of heat sink compound and how does it work? This would have removed the anxiety you experienced. Yes in Canada we have a Lowes store and a few others that carry metric fasteners, you will find them if you look. Canada is a metric country if you have noticed but we also can deal with the imperial system easily. Educate yourself beyond computers and you will find an interesting number of things you can learn and do. I'm sure that you are young enough to learn and make use of all these things and thereby enriching your future. Have a happy and full life.
Have an aio, have a fan adoater for my case. But only you gave us the screw sizes THANK YOU SO MUCH
You are more than welcome
Microfibers can easily conduct static electricity. Don't stress with the thermal paste lol. Either way It's fine.
I just installed a Vetroo V5 out of the box. It is fantastic.
Jealous!
Thank you, this is actually really helpful!
Glad to have helped!
Bro. This is a quality video and just what I was looking for.
Thank you!
I did the same thing except I ended up using a thermalright peerless assassin mini. Their brackets fit right into the screw holes, I just needed some 16mm M3 screws from the hardware store.
Thank you so much for the effort you put into this video. It is exactly what I needed to hear.
You could have also used a second fan on the CPU cooler
I bought the i7 10700f and 3060ti with 8gb ram and a hard drive to save as much money as possible. It came out to 1350 with tax and shipping. I ended up getting the HYPER TX3 and some m3 washers and screws to mount it. I agree the motherboard is a downside in that PC I could never get my ram to 2933 which the i7 is specced for. Temps when stress tested reach high 70s and stay there. Installed a silent wings and noctua fan using a 3 fan splitter. Overall I like tweaking and messing with stuff so while some people might be angry that I had to do all that I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Yes it's fun to mod! Gets you ready for a fully custom DIY pc
With a weird hack, it's possible to get all your ram to 2933 (in my case 4 udimms for 32 GB all running nicely at 2933 and dual channel).
@@hipflipped it just depend on the dimms I was lucky that my Corsair kit could run at 2666. All my other ram kits failed to run at above 2133
Great Video Guide JSyntax
You can't put too much thermal compound, but it can make a mess if the excess squeezes out. I also went with the same Noctua cooler, and artic cooler intake fans. I had the i510400f so I received the pancake cooler the results were night and day.
Some tips for others here, I also removed all the Dell apps, and got an even bigger boost to performance.
I will be adding more Fans, however my CPU now hits a max of 52celsius under 3DMark, and the graphics card after subsequent repeat runs starts to trend up to the 87degree celsius mark.
i5-10400F
GTX 2060 6GB
Upgraded ram to 2x16GB DDR4 2666 Crucial Low Latency Ram
Added Noctua NH-U9S CPU Cooler
Artic Cooler 120mm Intake front top
Planning to add more fans, actually came on to see the case fan brackets etc.
Thanks again!
dude thanks for this reply I think im going to go the same route you did
Yes you can. The least amount you can use the better the heat transfer will be. Although as you found out it will just squeeze out.
Huge help my man! Kudos to you for life! Definitely a life saver! Liked and subscribed! Keep it up! Wish I could produce videos like this! I have the content but the delivery isn't there just yet.
What did you do about the rattling/buzzing power supply unit?
HUGE THANK YOU!
Thanks for the sub!
Has anyone run into an issue where the motherboard doesn’t pick up the fan. Cause mine isn’t picking up the fan therefore causing my computer to restart cause the cpu is “getting too hot” but the fan itself is spinning. I did do the noctua cpu cooler upgrade but ever since it can’t even use my computer now
I just made the upgrade to the Noctua CPU cooler. Just like you, it took me a few tries to get that cooler to sit on the base correctly. It did make a huge difference thermally and audibly as well. I am sitting at about 35-40 degrees idle and 60-70 during gaming. I am surprised though that your PSU was making that much of a squealing sounds.
Awesome, I hope you like it
My psu occasionally sounds like a wood burning stove crackling away. I worried it was arcing but it's how that psu is. Its actually a descendant of a server psu hence its weird form factor for hot swapping into power edge servers, so I think it will be ok. I can say that the supply rails are very smooth because I use an sdr radio receiver in this pc and itsv the best I've used for being quiet.
@@dr_jaymz Mine did this on my XPS 8940, often when going off standby mode. It was the 500W Lite-On variant PSU. Called tech support, had it changed (they even swapped the whole computer at some point), I finally ended up with a Delta Electronics one that does exactly more or less the same sound than Jsyntax's. You only hear it when the CPU is in idle state, and it's quiet compared to the "wood burning stove" sound of the Lite-On one. Also the only way to make the crackling noise stop was to reboot the computer (by shutting it down or putting it in standby mode momentarily), that was really annoying for me, at least the Delta one is consistent in its operation.
Having gone through a couple of them, I guess I can safely assume that all these power supplies make noise to an extent. I'm relieved to know at least that it seems common with these and that there's no danger for our components inside.
@@willnayrole yes when there is very low power demand the inductor switching becomes discontinuous, so it stops switching briefly until required. This is why they are very energy efficient. You cannot hear the switching normally because its much higher frequency than were can hear but you can hear when it starts and stops and that is what we are hearing. Its possible to design it to prevent that noise as well but that just makes it more complicated. I still think that these psus are descended from server psus where reliability and simplicity is favoured. We run hundreds of dell servers each with two psus and any psu problem is very rare.
I stuck with the Dell K series cooler, its actually not that bad. Just added better case fans.
Thank you. Well put together video and extremely helpful.
Thank you!
Damn y'all, I bought a XPS 8950 and started worrying I wouldn't get the more premium heatsink since I had bought a i7 12700 non-K version (it was on clearance, so I had no choice). But I got lucky, and it happened to come with "advanced CPU cooling" and actually came with the nicer heatsink. I was already getting ready to buy one off eBay
Before watching this video I already purchase the d9l so I'm installing it today and going to use this video to sort of help me because they should be relatively the same install process
Dude the fact you reference and had a montage of all the forum posts/videos made me laugh so hard because I went through the struggle trying to consolidate all the necessary info. Thank you for compiling the information. Quick question, I dont have the same exact model as you, i have an i5 10400f and a 1650 super (Dell G5 5000) Should this install should be compatible with mine as well?
Oh man, the Dell forums are a mess. I think theeres 2 really good organized reddit posts but the amount of info was a lot to digest. And yes, as long u have a G5 desktop pc, you can upgrade. Let me know how it goes!
@@JSyntax Thanks for getting back to me bro! I watched your other vid on the fans as well. Think im going to opt for the noctua cooler and one additional noctua fan in the back and bring the stock fan to the front. (I have the crappo pancake cooler) Cant believe this prebuilt didnt have at least one intake. Thanks again and Ill return with my results for those who bought the same exact model as mine!
I'm loving every bit of your review.
Hello everyone! The solution to prevent the throttling is using a software called throttle stop.After I set it up, my 11700 can stabilize at around 4.2g, although the CPU temp is around 90 degree…
What is funny the Vetroo V5 cooler I bought for my XPS 8940 fit with no additional hardware, pulling the motherboard, or anything like that. Mine was a non K version so didn't have the upgraded cooler to start with, just the pancake one. I have no more thermal throttling now that is installed, and I think it cost me around $30, as they included thermal paste too. My video was more of a review, not a how to. Good information in your video.
Thanks for the video. My Dell G5 5000 with i5-10400F was shipped with the pancake cooler. After viewing you video and trolling through Reddit and Dell forums... Ultimately I decided to order the Dell "K Series" cooler (P/N VWD01) directly from Dell at CAD54.00. The incremental cost and parts to install the Noctua were just not worth it for marginal gains, if any. Appreciate you sharing your experience.
you'll like it!
Washers are for increasing the load bearing surface. Even though the screw head makes contact with the bracket you do not want to focus the weight on such a small surface because it could shear.
And If you look at a video by Gamers nexus about thermal paste you will learn it does not matter if you put on too much just don't put on too little.
That's a very good point. My washers didn't fit in my case and the screw were pretty wide already
Thank you so much for this video, it's super helpful. I should've paid more attention though because I installed it with the fan on the wrong side and I was wondering why my PC was still getting so hot o.O
Really appreciated! Thank you for your honesty keep up the good work!
Did you end up going with the upgrade
for me, the vwd01 heatsink is TONS better than the stock pancake. im using a precision t1500 that was being thrown out, upgraded from the i5 650 to the i7 870 and without turbo technology its hitting 100°c, and i did change the thermal paste several times. the vwd01 keeps it from throttling at a nice 70-75°c so it depends what cpu you’re using for it
you can change the fan onthe premuin dell cooler. I can see in the video at 6:47 the its held at the bottom with 2 screws and the cap plate is screwed to the fan at the top. that might something to consider for anyone want a simple bolt-and-go solution.
You can also watercool the cpu with the asetek 645LT. Thats the route I took. Under load i'm looking at temps of low 50C.
I would have thought (..for you) the upgrade to the Noctua would have been worthwhile just on noise alone. Even running torture tests it's not loud at all in comparison to stock fans. But yeah... if you already have a premium cooler it's not really necessary to upgrade to a Noctua... although getting the 92mm fan installed is still a good idea. The stock intel looking cooler though definitely shouldn't remain in anyone's system and is a must to get rid of (imo)
Agreed! And I did correct myself, the CPU fan was great! It was the psu fan was not for me. Silly how gamers nexus praised the psu for its technical specs but completely ignores the human aspect of noise and small fans... What a robot.
@@JSyntax Well.. mileage may vary right? I don't have the issues you have with the psu making noise on either of the systems I've been working with. It's quite possible they didn't have that issue either. Gamers nexus ticked me off especially on their Alienware recent review. NO way they didn't know they were getting a air cooled unit. They did that on purpose. Sure dell needs to be called out for even having air cooling as a option with their current line of cases but even so.
Brilliant! Clear, concise and comprehensive video - thanks very much! I feel for you in putting in (literally) the blood, sweat and tears into doing this video upgrade. I'm thinking of also getting a XPS 8940 so this really helps - including going through all the great comments. As a fellow Canadian, I so agree that Canada is a parts wasteland - you can only get the most common stuff :(
I haven't build a PC from scratch since the PIII days so I'm kind of a noob and I have a dumb question: can you please tell me what app you used to run your temperature, fan speed, etc., benchmarks?
Looking forward to more videos with your G5 in the future.
Dang it, I have a noctua cooler and buncha case fans almost ready to go. Just ordered a bunch of parts recently to give it a shot. If I knew it wasn't going to make much of a difference, I'd have franeknsteined this case and put in a 240mm watercooler.
Im in canada so i appreciate the shoutout
Right on!
I installed the U9S to replace the Dell pancake cooler in my new XPS8950. I get the occasional error on startup that there is no CPU fan but I think it is just a delay in registration as the fan is spinning happily and no other warnings while the machine is running. Everything is running pretty cool but no big loads on the system yet. The front plate on the XPS is flat and the 90mm intake fan is lined up with the graphics card and power pack. There is room for a Noctua 120mm fan above it but not sure if I need it yet. Your video was the most helpful in making my upgrades. Many thanks.
So glad you were able to get such a great cooler in your PC
Remember to duplicate and distribute the sensor wire on old Dells to all fan connections to avoid detection errors on boot.
Hi I am having this issue on boot with this cooler. Can I ask what you mean?
@@user-rw8kl7xy5n there's something about dell fans such that many non dell fans give the error on boot. It maybe that other fans won't spin up to the rpm of dells. One way to deal with it is use a splitter so the dell fan is still connected while you attach your new fan too. Should avoid the error.
Watching this video and a few others convinced me to return my costco deal 8940 before opening it. I didnt realize how little this PC offers in upgradability and settled on an alternative from ASUS with a case swap coming.
They still selling this pc? I thought it was discontinued
@@JSyntax probably some of the last ones out in the wild for sale…I paid 1299 for the i7/3060ti 8940 and returned. Paid 1750 for a Rog Strix with a 5800x and rtx3070 instead.
@@JSyntax awesome video btw. Thank you! …both for such a great tutorial and I think more than anything you showed me to avoid Dell lol
Haha u made a good decision
Thanks for this video!
Great video! I am going to do this next. I just upgraded my gpu to an aio cooler. It was a giant pain in the a**. I had to fabricate my own bracket out of 1/8 in aluminum. But it brought my gpu temp from around 80 during gaming to about 52-53. Huge improvement. I need to cool the cpu better now. Just ordered this. Thank you for your video! Well done!
Thank you rich!
@@JSyntax You are very welcome! Just had my cooler come in today and installed it. My cpu temps dropped by like 25 degrees. Great recommendation!!
thank 'you so much for this video
I am a chemist for training education. However, I’ve spent the past 40 years building my own computers. Regarding your comment about the purity of isopropyl alcohol, 70% is the most common. Isopropyl alcohol attracts atmospheric moisture, and the stabilization at about 70%, which is the reason for that concentration is so cheap and common. I used to be able to find 99% at a higher price, but since it is used in meth production, that product has disappeared from pharmacy shelves.
very interesting insights from your field of expertise! :O
Hey JS,
This was an outstanding instructional video!! I did sends hours on this topic via the forms stated with more confusion and questions that you clarified. BTW what is your thought on liquid cooling, such as Cosair H80i v2 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler or H60?
If it's going to fit it'll be better than stock!
Hi, thank you very much for the insightful video. However, I followed your instructions but still got a bootup error message related to the CPU fan. I searched up and it seems that it is inevitable. Do you have any idea how to resolve it?
I just killed way to much time changing cpu cool.
All u have to do is take out motherboard use vice grips to twist off old mounts and your bracket will fit right in for any cooler
Thank you great information.
Does the noctua not come with screws that can be used? I live in US. I assumed they came with the necessary screws to install. NVM I just got to the lucky American part. Great video btw.
Ull need special hardware!
Why not just use the stock premium cooler and upgrade the center fan?
Great vids, I just lurched the XPS 8940 special edition with 11 gen i7-11700K, I made sure it was the K version as my sons XPS SE from 2019 the previous XPS Design with a non K version 19 processor and really regret not spending the extra $100 back then. My sons version has the worst fan setup I have seen, the new one I just purchased seems to have a lot more open air space for better air flow, even with the 3070. I should have it it about 2 weeks, so I’m thinking of the quickest way to improve my air flow from day 1, I really don’t want to change the K version processor cooler just yet, so I’m thinking to go with a larger back fan, and possibly mounting a front intake fan ( I did opt for a 2nd 2TB HDD, so I think that may need to be relocated ( correct?) or is there a workaround, if I need to move to another bay then I will. Have you come across any simple to install front mount intake fan setups since this video or the other fan video for XPS/g5 you had made? Also is there anyway to install an additional fan on the outside of the stock processor cooler that can create a push/pull setup using the existing setup? Creating more flow through the cooler? What would you recommend as a start to adding efficient / proper cooling from the start with out replacing the upgraded stock K cooler setup? Can the fan in the stock configuration be replaced while retaining the existing cooler setup? Thank you and appreciate and advise, tips offered in advance. I’ve used many XPS setups throughout the years and been happy but I plan on using this machine a little harder then those other XPS ones over the years ( with my first one being a fully loaded XPS M1710 laptop back in 2006, was a beast at the time). My main computer for my business is actually a 2014 Precision T7600 with dual xeon 6 cores just put a P1000 gpu just to run my 4 monitors without any adapters and that thing gets hammered at work daily, ( but can’t play a simple game on it, my son thinks it’s funny but can take up to 20 minutes every night closing every program and chrome tab that gets opened daily, not because it’s slow, because I literally don’t close anything during the day and running several graphic design programs). That workstation is like my old reliable 1970’s V8 Caddy when it come to reliability
Well enough on that, so basically I’m just trying to get as much simple bolt on power to the new much smaller, but more tech infused computer, and like most things MORE AIR ( used properly) MORE POWER
I'm quite ignorant about Canada so you should correct me but I really expected Canada to be all Metric? America uses freedom units, like 3/5UNF, they have an inch which is slightly different to an actual inch and a gallon that is different to an imperial gallon and here in blighty we mix units for no apparent reason. For example its -5C to make it sound cold and 90 degrees (F) when we want it to sound hot. For aircraft separation we use feet for the height and km for the horizonal distance in the official rules.
I opened mine up to look around (it’s a few years old) and isn’t it pretty damn bad that there’s no intake fans in this case? Mine has a tiny ass exhaust fan and 0 intake fans on the case. Just a fan for the GPU and CPU. Can’t wait to build my own pc..
You need to spread the thermal paste