2011 Kawasaki Concours 14: Rear Brake Pad Removal and Install

Time for the rear pads
Key Points:
1) If it's easier for you, these same steps can be done with the caliper off
2) Depending on your pads, you may not need to compress the caliper pistons - just be careful when doing so
3) Once re-installed, pump the brakes until it's firm and check your fluid level
Tools I used:
Torque Wrench (3/8" Drive)
Ratchet (3/8" Drive)
5mm Hex (3/8" Drive)
Torque Specs:
Rear Brake Pad Pin: 17.2 Nm (13 ft lbs)
**Disclaimer .aka Boring Legal Stuff**
The information provided in this video is for general informational purposes only. All information is provided in good faith, however I make no representation or warranty of any kind, express or implied, regarding the accuracy, adequacy, validity, reliability, availability or completeness of this information. It is your responsibility to review and adhere to the official documentation provided by the manufacturer prior to performing any maintenance. I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user.

[@ROrneli]

first thanks for the video there is one part that you left out and I will write it here hoping someone that watches the video can learn from it,
Once the pads come out the cylinders will be too far out to allow access to the new ones(Due to wear the old ones were thinner) DO NOT use a screw driver to lever the cylinders in.you may bend the rotor and the rotor is super weak when applied force sideways which will result in noise when you drive or worse case scenartio a situation where the rotor puishes the rotor in and leaves you without brakes.
So instead remove the caliper by removing the two top screws (should be easy enough) and then use vice grips or an adjustable presure wrench. before you do that REMOVE THE LID FROM THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR UNDER THE SEATas to not break the bottle or create a leak as the liquid will come up as you squeeze the calipers in. once the lid is off apply smooth even pressyre until one of the caliper cylinders goes in and then apply equal pressure to the other cylinder please be aware that if one is pushed all the way in it will push the other one out. so balance it out so they are both equally in.
Once the cylinders are in put the caliper back and put the scres back on then insert the pads as shown on this video making sure you put the clip back in or it will result in horrible rattling and make sure the screw goes all the way to the end and tigthens.(not too much do not hammer in or use a power tool , use an allen wrench and tight with your hand using the long ) make sure you pump the rear brakes a few times before driving off as you will not have brakes until you do. once you feel some back pressure you are good to go ! make sure the brake feels smooth with no vibrations and that you have proper back pressure. it may take a few miles for the brakes to fully set in.

[@cruisecontrol808]

Thanks for sharing!

[@deancol4080]

Gawd you made that look easy... Thanks!

[@Wolfshamil]

Thanks for the video brother!

[@randypullman1155]

👌 wow that was good!

[@RukDaWho]

Did you 'push' in the pistons somehow before you started video?

[@FREE_PUREBLOOD333]

Surprised you didn't actually clean the caliper thoroughly and the pad pins, smear a little copper grease to rear of pads as there's no anti squeal shims on pads plus a smear of copper grease on the pad pins threads.

[@cruisecontrol808]

I learn something new everyday. I'll be sure to do that. Thanks!